What is the best insulation to put on the attic ceiling. How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof: we understand all the details. Features of the device of cold roofs

In accordance with the laws of physics, air rises when heated, so the insulation of the ceiling in the house with cold roof is not a way to get rid of extra money, but a decision dictated by expediency. If you live in a private house, then you have directly encountered the problem of a cold ceiling in the room above which the attic is located. It is usually unheated, and its own thermal insulation is minimal to ensure normal temperature during the cold season. As a result, there is a source of constant heat leakage above the living room.

You can insulate the ceiling in a private house from the inside or outside. Both options have their own advantages and disadvantages, the use of which is dictated by rationality, circumstances, technical nuances and other significant characteristics.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside with roll material

Why insulate ceilings in private homes

Laying insulating material that is optimal for a particular building will provide a thermal barrier between the room and the attic. It will prevent the cooling of heated air, its exit through microcracks in concrete or natural pores in a wooden ceiling, raise the overall temperature in the room, protect ceilings and walls from freezing and save a considerable amount that is regularly spent on heating.

Features of ceiling insulation in a wooden house

When working with wooden buildings, the final weight of the insulating layer should be given priority. Excessively high mass increases the likelihood of collapse or cracking in the ceiling.

Some try to insulate the ceiling in a private house with a cold roof with a decrease in the insulation layer, but work standards require a certain value for each region in accordance with temperature and humidity indicators. With a decrease in thickness, the heat-insulating properties decrease, and the meaning of laying the insulation disappears.

Ceiling insulation in wooden house from within

List of materials used for insulation

For thermal insulation, installers use materials that are divided into four large groups:

bulk- expanded clay, dry sawdust, ecowool;

rolled- mineral wool and its varieties from other materials;

slab- sheets of compacted mineral wool, expanded polystyrene (polystyrene), cork plates;

sprayed / poured- penoizol.

When choosing insulation for the ceiling in a wooden house, you need to know which one has the best insulating properties. To do this, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors that affect the final result:

external or internal installation;

weather conditions and average annual temperature in a particular area, affecting the thickness of the layer;

the need and list of additional work;

time spent and project budget.

The combination of these features will indicate the rationality of using one or another type of thermal insulation.

In the photo, a bulk version of the ceiling insulation from the outside - expanded clay thermal insulation

External insulation

In most cases, the insulation of the ceiling in the house from the outside is more convenient way prevent heat leakage. It allows you to expand the list of used insulating materials, reduce the time spent on work and reduce, in comparison with internal installation, the cost of thermal insulation during insulation in the house with finishing.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

There are several options for insulating the ceiling from the outside:

The cheapest among all bulk insulator options. Due to the penny cost of the material and minimal additional costs, the total cost of the work is the lowest among those described.

There are certain requirements for sawdust.

A minimum moisture content is required, otherwise mold will begin to form over time. For this, the material is aged in a dry room for about a year before use.

The sawdust is mixed with flame retardants to reduce flammability.

Combining with antiseptics, fungicides and slaked lime will prevent the appearance of fungus and protect against rodents.

Insulation of the ceiling in the house with sawdust is done in two ways. In the first, they are mixed with dry cement, followed by the addition of a small amount of water. Cement acts as a connecting material. The second method involves dry filling sawdust without adding a connector, but due to the natural shrinkage of the material and the need for regular addition, it is not popular.

Ceiling insulated with sawdust

Expanded clay as a heater

The second most commonly used bulk material for insulation. Among its advantages:

acceptable price;

availability;

thermal insulation properties are above average.

However, the application has a number of limitations:

the own weight of expanded clay does not allow it to be used on thin wooden ceilings; concrete ceilings are desirable.

the material has low moisture resistance, therefore, a vapor barrier is necessarily laid in the first layer.

to ensure high-quality heat preservation, a layer of more than 20 cm thick will be needed (in cold regions of the country it is increased to 50 cm).

Using expanded clay, experts use a mixture of coarse and fine fractions to ensure a high percentage of empty space filling. From above, a layer of material is poured with a cement mortar 5–10 cm thick, which provides protection from moisture and serves as a floor covering.

Ceiling insulation from the outside with expanded clay

Ecowool

Modern house ceiling insulation made from recycled cellulose, with flame retardants added to provide fire resistance and boric acid, serving as protection against fungus and harmful microorganisms. The main advantages of the material:

high-quality coverage of the entire floor space, due to the low weight of individual parts, cotton wool is easily blown into all cracks;

the composition does not contain compounds harmful to humans;

low material consumption to ensure reliable thermal insulation.

The disadvantages include:

low resistance to moisture, you will have to spend money on laying a vapor barrier;

hand-made installation without special equipment is impossible or will be of low quality;

ecowool is subject to shrinkage, so it will need to be laid with a margin of about 15%;

if crushed, it loses its thermal insulation qualities, therefore it is necessary to cover the ecowool with a layer of boards to enable movement in the attic.

Advice! Experts do not recommend using the material close to chimneys and other sources of high temperature, despite the addition of flame retardants to the composition. If this is not possible, then it will be necessary to make an additional fence of a fire-resistant coating that reflects heat.

Mineral wool as a heater

Warming the ceiling in a wooden house with mineral wool has several advantages:

low cost of the material;

high laying speed;

good thermal insulation properties.

Not without cons:

cotton wool shrinkage is 15-20%, so experts advise taking the appropriate stock.

the material is not moisture resistant and quickly absorbs water, which immediately increases its thermal conductivity. You will need to lay an additional layer of waterproofing.

mineral wool cannot be crushed, the impermeability of the thermal barrier depends to a large extent on the air contained between the fibers, so you will have to spend money on laying the outer covering so that you can move freely in the attic.

For insulation with mineral wool, workers must install wooden logs. They will allow you to delimit the space into sectors and will become the basis of the future flooring.

In the photo, the process of thermal insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool

Penoizol insulation

Depending on the type of installation, penoizol is sprayed or poured. But in order to use this material, you will need to contact a specialized company, since specific equipment is used during the work, plus, protective suits for workers and professional skills are needed.

The advantages include:

high degree of penetration into all cracks and microcracks;

incombustibility;

environmental safety for humans;

not of interest to rodents;

the substance contains a large number of air bubbles, which provide high-quality insulation.

The disadvantages include the high cost and fragility of the material, which does not independently restore its shape in case of mechanical damage.

Video description

Which insulation divides heat better, look at the video:

Advice! When working with penoizol, it is recommended to wait for complete solidification, it has a slight shrinkage, which will have to be replenished in order to prevent the formation of voids.

The process of thermal insulation of the ceiling with foam insulation

Internal insulation

A residential attic, a house for several owners, the presence of utilities in the attic and other situations that make external insulation impossible require thermal insulation from the inside of the room. Bulk materials are not used for obvious reasons.

Video description

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside, see the video:

Sheet, roll or sprayed materials are used. When choosing insulation for the ceiling in a private house, you should pay attention to polystyrene foam boards or compressed mineral wool. They have the best ratio in the price / quality / speed category. Do not forget about penoizol, which will be an excellent option when increasing the budget.

The process of insulating the ceiling from the inside with foam

Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside with polystyrene boards

What to choose - external or internal insulation

The choice between these types of work is based on a combination of factors:

with absence finishing they are equal in terms of thermal insulation;

if the repair of the room is completed, then you will have to remove the ceiling covering, which will increase the cost and time of work;

laying from the inside reduces the shrinkage of the material, but increases the thickness of the ceiling, reducing the total volume of the room;

with internal insulation, the ceiling slab is not protected from low temperatures;

external insulation allows the use of a wider range of heat insulators.

Before you insulate the ceiling in a private house, you need to carefully calculate all the pros and cons, only after that you can make an unambiguous decision, which is better to use in your case.

Conclusion

When choosing a particular material for ceiling insulation, it is always best to seek professional help. Every business has its pitfalls and stumbling upon them, relying on your own strength, is a waste of time and money. It is better to make repairs once, and get a guaranteed high-quality result - this will save you from unnecessary expenses and provide the house with heat for many years to come.

Foreword. In order to keep warm in a private house, it is necessary to carry out a set of works on thermal insulation of all structures. Measures for thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the attic can be performed in several ways, it all depends on the type of ceiling slabs. The ceiling insulation technology involves two options - outside and inside the room, we will consider the thermal insulation of the ceiling from the attic side and show a video on this topic.

About 15% of heat loss occurs precisely through the ceiling, so it is necessary to insulate the ceiling from the attic side for the winter with high quality. But before you get started, you need to choose the right thermal insulation material and get familiar with the technology. This article will focus on events in a private house, while self-insulation of the ceiling of the apartment is performed in a similar way.

Ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house

When choosing between insulating the ceiling from the outside or from the inside of the room, several factors are taken into account. The insulation of the ceiling in the apartment is carried out from the side of the warm room, since the insulation from the outside affects the common house area. In apartment buildings, the installation of insulation increases the sound insulation of the interfloor floors of the apartment.

In a private house, the method of carrying out work is not limited by anything. The most correct option for thermal insulation of the ceiling is to carry out work outside, i.e. from the side of a cold attic in a private house. In this case, the entire floor structure is protected from freezing, which increases its service life. In addition, the insulation of floors from the side of the attic does not reduce the height of the room in the house.

Carrying out work from the attic does not require effort when fixing the insulation on the ceiling from below. In addition, no additional finishing of the premises is required. When choosing a heater for this method, the strength of the material is not important, as is the thermal conductivity. Mineral wool mats with low density are best suited for these purposes for warming horizontal surfaces.

How to insulate the ceiling from the attic

Consider how to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic with your own hands. To begin with, the attic space is cleared of debris, the insulation must be laid on a clean and level ground. Next, calculate the required amount of thermal insulation material. If you chose basalt wool to protect this structure, then a layer of rolled hydro-vapor barrier is laid from the side of the warm room.

The heat insulator is placed between the lags and covered with a wind and moisture protective film, which will prevent the insulation from getting wet. The presence of a rough flooring from the floorboards will allow you to freely walk around the attic and store various rubbish in this room. Next, we will study the advantages and disadvantages of each material in order to make the right choice of insulation to protect attic floors in a private house.

The choice of material for thermal insulation of the ceiling

Ecowool is a loose heat-insulating material, consisting of 80% recycled cellulose and 20% flame retardants and antiseptics (minerals and boric acid). Ecowool retains heat well, the thermal conductivity coefficient is about 0.041 watts per meter per degree Celsius. Thanks to the application technology in the attic, a solid coating is created without "cold bridges" in the ceilings.

mineral wool. To the class of mineral wool, builders include: stone wool, fiber from slag and fiberglass. Fiberglass consists of fibers up to 50 mm long and up to 15 microns thick. Glass wool mats and rolls are resilient and durable. Work with this material should be extremely careful, because. glass threads can dig into the skin, injure mucous membranes, hitting the eyes or lungs. Mineral wool should be protected with vapor barrier films.

Extruded polystyrene foam. The advantages of Technoplex thermal insulation in resistance to moisture and the absence of shrinkage during operation, unlike P-75 mineral wool or glass wool. The material does not lose the characteristics declared by the manufacturer even at 100% humidity, and the absence of formaldehyde in the composition of the insulation guarantees environmental safety for humans. At the same time, the material is quite durable and lightweight.

Foamed polyethylene. The thermal conductivity of Penofol is difficult to compare with traditional, for example, mineral heat insulators, since foil Penofol is a combined material. Insulation with Penofol helps to reduce heat loss in the room due to foamed polyethylene, and the metallized layer can reflect up to 97% of infrared radiation. At the same time, the material is available at a price.

Video. Ceiling insulation from the attic

The ceiling and roof account for, depending on local conditions and the design of the house, 15-40% of its heat loss. Builders for the insulation of ceilings, ceilings and roofs count the extra charge, because. the work is laborious and often it has to be done on weight. However, do-it-yourself ceiling insulation is quite possible without having a building qualification: the technology is not complicated and in most cases does not require special equipment. To help those who decide to warm themselves from above on their own, this article is intended.

General scheme of ceiling insulation modern materials it doesn’t look very complicated, on the left in the figure: a vapor barrier (vapor barrier) does not allow moisture vapor from the inside to the insulation that can ruin it. The waterproofing membrane does not let liquid moisture into it, incl. and condensate in the attic, but releases water vapor to the outside, which nevertheless penetrates to the insulation. In negligible amounts, but, accumulating, it is able to nullify the insulation and spoil the structure of the building.

However, behind the external simplicity is a long evolution of insulation technology and many subtle nuances, without knowledge of which the work may be in vain. So will be considered next:

• Physics and features of insulation technology from above.
• Properties of modern insulating materials and additional coatings for them: roofing films, hydro- and vapor barriers; how to choose the right materials for insulation.
• The possibility of using traditional cheap insulators and heaters: clay, expanded clay, sawdust, etc.
• Schemes and methods of ceiling insulation: from the side of the attic, from the inside of the rooms; also from the inside from the side of the roof - for houses without an attic (eg summer houses and temporary houses) or with an attic.
• How to insulate the ceiling in a house with a cold roof and concrete floors.
• Ways to insulate the ceiling in utility rooms; primarily in the garage and bath.

Cold and warm roofs

A cold roof is called without the so-called. roofing cake: a multi-layer insulating building structure between the counter-lattice under the roofing and the inner lining along the rafters. The device of the roofing pie belongs to another topic - roof insulation, but then we will have to get to know it. Firstly, for non-attic buildings and attics. Secondly, in a private house, the insulation of the ceiling from the side of the attic and the roof are inextricably linked technologically and constructively, as can be seen on the right in the upper figure. Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the attic, along with the roof from the inside, provides the following advantages:

1. 2 layers of insulation 100 mm each, separated by an extensive thermal buffer in the form of an attic, are equivalent to 1 layer of the same material 270-280 mm;
2. From paragraph 1, savings in the cost of insulation up to 40%, and the total, taking into account the greater consumption of the film, by 10-15%, which allows the use of more efficient insulation materials;
3. By insulating the ceiling from the outside and the roof from the inside at the same time, you can get by with inter-beam insulation (see below), which is technologically simpler and more accessible to an unprepared amateur;
4. "Two-stage" insulation of the top of the building will allow in the future, if necessary, to additionally insulate the rooms from the inside separately without the risk of dampness of the room.

About mineral wool

Warming with mineral wool in the Russian Federation breaks all records of popularity: The material is inexpensive and easy to work with. This is explained primarily by large reserves of readily available raw materials and production technology that has been developed for many decades. The disposal of blast-furnace slag in the USSR had to be taken care of even during the industrial leap of the first five-year plans, and for a breakthrough into space, thermal protection of return capsules based on fibers from remelted heat-resistant rocks was developed. So the “modern” methods of producing slag wool and stone (especially basalt) wool are actually not so new.

Professionals especially like mineral wool: it does not need expensive special equipment, but it is on sale. wide range of special fasteners and accessories for it. As a result, the ceiling area up to 20-25 square meters. m, it is possible to insulate in less than 1 work shift, or even in 2-3 hours, this is who knows how. How it looks technologically, you can see in the video below.

Video: an example of ceiling insulation with mineral wool

After reading the following, you may have a question: where is the membrane between the insulation and the ceiling? It is quite possible that in this case it is not needed if the attic with the roof is already insulated; Why same hosts spread superfluous. More Attention should be paid to the following precautions when working with mineral wool:

• Established electrical wiring rolled into a bay and hanging on the wall.
• Judging by the fact that a temporary light bulb is used for working lighting, the room is completely de-energized, and its wiring is disconnected in the nearest junction box or on the inlet panel - this is absolutely correct and absolutely necessary.
• The master puts on a full set of tools personal protection(PPE): special overalls, gloves, goggles, respirator. For the hobbyist it is important point, because rather expensive PPE will have to be used once.

Here it is already clear that mineral wool is not without drawbacks: it is an allergen and carcinogen of group 3, i.e. suitable for residential premises, but it is necessary to work with it using PPE. In addition, which all manufacturers and sellers, without exception, are prudently silent about, under the influence of even negligible amounts of moisture vapor and its own weight, mineral wool gives irreversible shrinkage, as a result of which its thermal conductivity drops by 50% in 3 years: air gaps in the insulation are the same thermal bridges , like metal lintels, only based on microconvection. The gaps between the plates in 5% of the area of ​​the insulated surface increase heat loss by 30-35%

From this follows another unpleasant circumstance: the simplicity of working with mineral wool is apparent. When cutting boards / rolls to size, it is necessary to give an overlap (usually 20-40 mm) so that the boards fit tightly into the openings without sticking out, as on the right in the figure, but also so that cracks do not go from shrinkage in the future. Perhaps this is only on the basis of experience, because. material properties vary significantly from batch to batch.

Finally, the thermal conductivity of a completely new mineral wool significantly depends on its moisture content - in the direction of deterioration. An increase in air humidity in a room insulated with mineral wool from 60% to 85% leads to an increase in heat loss by 10-12%. Therefore, in the further presentation, focusing on mineral wool as the most popular insulation, we will give, where possible, recommendations for replacing it with something better.

Note: look also at the mounting jig (circled in green on the left in the figure). If you use a propylene linen cord instead of fishing line, then the jig can be left constant. Then special fasteners are not needed and, when mounted on a ceiling and surfaces with a negative slope, sagging of the middle and corners of the plates will be excluded.

Physics and technology of insulation

As you know, the critical factor for insulation is the dew point., the temperature at which this absolute, in g / cu. m of air, the content of water vapor in it corresponds to 100% relative humidity and condensation occurs. The dew point in residential premises is unacceptable: excessively humid air is detrimental to health, and for asthmatics and heart patients it can be a fatal circumstance.

For building structures the dew point is no more useful: from periodic saturation with moisture, concrete and brick crumble, wood becomes moldy and rots, because. the resource of its antiseptic impregnation is not unlimited. Since it is impossible to drive the dew point out forever, it remains to let it “walk” on the insulation, ensuring its isolation from moisture vapor and ventilation. The easiest way to implement such a scheme of insulation is when installing a heater from the outside, pos. 1a in fig.

Ways to “fight” with the dew point during insulation

Sometimes it is technically impossible to insulate from the outside. Or additional insulation is required to the existing one. Analog - in the old days especially very coldy they put on 2 fur coats: a naked one with fur inside, and on top of it - with fur outside. In this case, i.e. when insulating from the inside, its scheme is developed so that the condensate in the insulation migrates to the cold surface, and there it flows into the collection and is removed or evaporates to the outside, pos. 1b. In this case, the most insulating material is needed that does not lose its insulating properties when moistened. Such exist, see below.

Features of ceiling insulation

Features of ceiling insulation, firstly, is that it is impossible to organize a condensate drain. Even if the ceiling is sloping, does the water flow along the walls? Drained walls in construction are known, but their complexity and cost are such that it only remains to be mentioned here. Secondly, warm (exuding water vapor) and cold side ceilings in a low-rise building can also change places in the cold season, due to solar heating. Therefore, the ceiling insulation technology is primarily focused on ensuring that there is no condensate in the insulation. And if it has already formed, then you need to give it the opportunity to evaporate outward as quickly as possible, i.e. to the cold side.

cold overlap

On the ceiling of a material that conducts heat well, e.g. concrete, when insulated from the outside with loose material, 3 air gaps a, b and c, pos. 2a. Gap a, between the vapor barrier (vapor barrier) and the insulation layer - safety, in case of heavy condensation, which is possible on a cold surface. Gap a is necessarily ventilated, technically it is difficult to fulfill it, therefore it is desirable to insulate ceilings on concrete ceilings from the inside with massive, i.e. impervious to moisture, insulation. One of the practically important cases of this kind is considered below. Gap b is accumulating, it creates a partial pressure of water vapor, which ensures their diffusion through a semipermeable membrane that allows gases to pass through but retains liquid moisture. Gap c is the main working one, it is also ventilated, but, since it is located closer to the outside, it is easier to ensure its “ventilation”, for example, in the form of a slot around the perimeter.

Note: if there technical possibility and the ability to make the gap also ventilated, this will only benefit the insulation.

Warm overlay

"Warm", i.e. a ceiling that does not conduct heat well, creates a rather high barrier on the way of heat from the inside to the outside, shifting the dew point up into the insulation layer, if you look at pos. 2b. This makes it possible to do without the gap a, which in turn simplifies the insulation wooden ceiling outside. Suddenly, the condensate at the border of the vapor barrier and the base will nevertheless fall out, then in a small amount, it will immediately be absorbed into the tree, and then, without bringing the humidity in the room to a critical level, it will slowly evaporate. Residents will most likely not notice this - wood keeps its mechanical and thermal parameters in a wide range of humidity.

Therefore, it is preferable to insulate the wooden ceiling from the attic, pos. 3: the base is covered with an inexpensive film vapor barrier (see below), a conventional waterproofing film without metallization will also go to the membrane. It is only necessary to arrange an air gap between the insulation and the membrane; its role has been discussed above.

Aweigh

The requirements for the vapor barrier are tightened if water vapor can enter from free space, because in this case, the intensity of their "attack" is unlimited. Then a vapor barrier is needed from a foil film, pos. 4, because no plastic is an absolute barrier to water vapor. Gap a between the vapor barrier and the insulation is also necessary, but now it is easier to provide it structurally. Press the vapor barrier against the insulation, as in pos. 5 is undesirable in all respects, even if the vapor barrier with the substrate, see below: both the work is superfluous and the insulation is worse.

Materials for insulation

Modern successes in building insulation technology are largely due to advances in the field of separating films (membranes). The “good old” roofing material and glassine with their counterparts still find application, but when working for yourself, the last thing you should save on films. And in view of the quality with durability, and in view of the fact that, having spent a little “above” on insulating membranes, you can save more on insulation. Therefore, we will start with membranes.

Barriers and membranes

As is clear from the previous one, separating coatings used in building insulation are divided into vapor barriers, or vapor barriers, which cut off liquids with their vapors, and waterproofing (membranes), which retain only the liquid phase. Vapor barriers, in turn, are divided into film, foil and foil with a capillary substrate (the so-called foil isols), and membranes are divided into single-layer film, microperforated film with double-sided vapor transmission, and the so-called. superdiffusion membranes that allow vapor to pass only in one direction.

Vapor barriers

Film vapor barriers are effective only polypropylene with a thickness of 60 microns. Polyethylene of any thickness, by virtue of its very nanostructure, is vapor permeable, no matter what anyone claims to the contrary. PVC under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity soon becomes brittle and cracks.

The basis of the foil vapor barrier can also be polyethylene, because. gases do not pass a layer of foil on it. On the quality material of this class, the edge of the foil is palpable at the edge of the tape, and it can be picked up by the corner with a sharp knife, i.e. foil is thick enough. Foil insulators with a substrate also have a layer of fibrous material (most often synthetic winterizer) on the back, i.e. the side facing the heater. If condensate falls out, it quickly goes through the capillaries of the substrate to the edges of the coating, so the foil insulation with the substrate must be mounted with lapels, like waterproofing the floor, going into the ventilation gap around the perimeter.

Note: in insulation structures on foil insulations with a substrate, the “insurance” gap “a” (see above) is not required.

membranes

Simple film membranes are common waterproofing, incl. and polyethylene. For insulation of ceilings, they are suitable only in heated rooms, because. in addition to vapors, liquids are also passed in a noticeable amount. When insulating from the attic, it is desirable to use microperforated films. Most often they are produced in 3-layer with reinforcement, on the left in the figure; are also used as coatings for greenhouses and greenhouses. To insulate the ceiling in them, it is good that the reinforcing mesh does not allow the film to sag much and ensures a stable gap height b.

Superdiffusion membranes are commercially available as roofing films, in the center in fig. Their outer side is smooth, metallized, designed for resistance to atmospheric precipitation. Vapors pass through it to the outside; the outer side is either marked, or it is outside and in a roll. The wind strength of the underlayment films is provided by through reinforcement: for high-quality membranes, it is easily felt from the inside, and the film looks as if quilted, on the right in Fig.

Heaters

Materials for the actual insulation are divided into:

• Monolithic, or massive - dense, waterproof. The dew point can wander in them as you like without compromising the quality of insulation.
• Loose, fibrous and porous - are produced in the form of plates (mats) or rolls. The cheapest and most technologically advanced in comparison with the quality of insulation. They are hygroscopic, the properties of the material deteriorate from moisture, often irreversibly, so measures are needed to protect the insulation from moisture and its ventilation.
• Bulk / sprayed - an insulating layer is formed on the spot; high-quality insulation requires special equipment.

Monolithic

From monolithic heaters, foamed polystyrene is suitable for independent work. The attic and ceiling under a cold roof must be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. For insulation, EPPS is produced with grooved boards, which eliminates the formation of air thermal bridges; therefore, foam insulation schemes are very simple and inexpensive due to the low cost of membranes, see for example. in fig. XPS does not shrink, is not hygroscopic. It is durable, able to work as part of load-bearing structures, its insulating qualities are the highest, and outdoor durability, according to the latest data, is up to 100 years or more.

Ordinary granular foam can begin to crumble from strong fluctuations in external conditions in just a winter, but it is cheap, easy to process and mount on any surface with water-based tile adhesive or PVA. Its layer of 30 mm is equivalent to 100 mm mineral wool, so it is advisable to insulate heated rooms with low ceilings from the inside with foam.

Foam and XPS boards do not bend, so they can only be mounted on open surfaces; to insulate the EPS roof, you will have to disassemble the roof. However, a more serious drawback is its flammability and the release of a huge amount of highly toxic gases when ignited. If a fire in a room insulated with polystyrene foam from the inside occurred at night, when everyone is sleeping, then the residents are actually doomed: it is possible to evacuate people under such circumstances only in some cases. Therefore, it is possible to use expanded polystyrene for internal insulation only in limited quantities and when it is impossible in any other way; see one of these options below.

Fibrous/porous

The main advantage of loose insulation is high labor productivity with them without the use of special equipment, which is why professional individuals are so committed to them, for whom time is money. Mineral wool and sheet / slab polyurethane foam (neoprene) are suitable for independent work from "rukhlyakov". Mineral wool was analyzed in detail earlier, and neoprene for warming large areas is too expensive, although it is not afraid of moisture and is comparable in durability to EPPS.

Sprayed and bulk

In terms of the combination of operational qualities, EPPS is almost as good as sprayed foam insulation. When frozen, they look like polystyrene, but are made on a formaldehyde-carbamide basis, so they burn poorly and emit little, not very toxic smoke. The mass forming penoizol can be fed into hard-to-reach cavities, and kraft paper or glassine is enough from the separators, so long as the foaming mass does not stick out through the cracks. However, penoizols themselves are not cheap, and are sprayed using expensive installations. To work with a foam insulation station, you need a serious professional education, therefore, equipment for spraying penoizol is not rented.

You can work with cellulose insulation or ecowool on your own: using a blowing machine for it does not require professional training, so they are widely sold and rented, from those transported by road to small ones like a backpack or suitcase. Ecowool as a heater is relatively little known in the Russian Federation, but compared to mineral wool, it is simply a miracle:

• In terms of thermal conductivity, 0.037-0.042 W / (m * K) is approximately equal to mineral wool; an ecowool thickness of 100 mm is equivalent to a wall of 3 solid red bricks. This makes it possible to get by with inter-beam insulation, see below.
• Up to a humidity of 20%, the heat-insulating properties of ecowool do not fall; on drying after limiting moisture, they are completely restored.
• Sorption moisture absorption for 72 hours in an atmosphere with 100% humidity - 16%.
• Does not shrink, does not puff.
• Chemically neutral, non-corrosive.
• Due to the presence of 12% antiseptic (boric acid) and 7% flame retardant (borax) in the composition, it is slightly flammable and almost does not emit smoke in an extremely hot flame, see left in Fig. below.

• Unattractive to rodents: glass wool is eaten, but ecowool is not touched. After 5 years of application in a house where mice are teeming, their moves in ecowool are not detected.
• May be applied dry manually on open horizontal surfaces, with wetting with a blower into hard-to-reach cavities (in the center and on the right in the figure), with wetting and the addition of 5-15% glue on vertical surfaces and with a negative slope, both by hand and by spraying.
• High labor productivity when spraying moistened (which the pros should also pay attention to): the floor, walls, ceiling and roof (!) of a house with an attic area in terms of 120 sq. m are "blown out" for 1 work shift.

Note, for your reference: ecowool goes on sale under the names Cellulose Insulation, EKOFIBER AB, EKOREMA, EKOVILLA, EXCEL, ISODAN, SELLUVILLA, TERMEX. The world leader in production and application is Finland.

The most serious advantage of ecowool is that it is hypoallergenic and hypocarcinogenic., i.e. does not show any of these properties. The raw material for the production of ecowool is waste paper, but who, where and when, has something inflamed or itched from old newspapers? Is that in the brains of the content of the articles. But for the preparation of ecowool, the paper carrier, together with the content, is ground into a homogeneous gray mass.

Ecowool has three disadvantages:

1. Firstly, the cost per unit of its mass is about 30% higher than that of mineral wool. However, if we take into account the difference in the cost of PPE for mineral wool and the rental of a manual "blower", then the high cost remains approx. fifteen%. Let's also discard the cost of membranes (kraft paper on the warm side is enough for ecowool) - the cost of insulation is almost equal. And if you manually insulate the ceiling from the attic, then ecowool will cost less.
2. Secondly, ecowool must be prepared before use. The initial mass is sold compressed by 2.5-3.5 times, it needs to be fluffed up in some container, add, if necessary, water and glue. This is already bad for the pros; time is money, and blow molding machines that prepare the mass themselves are very expensive. But for an amateur and one-time work, this drawback is not particularly significant.
3. Thirdly, moistened ecowool must be applied in any way at temperatures above 23 degrees and air humidity up to 65-70% so that it can dry. This already seriously hinders its use: until the thunder breaks out, the peasant will not cross himself. In the summer, who thinks about warming? And the chills and bills for heating went - you can only apply it dry, far from everywhere and not always.

Note: if you have some ecowool left from work, keep in mind that this is an excellent material for papier-mâché crafts.

Expanded clay and foam crumb

Traditional expanded clay (on the left in the figure), the advantages and disadvantages of which are known, can also be replaced by a slightly more expensive, but better material - foam glass crumb or simply foam crumb, right there. Foam crumb is lighter than expanded clay, so it can be poured onto a weak base: fragile flooring, into drywall pockets (see below), etc. Its heat-insulating properties are higher, allergenic and carcinogenic were not found. An example of a two-stage ceiling insulation with expanded clay and mineral wool is shown in fig. below. The film membrane (bilaterally permeable, not roofing) provides vapor exchange between the insulation stages, which is necessary to avoid condensation in the mineral wool. If expanded clay is replaced with foam crumb, and mineral wool with ecowool, then polyethylene 120 microns thick will be enough instead of a membrane. In this case, the mounting jig is not needed, and the insulation from the inside can be used to the full height of the ceiling beams.

Sawdust and shavings

Waste wood processing is also a traditional heater. How to insulate the attic with shavings, see the video below. Ceiling insulation with sawdust is more attractive, first, because of their poor flammability. Secondly, at the nearest sawmill, they can offer you sawdust for free in any quantity, and even deliver it at your own expense.

Video: insulation with sawdust ceiling and floor in the attic

However, the availability of sawdust is the other side of the coin, they have a very big drawback: they can “oppose”, ferment. In this case, CH3OH vapors are released. Yes, yes, that same wood (methyl) alcohol, from which unlucky drunkards, into whose throats with a voluptuous gurgling everything that is not water, it would seem, go blind and die. Therefore, sawmillers are happy to get rid of the "sawdust": according to modern sanitary requirements sawdust from under the sawmill should be removed continuously and immediately sent for disposal.

Meanwhile, getting rid of both disadvantages of wood waste is not so difficult and expensive. Approximately in the same way that ecowool is made safe. Proper insulation with woodworking waste is carried out as follows:

• Work is carried out in the summer in the very heat and dryness;
• Advance at 2 separate containers(necessarily separate) prepare strong solutions of boric acid and borax;
• Insulation is poured in layers of 3-5 cm;
• Each layer is abundantly sprayed with one and the other solutions alternately with the help of a stucco brush or a homemade sprinkler;
• The next layer is poured and sprayed after the previous one has completely dried.

As for sawdust, a reliable guarantee against their fermentation, even in a damp attic, is also provided by backfilling on a base of slab and clay, see below. To describe why, here, unfortunately, there is no way; the point is the unique properties of clay and the outer layers of coniferous wood. Insulation of this type is known in houses more than 100 years old. But, once again, unfortunately, it is difficult to find oily clay in nature, it is a valuable mineral raw material, and on sale it is not cheap.

How to insulate the ceiling?

From the attic

The main ways to insulate the ceiling from the outside, i.e. from the attic, shown in fig. It is preferable, of course, to get by with inter-beam insulation. In this case, please note that with a sufficiently massive ceiling roll-up, you need to make the lapels of the vapor barrier on the ceiling beams or encircle them entirely with vapor protection. The vapor barrier can then be film. If the ceiling is hemmed thin, then the jumps in its thermal resistance at the locations of the beams can be harmful. Then the foil vapor barrier is fixed from the inside between the beams and the ceiling sheathing.

With full insulation, i.e. up to the calculated power of the heater, the scheme on the right will be more laborious, but also more efficient, acc. sections of rice: the inter-beam layer is laid in rolls or slabs, and the over-beam layer is made of square mats apart, i.e. with offset seams.

Note: See also the section in Fig. bottom right. This is the same slab insulation with clay, suitable for all types of insulation without the use of synthetic membranes.

From within

No attic

In the private economy, in addition to the additional insulation described above, from the inside, most often it is necessary to insulate non-attic buildings "on the go", in the middle of the cold season. For example, they started to build, built a utility block or a temporary hut for a while, and then it turned out that they would have to spend the winter in it. Or the chickens have stopped laying, the pig has become sad for something and is emaciated before our eyes. There's nothing you can do about it, you'll have to insulate the roof.

A typical design of a warm roof is shown on the left in fig. Insulation lapels down are necessary to avoid freezing of corners. This system has 2 nodes, A and B (ventilated ridge and counter-rail, or counter-bar), which seem to be impossible to complete without dismantling the roof. However, the “bypass” scheme of node A is shown in Fig. top right. Here it is taken into account that, firstly, in light buildings from individual developers, as a rule, there is no ridge beam, and the ridge "beam" is made by knocking down 2 boards in an L-shaped manner. ventilation holes drill 2-3 per span between the rafters. If the entire roof is only roofing material, then there is nothing to do so that the rain does not drip through the ventilation, you need to climb up and install some kind of ridge run with a gap, at least from bent galvanized strips.

How to deal with node B is shown at the bottom right. It uses the fact that in a small samostroy the crossbar (bearing structure) of the roof is not beamed. The role of the longitudinal beams of the crossbar cut into the rafter legs is laid on the boards of the lathing under the roof, and the spans between the rafters are free from top to bottom. In Fig., presumably, everything is clear: the roofing membrane will have to be applied in pieces, and the necessary power of the insulation is obtained, if necessary, with the help of backing bars.

In an apartment building

Self-insulating ceilings in an apartment building is possible only from the inside. Firstly, tenants do not have the right to work on the roof or in the common attic; Secondly, why do we pay contributions for overhaul? The roof is cold - you need to demand its insulation from the operator; does not want - all legal rights are on the side of the tenants.

Nevertheless, while there is fuss and trials, you can do something with your own hands to insulate the ceiling in the apartment. Typical scheme insulation of the ceiling from the inside on concrete is shown on the left in fig. Its main drawback is not at all expensive, subject to corrosion and far from always as effective as manufacturers say, special metal profiles for insulation with thermal seals-thermal washers. Not the same as thermal washers for mounting polycarbonate! Both can be replaced with a wooden crate. And not special materials for the thermal gap along the perimeter and the complexity of working with them.

The main thing is that 0.4-0.5 m is subtracted from the height of the room. This does not add habitability in any way and in modern apartments, and what about the most in need of insulation Khrushchev with ceilings of 2.5 m?

But here, too, there is an acceptable way out. We take into account, first, that stone houses heat escapes through the ceiling mainly in the corners. Whoever has not seen how the ceilings in single-family apartments get moldy and moldy, take my word for it. Secondly, block and monolithic houses are very resistant to fires. It is possible to achieve an extensive fire in them only by a well-thought-out malicious influence. Therefore, it is possible to use granulated foam in a small amount.

Warming scheme concrete ceiling, worked out back in Brezhnevka, when drywall appeared on sale, is given on the right in fig. From the height of the ceiling in this way, only approx. 5 cm. It is quite difficult to fill the pockets of the corners along it, therefore this technology did not really take root even then: the corners are sheathed first on the short sides of the room and filled with insulation from the sides. Then the corners of the long sides are sheathed and the insulation is poured into the gaps between the laths of the crate. Styrofoam and horizontal filing are mounted last.

And now let's remember once again about ecowool. Will it be difficult to blow it into your pockets? At least through temporary technological hatches? The question is rhetorical.

Special cases

Attic

Attic insulation is actually the same special topic as roof insulation. Here it is appropriate to mention it again in connection with ecowool. See what is on the left in the figure, filled with red. In private houses, it is either impossible to climb into this attic without dismantling the roof, or it is impossible to work there. And you can blow out with ecowool instead of the recommended roll insulation without much difficulty.

Garage and bath

Garage roofs are often mounted on steel I-beams or channels. Reliable, the price doesn’t really bite, but what to do with such thermal bridges if you need to insulate? The diagram of the garage ceiling insulation on steel beams is given on the left in fig. Its peculiarity is that the insulation boards are laid in at least 2 layers apart horizontally and vertically. In this way, when insulating with mineral wool, it is possible to reduce heat loss to acceptable levels. If you use ecowool, then the cavities between the beams and between the sewing and the beams are simply blown out with it. Folgoizol is then not needed, enough kraft paper from the inside along the ceiling filing.

With a bath, things are simpler: the features of its design, without which a bath is not a bath, and the thermal / humidity mode of operation make it possible to develop a universal scheme for warming the ceiling of a bath, which is shown in Fig. on right. Feature: if the insulation is mineral wool, then it is certainly basalt, the other will not pull thermal loads and periodic dampening. If you insulate the bath with ecowool, then the peculiarity is that you need to cook the mass with the addition of glue.

Quite often, a cold roof is made on country, garden and even residential buildings. This is due to the simplicity of its installation, as well as the fact that it is much cheaper than insulated. As warm air tends to go up, then with poor thermal insulation through the ceiling, from 25 to 40% of heat can be lost. In order not to heat the street, if there is a cold roof in the house, it is necessary to properly and efficiently insulate the ceiling. If everything is done correctly, then even in this case, the heat from the house will not go outside, so it will always be warm and comfortable in it.

Features of cold roofs

To protect the house from the negative effects of precipitation, there are several solutions, one of the most common of which is a cold roof. Despite its name, there are ways that allow you to qualitatively insulate the ceiling and minimize possible heat loss from the house.

If the house has cold attic, then the temperature inside and outside it should differ by no more than 4 degrees. When creating such a roof, it is necessary that the air from the ventilation ducts enters the atmosphere immediately, and not into the under-roof space. Such a solution will allow maintaining temperature and humidity indicators in the attic that are close to those of the street. If everything is done correctly, then from the inside on roofing cake condensation and frost will not form.

If air from the ventilation ducts enters the attic, this will lead to a violation of the temperature and humidity conditions, which will lead to a quick failure of the roofing materials and the truss system.

The main advantages of a cold roof are the following factors.

1. Reliable waterproofing. When creating a warm attic, due to the presence of superstructures, the integrity of the waterproofing coating is violated, which leads to a deterioration in its characteristics. If you are making a cold roof, then it should have a minimum number of additional elements.
2. Ease of maintenance. Repair and maintenance work is carried out simply and quickly, as there is a lot of free space and access to all parts of the roof is open.
3. Smaller heat transfer surface. Heat loss occurs only through the surface of the ceiling, while when creating a warm roof, the area of ​​\u200b\u200brooms in contact with the street is much larger, so the likelihood of heat loss also increases.
4. Possibility of exploitation. Although such a roof is called a cold one, it can be adapted to store various things. In rural houses, they often make an entrance to the roof from the street and use it to accommodate various types of feed.

Cold roof ventilation provides for air to enter through holes in the eaves and to be removed through deflectors in the ridge

The greater the distance between inlets and outlets ventilation system the more efficient it will work. Most often, the air is evenly distributed under the roof overhang around the entire perimeter of the house and along the length of the ridge. This solution allows for uniform air exchange over the entire area of ​​the cold attic. The essence of this method is that the inlet openings are in the zone of maximum, and the exhaust - in the zone of minimum pressure, due to which intensive ventilation of the under-roof space occurs.

A cold roof can be arranged on a building of any number of storeys. In this case, the ceiling is thermally insulated with a layer, the thickness of which depends on the type of insulation chosen and the area in which the house is located. Usually it is necessary to lay from 20 to 50 cm of insulation.

A cold roof has a smaller heat-releasing surface than a warm one, so if the ceiling is properly insulated, it will be more efficient.

In addition, when insulating the ceiling surface, special attention should be paid to ventilation shafts and sewer risers that pass through the cold roof attic and release air to the outside.

Methods and options for ceiling insulation

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling:

• outside, when a rolling ceiling is being installed;
• from the inside, for which the insulation is knocked to the ceiling from the inside of the room.

The choice of thermal insulation materials used depends on the method of insulation, but both of them allow you to get the desired result and keep the heat in the house.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the room

If you work from the inside of the room, it is best to use mineral wool, as it has high thermal insulation characteristics and has good vapor permeability. Usually, mineral wool is placed between the ceiling and a suspended structure, which is sewn up with plasterboard or other finishing material.

Although the ceiling insulation with mineral wool is easy to do with your own hands, you must remember that it cannot be pressed. This insulation has special layers of air that disappear after it is compressed, while the thermal insulation characteristics of the material are significantly reduced.

When insulating the ceiling from the inside, mineral wool is used, which is installed in the space between the floor beams

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside

Outside the premises, foam or expanded polystyrene is usually used. In this case, it is not necessary to make an internal frame for laying insulation and drywall, so part of the height of the room is not taken away.

Since the insulation is carried out outside, garbage is first removed from the attic, after which the entire surface is covered with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene, the thickness of which must be at least 50 mm. Often the material is laid in several layers, and mounting foam is used to fill the seams between the sheets.

If you will not use the attic, then after laying the foam, you can leave everything like that. In the event that it is necessary to store any things, it is necessary to lay a coating of boards or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood on top.

In addition to foam, for insulation from the attic side, you can use bulk materials - expanded clay, sawdust, or even dry leaves. Lime must be added to sawdust so that rodents do not damage the heat-insulating layer. Leaves are used very rarely, as they are very quickly damaged by insects.

Hydrated lime must be added to sawdust to protect the heat-insulating layer from rodents and insects.

• the thickness of the thermal insulation layer will depend on its type and the region in which the building is located;
• not only the thickness of the insulation is important, but also the correctness of its installation, as well as the presence of layers of vapor and waterproofing;
• when several layers of different heat-insulating materials are laid, then from the bottom layer to the top, the vapor barrier properties should increase. This means that foam plastic cannot be laid on top of mineral wool, but vice versa - it is possible;
• it is impossible to compress mineral wool, therefore, there should be no bulk materials on its surface;
• in order to provide good sound insulation in addition to thermal insulation, it is necessary to use mineral wool with a density of more than 40 kg / m 3;
• if the insulation is carried out from the inside, then a vapor barrier film must be laid between the room and the heat-insulating material, which protects it from getting wet;
• it is impossible to lay a vapor barrier film on both sides of the insulation, as this will retain moisture inside;
• the joints of the vapor barrier film are glued with special adhesive tape and launched onto the walls of the building;
• joints between sheet heaters must be sealed with mounting foam.

Which insulation is better to choose for each method

For the correct and high-quality insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof, the following types of insulation can be used:

From the side of the attic, the insulation is laid on top of the ceiling. If you used to create a ceiling wooden beams, then you can use rolled or light bulk materials. For concrete slabs, dense mats and slabs or heavy bulk insulation can be used.

Thermal insulation materials for laying on the side of the attic

The following materials are used to insulate the ceiling from the outside.

1. Sawdust. This method of insulation has been known for a long time and is usually chosen in those regions where waste from cutting wood can be purchased cheaply or even obtained free of charge. For thermal insulation of the ceiling, a layer of 150–300 mm thick is usually sufficient. Sawdust is a combustible material, in order to eliminate this drawback, they are covered with a layer of slag on top. A mixture of slaked lime and carbide is poured from below to protect the material from insects and rodents. Sawdust can be mixed with clay or cement.

   Sawdust is the cheapest (and sometimes completely free) insulation material, which, without additional processing, is subject to burning and destruction by small rodents.

2. Expanded clay. To better fill small voids, it is necessary to use expanded clay of different fractions. If the region has a severe winter, then 30-50 cm of such material will be needed to effectively protect the ceiling. For a heated house in the middle lane, a layer of 10 cm will be enough. If the attic is not used, expanded clay can not be covered with anything, otherwise boards are laid on top of it or a small layer of thick cement mortar.

   So that expanded clay is not damaged from time to time, it is sometimes poured with a small layer of cement mortar, and then covered with boards or plywood

3. Clay. This is an ancient heat-insulating material, to ensure effective protection of the attic, its layer should be 50–80 cm. This is a lot, the weight of such an amount of insulation will be very large, so a mixture of clay and sawdust is usually used. In this case, a thickness of 15–20 cm will be sufficient.

   Clay is mixed with sawdust, which allows you to reduce the required layer of insulation several times

4. Reeds. For insulation, reed mats are used, which are stacked in two layers. The disadvantages of this method are the fire hazard of the material and the fact that rodents and insects are very fond of it.

   Reed is an environmentally friendly material that has high thermal insulation characteristics, but is damaged by rodents and insects.

5. Seaweed. For insulation purposes, seaweed is usually used. It is an environmentally friendly material with good thermal insulation properties. Most often it is used in coastal areas. Rodents and insects do not start in algae, in addition, this material is not afraid of high humidity. Boards can be laid on top of the algae for ease of movement.

   Algae is often used for roof insulation in seaside regions.

6. Ecowool. This is a representative of modern heat insulators, which can be laid directly on a concrete or wooden floor without the use of a vapor barrier film. However, it is better to lay it all the same so that particles of material do not get into the room through the cracks and joints of the ceiling. For applying ecowool, a special installation is used, which allows you to effectively fill all the cracks and get a monolithic coating. The thickness of the ecowool layer should be from 250 to 400 mm, it all depends on the region in which the house is located.

   It is better to apply ecowool with special equipment, but you can do it manually

7. Penoplex. This material is one of the varieties of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), it is stronger than ordinary foam. Since penoplex is vapor-tight, it cannot be used for wooden floors. The concrete surface is leveled, covered with a vapor barrier film, and only then the XPS is laid. After laying the plates, they are covered with a layer of mortar 50 mm thick, after it hardens, you can move freely on such a coating.

   In order to move freely through the foam, it is recommended to make a cement screed from above

8. Mineral wool. This is the most popular thermal insulation material, which can be slab or roll. Between the beams it is easier to lay mineral wool in mats. On concrete floors, roll material is more often used. If you need to move around the attic, then it is better to make a wooden flooring.

   For wooden floors, it is better to use mineral wool in mats, and for concrete - in rolls.

9. Polyurethane foam. It has many advantages, but it is absolutely vapor-tight, therefore it violates the microclimate in the room. For the application of polyurethane foam, special equipment is required, so it will not be possible to lay it on your own. For effective insulation ceiling, a layer of foam 10–12 cm thick is sufficient.

   For the application of polyurethane foam, special equipment is used

Heaters for work from the ceiling

Experts do not recommend insulating the ceiling from the inside, but there are times when there is simply no other option. In addition to the fact that this option leads to a decrease in the height of the room, insulation or its fumes can enter the room. In addition, there is a high probability that mold will begin to develop in it. If the method of internal insulation is chosen, then a ventilation gap of 2–3 cm must be left between the finishing of the ceiling and the insulation.

To insulate the ceiling from the inside of the house, several types of material can be used.

1. Extruded polystyrene foam. Only suitable for concrete ceiling. When creating a crate, the height of the beam should be 2–3 cm greater than the thickness of the heat-insulating material. After laying the insulation, a finishing material is mounted - this can be drywall, lining, stretch ceiling etc.

   Extruded polystyrene foam can be used to insulate the ceiling both from the outside and from the inside

2. Penofol. On the one hand, such a heater is foamed polyethylene, and on the other - foil. It is suitable for use in regions with a mild climate, since its thermal insulation properties are not very high.

   Penofol can be used to insulate the ceiling as a self material, and together with other heaters

3. plaster mixes. For insulation of ceilings, special heat-insulating compounds are used. They are not afraid of moisture, do not burn, have an attractive appearance. To apply such mixtures, you need to have special skills. If they are not, then you can invite the masters. This option is suitable for a concrete ceiling.

   To insulate the ceiling with plaster mixes, you need to have special skills

4. Cork. It is not afraid of moisture, so it can be mounted without a vapor barrier. It is an environmentally friendly material, it is convenient to use when creating false ceiling but the material cost is quite high.

   The cork can simultaneously act as a heater and finish the ceiling

When choosing a thermal insulation material, it is necessary to take into account what the house is made of, as well as your financial capabilities. If the house is wooden, then it is better to insulate the ceiling in it with natural materials; polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam will be enough for concrete floors.

ceiling insulation technology

By properly performing the insulation of the ceiling, you can get several advantages at once:

• in winter period heat will be stored in the room, and not go outside;
• in the summer the house will remain cool;
• high-quality insulation has good soundproofing characteristics, so the noise of rain or other extraneous sounds will not be heard in the room.

Insulation of the ceiling from the side of the room

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling from the inside of the room:

• the insulation is fixed with glue or "fungi";
• a crate is created from a bar or a metal profile and a heat-insulating material is fixed between it.

Regardless of the chosen option for installing the insulation, you must first perform preparatory work.

Installation of thermal insulation material with glue

Plate materials are mounted on the adhesive composition. To fix them, mounting foam, special glue or "liquid nails" are used. If fast-acting mixtures are used, then they should be kneaded a little so that they can be quickly used up.

The installation order will be as follows.

1. Applying adhesive to insulation. You can do this pointwise with a trowel or treat the entire surface of the plate with a notched trowel.

   The adhesive can be applied pointwise or over the entire surface with a notched trowel

2. Plate laying. The plate is brought to the surface of the ceiling and pressed against it for a few seconds.

   The tiles are pressed against the ceiling and held for a few seconds to allow the adhesive to set.

3. Additional fixation. After mounting several plates on the glue, they are fixed with the help of "fungi", which allows you to fix the insulation more securely.

   For additional fixation of the insulation, dowel-nails with wide caps are used.

4. Filling gaps. Small gaps remain between the plates, which must be filled with mounting foam.

   The gaps between the plates of heat-insulating material are filled with mounting foam

5. Finishing. Usually, the surface is reinforced with a special mesh, after which it is plastered.

Video: wooden ceiling insulation technology from the inside

Laying insulation between the batten guides

If it is planned to perform finishing with materials such as lining or drywall, the installation of a heat-insulating layer is carried out between the guides of the crate, which can be made of wooden bars or a metal profile.

The order of work will be as follows.

1. Ceiling markings. With the help of a level or a laser eye builder, lines are drawn along which the elements of the crate will be installed.
2. Frame fastening. wooden bars fixed with dowels, and the metal profile is mounted on special suspensions. The distance between the guides should be slightly less than the width of the insulation so that it can be inserted between them by surprise.

   The frame for laying insulation can be made of wooden bars or metal profiles.

3. Insulation lining. The heat-insulating material must hold well between the guides due to the expansion. If the frame is metal, then mineral wool or polystyrene can be additionally fixed with protruding shelves of hangers.

   Slab insulation is placed between the guides of the frame by surprise

4. Filling gaps. If mineral wool is used, then the plates are tightly pressed against each other so that there are no gaps between them. The resulting gaps between the foam sheets are filled with mounting foam.
5. Laying vapor barrier film. On the wooden frame it is attached with staples, and on metal - with double-sided tape.

   After installation of the heat-insulating material, a vapor barrier film is laid

6. Sheathing with finishing material. The last stage of work is the installation of finishing - it can be drywall, wooden or plastic lining.

   The last step is the installation finishing material- drywall or lining

Ceiling insulation from the attic

To insulate the ceiling from the attic side, slab or roll insulation, bulk or sprayed materials can be used. Each type of thermal insulation material is laid differently.

Laying tiles or mats

Insulation boards or mats can be laid in several layers.

The sequence of work will be as follows.

1. Installation of vapor barrier film. With a false ceiling, it is fixed from the side of the room, after which the cladding is mounted. If the ceiling is rolling, then the film is laid from the side of the attic.

   A vapor barrier film is first laid on the floor surface

2. Laying of thermal insulation material. Slab or roll insulation fit tightly between the beams so that there are no gaps left. If, as a rule, this can be done with mineral wool, then gaps may remain between the foam sheets, which are then filled with mounting foam.

   The width of the insulation must be chosen so that it is slightly larger than the distance between the beams, then the material will fit snugly into the space allotted to it

3. Installation of waterproofing. To protect the heat-insulating material from moisture, it is covered with a waterproofing membrane from above. All joints are sealed with tape.
4. Counter-lattice device. To create a ventilation gap, slats 3–4 cm thick are stuffed onto the beams.

   After the insulation, waterproofing is laid, a counter-lattice is made and boards are laid

5. Creation of flooring. Boards or plywood are laid on the counter-rails, along which it will be possible to conveniently move around the attic.

Video: ceiling insulation from the outside with foam

The use of sprayed insulation

Ecowool or polyurethane foam can be used as a sprayed insulation. It will not be possible to carry out work on applying polyurethane foam on your own, since you need to have special equipment. Ecowool can be laid dry by hand, but it is better to do it with a blow molding machine. When applied manually, the material is evenly distributed over a surface with a thickness of 100 mm, after which it is tamped and the next layer is poured until the required thickness of insulation is obtained. This method is less efficient and therefore rarely used.

If polyurethane foam is used, then it does not need to lay vapor barrier and waterproofing membranes, so the material is simply applied to the cleaned surface.

For polyurethane foam, it is not necessary to use vapor and waterproofing films

Before applying ecowool, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier membrane so that the insulation fibers do not penetrate into the room. After applying ecowool on top, it is covered with a waterproofing film that protects it from moisture.

Bulk insulation

Expanded clay, sawdust, vermiculite and similar bulk materials can be used to insulate the ceiling.

The sequence of work in all cases will be almost the same.

If sawdust is used to insulate the ceiling, then they must first be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. To protect against rodents, they must be mixed with lime in a ratio of 5:1. You can mix sawdust with cement in a ratio of 10: 1, add water and cover the ceiling with this solution.

Water is added to the mixture of sawdust and cement in such an amount that no water is released from the resulting mixture when it is compressed in a fist.

Video: using expanded clay for ceiling insulation

In private houses, a cold roof is usually made - this is a more economical option compared to a warm roof. There will be no serious problems with a cold structure if the ceiling is insulated correctly. Experts recommend doing this from the side of the attic, but in the absence of such an opportunity, insulation can also be carried out from the inside. The main thing is to choose the right heat-insulating material and install it in accordance with the developed technologies. Can be used different types heaters, the choice depends on the preferences and financial capabilities of the owners. It is better to use natural materials, but their cost is higher than that of artificial ones. Both of them have high thermal insulation characteristics and can reliably protect your home from cold and heat loss.

Typically, the ceiling and roof consume up to forty percent of the total heat exchange at home. Ceiling insulation is a topical issue for many families. For such work, certain knowledge and skills of the builder are needed. As with any construction process, it has its own peculiarities and difficulties. At present, thanks to modern technologies, any novice builder and a simple layman will be able to do such work.

Peculiarities

The so-called cold roof is built according to slightly different principles. During its construction, the usual types of layering of materials are not used. A similar view exists in those houses where the room under the roof is not residential and is not heated in winter.

Due to this structure of the roof, it has a light weight and minimum costs during construction. The installation itself is much easier to perform than when building a roof with a warm structure. Previously, it was considered ideal and inexpensive option during the construction of a simple country house.

It is important to know that due to the lack of heating in the upper room, the air there acts as a buffer, which helps to avoid excessive heat loss.

Due to the increase in heating tariffs, many people began to think about the insulation of ceilings. A large amount of heat evaporates from the house due to the presence of cracks in the ceiling. This is due to poor quality construction and poor building materials.

Insulation of the ceiling and the presence of a cold roof are a topical problem for residents of the upper floors. This is especially true of the old housing stock. This problem is also relevant for owners who live in a private house. The attic is a neutral territory, and the management company may not allow you to put a layer of insulation there. Therefore, there remains the option of insulating the ceiling in your own apartment.

A feature of this solution is that a few useful centimeters from the height of the ceiling will be lost. But due to the possibilities of drywall and various lighting fixtures you can get updated trendy interior. To keep warm and not pay too much for heating, you should think about insulating the ceiling.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in a private house has its own characteristics. It is customary to start work from the second or extreme floor. It can be an attic, top floor or attic space. Laying a special material with thermal insulation properties occurs on top of the ceiling or in empty slots and helps to keep heat in the room.

You don't have to think about additional finishing ceiling. The master will not need to mount the insulation on the ceiling itself. Due to the placement of insulation in the ceiling, condensation will not form.

You need to know that you can not insulate the roof slope. This will help melt the snow and form icicles. In addition, an insulated attic, according to building standards, is already an attic. It is also important to be aware of such a feature that the next layer directed from the room should be more vapor permeable than the previous one.

Another feature is that it is impossible to drain condensate. This rule also applies to sloped ceilings. There are drainable walls. This is a very expensive and difficult pleasure for the owners of a private house. The cool and hot sides of the ceiling in an apartment building can be reversed. It depends on the time of year.

It's worth knowing that modern technology ceiling insulation is focused on the absence of condensate in the material itself.

And if it is nevertheless formed, then it should have the opportunity to go outside.

Another feature is the process of laying on a cold floor. When using loose material, be sure to leave gaps. Another gap remains between the insulator and the insulation layer. This technique is a safety net in case of condensation.

In a private house or cottage, it is possible to insulate the ceiling of the next floor with the help of special material, which is placed on top of the ceiling or in the existing voids. Features of the overlap depend on its type. It can be made of wood or concrete.

To put the insulation on the beams, which are a wooden floor, it is worth using light and backfill materials. Good materials and in the form of a roll. In order to insulate concrete, it is worth using not very loose mats and dense materials.

If the issue of insulation was not resolved at the construction stage, or if we are talking about the last floor of a residential building, then it is quite justified to start insulation if necessary.

If we are talking about insulating the roof of a private lady made of wood, then in this case there are a number of advantages. Insulation will create additional sound insulation. This is especially true in moments of heavy rain and wind outside. In the heat, the insulation will delay the entry of hot air from the street. Due to this, a pleasant climate will remain in the room.

In winter, an insulated roof will help to significantly save electricity and will prevent heat from escaping from the room to the street.

It is possible to insulate the ceiling in a private wooden house on your own. It is important to be well prepared for this. Need to know the properties different materials, their pros and cons, own a specific technology for insulating the ceiling, study the video instruction.

It has become fashionable to insulate attics and turn them into attics. A feature of such a room is the ventilation area criteria, which are located between the room and outdoor structure. The size of such ventilation usually ranges from fifteen to twenty centimeters. But the usual roof has an attic with dormer windows. Therefore, to create a warm climate there, it is important to take care of sufficient air circulation.

When heating, good ventilation reduces the degree of heating of the roof and prevents the formation of ice blocks on the roof.

For residents of multi-storey buildings or private ones, in the absence of the possibility of insulating the roof from the top floor, another option can be considered. It's about insulation from below. This type of work is possible if the reconstruction of premises with a good ceiling in the attic is being done, when there is no way to get into the attic. This is especially true for residents apartment buildings and uncooperative managers. In this case, the structure will be mounted on the basis of a frame made of wooden slats or metal elements. Insulation can be in the form of plates.

With this type of insulation, there is a big minus. As mentioned earlier, due to this technique, the height of the room and precious centimeters are lost.

In addition, such work requires more experience and time to complete them.

It must be remembered that good and durable insulation will be obtained with an integrated approach. In addition, in a room with a cold roof, it is additionally necessary to insulate door, window openings and, without fail, the floor. With the help of a thermal imager, you can easily calculate the areas through which the the largest number heat. They are usually red and yellow.

materials

Currently, a large selection of heaters is presented in hardware stores. In order to choose the right options, you should carefully study the presented samples and their main characteristics. They must meet all the necessary requirements.

There are several nuances on the basis of which it is worth choosing materials. It is important to know that products with low thermal conductivity are best suited for this. The material must be moisture resistant. This is an important criterion when choosing a heater for the outside and with a rather worn roof.

Insulation and other materials must last quite a long time, so they must be durable. Do not forget about environmental safety. For work, you need to choose non-flammable or low-flammable products.

For a private house, the best insulation is expanded clay.

Often they use shavings or sawdust, they often use stone or mineral wool, ecowool, foam plastic, foam plastic, aerated concrete. Polyurethane foam is a sprayed type of material.

To insulate the roof in a wooden house, it is worth using certain types of insulation. You need to choose the material strictly in accordance with the type of overlap. It comes in two types - concrete or wood. For concrete, it is worth using heavier heaters. They come in the form of a mat or slab. As a rule, they are of the loose type.

Often builders also use heaters natural origin. These include sawdust, hay, pine needles, last year's leaves, algae or reeds. However, it is worth remembering that all natural materials, except for sawdust, are subject to severe decay.

It is important to approach the issue of material selection very responsibly.

Which to choose?

Insulation in the form of chips or sawdust is considered the oldest material. In areas where woodworking production is highly developed, this material is very cheap. It is great for creating a layer of insulation on top of a hardwood floor. A significant disadvantage of this type of insulation is its high flammability.

There are three types of mineral wool in the construction industry: stone, slag and glass. stone wool obtained from rocks with the addition of clay, limestone and formaldehyde.

A significant disadvantage of this material is that it contains harmful substances in its composition. When heated, they turn into phenols and enter the air. Balzat wool is considered safer, it contains much less harmful substances.

Slag wool is obtained as a result of the use of blast furnace slag and other waste from the metallurgical industry. Due to the average thermal conductivity and the ability to absorb a large amount of moisture, it is not suitable for warming a cold ceiling.

Glass wool is the most suitable material, besides it has an extremely low cost.

A clear disadvantage is that if particles of the material get on the skin or mucous membranes of a person, it can be harmful to health. In this case, experts advise using gloves and gloves when working with this type of insulation. special means protection.

A clear advantage of wool as a home insulation is the ease of its transportation and installation. This is possible due to the low weight. Cotton wool has low flammability and can only sinter at high temperatures. For hosts country houses and cottages, it is important to know that glass wool is not the most favorite material for insects, various rodents and mold to live.

Polyethylene foam is a foamed PVC, on which a layer of foil is applied. The manufacturer produces this insulation in rolls up to one meter wide. You can also insulate the ceiling with foam. But it is important to know that in this case additional installation of suspended structures will be required. It is also good to use expanded polystyrene in a private house. It fits snugly and, due to its good density, is often used in the attic, as a basis for further puttying.

Expanded clay is also very popular. It is better if it is made of light alloy clay. Due to this, the material is light and rather porous structure. The production of modern heaters allows you to choose foam products. Many builders consider isover as a heater. This material is similar in many respects to mineral wool. But it is more resilient and resistant to stress.

Another worthy option is penofol. Its distinctive feature is the ability to reflect thermal radiation. This material is well suited as a heater inside and outside the house. With this tool it is quite possible to insulate the entire country house and not just the ceiling.

Do not forget about polyurethane foam. It is a comfortable and good quality material, meets all the necessary characteristics as a heater. Represents mounting foam, which you only need to spray to get the desired result. It not only insulates, but also contributes to the sound insulation of the room.

For tenants apartment building it is best to obtain permission from the management company and insulate the floor of the attic.

An excellent option in this case would be the use of expanded clay. This material is fire resistant and perfectly protects against moisture.

Inside the apartment, vapor-permeable heaters are often used. In the process of carrying out repair work, the master uses special materials that fill the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling. After that, you can start finishing work with drywall.

Application area

As noted earlier, materials can be used both indoors and above the ceiling. Sawdust and clay are perfect for eliminating defects in wood floors. The floor is worked out with clay, then sprinkled with a thin layer of sand and sawdust is scattered on top.

In order to prevent mice from getting into sawdust, it is worth using carbide mixed with slaked lime. In an old house made of timber, the height of such insulation can reach thirty centimeters. When using the attic for household purposes, it is enough to put wooden boards on top of such a heater.

Experienced craftsmen use a special film with waterproofing.

It passes particles of steam from the living quarters. For a residential building, you can use a mixture of clay with sawdust. A great option in a chopped or frame house.

In any case, people will walk on the concrete floor of an apartment building. This will happen in the process of repair work or preventive maintenance. In this case, you should choose a dense foam or mineral wool. It is necessary to put plywood or a board on the insulation.

You can use these two types of insulation and a less dense layer. Due to this, the material will come out much cheaper. In this case, on the stove you need to make a crate of wood. It is better if it is on stands, because the mounted height can reach twenty centimeters or more. A heater is laid under such a crate and a gap is made for ventilation.

For warming reinforced concrete floor in brick house foam can be used. In this case, do not in question release of toxic substances in case of fire. Residential apartments are separated from it by a special ceiling that does not burn.

In the presence of a wooden floor, the use of foam is undesirable.

This also applies to fire safety regulations. The most common type of floors between floors is wood. In this case, your choice should be stopped on ecowool. This type of material is placed in a bulk, it can fill any space.

Ecowool tiles are laid in several layers. It is important that the seams of the layers are covered. After insulation, the attic is already turning into an attic, but this applies to private houses and cottages.

Recently, the issue of insulation in the basement has become relevant.

AT modern houses such a room can be equipped in a real living room. It can be an office, a gym or a workshop. In any case, this room can only be used if there is a comfortable temperature for a person in it. Insulation of the basement is the right step towards saving energy and heat throughout the house. Even if the basement is unsuitable for equipping usable space in it, it still needs to be insulated.

This can be done internally, externally or in a combination of ways. The choice of heaters is quite wide. The main thing is to choose suitable option for specific purposes.

Work technology

It is very important that the roof of the house is warm. It is not cheap, but in the future it saves the budget. After all, energy costs are significantly reduced.

When working on the insulation of the ceiling with expanded clay great importance has the weight of the material itself. Due to the weight of expanded clay, it cannot be used in the presence of wood floors. Due to the severity of the material, the flooring can completely fail. Expanded clay should be used in the presence of concrete floors. The scheme of insulation of the ceiling and roof may vary slightly.

Preparation of the attic begins with clearing the entire area from trash and debris.

If there is an old insulation, then it is also best to remove it. It can create an extra load on the floors.

The next step is to conduct a thorough isolation. This is necessary so that in the spring it is not necessary to remove the consequences of flooding. For this, a special membrane is used. It is placed between the logs so that about four centimeters are wound around the sides of the log.

The insulator must be pressed very tightly against the joists. Usually it is fixed with a stapler or glue.

wooden floor must have an oxygen tolerance on at least two sides.

After that, the laying of the first layer of insulation begins. It is placed to the level of the lag. Then the insulation is covered with a membrane that has a low oxygen throughput. Then the wood flooring is laid. Leave special gaps for ventilation.

It is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the insulation.

In this case, it is worth considering the layer of waterproofing. Often builders use material with a thickness of about fifty millimeters.

When carrying out insulation with polyurethane foam, you will need to call the master. The sputtering process takes place under high pressure. Due to this, all the gaps are filled. The thickness of the layer is from ten to twelve centimeters.

Mineral wool as a heater has a different thickness. The indicators depend on the amount of work. The layer of cotton wool used as a heater can be from two to twenty centimeters.

Polyethylene foam is polyethylene foam.

The thickness of such material is from one millimeter to two centimeters. Styrofoam is laid in slabs. The thickness of one plate varies from two to ten centimeters. This is due to the fact that the material must overlap each other.

When insulating the attic are used various materials for warming. But the average figure ranges from fifteen to twenty centimeters. The layer of clay and straw is about ten centimeters. In order for everything to be even, it is worth using a special ruler or stick.

Thermal insulation options

There are only two options for insulating a cold ceiling and roof - either the ceiling is insulated inside the room, or the outside is insulated. Both of these options will perfectly help to save heat and electricity in the house. Each of these options has its own set necessary materials and mounting technology.

Materials for thermal insulation are divided into two classes - these are vapor-permeable and vapor-tight. These indications indicate the ability to absorb moisture. It is for them that they choose one or another type of material for performing work on the insulation of the ceiling or roof. For work on external insulation use vapor-tight material, and for interior work - vapor-permeable.

Inside, mineral heaters are most often used. Work can be done using rolled glass wool. Complete with a plasterboard ceiling, you get an excellent buffer for hot air. The process of insulation is carried out at the time of installation of the false ceiling.

It will be correct if, first, a frame is made of profiles, in which the insulation will then be placed.

If the work is done by hand and on your own Don't forget about safety precautions.

Glass wool is a rather dangerous material. Ways to attach glass wool to the ceiling are quite simple. The material is glued to the tile adhesive. It is important that the glue dries as quickly as possible. After all the insulation has dried, it is sewn up with drywall.

It is worth remembering that cotton wool cannot be rammed and pressed.

Due to such features, it is mounted on glue, and not on self-tapping screws. The entire thermal effect of mineral wool lies in the abundant number of layers that are placed inside the wool.

In the process of work, it is worth paying attention to the installation of lighting equipment. Spotlights tend to heat up quickly and when interacting with mineral wool, they instantly fail. This is due to the accumulation of heat and the lack of any ventilation.

In this case, it is better to use chandeliers or sconces as lighting fixtures.

If the question is about spotlights stands fundamentally, that is, a way out of this situation. A layer of thermal insulation is not placed around the planned luminaire.

Another option is a large ceiling space. This is necessary so that there is an air cushion between the material and the drywall, into which the light bulbs are then mounted.

The option of external insulation will be the least expensive. In this case, it is worth carefully studying the condition of the floors. If they are old, they may simply not withstand the screed and collapse. If the attic is not planned to be used, then the option of external insulation will be ideal.

It is important to follow all the rules and technology of work. Otherwise, the ceiling and corners in winter time will freeze.

When working on your own, it is important to remember the features and properties of each building material.

Outside, attic insulation is considered the most economical. It will not be necessary to engage in the installation of a false ceiling to hide the insulation. A significant advantage of this method of insulation is the ability to subsequently make an attic in this room. This is suitable for aerated concrete or wooden house.

Many builders claim that insulation from the outside is in many ways reminiscent of floor insulation, but with a slightly different technique. After cleaning the attic space, it is carefully measured around the perimeter.

After the foam sheets are laid, all joints must be passed with mounting foam.

If the owners of the house do not plan to use the attic for living quarters, then the insulation work can be stopped at this point. If a small warehouse or room is placed in the attic in the future, additional work is needed. The insulation is covered with a layer of waterproofing material, reinforced, and then poured with a screed.

It is possible to use mineral wool. After laying it is recommended to close it with a special film. True, when such thermal insulation is made, then in the future only wooden floors can be laid on it.

Ceiling insulation is a very important process. Through this space in the house, up to a quarter of all heat is lost. The process itself can be carried out by dry and wet methods. The second option involves the presence of a wet mass, which adheres to the surface and forms a layer of sound insulation.

The attic room is protected from the street only by a roof. Therefore, such a room needs a thorough insulation.

It is advisable to check the moisture content of the material in summer and winter in several places. If an increase in humidity is not noted inside the insulation, then you should not worry about the quality of work.

by the most in a simple way checks will be an inspection of the roof in the winter.

If the snow blockages in the center of the roof or along the perimeter have melted a little, large icicles also hang down, then the heat loss is obvious.

Everything that was supposed to stay inside the house goes outside.

If the appearance of moisture is noted, then it is necessary to increase the air flow in the gap for ventilation. This is done by connecting to a common air exchange system and bringing it to the roof. The second way is to blow the room with outside air. In such a situation, the presence of drafts in the attic is a very useful thing.

From the above, it follows that the process of insulating the ceiling is quite simple. This is within the power of both a novice master and an amateur builder. The main thing is to properly lay the insulator, bring lumber, make a counter-groove, put insulation and close it all with a board. But still, some materials are best applied using special tools. To do this, you still have to turn to professionals.

When laying glass wool, you should contact a professional master.

The mass of material poured by hand retains heat much worse. Such savings on the work of specialists in the future will cost the owner of the premises much more.

In the case when the distance between different elements of the floor is greater, it is recommended to use roll-type mineral wool. Depending on the manufacturer, it is usually one meter wide.

It is important to know that the insulation of the attic is a smart decision. This will help reduce the heating of the room in the summer and will keep warm in the winter.

lovers natural materials must be aware of a few things. In the absence of sawdust, you can use straw. In this situation, water is added to the clay until a wet mass is formed. Then wet straw is added to the composition and everything is thoroughly mixed with hands or feet.

In the process of using sawdust, the composition must be left to dry for at least two weeks. At this time, the room should be well ventilated.

It is important to remember about fire safety. The material for insulation must comply with the standards. In his specifications should include holding the fire for a quarter of an hour in a private house and an hour and a half in an apartment building.