How to raise floors in a private house. Wooden floor on logs on the first floor of a private house. Flooring on concrete floor

16.11.2019

Floors in wooden houses should be reliable, warm, durable and beautiful. You can achieve the desired result on your own or with the involvement of professional builders. Information about the features of the device floors in wooden house important in both cases. Firstly, because it will be required for independent work, and secondly, to control employees.

Process Features

The floors in a wooden house consist of several layers. And in order to ensure comfortable living conditions, it is important to correctly determine the components of the floor "pie".

main element building structure for the floor is strapping. For capital buildings, it is usually made from a powerful beam with parameters cross section not less than 150 x 80 millimeters.

Often the timber is replaced by several boards, securely interconnected. Board binding is more stable. The boards are not subjected to the stresses experienced by the timber.

Products used for strapping are subject to pre-treatment with an antiseptic. Used oils are often used as such. Oiled wooden details do not rot and do not absorb moisture, so they serve for many years. In the absence of oil, apply special means available at every hardware store.

To extend the life of the strapping, waterproofing must be laid on the foundation. Usually it is a roofing material folded in two layers.

By strapping, you need to install lags. These are wide powerful boards, which need to be strengthened on the edge. They, like the strapping, need to be treated with an antiseptic. Logs must first be carefully examined, cracks repaired if any. Boards with big flaws should be replaced with better ones.

In light buildings, it is allowed to make logs prefabricated. For fastening constituent parts use special staples or studs. Docking points should be supported for greater reliability.

If the load is planned to be significant, it is better to strengthen the structure in advance. For this, the lag section is calculated, and their step is made small, from 60 centimeters.

The logs are hemmed with boards, along which a membrane is laid to prevent the penetration of wind and moisture into the room. A heater is placed in the formed cells. Depending on the chosen method, it can be either expanded clay or polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. Further actions depends on the preferences of the owners of the house. Any available options can act as a finishing floor, including water-heated floors.

Structure structure

It is not enough to build a wooden house, you need to correctly bring engineering communications, such as:

heating;
water supply;
sewerage;
electrical wiring.

abundance engineering structures indoors does not look aesthetically pleasing, so it is customary to hide them under the floor. The space between the lags allows you to cover most of the pipes. If there is an underground or basement floor, under the subfloor, you can install electric water heater, and it is possible to equip a gas boiler room. Especially important is the location of the water heater under the floor for a small shower room.

When building a house, it is worth remembering that the wooden floor should be protected from water vapor. Modern building materials allow the structure to breathe and at the same time reliably protect against moisture damage. Excellent insulation is obtained from isospan.

Izospan is used both in the equipment of the first floor and the second. It is laid under the mineral insulation and above it. nonwoven fabric Supplied in small rolls. Separate parts during laying should be overlapped and glued with special double-sided tape. In places of contact with the lags, isospan is attached to them with a construction stapler.

The insulating layer is covered with a continuous flooring. Perhaps better than others, OSB plates are suitable for this purpose.

OSB boards widely used in residential construction. They are perfect for arranging floors in wooden houses. Oriented strand board floors are good for underlayment under boardwalk, parquet, linoleum, carpet and laminate. But you should not do OSB with a finish coating.

For laying on logs set in 50 cm increments, 18 mm is considered a sufficient thickness of the plates. If the distance between adjacent lags is 10 cm greater, a greater thickness will be required - 20 mm. OSB boards are made by pressing with a special adhesive. They are durable, do not rot and do not dry out. Floors laid on OSB sheets do not creak when walking.

Laying is done quickly, because:

does not require special skills;
the sheets have the correct geometric shape, and time is not spent on fitting;
one standard plate (2500 x 1250 mm) covers an area of 3.1 m2.

Floor types

In private wooden houses, the type of floor depends on the method of overlapping. There are two options: concrete (reinforced concrete slab) or wood. On the second floor, the floors are usually made of wood, since heavier reinforced concrete slabs only increase the load on the foundation.

Inside the house, you can equip any of modern options floors: laminate, parquet, cork, tiles and others.

Concrete the floors are formed by pouring the screed. In some cases, this option saves construction time. The screed is completely ready for further processing after a month. Raw wood requires drying, which takes much more time.

Concrete floors in wooden houses reduce the cost of finishing floors. A well-made screed can serve as the basis for finishing without additional layers and surface leveling.

If it is necessary to raise the floor to a certain height, light expanded clay is poured under the screed. This reduces the load on the base without increasing the thickness of the screed itself.

In a new house, there is a high probability of cracking of the cement screed due to shrinkage of the structure. Serious damage will not follow, however, heat loss is possible. You can prevent negative consequences by laying a reliable insulation.

Concrete flooring is possible after calculations. As a rule, such a decision is made if the capital structure has a strip foundation.

The same is more suitable for a wooden house wooden floor. Wood is environmentally friendly, does not cause allergic reactions in residents: adults and children. natural material increasingly used by owners country houses, preferring it to bricks and various blocks.

Plank flooring is easy to sheathe with boards on both sides. Reliable fastening allows you to equip a "pie" of insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The multilayer structure can be made as a floating floor. In this case, it will not have direct contact with the base and walls of the house.

Preparatory work

Regardless of whether a structure is being built on a foundation, earth, screw piles, or simply on brick columns, the arrangement of the floor begins with preparatory work.

First, prepare the walls, equipping them ventilation holes. The lack of air access to the underground will lead to the rapid destruction of the wooden components of the structure.

The materials necessary for arranging the overlap must be correctly calculated. It will not be superfluous and a stock of wood of 10-15 percent.

Installation can begin when the bars and boards are sufficiently dry. When the humidity becomes normal, the material is inspected, sorted and treated with agents against rot and fungus.

Draft two-layer floors are made where the base has to be laid directly on open ground.

There are several ways to lay the floor on the ground. If you lower the floor to a minimum, then you can tamp the ground, lay out a pillow of sand, gravel or expanded clay, and then fill it with concrete. True, this option is more suitable for a garage, and not for places intended for permanent residence of people.

In the lung country house used for a seasonal stay, you need to do the floor differently. First you need to set up brick columns around the entire perimeter. It is very important to ensure that the surfaces of the supports have a single height (bring them to one horizon). On each support you need to lay a gasket made of roofing material or roofing felt. A 3 cm thick wooden lining treated with an antiseptic should be placed on the waterproofing layer.

This whole structure is closed with bars, along which lags are set with constant horizontal adjustment. The design is finally fixed with fasteners. The floor is located on the logs if the manufacture is carried out with a single flooring.

A double floor assumes the presence of laying insulation between the rough and finishing floor, hydro and vapor barrier, and, if necessary, other components.

Laying methods

Rooms in a wooden house will acquire a presentable appearance, and staying in them will become truly comfortable if the flooring is in harmony with the walls. Homogeneous material will make the interior of the room complete.

The choice of type of wood for the floor depends on:

material opportunities;
purpose of the premises;
planned loads.

With an unlimited budget, they choose the most beautiful, durable and dense materials from foreign countries. Exotic trees growing in tropical forests have unique properties. They withstand strong moisture, are easy to process, resistant to abrasion. In addition, boards from such trees are distinguished by beautiful colors. For example, merbau wood can be golden orange or reddish brown. A purple floor can be made using rosewood. And striped flooring is obtained when buying very expensive zebrano wood.

Boards made of coniferous trees, including pine and spruce, will not require large expenses. From such floors, the room is filled with substances useful for humans and a pleasant aroma. The wood always remains warm, so it is pleasant to walk on the floor with bare feet.

For showers, baths and saunas, aspen and lime boards are required. They do not emit resin, are resistant to water and high temperatures.

On a veranda open to precipitation, the floor is best made of corrugated oak or larch boards.

The thickness of the floorboards must be chosen taking into account the distance between adjacent lags. With a distance of 600 - 700 mm, a thickness of 40 mm is sufficient. If the spans are larger than the specified size, boards with a thickness of 50 mm should be preferred. As for the width, it is set design project or host preferences.

If you decide to do the flooring with your own hands, remember that it is inconvenient to lay wide boards alone. In addition, the larger the canvas, the greater its shrinkage. The results of this inevitable process can affect the quality of the wood flooring. For this reason, it is better to take narrow and not too long boards.

One way to install the floor is to lay it apart, with this method, the joints of the ends of the boards should not coincide in adjacent rows.

If plywood is used as the base, parquet boards glued with mastic or glue and additionally fixed with self-tapping screws, as in the case with massive board. It is necessary to glue over the entire area, without voids.

In addition to the traditional straight styling, they use a diagonal one. Laying at an angle of 45 ° to the wall looks especially elegant in a spacious room.

Arranging the floor requires thorough preparation, quite a lot of time and physical effort. Despite this, many believe that it is possible self-installation without the involvement of specialists and additional costs. Indeed, by being persistent, following a step-by-step guide, you can do without outside help and save a lot of money.

If it is necessary to re-lay the floor, the worn top coat is removed, the condition of the substrate is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Logs that have flaws must be replaced, as well as other components of the base affected by rot or fungus. During overhaul floors change wet or caked insulation, as well as insulation.

If the logs are in good condition, but begin to sag, you need to put a lining under them, for example, from plywood smeared with parquet glue.

Instead of expensive membrane films, glassine can be used as a moisture barrier.

When laying under the finish coating is done with a sheet building material(Fibreboard, OSB, plywood), it is attached to the base with self-tapping screws. Fastening points should be located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet with a step of about 150 mm. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be recessed into the body by 3 mm. The resulting recesses should be puttied. Without putty, the finish at the attachment points will be adversely affected. And after some time, traces of poor-quality work will appear on it.

In most cases, in private housing construction, wooden floors are made, giving preference to natural material. Concrete and bulk foundations. We will figure out which floors and how best to do in a private residential building.

Wooden base - practical and comfortable

Wood has been used for flooring for a long time. It has a number of important advantages, among them are the following:

low thermal conductivity ( optimum temperature both summer and winter)
environmental friendliness (modern people pay special attention to this characteristic);
ease of installation (making a wooden floor with your own hands is relatively easy);
high maintainability and durability (with regular maintenance and minor repairs wooden base lasts for centuries).

In a private house, it is recommended to use ash or oak wood for floors. These tree species are considered the most durable. But their cost is quite high. Therefore, as a compromise, the wooden floor in the house can be made from fir, spruce, larch, cedar, pine. It is important to choose the right bars and boards - they must be well dried. The maximum allowable wood moisture content for flooring is 12%.

With a higher indicator, the boards can “lead”, and instead of a flat base in a private house, you will get a bumpy surface with cracks and gaps. A wooden floor, which can be made with your own hands in private housing construction, can be two- or one-layer. In the first case, an additional so-called "draft" base is provided. The scheme of its construction depends on what material will be used as a heater.

If expanded clay or slag is used, it is better to lay a solid base of wood. When choosing mineral wool for insulation between the individual boards of the subfloor, they maintain a distance of 40–50 cm. All elements of the “preliminary” base are protected by a vapor barrier, it is recommended to install thin plywood on top. And only after that lay the material chosen for it.

Regardless of the number of layers and the method of construction, the wooden floor is necessarily fixed on the logs. They are bars that are placed in the walls of the building or installed on concrete base. Immuring logs into the walls is obtained when the room where you need to do the flooring has a small area. There is also a technique for arranging wood floors on "floating" support pillars. We will talk about it later.

Floors on a concrete screed - do it yourself

Logs made of wood can be mounted directly on a concrete slab or screed. If you need to slightly raise the level of the base (by 15–20 cm), it is better to use the laying pattern on threaded studs. A wooden floor with lags on concrete should always be made in two layers. First you need to build a rough base, then - the finish. You can do this according to the following scheme:

We mark on the concrete the places where the logs will be installed. We note right away that if you want to get a non-creaky and truly reliable coating, it is better not to save on lags. They should be massive, made of quality wood. The distance between the lags is taken about 60 cm.
Every 30-40 cm on the markup, you need to make points and drill them. And then mount the studs with fixing elements into the holes obtained. They are necessary to hold the beams, which are also drilled and mounted on studs.
We bring the beams (by adjusting the clamps on the fasteners) to the horizontal (it must be absolutely accurate). The quality of work is constantly checked by the level. Here you have to tinker, but the floor in the house needs to be made perfectly flat.
We tighten the nuts on the studs. With a grinder, we cut off the excess parts of the hardware and embed them in the recesses, which should be prepared in advance.

Now you can make a rough floor, insulate it and proceed to the flooring of the finishing base. Installing the log directly on the screed should also not cause any particular difficulties for those who do this work with their own hands. First, marking is done (the distance between the lags is 60 cm). After that, the beams are placed on a concrete base by means of anchor fasteners. Logs are allowed to be raised to any height convenient for you.

The next steps are:

we attach foam-type polyethylene or other insulating material of relatively small thickness to the lags with brackets;
along the perimeter of the room (along the walls) we mount strips of mineral wool;
on foamed polyethylene we place medium or small expanded clay, the layer of which is covered with a vapor barrier film.

Your wood floor is almost ready. It remains to lay plywood on it (take thicker material) or ordinary boards. From above, in addition, you can make a finishing coating - laminated parquet, carpet.

Wooden floors on the ground and on supporting pillars

It is easy to arrange a wooden base directly on the ground. Here is what you need to do with your own hands in this case:

compact the soil as carefully as possible in the underground in a private house;
make a 20–40 cm pillow (gravel, sand, medium crushed stone in approximately equal proportions) and again ram it;
put the reinforcing cage on the pillow and roofing material (or other type of rigid waterproofing).

Now it is required to build supports for the lags - blocks of concrete or brick, which are fixed on the waterproofing layer to the mortar. We leave a distance of 60 cm between the blocks, and a layer of insulating material is placed around them - mineral wool or ordinary foam. Then wooden logs are placed, their fastening is performed with metal corners. Here it is very important to correctly align the beams so that the floor in a private house is “without waves” (use a regular level, or better, a laser level).

Between the lags, it is desirable to lay another insulating layer (for example, mineral wool boards) and cover it with a vapor barrier. Then the boards are laid. It is recommended to fix them with small carnations, they need to be driven in from the side. In order for the flooring in a private house to be well ventilated, the edge boards must be laid at some distance (10–15 mm) from the walls. Now let's see how to properly make a "floating" lag system. It is quite possible to build a floor on pillars with your own hands. For this, you do not need to have a special construction education.

In the subfield, dig recesses (0.5–0.6 m) for brick columns (the distance between them is 0.7–1 m).
Fill the pits with sand, gravel and crushed stone with a layer of about 0.2 m, fill this mixture with water and compact it as efficiently as possible. The stability of the future floor in a private house depends on this.
Install concrete or brick pillars on the pillow made. The diameter of such columns is recommended to be at least 40x40 cm.

We will fasten floor beams to anchors or threaded studs. What hardware to take - you choose, there is not much difference. Studs or anchors should be embedded 10–15 cm in upper part supports. After that, the pillars need to be covered with roofing material (do not spare the material - make 3-4 layers), cut holes in the logs for fastening hardware and lay the beams on the waterproofing.

Professionals advise making a wooden base according to the “floating” technique in two layers. Then it will always be warm in a private house. It is advisable to fill the subfloor with expanded clay, not reaching 8-10 cm to the wooden floor.

How to build a high-quality concrete floor yourself?

Concrete flooring is most often equipped in dwellings with brick or concrete walls. Often such a base needs to be made in order to subsequently cover it with wooden boards.

The concrete floor is characterized by a long service life, excellent strength properties. It is easy to fill it without having special knowledge and building skills. We also note that a concrete floor can be made by spending a minimum of funds. This material is relatively inexpensive, so it is very often used for the needs of private construction.

Concrete coating is done like this:

They choose the top layer of earth in the underground and equip a 10-15-centimeter sand cushion, which is abundantly watered with water and well tamped.
A 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured onto the compressed sand (it is advisable to take the material of the middle fraction) and ramming is performed again.
They make (rough) on a solution of gravel or sand - it would be right to add a little foam crumb or expanded clay to this composition to make the concrete floor warmer.
The hardened screed is covered with a waterproofing material (polyethylene, roofing material), making sure that it goes 20 centimeters onto the walls. The overlaps of the film or roofing material must be glued.
Insulation is poured - expanded polystyrene, produced according to the extruded method, or expanded clay. The more insulating layer you make, the warmer the concrete frame will be.

After all these operations, a reinforcing metal mesh on expanded clay or polystyrene and pour the second screed (finish). Work is done on beacons. They should be set strictly according to the level, then the concrete frame will not have distortions. And the house will delight you with an absolutely even surface without height differences. We hope that you can easily make a concrete floor, guided by our advice. Comfort and warmth to your home!

Before laying plank floors as a topcoat, you need to choose the right material, prepare the base and lay several insulating layers in the cake. The wooden floor can be laid on beams or hollow, full-bodied monolithic slabs.

It is mandatory to use hydro and vapor barrier, acoustic materials and insulation are used as needed. A water heated floor under a grooved board is not effective.

The quality of the material depends on the comfort of living, the budget for repair and operation, the resource of the floor covering.

In the manufacture of sheet piles, manufacturers are required to comply with the requirements of GOST 8242:

Important! The thickness of the sheet pile affects its rigidity and strength, therefore, for the BP-27 bar and the DP-35 board, the beam / log spacing is 0.6 m, and for the DP-21 sheet pile it is reduced to 30 cm.

lumber quality

A sheet pile is made from a board of edged grade Extra, A or B, the output parameters are controlled in accordance with GOST 8242:

integrity - a board with a width of 6 - 14 cm is usually solid, wider products are glued using furniture board technology;
cleanliness of processing - roughness of 120 microns for varnishing, 200 microns for painting, 500 microns have the back surfaces of lumber;
humidity - 8% when packaged in a film or 12%;

A wide board is more convenient to work with, it is usually made by gluing, therefore it is less prone to warping. conifers pine / spruce are considered budgetary, larch and cedar are valuable species, by default impregnated with a natural antiseptic. One-piece sheet pile without splicing from hardwood always shorter than coniferous. This is due to the structure of the wood.

Prohibited species for floorboards are:

linden, poplar for the entire range;
BP-27 and DP-27 from aspen and alder are suitable exclusively for residential premises;
DP-35 is not made from alder and aspen.

Important! On the back side, the tongue has several narrow or one wide cut, which is necessary for air circulation and compensation of internal stresses in the wood.

Foundation preparation

The sheet piling is laid either on logs / beams, less often on the subfloor, depending on the specific tasks being solved and additional conditions that need to be taken into account:

solid flooring of the subfloor is more expensive than a subsystem of a bar or board on the edge as a log, laid every 30 - 60 cm;
attic and basement floors must be insulated, isolated from wet vapors;
Acoustic materials with reflective and absorbing properties are often laid inside interfloor ceilings.

If the grooved board is planned as a finishing coating for floor slabs, the logs are mounted on a screed. Or across the beams on floors of this type, only if the step of the beams does not correspond to the design size (more than 60 cm).

Waterproofing

Regardless of the floor, moisture can penetrate into the floors, therefore, when making a wooden floor with your own hands on beams or reinforced concrete slabs, it is necessary to take into account the nuances of the design:

waterproofing is created from dense membranes, welded roll materials or polyethylene films (2 layers of 150 microns minimum);
applied in a continuous layer;
enters the walls by 15 cm;
joints are sealed.

If the wooden floor is made along the logs on the slab, the waterproofing is laid on the leveling layer (screed or expanded clay sand). After installation, the floor slabs have significant irregularities; without a leveling layer, the film can be torn by soles when walking.

Waterproofing wooden floors on floor slabs.

Floor beams do not provide a continuous rigid horizontal layer. Therefore, a binder is attached to them:

edged board below, which is the ceiling of the lower floor
pieces of edged board over a cranial bar fixed along the beams in the lower level

Vapor barrier of a wooden floor on beams.

Important! The vapor barrier in this case is laid over the boarding of the filing and over the beams, that is, not at the same level, but in steps.

thermal insulation

Since water floor heating contours are not used under wooden floor finishes, interfloor ceilings beams are not insulated. However, thermal insulation is necessary inside floors that are in contact with unheated levels - attic, underground. In an unexploited and unheated attic, a tongue-and-groove board is not used, since the premises are non-residential. However, for walking here, an edged board or shields made of this material can be laid. In this case, you should take into account the nuances:

the waterproofing layer is not able to completely prevent the penetration of moisture into the structure of the overlap;
wood (beams and logs) absorbs this moisture, but cannot evaporate back if steam-tight polystyrene foam is laid around it;
decay, reproduction of mold, fungus, pathogens begins.

Therefore, inside a wooden floor or between logs from a bar on a reinforced concrete slab, it is necessary to lay mineral wool or Ecowool. These heaters are hygroscopic, they also absorb moisture, and do not interfere with its evaporation from adjacent wooden structures.

Soundproofing

In a conventional mineral wool insulation, basalt or fiberglass fibers are oriented horizontally. In special soundproof mineral wool, they have a vertical orientation. Therefore, one layer of heat or sound insulation does not solve all problems.

In screeds on floor slabs, complex sound insulation is used:

layer of elastic material - partial absorption of airborne and structural noise;
a layer of concrete with a minimum thickness of 5 - 6 cm - the screed has a large mass, reflects part of the wave that has penetrated through the previous layer.

Floor soundproofing.

When making a boardwalk on your own, there is no massive concrete screed by default, the efficiency of the soundproofing structure is sharply reduced, and it will not be possible to significantly increase the level of sound insulation.

vapor barrier

After the wood and insulation have absorbed the moisture that has penetrated into them, these materials begin to evaporate it. The task in this case is to ensure that moisture is freely removed from the beams and insulation, but not to let excess moisture out of the room back. For this, special membranes are used that allow steam to pass in only one direction.

it freely passes moisture through itself;
moisture condenses on the outer surface of the membrane;
is discharged by natural ventilation in a specially provided air layer inside the wooden floor.

Boardwalk vapor barrier.

For circulation under the grooved board, the cuts on its back surface are responsible. In order for air to enter the structure and freely exit outside, ventilation hatches are made in the boardwalk, decorated with gratings. They are placed diagonally in the room near the plinth in the least visible places.

Appointment lag

In different floor designs, lags solve the same tasks:

floor slabs - under the finish coat, it is necessary to hide the insulation, sound insulation and provide a ventilated space, so the tongue is nailed or screwed with screws to the logs;
wooden floor - logs are needed with a large distance between the beams in order to eliminate the deflection of the tongue-and-groove board;
ensuring a horizontal level - gaskets, polymer wedges or studs of a leveling floor are used;
providing a space box - inside which you can lay insulating materials.

Logs are made either from a board 50 x 150 mm or from a bar of a suitable section. To ensure vertical stability, braces and spacers can be mounted between them.

wood floor technology

Before laying the wooden floor in the rooms, you should take into account the nuances:

even after special treatment, wood is not recommended to be used in rooms with high humidity;
by analogy with a log house, the flooring will inevitably shrink, so not all boards are fixed in a row, but only in the first, every fourth and last row;
after 6 - 12 months, the coating is sorted out, the gaps between the floorboards are eliminated by repeated tightening, bent and warped boards are replaced with new ones.

Lumber in a wooden house is easiest to treat with flame retardant and antiseptic before laying, and then only soak the cut points when cutting it. For the convenience of developers, manufacturers produce colored fire protection so that the surface is evenly treated with a protective compound.

Laying scheme

Rows of tongue-and-groove boards are located across beams or logs. In constructions wooden floors choice of floorboard orientation relative to window and doorways is absent. On reinforced concrete slabs, the logs can be oriented in any direction.

in complex projects, rooms have an original configuration;
during construction, errors are made due to which opposite walls are not parallel to each other;
if it is possible to choose the orientation of the floorboards, it is better to place them with their butt against non-parallel walls.

Advice! The diagonal layout of the grooved board is not recommended. Otherwise, when rallying after 6 - 12 months, to eliminate cracks from shrinkage of lumber, the floorboards in each row will have to be cut near the walls.

Grooved board installation

To lay a wooden floor from a profiled sheet pile, you must perform the following sequence of actions:

Clamps, jacks or wedges are used for rallying. Gaps between floorboards are not allowed. Boards of standard width 6.4 - 14 cm are attached on one side, with a wider face - on both sides along the width of the floorboard. Fastening is carried out through with recessing the head of the nail / self-tapping screw or at 45 degrees into the groove. In the latter case, the maintainability of the floor covering is sharply reduced.

Since the wall-mounted sheet pile will inevitably have to be additionally rallied after six months - one year of drying, it is better to fasten it vertically during initial installation, and during final installation after a specified period - into the lock at 45 degrees. In 85% of cases, the tongue is painted, less often it is opened with two layers of varnish.

Read more about the nuances of tongue and groove board flooring.

Thus, in a private house, it is possible to lay sheet pile flooring both on beams and on floor slabs. All work is available for self-fulfillment, professional equipment and tools are not required.

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The arrangement of a wooden floor is recognized as the most time-consuming, expensive and complex, since any structure made of wood should be protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the floors will become unusable in a short time, and they will need to be replaced. Using some impregnation, you can protect the tree from decay. Chemical protection methods are very effective and prevent the process of material deterioration. However, a wooden structure impregnated with chemicals cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Considering that it is because of this indicator that a tree is chosen, few people use chemistry. When laying on concrete, waterproofing is required over the entire area between the layers. fasten wood flooring follows using metal squares to create a gap between the bases and the joists.

The subfloor denotes certain bases, which by themselves form an ideal surface for laying the final floor. It is created to ensure the distribution of loads directed to the floor covering.

In wooden structures, draft floors are made by three methods:

wooden on logs;
pouring concrete;
use of plywood flooring.

Wooden floors on logs

In a wooden house, the subfloor device does not differ from the installation of similar structures in a monolithic or brick building. The only feature is how the lags are attached:

There is no need to attach lags to various wooden planks. Best Option- strengthen them to the basement or grillage of the foundation, retreating a couple of centimeters from all the walls. The distance from the support must be at least 11 cm on all sides of the lag.
Before laying the base, lay the strapping from below, which is made of a long and thin board. Logs are attached to it using metal anchors. They do not need to be rigidly strengthened with strapping. It should only be fixed so that they do not stagger while working on another layer of the floor. This design will have a few centimeters indent from the walls.

If the distance is less than 11 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls. But before that, it is necessary to make the initial laying on the base, then you should attach a choice of timber or logs. It is necessary to first measure the contour of the cutting site, then cut in the tree the dimensions necessary for the groove, which will be required for the support function.

Important: it is recommended to add about 2cm to further widen the lag. It must be remembered that the laying of the log and beams is done on the grillage or plinth when the laying of the waterproofing layer is completed.

The standard steps between two lags are 40-60 cm. However, when choosing, great emphasis is placed on the width of the insulation and the required load. Based on this, the choice of the lag section and the acting load is made. At small sizes sections should be approximately 15x10, with heavy loads - 15x20, with medium loads - 15x15 centimeters. In case of excessive load action, if the beams have a small section, it is desirable to provide section parameters of 30x40 cm.

Installation of subfloors on logs

When the installation is done, you will need to do the standard installation. It is carried out in several stages:

It is necessary to fix the cranial bars. They have small sections (approximately 4 by 4), they are fixed in the lower parts of the log from the side. Professionals recommend replacing the cranial bar with boards that will have more lags in width. They will need to be nailed either along or below the lags.
Boards should be laid. They need to be laid on the cranial bar, but not fastened. Considering that their main task is to fix the insulation, they are left to lie freely.
Waterproofing. Lay it on the subfloor. This is done to avoid additional load. The waterproofing is laid so that it goes onto the wall at the level where the floor will be in the future. It is recommended to use film insulation, and use a stapler for fastening.
Thermal insulation - laid on waterproofing.
Vapor barrier. Lay in the same way as waterproofing.
Ventilation. To create a ventilation gap, you only need to break through the counter rails along the lag on top of the vapor barrier.
Coating. At the final stage, it is proposed to use chipboard sheets, as well as boards. From the wall, the logs must be separated by a gap of 2 cm. They will then be placed heaters.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house design services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Video description

Read more about floor insulation in a wooden house - in this video:

Rough plywood floors

The floor in a wooden house is one of the most reliable options, because it has a high hardness. Plywood is also used for floor coverings. If it is well sanded and varnished, it looks expensive. But in most cases, it is then covered with linoleum or parquet flooring.

Plywood can be laid in one of two options:

On a cement base. It will be necessary to provide horizontal and level ground or use adjustable stands.
Attach to the legs. The main thing is to correctly set the lags to ensure that the joint of the sheet hits them. The joists must be set in such a way that the top surface provides a straight line. They then remove the insulation and sound insulation.

Need to know! When laying plywood in 1 layer, it is necessary that it be at least 15mm thick, if there are 2 layers, the minimum thickness should be at least 9mm.

All debris and dust must be removed from the base prior to final laying. If possible, priming should also be done - primer treatment. Plywood must be fixed with glue, and the head of the self-tapping screw must be drowned.

Concrete floor

Like the draft and finishing floor in a wooden house, the concrete version is less common than the others. The concrete floor has one significant drawback - it is very cold. Decide this problem possible with the help of insulating material.

The advantages include durability and reliability. Compared to analogues, it is more even and durable. The concrete floor in a wooden house is also chosen because it is better preserved from destruction.

In a wooden house, a concrete floor is made in 11 stages:

Lay on the lags.
Lay on the ground.
A concrete screed is made on top of the wooden floor.
The floor horizon is set with marks (it is recommended to pull the cord for accuracy).
Stakes less than 11 cm should be hammered into the ground, so that later gravel can be poured over them. After that, it should be tamped and the pegs removed.
Next, the sand is poured.
Then a large polyethylene film is laid, creating an overlap on the walls. It will act as waterproofing.
Using slats, it is necessary to divide the room into equal strips. The width of each should be about 1 meter. The height of the installed rail must be equated with the height of the cord. The concrete is then poured onto the prepared surface.
Concrete is leveled along the rails.
Next, the concrete should be covered with a film and left to harden for several weeks. To avoid cracking, it is sometimes necessary to spray the mass with water.
After the expiration of the term, it is covered with a screed of cement and sand.

Materials for processing lags

Some environmental factors, such as dampness, should not affect the lags. Therefore, when providing a floor in a wooden house, it is necessary to protect them from certain factors.

Bioprotective compounds

The drug with a bioprotective composition protects the tree from mold, decay, blue discoloration, beetles and fungi. One application of such funds will provide protection for 27-32 years. You can buy them in the form of a concentrate. Sometimes a pigmenting substance is added to the composition, which makes it possible to control the quality of application.

Bioprotective compounds are praised for:

environmental friendliness;
slight odor;
absence of allergens.

It is necessary to apply preparations before the installation of the floor in a wooden house has begun.

Indelible antiseptic

Great option if in the city high humidity. It is also indicated for use in places with high rainfall, temperature fluctuations, in baths and saunas. Working with antiseptics is simple and not too time consuming. Approximate consumption per 1 meter is about 400 grams. Surface application can be achieved after 4 coats. After completion of work, the color of the tree will become pistachio.

Folk methods

Folk remedies for processing lags:

Transformer oil. Thanks to deep penetration into the structure of wood and embalming, this agent perfectly protects the material.
Resin. From bugs, fungi and decay, birch resin will perfectly help. Its only disadvantage is the vulnerability to fire.
Motor oil. Pros - low price good protection. Cons - too strong smell, sometimes interfering for several months.

Before starting work, you should understand the layout of wooden floors, which consist of 4 “layers”:

Draft coating.
Heat and waterproofing layers.
Clean floor.
Finishing.

Therefore, when wondering what to make a finishing floor in a wooden house, you must first complete the first 2 stages, which were mentioned above, and start working on the finishing floor.

To make a finishing floor yourself, you need to buy milled boards.

Need to know! The finished floor in a wooden house is laid 5 centimeters above the subfloor.

The floor structure of the first floor in a wooden house is being built in 3 stages:

Logs are laid - so that the boards can be laid perpendicular to them. The smallest thickness is 25mm.
The board must be fixed closer to the wall.
Next, you should use a hammer and a bar so that the boards are as close to each other as possible. With the help of a self-tapping screw, fasteners of each log are carried out through the comb.

Important! If there are plans to change the floor in the future, it is necessary to use a simple mounting option - all floorboards should be fixed from above to the logs using self-tapping screws.

Conclusion

The foundation is poured, the walls are raised, the roof is mounted and windows with doors are installed. You can also start laying the floors in a wooden house with your own hands. The stage of work is not difficult, but requires a careful approach to details.

Proper laying of the floor cake is the key to its long service life. A small mistake with waterproofing is enough and you will have to re-lay the entire coating in a few years. Lack of ventilation of the subfloor will lead to the same result. And without insulation, you will not only have to walk around the house in warm slippers, but also fork out for additional heating costs.

Draft floor - what is it?

It is important to protect a wooden house from moisture - rotting makes building elements unusable very quickly. Therefore, you should not cut logs into the first crown of the log house, even if they are made of larch and treated with an antiseptic - in any case, they will have to be changed sometime. It is optimal to lay the logs on the foundation and fix them after the walls have been raised.

It is also important to ensure good ventilation of the subfloor by organizing air ducts of sufficient size in the basement or foundation. According to the regulations, in a subfield without forced ventilation, the area of the vents should correspond to 1:400 of the subfloor area. Otherwise, regardless of the waterproofing measures, the picture under the house will be unpleasant.

When the flooring is ready, you can start warming. But before laying the insulation, it is worth resolving the issue of its protection from moisture - after all, wet mineral wool not only does not retain heat, but also contributes to the formation of fungus and mold on adjacent wood.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier - what's the difference?

Waterproofing protects materials from direct ingress of water, and vapor barrier prevents the penetration of wet fumes. Thus, all waterproofing films are laid on the outside, and vapor barriers on the inside. Everything is clear with the walls. But how and what to put on the floor?

Under the hygroscopic insulation on the rough flooring of the first floor, it is better to lay any vapor-tight films, even simple polyethylene ones. They will protect expanded clay or basalt slabs from fumes rising directly from wet ground. At the same time, expensive membranes that remove moisture to the outside will not be useful here - all evaporation still rises. But, given the ventilated subfloor, they are increasingly returning to the time-tested glassine as a “breathable” material.

But on top of the insulation, it is imperative to lay vapor-permeable films that remove possible moisture. To do this, leave a special ventilation gap (at least 5 cm). If the lag boards are not high enough, a counter-rail is nailed along them, over the membrane, on which the finishing floor is laid.

Underfloor heating - why is it necessary?

Even schoolchildren know the principle of convection - warm air rises up. According to this logic, an uninsulated floor cannot release heat from the house in any way. In fact, heat loss in a cold field reaches 20%!

All because of the same convection - the air from the underground rises into the house, cooling it, and the energy resource is also spent on heating the air in an unheated basement or underground.

Each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages:

perlite, vermiculite, shungizite - analogues of expanded clay, do not absorb moisture, but are more expensive;

Styrofoam and its derivatives are not exposed to moisture, so they do not need waterproofing, are lightweight and inexpensive, but create a "greenhouse effect" in the house and are not recommended for wooden houses.

Bulk heaters are laid on a solid flooring, slabs and mats can be placed on a sparse subfloor, one has only to properly lay the waterproofing and protect the insulation from rodents.

Finishing floor and its types

Depending on the desired interior design, almost any floor can be laid in a wooden house:

Wooden floors are great for living rooms. The main thing is to put a good waterproofing to protect the insulation. But it is better to lay tiles in the kitchen and in the bathroom - places with high humidity.

In addition, there are variations with the installation of warm wooden floors and even a concrete screed along the logs. So the choice depends only on building skills and design preferences.

Do-it-yourself flooring technology in a wooden house

Underfloor heating is comfortable, economical and extremely functional. Especially when you have to dry winter overalls, jackets and mittens of three children after winter games on the street. And so the entire floor area turns into a capacious battery - it's a sin not to use this!

Concrete screed in a wooden house - reliability and functionality

In a wooden house, a warm floor in a concrete screed is difficult to make, but quite possible:

The most important thing when pouring a concrete screed is to correctly calculate the load on the logs in advance. After all, the weight of the finished slab, taking into account the finishing floor, will be about 150 kg / sq.m, and this is without taking into account furniture and residents. The step of the beams when pouring concrete is halved, while the logs themselves are lowered to the height of the screed (if the pouring is done only in the kitchen and bathroom, and not in the whole house).

A great way to reduce the weight of the floor is not to lay a subfloor. It is enough to fix the vapor barrier film on the bottom with slats so that the insulation plates do not sag.

A dense waterproofing is laid over the log with a mandatory ventilation gap of 5 cm. It is very important to glue all the places of its attachment to the beams with butyl rubber tape - so that there are no holes left through which the screed will wet the insulation.

Slate or cement particle board is placed on the waterproofing - they have the best adhesion to concrete. A formwork of the same height as the future screed is installed on top of the level. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the substrates from the same slate. The height of the substrate is about 1 cm.
A "snail" of underfloor heating pipes is laid out. It can be attached to the grid with conventional cable ties. It is important not to forget to lay a damper tape between the formwork and reinforcement - to compensate for the expansion of the future floor.

To protect yourself, make a trial run of underfloor heating systems with high blood pressure. If no leaks are found, you can start pouring.

After pouring, it is better to vibrate the screed and only then level it with a long rule. It takes 1-2 weeks to water the concrete for it to gain strength. After a month, you can start laying any floor covering.

Wooden floors - simple and beautiful

If the floor joists aren't strong enough to support the weight of the concrete slab, don't fret! After all, you can make a dry warm floor with water heating. To do this, you need boards with grooves for pipes, and foil is used as a heat-reflecting layer. The laminate is on top. The whole process is presented in detail in the video: