How to lay out a brick gas stove. A small brick stove for a summer residence with your own hands. Necessary tools, materials and fixtures for work

12.11.2019

Brick stoves for the home are often the only way to equip the heating of the house, in the country or in the cottage. In brick heating stoves, the maximum efficiency reaches 85%: this is a consequence of the fact that their design does not include "heat consumers" that take a lot of heat energy.

Brick ovens for the home

Brick heating stoves are quite simply manufactured and operated. The reason for these qualities is a narrow scope - for space heating (they are not intended for cooking, etc.).

Brick ovens for the home are also sometimes called "Dutch".

Brick ovens for the home

In houses and cottages, "Dutch women" are most often used, in which the thickness of the walls is equal to half a brick. If you heat such stoves from one to two times during the day, you can easily provide comfortable temperature conditions in a medium-sized room.

Taking into account the dimensions of heating furnaces, they use two main methods of smoke circulation:

in the "Dutch" of small size, where the firebox and the furnace itself have common walls, the location of the bell-type smoke channels is at the top;
for large furnaces, a combined smoke circulation system is used, in which the location of the smoke channels is carried out from the sides of the firebox and on top of it.

Dutch stove for a corner house

Another type of heating stoves - "Dutch" corner type. Since they have angular shape, then these stoves are characterized by the fact that they take up less space, which allows you to significantly increase the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe room by installing the stove in a corner.

Corner brick ovens are often installed because it is not possible to make a rectangular foundation.
To heat a 2-storey house or cottage, they use two-tier brick heating stoves. On each floor, an autonomous stove is installed, which has its own firebox.

The structure of modern heating furnaces includes a grate. With the help of this solution, it became possible to deliver oxygen to the place of combustion of firewood, in the volumes that are necessary to ensure combustion. This is the reason that the combustion of fuel occurs at an intense pace, and with more uniformity. New smoke exhaust systems provide an opportunity to reduce the length of smoke channels. The smoke enters the stove chimney before being cooled down by the excess air.

The above has made it possible to make modern heating stoves more compact, reduce the time spent on the furnace, and also improve efficiency.

The scheme of laying a stove for a house is the first thing a person who decides to equip heating with a stove in his home will need. In this material, we will consider what schemes for laying home brick ovens exist, what are their features and differences.

Laying a stone stove can be done in the following ways:

1. undercut;
2. with empty seams;

When arranging the stove according to the first method, plastering the stove is not required, since all joints are filled with mortar. The wall thickness of the kiln determines the way the bricks are laid. The walls are laid out with a thickness of one brick, and half a brick. Sometimes, you can find masonry in 3.4 bricks.
For work on the arrangement of the furnace, it is imperative to use oven bricks. It is also called "red brick", full-bodied. Under no circumstances use bricks that were taken from any dismantled building, expanded clay blocks or slotted bricks.

Laying the first row is done simply with a brick, without using a mortar. The brick is leveled, the front wall is determined, the places where all the doors will be located. These operations can be called the last "estimate". When these actions are performed, the bricks lie down with the mortar.

After that, begin to lay the corners. The next stage, according to the advice of experts, is the arrangement of the contour of the entire stove. Using plumb lines, a twine is stretched from the ceiling to the corners of the stove. With the help of these vertical lines, you can easily navigate during the work.

Given the model of the stove you have chosen, you should determine the areas in which they will be located: a blower, a combustion chamber, an ash pan. The door under the blower is installed when the third row of bricks is laid out, after one row an ash pan is laid out.

After that, there is an arrangement of the firebox. Each door is attached with burnt wire. When you get to laying out the vault, you will need to cut the bricks. A calculation will be required to ensure a good docking of the bricks with each other. The laying of the vault begins after the second row of bricks is laid after the firebox door.

For lining the combustion chamber, special refractory bricks are used. Since the facing brick and masonry brick have different temperature characteristics, the installation of the lining to the furnace itself should not be rigid. During the installation of the chimney pipe, care should be taken to equip a special valve, the adjustment of which should be carried out smoothly and without difficulty.

Brick ovens for home - video instruction

How to make a brick oven with your own hands - an introduction to the topic of stoves for the home, as well as detailed instructions with drawings and step by step description, helpful tips.

Classification by intended use

Heating. Such furnaces are used only for space heating as the only or additional heater. Heating stoves circulate and heat the air.
Heating and cooking. Such stoves can be used both for heating the room and for cooking instead of a stove.

Classification depending on the design

Direct-flow.

The principle of operation of such furnaces is as follows: air moves into the blower, goes up and, bypassing the grate, exits through the pipe.

Cons of once-through furnaces:

Low efficiency, due to the fact that along with cold air, warm air leaves the furnace, which could still be used to heat the room.

Pros:

Due to the fact that such stoves are made of brick, which holds heat well, the room warms up evenly and retains heat.

Channel.

This type of furnace is an advanced direct-flow furnace. That is, due to the many channels, warm air does not immediately go into the pipe, but, following them, warms up the room. When installing channel furnaces, one should take into account the linear dependence of the efficiency on the length and number of channels.

Bell-type.

Such stoves are used to retain heat in the room. Warm air, in accordance with the laws of physics, tends upward, where the cap holds it. Cooling down, the air currents become heavier and fall down. And, since cold air is no longer needed, it exits through the tuck.

Advantages of bell-type furnaces:

They provide uniform heating of the room due to their design.
Soot can be easily removed, as it accumulates in one place - under the hood.

Classification according to material

brick

Pros:

Autonomy. That is, once "refueling" the oven, you can not worry about it for a long time.
Heat retention. Brick buildings do not conduct heat well, so it stays in them for a long time.

Minuses:

They warm up for a long time.

Cast iron

Pros:

Easy to install, no foundation required.
Not fire hazardous.
Compact.
Heat up quickly.
Huge selection of stoves according to external data.
No additional cladding required.
There are automatic cast iron stoves which independently regulate the temperature.
High efficiency.
Performance is relatively less dependent on the amount of fuel.
Low price.

Minuses:

They cool quite quickly and require additional heating.

Preparatory work, necessary materials and tools for work

How to build a stove with your own hands? Consider preparation:

Foundation. If the furnace is calculated large (more than 500 bricks), then you need to build an additional foundation for it. If the oven is small, then this is not necessary.
Thermal insulation is mandatory for all types of stoves: both large and small.
Chimney. In no case should the chimney be adjacent to the beams on the ceiling. Also, the distance between it and all beams should be approximately the same.
Pipe. The protrusion of the pipe must necessarily be half a meter above the roof, but no further than one and a half.
Furnace location. The place should be chosen in accordance with the data on the pipe and chimney, that is, take into account what will be above the stove.

If these points are taken into account, then there are a few more tips:

It is better to position the stove so that it heats as many rooms as possible. For example, if the house has several neighboring rooms, it is better to place the stove not in one of them, but between them so that it heats everything.
If you need to heat one room, then it is better to place the stove closer to the wall, but not back to back.

Tools and materials

Materials:

Clay (for making masonry mortar).
Sand.
Brick. Red fireproof. Fireclay.
Pipe.
Gravel.
Wood.
Cement.
Ruberoid.
Grate grate.
Angle steel.
Roofing steel.
Wire.
Nails.
Steam valve.
Oven.
Doors (for the cooking chamber, blower, furnace).
Cast iron tiles.

Instruments:

Furnace hammer.
Ruler.
Master OK.
Pick.
Square.
Plumb.
Level.

Design and drawings.

How to build a stove with your own hands? There are main types of structures:

Pros:

Efficiency can reach 80 percent.
It keeps heat for a very long time, in some cases - two days.
The firebox surrounds the fire from all sides and reduces the fire hazard level of the structure.

Minuses:

Big size.
Weighs a lot.
Long warm up.
After the break, a daily heating is required.
It has the most complex design of all possible types of furnaces.

The Russian stove is suitable as a permanent source of heat, it will completely replace and even surpass the stove, it can even serve as a bed, but such a stove has huge dimensions, and its installation should be justified.

The oven is Dutch.

Belongs to the channel type.

Pros:

simple masonry
It takes up relatively little space, as it has an elongated shape.
Heats up quickly.
Weighs relatively little.
Allows cooking.
It does not need to be heated regularly to maintain performance.

Minuses:

Cools down quickly.
Low efficiency.

It turns out that the “Dutch” stove is not suitable as the main source of heat and will not be able to heat a large room. But such a stove is convenient for small rooms and occasional use.

Plain rectangular.

Pros:

Doesn't take up much space.
Simple construction.
Low prices for material and fuel.

Minuses:

Average efficiency.
Doesn't keep warm for very long.

A conventional rectangular oven is an average option that is suitable for standard heating of a not very large room.

The oven is Swedish.

Belongs to the heating and cooking type.

Pros:

Allows cooking.
High efficiency.
Quick warm up.
Saves fuel.
Relatively small size.
Exist modern options with oven, hob, place to dry clothes.

Minuses:

A booster is required.
It has a difficult masonry for a beginner.

The Swede stove is suitable as the main source of heat in the room, can completely replace the stove and has many design options, but it is difficult to assemble.

Pros:

Very low fire hazard.
Aesthetic.
High efficiency.
Heat the room evenly.

A stove with a fireplace is suitable both for decorating a house and for targeted use as a heater.

Blueprints

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's draw the drawings first. In order to draw up drawings, you need to know what must be included in the composition of the furnace.

Foundation.
Frame.
Chimney.

The furnace consists of the following levels:

Foundation
Butovaya masonry.
Bookmark depth.
Waterproofing.
Furnace array.

Array Composition:

Six.
Undercoat.
Underbay.
Dushnik.
Cover.
Gate valve.
Half door.

Pipe Composition:

Overlap.
Cutting.
Insulation.
Otter.
head.
Metal cap.
Pipe stand.
A metal sheet.
Pipe neck.

Orders - a detailed scheme for laying a brick oven.

How to build a stove with your own hands? Let's consider how to implement it using the example of a Russian stove.
Row number..

Designed for foundation waterproofing. Lay beveled bricks and ¾. Use during laying cement-sand mortar.
The second row is the basis for the walls of the care zone.
The third row is the walls of the guardianship (3/4 brick).
The fourth row is a support support.
The fifth row is located at the corners in order to create an arch support. Also use this row for laying out the oven.
The sixth row is laid out according to a wooden template, which will be a temporary vault of guardianship.
A row for the arch begins to be laid from the edges to the middle. The central brick is driven in with a mallet to ensure strength. Also, bricks should be laid as close to each other as possible, and brick fragments should be placed in the openings between them.
The walls of the mantle are made of bricks from this row.
The walls of the stove and the walls of the cold stove are laid out in this row.
The final row for guardianship. Between the bricks fill the gaps with sand, for the sake of insulation.
Strengthening the overlap of the guardianship with the addition of beveled bricks.
The use of clay-sand cement begins. Shet's masonry. The brick should lie flat, but then you still need to sand it.
The bricks of this row will become the hearth and the cooking chamber. Additional installation mouth arcs.
The walls of the hearth and the crucible.
The walls of the hearth and the crucible.
The walls of the hearth and the crucible.
Fold up the supports for the arch of the cooking chamber.
It is made up of refractory bricks with a vault.
Six walls.
Six walls. Fill gaps with sand.
Masonry furnace, the beginning of the samovar.
Cover end. Installing a showerhead.
Channels of the samovar and overtubes.
The same channels.
Additional channel for the view.
The same channels.
Half door installation.
Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
Ligation of sutures and the same channels.
Connection of a pipe and a ventilator.
Valve installation.
Pipe laying.

33+ pipe laying.

How to build a do-it-yourself oven: a description of the process.

Lay the foundation of.
Lay the first row (along the cord).
Lay the next rows with a level.
Control the corners with body kits.
From rows 1 to 11, use a cement-sand mortar, then a clay-sand mortar.
The output of the pipe is carried out at the end of all work.

How to build a do-it-yourself brick oven video:

Follow the instructions carefully during installation.
Choose a drawing that suits you.
Place the stove not close to the walls, but not in the center of the room (unless, of course, it is traditional Russian).
When transporting refractory bricks, be careful as they are very fragile.
The side walls of the oven are the warmest, so place them closer to the places that need to be thoroughly heated.
Do not forget about automated ovens that will control the temperature.

The laying of any of the stoves discussed above will not cause difficulties with careful planning and perseverance. Good luck!

Stove heating country houses Today it is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that a simple brick stove can create, even made by your own hands. Often it is installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, trying to get a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models brick ovens and share the secrets of the oven craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick oven is not only a functional heating device, but also stylish element interior

Probably, there is no such person who would not like a living hearth with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But the good old brick oven will be able to please not only with this, but also with the ability to create the most favorable atmosphere for health. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick emits water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when it cools. The stove, as it were, “breathes”, thanks to which it is installed in the room optimal humidity. It is also important that the heat becomes already at a temperature of 18–19 ° C, while when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 ° C. In addition, being made of clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that during the operation of the heater, you can not worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, all of them are similar in terms of arrangement of the furnace and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary furnace of this type has:

foundation, which serves as the base of the heater and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
a furnace that simultaneously acts as a firebox and a combustion chamber;
a grate that allows for the lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to adjust the intensity of fuel combustion;
ash chamber, which facilitates the cleaning of the furnace;
a chimney that creates the necessary draft and emits exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Design brick oven channel type

In addition to their main purpose, wood-burning heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional place of rest. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, barbecue or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to a visual and image component.

The advantages of brick ovens include:

rapid heating of the surface;
the possibility of using several types of fuel;
low operating costs;
the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heater is eliminated;
especially soft, comfortable warmth;
the air in the room is not dehydrated;
ample opportunities in terms of interior decoration.

The units under consideration also have disadvantages. The most significant of these is the potential danger of poisoning. carbon monoxide, which appears in case of improper operation. Another - large dimensions and weight. That, perhaps, is all. As you can see, equipment of this type has solid advantages and the almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, however, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick ovens can be divided into several types:

heating devices;
cooking units;
combined ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that you can fold yourself. In order not to consider the whole variety of stationary units, let's focus on the most popular options:

Dutch stoves. Thanks to channel design they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in the mode of slow burning or smoldering, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the "Dutch" rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly because of the low cost and ease of construction.
The classic "Dutch" is an extremely compact structure
Swedish wood stoves have a chamber-channel layout, which allows you to increase the efficiency up to 50%. Just like the "Dutch", the "Swedes" take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of this type of heat generators.
The Swedish stove will delight its owner high efficiency and functionality
have a unique layout, due to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the features of operation. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the oven. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.
The Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but it will require a lot of space for installation.
Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that contributes to the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A feature of the "blacksmiths" is an extremely clean "exhaust" and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on caring for the heater. As for the minuses, they include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the latter disadvantage is compensated by the fact that much less brick is required for the construction of a “cap” than for any other furnace.
Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and oven

Step-by-step instructions for laying the Kuznetsov stove with orders can be found in our next article:.

Having considered everything possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heater that can meet all the requirements for it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first is not difficult, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you more about how to choose a stove in accordance with the type of building.

House designed for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then the best option than "Swede" or "cap" can not be found. In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily supplemented with other elements - a hob, a water circuit, an oven, drying niches or a bench. If the functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a “Dutch woman” that heats several adjacent rooms is a good option.
Country house "weekend" or cottage. Since these buildings involve irregular habitation, it will be enough to install a small heater equipped with a hob. Fireplace stoves with an open hearth are ideal, as they can be used to heat the room in the shortest possible time. Such an advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the air temperature in the room drops to sub-zero temperatures.
oven in country house with water or other type of heating. In this case, the heater serves to create a special atmosphere. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or a unit with a firebox, a fireplace and a stove bench.
Bath heater. For this case, the simplest stove-heater is suitable, in which a container is built in to obtain hot water. If the bath is attached to the house, then instead of the tank, you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
Furnaces for open areas. Most often, such heaters are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

The barbecue oven will decorate the site and fill the resting place with functionality

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heater to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of the main parameters

Before choosing a working project of a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat transfer of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power taken from one square meter unit surface (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take a value of 0.5 kW / sq. m, and if necessary, intensive heating, which occurs during severe cooling - up to 0.76 kW / sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of the furnace, only those of its surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in the "Dutch" sections of the walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the flue, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, already these values are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick ovens

Sauna stove
Fireplace stove Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the furnace are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel bookmark. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2-3 times greater than the obtained value, which will allow the furnace to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the furnace part, it must be taken into account that the maximum bookmark should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the furnace and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the furnace. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various quadratures.

Table of calculations of the main elements of a brick oven

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove will be fired with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood stoves do not require much traction, so the best shape smoke channel will be a rectangle. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross section of the blower should not exceed the area of \u200b\u200bits flue, while all values \u200b\u200bare adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since precise design requires a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. Nevertheless, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use the average values for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
5 - 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
5 - 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

The recommended sizes are the minimum. And yet, there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will fall into the furnace through a too wide chimney. Backflow, or “whistling” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only to degrade performance, but also to more serious problems.

To calculate the amount required material it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be built up with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often, such events are carried out with the changed aerodynamics of the area. For example, after growing trees or erecting taller buildings in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

selection of tools and necessary materials;
determination of the optimal place for mounting the heater;
arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
production of oven bricks (if necessary) and preparation of masonry mortar.

Necessary materials and tools

Stovemaker's tools

For laying a brick oven you will need:

Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
Panicle for mopping laid rows.
Corner, plumb and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
Pliers.
Rubber hammer (mallet).
Trowel (trowel).
Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
Lead scribbler.
Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
Stitching.
Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
Sieve.
Bulgarian (angle grinder) with a circle on the stone.

Despite the fact that brick ovens differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains almost unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

Brick - red, silicate, refractory and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
Building mixture for laying furnaces. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
A set of furnace castings - blower, furnace and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
Grate.
Wire for fixing cast iron.
Asbestos or basalt cord.
Steel strips and corners for arranging ceilings and niches.
Heat-resistant plates for protective thermal insulation.

Chamotte brick SHB No. 22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight, which requires a major foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for the construction of the foundation:

Sand.
Rubble.
Reinforcement mesh.
Boards and nails for the construction of formwork.
Cement.
Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides exterior finish walls, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for these works.

Features of choosing a place for installing a heater

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available area in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is located in the center of the house, orienting the firebox and hob to the kitchen, and the other faces to the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits right choice places.

The right choice of location is able to solve the problem of heating all the premises of a country house

When installing a heater, one should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum allowable distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances, which are determined by the current SNiP:

from brick chimney there must be at least 130 mm of free space to the wooden elements of the floor or roof. If uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe, then the gap is increased to 250 mm;
between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the furnace leave a gap of at least 100 mm;
the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen, the minimum clearance is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
a gap of at least 0.35 m must be left from the ceiling to the ceiling of the furnace. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Foundation construction

It is best if the base of the brick oven is formed simultaneously with the common house foundation. At the same time, both structures are performed separately, otherwise the subsidence of the walls of the building will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, and even damage to the heater. If the stove will be built in a finished house, then the first thing they pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the elements of the roof covering, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they start marking and building the foundation.

Given the weight of the stove, the foundation must be solid.

If wooden floors are equipped in the house, then they are cut out at the place where the furnace is installed, departing from the outer contour of 10–15 cm. After that, they dig a foundation pit, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For the middle lane, it is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After that, its bottom is covered with a 15-cm layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is poured, which is also carefully rammed. After that, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the crate boards are attached. To prevent the leakage of cement milk through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with a plastic film. At a distance of 5-10 cm from the floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed, for which they use both metal rods hammered into the bottom of the pit and brick fragments.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

Mixing cement M-400, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the foundation surface is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the base of the furnace should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours have passed, necessary for the preliminary setting of the solution, the structure is covered with a film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying the brick, the foundation must be waterproofed with a roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Solution preparation

Now, when you can find ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves in the distribution network, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All that is required for this is to mix the components with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. Nevertheless, you can make a masonry mortar on your own - this will additionally save. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the building.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the last component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After that, balls with a diameter of 5-6 cm are rolled out of the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition the one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third is considered.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower the spatula into the prepared mixture. Adhesion of the solution less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is required to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates the fat content of the mixture, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

Clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If it is required to increase its fat content, then the grinding method is used, which consists in settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly fold a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Deciding on the type of heater, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything for the start of construction is only half the battle. In order to properly fold the oven, it is necessary to find the layout of the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared some of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason they do not suit you, then you can search turnkey solutions on the Web or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Schemes for ordering furnaces in the photo

Orders of the Swedish oven Orders of the "Dutch" Orders of the Russian oven
Orders of the heating and cooking furnace
Orders of the stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace

Today we propose to fold a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite the apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove-makers and give the necessary recommendations during the construction process.

Stove orders with a hob and niches for drying

On the presented ordering scheme, you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish stove. We recommend first laying out the structure dry, without the use of mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Further work is done in this order:

To the floor level, the bricks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar solid. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry in terms of level and plumb. From the careful execution of the work depends on how smooth and stable the oven will be.
The first row of the furnace body begins to form a blowing chamber.
Installing a blower door
Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in masonry joints. To prevent displacement and overturning of the door, it is temporarily supported by bricks.
In the fourth row, two channels are brought out to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.
The grate is not attached in any other way than by very precise laying.
In the fifth row, a grate is installed. Correctly laying the cast iron will help the recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is laid out exclusively with refractory bricks.
In the furnace, the grate is laid on a refractory brick
Before laying the sixth row, a furnace door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden lath.
Furnace door installation
Starting from the seventh row, they begin to equip the gas ducts of the furnace. The vertical walls of the firebox are laid out with fireclay bricks installed on the edge.
To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber with a layer of basalt cardboard.

Laying vertical channels
Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected in the bricks with which the furnace door will overlap. Thanks to this, the design will look even and aesthetically pleasing. Here, the cast-iron part is finally fixed, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.
For an exact fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place
In the 11th row, on the upper opening of the fuel chamber, hob. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.
The furnace is separated from external walls basalt cardboard or other refractory material
From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
Before overlapping the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as a support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
In the 20th row, they equip a horizontal channel and a door for cleaning soot and soot, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
The masonry of the 22nd row covers the door.
On the 23rd row, the horizontal gas duct is covered. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
Before laying the 24th row above drying chamber lay steel strips.
From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the oven niche is blocked.
In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical gas ducts. To do this, first mount their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.
Installation of furnace valves
From the 31st to the 35th row lay out the transition section of the chimney.
From the 36th to the 38th row, fluff is constructed.

In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is isolated from the ceiling non-combustible materials. For this, both mineral heaters and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

Here's a beauty you can fold with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Earlier, we considered how oven doors are mounted and fixed. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Mounting Features oven

If the design of the furnace provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes the largest possible surface area. Most often, these conditions correspond to the section of the transition from the furnace to the heat exchanger. Preliminarily, metal corners are laid on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the places of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed with basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

The hot water boiler or liquid heat exchanger is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place can be located at the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the gas flue or under the hood of non-revolving units. If you plan to use the hob and water heater at the same time, then it upper part performed in the form of transverse metal pipes, which are welded into side tanks made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5-15 mm is left between the water-heating boiler and the furnace walls. Of course, it is necessary to foresee how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For channel and chamber furnaces, this can be done through the opening of the firebox, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operation and cleaning of the furnace

It is impossible to immediately test the furnace at maximum modes; it is necessary to wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heater in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one to two weeks. If it becomes necessary to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the oven is heated for 5-7 days 2-3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensate on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after that, the stove is not heated "to the fullest." Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with firewood, then it is not necessary to clean it from ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is freed from ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, then this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For this purpose, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After that, the soot is raked out of the gas ducts with a metal scoop and a poker.

Choosing the right fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood is hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen practically do not leave soot. By the way, experienced stove-makers recommend that every tenth firebox be carried out with aspen logs, arguing that this helps to remove soot from the channels and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning it using flammable liquids, smoke powder (yes, you can find such “useful” tips), naphthalene, etc. A good effect from this can hardly be achieved, but nearby buildings and your own health can cause significant damage.

It often causes difficulties to kindle the stove after a long cooling, for example, in a cottage or in a country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming hard-to-remove gas plugs. A proven method will help resume cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, lay it closer to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the heater's performance.

You will also need material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick ovens:.

Video: Compact brick oven of the original design

A brick oven will be able to create a particularly warm atmosphere in the room, it will become a highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Folding the unit is within the power of not only experienced craftsmen, but also green beginners. Of course, one must be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heater will repay not only cozy warmth and comfort, but also safe operation for many years of operation.

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

Do-it-yourself brickwork for heating a house and a summer residence

To build a stove for a brick house with your own hands is quite within the power of even a novice bricklayer. Due to the abundance and availability of information, it is enough just to choose the appropriate design with order and detailed description all stages of work, be patient and do the masonry carefully and carefully. Let us consider in detail how to build a brick oven with your own hands.

The furnace starts from the foundation

Even a small do-it-yourself brick oven laid out in a country house or in a bathhouse weighs more than a ton. Therefore, you need to put it not on the floor, but on your own foundation.

The upper cut of the foundation coincides with the level of the subfloor. Care must be taken to ensure that the top plane is perfectly horizontal. This will avoid skewing the masonry and greatly simplify the work of the stove-setter.

Two layers of roofing material, glassine or a durable building film are laid on the foundation for waterproofing. A steel sheet and a layer of heat insulator are laid on top of the waterproofing (so that heat does not go into the foundation). On all this "pie" for the future brick oven, bricks of the first layer of masonry are laid with their own hands.

Preparation of mortar for oven masonry

Unlike ordinary wall, a do-it-yourself brick stove is built not on cement, but on clay-sand mortar. The compositions of mortars for fireclay and ceramic bricks are very different.

The solution for fireclay bricks is prepared on the basis of white kaolin or fireclay marl. Minerals are characterized by high refractoriness and withstand temperatures above 1500 degrees. Dry masonry mix for the preparation of refractory masonry mortar is usually purchased in retail chains.

The mortar for ceramic bricks is prepared on the basis of ordinary clay, which can be found in your area. Clay for ovens is also sold in many building supermarkets.

For 100 pcs. brick will need about 40 kg of clay. The proportions of clay and sand are determined by trial batches. This is done as follows:

Clay is soaked for a day in cold water.
The batch is divided into 5 parts and a quarter, half, three quarters or an equal weight part of sand is added to each, respectively.
All the resulting samples are kneaded again until completely homogeneous and allowed to stand for 3-4 hours to remove excess moisture.

We test samples:

roll them into sausages 1-1.5 cm thick and wrap around any round object with a diameter of 5 cm.
In the case when cracks of more than 2 mm have formed on the sample, the solution is not suitable.
With a crack depth of up to 2 mm, the solution is suitable for those parts of the furnace where the heating temperature does not exceed 300 degrees.
If the surface of the sample is not cracked or covered with a fine mesh, such a solution is quite suitable for making a do-it-yourself oven.

Since the cost of sand is much lower than the cost of good kiln clay, the essence of the samples is to determine the maximum possible proportion of filler in the solution.

Do-it-yourself brick oven for home video

Brick laying technology

The scheme of the furnace provided below is distinguished by its simplicity and very high availability of repetition with a high percentage of successful results. A do-it-yourself brick oven is small in size and is suitable as a heat source for one room or a small garden house. The area allotted for the furnace is only 0.4 square meters. m. A very small amount of brick is used for construction, so it has a very small weight.

The laying of the furnace begins with the first row. To ensure a perfectly horizontal plane, a thin layer of washed river or mountain sand can be poured under the brick. Sand will smooth out the difference in the thickness of the bricks, and at the same time will act as an additional heat insulator.

The basics of choosing a building material

The thickness of the mortar between the bricks should be 2-3 mm. A thicker seam quickly crumbles. For masonry, you need to choose the most even bricks with the same dimensions - since irregularities cannot be compensated for with mortar!

On the second row, we install the blower door. To compensate for thermal expansion, it is wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord. The door is fastened with steel wire fixed in the masonry. So that the wire does not interfere, grooves are cut out in the brick with a grinder under it.

The third row is laid out already from fireclay bricks. Grid-irons are placed on it after the clay has set.

The laying of the furnaces of the fourth row is laid on edge. If the grates do not fit into free space- the brick must be cut in place, providing gaps of 3 mm on all sides.

When laying a brick oven, it is important to know!

The rear "knock-out" brick is placed without mortar. It is needed to clean the channels.

On the fifth row, similarly to the blower, a furnace door is installed. The fifth row is laid out flat, and these protruding bricks play the role of an external heat exchanger.

The seventh - ninth rows are laid out flat again. Cast iron is laid over the ninth row. hob. Asbestos or fiberglass cord is also used for laying between metal and brick.

Application of cord for sealing masonry

Without a sealing cord, smoke will enter the room, and the clay solution will quickly crumble from the thermal expansion of the cast-iron stove.

The last three rows form a place for installing a light chimney. On the penultimate row, a metal valve is installed. It should also be separated from the stone with an asbestos cord.

After the masonry has completely dried, the "knock-out" brick is pulled out and construction debris is removed from the channel. So that the sand from under the stove does not spill out, a plinth is nailed along its perimeter.

Brick ovens for giving video

Choosing pipes for the chimney

Any metal or asbestos-cement pipe with a channel of about 200 square meters will serve as a chimney for this stove. cm, which corresponds to 11.5 cm of diameter for round section. The height of the upper edge of the pipe above the level of the grate of the combustion chamber is at least 4 m. The height of the part protruding above the roof is at least half a meter. If the stove smokes during the first starts, the pipe can be extended by 25-50 cm.

Finishing a brick oven

Do-it-yourself ready-made laying of the furnace is whitewashed on the outside with a simple chalk whitewash or thin plaster. Fatty milk can be added to the water as a binder. And ordinary blue will help prevent the appearance of yellowness.

If you decide how to fold a higher-level furnace, choose one of the available upgrade options:

lining with decorative facade bricks or stove tiles;
outer metal screen;
decorative stitching or painting of seams with heat-resistant paint.

Laying with bricks and tiles should be foreseen in advance, since during the construction process, the outer elements are tied with masonry. This work requires a lot of experience and it is better to entrust it to professional stove-makers. It is better to install a metal screen not close, but at some distance from the furnace body. Then it will play the role of an air convector, which will significantly increase the rate of heating the room.

Outcome

Knowing how to build a stove in a house with your own hands, you can provide affordable heating to any small room. The experience gained during the first construction will become the basis for further improvement of this sought-after skill.

The construction of complex variants of furnace structures is a painstaking process that requires great patience, knowledge, skills and financial costs. Therefore, if funds are available, it is recommended to use the help of professionals. And those who want to build a furnace with their own hands should study the advice of experts on choosing a competent project and high-quality equipment.

Performing accurate calculations and strict adherence to the laying scheme will allow you to get a reliable thermal unit and, with its further use, will provide protection against ignition and carbon monoxide poisoning. Therefore, any stove must meet the basic requirements - not to smoke, supply heat and guarantee fire safety. For beginners for construction, it is better to choose a simple model of the device in order to independently carry out high-quality laying of the furnace.

Construction tools and equipment

For installation work are used:

acute-angled and rectangular sledgehammers;
plumb;
brackets (mooring);
combined trowel;
a hammer;
rammers;
putty knife;
level, square and tape measure;
meter (folding);
seam liners, markings for openings, templates for channels;
brick and clay (red);
cement;
sand;
grate;
doors, stove (cast iron) and latches;
aluminum and steel fittings (corners and strips).

Procedure

1. First stage.

To verify the accuracy of the calculations, first lay the masonry according to the finished scheme of the unit, but without using the mixture. The furnace is mounted on a foundation that meets all the rules technical security. To do this, they dig a pit (depth 1 m), where sand is poured (layer 11 cm), and concrete is loaded from above. After that, on the hardened surface, following the instructions, a quadrangle of bricks is placed, which will serve as the basis for the furnace. Using the level, check the horizontal masonry. A couple of bricks are moistened with water so that they are easier to bond with the mortar, they are placed on the mixture and pressed down (slightly), and its excess is removed with a spatula and the further construction process is continued according to the same principle.

A roofing material (triple layer) is laid on the first level, which performs a waterproofing function. Before performing the 2nd row, a blower door for the oven, wrapped in wet asbestos cardboard, is attached with special brackets. The third level should consist of fireclay bricks, here a grate is placed above the blower. masonry building material on the 4th tier occurs on the rib. A chimney is built inside the furnace. On the back surface of the device, the masonry is made without a mixture so that its edges protrude slightly from the main row, which will facilitate the cleaning of the smoke passage hole from debris.

The firebox door is wrapped with an asbestos cord and fixed on the 5th tier with bricks (temporarily) and wire. The material at this level of masonry, as in the main part of the furnace, is located flat (along the contour of the previous layer). The edges of the sixth row of the device are hewn, the grate is fixed flush, and the bricks are placed on the edge. It is recommended to wipe the chimney with a damp cloth. Brick (at 7th level) is laid out flat, and on back wall ovens a couple of pieces are mounted on the edge. The furnace door is covered with the eighth tier of masonry.

2. Second stage.

Further, work on the furnace continues according to the finished scheme until the beginning of the twelfth row. On this tier, a cast iron slab is mounted on the mortar (with a slight shift back), and an asbestos cord runs along the perimeter of the masonry, which is covered with corners from above. The pans are supported by strips of steel inserted into the walls of the cooking chamber and strengthened from the fourteenth row, through the next 2, to the twentieth. On this tier are placed: a corner, a frame and an exhaust channel made of sheet iron. Before installing the chimney, the gap between its lining and the ceiling is filled with asbestos.

3. The third stage.

After making the thermal unit with your own hands, the chimney is cleaned, temporary bricks are removed and painting work begins. The oven surface is dried before plastering and lime whitewashing. A mixture of clay, asbestos, sand and cement is used as a coating. First, according to the instructions, a liquid layer of the composition is applied to the outside of the masonry, and after it dries, a denser layer is applied. Whitewash the stove with lime mortar and salt. Drying oil or oil dyes are not suitable for coating masonry, since when heated they emit vapors that are harmful to health.

1. When building a furnace with your own hands, strong and properly fired bricks should be used, with a smooth surface and without various damages, since its functioning and duration of use will depend on their quality. The strength of this material is determined independently. To do this, using a hammer, you need to break one brick, if it breaks up into large pieces, then it is suitable for use in the masonry process. In the area where the fire is made, a refractory type is used that can withstand strong heat.

2. Reliability furnace design depends on the optimal ratio of sand and clay in the solution. A composition with a plastic and thick consistency is considered to be of high quality.

3. The thickness of the seams - from 3 to 5 mm.

4. Pre-prepared recesses in the bricks, designed to install the grate, dampers and doors, provide the latter with a longer operation. The depth of the grooves must correspond to the thickness of the casting.

5. Bricks on the tiers of masonry are placed as close as possible to each other. During the construction of the furnace, the procedure is constantly checked against the finished scheme of the device, which allows you to control its exact observance.

6. The gap between the masonry and the floor is hidden by installing an iron pre-furnace sheet or a plinth. To protect the corners of the structure from possible damage, it is advised to attach protective devices to the frames (using bolts).

7. It is permissible to start operation 14 days after completion of installation work. Hardening of the unit is recommended to start with the burning of thin chips to prevent cracking. After the end of the furnace process, following the operating instructions, the chimney is closed with the help of valves.

Cost of materials and labor

Self-construction of the furnace is much cheaper compared to the services of a skilled worker. The minimum price for the work of the master starts from 25,000 rubles and is negotiated individually at the conclusion of the contract. Payment for work and the cost of masonry for different kinds furnaces are determined taking into account their volume, design features and location in the house. The purchase price of the building material and its quantity required for the construction of the selected type of structure, design and color scheme are the main indicators in determining the final payment. An important role is played by the types of cladding. Finishing with tiles costs 1200–2500 rubles per 1 m2 (excluding the amount for masonry equipment).

Average cost of building supplies:

The cost of a brick varies from 20 to 150 rubles per piece. The difference in prices is also present when buying castings and other masonry materials. If a door for a Russian-made firebox costs 400 rubles, then an imported one costs 4,000. One bag of ready-made mixture for building a stove (consumption for 35 bricks) is 400. The estimated price of masonry is determined only after a thorough study of the future design, taking all measurements.

During the construction of the stove, it may be necessary to purchase additional equipment. The cost calculation also takes into account the cost of delivery and unloading of masonry materials, which is assigned by carriers.

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