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Make a cage for rabbits from improvised material. Variants of self-made cages for rabbits. Overview of rabbit cage varieties

Breeding rabbits is a very profitable and not particularly difficult task. They don't need special care and unusual conditions of detention, which is why a couple of eared animals can be brought to your summer cottage.

A large number of novice farmers are engaged in raising rabbits. And first of all, what is worth getting is cages for domestic rabbits. They are not only purchased, but you yourself can easily make cages for rabbits with your own hands.

These eared animals do not need special conditions of detention. It is for this reason that cells do not have to be bought: they can be built with your own hands. Advantages of homemade houses:

Advantages of factory cages:

  1. Perfect design with necessary conditions for the life of domestic rabbits
  2. The building contains drinkers, trays, feeders and nests.
  3. They are constantly in the process of improvement, the designs become more complicated: by purchasing a factory cage, the farmer can be sure that this equipment is modern.

But the acquisition of ready-made cells enough expensive pleasure , while homemade cages for rabbits are budget.

Types of rabbit cages

With a serious desire to engage in the cultivation of rabbits, you need to build not one room, but several. To provide housing for rabbits, you need build a complex. It is installed as fresh air, and in the barn - it depends natural conditions region.

Drawings of cages for rabbits can be developed independently, and they can also be found on the Internet or in a magazine.

Cages for keeping males. Males should be placed in individual houses. This should be done in order to avoid fights, competition for food, and unplanned mating. The size of the cage should not interfere with the free movement of the rabbit. If the males live in cramped quarters, they will soon become lazy and obese. Such consequences can affect reproductive function: rabbits will not give birth.

Cells for keeping rabbits with cubs. Such cells should be spacious. They line up in one tier and consist of two compartments - this is the main and uterine. In order for the rabbits not to freeze in winter, you need to insulate the uterine compartment.

Cages for rearing rabbits. These cages will be populated with rabbits that have reached the age of 2-3 months and have not gained proper weight when fed with a rabbit. In order to give the female the opportunity to acquire new offspring, the grown-up rabbits are placed in a separate cage and fattened until they reach a suitable weight.

Breeding and keeping pets involves a large degree of responsibility of the breeder and requires strict adherence to certain rules. One of the most important is the creation of acceptable living conditions for the animal. They should be close to nature.

Rabbits have a high degree of resistance to various diseases. They are unpretentious to food and conditions of detention, easily multiply. But despite all this, animals need a properly organized home.

The construction of a pet house must be approached competently. This takes into account the number of animals, their sex composition and age.

What is needed for rabbit breeding?

To do at home, special cash costs are not required. It is necessary to have cages for animals, drinkers, containers for food. All this is easy to do with your own hands.

Harvesting hay and branches can be done in the summer. Root vegetables and vegetables are easy to harvest in your own garden. The main expense will be the vaccination of animals and the purchase of concentrated feed.

In each cage, same-sex animals of approximately the same age, weight and character should be placed. It is recommended to place adult animals and females with rabbits in one- and two-section cages.

The sizes of rabbit cages have standard indicators:

  • length - 100-120 cm;
  • height - 50 cm;
  • width - 70 cm.

For young rabbits, wooden cages covered with steel mesh are suitable. Their sizes correspond to the sizes of animals. For example, for 10 individuals, a cage with the same dimensions as indicated above will become acceptable, but its length should be 170 cm.

How to build a single tier cage?

Many are interested in how to make a rabbit cage with your own hands. Of course, if you have the right materials, this is not so difficult. The article presents drawings of rabbit cages. Recommendations are also given on the choice of materials for work.

For the outside in the cage system, double single-tiered rabbit cages are the most popular.

The length of such cells is 220-240 cm, and the width is 65 cm. The height of the wall in front is 35 cm. The roof should be with one slope, equipped with a visor protruding forward by 20 cm, and from the sides by 10 cm.

Two compartments for food are built in the cage. The floor is made of metal mesh. The size of the cells should be equal to 18x18 mm or 16x48 mm. The grid should be superimposed with a width of 2 cm, and the gap between them is 1.5-1.8 cm.

Do-it-yourself rabbit cages with the correct design should have a partition with a hole, the width of which is 17 cm and the height is 20 cm. It should be located between the nesting area and the feed compartment in order to prevent the rabbits from penetrating from the nest to the feed compartment. The manhole is constructed at a height of 10-15 cm from the floor.

From the front side, two mesh doors are hung on the cage, which lead to the feeding compartment, as well as two solid board doors leading to the nesting compartment. Feeders with a removable structure and drinkers should be hung on the doors leading to the feed.

For feeding with roughage, nurseries are installed between the departments. They are based on two wooden frames, on which a mesh is stretched. The size of the grid cells should be 20x50 mm. The lower ends of the frames are aligned, and the upper ends are moved apart to the sides of the feed compartment. The result is a V-shaped nursery for roughage.

What materials will be needed?

To build a single-tier cage for two individuals, the performer will need:

  • Plywood with an area of ​​2 m 2.
  • Metal mesh with mesh size 18x18 mm or welded mesh 16x48 mm (1.3 m 2).
  • Grid with cells 35x35 cm or 24x48 cm (0.6 m 2).

Production of bunk cages

The level of costs for the construction of a bunk cage for animals is not so high. This is because the design is simple. In addition, cash costs will pay off in the first months of use.

What materials will be needed?

To make a cage with two tiers, you will need:

  • Two wood fiber boards.
  • Bars measuring 60x100 mm (4 pcs.).
  • Picket fence strips (50 pcs.).
  • Roofing material 4x2 m in size for the construction of a pallet.
  • Nails.
  • Dye.

What equipment will be required?

  • Two deep bowls covered with enamel (their diameter should be 220 mm).
  • Manure collection tank (approx. 300 mm high).
  • A pair of VPI-03 (also used for household purposes, immersed in water).
  • Step down transformers 220x127 V (4 pcs. for 8 cells).
  • Five-liter polyethylene canisters (4 pcs.).

Cell design

Rabbit cages need to be arranged according to how the light will fall. The blank closed wall, where the nurseries and feeders are located, should face north. This protects the animals from the winds and cold.

The roof is constructed so that it overhangs 90 cm from the north, and 60 cm from the south. From the west and east, the roof should be on a par with the protruding beams.

Two-tiered rabbit cages contain a stand-frame, lower and upper tiers. You can also build a roof from a roof. As a rule, transparent or translucent material is used. You can also use ruberoid.

The tier on top is a jig, that is, it will serve as a place for rearing rabbits after the end of feeding with mother's milk. This room is made from different cells. One of them should be larger than the frame.

The jig is divided into two parts by means of a feed trough, which has outlets on both sides. A common canister drinker is also installed here. Each compartment should be equipped with a folding feeder for mixed fodder, nurseries for fresh and dry grass. They look like an opening door. A door adjoins the drinker.

The floor of the tier is horizontal. It can be based on slats of wood, which are located at an angle of 45º so that small rabbits cannot injure their paws. All walls and doors of the cage are made of lattice. The exception is the north side.

Below is the uterine tier. It consists of two compartments: nesting and walking. It may also include the same components that are present in the upper tier.

The nest compartment has a removable floor. It is located below the rest of the tiered area. A mother liquor will be placed in this compartment. Before the rabbit brings the babies, she will instinctively make her way into it herself.

The rest of the nest must be stationary. It is supplied with a wall with a manhole, overlapping with a valve. It is better to equip the door to the nest with hinges from below, so that when open it serves as a platform for the animal.

The walking compartment is provided with a floor of slats arranged perpendicularly. This provides structural rigidity. In the area for walking there is a canister drinker, a folding feeder and a bunker feeder for compound feed. Nursery on the rack of the back of the paddock. A door must also be installed for the drinker.

In the floor of the walking compartment, a window is constructed for the end of the conical shaft, which is fastened under the floor of the upper tier. The pitched shaft communicates with a bunker equipped with a removable door and a manure tank. Thus, the rabbit cages will be cleaned through special doors, which will also make the feed containers accessible. The containers themselves are located under the inclined grids of the feeders.

At the bottom of the cell frame is a compartment electrical equipment. In parallel, this place serves as a bunker for rabbits. It must be locked. For convenient loading of the feeders, it is necessary to build it folding outwards.

The design of the feeder for compound feed has a body with windows for rabbits, as well as a pallet. It is constructed from a mesh with small cells.

All folding components must be equipped with handles, hinges and latches, as well as, if necessary, mortise locks.

The side and front walls are tightened with a fine mesh, the working side can be closed with a mesh with large cells.

Mini-farm from bunk cages

To build a small farm based on two-tier cells, you do not need a lot of space. One cell occupies 1.4 m 2. If you build a farm of two rows and use eight cells with an opening between them of 70 cm (measured along the legs) and a passage of 110 cm, then the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe farm will be 25 m 2.

Each cage simultaneously contains up to 25 rabbits. A rabbit with a new offspring will sit in the lower part, and the previous offspring will sit in the upper part.

For a number of years, cages with two tiers have been used on experimental farms and have shown their high profitability and profitability. So their use is recommended to all farmers.

Making a family block - cages from three sections

Making rabbit cages with your own hands of this design is a more difficult task. But such family blocks are very convenient for breeding animals. The male lives in the central part, and the rabbits are on the sides.

Partitions made of wood between the cell compartments are equipped with manholes with plywood latches. They are designed for easy replanting of females to the male and returning them back to their compartment.

What materials are the cells made of?

The basis of the frame can be made up of bars. The walls on the sides, the compartment for the nest with doors and partitions are built from lining.

For the front wall, a metal mesh is used. An attic part is provided in the nesting compartments - this is a free space between the ceiling and the common roof, where female rabbits can rest.

An additional convenience is that the layout of the feeders and drinkers is thought out in such a way that they are not subject to contamination and can be filled from the outside.

Cages for rabbits designed by the breeder N. I. Zolotukhin

The well-known rabbit breeder N.I. Zolotukhin has been breeding these cute animals for several decades. Such rich experience helped him design a new cage for rabbits.

Features of the breeder's cells

  • The floor is solid. Its basis is slate or boards.
  • There are no pallets in the cages.
  • A narrow strip of mesh floor is located only along the rear walls of the structure.
  • The rear walls are set at an angle so that rabbit waste from the upper tiers does not fall on the rabbits in the lower tiers.
  • There are no special queen cells. The rabbit builds her own nest before giving birth.
  • Grain feeders are attached to the doors, which flip outward to fill.

The scheme of the rabbitry is presented below.

How to make cages for dwarf rabbits with your own hands?

If you want to have houses, then their cages are built in a different way. There are many in pet stores. different models. But you don't have to buy them. You can make your own pet cage and it won't take long.

The structure consists of two walls on the sides, the size of which is 70x70 cm. The back wall is attached in such a way that a gap is obtained under the cage. The back wall is 55 cm high and 100 cm long.

Meter rails are nailed to the bottom of the cage. A metal mesh is fixed on top of them.

The lid of the cage is made of mesh on hinges. It is provided with a handle. A pallet is installed under the cage.

How to choose a grid?

In the manufacture of rabbitries, of course, you will need a mesh. In order for the manufacturer to better understand which mesh choice will be optimal, we recommend using a number of tips.

Many people ask the question: is a galvanized mesh, steel or aluminum material suitable? It is better to opt for steel structure because it is durable.

To make a wooden cage with mesh doors and a floor, the mesh must be chosen carefully so that it does not injure the paws of the animals. Experienced breeders advise using it with small cells. Metal material is used. The mesh thickness is 2 mm, and the mesh size is 16x48 mm. For the construction of the side walls of the cage, a galvanized mesh is suitable.

For the construction of the door, any kind of mesh is used. It doesn't have to be welded. Wicker is also allowed.

In the warm season, animals can be kept in a cage fenced with a net. A wicker construction with a thickness of 1.2 mm is suitable for it.

In this article we will tell you how to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands ( step-by-step instruction). Creating cages with your own hands may well be carried out from improvised materials, such as unnecessary boards, pieces of plywood or chipboard, etc.

The design of the cages can vary greatly, but it is best to choose one that will not take much time to build and will be suitable and practical for feeding rabbits, inspecting and cleaning them.

Simple rabbit cage design

Most effective way rabbit breeding are Mikhailov's mini-farms, which can provide intensive rearing of rabbits with minimal cost time for the care of the animals by the farmer.

The design of Mikhailov's cells is very well thought out and it provides for automatic cleaning and provision of animals with food, water heating in drinking bowls, which is really important in the cold season, as well as heating the mother liquor in order to increase the percentage of survival in newborns in the winter.

In order to start breeding rabbits, you do not need any special costs: rabbit cages, drinkers, as well as feeders can be made independently, hay and branches can be prepared in the summer season, root crops and vegetables can be taken in your garden.


 Mikhailov cell design

The largest part of the costs will be spent on animal vaccination and feed concentration.

It is best to place adult rabbits and rabbits with rabbits in two-section cages. These dimensions are usually used as a guideline for building cages: a cage is one hundred and twenty centimeters long, a cage is fifty centimeters high, and a cage is seventy centimeters wide.

young growth

Young animals need to be kept in a large group cage, which, with its size, will correspond to the number of rabbits.

For example, for eight rabbits, a cage with a height and width as in the picture above is suitable. It is necessary to take into account the fact that in each cage it is necessary to place rabbits of the same sex, approximately the same age and weight.

Do-it-yourself rabbit cage step by step instructions:


First you need to make a frame from wooden beams, its height should be 55 centimeters, its length is 240 centimeters, the back is thirty-five centimeters, and the front is fifty-five centimeters;

It is necessary to provide for the presence of nesting compartments inside, where a queen cell for a rabbit will subsequently be inserted or a small house will be placed;

A partition with an opening for the passage of rabbits is placed between the nesting compartment and the stern compartment;

  • The roof is made on hinges so that, if necessary, it could rise;
  • In the nesting compartment, the door must be made solid, of wood, and
  • in the aft compartment, the doors are made of metal mesh with small cells;
  • the floor must be laid with slats, with a gap of one and a half centimeters;
  • in the nesting compartment, the wooden floor should be solid;
  • under the cage you need to install a pallet;
  • after making a cage for breeding rabbits, they need to be equipped from the inside: grain feeders are made, shelves and a nursery are installed;

If the rabbits are kept outdoors, the cages must be placed on bars so that they rise about seventy centimeters above the ground. This should keep the rabbits away from rodents and other animals.


This is how a step-by-step instruction for creating a cage for rabbits with your own hands looks like. Through simple materials and a small amount With the effort you put in, you can create your own rabbit farm and run a fairly successful farm.

There are special rules that should be taken into account when building a rabbitry, regardless of its size.

1. The size of the cage should be just such that the rabbits can move freely and do not interfere with each other to eat, sleep and especially play. If there is not enough space in the cage, then the rabbits will begin to be lazy, and this will have a very negative effect on them. It is possible that such individuals will not have offspring at all.

2. On three to four rabbits, it is necessary to allocate a separate space. However, it should be quite spacious. If a person decides to start breeding rabbits, one should keep the little rabbits with their mothers because they are in charge of feeding them.

3. One of the cages should always remain free, as not all rabbits reach the required size and weight. In order to fatten them to the desired size, they are simply placed and fattened separately, and this naturally requires a separate cage.

DIY rabbit cage video compilation

https://youtu.be/addXcSFhn8g

The cost of the simplest rabbit cage in all respects starts from 7,650 rubles (for Moscow and the region). But there is no certainty that a particular cage you like is optimal for keeping (or breeding) rabbits, given the features of the room (territory) in which it will be installed (or outside it), as well as the specifics of pet care.

That is why it is more expedient to assemble a cage for keeping rabbits with your own hands, according to your own drawings, especially since it is not very difficult, since, in principle, rabbits are unpretentious, and they do not need to create any “VIP conditions”. And with how to do everything right, we will figure it out together with the dear reader.

The very first question that should be asked is what kind of cell (and for what) is required? You may have to build not one, but several at once various designs, or even a complex, like a hostel. For those who do not yet have sufficient experience in the field of rabbit breeding, we will give a few general explanations. Without this, it will be difficult to choose the most suitable option.

Depending on the purpose, there are some differences in the device circuit and linear parameters.

For adults

  • Double.
  • Longline enclosures (as a rule, 2-3 levels).
  • "Mother". This design has a compartment for the mother rabbit, where she is isolated after feeding the young. Unfortunately, it is not uncommon for a parent to eat her offspring.


For young animals

Such cages are intended for rabbits who no longer need mother's milk and are able to feed on their own.

For "teenagers"

In such sections, young animals are kept from the age of 3 months. The most commonly used option, which can accommodate up to 2 - 3 individuals at the same time. Recommended dimensions (W x H, in "m") - 1.2 x 0.4. The length is selected based on the convenience of installation indoors (on the territory). For example, such an option.

Looking at the pictures, it becomes clear that any exact sizes, shapes, design features cells do not exist.

Step-by-step instruction

The drawing is drawn up arbitrarily, based on the specifics of keeping animals. But some recommendations are general and should be followed. Consider the phased construction of a cage for rabbits.

Choose a place for rabbitry

In principle, there are few requirements for placement.

  • After installing the cages, there should be enough space for the supervision and care of pets. And it is necessary, and regular. The peculiarity of rabbits is that they easily succumb to diseases, and the disease of one often takes the form of an epidemic, and almost all individuals die.
  • Most importantly, no drafts!


Decide on materials and drawing

  • All structural elements should not be traumatic and "cold" (the rabbit catches a cold easily). Basic materials - (frame) and metal grid(fencing).
  • If the floor is made with a slope, then the steepness is minimal so that the animals do not have difficulty moving (do not slip).
  • Jumping up for pets is harmful. Therefore, the maximum height of the sections is 35 - 40 cm.
  • The compartment should not be cramped. Based on this, the length is at least 0.8, the width is 0.45 m.
  • It is impossible to use paint and varnish compositions for processing wooden parts. The rabbit, like its "wild" relative, loves to gnaw on wood, and "chemistry" when it enters the animal's body can be fatal.

What to consider:

Features of "street" structures

  • It is better to mount the floor double, with additional insulation. In this case, the first tier is slatted so that waste does not accumulate in the box, but the second, lower one, is made solid.
  • Do not cover the roof with metal. It warms up in the sun, and rabbits are quite sensitive to temperature changes. And in stuffy conditions, they will behave extremely restlessly, only adding trouble to the owner.
  • The optimal solution is to place the cages not directly on the site (especially on the ground), but to provide racks (supports, legs), that is, to raise the structure above the ground. This will not only protect the animals from possible hypothermia, but also prevent the appearance of insects and other small animals in the sections.

On a note!

During operation, especially when placing the cage outdoors, the wood will begin to swell. To prevent the structure from deforming, a small gap should be provided between the door and the supporting frame.


Features of cages installed indoors

  • Wild rabbits are burrowing animals. In order for a pet to feel protected, the cage must be made in the form of a house, that is, as closed as possible from all sides. Mounting all the faces of the "box" from the grid alone, although easier (and cheaper), is hardly advisable.
  • To keep a pet in an apartment (residential building), a section of 40 x 70 (cm) is enough, since in the daytime the animal will still be outside it.

Probably, the given information is quite enough to take into account all the nuances of mounting the cage. Everything else is up to you, dear reader.

Almost every owner country house there is a small farm. Someone prefers to breed cattle, someone a bird, and someone likes to deal with fluffy and charming rabbits. But for any economy it is worth considering comfortable conditions of detention. If you opted for rabbits and decided to make cages for them with your own hands, you should decide in advance on the location of the cages, their size and internal content.

On your own personal plot cells with living creatures can be placed:

  • outdoors;
  • indoors, such as a barn.

All cages for rabbits, depending on their location and breeding method, are divided into three types:

  • year-round outdoor accommodation;
  • year-round maintenance indoors;
  • combined maintenance (in the summer in the open air, in the winter - in the barn).

Many breeders believe that the best option placement of cells is their arrangement in the open air. Such content has a positive effect on animals, contributes to the development of immunity to diseases, the presence of a beautiful and high-quality hairline. Farming in outdoor conditions increases the productivity of females, increases the number of rabbits in one litter and contributes to their endurance.

When choosing a place to install a cage, it is worth considering:

  • air humidity. It should vary between 60-75%. That is, the place should be chosen on a hill and away from water bodies;
  • exposure to direct sunlight, which negatively affects animals. It is better to place the cages under trees or behind an artificial fence;
  • the presence of drafts, which are common cause rabbit diseases. Air movement must not exceed 30 m/s. Don't forget about good ventilation in cells. Otherwise, the fumes will undermine the health of your pets.

street cages

All rabbit cages may differ in:

  • sizes;
  • structures;
  • manufacturing materials.

They are simple, bunk with additional amenities, such as heating. What kind of cage you need to build for your farm depends largely on the breed of rabbits, their size, the availability of building materials and personal preferences.

The advantages of arranging rabbitries on the street include:

  • the presence of a large space;
  • convenience in caring for animals;
  • the ability to build convenient and affordable designs.

For erection street cells you will need to prepare reliable materials. They must be resistant to moisture, frost and sudden changes in temperature.

Important: the cage for rabbits must protect animals from predators such as dogs, cats, foxes, rats.

To prevent your pets from being bothered by direct sunlight and precipitation, make a canopy with a large visor over the building. If you are an animal breeder all year round, you need to take care of the insulation of one of the parts of the cell. Despite the fact that these animals tolerate low temperature air, for them it is necessary to create a cozy and warm place where they can bask.

Important: special attention is paid to the insulation of queen cells and the department with small rabbits.

Cells placed indoors

Structures placed in sheds can be made from a single metal mesh fixed to wooden frame. The floor must be made of wood.

If you are raising rabbits indoors, it should be:

  • well plastered;
  • ventilated;
  • covered in winter time- at least 10 hours.

It would be nice if on the south side of the barn there was a window on the entire wall.

Combined breeding option for rabbits

For the combined version of breeding animals, mobile cages are most suitable. In the warm season, it will be convenient to take them out into the street, and in the cold season - to install them indoors.

If funds allow, two variants of cages can be made: one for the street, the other for the barn. But this is unlikely option is suitable those who breed a large number of animals.

Cell design and size

Cages for rabbits are single or multi-tiered. Depending on who they are intended for (kindergarten, young animals, adults), their design depends.

Single-tier and multi-tier structures

Single-tier cages are placed above the ground at a distance of 80 cm. The roof of the structures is covered with slate or metal sheet.

Important: if the cages are located on the street, it is better to cover them with slate, as the metal heats up very much, and these animals do not tolerate heat well.

For the convenience of caring for animals, it is better to make a pallet with a chute for easy cleaning. In single-tier structures, metal pallets are installed for pet waste.

Multi-tiered cages can consist of two or more tiers. Each tier contains the required number of sections. They can be made from bars, galvanized mesh and boards. These materials are suitable for both outdoor and indoor rabbitry construction.

Tiered items are often referred to as sheds. In them, the tiers are placed one above the other. This helps save free space. The ideal option are two-tier structures. They provide convenient care and monitoring of pets.

When building multi-tiered cages, there must be a space of at least 15 cm between each tier. Above each cage, it is necessary to install metal roof, and in the space between each tier - inclined ebbs. This is necessary so that the animal waste does not fall on the lower tiers, does not linger on the roof, but flows into drains specially arranged behind the cages.

Some prefer to use removable plastic pallets in cages. They are convenient and easy to use. Such pallets can be installed directly in the cages themselves, or on skids under the slatted floor.

Cells for okrol

In cages for kindling, it is necessary to install special cameras on the sides or provide a place for a mobile mother liquor. If you opted for a stationary department, then the removable floor, walls and ceiling are made solid. They must be well insulated so that young offspring do not die from cold and draft. In the rest of the cage, the floor can be made of metal mesh or wooden bars.

The mobile mother liquor is a completely closed box with entry hole. This box should have an additional side door so that the mother liquor can be conveniently cleaned and dried. This design is convenient in that it can be rearranged as needed in different cells. They are also much more convenient to change the bedding and clean up. The building is insulated for rounding with shavings or hay.

If you are expecting offspring in the cold winter, the mobile mother liquor should be placed on an electric heating pad to create comfortable conditions for the rabbit a few days before the addition.

In winter, it is almost impossible to do without heating the uterine department. If you do not have an electric heating pad, you can use an ordinary light bulb, which should be kept constantly on during this period. The light bulb must be placed in a compartment that is located behind the wall of the uterine chamber.

Attention: having opted for heating the mother liquor with an electric light bulb, take care of fire safety. The chamber in which the lamp will be located should first be sheathed with thin metal.

There is another method of heating this part of the cage using a heating cable for underfloor heating. It is fixed at the bottom of the mother liquor, and a removable floor panel is laid on top of it.

Important: giving preference to such heating, make sure that the cable is intact, without defects. Such a heating system can be connected to a thermostatic regulator. This will allow you to adjust the temperature in the uterine compartment, depending on the weather conditions.

If the cells are in a barn, it is better to use a mobile cell. Then it will be easier to ventilate and clean them on the street. If you decide to make a built-in uterine chamber, the floor in it must be removable.

In two-section single-tier cages, the length of each section should be at least 100-120 cm, and the depth should be 55-65 cm. The width of the built-in uterine chamber should be 35-40 cm.

Cages for young animals

Young rabbits are called rabbits, aged from three to five months. They are kept in groups of 8-20 pieces. The height of the walls of the cages should be at least 35 cm. total area calculated on the basis that one animal should be 0.25 square meters.

Multi-tiered cages for young animals are installed outdoors and rise from the ground by 75 cm. If the floor is made of wooden bars, it is recommended to install a metal mesh on top. Thus, you will protect the rabbits, who will gnaw at the tree and scratch it with their paws. For older rabbits, you can make a mesh floor.

AT winter period, cells with young growth must be well insulated. For this, hay or straw is used, laid 2 cm thick.

Cage for adult rabbits

Cages for adult rabbits of medium size should be 60-70 cm deep and 100 cm long. These are the minimum dimensions for comfortable breeding of animals. They can be made according to the same block structures. That is, in each block there are two cells separated by a wall.

For mating animals, it is worth considering combining two cages into one using a removable partition. For adult rabbits, the floor is recommended to be made of galvanized mesh.

Attention: adults must move freely around the cage. Their growth and development will depend on this.

Cage with aviary for walking

Cages with an aviary for walking are suitable for both young animals and rabbits of reproductive age. Such a design should consist of two separate compartments with a partition, a roof and a mesh enclosure. Two compartments are connected by a round or square entrance cut into back wall structures. Thanks to the convenient design, the animals move easily inside, which favors their proper development and growth.

The size of the cage with a paddock can be any. Well, if its depth will vary within 60-65 cm, and the depth of the enclosure - 80-100 cm. Such structures consist of single-tier blocks consisting of two separate cells. A mesh aviary is attached to the back of the cages if there is space.

Cages for giant rabbits

Since the giant breed belongs to large rabbits, the cages for them must also have the appropriate size. Giants grow to considerable sizes. Their length is 55-65 cm, and their weight varies from 5.5 to 7.5 kg. When building housing for large breeds, it is worth starting from the weight and height of animals.

For one adult, a cage is needed, with dimensions: 96 cm in length, 70 in depth, and 60-70 cm in height.

For young giants, housing can be a little easier. Eight animals need a cage with an area of ​​1.2 square meters. m. Its height must be at least 40 cm.

Important: giant rabbits have an impressive weight. Therefore, the bottom of the cells should first be strengthened. In the manufacture of a mesh floor, preference is given to a thick wire, 2 mm thick. To prevent the mesh from bending under the weight of the animals, it is necessary to fix the bars under it. If you plan to install plastic or rubber pallets in cages, it is better to make a solid field under them.

Cage for California rabbits

Californian rabbits are quite popular among breeders. They are absolutely unpretentious in care and resistant to severe frosts. Adult individuals reach a length of up to 50 cm, and their weight ranges from 4.5 to 5 kg. The cage for this breed should be 0.5 sq.m. Since the paws of this breed are covered with hard hair, the floor can be made slatted or mesh.

If you breed rabbits only for meat, they can be kept in a hole that is 200 by 200 cm in size and about a meter deep. The walls of the pit should be pre-strengthened with slate, and lay boards or a grid on the floor. For safety, a small fence and a roof are being built around the pit. This method of breeding animals is as close to natural as possible, and gives good results. Rabbits love to dig holes in the ground. At proper care, they will delight the owners with numerous offspring.

Making cells with your own hands

Having decided to build cozy houses for rabbits, it is necessary to decide in advance on the type of construction, its dimensions and materials of manufacture. You will need to prepare:

  • hacksaw;
  • a hammer;
  • corner;
  • plane;
  • screwdriver.

Any type of cage will consist of: frame, walls, floor, ceiling and doors. As a rule, in the construction of houses for these animals, a metal mesh or natural wood is used.

As for materials for construction, you should prepare:

  • large sheets of plywood;
  • slate;
  • nails and screws;
  • bars;
  • slats;
  • galvanized mesh.

For the manufacture of doors, you will need to additionally prepare curtains and latches.

Having chosen a tree as the main building material, it should be sanded and sanded in advance. All sharp edges are processed so that the animal does not get hurt. Since rabbits grind their teeth on wood, there should always be branches in the cages. Otherwise, they will simply gnaw their homes.

Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages

In addition to building cells, it is necessary to carefully consider their internal arrangement. Food and water should be provided to the animals in a comfortable way. Feeders can be purchased from ready-made in the store, and do it yourself.

Rabbits need daily in large numbers pure water. If you simply pour it into a plate, dirt and debris will get into it, or animals will constantly spill water. When choosing a drinker, you should decide on its:

  • manufacturing materials;
  • location;
  • volume;
  • construction type.

Attention: if the drinker is made of thin plastic, the animals will quickly gnaw through it. And in metal cans, the water will become cloudy and polluted.

Automatic drinkers

Automatic shelves are most often used on farms where there are a lot of living creatures. This design is quite simple and consists of: a bowl connected to a container. The bowl of water is always inside the cage, and the container is outside. It is easy to use and durable.

The principle of operation of this drinker is quite simple: as the water decreases from the bowl, a new portion from the container enters it.

Attention: making such a drinker with your own hands is quite difficult. It is easier to buy it ready-made in the store.

Nipple drinkers

Nipple designs are practical and comfortable. The liquid does not spill into them and remains in the tube until the animal begins to drink. The only drawback of such a product is that in the cold season the liquid can simply freeze in the tube.

Vacuum drinker

A vacuum drinking bowl can be easily built with your own hands from a simple plastic bottle. You can make such a drinker as follows:

  1. A bowl with a flat bottom should be fixed at a height of 10 cm from the floor on the cage in such a way that one half of it is inside the structure, and the other is outside.
  2. We take a simple plastic bottle one or two liters and fill it with water. We close the bottle with a lid, turn it upside down and place it on a bowl. We fasten the bottle to the cage with clamps or wire.
  3. Carefully unscrew the lid, and the bowl will automatically fill with water. As the animals drink water from the drinker, it will be replenished with new liquid up to a certain level.

Choke drinker

The throttle drinker works on the principle of a conventional washbasin. You can also make it yourself. To do this, you need to take a plastic bottle, make a small hole in the lid and attach a throttle. A rubber gasket can be used as a valve. It will hold the throttle well and block the hole in the cover.

The drinker is attached in a vertical position to the cage at a height of 30 cm from the floor.

Hanging drinker

A hanging drinker is also made from a bottle. It is suspended in a horizontal position on a wire, at a height of 30 cm from the floor. For the manufacture of this design in the bottle, it is necessary to make a cutout, 10 cm wide along the entire length, retreating only 5 cm from the bottom and lid of the product.

The hanging drinker is attached outside the cage - with a cut hole inward.

feeders

It is worth considering the design of feeders at the design stage of cage construction. You can feed rabbits with:

With the right approach to breeding rabbits, you can achieve high results. If the cages are built in accordance with all norms and requirements, and feeders, drinkers and queen cells are correctly located in them, your pets will feel as comfortable as possible, they will quickly develop and gain weight.