Insulation inside the building. Warming the house - from the inside of the house? Pros and cons of internal thermal insulation. Proper selection and installation of thermal insulation material

07.05.2020

Insulation of an apartment from the inside most often becomes necessary in houses with panel walls, since they have insufficient thickness, they quickly cool down, the heating system cannot fully cope with its tasks, and the temperature in the rooms drops. How to insulate a wall inside an apartment, and what methods and materials to use - this question confronts most homeowners in concrete high-rise buildings. External walls in such houses they become cold especially quickly, and often, due to temperature changes, they begin to dampen and become covered with mold.

Sometimes, when there is such an opportunity, the thermal insulation of the walls is carried out from the outside, as this — more effective method keeping warm. However, this option is very expensive due to the complexity of its implementation, and it is impossible to carry out such events on your own, without the use of special equipment, if the apartment is located above the first or second floor. Therefore, a decision is made to insulate the walls from the inside, to the detriment of the total usable area. But be that as it may, a warm apartment of a slightly smaller area is better than large cold rooms. Internal work may well be carried out with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists. The main thing is to choose right stuff and have the right tools.

If the apartment has equipment autonomous heating, then wall insulation will help save energy resources, which are very expensive today.

Disadvantages of internal insulation

Compared with the external thermal insulation of walls, the internal insulation of the apartment has its rather significant drawbacks:

An insulated wall does not accumulate or retain heat, and heat losses range from 8 to 15%.

With internal insulation, the “dew point” may be inside the insulation, which leads to dampness

The “dew point” for internal thermal insulation is between the insulation and the wall, sometimes inside the insulation layer. This leads to the formation of condensation and the appearance of mold colonies. .
An improperly insulated wall from the inside will freeze all the time, and this inevitably causes irreversible destructive processes in the thickness of the material over time.

Proper insulation

To prevent condensation from forming under the thermal insulation layer due to temperature changes in winter period, and also, as a consequence, mold spots did not appear on the walls, all technological recommendations for insulation must be carefully followed concrete walls from inside the apartment.

An important element in the structure of the thermal insulation "pie" is a high-quality vapor barrier. It should protect the insulation from moisture penetration, which will allow the entire structure to effectively perform its functions for a long time.

What work needs to be done to achieve the goal?

It is necessary to purchase a high quality vapor barrier film and waterproof tape to seal the seams on the connection of its sheets.
For the insulation layer, you need to choose a material that has low vapor permeability. It is desirable that this indicator be lower than the vapor permeability of the wall material. In this case, moisture evaporation will occur towards the street, and not inside the apartment.
When gluing the insulation, its surface is completely smeared with glue using spatula-comb, and it is pressed very tightly against the surface of the wall, so that even small cavities do not remain between them.
In order to avoid the occurrence of excessively high relative humidity inside the premises, they must be equipped with additional ventilation of a natural or forced type. For example, for this, valves are installed on the window frames, through which air will enter the room.

Next, you need to accurately calculate the required thickness of the insulation. It will depend on the average daily temperature in the region in winter time. The thickness of the thermal insulation material should not be less than those parameters that were obtained during the calculations, otherwise the steam-thermal balance will be violated.
Before installing the insulation system, the walls must be treated with special primers. They will "treat" the wall, will not allow mold colonies to form on it, and will also increase adhesion when gluing thermal insulation.
Installation of insulation can only be started after the wall has completely dried.
It is impossible to allow the formation of "cold bridges", which can nullify the entire insulation process. The risk of their occurrence is especially high at the junctions of walls and ceilings.

What heaters and how are they used

Cork is an excellent natural material for thermal insulation.

Such a thermal insulator is made in the form of plates or rolls from the bark of a special variety of oak - cork. Therefore, it is an environmentally friendly safe insulation, which is very important for interior decoration premises.

Using high quality material, you can solve three problems at once - this is noise and sound insulation, as well as decoration walls.

An important condition for the installation of cork coating is the evenness of the wall, therefore, before proceeding with its gluing, it is necessary to carefully prepare the surface. This process is carried out as follows:

The old coating is completely peeled off the wall.
Then the entire surface is treated, which will protect the wall from damage by fungus or mold.

The next step is to level the surface.
You can ennoble the walls with drywall, but in this case, the sheet must be completely smeared with waterproof glue or mounting foam, so that there are no voids under it. Drywall is firmly pressed against the wall and additionally fixed with anchors or plastic "fungi".
Cork material can be glued onto a dried wall. To do this, use a special glue designed for such purposes.

To positive qualities material, in addition to its environmental friendliness, low thermal conductivity and good sound absorption, include:

Ease of installation of cork wall covering while maintaining accuracy in work.
Aesthetically attractive respectable look.
Always warm and pleasant to the touch surface of the material.
A variety of release forms, textured patterns and shades.

Cork is not only an excellent thermal insulator. It will give the room a special decorative effect.

Cork insulation does not have a large thickness, therefore it does not make the area of the room smaller - this quality compares favorably with other thermal insulation materials.

Penofol

Penofol, in essence, is a rolled polyethylene foam with a thickness of 2 to 10 mm, on one side of which it is applied, which contributes to the reflection of heat into the room.

Penofol - foamed polyethylene with a foil coating

Before its installation, the surface is prepared in the same way as for a cork coating.
Penofol can be fixed to even walls with the help of construction double-sided tape. Under any circumstances, the material is placed with the foil side into the room. This creates a kind of thermos for efficient heat retention.
stripes penofol are laid end to end. Between themselves, they are glued with a special adhesive tape, which also has a foil-coated reflective surface, since the entire coating must be airtight.

On top of the penofol fixed to the wall, a crate of slats, bars or galvanized metal profiles is installed. This frame with a tanet base for mounting lining or wall cladding drywall sheets. The plasterboard surface can subsequently be covered with plaster, wallpapered, or carefully puttied and sanded, and then painted.
It is very important when installing drywall or lining on the top and bottom of the structure to leave a gap that will serve vent hole for air circulation so that moisture does not accumulate.

Despite its small thickness, penofol is an excellent heat and sound insulator. It is used as a separate insulation, but it can also be used in combination with other materials. It attracts with the simplicity and speed of laying on walls, floors or ceilings, as well as with a long service life.

Video: insulation of internal walls with foil material

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

When choosing a material for insulating a dwelling from the inside, you must first examine all the surfaces of the walls on which thermal insulation will be installed. If the wall is dry and there are no mold spots on it, then you can start preparing the surface and purchase insulation material. It is strictly forbidden to carry out such work on an unprepared basis. Not only will such insulation not give the desired effect - you can thoroughly spoil the apartment atmosphere, make it damp, unhealthy, since spores of many types of mold or fungus are extremely dangerous for people's health, especially for those suffering from chronic respiratory diseases or a predisposition to allergic reactions. .

In general, any of the apartment methods presented in the publication from the inside will not require any complex additional equipment, and this technological process can be carried out independently.

Properly insulated walls of the house will make life in it comfortable, and heating bills will be minimal. There is a wide variety of thermal insulation materials that differ in their thermal conductivity, installation method and price. Consider the most popular ways of warming private houses.

Thermal insulation materials

In total there are many types. Starting from the well-known glass wool and ending with a modern heat-insulating mortar, which is applied like paint.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is made from fibers of inorganic materials such as dolomite, basalt, quartz, broken glass, diabase, etc. To create it, the material is first melted and then placed in a centrifuge, where it is stretched into thin fibers and settles in a special chamber. The resulting mass is a chaotic interlacing of fibers, which is then molded from it thermal insulation mats and plates.

Properties of mineral wool:

has low thermal conductivity;
is a non-combustible material;
has high compressive strength and no less high tensile strength;
excellent soundproof qualities;
resistance to temperature changes;
environmental friendliness;
ease of installation.

Good thermal insulation properties of the insulation are due to the structure of the material, in which the number of air channels is 95%. Mineral wool belongs to the class non-combustible materials(capable of withstanding temperatures up to 700 degrees) and its use is allowed not only in private homes, but also in public buildings. Does not lose its operational properties for several decades.

Most opponents of the use of mineral wool as a wall insulation explain their position by the fact that the mats are quite soft and in a vertical position, over time, will shrink, which will lead to cold bridges. But the fibers in it are arranged randomly, giving the material the necessary rigidity and resistance to mechanical stress.

When insulating with mineral wool, it is necessary to use vapor-tight films to protect against condensate. But this is not its only protection against moisture, hydrophobic substances are added even at the manufacturing stage, and basalt fibers themselves are non-hygroscopic raw materials.

Fiberglass

This material has been known for a long time and has been successfully used for home insulation for many years. They are made on the basis of broken glass, soda, sand, dolomite, limestone and a number of other components. It is also heated and separated into many fine fibers, which are arranged parallel to each other in the finished material.

Fiberglass properties:

keeps the house warm in winter and cool in summer;
has soundproofing properties;
fiberglass mats, although they absorb moisture, easily give it back, which indicates non-hygroscopicity;
due to good elasticity and resilience, it does not deform for many years;
the composition of the material is environmentally friendly, and due to the treatment with special preparations it is not afraid of pests and is not susceptible to mold;
unlike mineral wool, fiberglass is more vibration resistant;
great for warming uneven surfaces;
when burning does not emit harmful substances.

Fiberglass insulated walls and facades frame houses, but still, this material is more suitable for thermal insulation of floors, interfloor ceilings and pipelines.
Fiberglass mats are easy to cut, but you should work with them in protective clothing and a respirator, because when it comes into contact with the skin, irritation begins, which will take quite a long time to get rid of.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam is a modern analogue of conventional polystyrene. It is favorably distinguished from other heaters by low water absorption and strong compression resistance, providing high stability to the material.

It withstands very low and high temperatures without losing its properties. When warming them, it is not necessary to carry out waterproofing work. There is also no need to purchase vapor barrier films, which is an additional advantage.

Expanded polystyrene has special markings, thanks to which it is easy to choose necessary material according to its characteristics - compressive strength or embossing surface.

Styrofoam

Polyfoam has been known for more than half a century. Probably the cheapest kind. thermal insulation material. It is great for warming residential and non-residential buildings. Its structure is made up of plastic granules filled with gas, which practically do not let heat through.

Despite the artificial origin, in terms of vapor-permeable characteristics, expanded polystyrene is similar to wood. And due to its low hygroscopicity, it is not subject to rotting and the formation of mold that is harmful to health.

Another important advantage is its resistance to acids (with the exception of nitric and acetic acid) and paints.

For do-it-yourself insulation, PPS plates sized 50x100 and 60x120 cm are best suited.

Disadvantages:

high flammability of the material;
enters into a chemical reaction with some solvents (in particular, with dichloroethane and benzene);
fragile material that is easy to break;
when insulating a private house with it, it suffers from the teeth of mice that like to make their holes in it.

Ecowool

This is a relatively new thermal insulation material that is gaining popularity due to affordable price, environmental friendliness and excellent specifications am.

Advantages:

made from wood fiber, it has excellent thermal properties;
during production, special additives are added to ecowool, making it a difficult-to-ignite material;
in its manufacture, antiseptics are used, so rodents and other pests do not live in it, and mold and fungus do not form;
protects wooden house from rotting, and in frame houses it extends the service life of wooden elements up to 100 years. Because of natural origin(the basis is cellulose), ecowool has the ability to "breathe".

A layer of ecowool of 15 cm is equal to: 46 cm of foam concrete wall, 18 cm of mineral wool insulation, 50 cm of thickness wooden beam, 90 cm expanded clay, 146 cm brick walls.

Features and comparison of thermal insulation materials

What you should pay attention to when choosing a thermal insulation material:

All cotton wool insulation (mineral wool, fiberglass) suppress well airborne noise. But polystyrene and polystyrene foam will require the use of additional soundproofing material.
Wadded heaters, although made of non-hygroscopic materials, absorb water well (the air between the fibers absorbs water). And having got wet only by 2% of the mass, they lose 50% of their properties. Therefore, they are insulated only in conjunction with the use of vapor-tight films. PPS and EPPS do not absorb moisture, and being in water, do not lose their characteristics for a long time.
It is not recommended to insulate the walls of the house with foam from the inside. It belongs to combustible materials, and when burned, it releases toxic substances. But if the choice fell on PPS, it is worth stopping at the G1 flammability group. Although it will burn on contact with fire, it will not be able to sustain combustion on its own. Of course, groups such as G4 or G3 are much cheaper, but it is dangerous to choose them for warming a private house.

Wall insulation from the inside of a frame house with mineral wool

Mineral wool is classified into several types:

with a density of 10-90 kg / m3 - suitable for insulation and soundproof frame houses, in which no load will be placed on it;
more rigid, with a density of 90 kg / m3, designed to bear some loads, most often it is insulated with the contours of structures;
the third type is technical. It is used for insulation of equipment and is able to withstand temperatures from - 180 to + 700 degrees.

Wall insulation frame house mineral wool is best option. It does not burn, perfectly retains heat, isolates rooms from noise and is safe for health and the environment.

The main task when working with it is to create a hermetic vapor barrier from all sides, reliably protecting the material from condensation and moisture. It will also be necessary to equip a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier covering the insulation and the finishing wall cladding.

Stages of work

The distance between the vertical posts in the frame house is 60 cm, which corresponds in width to the size of the basalt slab. For wall insulation, material in the form of plates with a density of at least 30 kg / m3 is suitable. The standard sheet thickness is 5 cm, so the number of layers is selected individually, depending on the weather conditions of the region. So, for the south of Russia, it is enough to make a layer of insulation of 10 cm. And during construction in the northern regions optimum thickness 15 cm of thermal insulation material on the inside, and 5 cm on the outside. Moreover, the external insulation is attached in such a way as to cover all wooden beams frame, thereby eliminating the possibility of cold bridges.

From the outside frame house, as a rule, already has a layer of vapor barrier to protect the external insulation, so it makes no sense to duplicate it from the inside before laying the insulation. If between OSB boards small gaps have formed, they must be foamed with mounting foam.
The insulation between the vertical posts must be laid tightly so that there are no gaps. Due to the good elasticity of the material, this is easy to do. From above, it is closed with a vapor barrier film, which is overlapped, and all its seams are additionally glued with construction reinforced tape.

On top of the membrane film, a crate for plasterboard sheathing is attached to the frame.

How to insulate a frame house with ecowool

Second best way to insulate a frame house is to use ecowool. In most cases, the companies that produce it offer installation services. But spraying it is easy and on your own, just rent a special vacuum cleaner. True, it should be noted that the manufacturer will assure that there is no need for vapor barrier material. This is partly true, but in order to extend the service life and to prevent unpleasant situations, additional protection against condensate is necessary.

Ecowool is applied in three ways:

dry method. This is the most common option, it is suitable for insulating the walls of a private house from the inside, floors, interfloor ceilings and sloping mansard roofs. Spraying is carried out using a hose from which insulation is supplied. It is simply poured into prepared wall cavities or filled in the floor space between the beams.

Wet way. Ideal for insulating sloped surfaces. Water is added to it, due to which adhesion increases and the material sticks to the wall. And after drying, a denser coating is created.

"Adhesive method". As the name implies, glue is added to the insulation. This method is used when insulating concrete or metal walls, for example hangars. In this case, finishing trim is not required.

Insulation of the walls of a brick house from the inside

When choosing a heat-insulating material for insulation brick house from the inside, it is important that it has high thermal insulation properties, but has a small thickness. Unlike a frame house, in which the insulation is located inside the walls, in a brick house it occupies a usable area. Therefore, it is so important to find the best option without damaging residential meters.

Consider three methods of insulation - plaster, foam and mineral wool.

Insulation of the walls of a brick house from the inside with plaster

On the aligned walls, the first coat of primer is applied with a paint brush with a stiff brush. It should have a liquid consistency, and when applied, fill all the gaps and small cracks. On average, the thickness of the first layer is 5-8 mm.

Then comes the plastering. It is she who is the main heat-insulating material, therefore, it should be distributed evenly. First, a fabric reinforcing mesh is mounted on the wall, and the composition is applied on top of it with a spatula with a flat surface. Gradually, in two stages, a layer of 5 cm is created (a layer thickness of 1.5-2 cm is allowed, but not more).

At the final stage, the plaster is covered with the last leveling layer. To do this, the liquid consistency of the solution is diluted and fine-grained sand is added to it. The thickness of this layer is approximately 5 mm.

Insulation of the walls of a brick house from the inside with foam

All the advantages and disadvantages of foam insulation have already been described above, so we will consider the stages of work directly.

For more effective insulation the brick wall is first plastered. Then a layer of putty level the surface for a snug fit of foam sheets.

If the outside of the house does not have waterproofing, it must be done from the inside. It can be a liquid primer or a vapor barrier film. Despite the moisture resistance of PPS, the moisture formed on brickwork, penetrates and destroys it.

Now the installation of sheets begins. On a flat surface, it is attached to a special adhesive, which is applied to the walls or directly to the material. Styrofoam sheets should fit snugly against each other, without the formation of cracks at the joints.

From above, the heat-insulating material is closed with a vapor barrier. Warming is completed, you can start finishing.

Insulation of the walls of a brick house from the inside with mineral wool

With this type of insulation, the brick wall must also be closed with hydro or vapor barrier.

Then a crate is mounted from metal profiles or wooden slats located vertically. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the heat-insulating material. You can’t make it a little wider, go add allowances, because mineral wool is soft material, which is easy to stack, but it must be located in the frame very tightly.

After all the insulation is laid and covered with a vapor barrier film, a crate is nailed on top for finishing.

Walls are insulated in the same way. panel house from within. But depending on the initial thickness of the walls, a thicker layer of insulation may be required.

Insulation of the walls of a log house from the inside

Above is a diagram of the "pie" of warming a log house. When warming wooden house mineral wool, it is imperative to provide a ventilated gap between the timber wall and the insulation layer to prevent the accumulation of condensate.

Wood is an organic material that is susceptible to decay. Therefore, it will be necessary to build, from the inside, a whole frame system filled with insulation. If this is neglected, the timber will rot in 4-5 years.

For the frame, boards are selected with a length equal to the height of the room from ceiling to floor. They are installed in increments of 60 cm, this is the standard width of all mineral wool heaters. They are fixed indented from the wall by 2-3 cm, thus creating a ventilation gap.

But in order for the moisture to escape into the atmosphere, it will be necessary to make ventilation in the wall. To do this, a hole with a diameter of 2 cm is drilled in the first beam from the floor at an angle of 45 degrees to the ground. They must be made along the entire length in increments of 1 m. From above, the ventilation gap is left open, with access to the attic or under the eaves.

To protect the air from overlapping with mineral wool and to retain warm air inside the room, a vapor barrier film is attached to the frame.

After installing the vapor barrier, the insulation is tightly laid, without the formation of cold bridges. From above, as shown in the diagram, the structure is also covered with a vapor barrier film.

The insulation is completed, it remains to make a crate for the inner wall cladding.

All information about the required layer thickness is given approximately. For an accurate calculation in each case, many factors should be taken into account - the material of the walls, the presence external insulation, climatic features, thermal insulation characteristics of a particular manufacturer, etc.

One and the same heat-insulating material cannot insulate everything. But if the seller or builder assures you otherwise, this only indicates their personal benefit.

It is necessary to lay cotton materials tightly, but in no case compress it. It should be located exactly in the crate and not have a bend.

According to the above technologies, wall insulation is produced country houses from the inside, cottages for year-round use or city apartments. The only difference is that in the first and last case, the insulation layer is made minimal.

The question of whether it is worth insulating the walls of the house from the inside still does not have a definite answer. Some experts are ardent opponents of this option. Others, on the contrary, believe that such a decision will create the most comfortable conditions for people's lives. It should be noted that both are correct. It all depends on specific situation according to which a decision must be made. But even before the start of work on the insulation of the walls of the house from the inside, it is important to study the features of the process and select a safe material.

Main advantages

Warming the walls of the house from the inside is especially important in apartment buildings. It is sometimes the only option for creating comfortable conditions in those rooms that are adjacent to unheated, cold technical rooms or with stairwell. It is possible to insulate the walls from the inside in a private house. Such a solution will preserve the original appearance of the facade or increase the amount of heat that will be stored in the building.

Such works belong to non-traditional technologies. Most often, their implementation is recommended in cases where it is simply impossible to arrange external insulation. These are, for example, the same high-rise buildings. After all, sometimes very often it is required to maintain heat in the premises of a panel house. Insulation of the walls in the apartment from the inside will be the only option when the work can be carried out independently, in the shortest possible time and without obtaining the appropriate permits that are necessary for the arrangement of the facade. As a result, the comfort of housing will increase, and the owners will forget about such troubles as fungus and mold.

Possible problems

Despite certain advantages, the insulation of the walls of the house from the inside has a number of disadvantages. It was they who became the reason for the appearance of opponents of this decision. So, the presence of insulation on internal walls buildings contribute to problems such as:

-Insecurity of the walls from the cold. After all, the supporting structure of the house does not get rid of contact with the outside air. This leads to its rapid destruction. Cracks begin to appear on the surface of the walls, because their insulation from the inside takes a certain part of the heat. And if before the events, the external structures of the building were heated from the inside, then upon completion of the work, this process stops.

-Dropout of condensate. As is known, on a cold surface in contact with warm air moisture droplets form. This phenomenon is called the "dew point". The main goal facing the thermal insulation of the house is to move such a point outside outdoor structure. Wall insulation from the inside in a private house or in a high-rise apartment leads to the formation of condensate at the border between the insulation and its surface. In this regard, the process is hidden from the owners, and they simply do not notice it. The walls at high humidity become an excellent breeding ground for mold and fungi.

-Reducing the size of the rooms. Today, the construction industry produces different kinds most modern materials with sufficiently high efficiency. However, she has not yet come up with one that, while maintaining high technical characteristics, would be very small in its thickness. Warming the house from the inside will take from the premises from 5 to 10 cm of their space, which will significantly reduce the usable area. At first glance, this is not very noticeable. But if you count the entire building, the figure will be quite impressive.

Based on the foregoing, before starting work on insulating the walls of the house from the inside, it is advisable to carefully consider the negative aspects of such a decision. Get rid of possible problems already needed for initial stage, because otherwise the negative result will be noticeable in the first years of such operation.

materials

What makes it possible to use a technology that provides for the insulation of the surface of the walls from the inside of the building? These may be the most various materials with their own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. As a rule, the most popular options for insulation for such work are mineral wool and foam plastic, foam plastic, as well as boards made from wood fiber. Consider their advantages and disadvantages in more detail.

Styrofoam

Very often, the owners, who decide to insulate the house from the inside, opt for this material. After all, it is quite effective and, importantly, has a low cost. As a rule, 5 cm of such a protective layer is quite enough to provide a comfortable microclimate in the premises.

Styrofoam is most often insulated with walls in apartments of multi-storey buildings. The use of this material allows you to install quickly, without additional tools and complex processing.

Among the disadvantages of polystyrene are the following:

low strength;

combustibility;

Poor vapor permeability.

The latest forecast contributes to the transformation of the house into a real greenhouse. In order to avoid this problem, it will be necessary to equip forced ventilation, which will require additional labor and financial costs.

Penoplex

The closest relative of polystyrene is extruded polystyrene foam, also known as polystyrene foam. Outwardly, these two materials are very similar to each other. However, foam boards are orange, not white. In addition, it is more durable, which determines its durability.

However, the disadvantages of polystyrene in the form of flammability and poor vapor permeability of this material are still preserved. Insulation of the internal surfaces of the walls when using it will not allow the house to "breathe", which will require forced ventilation.

Can polystyrene foam be used to create comfortable indoor conditions? Yes, but you will need to prepare in advance for possible problems and fix them in time.

This option is more acceptable for a house, as well as one built from lightweight concrete. As for wood, it is usually chosen for the construction of buildings for its ability to "breathe". But the foam and foam block the air flow. This negates all the advantages of wood.

Mineral wool

These heaters are also widely used for interior cladding. Attractive in this material is its inexpensive price. Experts recommend using mineral wool in hard slabs to insulate the wall of the house from the inside with mineral wool. Such material is easy to install, non-flammable and has high strength.

Roll is produced under such brands as Rockwool, Knauf, and Isover. She has good:

1. Thermal conductivity. This allows you to use a thin layer of insulation.
2. Soundproof. The use of glass wool provides excellent protection against street noise. The air layer between its fibers contributes to similar properties of the material.
3. Vapor permeability.
4. Tear strength.
5. Resistance to biological attack, for example, to rodents.

In favor of this insulation is also its high service life. It has been successfully fulfilling its functions for fifty years. In addition, mineral wool has a low density and low weight.

However, it should be borne in mind that this material perfectly absorbs water, ceasing to function after that according to its intended purpose. In order to prevent this from happening, provide vapor barrier and waterproofing in the form of a film or membrane. The first protects the insulation from the side of warm air, and the second - from the cold.

fiberboard

Warming from the inside can be carried out using They have:

Good sound absorption and thermal insulation;

Unattractive to rodents and insects;

Good resistance to moisture and temperature extremes;

Ease of processing using any tools;

Easy installation;

Ease of wiring.

However, it should be borne in mind that fiberboard boards are subject to treatment with toxic substances. This carries a danger to humans. That is why this material is most often used for outdoor decoration.

Warming of frame houses

For those who decide to improve the comfort of their home, you will need to check its condition. If any defects are found, they will need to be eliminated before work begins. Warming the walls of a frame house from the inside will require their cleaning and removal of foreign objects. An important point it will also get rid of the gaps present in the structural elements. To do this, you need to apply mounting foam. If the wood of the walls is damp, then it is dried with a building hair dryer.

Performing the insulation of the walls of the house from the inside with your own hands, you will need to go through two stages. The first of these is the installation of waterproofing. The second stage involves laying a layer of thermal insulation.

Waterproofing is pre-cut into strips corresponding to the size of the walls and attached to them. Next, a heater is laid, placing it between the racks of a pre-arranged crate. The material chosen to create a comfortable temperature in the room is pre-cut into strips corresponding to the area of the walls. At the same time, their size may exceed the required one by 5 cm. Such a nuance allows you to lay the insulation more densely. This will increase the efficiency of its application.

Warming of wooden houses

Work in such buildings begins with the installation of the crate, which is equipped on load-bearing walls. In this case, it is recommended to use a beam. Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside using a metal profile makes sense in cases where in the future they will be sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard.

To create even and regular corners, corner posts are prepared from a bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm. Their height should be equal to the height of the room. Along the edge of such a beam, a second one is reinforced with self-tapping screws, with a smaller section (50 x 50 mm). Such a solution will allow you to fix the selected material inside the created structure.

Warming the walls of a wooden house from the inside will require their preliminary treatment with a special liquid. This will protect the surface from rotting and burning.

The next step in insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands is the installation of bars, which are fastened in increments of 50 cm. After completing the arrangement of the crate, you can begin the process of fixing the material, which is most often mineral wool. The insulation is pre-cut along the height of the walls with a width exceeding the distance between the vertical parts of the structure by 2 cm.

Mineral wool is fastened inside the crate with anchor bolts. It can be laid in 2 layers, between which a film should be placed.

After fixing the heat insulator, bars measuring 30x40 mm are mounted. Next, sheathing is performed using the decorative material chosen by the owners, which can be, for example, lining. By the way, it will allow you to additionally insulate the house. In this case, the interior will look very attractive.

Warming of panel houses

In order to create a comfortable temperature in such a building, as a rule, mineral wool is used. In addition, wall insulation panel house from the inside it can be made with penofol and fibrolite, foamed polyurethane and cork wood.

How is such work carried out? Insulation of walls in a panel house from the inside will require their cleaning from old coatings. A vacuum cleaner can be used to remove dirt. The surface should be treated with a primer and an antiseptic. After applying the next layer, the wall must be allowed to dry thoroughly. At the next stage, the surface is leveled with plaster, covering all joints with mastic, sealant or moisture-resistant mortar. Only after that proceed to the arrangement of the heat insulator. Completing installation work facing material on which the final finish is applied.

Insulation of brick houses

Buildings made of this material are distinguished by durability and strength. However, brick retains heat much worse than, for example, wood. To support indoors comfortable temperature, you will need to protect the walls from the cold.

Very often, the owners insulate the walls with isover from the inside in a brick house. is on the list of one of the most popular materials for such work. However, it should be borne in mind that you cannot leave it open. After all, over time, mineral wool will begin to emit dust that adversely affects the health of residents. If a brick house with the use of this material will be insulated correctly, then there will be no problems in the future. In this case, it will only be necessary to carry out waterproofing of the insulating layers, since they easily absorb moisture, get wet, as a result of which they lose their properties.

To install an insulating layer of mineral wool with your own hands, you will need to prepare the following materials and tools:

Wooden slats;

mineral wool;

Film for waterproofing;

Film for vapor barrier;

plaster;

Primer;

Putty knife;

Plywood or drywall.

The installation of mineral wool is carried out after a thorough preparation of the walls, which are plastered and primed. It is not necessary to level such a surface, because in the future a crate will be mounted on it.

After the walls have dried, a layer of waterproofing is attached to them. Next, they begin to form the crate, which is made of wooden slats, fastening them together with screws. The next step is to install a heater. A vapor barrier film is placed on top of it and the laths of the crate. Cover such a structure with sheets of drywall or plywood. The joints of the facing material are sealed with putty.

One of the most important conditions for living in an apartment is good heat supply, for which either centralized system heating, or stand-alone equipment installed by residents. However, the heating efficiency directly depends on the correct thermal insulation of the premises.

Consider how to insulate a wall in an apartment in order to increase the air temperature and at the same time reduce energy costs for heating. Why we present two detailed instructions on thermal insulation with popular types of heaters, in which each step is illustrated with photographs.

Also in this material we will consider less popular methods that can be used to insulate walls from the inside.

The preferred way to insulate the walls of apartments and houses is, however, that does not affect the dew point shift and heats the entire wall.

If the insulation layer is mounted on the inside, the wall freezes through its entire thickness, and moves closer to the living space.

A negative consequence of internal insulation is condensation, which eventually destroys the insulating and decorative materials, dramatically reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation and provokes the appearance of mold

However, the external method is not always suitable. Difficulties arise with the installation of insulation on panel skyscrapers, as well as on walls adjacent to technical spaces, for example, an elevator shaft. If the building is a historical object, appearance facade cannot be changed.

However, in some cases, thermal insulation simply cannot be dispensed with:

Image gallery

If it is planned to build a partition in an insulated room, then it can also be done using mineral wool, but it is better to replace OSB boards with drywall sheets.

Isover is placed between two walls of LGK, with each wall made of 2 layers of drywall. Such a partition will protect from cold and noise no worse than a full-fledged reinforced concrete wall.

Both presented methods have disadvantages that must be taken into account when planning work.

Firstly, they take away part of the usable area and reduce the living space around the perimeter, secondly, they require significant investments from the family budget, and thirdly, when applying them, all the nuances of technology must be observed.

Brief overview of other methods

Other technologies are also used, among which there are both outdated, but cheaper, and modern, requiring considerable investments.

Installation of expanded polystyrene or polystyrene

With the advent of EPPS, it has become impractical to use ordinary non-pressed polystyrene foam (PSB), since it has degraded characteristics.

Namely:

burns and melts releasing hazardous substances;
is fragile, due to which the pieces break under mechanical pressure;
not protected from rodents.

In terms of parameters, it is inferior to extruded polystyrene foam, and this can be seen from the table of physical and technical properties of expanded polystyrene plates.

Laying thermal insulation inside the house is best used only as an additional measure. If the outer walls are not protected from the cold, when warming inside the house, condensation will constantly form in the room, which will contribute to the development of fungus and mold in the walls.

Dew point

The dew point is the temperature at which steam turns into water. Condensation occurs at the hot-cold interface. In our case, it will appear in the place where the unheated wall comes into contact with the warm air coming from the room. Moreover, the greater the difference between the temperature of the wall and the temperature inside the room, the more condensate will be.

Dew point in the wall of the house

If the house is insulated from the outside, when laying additional thermal insulation inside the house, there will be no sharp temperature drop, so the amount of condensate inside the room will be minimal. But it will still accumulate.

So that the walls do not get wet after insulation, for laying internal thermal insulation, not only choose the right material, but also to take measures for the ideal seam sealing. To avoid condensation, it is better to insulate only separate parts of the walls on the lee side, end pieces and corners.

Material selection

For internal insulation, you should not choose materials that have a high degree of moisture absorption: mineral wool, cork, warm plaster or drywall. The last two materials can only be used as a finishing layer.

Porous penoplex does not absorb moisture, but has low vapor permeability, so it can only be used if the quality of the seams is perfect. If the heat-insulating layer is leaky, condensation will form between the wall and the finishing material.

The air permeability of the foam is higher, in addition, it is very problematic to achieve perfect docking with the wall using this material, so it is better not to use it for interior wall decoration or choose high-strength foam.

Penoplex

Wall preparation

Before sticking heat-insulating materials, the walls must be completely cleaned of old wallpaper, paint and crumbling plaster. To do this, you can use a metal brush, a building hair dryer or a grinder with a special nozzle. In the presence of mold or fungus, these areas are additionally treated with antiseptics after cleaning.

In order to avoid the appearance of cold bridges and condensation, all existing cracks should be completely sealed with foam or mortar. The protruding parts of the wall, which do not allow the heat-insulating material to be laid evenly, are knocked off. Too large dents are smoothed out with mortar.

Wall cleaning

All holes and gaps between the wall and the window are carefully sealed with mounting foam. After it hardens, the remains are cut off with a knife.

Filling cracks with foam

Padding

Applying a primer layer will reduce the degree of vapor permeability of the walls, strengthen the surface and increase its degree of adhesion to the adhesive composition. In addition, such treatment will prevent the development of the fungus.

For priming, you should choose compositions deep penetration. For wood processing, it is better to choose alkyd mixtures. Acrylic primer is versatile and can be used on all kinds of surfaces. Epoxy compounds are used only for processing concrete and brick walls.

The primer is applied twice. The second layer is applied only after the first has dried. Smooth walls can be primed with a roller. In the presence of a large number dents and chips, it is better to use a regular brush, the bristles of which are able to penetrate even the smallest cracks.

Priming the walls with a roller

Laying vapor barrier film

Before installing the insulation on the wall, a foil material is fixed that reflects heat, or a thick plastic film. They are attached to wooden bars or profile using staples, adhesive tape or mounting adhesive. Foil material is laid shiny side outside, to the room.

All joints are glued with construction tape. At the points of contact with building structures and pipes they are additionally treated with liquid sealant and fixed with a stapler.

Foil insulation finish

The film or foil material is overlapped, while the joints of the web should fall on the racks of the frame. A small overlap is made on the adjoining walls, windows, ceiling and floor.

Insulation installation

Unlike foam plastic, foam plastic has a smooth rather than rough surface, therefore, to increase its adhesion to the wall, it is treated before sticking needle roller or sandpaper.

Needle roller

Small areas (the space under the batteries, slopes and window sills) are isolated first. Penoplex is well cut with a hacksaw or a sharp knife. To avoid damage to the material, it can be cut with hot wire.

Important! Work should be carried out in the summer after thorough drying of the room. The walls on which the heat-insulating material will be laid should be as dry as possible.

Wall decoration with foam

To fix the sheets to the wall, it is better to use a special adhesive composition designed for working with foam plastic. It must be diluted in small quantities: the dried mixture will crumble and the thermal insulation will be broken. It retains adhesion for 10 minutes - during this time the foam sheet must be fixed to the wall.

The adhesive is spread evenly over the entire sheet using a notched trowel. With uneven walls, the adhesive can be applied in a thicker layer only in the center and perimeter of the sheet.

Coating sheets

The sticker starts from the bottom of the wall. Sheets are butted together. Unlike foam plastic, foam plastic has protrusions around the perimeter, so such a connection will be more airtight. As a support for the bottom sheet, it is better to use starting metal rail-profile, which is fixed to the wall with dowels with washers.

The sheet is glued from the bottom up. It is pressed tightly against the surface, and then the excess glue is "expelled" from under the sheet. For displacement (the foam is glued in a checkerboard pattern), the first sheet of the second row is cut in half. The correct installation of penoplex is controlled by the building level.

Important! The gaps between the foam are filled with scraps of material and glued. It is not recommended to use polyurethane foam for these purposes. In the process of expansion, it can lift the foam sheet, which will lead to leakage and cracking.

Foam mount

Additional fastening of sheets is carried out using plastic "fungi" in which dowels are inserted. To do this, holes are drilled in the wall through the insulation sheet: four at the corners of the sheet and one or two in its center. The dowels must enter a brick wall to a depth of at least 90 mm, and a concrete wall to a depth of 50 mm. They are hammered in with a rubber mallet.

Plastic dowels

After insulation, drywall or reinforced film can be attached to the wall and finished with decorative plaster.