How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? How to install a drywall ceiling and technology for providing work How to make a false ceiling from drywall

12.11.2019

If you want your room to have a beautiful and perfectly flat ceiling, try making it yourself. Show your imagination!

For the implementation of the most complex and unusual ideas, drywall is perfect.

It can be used to collect Various types ceiling coverings, among which the following designs are especially popular:

double (an excellent solution for obtaining soundproofing properties);
bunk (ideal for spacious rooms with high walls);
curly (allows you to give the interior dynamics, is used for additional decoration of rooms);
tension ( Alternative option for those who do not want to work with joints).

Drywall belongs to the category of universal building materials, widely used for finishing horizontal, vertical and inclined surfaces.

Design drywall sheet(GKL) includes two layers of thick cardboard, between which there is a core. The main ingredient of the internal filler is a hardened gypsum mortar, which may include various modification additives.

Gypsum board, unlike other similar building materials, has moisture-resistant qualities, relatively low weight and a variety of sizes, which makes it ideal for drafting and finishing ceilings.

With the help of GKL, you can design both a classic single-level ceiling with lighting, and install a two-level ceiling with hidden light elements.

Advantages and disadvantages of drywall

Proper work with drywall is carried out in strict accordance with the prescribed technical standards, requirements and safety rules.

Specialists in the field overhaul and construction distinguish the following positive traits material:

Versatility of application. Suitable for finishing heated and unheated premises for various purposes (living rooms, bathrooms, household and garage outbuildings, loggias)
Soundproofing effect, combined with good air exchange and minimal heat loss - gypsum ceilings are popular in private homes and country cottages with roofs made of corrugated board or metal tiles.
Ease of embedding spot and main lighting fixtures. Above the slabs of plasterboard can be imperceptibly held electric wires, phone lines, ventilation systems and other engineering communications without harming the aesthetic component of the issue.

To the difficulties of conducting installation work the need for high-quality processing of butt joints. Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard requires active participation at least two people. When assembling the rack box for the ceiling, errors in the calculations are unacceptable, even small flaws can lead to cracks and deformation of the cardboard sheets.

Necessary materials for the assembly of plasterboard ceiling structures

To create a false ceiling from GKL you will need:

drywall sheets (their type is selected taking into account the individual terms of reference and format of the room);
metal profile (with its help a frame skeleton is created for the future structure);
anchor-wedge ceiling (allows you to quickly and securely fasten a metal profile to the ceiling);
a construction knife with replaceable blades (for cutting plasterboard into the necessary fragments);
cordless screwdriver and self-tapping screws with a press washer (for attaching drywall to the profile);
perforator (for creating holes for anchor bolts);
expansion dowels;
special tape for sealing GKL;
construction narrow spatula;
putty for subsequent finishing.

Preliminary calculations, marking and surface preparation

Before you start sheathing the ceiling, you need to determine the lowest zone of the draft ceiling in the room. From it it is necessary to note the distance in height at which it is planned to mount the future structure. This is required so that the frame on the plasterboard ceiling is installed correctly.

According to accepted standards, the gap between the ceiling base and the plasterboard suspended ceiling must be at least 5 cm. In cases where the inter-ceiling space acts as a kind of masking box engineering networks and large lighting elements, level decorative ceiling must be lowered by at least another 15-20 cm.

From the obtained point, it is necessary to draw a smooth continuous line, thus capturing the entire perimeter of the room space. The easiest way to do this is with building level(laser is suitable for a large area, bubble is enough for small rooms).

The next step is the application of construction markings in places where it is planned to install a profile skeleton. The distance between longitudinal profiles must be a multiple of the width of the drywall sheet. The standard material width is 120 cm, so ideal option the installation of a metal structure with a distance of 40 cm is considered: two guides are fixed at the edges, one in the middle. The attachment points of the suspensions must also be noted in advance. Their interval step should be from 40 to 50 cm.

An example of markup is shown in the photo.

At the final stage preparatory work it is required to mark each drywall sheet in accordance with the approved plan for their installation. For additional markup details, see the video at the bottom of this page.

Creation of a reliable metal frame for a plasterboard ceiling

The manufacture of the ceiling begins with the installation of the supporting base. The guide to creating a metal frame includes 5 main points.

Holes are drilled on the prepared line at the points indicated earlier. A UD-profile is brought to the draft ceiling, the fixation of which is carried out with the help of dowels-nails.

Hangers are being installed. Their main purpose is to fasten the main longitudinal metal profiles. For transverse structural elements, they are not needed. Suspensions are attached with ordinary dowel-nails. If voids are found, it is rational to use a ceiling wedge anchor.

The next step is to install the CD type profile. Before hanging them, it is necessary to determine a flat horizontal plane that runs over the entire area of \u200b\u200bwork. To do this, just pull the nylon thread.

The longitudinal CD profile is initially fixed between opposite UD parts (specifically, it is inserted into grooves specially designed for this purpose). Then it is sequentially mounted in prepared suspensions. The free ends of the suspensions are bent vertically down, completely wrap around the profile and are fixed with small universal screws.

The final stage of creating the frame involves the installation transverse profiles which are recommended to be placed at a distance of half a meter from each other.

The finished frame must be gently pulled down on each side. This technology allows you to align all the suspensions along the same length and helps to identify possible irregularities in the horizontal plane of the frame.

Basic principles of working with drywall

Before starting the installation of a plasterboard false ceiling, it is necessary to think over and organize the space above the ceiling. All electrical wires and cables are placed in flexible corrugated tubes and fixed with metal clips to the rough finish. On the GKL, the zones for the location of the lamps are indicated, the corresponding holes are cut out along the contour of the outlined figure.

Step-by-step instruction how to fix drywall is as follows:

Cut sheets for ease of attachment.
Seal the metal profile with tape to provide additional shock absorption and sound insulation.
Attach the sheets along the edges to the frame. The distance from the edge to the fastening point should be about 2 cm. The step between the screws should be 10-15 cm.
According to the installation rules, panels are first attached, closely adjacent to the corner sections of the walls. Next, you need to fix the remaining sheets around the entire perimeter of the room. Central elements ceiling structures are attached last.

After completion of installation work, ready suspended ceiling must be "settled" within 48 hours. Next, you can start finishing. For processing joints, a primer is used, after which mounting seams need to putty (gypsum mixture is perfect for these purposes trademark"Knauf").

To give additional rigidity and strength to the finish, it is recommended to use a reinforcing mesh.

To do this, it is necessary to apply 60% putty, drown the mesh with the mixture that has not yet hardened, smooth out the irregularities with a spatula, fill the remaining volume of the docking recess with a second layer of putty. The frame on the plasterboard ceiling is ready.

How to find a profile under drywall?

In order not to miss and get the fasteners exactly into the metal frame, we recommend using powerful neodymium magnets.

With it, you can easily find a rack, guide profile or auxiliary metal jumpers under the plasterboard surface. The search for a profile ceiling frame is necessary in order to hang lighting fixtures or other decorative elements interior.

With an error in the calculations, the entire structure will sooner or later collapse to the floor, so it is very important to determine the correct point for fasteners. For this you need:

Choose an approximate place for future fastening.
Attach a thin sheet of paper or cloth to the ceiling so that the magnet does not scratch the surface.
Place a neodymium magnet on the fabric and slowly move it along the intended search area.
When a magnetic reaction occurs, mark the place with a pencil.

We draw your attention to the fact that for the most effective search for a metal profile, it is better to use a large magnet. It is able to cover a larger radius at a time, which means that metal detection will not take much time.

Video tutorial on the topic: "How to make a level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands"

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with useful video material that will allow you to visually assess the upcoming scope of work, as well as deal with all the nuances of the installation of single-level and multi-level ceilings.

Plasterboard ceilings are a simple and economical way to transform an apartment. Reliability of a design is checked up by long-term experience. Advantages, as the same experience shows, these ceilings have a lot. Of great importance is the fact that making plasterboard ceilings is simple, and a non-professional can cope with the task. The aesthetic possibilities here are simply endless. You can create unique design, boldly using different variants lighting, and curvilinear shapes.

Preparations should begin with the creation of a project. Specify how many levels the ceiling will have. It depends on it . In advance, it is necessary to think over the layout of lighting fixtures and additional lighting. It may be necessary to ditch the ceiling and walls to lay the wiring. Only after that you can draw up a project, make calculations and go to the store for materials.

Instruments

It won't work without reliable tools. It depends on them and the time of work. Before purchasing materials, check that you have all the tools. It is better to make a list right away and buy everything in advance.

From the little things you will need: marker, construction pencil, indicator screwdriver, drills of different diameters, jigsaw files, bits, masking tape, electrical tape and paint rollers.

materials

Drywall can have a thickness of 6.5 to 12.5 mm. For the ceiling, it is better to buy sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm. But if there is one in the project, 6.5 mm drywall will be the best for them. If you purchase thicker sheets, you need to strengthen the frame. Your ceiling will be heavy, which means it needs more profiles and fixtures.

Important.
Drywall suitable for living quarters with GKL marking.
Needed for kitchen or bathroom moisture resistant material.

There are two types of profiles:

Guide (PN) dimensions 27 x 27 mm. This profile is attached around the perimeter of the room.
Ceiling (PP) with dimensions of 56 x 27 or 60 x 27 mm. Drywall sheets are attached directly to this profile.

Profiles used for the ceiling:
ceiling CD and UD rail

U-shaped suspensions are used to fasten ceiling profiles to the draft ceiling. You can use other suspensions, but U-shaped ones are the most reliable. For the ceiling, it is better to take plastic dowels and screws. If the ceiling is concrete, dowels are needed for heavy metal structures. Self-tapping screws are used to fasten drywall. At the joints of the profiles, a connector (crab) is used.

At the final stages, putty is needed for processing seams and paint.

Ceiling installation steps

Drywall work involves a large number of dust. If you do not intend to change the wallpaper, they need to be covered with a film. It is better to take out the furniture, in extreme cases, wrap it tightly with a film. The draft ceiling must be plastered and primed. Pieces of plaster falling on the false ceiling can damage it. All wiring has already been done to the lighting installation areas.

1. Measurements and marking

Ceiling height depends on the type of lighting fixtures. If a chandelier is supposed to be, 5 cm is enough. About 10 cm is needed for free space. If you plan to hide communications behind the ceiling, the distance can be up to 40 cm.

On the walls under the ceiling it is necessary to apply a perfectly even horizontal line. Along this line you will attach the guide profile. To determine this line, you need a laser level. You can use a spirit level or a rule. The line must close exactly at the point from which it began. The smallest shifts are not allowed. In the corners, the level must be placed both on the surface of the walls and in the corners of the spacer. All lines are drawn with a construction pencil.

Horizontal markings around the perimeter - controlled by a level, then the mounting points of the guides are marked

After completing the horizontal markings, we proceed to the ceiling. The attachment points of the suspensions are marked and lines are drawn along which the ceiling profile will be mounted. As a result, you should get a grid with squares, the side of which is 60 cm. You need to start from the center of the room. Near the walls, most likely, squares will not work. Your task is to make the cell sizes symmetrical near each wall.

2. Mounting the frame

The standard length of the guide profile is 3 m. A minimum of 4 dowel-nails must be used to fasten one element. It is desirable to glue the profile at the point of contact with the wall with sealing tape. The profile must pass clearly along the drawn markings, the elements should fit snugly against each other. Installation is best done in the classical way, in which the dowel is first screwed in, and then a screw is installed in it.

The next stage is fastening with dowel-nails to the draft ceiling of U-shaped suspensions. The interval between them along one line should be 40-70 cm. At the joints of the profiles, suspensions are installed on both sides. The ends of the suspension must be bent as much as possible. During the fastening process, they should not bend, otherwise the profile cannot be fixed evenly.

The ceiling profile must be 1 cm shorter than the width of the ceiling. If your room is less than 3 m wide (standard profile length), cut off the excess with metal shears. If the room has a large width, you will have to connect two profiles. To do this, you need to buy special fasteners.

Important! If you are building up a ceiling profile, the joints on two adjacent ones should not be on the same line. Additionally, the joints are fixed with suspensions.

The sequence of installation of ceiling profiles:

You need to start from the corners of the room. The partner takes the rule and sets it in a diagonal corner. The other end of the rule will support the profile so it doesn't sag. So your partner will maintain the profile exactly along the line of the guides. In the meantime, you insert the profile into the guides, screw it to the hangers with 4 self-tapping screws and to the guides.
The center is also attached to suspensions. If it is impossible to use the rule in the same way as in the corner, apply it exactly from the starting profile, be sure to check the line with a level. The excess length of the suspensions is bent up.
The second profile is attached in the same way. After that, everything should be repeated near the opposite wall.
The central profiles are attached in the same way, leveling on the already installed ones.

Further, perpendicular to the main profiles, jumpers are installed. The distance between them should be 60 cm, that's why you broke the ceiling into squares. The profile is cut into segments with the required length. Crabs are installed at the joints, fastened with 4 self-tapping screws, the antennae are bent. Jumpers with self-tapping screws are attached to the antennae of the crab. From below, the jumpers do not need to be attached to the profile; during the installation of drywall, they will be fixed.

Photo: suspended ceiling insulation with mineral wool

The free space between the draft and suspended ceilings can be filled with heat and sound insulation. The most commonly used mineral wool. It is cut into rectangles larger than the cells in the frame, and the space is filled, additionally fixed with suspensions.

3. Installation of drywall

Drywall sheets should lie in the room for several days, always in a horizontal position. Sheets are cut to the desired size with a construction knife. Before starting installation, the chamfer must be cut at the edges with a knife at an angle so that the putty completely fills the gap. Burrs that form during cutting are removed with a planer. Holes for fixtures are made using crowns after careful measurements.

Sheets need to start fastening from the corner. Self-tapping screws on adjacent sheets must be screwed in at different levels. The step between the screws is 20 cm. The hat must be completely recessed, it is advisable to check each screw by touch.
The sheet is attached to both the guide and the ceiling profiles.
Drywall cannot be closely joined along the perimeter. Leave a gap of 2 mm.
Between themselves, the sheets must be placed in a run-up, shifting at least one cell.

Photo: fixing a drywall sheet with a screwdriver

Not everyone can and, moreover, not everyone wants to pay a lot of money to the team for mounting the frame, which you can light with your own hands. When ordering drywall ceilings in a bedroom, hallway or hall, you will spend much more money on their installation than when buying materials in a store. Is there really no way out? Just learn for yourself! And we assure you - the plasterboard ceiling is not so terrible, as it is described on the Internet!

After spending only 20-25 minutes of your time, you can make false ceilings from drywall without outside help. Therefore, right now we will pull away a "piece of bread" from professional installers and screw this thing with our own hands!

What is a drywall ceiling for?

Many people think that this design is only for beauty. Actually, it's not like that at all appearance rooms - the last reason to do a false ceiling. Let us consider in more detail why it is necessary to make a plasterboard ceiling.

Savings on heating: you you will pay 10-25% less money for heating especially for tall buildings. From a ceiling of 320 centimeters ( private house, stalinka) you can make 240-250 cm, therefore, do not heat too much and warm air will be closer.
Ceiling alignment. Some emergency rooms require significant repairs. With the help of drywall, the problem with the ceiling is solved - you will smooth out any irregularities.
The problem of laying communications and engineering networks. Sometimes it's easier to hide them under drywall than to cut the entire ceiling and walls with a wall chaser.
Sound isolation. The best way"get rid" of the neighbors and retire in your house or apartment. With high-quality insulation, you can even live at the airport.

There are other minor advantages: plasterboard ceilings allow you to make multi-level structures and dry quickly, which significantly speeds up construction and calls in new house can be much faster.

Marking the ceiling for drywall - the first stage

Let's start with the purchase of materials and counting money. To know how much material will fly to the drywall ceiling in the bedroom, you need to mark it out and calculate it with a calculator. Let us consider in detail how the marking of the ceiling for drywall is done.

STEP 1: calculate the lowest point of the ceiling. You need to take a tape measure and measure all the angles. Take the smallest distance as a basis, step back 7 centimeters from above and mark with a marker.

STEP 2: Mark other corners. We take a laser level (you can also use a hydraulic level, but it’s more difficult to work) and “punch through” a straight line to the other three corners, make marks.

STEP 3: draw a line on the wall. We hammer in 1 nail at one mark, the other at the other, we stretch a paint cord between them (lubricate it with a little grease), then we take it aside and release it. He hits the wall, leaves an even trace - the line is ready. You can also simply draw a line with a ruler (level, profile) and a pencil.

STEP 4: fastening guides. We will start counting from them. We apply a metal profile 28x27 mm and drill holes through it in the wall every 10 centimeters. We take a sealing tape (sold in the kit), glue it on the profile, apply it to the wall and fix it with dowels on the holes made.

STEP 5: mark the wall under the main profiles. Drywall has a width of 120 centimeters and there are 3 profiles per sheet, that is, every 40 centimeters (at the edges of the sheets). We mark marks on any side of the wall every 40 cm, draw a line. We draw perpendicular jumpers every 250 centimeters (sheet length). The first suspension will be placed at a distance of 25 centimeters from the wall, further every 40-50 centimeters.

Important: do not forget to make marks on the wall where the profiles under the drywall will be. This will greatly simplify the search in the process of screwing drywall, because the sheets are large and you will have to make holes in it for a long time until you find a jumper in the middle of the sheet.

Now you can safely count all the lines on the wall and multiply them by the length or width of the room, respectively. It’s not worth sketching “in reserve”, since it is impossible to spoil the metal profile, and even bent one can be safely aligned and screwed onto the dowels. Additionally, at this stage, we need the following items for the plasterboard ceiling:

Metal profiles 28x27 mm (guides) and 60x27 (basic) according to the calculations.
"Crabs" for connecting profiles.
Sealing tape.
Anchor and dowel (for starters, you can take 50 pieces).
Level.
Drywall sheets (10 mm, moisture resistant)
Putty (3-4 bags per medium-sized room).
Screwdriver.
Self-tapping screws for drywall (25 mm for sheets of 10 mm).
Spatula and standard tools (ruler, tape measure, stationery knife, hammer).

After buying all this burda (most of the tools are probably already on the farm), you can get to work.

The second stage is the installation of a metal frame for the ceiling

The materials have been purchased and now the most boring, but important part of the work lies ahead - fixing metal profiles and creating strong frame for the ceiling. In principle, it is not much more difficult than, only in this case, the work is carried out with hands raised. Remember that it depends on the accuracy of the work whether your plasterboard ceiling will sag in 2-3 years or not.

STEP 1: we fix the hangers of the profiles to the ceiling. This should be done with anchors, since the dowel for a vertical surface is much worse.

STEP 2: growing profiles. Since 1 profile is not enough for the entire room, they must be fastened together. To do this, you need to purchase a special connecting fastener and fasten the profiles with it. The joints should be close to the suspension of the profile.

STEP 3: fixing profiles to hangers. It is necessary to evenly raise the profile by 2 edges (an auxiliary worker will not interfere here), screw one, rearrange the stepladder and stick the other edge. Further, according to the mark on the wall (where the profile is located), “grab” the profile over the entire area. We start fastening from the corners.

Important: never leave a profile without support on 1 or two self-tapping screws, as it weighs a lot and can break the attachment point with its weight or simply bend. At least 2 points in different corners of the profile, and preferably 3-4 points.

STEP 4: after screwing the corners, you need to check the profile with a level. Suitable tool length 250 centimeters. If somehow it was possible to screw it in crookedly, we unscrew it and adjust it with hangers in the right place.

STEP 5: in the same way we attach all the profiles in the middle of the room, moving from the corners to the center, we fasten the jumpers (the junctions of 2 sheets of drywall every 250 centimeters). This can be done with a special metal crab. We cut the jumpers from the profile and fasten them together.

STEP 6: sound insulation and insulation. If the installation of a metal frame is implied with the installation of a heater and an insulator, then it's time to take care of it at this stage. We cut mineral wool into large pieces and fasten it over the jumpers.

Important: use goggles, a respirator and gloves when styling mineral wool, it can get into the eyes and cause severe skin irritation.

Mounting the frame for drywall is the most complex and lengthy process, all subsequent work is done several times faster and will seem much easier (however, they are easier).

Fixing drywall to profiles

When the steel is already hanging on your ceiling, another field for creativity opens up ... After installing the frame from the metal profile, you can move on to the drywall itself. After purchasing the material, it must be put in room temperature with a relative humidity of not more than 85%, let it rest for several days. Remember that you can not put the sheets vertically and store in this way- they can deform under their own weight, especially if they were a little wet. Let's move on to the mounting process.

STEP 1: cut off the edges of each drywall with a clerical knife at an angle of 30-40%, so that later it would be easier to seal them with putty. This applies only to cut sheets, since pasted sheets already have such a chamfer initially.

STEP 2: we lift the sheet (an auxiliary worker will not interfere) and attach it in the corners, then we look for a profile along the line marked on the wall and fasten the drywall there. If you ignored such labels in the first section, you will have to look for a profile at random. At least 15 centimeters must be retreated from the edges so that the sheet does not prick, remember this!

STEP 3: we check all the screws so that the caps are flush with the surface of the material, otherwise it will not work normally to putty, and “obliquely crooked, if only alive” will not suit us.

Fixing GK sheets takes no more than an hour per small room, since the frame you already have is even and all that remains is to grab them to the profile with a screwdriver. The frequency of tightening screws is 20 centimeters.

Sealing, leveling and counting materials

After the sheets are attached, it is necessary to prepare the putty and apply it with a large spatula, make sure the corners are even, so that there is no excess finishing material the junction of walls and drywall. If you apply more, then you have to level the corners for a long time.

After the putty dries (6-8 hours), you can take a grout tape or paper and eliminate all “stains”, level the surface and prepare it for finishing. The ceiling can be painted desired color, do stretch ceiling, decorative plaster and everything you need.

Per room at 20 square meters you will have approximately the following amount of materials:

19 ceiling profiles in standard size;
110 hangers (fixing the profile to the ceiling);
8-9 sheets of GK 10 mm;
10 guide profiles (I'm molded to the wall);
24 crabs;
0.5 kg of self-tapping screws for fixing drywall.
30 dowels.

Having made simple calculations of the cost of hiring a working team, we can state that we saved 11,500 rubles by making a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands. Whether it makes sense to spend a couple of days and save this amount is up to you.

The joints of the connection of 2 metal profiles cannot be placed on the same line, they must be done at random, like laying bricks with a “bunch” in construction.
The use of sealing tape significantly reduces the noise level in the apartment, since the sound is not transmitted through the metal.
Get moisture-resistant drywall from a reputable manufacturer, its cost is slightly higher, but you will be sure that it will not “lead” and the edges will not break.
Use a screwdriver to screw the sheets, working with a screwdriver is simply unrealistic. Immediately buy an extra battery so that you can work continuously.
Finishing putty hides only small irregularities, so clean and apply the first layer as evenly as possible - it is actually the last.

If everything is done correctly and according to the instructions, the plasterboard ceiling will be no worse than the one made by the work team and 100 times better than it will be made by unfortunate guest workers at "half price"! We also suggest watching a video on how experienced builders make a plasterboard ceiling:

A suspended plasterboard ceiling allows you to hide all the irregularities of the floor slabs and passing communications. GKL is easy to cut and even bend, which simplifies the installation of the ceiling structure with your own hands. A single-level ceiling is considered easier to manufacture. If you need to visually enlarge the room or divide it into work areas, you will have to resort to the installation of a multi-level structure.

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare tools and materials.

Of the tools you will need:

From the materials you will need:

In addition to standard and moisture-resistant drywall, there are gypsum-fiber sheets, as well as moisture-fire-resistant plasterboard. For the manufacture of suspended ceilings in dry rooms will suit standard drywall. In rooms with a high level of humidity, for example, a bathroom or kitchen, moisture-resistant plasterboard should be used. Other types of drywall for home suspended ceilings are rarely used.

Production of a single-level suspended ceiling

It is easiest for an inexperienced person to make a single-level ceiling on their own.

There are several advantages to this design:

In the event of subsidence of the foundation of the house, the appearance of a single-level ceiling will remain unchanged;
Suspended structures take up a lot of space. A single-level model in this regard outperforms a multi-level ceiling;
Ease of installation and lower costs for the purchase of materials determine the main advantage of a single-level design over a multi-level counterpart.

The disadvantages include perhaps the impossibility of zoning the room, but this is easily corrected by a combination of different lighting fixtures.

Preparatory work and marking

The installation of the false ceiling frame is started before the walls are finished, but at this stage they should already be perfectly aligned. If there is an old finish on the ceiling, it is completely removed, and all lighting fixtures are also removed.

The markings for the frame begin from the walls where the starting profile will be installed. With a tape measure, measurements are made from floor to ceiling in all four corners of the room, as well as in the center of each wall. The starting point of the markup is the lowest corner of the room. If the suspended structure is supposed to be with built-in lighting fixtures, a distance of 90-100 mm is marked from the ceiling to the attachment point of the starting profile. The absence of built-in appliances allows you to reduce the distance to 50 mm.

The following marks are placed in two opposite corners of the room from the starting markup point. Now these points must be connected with lines, and they must be strictly parallel to the floor. So on this stage it turned out two walls with a marking line for attaching the starting profile. The last point is placed in the fourth corner of the room, drawing lines from it to two opposite corners.

On all four walls, the markings for the starting profile are ready and it is time to draw the grid for attaching the ceiling profile.
The first mark the lines of attachment of the longitudinal guide profile. The distance between the lines depends on the location of the GKL sheets. If longitudinal fastening of drywall is provided, then the step between the profile is maintained by 400 mm. When laying sheets transversely, the pitch is increased to 600 mm.

The last to mark the transverse lines. Here they maintain a step of 500 mm. At the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse lines, holes are made for attaching suspensions.

The video talks about marking a single-level ceiling:

To make the ceiling perfectly even, it is best to use a laser level during marking and making the frame.

Assembling a frame from a profile

The markup is ready, it's time to connect the frame elements.

Performing work on the installation of the frame, adhere to the following sequence:

If everything is fine with the frame, you can proceed to plasterboard sheathing.

The video shows the method of simplified installation of the frame in a large room:

Production of a multi-level suspended ceiling

The supporting base of a multi-level ceiling is the frame of the first level suspended ceiling we have already considered. All subsequent levels of the protruding structure are distinguished by a smaller area relative to the previous tier. If we take, for example, a three-level ceiling, then the third tier will be the smallest in size, and its supporting base will be the frame of the second tier.

The advantage of a multi-level ceiling is more justified from the design side. Various differences made on the ceiling, the figures change the geometry of the room. Designers, thus, zone the room, create the illusion of increasing space, combine the lighting of different parts of the room with built-in lighting fixtures.

Among the disadvantages of a multi-level ceiling, one can distinguish the complexity of mounting the frame, the high cost of materials, as well as the large weight of the finished structure.

Marking and frame manufacturing

So, the first level is ready, now it's time to build the second tier. Let's look at the box example. It is usually made up to 500 mm wide, and the height depends on the design project.

The manufacturing process of the second tier consists of the following steps:

After connecting all the elements, the frame of the second level is considered ready. All subsequent tiers are made using a similar technology.

The video tells how to assemble the second tier of the ceiling:

Sheathing the frame with drywall

Drywall fastening begins after the installation of all communications and the distribution of electrical wiring. The sheets are cut out on the floor, if necessary, holes for recessed fixtures are cut out with a crown. GKL is quite fragile, and it is better to lift large fragments to a height with an assistant.

Sheets are screwed with self-tapping screws in steps of 100–150 mm. A gap of about 2 mm is left between the joints, and the drywall ends themselves are cut off with a planer at an angle of 45 o. At the end of the fastening of all fragments of the GKL, the joints are sealed with a reinforcing mesh and putty, and the caps of the self-tapping screws are simply covered with the same solution. Edges of internal and outside corners structures are protected by metal perforated corners.

Suspended ceiling is ready. Now it remains to puttied, sanded and can be painted or wallpapered. As you can see, it is possible to make a drywall construction with your own hands, you just need to make every effort.

September 28, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and outdoor decoration(plaster, putty, tile, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works.

Now I will tell you how to do the installation of suspended plasterboard ceilings with your own hands in four stages, to properly prepare materials and select the necessary tools. Perhaps you have already come across such information, moreover, even on this site. But the fact is that each master brings his own nuances of installation, facilitating the work and improving its quality. If you are interested in my methods, then stay with me on the page. You will also have the opportunity to watch an interesting thematic video in this article as an addition.

GKL ceilings single-level

In most cases, installation plasterboard ceiling on one level is done in rooms up to 250 cm high to level the plane. Occasionally, too high ceilings are lowered in one tier in old-type houses, although, in such cases, several levels are most often made.

GKL parameter table

Abbreviation	View	General characteristics	Where applicable	Surface color	Marking color
GKL	Normal	No special properties	For rooms with normal humidity conditions	Grey	Blue
GKLV	moisture resistant	Covered with impregnated cardboard, has antifungal and hydrophobic additives in the core material	For rooms with normal and high humidity conditions	Green	Blue
GKLO	fire retardant	Has special reinforcing additives in the core material	Near heaters and open flames	Grey	Red
GKLVO	Moisture resistant and flame retardant	Combination of GKLV and GKLO properties	The combination of the use of GKLV and GKLO	Green	Blue

As I said above, you will need four steps to install a single-level plasterboard ceiling:

First of all, you need to prepare a rough surface, as well as pick up the right tools and materials;
The second stage will be the marking for the installation of the galvanized profile sheathing;
Then you will need to mount the frame from UD and CD profiles;
And at the last, final stage, you will proceed with the installation of drywall.

For leveling ceilings in 99% of cases, ceiling plasterboard is used. In special situations, such as high humidity, the presence or possibility of an open fire, or both, and the other together, GKLV, GKLO or GKLVO can be used.

Training

It would seem that if the surface is closed by GKL - what should be prepared there? But nonetheless. Those who live in old-style houses will immediately understand what I mean - this is a rounding at the junction of the wall and ceiling, which was made instead of ceiling plinth as a decorative ornament.

So, with a room height of 250 cm, this element will interfere with the installation of the UD profile along the perimeter, therefore, it must be knocked down. In addition, the instruction requires the removal of plaster that does not hold well, and in some cases you will also have to seal the joints between the concrete floors, but this is up to you to determine.

Of the tools you will need:

perforator for knocking down plaster and making holes for dowels;
electric or cordless drill (driver) for the assembly of the frame and the installation of drywall sheets;
special nozzle with lampshade to stop at a surface that does not allow the screw head to push through the paper;
metal scissors for cutting galvanized profiles;
drywall knife(or ordinary, construction);
water level or laser level;
choline(paint cord);
construction square, metric tape measure, pencil, nylon thread
possible (if you install recessed lights), set of hole saws for drywall.

You will also need not very many materials, these are:

ceiling drywall 6.5 mm or 8 mm thick;
CD and UD profiles, perforated hangers;
dowels and screws.

We mark the ceiling and walls under the crate

If you live in an apartment or house where the ceilings are no more than 250 cm, then, naturally, the space in height will be expensive for you, which means, first of all, you need to find the lowest point on the ceiling. Of course, this is easiest to do with a laser level, but, if you wish, you can also “by eye”, if you, of course, have a good eye.

And from it you will need to go down at least 2.5 cm and put a mark at this level in one of the corners. Further, this mark is transferred with the help of a level to each corner, more precisely to each of its sides, and then all this is connected by a chokeline into one solid line for a guide.

We will make the supporting part of the crate from the CD profile, which is located in 50 cm increments, that is, 5 profiles across the sheet. But for this we need to pay attention to the corners in the room. If they have 90 °, then all problems disappear automatically - we simply mark the ceiling after 50 cm for the supporting frame and that's it. But if the corners are not straight, then you have to play a little here.

We choose the most even wall along which the GKL will be mounted and relative to it we find an acute angle, from which we will start marking. Step back from this corner 50 cm and so go to the end with the same step. Then, from the first mark, using a construction square, make a line towards the opposite wall - so you can transfer this mark, and mark the opposite line from it.

Now it remains for you to connect the set marks with a chokeline through the ceiling, and you will get a markup for installing suspensions, but more on that a little further. For a visual understanding of what is happening, pay attention to the schematic drawing at the top - the step between the profiles of the crate in no place should exceed 50 cm (less is possible). If you are planning to install a chandelier and / or built-in, then it's time to make markings for them.

Lathing installation

The next step in the installation of plasterboard ceilings involves the installation of UD profiles along the reference line (along the perimeter) - the profile itself must be above the line so that you can see it. In fact, manufacturers on UD make holes with a pitch of 300 mm, but sometimes this does not happen. But you should not drill them separately from the wall.

Just put marks on the control line after 30 cm, attach the profile and make two holes at the same time - in the “udeshka” and in the wall.

If the plaster on the walls is good, then impact dowels can be used for fastening, but dowels with a diameter of 6 mm and self-tapping screws 50-70 mm long are usually used. At the joints, you can not connect the profiles in the form of a seam, but simply put one into the other (by the edge) - this way you will get the most even line.

Our ceiling is already marked, so you need to install suspensions along these lines at a distance of 60-70 cm, but if an increased load is meant on the ceiling, then after 40-50 cm. An increased load means GKLV with ceramic tiles- this option can be used on or in the bathroom.

Pay attention to the photo above - the suspension should be fixed inside the letter P, under the crossbar, but not behind the ears, since the suspension will be pulled back under load and this is inevitable.

Now you need to measure each CD profile - its length will be equal to the distance from the wall to the wall minus 5 mm for the thickness of the UD partition and the gap for free installation. Just don't cut all the profiles in the same pattern - the wall may be uneven and you may have problems (and it's good if the CD is longer than necessary!).

Insert all the CD profiles into the UD and pull them up with the ears of the hangers a little higher so that the thread can be pulled under them.

The thread is stretched approximately in the middle of the ceiling along the crate - on the lower shelves of the opposite UD, self-tapping screws for profiles are screwed in (their length is 9-11 mm, for which they received the popular name "fleas"). A nylon thread is tied and pulled onto these screws, along which all CD profiles are aligned.

The distance between the thread and the profiles should be maintained somewhere around 0.5 mm, so that in no case there is a touch, otherwise the level will fail. The ears of the screwed hangers are bent up or to the sides so that they do not interfere with the installation of the GKL in the future, although you can cut them off to use them for other purposes, and it is not necessary to remove the thread - you can leave it.

If any wiring is planned in the ceiling sinus, then do not forget to install it - preferably, pack the wires in a corrugated plastic or metal hose and attach it to the draft ceiling.

Drywall installation

So, the installation of the plasterboard ceiling is coming to an end and you just have to install the GKL on the batten profiles, which is not so difficult if everything else is done correctly.

But at the same time, certain rules must be observed. First of all, all fixed edges must be joined in the center of the profile - this is why it is so important correct markup for framing installation. You may, even most likely, have to trim the corner plasterboards - feel free to do this - this is quite normal.

Remember the list necessary tools we talked about the need for a special nozzle with a lampshade (PH-2 size), which will not allow the hat to push through the paper. So, look at the image above - you see three options and only one of them is correct, and it is most convenient to achieve this result with the help of such a nozzle.

Installation of plasterboard on the ceiling - an experienced master works

Do not try to repeat what you see in the top photo - this requires a lot of experience and skill - I show this only so that you understand what an experienced master can do. Even experienced drywall workers prefer to work with two or three people, and construction companies use special lifts, but this is already for very large installation areas.

The distance between the screws in one row (along the profile) should be no more than 30 cm, but always along the edges of the sheets, and if the assembly is made from pieces, then this distance will certainly decrease. Do not be upset when you mount the pieces, and gaps of the order of 2-5 mm are obtained between them - this is quite normal and such gaps are subsequently sealed with putty and strengthened with sickle, but this is the next stage of work.

During the installation of the GKL, do not forget to make holes for recessed fixtures and bring out the wiring under them (if any). And they can be provided only if the ceiling sinus allows it. For LED devices, you need a distance of at least 4 cm, and for the rest - at least 7 cm.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that Chinese drywall, which has 6.5 mm instead of the usual 8 mm, behaves no worse without load, but its price is less. I invite you to discuss this topic.

September 28, 2016

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