How to insulate a barn for almost nothing - a description of the easiest way to carry out work. How to insulate the hozblok with your own hands (insulation of the barn) How to insulate the ceiling in the barn with your own hands

03.05.2020

Often, in a subsidiary plot or on a small farm, it becomes necessary to insulate rooms, buildings where animals and birds are kept. Usually these structures are not capital, made of plank boards, plywood.

The purpose of insulation is to maintain a positive temperature throughout the winter without heating or with its minimum power - up to 2 kW per building of about 30 square meters, and also to make the insulation extremely cheap. But that doesn't mean bad. Savings occur on the finish, the "brand" of materials, the design of the fastening, and also because it is done by hand.

Simple slots - large heat leaks

It is necessary to insulate the chicken coop, barn, barn in a complex way. Most of the heat escapes with the exchange of air. No amount of heating can resist a draft...

First of all, you need to put a second glass on the sealant, if there is a window. Effective insulation windows - for the winter above the glass of 15 mm, install a plastic film on the slats on the sealant - a double-glazed window for the chicken coop. At a minimum, it is necessary to close the cracks in the windows, frames.

But there should be no non-adjustable gaps under the doors, windows - this is the basis of the insulation of any building.

How to insulate a chicken coop?

Where it is required to insulate a chicken coop, a poultry house or a barn, natural heaters are often “underfoot” in large quantities - straw, hay and wood shavings (small sawdust is not suitable).

So that any living creatures do not start in them, they need to be prepared. You will need lime (fluffy, crumbly) and this is the main cost - one volume of lime per 10 volumes of material. As well as - boric acid and blue vitriol are excellent anti-rot agents.

In order for the material to be used in shields, it must be strengthened by adding 1 part of cement to 10 parts of the material. A solution is made with the addition of antiseptics and mixed with the required amount of chips, hay, straw. It is laid in shields, on overlapping in a wet state, drying gains strength.

It is desirable to prepare hay and straw with a length of 20-30 mm, which is sometimes problematic and time-consuming. But it is the finely cut material that is easy to use and has the best heat-saving properties.

An alternative to all this is the use of foam, a very cheap insulation, especially if purchased in bulk. Sometimes it is cheaper, and most importantly faster and easier to install.

But lining with foam plastic will lead to a violation of vapor exchange in wood, structures may begin to rot and rot over time.

However, more often this is not critical for a chicken coop, besides, vapor barriers have to be used with other heaters, which also negatively affects the wood. Therefore, foam insulation of a barn, poultry house, chicken coop, as a very cheap insulation, can be recommended as a way out of the situation.

We insulate the ceiling in the chicken coop or barn

First of all, we insulate the attic floor. You will have to use a vapor barrier, you can use an ordinary dense plastic film. Without it, the insulation will get wet faster than dry. We cover with overlaps, over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe overlap with a twist on the walls.

If nothing will be stored in the attic, then it is enough to cover it with treated (but without cement) hay-straw with a layer 20–25 cm thick. But if you plan to walk regularly, then it is better to make flooring on a crate at least 20 cm high, taking into account the ventilation. gap (insulation thickness 17 cm).

Polyfoam dense from 25 kg/m cube. with a minimum thickness of 12 cm, it can be laid without a crate in two layers with dressing of the seams in layers, and on top of it throw boards, plywood, on which it will be possible to walk.

When using foam, it is desirable to seal all the cracks with crumbs on polyurethane glue.

How to insulate the walls of a barn, barn ...

Plank walls need to be converted into shields. From the inside there should be a dense layer that prevents steam, from the outside - more vapor-permeable. If there is no dense layer of material from the inside, then it is advisable to apply a vapor barrier from the inside in front of the straw insulation, as well as on the roof.

The order of work is to install from the outside (or from the inside, which is better?) Vertical bars 12 cm thick with a step of 600 mm and between them pour organic insulation with cement in series with filling the missing lining from the bottom up. Cover the outer cladding with something water-repellent, for example, even oil-workout.

A feature of the use of foam on the walls is the absence of a vapor barrier and careful sealing of cracks. Dense foam can be glued to the walls, and on top of it some kind of protection from ultraviolet radiation and water can be glued - the same thin plywood that can be painted on top. The recommended foam thickness is 10 cm.

Thermal insulation of floors and ground

Usually in a chicken coop, a barn, a barn, the floors are made on compacted soil with some kind of backfill. Their insulation often comes down to adding natural (without processing) straw, hay, shavings for livestock. You just need to remember to turn the contaminated layer over, change it in time.

The soil in winter is a natural heater for an outbuilding, a shed, a garage. A positive temperature can be maintained due to the heat of the earth. For this to happen, it is important to insulate the soil along the perimeter of the barn or poultry house to a width equal to the freezing depth in the area.

It is best to dig extruded polystyrene foam from 8 cm thick end-to-end to the foundation. But this is not cheap. Another option is all the same hay-straw 15-20 cm thick, covered from precipitation with shields, slate with a slope, and from the steam of the earth - roofing material. Or simply - hay with a thickness of 50 cm, covered with boards - piled up. Even when wet, such a layer will give the desired effect ....

As you can see, it is really not expensive to insulate a chicken coop or a barn. Such insulation, as a rule, is done by hand, but the laboriousness is not small, and the quality will depend on the thoroughness of execution ....

With the onset of cold weather, egg production of chickens decreases, and the risk of colds in birds increases. In regions with a harsh climate, in order to maintain an optimal temperature regime in winter, one has to resort to different ways insulation and heating of the chicken coop. All work will be done by hand. The main thing is to choose wisely thermal insulation material and follow the instructions for its installation. With insufficient natural heating, it makes sense to think about an artificial heat source.

What should be the temperature in the chicken coop in winter

When breeding laying hens, it is important to know what temperature should be in the chicken coop in winter so that the hens rush. Experienced poultry farmers call the following temperature parameters:

favorable temperature for keeping chickens ranges from + 12 ° C to + 15 ° C;
the minimum temperature in the chicken coop in winter is + 10 ° C - with a decrease in the indicator, feed consumption increases, since part of the nutrients is used to heat the body of birds;
the recommended temperature in the chicken coop for laying hens is about + 18 ° C - the organization of the "spring" microclimate contributes to an increase in egg production by 40%.

Insulated chicken shed

Most types of chickens are able to survive even with short-term negative values on the thermometer, however, such extreme conditions drastically reduce the performance of the bird. When determining how many degrees should be in the chicken coop in winter, it is necessary to take into account the age of the inhabitants of the house:

chickens on the 21st day of life - at least 21 ° C;
grown chicks from the 21st to the 50th day - the minimum temperature is + 16-17 ° C;
adult chickens - from + 10 ° С.

Creating a normal microclimate in the poultry house

Under favorable conditions, chickens are active - they drink water well, eat food, are mobile and are distributed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe poultry house. Crowding of birds testifies to insufficient heating, which is fraught with their suffocation.

Excessive warmth is also undesirable. High temperatures adversely affect the egg production of birds - the quality of the egg shell deteriorates and the mass of eggs decreases.

Signs of overheating birds:

rapid breathing;
lowering of wings and open beak;
intensive water consumption;
refusal of the main feed.

Excess heat has a negative effect on chickens

In addition to maintaining optimal temperature, in the chicken coop in winter it is important to ensure the stability of the microclimate. Poultry does not tolerate “jumps” in relative humidity and temperature fluctuations.

Warming the chicken coop with your own hands for the winter

All measures to prepare the house for the winter period with their own hands are divided into natural insulation and artificial heating. The first option involves the implementation of thermal insulation of the structural elements of the barn: walls, floors, roofs, windows and doors.

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool and isolon

It is advisable to take care of the insulation of the house even at the stage of its construction. In this case, it is not necessary to reduce the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe building. Let's designate the main ways how to insulate the walls of the chicken coop from the inside.

Option 1. Warming the chicken coop with glass wool. The material is characterized by low cost, good elasticity, resistance to pests, rodents and mold.

Work order:

From the inside of the walls, fill the crate of the rails. The thickness of the insulation of the walls of the chicken coop will be about 8-10 cm.
Place glass wool in the formed cells.
Place a vapor barrier on top of the insulation. Fiberglass is hygroscopic, so a vapor barrier cannot be neglected.
Sew up the design OSB boards or drywall.

glass wool between wooden slats

Using the same technology, another mineral wool is laid or the walls are lined with foam from the inside.

Option 2. The use of isolon. Reflective thermal insulation material is efficient, environmentally friendly and does not "hide" the space inside the room. The disadvantage of the method is the high cost of the insulation.

To achieve the greatest efficiency, a gap of 1.5-2 cm should remain between the wall and the insulation.

We will analyze step by step how to insulate a chicken coop with isolon:

Fill a grid of slats 1.5-2 cm thick on the wall. Cells with dimensions of 1 * 1.5 m should be formed, arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
Fix the isolon with nails, glue the joints with aluminum tape.
Fill an additional grate on top of the insulation.
Install the finish coat.

Thermal insulation of the poultry house with isolon

Budgetary insulation with shingles and natural materials

Option 3. Insulation with shingles - affordable and effective method . Moisten the clay abundantly, add sawdust and mix until smooth. Treat the walls with mortar - the layer thickness is about 3 cm. Seal the cracks that have appeared with a sand-clay mixture. After drying the shingles, whitewash the surface with quicklime.

Using shingles as insulation for a barn

Option 4. Laying natural insulation. To implement the method with your own hands, you will have to build a false wall from boards or OSB panels. Place sawdust, wood shavings or dry pine needles in the space between two walls.

Owners of compact structures are thinking about how to sheathe the chicken coop from the outside. The best option- Styrofoam or expanded polystyrene. Sheets are "planted" on glue or attached to the facade with plastic dowels. After grouting, reinforcement and plastering of thermal insulation is performed.

Sheathing the outer walls of the house with foam plastic

Warming the chicken coop with polystyrene foam increases the temperature inside the building by 4-5 ° C.

What materials are suitable for the floor

The insulated warm floor in the chicken coop is done according to the same scheme as for a residential building: a draft floor, wooden logs, a layer of insulation and a finishing coating of boards.

Scheme of the device of the subfloor

How to insulate the floor in a chicken coop? For the thermal insulation of a wooden floor with your own hands, the following materials are used:

Sawdust and expanded clay. Floor insulation in the chicken coop with expanded clay is affordable and easy to install. The material is poured between the installed lags, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer is 5-10 cm. By analogy, sawdust is also used. The lack of wood-shaving material is exposure to rodents.
Mineral wool. The heat insulator is placed in the space between the lags with the solid side up - it is indicated by a blue stripe. Under the mineral wool it is necessary to lay polyethylene, and on top - a vapor barrier. The thickness of the insulation is about 20 cm.
Styrofoam. For the installation of thermal insulation, you should not use vapor and waterproofing - the characteristics of the material do not change in a humid environment. Extruded polystyrene retains its original shape and is not exposed to rodents.

Instructions for floor insulation

Below are options for how to insulate a concrete floor in a chicken coop.

Method 1. Thermal insulation under semi-dry or wet screed . Under the cement-sand screed, it is better to lay polystyrene foam of maximum density.

Layer sequence:

Primer treatment deep penetration.
Waterproofing the floor with roofing felt or mastic.
Fixing the damper tape around the perimeter of the poultry house.
Placement of expanded polystyrene plates.
Shelter insulation with plastic wrap.
Installation of reinforcing mesh and floor screed.

Insulation of a concrete floor under a wet screed

Method 2. Warming along the lags. The process involves pre-installation of the log, laying of thermal insulation material and finishing the floor with boards or OSB boards.

Regardless of the floor arrangement, additional warm bedding is required for the winter for the chicken coop. Most often, a mixture of sawdust and shavings is used in a ratio of 1: 3, respectively. It is advisable to add moss, a little peat to the litter, and cover it with straw on top.

Important! Spruce sawdust in the chicken coop in winter has a disinfecting effect. The temperature inside the litter of 20-30 cm can reach 30°C.

Straw bedding for chickens

It is acceptable to warm the chicken coop with straw and dry grass. During the winter, the litter should be fluffed and a fresh layer added periodically.

How to prevent heat leakage through doors and windows

A large amount of heat escapes through window cracks and leaks in the door structure. The windows in the chicken coop are insulated with various improvised means: newspapers, foam rubber, cotton wool, self-adhesive tape, felt strip or pieces of fabric.

All existing gaps in the window frame must be sealed with insulation material. To minimize the risk of blowing through, seal the junction of the window profile with the frame with masking tape.

Thermal insulation of the window frame with foam rubber

In old buildings, the integrity of the window structure is often violated - the frame is skewed or "departs" from the walls. In this case, all existing holes must be treated with mounting foam or silicone sealant. As an additional protection against the cold, you can stretch and fasten the film.

When designing a new barn for birds, it is enough to provide one small window on the south or east side. Optimal solution- the creation of removable frames, which can be easily replaced in summer with a mesh for ventilation of the poultry house.

Be sure to check the tightness of the door to the harness and insulate the entrance to the chicken coop. The upholstery of a wooden or metal door leaf is carried out with mineral wool, isofol, polystyrene foam, penofol, foam rubber, synthetic winterizer, felt, batting or polyurethane foam.

Using batting to insulate a door

Before you insulate the door in the chicken coop, it must be removed from the hinges, dismantle the handle and lock. When using a "soft" thermal insulation material, the following procedure is followed:

Lay the door on a horizontal surface.
Take measurements and cut out an advising piece from thick batting, foam rubber or mineral wool.
Run a sample.
Prepare the upper upholstery from leatherette or dense raincoat fabric - it should overlap the door with an overlap of about 20 cm.
Put insulation on the door and fix it around the perimeter with nails or staples. Grab in several places inside the door leaf.
Stretch the upholstery from above and carefully fasten it on the outside of the door with decorative or ordinary nails.
If necessary, insulate the door from the inside.

Upholstery of the door leaf leatherette

What should be a warm roof

In the northern regions, it is recommended to build poultry houses with gable roof. The resulting attic provides additional thermal insulation for the entire structure and is used to store non-bulky items. To insulate the roof with your own hands, the same materials are suitable as for the walls.

Step-by-step instructions on how to properly insulate the roof of a chicken coop with an attic with isover or mineral wool:

Treat the load-bearing floor beams with an antiseptic and fire retardant to protect against decay, the development of pathogens and fire.
Cover the floor of the attic with vapor barrier film.
Lay mats of heat-insulating material between the beams and cover the insulation with a film waterproofing.
Sheathe the floor with drywall, boards or plywood.

Rolling insulation in the attic

Ceiling insulation in a chicken coop

In a shed house, the ceiling must be insulated. For work, it is better to choose light materials: polystyrene foam, mineral wool, foil polystyrene foam.

Consider how to insulate the ceiling in the chicken coop with foam with your own hands:

Inspect the ceiling and replace old rotten boards.
Handle wood flooring protective compounds.
Create from wooden beams crate.
Place the foam in the cells and fix it to the ceiling with dowels with hats or with glue.
Cover the insulation with wooden clapboard or sheets of moisture-resistant drywall.

Styrofoam ceiling insulation technology

An interesting and affordable option for thermal insulation of the ceiling is the use of reeds. First you need to prepare "reed mats":

The collection of reeds is carried out at the beginning of winter, after the leaves fall off. Cut the stems close to the base.
Peel each stem and spread the reeds on level ground for drying.
Grouping the reeds, form reed mats about 5-8 cm thick.
Fix the shape with a rope for twisting the bales. The approximate size of the mat is 1 * 2 m.

Homemade mat from river reeds

The disadvantage of insulating the ceiling with reeds is the fire hazard of the material. When using an artificial source of heating (stove, incandescent lamps), it is better to refuse the use of river reed.

Heated barn for chickens

In regions with long and severe winters, where frosts below 10 ° C are not uncommon, it will be necessary to maintain the optimal temperature regime by an artificial method. We will figure out how to competently organize the heating of the chicken coop in winter and the better to heat the house.

Organization of furnace heating

When deciding how to heat the chicken coop in winter, it is necessary to build on the dimensions of the barn and the available resources. With free access to solid fuel, some prefer to use a wood-burning stove. An option for budget heating is often a home-made stove burelyan or potbelly stove.

The organization of cheap solid fuel heating of a chicken coop has a number of nuances:

the heating elements of the oven must be isolated from birds;
high fire hazard - the floor of the barn is filled with flammable bedding;
the need to equip the room with a chimney and ventilation system;
the combustion process requires constant monitoring and the addition of fuel.

Making a solid fuel stove for a barn

The simplest do-it-yourself chicken coop stove can be made from a lawn balloon. The furnace is a chamber of two compartments: the upper one is for fuel combustion, the lower one is for collecting ash. There is a grid between the compartments.

A hole is cut out in the used cylinder and a furnace door is installed. Metal supports are welded to the bottom, and a chimney. To protect birds from burns, it is advisable to shackle a potbelly stove in a chicken coop in a steel casing.

Alternatives furnace heating:

Heating a chicken coop with gas is practiced in large farms, since the supply of a gas main and the installation of a separate boiler is an expensive undertaking for a chicken coop. This method is inappropriate for use in private households.
A diesel stove is not suitable for a chicken coop due to the complexity of its design. The supply of liquid fuels requires injection equipment and pre-filtration.
Water heating chicken coop. If the poultry house is adjacent to the house, then it will be possible to draw a water circuit from the boiler through it. For a small barn, it is enough to lay one or two pipes around the perimeter, in spacious rooms heating system complete with radiators.

Electric heating

Among farmers, the two most popular options for electric heating for a chicken coop are:

infrared lamp;
infrared ceiling heater.

Heating a poultry shed with an IR lamp

A red lamp with a power of 250 W is enough to heat a chicken coop with an area of 12 square meters. m. The efficiency of the heat lamp allows you to not turn it off in the cold season, when the birds lack sunlight.

Additional benefits of a heating lamp:

local target heating of objects, not premises;
maintaining a normal level of humidity;
drying bedding;
maintaining oxygen in the poultry house;
10% of energy heating lamps spend on additional lighting;
ease of installation and replacement.

Important! The distance between the lamp and surrounding surfaces should be at least 0.5 m. Closer objects may overheat.

Ceiling IR heater for poultry house

Infrared heater in a chicken coop it works on the same principle as a lamp. An electric heater is convenient in that it can be mounted on the ceiling - the birds will not be able to get too close to the equipment and get burned.

The maximum power of the heater in the chicken coop is 500 watts. If the performance of one model is not enough to maintain the temperature in the entire barn, then the room is equipped with additional "heating points".

The optimal solution is a heater with a thermostat from Teplofon. The built-in temperature switch turns off the device when the set air parameters in the house are reached and turns it on when the room cools down. Such models are considered the most economical and energy-saving heaters for the chicken coop.

The fan heater is not efficient enough to heat the house

Possible options electric heating:

A fan heater for a chicken coop can be taken with a small power (1-2 kW). Such a unit will heat a small room up to + 16 ° С. The disadvantage of the method: the risk of a quick failure of the motor, the need for regular cleaning of the spiral from dust.
Heating with infrared film is an expensive method. In addition to the IR film, you need to buy a mounting kit, a reflective substrate, a thermostat and plywood for floor or ceiling sheathing. The distance from the heating surface of the film to the perches is about a meter. The film underfloor heating in the chicken coop must have a moisture-proof coating.
An oil cooler in a chicken coop is a temporary fix. The device warms up the air for a long time and consumes a lot of electricity.
Heating a chicken coop with a convector is more economical than an oil counterpart. After turning on, the unit immediately starts to heat the air. The disadvantage of the convector is uneven heating of the room. Temperature fluctuations reach 10°C.

Installation of a "warm ceiling" from IR film

Particular attention in the construction of a barn for laying hens and broilers should be given to the natural insulation of walls, floors, roofs, windows and doors. Experienced poultry farmers recommend using IR lamps or heaters as artificial heating - they are safe and allow you to regulate the temperature of the poultry house.

If there is a danger of flooding, it is better to treat the walls with a penetrating solution, at the moment this is the best protection for the premises from moisture. Insulation sheets are easiest to glue, after which the surface is covered with a reinforcing mesh and plastered. Styrofoam will provide excellent thermal insulation. It is worth noting that when insulating external walls with foam plastic 10 cm thick or more, internal insulation you can not do. Another option is to stuff guide bars along the walls, after which the foam is inserted between the bars, and the surface is sewn up with wood or moisture-resistant sheets. Many developers prefer to use mineral wool; the process of its installation does not differ from polystyrene foam. If the insulation will be carried out under the plaster, a solid insulation is used, if under the bars - soft mats or rolled material. Another option is insulation with sprayed polyurethane foam. At the moment it is the most reliable and durable insulation. It has no seams, it is resistant to moisture and has high thermal insulation properties. But the price of this solution is much higher than others. Spraying is carried out between the bars, after which the surface is sewn up - everything is very simple Ceiling insulation As a rule, the main problems with the microclimate in the basement are associated precisely with poor-quality insulation of the upper partition. Therefore, it must be done. There are several basic options for insulating the cellar from above. Let's consider each of them. You can use foam: fill the slats, insert insulation between them and seal all seams with polyurethane foam. Styrofoam can be used both on walls and on the ceiling. You can fill the crate at a distance of 30 cm from the ceiling with 40 cm cells, you can weld it from metal. Sealed polyethylene bags with moss, straw and other natural materials are stuffed into the formed space. You can use polyurethane foam spraying, but it will cost a significant amount. Insulation of the door Many people, when insulating the cellar, forget that a significant part of the coolness leaves through a poor-quality door. It is best to make a vestibule with two doors. But still, it is better to insulate the inner fabric additionally. The easiest way to paste over it with foam is simple and effective method insulation. Based on materials from the site: http://moypodval.ru aquariumfan.ru How to build a barn and insulate it yourself cheaply? Step by step + Photo and Video If you live in a private house, then you have some opportunities that residents of state-owned apartments do not have. You can grow your own vegetables, fruits, get your own livestock and treat yourself to a fresh, environmentally friendly product. True, the cattle still need to be kept somewhere. And here already someone is into something much - they drive the poor cattle wherever they get, even into rooms that are completely unsuitable for that. In this article, we will try to give recommendations on how to insulate the barn on your own. barn construction

How to insulate the door in the barn with your own hands - a master class with a photo

Watch my master class step by step photos how to insulate the door in the barn with your own hands.

Hello!

Here, I already wrote about how to build a shed of sleepers with my own hands, but as it turned out that one shed is not enough for me ...

In general, it went like this...

I built a shed and attached a firewood shed, a coal burner to it, and all sorts of rubbish was still stored there. The shed was not enough for me, and I decided to insulate this building and use it as a second additional shed (this will be a little later in another article on the construction of a bullpen) and there was a door that was not insulated.

I decided, of course, to insulate it, so that later it would be possible, they are not afraid that my bulls will freeze!

For this I needed:
Boards (Slab) and 2-3 bars 5 cm thick and at least 10 cm wide, and 2 or 3 pieces it will depend on how many sheds there will be! See below.
Insulation type "Ecover" or "Ursa"

Nails or screws ... who cares. I have used both.

Canopies 2 or 3 pieces (if you cut the boards, then it’s better to plant a door on 3 canopies, because it will add weight).

5 meters of roofing felt or film \ oilcloth.

Furniture stapler and staples

So let's get started!
For those who wish to assemble such a door from scratch, I will say right away ... DIMENSIONS are EVERYTHING here! If you have shifted a little, check and immediately correct your shortcomings, otherwise the whole door will lead, so you yourself will not be happy and you will start remembering me 😉

We insulate the door in the barn with our own hands

I had a barn door like this.

And this is the thickness

We take the bars and fill them around the perimeter of the door so that it would then fit into the opening.

And we check the whole thing! Now, when stuffed, we begin to measure the boards.

We take the boards along the width of the door and nail them with a “pocket” so that the insulation would then fit between the boards.

This is how it should look like!

Then we stuff them on all the doors, gradually installing insulation between the boards.

It should turn out like this:

Now all the cracks must be filled with mounting foam. Then cut off the excess foam with a knife.

When everyone is done, we cover it all with a film, oilcloth or roofing material (which is the first that comes to hand).

This is so that in winter, when the temperature will vary greatly, our insulation does not get wet, does not cake, and does not become unusable in one season!

Then we install handles and nail skirting boards that will protect animals from strong drafts.

The plinth should close the gap between the door and the jamb, so that the wind could not “dig” the road.

All! Now I will explain a little why my door is so crooked. In general, so...

I live in the village, I don’t have much money, and then I also have to buy food. So it turned out that a friend told me that nearby at the sawmill they sell boards cheaply “not standard” ...

If you process them, then nothing will remain in width, so I decided to do it this way! Whoever has the opportunity, do it cleanly, then you will have less drafts!

Thank you all for your attention. Gorod_Omsk was with you! I wish you all everything you wish for yourself!

www.sami-svoimi-rukami.ru

How to insulate a barn with your own hands - cost-effective ways + Video

Living in a private home opens up new possibilities. Home-grown vegetables and fruits are much tastier than market ones! And homemade eggs are just right for vegetables, and milk for eggs ... But where to keep animals? All structures on the site, including unsuitable ones, are used. In this article, we will consider options for how to insulate a barn at no extra cost with your own hands.

Construction and insulation - we act outside the barn

Rural residents hardly need to be explained what pets are and how to care for them. But yesterday's "urban", who decided to move closer to nature, everything is new! As a rule, the first in the list of pets, not counting dogs and cats, are chickens. In spring and summer, caring for them is not at all difficult, the main thing is to provide quality food and a canopy where they can hide from the sun. But in winter, the question is different - you can’t invite a chicken “mob” led by a pugnacious rooster into the house for the whole winter, and animals simply freeze in the tool shed.

The issue should be resolved quickly and efficiently. And, as everyone thought at that moment, preferably - inexpensively. Even a leaky tool shed can be turned into a warm room for the winter with your own hands. The easiest option is to knock down from the boards wooden frame, hollow inside.

How to insulate a barn from the outside with your own hands - a step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Frame the Walls

The back wall of the frame will be the existing surface of the walls, and we will hammer the front wall out of the boards. Suitable even not quite smooth. But what about the cracks? There is one tried and tested method - the boards are nailed with an overlap! First, two boards are nailed to the bars, between which there is a distance for the third. Insert the middle one so that top part entered under the first board, and the lower part covered the second board from above. It will turn out a "herringbone" through which no wind will break through. The advantage of this design is that it is protected from drying out, because if we just put together the boards butt-to-butt, sooner or later large gaps formed between them.

Step 2: Fill the frame with insulation

The space between parallel walls can be insulated with your own hands in different ways. If funds allow, buy mineral wool or blow out the voids with polyurethane foam. However, initially we agreed to save money, which means it's time to remember the ways of warming for the winter, which were used by our grandparents. What could be easier than sawdust! The material is almost free - at the nearest sawmill this stuff is at least heaps, for a bottle of something stronger you bargain with the watchman.

It is desirable to take sawdust dry and small. To prevent rodents from getting into them, it is enough to mix wood with fluffy lime - 1 part of lime is enough for 25 parts of sawdust. When insulating with sawdust, the space between parallel walls should be at least 25 cm. The prepared material is covered in layers, constantly ramming. Over the next two weeks, the insulation will still shrink - do not forget to add more sawdust after a while.

Step 3: Insulate the ceiling

In the case of the ceiling, the same frame is created. But unlike walls, a layer of high-quality waterproofing is also laid on top of the thermal insulation. Simply covering with slate or tiles is not enough; there must be a layer of roofing material or plastic film between them. The most important thing at all stages is to prevent the penetration of moisture into the sawdust. To prevent this from happening, many pack sawdust in plastic bags, and then carefully place it in the space between the walls.

Step 4: Insulate the floor

To insulate the floor with your own hands, it is important to make a mound of soil at least 10 cm high above the main level. Then clay is poured and compacted. The disadvantage of this method is in the dirt, which will always be inside the barn. If you want to make a clean and durable warm floor, it is recommended that instead of an embankment of soil, make an embankment of expanded clay and pour a cement-sand screed over it. Only this should be done in advance, in the warm season.

Shingles - an environmentally friendly way

Clay and straw is another a budget option do-it-yourself insulation, which, moreover, is absolutely safe from the point of view of ecology. To this day, clay and straw are used to make adobe (lampach, valek, clay block) - clay bricks, which combine both insulation and the basis for the walls of the shed. Straw mixed with clay acts as a reinforcing material, so that the clay does not crack or crumble.

Under a layer of plaster, adobe is able to serve for many decades. So if you intend to build a barn for the winter from scratch, consider this budget option. Clay bricks in the villages used to be made by all relatives - there will be a reason to get together. If the barn has already been built, the clay and straw option is still relevant. Do-it-yourself warming of the barn should be carried out from the inside - a mixture of materials is applied to a previously prepared shingle.

Shingles - wooden planks stuffed from the inside of the room. First, one layer of planks is stuffed diagonally, and then the second in the opposite direction. To prepare the solution, first soak the clay (sour cream consistency) and add straw in portions. The resulting solution should be thick enough so that it does not slip from the surface. Let the mixture cool for a bit before you start working.

The clay mixture is applied to the walls with their own hands from the bottom up. The layer thickness is at least 3 cm. Use a spatula to make it easier to level. At the corners, the layer thickness can be increased up to 5 cm by rounding them. When drying, cracks may appear - this is not a problem. They should be covered with a solution of clay and sand (1: 2). The final stage is whitewashing the walls with lime.

How to insulate a barn - we work from the inside

Shingles, although a budget option, will take you a lot of time. If you value time, then instead of budget options, you can use more costly, but also more efficient in terms of speed of work. These include the option of insulation with mineral wool and foam. It makes no sense to talk about the merits of materials - we have already talked about this more than once in articles devoted to these heat insulators. Recall the shortcomings - mineral wool is easily saturated with moisture, as a result of which it loses its thermal insulation qualities, and also cakes over time.

Styrofoam is devoid of these shortcomings, however, it has little strength and needs additional protection from curious animals.

When insulating with mineral wool in a checkerboard pattern, nails are stuffed onto the walls to create a reinforcing mesh. Rolls of mineral insulation are unwound and laid on the walls, while a reinforcing mesh is created with the help of a rope that will hold the wool in position. Mesh is not necessary if you use rigid or semi-rigid slabs instead of soft rolls. But in this case, you will need to make a crate of boards with your own hands.

The distance between the boards should correspond to the width of the plates, and even be a couple of millimeters less so that the plates fit snugly into the space. How to insulate a barn with mineral wool for the winter? The secret is to prevent the material from getting wet due to moisture condensation.. And therefore, a layer of vapor barrier is stuffed over the insulation - glassine or more modern options membranes.

Styrofoam insulation inside the barn is even easier. If the base is strong, you can glue the insulation boards with your own hands on any available glue, even on ordinary PVA. Suitable and mounting foam, and liquid nails. For greater strength, it is possible to fix the plates together with the adhesive base using special dowels. In any case, after this, it is imperative to protect the material from mechanical damage. Any sheet material will do. In a chicken coop, this can be flat slate, and in a barn for small horned thinness, sheets of plywood.

Heating - a radical way to make the barn warm

If winter has caught you suddenly, and the barns with animals turned out to be poorly insulated, a radical way to increase the temperature inside the premises is to provide heating for the winter. Heating can be electric or wood burning. In the first case, heaters are used, in the second, a stove is built. Heaters are a temporary solution to the problem, but the stove should be installed even in insulated rooms.

The fact is that thermal insulation does not warm, but only prevents heat from leaving the barn. The stove will allow you to quickly and cost-effectively heat the air for comfortable life your pets. What to make a stove from, you decide. Just keep in mind that brick structures take a long time to heat up, but then take a long time to cool down. Metal stoves heat up almost instantly, but then also cool down quickly.

Insulated doors will help keep the heat inside the barn. It is best if the door leaf consists of two independent halves. To release the animals into the yard or into the aviary for walking, it will be enough to open the bottom door. Warm air accumulated on top, will not be able to leave the room. And in the summer, the top half will make it easier for you to clean the barn - through it you can throw fresh manure out.

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what should be the temperature and how to insulate

With the onset of cold weather, egg production of chickens decreases, and the risk of colds in birds increases. In regions with a harsh climate, in order to maintain optimal temperature conditions in winter, one has to resort to various methods of warming and heating the chicken coop. All work will be done by hand. The main thing is to correctly choose the heat-insulating material and follow the rules for its installation. With insufficient natural heating, it makes sense to think about an artificial heat source.

What should be the temperature in the chicken coop in winter

favorable temperature for keeping chickens ranges from + 12 ° C to + 15 ° C;
the minimum temperature in the chicken coop in winter is + 10 ° C - with a decrease in the indicator, feed consumption increases, since part of the nutrients is used to heat the body of birds;
the recommended temperature in the chicken coop for laying hens is about + 18 ° C - the organization of the "spring" microclimate contributes to an increase in egg production by 40%.

Insulated chicken shed

chickens on the 21st day of life - at least 21 ° C;
grown chicks from the 21st to the 50th day - the minimum temperature is + 16-17 ° C;
adult chickens - from + 10 ° С.

Creating a normal microclimate in the poultry house

Excessive warmth is also undesirable. High temperatures adversely affect the egg production of birds - the quality of the egg shell deteriorates and the mass of eggs decreases.

Signs of overheating birds:

rapid breathing;
lowering of wings and open beak;
intensive water consumption;
refusal of the main feed.

Excess heat has a negative effect on chickens

In addition to maintaining the optimum temperature, it is important to ensure the stability of the microclimate in the chicken coop in winter. Poultry does not tolerate “jumps” in relative humidity and temperature fluctuations.

Warming the chicken coop with your own hands for the winter

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool and isolon

Option 1. Warming the chicken coop with glass wool. The material is characterized by low cost, good elasticity, resistance to pests, rodents and mold.

Work order:

From the inside of the walls, fill the crate of the rails. The thickness of the insulation of the walls of the chicken coop will be about 8-10 cm.
Place glass wool in the formed cells.
Place a vapor barrier on top of the insulation. Fiberglass is hygroscopic, so a vapor barrier cannot be neglected.
Sew up the structure with OSB or drywall boards.

Laying glass wool between wooden battens

Using the same technology, another mineral wool is laid or the walls are lined with foam from the inside.

To achieve the greatest efficiency, a gap of 1.5-2 cm should remain between the wall and the insulation.

We will analyze step by step how to insulate a chicken coop with isolon:

Fill a grid of slats 1.5-2 cm thick on the wall. Cells with dimensions of 1 * 1.5 m should be formed, arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
Fix the isolon with nails, glue the joints with aluminum tape.
Fill an additional grate on top of the insulation.
Install the finish coat.

Thermal insulation of the poultry house with isolon

Budgetary insulation with shingles and natural materials

Option 3. Insulation with shingles - an affordable and effective method. Moisten the clay abundantly, add sawdust and mix until smooth. Treat the walls with mortar - the layer thickness is about 3 cm. Seal the cracks that have appeared with a sand-clay mixture. After drying the shingles, whitewash the surface with quicklime.

Using shingles as insulation for a barn

Owners of compact structures are thinking about how to sheathe the chicken coop from the outside. The best option is polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. Sheets are "planted" on glue or attached to the facade with plastic dowels. After grouting, reinforcement and plastering of thermal insulation is performed.

Sheathing the outer walls of the house with foam plastic

Warming the chicken coop with polystyrene foam increases the temperature inside the building by 4-5 ° C.

What materials are suitable for the floor

The insulated warm floor in the chicken coop is done according to the same scheme as for a residential building: a subfloor, wooden logs, a layer of insulation and a finishing coat of boards.

Scheme of the device of the subfloor

How to insulate the floor in a chicken coop? For the thermal insulation of a wooden floor with your own hands, the following materials are used:

Sawdust and expanded clay. Floor insulation in the chicken coop with expanded clay is affordable and easy to install. The material is poured between the installed lags, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer is 5-10 cm. By analogy, sawdust is also used. The lack of wood-shaving material is exposure to rodents.
Mineral wool. The heat insulator is placed in the space between the lags with the solid side up - it is indicated by a blue stripe. Under the mineral wool it is necessary to lay polyethylene, and on top - a vapor barrier. The thickness of the insulation is about 20 cm.
Styrofoam. For the installation of thermal insulation, you should not use vapor and waterproofing - the characteristics of the material do not change in a humid environment. Extruded polystyrene retains its original shape and is not exposed to rodents.