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How to lay tiles on a wooden floor. Methods for laying tiles on a tree in a house: dry floor leveling, wet screed, express option How to lay tiles on a wooden floor

In the bathroom and kitchen as floor covering it is recommended to use ceramic tiles that are not afraid of moisture, are easy to clean and look aesthetically pleasing. But the owner of a private house often faces the question of whether it is possible to combine wooden base tiled, and how to tile on a wooden floor?

Failure to comply with the rules for preparing a wooden base and installing tiles leads to sad consequences:

  • the floor covering is deformed, cracked due to the movement of the wooden base;
  • the wooden floor in the bathroom or kitchen is damaged by rot, destroyed.

Wood is a natural material that is subject to deformation under the influence of humidity and temperature. environment. The tile requires a base that is resistant to deformation. To remove this contradiction, certain preparation technologies are used. wooden structures, special attention is paid to the choice of materials for the installation of tiled flooring, which must be airtight.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor is allowed in houses whose shrinkage period has ended or is nearing its end. Between the tiled cladding and the wooden base, a layer with damping properties is needed, which will absorb the movement of the base. At the same time, this layer will protect the tree from moisture penetration, and prevent biological damage to floor structures.

Preparing a wooden structure

Before laying tiles on a wooden floor, you need to put it in order. The skirting boards and the door frame trim are removed, the old floor is completely dismantled, the floorboards are sorted out - damaged elements must be replaced with new ones, varnish, paint or the top layer of wood that has absorbed dirt is removed from the old floorboards.

To remove paint or varnish from old floorboards, the following methods are used:

  • Mechanical. The paintwork is peeled off with a metal brush or sandpaper. Power tools will speed up the work.
  • Chemical. A special wash dissolves varnish and paint, but work must be carried out in a well-ventilated area, using personal protective equipment.
  • Thermal. The outer side of the boards is heated with a building hair dryer, under the influence of high temperatures the paint swells and is easily removed with a spatula.

The upper, contaminated layer of wood is removed with a manual or electric planer. Prepared floorboards are treated with an antiseptic and a water-repellent agent (or universal composition) - this will extend the life of the wooden base of the tiled floor.

Carefully inspect the logs - the reliability of the floor depends on their condition. You should first calculate the load on the base, based on the mass of wooden flooring, tiled cladding and materials that will also be used to create a multi-layer structure. It may be necessary to increase the lag section or reduce the step between them. Logs are also treated with an antiseptic and water repellent.

The next stage is the installation of logs and boardwalk. It is important to avoid height differences and creaking; for this purpose, the logs are fixed by checking the horizontal level. To insulate the structure, the gap between the subfloor and the top flooring is filled with expanded clay of small or medium size. This heat insulator is not afraid of moisture and contributes to its removal from wooden structures.

Between the backfill surface and the flooring, a ventilation gap of 5-6 cm should be left. It is also required to provide a gap of 3-5 cm between the wooden floor and the walls so that the flooring does not swell when the wood expands under the influence of heat and moisture.

Base mounting

A vapor barrier is laid on top of the lag - a layer of kraft paper with a polymer coating. Next, the flooring is mounted, for which you can use:

  • cement-bonded particle boards up to 20 mm thick;
  • finished boards.

Option 1.

The use of DSP has a number of advantages: they are characterized by durability, resistance to biological damage, increased moisture resistance. Cement particle boards do not contain components harmful to human health. This material is suitable as a base for tiles.

DSP boards are attached to the lags with self-tapping screws. The stacking of elements is carried out with a shift of half the width for structural rigidity. The joints between the plates are filled mounting foam to create a waterproof base. The base should be treated with a primer (mastic), which increases the water-repellent properties of the material.

Option 2.

It is better to lay tiles on a wooden plank floor if the flooring is assembled from boards attached to the logs with self-tapping screws. Between the boards leave a gap of 3-5 mm to compensate for the expansion. This design is not prone to loosening and there is practically no risk that the floor will swell over time.

If it is planned to lay the tiles on a wooden base, a rolled waterproofing material is laid on top of it in two layers. The overlaps of the strips during the installation of each layer must be at least 15 cm, the joints are glued with reinforced mounting tape. The second layer of waterproofing is laid with a shift so that the seams are not located directly on top of each other. The waterproofing material must extend at least 10 cm onto the walls.

A reinforced screed 10 cm thick is mounted on top of the waterproofing. It is recommended to use a modified composition with increased elasticity and resistance to cracking. An elastic screed compensates for the movements of the wooden base. The screed is laid along the beacons in the direction from the far corner to the doorway. After the material has hardened (after 3 days), the surface is made strictly horizontal with a thin layer of self-leveling mixture.

Option 3.

If it is in good condition, moisture-resistant plywood sheathing is mounted on top of the boardwalk, all joints are filled with mounting foam. After removing excess hardened foam, the surface of the base is impregnated with an antiseptic and water repellent.

Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, a paint grid is attached to it and a layer of a special solution is applied, which consists of water, coarse sand and liquid glass (in a ratio of 1:2:2). Tiles can be laid on a dry surface. As an elastic screed over a wooden base, it is also allowed to use a special polyurethane adhesive.

Note! Materials such as chipboard, GVL and ordinary plywood are not recommended to be used to prepare the floor in the bathroom for facing - they are less resistant to moisture and require high-quality waterproofing. Laying tiles on a wooden floor, the flooring of which is made of boards or chipboard, is a more reliable option.

The kitchen floor allows the use of moisture-resistant plywood, and other materials are suitable for preparing the base for flooring in dry rooms.

Regardless of the chosen option for preparing the base, before laying the tiles, the technological gap around the perimeter of the flooring is filled with mounting foam.

How to lay tiles

Laying ceramic tiles on a wooden floor begins with checking the quality of the base - it must be flat and horizontal. It is recommended to use an adhesive with a high modulus of elasticity.

The laid tile, clinker or porcelain stoneware looks aesthetically pleasing if you follow the technology of work, which is carried out in several stages:

  • The layout is thought out (ceramic tiles can be laid in straight rows, apart, diagonally), depending on the option chosen, marking is performed. With a standard layout, the first line is drawn along the central axis of the room at a right angle to the wall. The second line is perpendicular to it, also along the central axis.
  • Perform a rough layout, starting from the center. If necessary, shift the starting lines so that the tiles lie symmetrically near the bathtub or other plumbing fixtures or to minimize the amount of trimming.
  • Remove tiles from the floor. Start laying ceramic tiles on the wood floor from the intersection of the starting lines towards the far corner. Apply the adhesive with a medium spatula to an area of ​​​​the floor, an area of ​​\u200b\u200babout one square meter. Then lay the tile with the back side, focusing on the marked lines, and press firmly. The first row is laid along one of the lines to the end of the area with the applied adhesive.
  • Use plastic crosses so that the joints are evenly thick, or install the flooring without joints if the characteristics of the tile allow it.
  • Next, the tiles on the wooden floor are laid in the direction from the center to the walls. It is important to ensure that the cladding elements are located in the same plane. If the tiles have different thicknesses, this is leveled out due to the thickness of the adhesive layer.
  • Having laid the lining of whole tiles, they begin to fill the remaining gaps along the walls. Using a tape measure, measure each area to accurately cut the tile, taking into account further priming.
  • The tile laid on the floor is covered with a primer after the adhesive layer has hardened. If the tile already has a primer layer (this is indicated by the manufacturer), processing is not required.
  • Using a rubber spatula, the seams are filled with a solution or a special compound that does not allow moisture to pass through. Excess material must be immediately removed from the surface of the cladding.
  • The finished tiled floor is rubbed to a shine with a dry sponge.

Answering the question whether it is possible to lay a floor covering of tiles, clinker or porcelain stoneware in the damp rooms of a house with a wooden floor, it can be argued that this is quite realistic and such a coating will last a long time.

The process of laying tiles on wood flooring has changed a lot in recent decades. If earlier tiles were laid on top of wood on cement mixed with sand, and such a mixture heavily loaded the wood base, today everything has become easier. Here step sequence works at different options foundation state. The amount of work and, of course, their cost depends on the quality of the foundation.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor - scheme

Case 1. If the wood floor is in good condition

We inspect and process the surface under the tile - the base must be rigid. We check the boards, fix the floor, eliminating the creak. We treat the surface with a sanitary composition from mold.

We lay a waterproofing layer: PVC film or roofing material with bitumen.

The prepared surface is covered with sheets of gypsum fiber. They are screwed to the floor with screws. Further, directly laying ceramics on GVL. Drywall must be moisture resistant. You need to lay it apart, then compress it with self-tapping screws around the perimeter, step 15 cm.

We glue GVL at the joints with special glue, drill arbitrary holes for ventilation, prime GVL (primer deep penetration) and let it dry.

We apply glue suitable for working with drywall on the finished surface and lay the tiles as on a regular surface.

Laying tiles: prepare the tools, dilute the dry adhesive mixture. Now you need to choose the most illuminated corner and apply glue to a small area. Lay the tile on top, not forgetting the crosses, press it firmly to the surface. Tap the tile with a rubber mallet to remove excess adhesive. Check the horizontal laying level. After completion of work, wipe the ceramic coating from the adhesive. The seams are overwritten in a couple of days, when the solution dries. Crosses are removed first.

Case 2. How to lay tiles if there are only logs and the floor is rotten

If the floor is rotten or the boards are worn out, you need to replace them and then lay the ceramics.

Remove the old top layer (linoleum, parquet board etc.), remove the middle layer - chipboard (there may be DSP \ plywood, meaning any coating), then we remove the plank surface with a nail puller, which is attached directly to the logs.

We check the bearing bars for integrity, cover them with a moisture-proof composition, set them according to the level. Between the lags we lay a waterproofing layer (film, coating), leaving allowances.

We pour expanded clay on the coating between the lags, with a layer equal to the height of the lag, fasten the boards on top. This guarantees heat and good sound insulation.

We attach the boards to the screws across the bars, always remembering the gaps, on average, 5-10mm. Then we foam the cracks at the joints. We cover the base with a hydrosubstrate, lay the GVL, and then everything, as in the first case.

Case 3. Screed instead of an old wooden floor

This is the most expensive option for preparing the base for tiles - more details here - floor screed with expanded clay. If it is possible to make a screed, instead of the previous coating that has become unusable, then the sequence of actions is as follows:

we dismantle old materials to the cement itself. We coat the joints of the walls and ceilings, covering them with a sand-cement mortar.

we mark the space, exposing the "beacons", priming the concrete.

we fill the space to the very top of the beacons with a screed (it can be pure concrete, a sand-cement mixture is also used in the ratio: 1 to 3). One batch from 15 liters.

in the case when the screed is planned to be thick, expanded clay is backfilled between the layers (the height can reach up to two-thirds according to the level indicated by the beacons). After a day and a half, clean the base so that the expanded clay on the surface does not interfere, and pour again.

after 3 days, you need to prime the screed or use a self-leveling mortar.

Case 4. There is chipboard on the board base, the floor surface can be used

Chipboard can become the basis for tiles if processed. For this:

The butt points where the wall and the DC-plate meet are foamed.

The top of the plate must be oiled or impregnated twice with a special compound.

We process the DS-plate with latex sealant, fixing the paint grid there, let it dry. Then we fix the mesh with self-tapping screws, ensuring a snug fit to the DS-plate.

It is necessary to cover the mesh with the composition: part of the water + a couple of parts of sand and a couple of parts of liquid glass.

Then follows the usual laying of ceramics.

This type of finishing material for the floor is very popular and there are no serious problems with its installation today.

Fortunately, manufacturers produce a lot of adhesive compositions characterized by high adhesive qualities.

There are, however, difficulties with laying, only in private households.

And the most key ones are the presence of floors from. Here the question of whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor is particularly acute.

And, if possible, how is it done correctly, what is the emphasis on, what nuances should be taken into account, and what should not be done? detailed instructions and warnings to beginners are set out in full below.

The use of tile flooring in private homes is also justified by the fact that under it you can organize a water-heated floor or an electric one.

This will save money on paying for, as well as in view of a number of advantageous qualities of the material:

  • High wear resistance
  • Long service life
  • fire resistance
  • Tiles can withstand high loads
  • Ease of care
  • Ease of installation

Preliminary work and calculations

After everything became more or less clear with the choice of material, you need to make the correct calculation of the tile. There will be no particular difficulties in this, if you have even the slightest idea about the cost of laying tiles. And it happens:

  • Straightforward
  • Diagonal (oblique)
  • herringbone
  • Offset

It is worth dwelling a little more specifically on the choice of tiles in the bathroom of a private sector room.

Here preference should be given to non-slip. Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bath in principle, you can read more about the laying process a little lower in the following subsections.

Formulas and nuances of calculating the number of tiles

  • calculate the area of ​​the room
  • add 7% to the received indicator
  • divide the result of the calculation by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone plate
  • divide the result by the number of tiles in one package
  • round to whole number

If the “diagonal” laying method is chosen, then approximately 12% is added to the final result (for trimming). With the herringbone layout method - 15%. The simplest and most economical - "rectilinear". If a floor with a pattern is laid out, then the materials for it are completely different and more complex.

Proper preparation of wooden floors

This is the most important stage of work, since the quality and the final result as a whole depend on it.

There are several ways to prepare a wooden base for tiling, the choice of one of them directly depends on the condition of the floor at the moment.

A wood floor is a one-piece construction, not just top floorboards.

This includes: logs, beams and substrate.

And they need to be double-checked before laying.

Gender check

Experienced craftsmen recommend using exclusively tongue-and-groove boards with a new floor covering, which implies a complete disassembly of the structure. Even if, at first glance, the floor looks perfect, it does not emit any creak, the floorboards are securely fixed and do not wobble at all.

Note! If the logs are installed at a distance from each other in increments of up to 50 cm, it must be additionally redesigned, in this form it will not be able to withstand the weight of the new flooring.

Algorithm for verification work in a wooden base:

  • Floorboards are removed
  • Beams and logs are being audited
  • The level checks the evenness and horizontality of the supporting structures

If there is no possibility of raising the lag, then a wedge or a piece of scrap is hammered under it, fastened, and the excess is simply cut off.

Surface preparation

Wood by nature is an organic material, which means that it cannot be considered stable and reliable. With an increase in humidity, it swells, with its lack - on the contrary, it dries up, decreasing in size.

This raises the question: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a private house, with such technical specifications basics.

Experienced craftsmen give a positive answer, provided that before laying it will be organized to cushion the movement of the floorboards - a damper layer. Where he turns to the base of the tile with a solid surface, and elastic to a wooden one, taking on pushes.

Important point! When constructing such a layer, it is important to remember that the tree must breathe, otherwise it will begin to rot or deteriorate from fungus and mold.

What is important to do when processing the floor:

  • Treat thoroughly with antiseptics and impregnations
  • Fill the distance between the lags with expanded clay of fine fraction
  • Prepare new or old floorboards
  • Important to consider! When using old floorboards, they should be additionally prepared - completely remove the paintwork.
  • Lay the floorboards on the structure with a gap between them of 5 mm (for expansion)
  • If there are cracks, knots on the floorboards - they need to be puttied and sanded
  • Fully sand the coating, after roughing
  • The gaps between the boards are filled with tape or foam
  • To organize monolithic insulation, the surface is coated with latex impregnation or heated drying oil

Lightweight tie device

Third stage preparatory work there is a creation of a solid base under the tile. It is rational and correct to organize an ordinary monolithic screed, only lightweight because it cannot withstand a full-fledged, considered base.

In principle, for laying clinker, porcelain stoneware or tiles three are used to organize the screed:

  • Standard monolithic - thickness no more than 3 cm. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the waterproofing layer, fixed with self-tapping screws and poured with concrete mortar.
  • Liquid glass or KS glue. You can also use a two-component polyurethane adhesive. They are used to create an elastic coating, to prevent cracking of tile dies from wood movements.

A screed based on liquid glass can be prepared.

To do this, you need to prepare: liquid glass, water and washed coarse sand in proportions, respectively - 2: 1: 2.

If the bath in a private house is dry, then the surface of the floors can be leveled with GVL or DSP boards.

They are laid at an angle of 30 0 C, but so that the joints of the plates and the joints of the subfloor do not match.

You can protect and additionally fasten the seams with a special adhesive for drywall.

Highlights of installing tiles on wooden floors

The entire laying process consists of the following steps: marking, preparing the adhesive, laying and grouting the tile joints. We will not dwell on each separately this time, but we will analyze the most important ones right now:

  • It will not be superfluous to place the tiles on the floor before “landing” them on the glue. So you can distribute the material as accurately as possible by removing the edged parts, select a more accurate pattern, and so on.
  • It is very important to adhere to the line of the window opening when laying. The lines must be strictly parallel to it. To make it convenient to adhere to the same width of the seams, you can use crosses in your work.
  • To increase the adhesion of the base of the tile and the floor, you can use a special cement-based adhesive in your work.
  • To increase the strength characteristics of the hitch, you can use compounds containing plasticizers or add them yourself to the adhesive at the rate of no more than 15% of the total mass of the adhesive.
  • It is important to remember that the glue must be used completely within three hours.
  • The working surface (glue application area) should not be too large - optimally one square meter.
  • If mistakes are made during laying, they must be corrected within 10 minutes, otherwise it will be impossible - the glue will begin to stick.

Important point! You need to start laying from the farthest corner, move towards the doors, focusing on the center lines.

The only and nevertheless important disadvantage of laying tiles on a wooden floor is its fragility, but, with proper care for 7 years, it is guaranteed to serve as a reliable and durable foundation.

Despite the fragility - this is the most optimal momentary problem of organizing flooring. Moreover, there are no special difficulties and problems in installation. The main thing is to properly prepare wooden base, and how to do this, everyone who reads the material will know.

About laying tiles on wooden bases - on the video:

Wood cladding may raise some doubts, however, there is a certain laying technology in this way. The advice of experts will allow you to take into account all the important points in the installation process and carry out repairs in the room with high quality.

1. Can I tile on the wooden floor in the bathroom?

Most often, this issue worries those who make repairs in private houses and cottages. In such buildings, wood serves as the basis for cladding. Facing in this case is acceptable, but it is worth assessing the condition of the surface and performing certain work on the eve of installation.

Further actions depend on the preliminary inspection of the base:

  • If the surface is in good condition, in this case, minor processing is carried out and laying can begin;
  • In the presence of serious flaws, installation is unacceptable. First you need to repair the base by replacing the necessary parts.

Calculate the amount of material required for flooring the room, while taking into account the specific layout option (herringbone, offset, diagonal, rows, etc.).
When repairing with your own hands, it is advisable to choose the simplest installation method, for example, cladding in rows. With a diagonal layout direction, the tile consumption will increase significantly, since it will be necessary to trim.

2. Preparation of the base for facing

When thinking about how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, you should first treat the surface of the base. Check the surface carefully before tiling. The covering can be made of a board, or a laminate.
The floor structure consists of rough level boards, which are fixed on wooden logs.


Old paint can be removed using different methods:
. mechanical way.
The meaning of this method is to use a grinder, or an electric drill with a nozzle in the form of sandpaper. Grit No. 40 is suitable for primary processing, No. 100 or No. 80 is recommended to complete grinding. The main advantage of mechanical action is the possibility of cleaning large enough areas.

. Thermal way.
For processing, you will need a high-power hair dryer that can warm the air up to + 300 .. + 600 degrees. It is necessary to keep the device at a distance of 250-500 mm from the floor, after heating, the paint is removed in small parts, using a scraper or a metal spatula during operation.


Experts advise purchasing an industrial hair dryer with a special scraper, so you can combine the process of heating and cleaning wood from paint.


. Method of chemical influence.
Various solvents are suitable for this method. Chemical composition impregnate the paint, applying it with a spatula or brush, depending on the consistency of the substance. The saturation time is 10-30 minutes, after which the paint layer softens and can be easily removed.

Organizing the draft floor, logs are installed on top of the ceilings. Then parchment (waterproofing) is laid, the construction is completed with sheets of chipboard, plasterboard or plywood. Keep track of the evenness of the coating, the logs must be mounted according to the level.


Before laying the material, sheets of chipboard, plywood or GKLV must be treated with drying oil of warm temperature, or with another composition with protective properties. The device can be started immediately after the impregnation has dried.

Preparation of finishing material

Immersion in water will help to force the air out of the tile, 10-20 minutes is enough. If spots appear on the outside of the tile, then a slight wetting of the surface from the inside is sufficient.

3. Do I need a screed?

Before laying, you should check the coating and assess how even it is using a level. If there are significant deviations, it is necessary to make a screed before facing.

What alignment methods are there?

  • Wet screed . Suitable for those cases when it is necessary to increase the strength characteristics of the floor. At the same time, a gap is organized around the perimeter of the room, taking into account possible deformation. This condition allows the base to move without destroying the mounted coating;

  • Dry screed . This method is the most popular, because it allows you to create not only an even, but also a reliable floor with a high bearing capacity;
  • Leveling with GKLV sheets is considered the easiest option. . First of all, carefully examine the condition of the wood floor. Those bars that have rotted should be replaced with new elements. Next, drywall is installed, the sheets are fixed with polyurethane glue, the joints are treated with sealant. You should also impregnate the sheets with a primer mixture.

4. Laying tiles

The main steps for laying tiles on a wooden floor:

  • On the eve of the floor cladding, you need to determine the location of the parts. The center of a large wall is measured and a line is fixed on the floor, usually it is perpendicular. Similar actions are also carried out for a short wall.
  • The resulting lines at the point of intersection indicate the center of the room if the room is a rectangular shape. Organize the most interesting option layouts, avoiding cutting tiles along the walls to the maximum.

    The floor around the bathroom is advised to be tiled symmetrically.

  • The composition of the glue is treated with 1 sq.m of the base in one of the corners measured by the center of the room. In order to conveniently distribute the glue, it is better to use a spatula or spatula.
  • Under the condition of a flat surface (differences in height no more than 3 mm), glue consumption is minimized. In this case, it is enough that the layer is less than 5 mm, because the adhesive composition only serves to adhere the floor and tiles. To level the surface, there is a special adhesive on sale that can eliminate protrusions (up to 30 mm). Also, the consumption of glue depends on the thickness of the tile.

    It is not necessary to knead the entire volume of glue at once, because the laying takes a long time. The composition should be gradually diluted, as needed.

  • You need to create pressure on the tile, then press it to the base. After that, you should continue laying, heading along the marked markings. Cover the entire area of ​​the floor treated with glue.
  • The layout is directed from the central point to the walls, while certain gaps between the tiles must be observed. After half of the floor surface in the bathroom is filled with tiles, the rest is also tiled. Next, you need to wait for the complete drying of the adhesive composition.

    The individual elements must be on the same level. If necessary, you can add a layer of glue.

  • We supplement the space between the wall and the laid material with undercuts. In order to accurately cut off some details of the finishing material, it is better to use a construction cutter.

Sometimes, when laying flooring, it is necessary to go around an object in the bathroom. In this case, use the exact contour by cutting it with a power saw.

  • After the glue becomes solid, the tiles are impregnated with a primer.

    There are collections of floor tiles in which the elements are coated with a primer. This information is specified on the packaging.

  • A scraper with a rubber tip is able to fill all the gaps between the elements with a solution. Excess solution can be removed with a dampened sponge, on the eve of drying;
  • If the bathtub is located close to a lined wall, the gap between the wall and the bathtub must be sealed to ensure tightness. A gap of less than 5 mm can be filled with a tiled fugue or moisture-resistant grout.

For a long time, tiles have been used as facing material. This natural finishing material gained wide popularity due to such important properties as strength, wear resistance, moisture resistance and fire resistance. If a formerly area The use of tiles did not go beyond the bathroom and kitchen, today many people want to see tiles as flooring in other areas of the house or apartment. Often during the repair process, the question arises: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

According to technology, tiles are not recommended to be laid on a wooden floor. It is believed that such a design does not have rigidity and is not hard enough, therefore it will be mobile. As a result, the cement screed laid on the wooden floor will quickly collapse, and the tile will crack or fall off. In addition, the wooden base under the tiles can quickly rot. But do not rush to despair: today there are new technologies and modern materials, which make it easy to solve the problem of laying ceramic tiles on a wooden floor. by the most important point in this case is quality training grounds.

Preliminary preparation of a wooden base

How to start this work? The primary task is to correct the shortcomings of the wooden floor, as a result of which it will acquire rigidity, hardness and strength.

Preparing a wooden base for tiles

A solid base will guarantee the durability of the ceramic tile flooring. Checking the condition of the wooden floor:

  • Remove existing cover. If the boards do not creak, do not bend, we leave them as the basis. But still it is better to sort them out, because it is possible that the logs were not laid often enough or not in level.
  • We check the horizontalness of the lag with the help of a level, if necessary, we align it. It is important to obtain a completely flat surface. Do not forget to leave a gap of 1 cm between the walls and the subfloor, which we then waterproof with mounting foam. We pour expanded clay between the lags, which will additionally perform the function of heat and sound insulation. We lay the previously removed boards (provided that they are in satisfactory condition) or moisture resistant plywood 12 mm thick on aligned logs. Plywood is suitable as a base under tiles: it will not bend under its weight.
  • To protect the logs and the subfloor from mold and decay, we treat them with special protective impregnations.
  • We fix boards or plywood sheets to the logs with self-tapping screws, leaving 5 mm wide gaps between them for ventilation from below, so that the tree “breathes”.
  • In order to prevent moisture from getting from an earthen, concrete or wooden base onto the substrate, we lay vapor or waterproofing (polyethylene or parchment or bitumen paper) on the subfloor. We can also use special mastics.

Methods for arranging a base for tiles

First way. We make a traditional screed, only thinner and lighter. Laying on waterproofing metal mesh, which we attach to subfloor self-tapping screws. We set the beacons according to the level, pour a cement screed 3 mm thick. You can use a self-leveling mortar instead of a screed.

Second way. We strengthen the base with two-component polyurethane glue or KS glue (its base is liquid glass). When the glue dries, a waterproofing film forms on top of the subfloor. Manufacturers claim that these compounds protect the tile from cracking in case of deformation of the wooden base. Since this method is not yet so common, it is difficult to judge its reliability. Of course, it is better to arrange a hard, solid foundation. But if this is not possible, you can get out of the situation with the help of polyurethane compounds.

Third way . We lay DSP (cement-bonded particle boards), GKLV (moisture-resistant drywall sheets) or GVL ( gypsum fiber sheets). GVL sheets are more preferable, since they are more plastic and stronger than drywall, as well as lighter and cheaper than DSP boards. In addition, GVL are distinguished by increased sound and heat insulating characteristics, and a special hydrophobic impregnation makes them moisture resistant.

We attach the sheets to the rough floor with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to ensure that the joints between the sheets fall over the boards, and not over the cracks, otherwise the base will be fragile. We glue the seams with special glue for GVL or GKL. If the floor does not seem rigid enough, lay the second layer, while making sure that the seams of the second layer are located in the middle of the sheets of the first layer.

Laying plywood sheets on a wooden base

The sheets were laid and fixed. Now cover them with a deep penetration primer. We are waiting for it to dry, and proceed to laying the tiles.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor step by step

Tiles on a wooden floor are laid only after checking the level of the surface. We do this with building level. If the surface is perfectly flat, there are no deviations, then you can proceed to the direct one, which consists of the following steps:

  • Tile preparation
  • Floor marking
  • Adhesive preparation
  • Laying tiles
  • Seam sealing

For installation you will need the following tools:

  • notched trowel for applying glue;
  • rubber spatula for sealing seams;
  • tile cutter or glass cutter;
  • containers for glue and grout;
  • rubber mallet for tapping tiles;
  • tape measure, level and marking cord.

When working with glue, gloves are required to protect the fingertips.

Tile preparation

Before laying, we lay out the tiles, check its quality and appearance

  1. We calculate how many tiles are needed. To do this, we divide the floor area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room where we will lay the tiles by the area of ​​\u200b\u200b1 tile. We add to the result 10% for a possible battle and for pruning. When buying tiles, it is important not to confuse the wall with the floor. Although they look similar in appearance, the floor tiles are more durable, and their surface undergoes a special treatment to give it an anti-slip effect.
  2. We lay out the tiles over the entire area, we control it appearance and quality. We make holes in the tiles that will be laid near the pipes, in accordance with the diameter of these pipes.
  3. You need to make sure that the pre-laid tiles do not interfere with the opening of the doors. Otherwise, remove the door from the hinges, trim it along the bottom.
  4. To displace air from the tile, lower it into water for 15-20 minutes. Sometimes on her front side Spots form when exposed to water. We cannot withstand such a tile in water, but simply wipe it from the inside with a moistened brush.

Floor marking

With the help of a coated cord, we draw a line connecting the middle of the long walls. We connect the middle of the short walls with the same line. The lines intersect at the center of the floor. Focusing on them, we lay out the tiles in such a way that a minimum of cut tiles is obtained near the walls.

Floor marking scheme when laying tiles

If you lay the tiles diagonally, you will not be able to avoid cutting the tiles. When laying a whole tile along the walls, we start work from the end of the floor opposite to the entrance to the room. The window line should be parallel to the tile line. Along the axes, we can also decompose rows perpendicular to each other. Inserting crosses between the tiles, determine the distance of the seams.

Adhesive preparation

Laying tiles on a wooden base is recommended to be carried out using a special cement adhesive. We mix the dry mixture with water (we take the amount of water in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations). To increase the adhesion of the tile to the adhesive solution, add 10-15% plasticizers to it. We prepare small portions of the adhesive composition, as the mixture dries in 3-4 hours. To obtain a homogeneous composition, stir it with a construction mixer.

The adhesive solution is kneaded with a construction mixer

Important! When choosing a tile adhesive, you need to pay attention to whether it is suitable for

works on GVL or GKL.

The adhesive composition is applied with a notched trowel on the primed dried floor surface. We apply glue in even stripes, starting from any corner in the center of the room. The size of the spatula teeth depends on the size of the tile (for example, for a 30x30 cm tile, you will need a spatula with teeth ranging from 8 mm to one centimeter). The finished adhesive solution dries in 10-15 minutes, so we apply it to a small area (no more than 1 m2) and quickly perform corrective actions.

Attention! In the process of laying tiles, it is extremely important to follow the recommendations of the manufacturers of not only ceramic tiles, but also the materials used - adhesive mixtures, grouts, mastics, primers.

Laying tiles

The adhesive solution was applied, the floor structure was formed with the help of crosses evenly spaced over the entire surface, then we can proceed to the direct laying of tiles on a wooden base. We apply the tile to the surface, press it, tap lightly with a rubber mallet to improve the fit. In this way, we tile the entire surface that was previously treated with glue, and only then move on to the next section. To ensure that the distances between the tiles are the same, we use plastic spacers.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor - checking the level of the surface

In the course of the work, we constantly monitor the level of the laid tiles with the help of a rule or a building level, since after 10 minutes, when the glue dries, the position of the tiles that were laid incorrectly cannot be corrected. If necessary, add or reduce the adhesive solution under the tiles.

After all the whole tiles have been laid out, we proceed to filling free spaces between floor and walls. We cut pieces of tiles of the desired size using a special tile cutter.

Important! At thresholds, walls, and around pipes, edge cut tiles should fit snugly into place, but should not require any effort to install.

When finished laying the tiles over the entire surface of the floor, we clean it with a rag from excess glue. After two days, the tile will already hold as firmly as possible. Then we proceed to the final stage - sealing the seams.

Seam sealing

Properly executed grouting of floor tiles gives the finish an aesthetic appearance, effectively hides possible laying flaws.

The gaps formed during the laying between the tiles are filled with special grouts (fugues). Most grouts are designed for joints up to 6 mm wide. First, we moisten the seams with a brush, and then apply the grout with diagonal movements with a special rubber spatula.

Attention! Instead of traditional grout for grouting, experts advise it is better to use a new tool - elastic colored silicone.

We fill in this way all the inter-tile gaps, removing excess fugue. Drying of seams occurs from 20 to 30 minutes. When this time has elapsed, gently wipe the tile with a damp cloth, and after an hour with a dry flannel cloth. The work is done.

If you show interest in this matter, you can be sure that laying tiles on a wooden floor covered with chipboard, plywood, GKVL or GVL is possible, and this is not so difficult.