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Country house how to make. Inexpensive do-it-yourself country house. Do-it-yourself photo of a house from a bar

If you have an idea to build a house with your own hands, then the difficulty of choosing the material will be relevant.

Most budget option there will be a construction of a house from a bar. With all the cheapness of this material, the house will turn out to be quite warm, durable and strong.

Having studied the Internet, you will find that in most cases it is advised to choose a bar with a section of 150x150 mm.

But in the event that you do not want to attract additional labor, lumber such as dry timber 150x100 mm is suitable for you, which, after erection and shrinkage, can be insulated with mineral wool. The house will not be inferior in terms of thermal insulation to other buildings from a beam of a larger section.

Stages of construction and construction of the foundation

And so, the material is purchased, we proceed to the construction of the house:

  • Initially, it is necessary to clear the space and level the platform for the foundation;
  • In accordance with the composition of the soil, determine the type of foundation (specialized reference literature will help with this).

The foundation can be piled, monolithic or tape, which is more often used, because wooden houses are relatively light.

After installing the foundation, the concrete should gain strength (3-4 weeks), then proceed to laying the timber. Even before laying, it is necessary to prepare dowels (dowels) - this is what is used to fasten the timber laid in the crowns together. They are usually made of dense wood (larch).

With a beam size of 150x100 mm, dowels about 12 cm long are suitable. Also, the beam laying technology requires laying interventional insulation. Usually these are rolled materials such as jute, you can also use tow or moss.

According to the advice of experts, fresh red or peat moss should be used, which has lain for no more than 3 weeks.

The first crown of the future home should be made of larch, which is not subject to decay. For greater reliability, it can be treated with bitumen.

The bar of the first crown is fastened together, with a technique known as “half a tree” - at the ends of the bar, a cut is made along and across. It is also necessary to fasten such a knot with staples or nails.

Ways of fastening the beam to the foundation

At the stage of pouring the base, bolts with bent or cone-shaped bases are mounted in its upper layer. The distance between such bolts should not exceed more than 0.5 m. Each element of the first crown should have at least two bolts.

In the beam of the first crown, even before laying, it is necessary to drill holes for the studs located in the foundation.

A pre-cut roofing material is laid on top of the grillage, which acts as a waterproofing material.

After laying the first crown and fixing it on the foundation studs with washers and lock nuts, bring the horizontal level so that the house turns out without distortions. It is also recommended to check the diagonals.

Having laid the first crown, we proceed to the construction of walls.

To do this, you will need a variety of tools:

Note!

  • Petrol or electric saw;
  • Manual a circular saw;
  • Drill;
  • Level;
  • Roulette;
  • Axe;
  • A hammer;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Perforator;
  • Plane.

Also needed expendable materials- nails, self-tapping screws, interventional insulation, fire and bioprotective impregnations.

After preparing all necessary materials and a tool, we begin to build the walls of your future home. The timber is laid in rows (crowns) until the wall of the required height is obtained.

After laying 4-5 crowns, jambs for door and window openings are installed. At the next stage, the final construction of the walls under the roof takes place.

Roof and floor construction

We strongly do not recommend saving on material for installing a roof. This part of the house can be executed in several versions:

  • Shed;
  • gable;
  • hip;
  • Tent;
  • Half hip;
  • Multi-forceps;
  • Vaulted and tambourine roofing.

It all depends on your desire, money and complexity. truss system.

Note!

Floors and ceilings in the house is also not an unimportant stage of construction. When arranging them, they are mainly guided by personal preferences, but high-quality waterproofing is mandatory for any manufacturing option. This is especially true for basements and plinths.

Do-it-yourself photo of a house from a bar

Note!

I wanted to build a house. Immediately faced with the problem of material selection. There was not much money, but I wanted to get a reliable, warm and durable house. Having studied the proposals of the modern construction market, I decided to stop at

On the forums, it is advised to build houses with a section of 15x15 cm. But I had to build it myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I didn’t want to involve third-party workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter beam. Instead, I bought dry material with a section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood shrinks, I will insulate the walls from the outside mineral wool and the house will be warm.

To further save on construction, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story as an example of guidance and navigate the situation.

Foundation pouring

First, I cleared the area under the house from debris, bushes and other interfering things. After that, he began to arrange the foundation.

I had to think for a long time what type of foundation would be suitable specifically for my area. He studied the geological conditions, found out the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater. The specialized reference literature helped me with this. In addition, I asked the neighbors on what foundations their houses stand.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions make it possible to save on the arrangement of foundations, so most of the neighbors' houses stand on light supports made of limestone and concrete. Most often, they even refuse reinforcement - such is our wonderful soil. The soil is sandy, therefore, it is not "heaving". The water runs deep, and wooden houses weigh a little. Therefore, there is no need to equip buried monolithic supports in my region.

Started by digging trenches. To begin with, he removed the fertile ball. Sand appeared. For a better seal, I spilled it with water. Then he laid out the trenches with stone and laid two reinforcing bars. Bandaged them in the corners. I think that the tape is best reinforced both at the bottom and at the top. And so he did.


To save yourself from unnecessary work, you could order a ready-made building concrete with delivery. However, in my region this turned out to be unrealistic - there are simply no such proposals. And my plot is such that the truck would have to go through the garden, but I don’t need this.

Alas, this way of saving will not work in every region. For example, if I lived somewhere in the Moscow region, I would have to make formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour the building mixture.

While the concrete is gaining strength (and it takes 3-4 weeks for this), I will prepare the consumables.

Bar prices


Find out more details from our new article on our portal.

Preparatory activities

Preparation of dowels


The connection of the crowns of the beam is carried out using wooden dowels. I decided to make them from scraps of boards left over from other construction activities. In my case, it was the arrangement of the roof lathing.

For pins, use the hardest wood possible. The process of making fasteners is extremely simple. I took the board scraps and beveled them on one side with a suitable saw.

Then I set the stop and started sawing to size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I got neat and beautiful blanks.

Planks sawn with band saw. As a result, I received a whole box of wooden sticks. Next, I sharpened the blanks with an ax on each side and got my dowels.

Moss preparation


Nagels, sphagnum peat moss and planks

The technology requires that between each crown of the timber be laid Professionals usually insulate roll materials. Working with them is easy and convenient - just roll the material over the laid crown and you can continue to work. However, you have to pay for the convenience and ease of processing.

I decided not to spend money and use moss. Firstly, this material is full in nature - go and collect. Secondly, moss is not only a decent insulation, but also an excellent antiseptic. Additionally, I worked through thematic forums: moss is actively used as an interventional insulation, and there are no negative reviews about it.

For insulation, red or peat moss is best suited. The first one is highly rigid. The second after drying becomes brittle. It is best to use red moss whenever possible. It is easy to recognize it - these are long stems with leaves resembling a Christmas tree.

Making jambs


I make them for every door and window opening. To do this, I use a flat bar. Knots, if possible, should not be at all. For greater convenience, I made an impromptu workbench right next to the stack of my lumber. Made longitudinal cuts. A circular saw helped me with this. Excess material was removed with a chisel.

Not even every professional carpenter can do the right jamb. Therefore, I decided to make jambs for windows using a simplified technology. In every window opening I will install only a couple of vertical jambs. The window block will be directly responsible for the horizontal connection.

To install the block, you need a "quarter". However, here I figured out how to simplify the task. Instead of a sample (it is shaded in the photo), I decided to paste the bar. To do this, the plane was sharpened in advance. The result turned out no worse than it would have been in a situation using a quarter.

It is impossible to reduce the number of jambs in the doorway - all four are needed. However, the shape of the products can be greatly simplified.

I chose in the bar, which in the future will be the threshold, grooves similar to the recesses in the side jambs. This allowed me to put the bottom bar on the spikes of the opening. However, on this stage the beam would have to be cut with a chisel across the wood fibers - the occupation is not the most pleasant and simple. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a circular saw, I prepared the cuts, having previously set the appropriate output of the disc and made parallel stop.

Then I took a spade drill and made a hole with a diameter of 2.5 cm, as for dowels. At the end, I sawed out an even rectangle across the wood fibers. A reciprocating saw helped me with this.

Carpenters usually make two rectangular nests in the threshold, and from the bottom of each vertical jamb they make out a reciprocal ledge, cutting down and sawing out excess wood with a chisel. I decided to make holes, as for mounting dowels, and scored a couple of fasteners. I made similar holes at the bottom of the jambs.

I haven’t touched the upper horizontal bar yet, but I nailed a small board to the threshold - it will take over the functions of the “quarter”. The design of the opening turned out to be extremely simple, but this does not prevent him from coping with his main function. In the future, I will cut the opening and glue the “quarters”.

Required Tools

To build a house from wooden beam I used the following tools and fixtures:

  • hammerless electric drill;
  • circular saw;
  • roulette;
  • sledgehammer;
  • electric planer;
  • square;
  • reciprocating saw;
  • plumb;
  • a hammer;
  • water hose;
  • axe.

To cut a wooden beam, I bought a circular saw. I had to cut in two passes. First, he drew a line on the square, after which he cut, turned the beam over and again made a cut. It is best to transfer the line to the second face of the beam also using a square. If you are confident in your "eye", you can cut "by eye".

With the help of a circular saw, I made spikes and grooves for corner connections bars. When arranging the spikes, I lacked a slight depth of cut, so I had to make a couple of extra movements with a hacksaw.


Building a house

Rules for laying the lower crown

Laying the starting crown is traditionally done with a joint known as "in the floor of the tree". This knot is made without any problems with a circular saw - it is enough to cut the material along and across. In some areas, the depth of cut turned out to be insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which I got rid of excess material with a chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that is connected with nails.

I put the lower crown on the lining of the boards. There are gaps between the elements - in the future I will make air gaps there. In my area, they are usually in the wall, not in the concrete base. This option has its advantages. Firstly, making vents in the wall is easier and faster. Secondly, at a certain elevation, the wind moves at a higher speed than directly at the ground, due to which the underground will be better ventilated.


Bar cutting. Connection "in half a tree"

I am going to mount the floor beams on the linings - so, as I think, the loads on the base will be distributed more evenly.

Linings and timber of the lower crown covered. As practice shows, the material laid at the very bottom rots the fastest. In my situation, there are linings below, and not the timber itself. In the future, if the boards rot, they can be replaced with much less effort than the beam of the lower crown.

reciprocating saw prices

reciprocating saw

Features of laying the second and subsequent crowns

Starting from the second crown of masonry, work is carried out in the same order. At the corners, I connected the timber with the help of root spikes - the usual adjunction of elements is unacceptable here.

Taking a circular saw, he cut a couple of cuts. The cutting line was transferred to the second face with the help of a square. The root spike is easy to do, everything is shown in the photo. If the disk output is insufficient, the depth can be increased with a hacksaw. The groove is even easier. Also shown in the photo.

Important note! Keep in mind that in the joints of the tongue and groove type there should be approximately 0.5 cm gap for laying the sealant. A joint where the wood just touches the wood is unacceptable.

First, I set the depth of cut I needed. With my saw, you can change the output of the disc without any problems - just loosen the lever. The add-on is easy to use. If in traditional carpentry the master sets some parameter of the working tool and prepares the required number of workpieces of the same type, then in carpentry the situation is somewhat different: the material is dragged onto the workbench, and the cutting depth is adjusted directly in the course of work.


My saw is equipped with a thin blade - it takes much less effort to cut. The safety guard moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut.

My house will have walls longer than timber, so I will have to splice the building material. To do this, I made a gash from both ends of a long beam, removed the excess with a chisel and got a spike in the middle. The ledge is ready, now we need a groove. Cutting wood with a chisel across the fibers is not practical. I went to the trick and drilled a simple through hole in the second bar. The length of the drill was not enough to create a through hole, so I had to drill from both sides. Next, I cut off excess wood from the workpiece, made markings and cut through the beam along the fibers with a chisel. Connected spliced ​​bars. Gaps filled with moss.

Helpful advice. In the crown, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for the jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting the timber, it will not be possible to completely make the spikes with a saw, it will be necessary to additionally gouge with a chisel to complete the process. In the next photo you see the bars already with mounting spikes. Thresholds for door openings are shown as templates.

He laid the second crown on the lower one, correctly completing the corner joints and the necessary splices along the length. It's time to make markings for installing dowels - connectors for the crowns of my house under construction. I took a square and put down vertical marks on the bars at the bottom and top, in the places where the fasteners would be placed. Turned over the top bar. Moved the markup to the center of my beam. After I drilled holes for the fasteners and drove the dowels into them with a hammer.

What do you need to know about pins?


Logically in round hole it would be necessary to drive in a round dowel. Builders, on the other hand, adhere to a different technology and use square-section dowels. Such fasteners are also easier to manufacture, and the connection is held much more reliably. At the same time, a short dowel will not interfere with the process of shrinkage of the structure.

The problem is that it is impossible to drill a strictly vertical hole with a hand drill without the slightest deviation. When installing the bar of the next crown on a pointed and slightly protruding dowel, the first one will stagger a little. In order for the timber to be firmly fixed, it must be additionally besieged with a sledgehammer.

The dowels I use work for shear and ensure proper shrinkage even if there are slight deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no cracks. First, the timber will shrink. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, which I will discuss later.

Once I had to observe how builders made holes in the wall from a bar using a long drill and drove long round dowels into them, outwardly similar to cuttings from a shovel or rake. Were these holes vertical? Naturally, no. In the end, the beam did not settle, but seemed to “hang” on the dowels, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.


Having driven in pins, I laid tow and moss on the crown. The tow was laid across the bars. Moss just sprinkled on the tow. As a result, tow hangs from the walls. Thanks to this, in the future it will be easier for me to caulk the walls. Moss will also provide decent building insulation.


I set the bars on the dowels, laid the tow, threw in the moss, laid siege to the crown with a sledgehammer, but for some reason it still staggers. This happens due to the presence of gaps in the corner joints. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I filled them tightly with moss. A spatula and a narrow strip of metal helped me with this.

The attentive reader will ask: what about tow? Is it not necessary to lay in the corners and her? No, it doesn `t need. First, as I said earlier, moss is a very good natural antiseptic. My house will stand for a long time without any finishing, and sedimentary moisture will now and then drain in the corners. Moss will not let the wood rot in these places. Secondly, in the future, the beam in the corners will probably have to be cut. Moss will not interfere with this. Tow can also lead to breakage of the planer.

Tow prices

Now my corners are strong, insulated and windproof. At the end of the day, I covered the corner joints in order to protect them from possible precipitation.



In the picture you can see that one of my beams is located higher than the other. But they must be at the same height. We are not in a hurry to immediately turn on the electric planer - it is quite possible to cope with such a problem with a simple sledgehammer.

I worked with a planer at the very end, when the interference with the installation of the next crown became clearly visible. With a planer, I compared small “screws” and “humps”. He compensated for more significant differences in height with the help of tow and moss - it takes much less time to arrange them than to process wood with a planer.

What does it cost us to build a house!

You have already familiarized yourself with the basic principles of laying each crown. There is important nuances. Firstly, the crowns must be laid with alternating corner joints. Secondly, the internal load-bearing wall of the house must be connected to the longitudinal wall. This is done through one crown. For binding, I use an already proven and familiar connection. Only here I drill holes for dowels “staggered” in relation to the lower crowns. After that, I lay tow and moss, and placing each beam in the place intended for it, I seal the joints in the corners.

That is, the procedure for building a house is extremely simple:

  • I lay another crown;
  • I make markings for dowels;
  • drill holes;
  • I drive in wooden fasteners;
  • I lay tow, I throw moss on it;
  • I repeat the sequence.

Along the length of the bars, they are joined by the “spread out” method.

Having reached the height of the window sill (this is the seventh crown for me), I made markings for arranging window openings. I calculated the width of each opening by adding the dimensions of the jambs and sealed gaps to the width of the purchased window unit. There should be a pair of gaps on each side of the opening - between the jamb and the window block being installed, as well as between the jamb and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the required width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of these, 155 mm went to the gaps.

According to the results of the calculation, I installed a crown with a window opening, having previously cut spikes in the bars, similar to the stage with door openings.

The following crowns with a window opening were laid from bars without spikes, observing the same overall dimensions.

I equipped all the window openings from “shorty pieces”, the evenness of which was disturbed during the shrinkage of the timber - such material would not work for walls, but it’s a pity to throw it away. Didn't do jumpers. Equipping the opening, he constantly checked its evenness with a plumb line. I also checked the walls.

I temporarily fastened a separate wall with rails so that it would not fall during work. The T-shaped structure, as well as the corner, do not need additional reinforcement - they are perfectly held by their own weight.

Important note! In the places where the spikes of the opening and the cut line are arranged, i.e. only a few centimeters from the edge, I did not lay the tow, because when sawing, it would be wound around the cutting disc. In the future, the tow is knocked out from the ends without any problems.

After laying the last crown with a window opening (it needs to be temporarily laid without fixing and sealing), I removed the upper bars and made cuts for the spikes. He put them on jambs. Having set the saw blade to the required depth, I set a parallel stop to maintain the desired indent from the edge. It didn't take me much time to do this. I didn’t succeed in cutting the timber to the desired depth with a circular saw - I had to finish it with a hacksaw.

In the lower crown of the opening, I made spikes to control my assembly. I did not do this in the last crown - in the future, the spikes will still have to be created in each beam.

On the personal experience I made sure that assembling the entire height of the opening for a window without a connection, and from not quite “shorty”, is not an easy task.

Light and short cuts can be tried on before making a recess or spike. It may well turn out that a bar deviating to the left will fall on a bar deviating to the right. As a result, a flat wall will be built. If both beams deviate in the same direction, you can not count on the evenness of the wall.

To eliminate deviations, you can plan the “screws” with a planer, or lay the timber with a “ladder”. It was my second case. I also eliminated the gap with a planer. At each stage, I checked the verticality of the openings being erected using a plumb line.


Jamb installation and shutdown

Placed the top crown. It's time to mount the jambs of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements, strength will be significantly increased. finished construction. The lower bar of each opening is equipped with a full-fledged spike. On the upper bars there are cuts in the required places. I attach a guide, set the desired cutting depth and make a cut with a circular saw. After that, I draw a couple of lines from the ends according to the size of the spike and get rid of excess material with the help of a chisel.

My spikes have a smaller width than the grooves. I fill the gaps with thermal insulation material. If you wish, you can make the spikes wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing the house, cut down excess material and fill the gaps with a sealant.

Inserted temporary spacers between the jambs. In the future, I planned to attach a veranda to my house. If you plan to make an extension, do not lay the top crown of the beam before the start of its construction. I also mounted less on the crown.

The box is ready. I covered it with a temporary roof, closed every opening and left the house until the next season. The beam will just have time to shrink. After that, I will continue, which I will definitely tell you about in my next story.


Instead of a conclusion

While the house is shrinking, I decided to take stock. Firstly, I was glad that much less money had to be spent on the foundation when compared with other types of supports. It took some money to dump the stone. There is also a lot of sand in my region - you can dig it yourself and bring it. Most of the money was spent on cement and rebar.

Secondly, I was pleased with the affordable cost and relatively low consumption. building material. When the timber was brought to me, I laid it out in a pile about a meter high and two meters wide. At first it seemed that I miscalculated somewhere and there was not enough material for me. As a result, about 20 bars remained unused. In general, I spent about 7.5 m3 of timber with a section of 15x10 cm for the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (the timber part in it accounts for 6x7.5 m). I would have spent 1.5 times more money on a timber of 15x15 cm. Yes, and additional labor would have to be hired, which is also not free.

Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. Nageli made himself, the moss is free. The tow was given to me with pleasure by my friends after the completion of their construction activities.

Fourthly, I did not have to buy highly specialized and expensive tools. Everything that I used for construction will be useful to me in the future. Particularly pleased with the purchase of a good circular saw and concrete mixer.

Now about the speed of work. I did not have much experience in building from a bar. As practice has shown, for the whole day, working in one hand and subject to good weather on the street, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can do it both faster and slower, I will not argue.

And the main advantage of such construction is that it does not require any special skills to carry it out. And I personally convinced myself of this.

I hope that my story will be useful to you, and you will be able, just like me, to make your dream of owning your own home come true.

Video - Do-it-yourself log house

Of course, it is better to build right now than to redo it later. Well, and if you still do improvements, then do it thoughtfully so as not to turn the reconstruction into an endless process.

We first evaluate any building by its appearance. And after all, as often happens (this is especially true for country houses of old construction): the structure seems to be solid, but it looks unsightly. So what - to break everything and build again? Or still try to do something less expensive? For example, apply techniques that allow you to create an optical effect of changing the size of an object in width and height, combining this with a cosmetic finish on the facade and minor design improvements ( rice. one).

Rice. 1. A little refinement at home allows you to change the perception of the size of the object in width and height.

This can be done by different orientation of the architectural elements of the structure in the vertical and horizontal directions. Suppose we have to “stretch” the roof in width, and “raise” the frame up. To do this, "lengthen" existing window in both directions (at the same time it will be lighter in the attic) and install a gable tide (the protection of the facade from rain will improve). You can install a ridge ebb, which is also structurally justified. And the attic window will improve the ventilation conditions of the attic and, to some extent, its lighting.

Thus, all these decorative innovations not only improve the appearance of the building, but also turn out to be functionally useful. The main facade of the log house, on the contrary, should be made visually higher. The simplest solution is not to board the corners, but to paint them more bright hues. The actual height of the log house can also be masked by planting trees and shrubs, as well as installing a fence of the appropriate height.
There are many ways to influence the appearance of a building in the arsenal of designers and architects. You need to select the most effective and simple.

However, our main task is to reduce construction errors to a minimum. Can this be achieved? Even with a whole statistical "bank" of errors, we will not be able to use this information effectively without an integrated approach. It is necessary to systematize mistakes, and on the basis of this, develop rules that should be followed during the construction process. In other words, it is necessary to regulate the requirements for each part of the building under construction. Their implementation will prevent gross mistakes and help you look where you need to. A list of such requirements can be formed not only on the basis of building codes, but also on the basis of survey results, common sense considerations, taking into account the materials and tools used.

However, requirements are only half the battle. Another critical component of success is the control system. After all, country houses are often built by non-professional builders. It is for them that a systematic approach is needed, which will allow building high-quality, quickly and at no extra cost.

An example is the construction of a country house from a bar - the most common and relatively inexpensive material.

Foundation

The construction of any house begins with the foundation. The most common are shallow strip reinforced concrete foundations. They are simple and manufacturable, reliable, well protect the underground from cold, snow and wind, versatile enough for almost any type of soil.

AT cross section the foundation consists of underground and above-ground parts, which are poured with concrete separately. For example, during construction on clay soils (in the Moscow region their area is about 70%), concrete of the foundation sole is poured directly into a trench dug in the ground, and then the formwork panels are mounted and the basement is poured.

The arrangement of the foundation begins with its marking. Many developers at this stage "enclose the garden", believing that one cannot do without a cast-off. Of course, a cast-off is needed when erecting large construction projects. However, when it comes to a rectangle with dimensions of 6 × 9 m, can't we mark it out more in a simple way? And horizontal marks can be easily obtained using a hydraulic level without a level: after all, the area is insignificant. Cast-off is extra labor costs, additional costs of lumber, and subsequently - inconvenience and interference during the installation of formwork panels, as well as the difficulty of maneuvering concrete trucks.

Rice. 2. Marking the foundation

Consider the simplest strip foundation marking technology (Fig. 2). First, in the right place, the basic position of the main corner is determined - in relation to the road, terrain, plan, etc. A peg is hammered in this place.

Then, using a triangle, a right angle is set from this point. Now, having given the dimensions of the sides of the foundation, it is easy to determine the position of all corners. The accuracy of the work is checked by comparing the diagonals of the rectangle.

Pegs are driven in at the marked points. Then, according to the given width of the foundation tape, an internal rectangle is built and the pegs are driven in again. Also determine the position of the foundation under the veranda. Pegs are also driven in here. Thus, having scored only 12 pegs, the work on marking the foundation can be considered completed.

After installing the pegs, an incision is made and the sod is removed along the contour of the foundation. To do this, take a board with a section of 50 × 150 mm, first apply it to the outer pegs and, moving along the board, cut the sod with a shovel. Then the board is placed against the inner pegs and the turf is cut again.

Similarly, they act along the entire contour of the future structure. It remains to take out the cut turf, after which the breakdown of the foundation can be considered completely completed.

Such a simplified marking allows you to get the contour of the trench without accurate millimetric measurements, the need for which may arise in subsequent stages of construction. After that, proceed to the selection of the trench.

Some critics of strip foundations consider their main drawback large volume earthworks. However, this is not quite true. My colleagues and I have never used an excavator for soil sampling. This is expensive, and the trench turns out to be extremely sloppy, which requires subsequent manual refinement. In addition, the consumption of concrete increases. But for a house with dimensions of 6 × 9 m, we need to choose only about 9 m3 of soil. A team of four people will do it (along with markings and smoke breaks) in just half a day. I dare say that it is much more difficult to drill two or three dozen holes in clay for a columnar foundation, and even with broadening. When sampling from a trench of soil under strip foundation simultaneously produce vertical markings: determine the depth of the trench and the height of the shields. Measurements are made using stakes and a hydraulic level (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Vertical marking of the trench

At the bottom of the dug trench, a sand cushion is covered in layers of 10-15 cm and rammed. Then the reinforcement is installed and the concrete is poured.

It makes no sense to prepare concrete yourself. The concrete truck will bring and pour the finished mixture into the trench. However, it will be necessary to make room for equipment to drive to the trench at least in 2-3 places. If poured at one point, then the concrete will have to be pushed far with shovels, and large aggregate (crushed stone) will settle in one place. Only the liquid part of the solution will reach the remote places of the trench.

After pouring concrete into the trench, you can start preparing reinforcement and making formwork panels. In the meantime, the concrete of the base has not yet hardened, it is necessary to insert pins into it every 1-1.5 m to connect the base of the foundation with the base. Reinforcing bars ø14-16 mm and 50 cm long are buried in the base concrete by 30 cm.

For the foundation to work reliably, it must meet the following requirements:
- the foundation tape must have sufficient strength and stability;
- the foundation must provide the necessary ventilation of the underground;
- the surface of the basement bed must be straight and located strictly in a horizontal plane;
- the walls and corners of the plinth must be strictly vertical;

The surface of the walls should not have delaminations, chips, empty spaces, shells, open areas with reinforcement;
- the height of the plinth must be at least 50 cm.
All further actions should be aimed at fulfilling these requirements, and only then the list of errors when laying the foundation can be reduced or not at all.

To fill the base, you need to make and install shields. In the case under consideration, 42 m2 will be required - external formwork panels and 30 m2 - internal. More demanding requirements are imposed on external shields, since they form the front part of the foundation. For them, it is advisable to use boards with a section of 50 × 150 mm, which are purchased for rafters. After dismantling the formwork panels, they are used for their intended purpose.

It makes sense to make internal shields (as experience suggests) from boards with a section of 25 × 150 mm, which were purchased for the crate. However, to ensure the strength of the formwork, they must be knocked down in 2 layers.

Rice. 4. Manufacture of formwork panels

In addition to the economical manufacture of formwork panels, it is advisable to use a simplified scheme for installing and fastening formwork panels, which my colleagues and I have been using for a long time. Its essence is as follows. First, external shields are recruited (4 boards per shield). To make the gaps between the boards smaller, you can use a simple method of rallying the boards with shovels (Fig. 4). On the ground, shield ties are laid out from bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm and a length of 80 cm. Boards with a section of 50 × 150 mm are laid on them. The result is a shield with a width of 60 cm, which allows you to get the plinth of the desired height. The boards are pressed against each other with shovels and nailed to the screeds. At the ends of the shields, boards are not knocked together. Locks will be placed there, which are nailed in place when installing shields. The ends of the ties that protrude at the top are used to accommodate wire twists.

Shields of the internal contour are made in the same way, but they are recruited from boards with a section of 25 × 150 mm in two rows with a slight offset. Here, instead of nails, it is advisable to use self-tapping screws for assembly. Ready-made shields are wrapped with roofing material before installation, since glassine and film are torn when pouring concrete, forming unnecessary patterns on the concrete surface.

The main thing when assembling formwork- ensure its stable position at the time of pouring concrete. Insecurely fixed shields at the time of pouring can cause a lot of trouble. So that they do not tip over, they often use various braces, stakes and stops. As a result, the material is wasted, the work takes a lot of time, and the reliability of the formwork installation leaves much to be desired. The most important thing is that the fastening elements take up a lot of space on both sides of the plinth, which interferes with work and makes it difficult for concrete trucks to move.

There is an alternative to such an irrational method of fixing the formwork. For the installation and fastening of the shields, reinforcing pins are used, which are inserted into the sole of the foundation along its central axis. The formwork panels are fastened with wire ties to the pins. As a result, the panels will be securely tied to the base of the foundation and firmly fastened to it without external structures interfering with the work. The pins are installed at the corners of the foundation at the junctions with the lintels, and in the intervals between them they are placed in increments of 1.0-1.5 m.

Consider the technology of mounting shields with reinforcing pins in more detail(Fig. 5). First, the inner contour of the shields is installed. It is placed taking into account the width of the base. Since the sole of the foundation is somewhat wider than the base (40 cm versus 25-30 cm), there is some margin for arranging shields. Shields with the help of locks are connected in the corners and temporarily fastened with scraps of lumber. The correctness of the installation is checked by comparing the diagonals. The temporarily fastened inner formwork box serves as a base for the installation of the outer contour.

Rice. 5 Formwork mounting scheme

Then they act in this sequence. Spacers are attached to each pin, the position of the pins is marked on them (since you cannot put them exactly in the center), nails are hammered into the spacers according to the marks and go around them around the pins. After that, the wire is wound on the pins.

External shields are attached close to the struts, and the ends of the wire are wound on the fastening nails (they are not bent yet). Both formwork walls are temporarily fixed, and 2-4 reinforcement bars ø12-16 mm are laid on the spacers.

The most important moment is the formation of products. These structural elements determine the underground ventilation conditions. Often they are formed using scraps of asbestos-cement pipes or wooden boxes are knocked together. The disadvantage of these methods is that with a slight deviation of the shield between it and the liner, a gap is formed where the concrete mixture immediately flows. As a result, work often goes down the drain.

We do things differently in our practice. We take a piece of timber with a section of 150 × 150 mm or a piece of round timber ø130 ... 150 mm, wrap it with 2-3 layers of roofing material and insert it between the shields. For the convenience of pushing the liner and the possibility of water flow from the vent to the outside, we make the inner part of the insert of a smaller section. I note that in the future these plugs can be used to protect the air in the winter.

To improve ventilation conditions, air vents on opposite walls of the basement must be placed coaxially. And so that rodents are not interested in your underground, it is advisable to place a mesh with bent edges between the insert and the inner shield. After pouring concrete, the underground will be reliably protected.

After installing the inserts between the shields, insert and nail the upper spacers, which (together with the lower ones) set the width of the plinth. The rods of the upper reinforcement belt of the basement are also laid on these bars, which are fixed with nails from the transverse displacement at the time of pouring the concrete. It remains to bend up the nails with the wire wound on them, and the shields will be securely drawn to the reinforcing pins.

Vertical reinforcement elements with the considered dimensions of the structure and the conditions for loading the foundation may not be installed.

Now you need to set the height of pouring concrete into the form. To do this, set the height of the fill at the lowest point of the base. From this point, with the help of a hydraulic level, other points are “beaten off” along the entire contour of the foundation. Then, nails are driven through the shields every 1.0-1.5 m, along the protruding ends of which the top of the base is rubbed.

After marking the level of pouring concrete and installing the upper twists, you should still carefully check again (compare the diagonals, make sure that the shields are installed vertically).

For rigidity, the inner and outer contours of the shields near the corners must be pulled together with overlays (Fig. 6). And if there are gaps at the bottom of the shields, they should be covered with sand.

Rice. 6. Box formwork

Unfortunately, not all concrete trucks unload concrete with pumps. Therefore, it is necessary to properly prepare for the reception of concrete - to free the entrances and places of stops of the mixer for unloading. It may be necessary to make receiving trays. You can also prepare concrete with your own hands.

It is necessary to pour concrete in layers, carefully controlling the position of the shields. Compaction of concrete is done using vibrators, but you can do without them. Good results are also obtained with a simple tapping on the shields with the butt of an ax - then the surface of the base will be without shells and flaws. But in the corners, to prevent the formation of chipped formations, the mass of concrete must be pierced with a piece of reinforcement (Fig. 7).

Rice. 7. Compaction of concrete in corners

I note that with the traditional (with the help of stakes and spacers) system for installing shields, troubles often arise at the time of pouring concrete. For example, the top or bottom of the shield may partially deviate. This process can be stopped by various supports, but after the concrete has hardened, blisters (“belly”) may form in this place, which will spoil appearance foundation. It's even worse when the concrete is on the ground.

If a deflection of the shield is detected, the supply of concrete should be immediately stopped and the solution should be discarded with shovels from the emergency area. At this time, other masters hammer stakes. Then a brace is inserted, which at one end rests on a peg, and the other, together with a wedge, is brought under the shield (Fig. 8). The bottom of the shield is also fixed with an emphasis on the stake. After that, gently tapping on the wedge, raise the shield a little. This operation is repeated several times until the formwork is completely restored.

Rice. 8. Formwork straightening

If the bottom of the shield has moved away, then a stake is also driven into the ground and a spacer is installed between it and the shield. After that, with the butt of an ax or a sledgehammer, the spacer is gradually driven into place and the “belly” is eliminated.

Concrete is a plastic material, and it is this property that is used to restore formwork. However, this property of concrete must be considered. When the solution vibrates, significant spacer forces occur, and the mixer delivers concrete intensively. In this regard, I would like to draw the reader's attention to typical mistake when attaching shields, when the wire twist is hooked to the boards, and not to the cross-ties (Fig. 9). As a result, the boards move away from the bars and the shield deviates from the vertical.

Rice. 9. You can’t mount shields like that

When constructing the formwork in the manner proposed above, some difficulties may arise. For example, when the pins and ties-crossbars of the shields do not match (see Fig. 5). And this is natural, since it is difficult to combine them. If the difference is large, then it is better to put additional ties. So, at hand it is necessary to have a supply of the necessary material just in case.

The poured concrete is covered from cracking with sawdust, roofing felt or film and moistened with water. After the concrete hardens, proceed to the dismantling of the formwork. There are different opinions on this issue. Someone believes that this should be done after 2 weeks, others are convinced that the form cannot be disassembled until the concrete has gained full strength.

In my opinion, a long exposure time of concrete is useless. It is very difficult to tear off the boards (many of them split), and even minor irregularities cannot be corrected. You can disassemble the formwork already on the third day. Concrete by this time will already gain 25% strength, and some irregularities will not be difficult to remove mechanically. At this time, it is also convenient to close up various chips and sinks.

The finished foundation (Fig. 10) should be carefully examined and checked for the horizontality of the upper cut (view point /) and the flatness of the basement walls (view point II). If necessary, an instrumental method of control is used, a tape measure, a hydraulic level, a plumb line, etc.

Rice. 10. Foundation control

Preparing for the installation of the beam box

Any building object as a whole and each part of it separately (foundation, walls, ceilings, roof) can be characterized using such concepts as verticality, perpendicularity, parallelism, flatness and straightness.

Most of these parameters are regulated by building codes and regulations. Unfortunately, amateur developers are not always guided by them, and sometimes they are not aware of the existence of relevant standards. However, this does not reduce the importance of the requirements for structures that are enshrined in these regulatory documents. Even for a reader uninitiated in the subtleties of construction, it is obvious what, for example, non-parallel walls or their different heights can lead to. We will talk about walls today.

Bar of natural moisture

Most often, country houses are built from a bar of natural moisture. This material, which is much cheaper than profiled or glued laminated timber, allows you to build a warm and reliable home.

However, without knowledge of the basic rules for working with a bar of natural moisture, success in construction cannot be achieved.

The acquired timber should not be dried. It is necessary to fold the walls from it as quickly as possible, because during drying the material is strongly deformed: it bends, acquires a rhombic shape, or even worse, it twists with a “propeller”.

Some developers prefer to plan the timber, believing that this will allow them not to subsequently sheathe the walls. Others believe that it is necessary to sheathe and insulate walls only on one side and plan only one face of the timber. In my opinion, sheathing walls is still better than their own sides. In this case, planing the beam and chamfering its edges is not necessary.

However, if you have already decided to plan a timber, consider the following. The edge of a beam with a section of 150 × 150 mm can be planed in 2 passes, since the grip width of planers is limited. So that there are no steps on the planed surface, the planer is first planed along the beam, and the second pass is made, holding the tool at an angle a \u003d 25 ° -45 ° to the longitudinal axis ( rice, 11).

Rice. 11. Planing the edges of the timber. So that there are no steps on the planed surface, the planer is first planed along the beam, and the second pass is made at an angle to the longitudinal axis.

The beams laid in the walls dry out. As a result, deep cracks are formed into which water enters, which does not bode well for the structure. The most important thing is that when drying, the bars decrease in size. This property of wood has to be seriously considered when building log houses - shrinkage reaches 3-10% of the height of the walls.

wall requirements. Walls are a fundamental part of the structure, which determines the living conditions in the house and its architectural appearance as a whole. In accordance with this, the following basic requirements can be presented to the walls.

1. The main overall dimensions of the walls should have an optimal ratio.
2. The walls must be straight, and the joints between them (corners) must be strictly vertical.
3. Opposite walls must have the same dimensions throughout their height.
4. The plane of the upper trim of the structure must be strictly horizontal.

Certainly, this is far from complete list requirements for walls in general and for a timber box in particular. However, in amateur construction, control only on these parameters gives good results.

Bottom trim and cover

The lower trim should be securely waterproofed from the foundation. Ruberoid for this - not the best choice. Over time, it dries out, the bituminous impregnation evaporates and the wood is practically defenseless. The next method of waterproofing is more reliable. The surface of the base is coated bituminous mastic, and a layer of hydroisol is laid on it, which, thanks to the coating, is connected to concrete base without gaps. On this litter and lay the bars bottom strapping, which are pre-treated with protective compounds ( rice. 12).

Rice. 12. Installation of the lower trim and ceiling

Biosecurity of wooden structures- the most important construction operation. And here you need to do everything right away so as to ensure the durability of the building. It is no secret that any antiseptics evaporate after a few years. Getting to the structural elements in order to re-process them is difficult, if not impossible. In this regard, it is advisable to first impregnate the material with an antiseptic, and so that it does not evaporate, cover the timber from the outside with bituminous mastic. The antiseptic penetrates deep into the wood, and the mastic protects it from evaporation. Floor beams are processed in the same way.

The laid lower trim after checking the diagonals is connected with brackets ( see pic, 12, Node B), and the position assembled structure mark on the waterproofing of the basement. This is necessary to control the position of the frame on the foundation. For reliability, the strapping can be attached to the plinth with crutches or long nails through plugs. There must be at least two such fasteners on one side. After installing the lower trim, the ceiling is mounted. In construction practice, the following two of its structural schemes are most often used, one of which is the “beam-clay” scheme. In this option, beams are first laid, and logs are mounted across them. The latter are placed more often than beams. The boards placed on the edge, together with the timber, form a rigid structure capable of carrying the specified loads. It is advisable to use such a scheme if thin tongue-and-groove boards are supposed to be used for the floor. With the “beam + lag” scheme, it is easier to resolve issues effective insulation floor, however, the consumption of lumber with this type of overlap increases.

It should be noted that in summer cottage construction, the flooring scheme is much more often used only from beams, on which the floor boards are laid. In this case, a bar with a section of 100 × 200 mm is used as beams. Together with cranial bars such beams have sufficient bearing capacity and, no less important, due to their height, they also allow effective thermal insulation of the floor. When using thick floorboards, such beams can be placed in increments of up to 1 m.

The beams should be laid in such a way that there is a ventilation gap (2 cm) between their ends and the strapping. This is done with the help of gaskets, which are removed after fastening with brackets (see Fig. 12, node B). The ends of the beams must be carefully treated with an antiseptic.

The technology for installing beams is simple. First, mount the extreme beams and align them in a horizontal plane. After that, a board is placed on the edge between them and intermediate beams are installed on it. The work is usually controlled visually, and if necessary, a level is applied. Technological flooring is laid on the beams.

Labour Organization

You need to prepare for the assembly of the box, since both the quality of construction and its pace depend on the organization of work. In order for the work to be argued, the bars are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5 m from the building on one or better - on its two sides (Fig. 13). Between the rows of bars lay boards - "inch". To do this, it is advisable to use a material intended for the subfloor.

Rice. 13. Organization of the workplace

Between the stack and the log house, workplaces are equipped for marking the bars and cutting them. You can do it like this. At the desired height (depending on the height of the worker), insert between the rows of bars support boards. A beam is carefully laid on them and marked with a template. Then the workpiece is transferred to the place of cutting, the necessary operations are performed, after which, with the help of a rope, the workpiece is lifted along the slopes onto the walls and laid.

To facilitate the ascent to the slopes, it is advisable to nail the wedge-shaped stops. They will prevent the beam from sliding down uncontrollably, which can be a serious danger to workers on the construction site. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to manage with small forces. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the load, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

Bar marking

This stage of work is very responsible, because from correct markup depends on the quality of further construction. Traditionally, marking is done using a tape measure. dimensions they are removed directly from the walls, and then grooves, spikes and other profiles are marked on the ground using a square.

For example, in the case under consideration, each crown consists of 7 bars with a length of 3 to 6 m. To assemble a box, hundreds of measurements must be taken. It is possible to facilitate the work and increase its accuracy if templates are used instead of measurements. Marking in this case is reduced to a simple outline of the contours of the templates with a marker, which allows not only to reduce labor costs, but also to minimize measurement errors. The blanks, when using templates, have identical dimensions, which, ultimately, makes it possible to achieve a high quality assembly of the beam box.

Note that if traditional templates are used (one for two mirrored blanks), then 7 marking devices will be required for the construction of walls, which will inevitably clutter up the workspace (Fig. 14). Perhaps that is why many builders do not like templates, despite the obvious advantages of using them. So you need to make sure that there are not too many marking devices.

Rice. 14. Schemes for cutting beams: 1.1' - the main beam of the longitudinal wall (right and left); 2,2′ - additional bars of the longitudinal wall (right and left extensions); 3 - marking holes; 4 - marks on the edges; 5 - removed parts of the workpiece; 6 - template of the transverse wall; 7 - partition beam; 8 - beam of the transverse wall; 9 - marking holes.

Rice. 5. Scheme for the development of templates for longitudinal walls: 1 - main beam; 2 - additional beam; 3 1 partition; 4 - corner grooves; 5 - groove for partition beam; 6 - template of the longitudinal wall; 7 - extensions; a,d - cuts on the edges; b, c - marking holes.

Consider the principles of template development (Fig. 15). So, let's say we have to assemble a timber box with dimensions of 6 × 9 m. With standard lumber (6 m), this can be done, at first glance, without unnecessary waste. However, it is not. It is possible to assemble a crown 9 m long without loss of lumber only if the workpieces 6 m long and 3 m long are spliced ​​end-to-end (this masonry is often called "brick"). However, this connection is a gross construction mistake, since such a joint turns into a "cold bridge".

The correct connection of the beams is “half a tree” with an overlap of 15.. .20 cm. But then the total length of the spliced ​​parts will be not 9 m, but 8.8 m. In this case, the joints are staggered, which should be taken into account when developing template profiles.

The inner wall (partition) should be placed with some offset from the joint to the right or left. Thus, on one crown, long bars are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, laying begins in the same order, but on the right.

Having determined the exact dimensions of the parts included in each crown, you can proceed to a detailed study of the contours of the templates for the right and left execution.

Templates can be made from edged "inch" boards prepared for battens. Plasti boards should be pre-cut.

To mark the extensions, you can not make separate templates, but place them on the main templates by making 4 small cuts (“a” and “d”) on their edges and drilling two holes (“b” and “c”). Thanks to the through holes, the template becomes technologically "transparent" while its actual "opacity". Thus, a typical technical contradiction can be resolved quite simply.

After marking the template, the shaded parts are cut out. Marking devices are ready.
As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from 7 to 3 (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse ones). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.

Moreover, only a partition installed asymmetrically forces you to make 2 longitudinal templates. With a symmetrical installation, one marking device would be enough.

When developing templates, it should be taken into account that at the construction site, marking devices can be turned around the longitudinal axis by 180 °, and also moved along the longitudinal axis. It is strongly not recommended to provide for a 180° rotation of a long template around the vertical axis, since it will be practically impossible to do this during operation. Now let's look at how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is laid on the beam and the end of the template is circled with a marker on the left, then two grooves and, finally, a sample for a “half-tree” connection. The marked beam is transferred to the place of cutting, where unnecessary fragments (it is better to shade them when marking) are cut out with a chain saw.

The same is done with the second beam. On the longitudinal wall, for each full beam, we need to make an “addition”. To do this, a template is placed on the beam (position I in Fig. 14) and circled. A selection for a “half-tree” connection at the end of the workpiece is marked with an awl, pricking a beam at points “c” and “b” (see Fig. 14, node A).

Then the template is shifted (position II in Fig. 14) and outlined again. A beam with two marked additional parts is placed on linings in the cutting area. After sawing out the shaded sections, extensions are obtained for both longitudinal walls. The arrows in Fig. 14 shows the installation manipulations additional details into the walls.
Since the joints of the bars are staggered, the markings of the crown located above begin right side. Here, the elements of the corner locks are already changing: if there was a groove on the longitudinal beam, and a spike on the transverse beam, then now everything should be the other way around.

However, how to mark the details with spikes? Do you need to make separate templates for them, or do you get by with the marking devices that you already have? It is quite obvious that the tenon and groove are elements of the same assembly, which means that they must correspond to each other in size and location, which means that the pattern with grooves can be used to build tenon profiles on timber blanks. On fig. 14 (node ​​B] shows a template of a transverse wall with a groove and parts with a spike obtained with it. Moreover, for the manufacture of a partition, holes are drilled in the template, which set the width of its spike.

As for the dimensions of the stud, in no case should the stud be allowed to fit snugly into the groove. The spike will subsequently dry out, and as a result, a channel will form, which will certainly turn into a “cold bridge”. Therefore, if the dimensions of the groove are 5 × 5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions of 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with insulation.

Until now, speaking of markup, we assumed that the profile of the template is transferred to the upper face of the beam. Various grooves and spikes are sawn from the side. This means that the horizontal markup must be transferred to the vertical edge of the beam. Do this with the help of squares. According to this markup, accurate cuts are carried out.

Practical construction experience shows that it is unrealistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints. Therefore, errors often occur here when a spike is marked instead of a groove, and vice versa. And this is not surprising, if you do not use the system by which it becomes extremely simple to mark grooves and spikes. The diagram (Fig. 16) shows the walls with the designation of the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting elements at the ends of the blanks, and also the positions of the openings in the wall are indicated. Such a scheme, which can be applied directly to the template, simplifies the organization of work and prevents markup errors.

Rice. 16. Scheme for marking the corner joints of the beam box: 1 - joints of the details of the longitudinal walls; 2 - doorways


Each person who has acquired a small plot of land for a summer residence seeks to build a house in a short time, or a similar easily erected structure. So that there is a place where to relax after a hard day's work, or to hide from inclement weather. Well and to be arranged in the household plan naturally. Of course, it is desirable to build a house to accommodate the whole family, and guests who came for the weekend. Of course, the task is grandiose, but quite doable if you have accumulated savings for the construction of a country house, because it will take a large number of new building material.

If possible, you can hire hired workers to build this building.

Of course, this will add significantly financial expenses for your family, and if this is not possible, you will have to build a country house with your own hands.

Basically, the owners of dachas build their houses with their own hands in order to save money for hiring a construction team and invite relatives and friends to the construction site to help, which by itself reduces the cost of building a building.

Even summer residents sometimes use used materials, which can be purchased at half the price compared to market prices, but this will reduce the durability of the structure, also by half.

The author, when building his country house, decided not to save on the main material and buy everything on the construction market, so that it would be enough for a century and the house stood long time, pleased his family and his guests with his comfort and aesthetic appearance.

Of course, wood was chosen as the main material for the construction, what could be better and prettier than a tree. The author bought bars and boards at a local sawmill, which turned out to be much cheaper than in a hardware store.

Starting construction, I pre-drilled wells under the supporting pillars, inserted and filled cement mortar. I made the binding of the pillars with boards and left for a day to dry the solution. Then he started building, step by step going to the cherished goal.

And so now let's take a closer look at how he built his country house ik and what he needed to do it.

Materials: board 30 mm, timber 100 by 100, timber 40 by 60, floorboard 50 mm, insulation, professional sheet, rail, fiberboard.
Instruments: circular saw, drill, drill, screwdriver, hammer, shovel, electric planer, corner, ruler, tape measure, circular cut-off saw.

And so the first thing he invited was a neighbor and together they drilled wells to install poles.


Then he installed the posts, and filled the holes with cement mortar.


I made a screed at the bottom and at the top so that the pillars stood evenly, after a day after the solution had gained hardness, I proceeded to further construction.


The author makes the top harness.


Then proceeds to create the roof ridge.


















Next, he makes the roof sheathing.






Shows the rafter attachment point.


The leftovers from sawing up will also come in handy somewhere.


Then proceeds to the installation of the roof from the professional sheet.










Then he moves on to the device of the floors of the house.














So it turned out a place to store boards from precipitation.


Preparing a batch of boards by spreading them on a circular saw.




And proceeds to finish the cornice.




Sheaths the walls with boards, and closes the gaps between the boards with slats.


Next comes the ceiling lining.

A dacha is a really inexpensive house to live in, and only from a certain time we began to consider it a luxury. In fact, if you remember the old days, then these are small houses, which are half or three times smaller than the village ones, but comfortable and cozy for living at any time of the year. Therefore, it makes sense to remember how such housing is built and equipped, and take care of maximum comfort which is possible thanks to modern technologies and materials.

So, today we are building a small country house in which a small family can live freely. We will not touch on the issue of financial problems and moving to the country, but simply study the issue from the perspective of the possibility of living in such a country house for own will but not by circumstances.

What should be a country house

Everyone sets the basic requirements for a country dwelling independently, depending on personal requirements. But today we are talking about how to equip a house comfortably and at the same time economically.

Believe me, it's real!

So, what is a cozy and comfortable cottage for living inexpensively? This is a small house that has everything for cooking and personal hygiene. It is warm in winter and cool in summer. There is some inside Appliances, and on the street, in the very suburban area, there is everything for a simple holiday.

It would also be nice to have several acres of land nearby, where you can plant vegetables and fruits for personal consumption, as well as a couple of small flower beds, say, just for fun.

In fact, a person does not need so much to feel good. That is why we believe that it is possible to do without expensive intelligent systems and automated equipment. However, now you can see for yourself!

Choosing a project for a country house

To make the construction as cheap as possible, but not to get away from its quality, you can choose inexpensive project. There are enough of them on the Web and even among the housebuilders themselves, who some standard projects just give to their clients. But there is always a way to get a project and not order a house from the builders, it's easy.

You can also independently create a dwelling project, which will be convenient for you personally in terms of the location of the interior. The main thing, when determining construction materials, is that you have the opportunity to show the project to professionals in order to approve the possibility of construction.

Building area: golden mean

To build an inexpensive country house, you do not need to chase a huge area. Start from the essentials - a couple of rooms, a kitchen, a corridor, a bathroom (if it is inside the house), a small pantry. All this can fit in about 40 square meters. It will be something like an average two-room apartment which is enough for a family.

The premises themselves can be divided by area, as convenient, as long as the project passes approval.

What to build from?

Today, such buildings can be driven out of a wide variety of materials:

  • Glulam or log is a modern throwback to classic construction, but finding a good price is very difficult;
  • The construction of housing from brick or cinder block can be a little cheaper, but here it is worth considering the cost of subsequent finishing;
  • You can build a house with a frame method, for example, from SIP panels. It will be average in price and not bad in terms of energy saving.

Any building material country house it can be expensive and not very expensive, and if you study the market well, then you can even get away from the standard cost by 40-60%. This is so, because the cost has a regional affiliation, and is also aligned by many builders under the "famous" of their company.

Inexpensive building foundation

The foundation for such a house will really cost a penny. Comparatively, of course. But here it is important not only to reduce the cost of the foundation, but be sure to choose one that suits your residential building.

It is necessary to consider construction materials, roof, sheathing, because all this gives weight to the foundation. But it is also worth turning to the study of the soil, because not everywhere you can fill in a strip foundation and stop at this option. In some cases, if there are some problems with the soil, it will be necessary to use piles, and this is already an increase in the cost of the process.

Inexpensive roofing and roofing for a summer residence

Most of the roofing options we studied in a feature article earlier, and you can refer to it at any time to get the information you need.

As for the cost, today it is most advantageous to install slate or corrugated board on the roof.

There are other options, but it is always worth starting not only from savings, but also to calculate in advance the possible service life. In this case, depending on the type of roof, you can pay attention to shingles, ondulin and other types of roofing

How to build a cottage inexpensively

The answer to the question here is very simple - to build housing with your own hands! But if there are no qualifications, and a house is needed in the near future, what to do then? Just look for an inexpensive bricklayer or a team of coven workers who will be ready to inexpensively build a home for you in the country.

Anyone who has not encountered such a question will necessarily assume that this is impossible, but will certainly turn out to be wrong. Just look how many builders today are looking for earnings, and from the construction of your dacha, at least a little, but you can earn. It remains only to determine among the total number of those who offer their candidacy those who will be able to build with high quality and for the price tag you offer!

Choosing a plot for a summer residence

Today, there are a lot of proposals in dacha cooperatives. There are even absolutely cheap ones, if only a person takes the land, and with it the obligation to pay land fees and pay for water and other indicators of civilization.

It is very good if the site is selected not only by cost, but also by criteria of quality and practicality. The soil, its quality, relief, remoteness from the entrance, microdistrict or city, planting in the country, the ability to build quickly and without problems - all this is very important, but the list of requirements is far from complete. The main thing here is communications: electricity, water, gas, sewerage. Well, when at autonomous substations or even with centralized supply, the main thing is that there is light and water, the rest is simpler.

Choosing a place for building

The place for the construction of a country house should be on a hill so that the building is not affected by surface or ground water. It is advisable to locate the house at a distance from the road, from unnecessary neighborly views and road dust, and also so that the maximum number of windows faces the sunny side, because it is very good when it is light inside the dwelling.

We establish the foundation

Since we will have a building frame type, inexpensive, but very modern, we can not deepen the foundation very much, because it will only be a waste of money. You can choose a simple columnar foundation or a strip foundation. Platforms and filler plates are not needed here, that's for sure.

Under the frame house, the foundation can be installed independently, if there is even the slightest experience in construction. But if a construction team is working on the territory of the dacha, let it be better engaged in this process, since the foundation of the house plays a very serious role.

Frame installation

The frame of a country house is being built quite simply, but strictly according to the project. It is advisable to initially provide for the supply of communications in order to hide them in the thickness of the floor and walls. Also, pay attention to the need for structures such as a cellar, because it can always be under the house itself.

The installation of the frame takes place in conjunction with the installation of the truss system on the roof. If the roof of the house is own project, other options are possible.

Inexpensive home improvement

Now we need to make sure that the arrangement does not work out more expensive than construction. We will not work with the interior today, as well as with accessories and decor, but we will definitely take care of ensuring comfort inside.

In terms of home improvement, all issues should be resolved with maximum practicality!

Electricity in the house

Naturally, the easiest way to provide a house with electricity is to make wiring from the central line. But there are always support options. Of course, they can take the budget in a negative direction, but they still need to be remembered.

Electricity can be generated solar panels. In this case, it will be necessary to spend money only on the purchase and installation. Further, you will receive electricity almost free of charge, however, in small quantities.

The simplest sewerage in the country

Who said that it is very expensive to provide high-quality sewerage on the site? It's just that we are accustomed to working with septic tanks and leads to irrigation fields, which costs decently in the complex. You can always approach the issue from the other side and, for example, build a cesspool from used bricks or just one concrete ring. Of course, you will sometimes have to call a car to service such a local treatment plant, but you can always reduce costs by purchasing special additives for septic tanks. These are the bacteria that will help ensure that all effluents decompose and minimize treatment costs. cesspool.

Inexpensive water supply for summer cottages

Plumbing in a summer cottage is good, but if it is not there, a few tanks will save the situation. One can be placed outside, for summer use, and the second on the roof of the house, so that inside you can wash dishes, take a shower, and so on.

If we talk about the cost of these types of provision, then centralized water supply is always more convenient and cheaper. You pay the standard tariff for the meter and do not worry about the delivery of water, its purification.

How to build a cottage? The choice of materials (video)

Cooking and heating

It is very important that the house is warm, and there is also an oven on which you can cook. It can be a single design, for example, a modern cooking stove, which will also heat the home in winter.

Just an ordinary potbelly stove, a cast-iron stove, which is installed in any room of a country house. If not, you can build a stone oven, however, the services of a stove-maker here can seriously hit your pocket.

Inexpensive life in the country: summing up

We chose an inexpensive, but decent and high-quality plot, built a simple modern house according to frame technology. Here we have almost a standard, but if we count in terms of area and inexpensive construction of a house, then here we are already seriously saving.

We also immediately remove expensive septic tanks, stoves, electrical appliances for heating from the budget. This gives us the opportunity not only not to spend money immediately, but also not to throw away money for the maintenance of such devices and systems. Of course, there are solutions that are much more practical than a potbelly stove or water tanks, but our task was to prove that life in the country can be comfortable and inexpensive. It seems to us that we have done it, especially if, after the construction and arrangement of the house, you will also put in order and make the whole country cottage area.

We will not argue, not everyone will live in the country, and even in conditions to which we are not quite accustomed. But now you will have a separate private house, albeit small, which is a valuable property. But in the summer it's all the best place for relax!