Metal siding for frame houses. How to sheathe a house with siding under a log - sheathing a house with metal siding (7 photos). Laying the last row and finishing

29.10.2019

Frame houses are built using modern advanced technologies. The structure of the house itself consists of two components: the frame and components, such as external and internal skin, heat-insulating fillers. The frame can be either wooden or metal. Such a house is very strong, durable. Subject to the construction technology, in such a house it will be warm and cozy.

Frame house project

Without a preliminary construction plan frame house unreal. The frame house project includes the following design stages:

Designing the layout of the position of the frame house, in accordance with the rules and standards for the placement of a residential building on the site;
Architectural design– creation of a house plan, drawings, calculation of the required amount of building materials;
Structural design includes the choice of the type of foundation, the shape of the frame of the house, floors, the shape of the roof;
Heating system design, ventilation, sewerage, water supply and electricity systems;
Cost calculation materials and work of builders, workers;
Organization of construction;
Arrangement of the site.

Features that distinguish frame houses

Frame houses have a number of advantages:

Strength and durability the designs of such a house are determined by the features of the frame, the frequency of vertical beams and their thickness;
low cost construction and operation;
Simplicity and high speed of construction;
Environmental friendliness;
Can be built at any time of the year.

For the construction of frame houses, there are several recommendations that can facilitate the construction and operation of a frame house, help to avoid some mistakes during construction. When choosing materials and performing construction worksthe following tips should be followed:

To build frame house correctly, it is necessary to use wood with a moisture content of no more than 10-15%. Such wood is practically not deformed;
It is better to take building materials with a small margin;
The columnar foundation must be driven in 20-30 cm deeper than the freezing level;
All wooden Construction Materials must be treated with a special impregnation to protect against rodents and fire;
All work must be carried out sequentially, according to plan;
Before starting construction, it is necessary to work out the design of the house as carefully as possible, it will be very difficult and expensive to redo it later.

Foundation

Building a house begins with laying the foundation. For frame houses usually use two types of foundation: tape and columnar (piles). The choice depends on the following conditions:

Ground water level;
The level of soil freezing;
Soil type;
The mass of the structure of the house.

Before erecting the foundation, it is necessary to determine what elements and materials it will consist of. The dimensions of these elements, the method of reinforcement, the composition of the concrete solution. If a columnar foundation will be used, it is necessary to determine the distance between the columns and their number, as well as the depth of driving in these columns.

Floor frame

After the foundation has been erected, it is necessary to construct a floor frame, without which further construction of a frame house is impossible.

The floor frame is created as follows:

First you need to fix the boards on the foundation bottom strapping. Elements are installed on the edge. The size of the boards, on average 15X5 cm;
Connect, with self-tapping screws or dowels, the boards of the lower internal trim in the corners;
Boards of the middle part of the lower trim are attached to the inner boards;
It is necessary to attach the outer boards to the middle boards;
Before proceeding to the next step, you need to make sure that the structure is even. Excess is removed with an electric planer;
It is necessary to mark the places where the lags will be installed. With the help of a jigsaw in the harness, grooves are made for inserting a log;
After installing the lag, they are attached between them wooden slats. They will serve as supports;
a subfloor is laid on top of the slats. Usually, sheets of moisture-resistant OSB or plywood are used in this capacity;
From above, between the lags, a heater is laid: mineral wool or foam. Lay the necessary communications: water supply and sewer pipes;
A vapor barrier film is laid over the insulation. The film is glued. Boards are laid on top, 3 cm thick at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other;
A tongue-and-groove board 2.5-3 cm thick is laid on top of the resulting lattice, screwed with self-tapping screws or nailed.

On the resulting flooring, you can lay any floor covering.

Ventilation

The ventilation of a frame house must be clearly defined and thought out at the design stage. With proper ventilation, the house will be provided with an optimal microclimate.

Ventilation can be:

Natural(windows, windows, ventilation pipes);
Artificial with an installed fan (for example, a kitchen hood);
combined, when both types of ventilation are used;
Combined with air system heating.

Ventilation is simply necessary in the kitchen and toilet. At the same time, thanks to the special design of the house, all ventilation elements can be hidden behind the walls.

Wall insulation

Thermal insulation begins with the selection of insulation. Usually used in this capacity: polystyrene, polystyrene, mineral wool.

Thermal insulation of walls is carried out according to the following stages of work:

Surface preparation. The walls are cleaned of dust and dirt, protruding nails, etc.;
All cracks must be sealed with mounting foam;
Installing the crate and fixing the insulation on it;
If polystyrene or polystyrene was used as a heater, then the gaps between the sheets must be filled with sealant;
The frame of the house, along the perimeter, is upholstered with a special vapor barrier film. Instead of nails, staples and a construction stapler are used;
Sheathed with sheets of drywall or OSB.

truss system

The truss system is the supporting structure of the roof. The stability of the house and the quality of the roof depend on how well it is made.

erection truss system takes place in the following steps:

You must select the type of truss system. The rafter system consists of two rafter legs. can be built on the basis of two types of rafter system: inclined and hanging;
Choose the materials from which the frame will be assembled;
Install Mauerlat. Mauerlat are wooden bars that are laid around the perimeter on bearing walls at home, to evenly distribute the entire mass of the roof, in order to avoid distortions;
Install rafters. In the Mauerlat, grooves are made at a distance of no more than 1.5 meters from each other. Rafter legs are inserted into the grooves, the lower parts are fastened with a strapping. When installing rafters, it must be borne in mind that they should protrude 30-40 cm beyond the perimeter of the house. If the width is within 6 meters, then the hanging rafters are connected by a transverse beam;
They make a roof sheathing. The type of crate depends on what type roofing material will be used.

Self-assembly errors

During the self-construction of a frame house, the following may be allowed: the most common mistakes:

Purchase of raw wood;
Violation of wall construction technology, some component was not installed or installed incorrectly (for example, insulation was not installed);
Mistakes made during the construction of the frame, too rare or, conversely, too dense crate;
Violations in the construction of door and window connectors, which must be reinforced with a special rack.

Appearance Options

Frame house - deservedly holds the palm as the most reliable, warm, pre-fabricated and energy-efficient object of mass construction, commonly used today. The structure of frame houses has long been used in many developed countries: for example, in the USA, Australia and Canada, their percentage reaches almost 90%, and in Europe it approaches 80%. It's nice that the technology of building frame houses has reached Russia. Developers are increasingly resorting to the development of this technology, but not every one of them conscientiously observe the basic principles of frame housing construction. Sometimes the rules are broken to please non-professional builders, and often because not all builders have studied this technology. Therefore, in order not to waste money and time searching for a professional team of builders, which there are not so many today, we go to the design bureau on our own to draw up a detailed and suitable project for you, we are looking for a couple of assistants, we are preparing essential tool and literally in a couple of months, we enjoy the work done, the result of which is a finished frame house.

Do-it-yourself frame construction

In most cases, when building a house frame type wood is used to make the frame. Of course, metal can also be used, while the frame structure will weigh much lighter, but material costs will increase by almost 40%, which is a weighty argument to abandon this idea in favor of using wood. In addition, the main philosophy of frame housing construction is a significant reduction in the estimated cost of construction.

A frame house is assembled, like a children's designer, in a certain sequence, which must not be violated in order to avoid weakening and instability of the structure.

The phased order of construction can be described in the following sequence:

The foundation of a frame house

The construction of the foundation is the most important and responsible step in the construction of any object. There are a lot of technologies for its construction:, and others, each has its own nuances and features. Since the construction of a frame house is carried out with a maximum of 2 floors, it can be built on any type of foundation.

Types of foundations that can be used in the construction of frame houses

The most reasonable solution would be the construction of a strip or pile screw foundation. The task of such foundations is not so much to withstand the huge weight of the building, but to create the rigidity of fastening the base for the entire structure by adding a reinforcing frame to the monolith in the first case and connecting the piles with a grillage in the second case.

Laying the bottom rail

Before proceeding with the laying of the lower beam, you should once again check the horizontalness of the plane of the slab or grillage.

With a positive result, a waterproofing layer of roofing material is spread on the foundation around the perimeter, on top of which the beam itself is laid.

The most popular ways of fastening the beam in the corners are: the connection "in the floor of the tree" and the connection "in the paw". And one and the second way is quite reliable.

You can fasten sawn corners together 150 mm. nails (4 for each corner), or a wooden dowel, which is tightly driven into a pre-drilled hole.

In addition to connecting the docking angle, the dowel serves as a fastener for the installation of corner vertical posts, it should not be cut flush, it should protrude above the base of the lower trim beam to a height of at least 10 cm.

Options for connecting the corners of the bottom trim

Important! Before the final connection of the corners, it is necessary to make sure that the perimeter laid out from the timber has equal diagonals and right angles.

The next step is to fasten the bottom trim to the foundation. For this purpose, an anchor bolt with a diameter of 16-18 mm. For high-quality connection of two structures, the bolt must enter the base of the grillage to a depth of at least 100 mm. Anchor fastening step from 1-1.5 m. For a larger contact area, a nut of the largest possible diameter must be placed under the bolt or stud.

Fastening the bottom trim using anchors

If, at the stage of pouring the foundation, fastening studs were inserted into the tape, then anchors will not be needed in this case. In the marked beam, holes are drilled into which concreted metal studs will be inserted.

Washers with a thickness of at least 3 mm., after which they are tightly tightened with nuts. At this stage, the fastening of the lower trim can be considered complete.

Building a house frame technology, the first step is the installation of corner posts. If a wooden dowel was used when connecting the corners of the lower trim, then the pole is installed on its protruding part. To do this, the necessary hole is drilled in the lower end of the column with a brace, for their tight connection.

For greater efficiency, you can use a special bonding adhesive. The dowel must be made of hardwood, such as oak or birch, with a cross section of at least 20Ø mm.

In the case of connecting the corners of the lower trim with nails, the posts on both sides are fastened to the base of the trim with galvanized metal corners with reinforcement, thickness 4 mm. To fasten the corner, use a black phosphated wood screw.

Pole fastening using a metal corner

In both versions, the poles are additionally fixed with temporary jibs made from pieces of an ordinary board.

Firstly, this significantly weakens the main structure of the lower trim, and secondly, the complexity and necessary precision of the cuts significantly slows down the overall process of assembling the frame.

Rack installation

After final installation and fixing the corner posts, according to the project, the rest of the posts are placed at the pre-marked places according to the project.

They are attached using the same metal corner. When building frame houses, two main steps are used between the racks:

Pitch - 400 mm. The frequent step of installing racks makes the frame especially durable, which allows you to build both one-story and two-story buildings. Also, the resulting distance allows you to fix standard drywall sheets without cutting them to the desired size.
Pitch - 600 mm. Such a step is more often used in the construction of one-story buildings, because the structure in this case is less durable and simply may not withstand the load of the second floor. This step will allow you to use not only drywall, but also standard insulation without trimming.

Fig 2. Scheme of installation of window openings and their reinforcement

In places of windows and doorways, due to the lack of a full-fledged vertical rack, the frame must be additionally reinforced.

To do this, one more board is added to the side racks relative to the window. They are adjacent to the main stepping post of the wall, from the lower trim to the upper beam of the window opening.

A load-bearing crossbar is installed above the opening. This strengthens the load-bearing capacity of the weakened node structure. (see fig. 2).

Laying the timber of the upper strapping

The corners of the upper trim, similarly to the lower trim, are connected to the “floor of the tree” or to the “paw”, only to fasten them to the corner posts, the use of a dowel is no longer necessary, it will be enough to have a couple of nails hammered from above and one corner on each side of the post.

According to the same principle “corners below and two nails on top”, the upper trim is connected to the rest of the racks. Before installation, it is important to check the verticality of all exposed racks for the last time.

Top trim scheme

floor beams

The floor beam is edged board installed across the top harness. The method of attaching the beams is a nail, a metal corner.

It is necessary to place the beams directly above the vertical posts, so the load of the second floor will be distributed evenly on all load-bearing walls.

Beam sections for different spans:

If the aperture ratio is not equal 1m., then rounding the intermediate number, we use the closest value given from the table.

In order for the structure to have a large bearing capacity, it is necessary to place the floor beams perpendicular to the wall, which has a large length.

For example, take a house with dimensions 5x8 m., so the beams must be laid perpendicular to the wall, which has a length 8 m. If a design feature roof for its overhang requires the departure of beams, it is necessary to take this into account initially and make the size of the beams longer.

Bevels and jumpers

For resistance strong winds, the frame house must have special strength. Therefore, it is desirable to strengthen all the main racks and corner posts with so-called slopes. The slopes are made from a bar with a size 70x50 mm.

There are 4 cuttings for each rack (2 on top and 2 on the bottom). Using a tape measure and a level, the diagonal and vertical of the resulting spans are checked.

For tight contact of the bar with the elements to be connected, it must be cut at the desired angle, after which, using nails, they must be mounted.

Second no less effective method strengthening the frame - installing horizontal jumpers between the bearing racks, this will significantly add spatial rigidity to the structure, and also prevent vertical slipping of the insulation, being a horizontal support for it.

The material for the jumpers is a board of the same dimensions as the racks themselves. It is necessary to install jumpers proportionally dividing the span into equal sections. Fastening is also done with a nail.

The construction of the truss system

Builders strongly do not recommend using natural tiles or other heavy materials, for this you need an expert opinion from a qualified specialist on the possibility of using this type of roof, which he can give only after a full study of the bearing capacity of the frame.

You can learn more about the technology of building a truss system in this video:

As you can see, a frame house is being built with your own hands quite quickly and simply. Having certain skills in construction and the necessary tools, a team of two to three people will be able to build this type of structure in a fairly short time.

Have you ever encountered the fact that in discussions on the forums the topic of the “right” or “wrong” frame house pops up? Often people are poked with their noses at the fact that the frame is wrong, but it is hard to explain clearly why it is wrong and how it should be. In this article I will try to explain what is usually hidden behind the concept of a “correct” frame, which is the basis of a frame house, just like a human skeleton. In the future, I hope, we will consider other aspects.

Surely you know that the foundation is the foundation of the house. This is true, but the frame house has another basis - no less important than the foundation. This is the frame itself.

Which frame house is “correct”?

I'll start with the main one. Why is it so difficult to talk about the right frame house? because the only correct correct frame house does not exist. What a surprise, isn't it? 🙂

You will ask why? Yes, very simple. A frame house is a large constructor with many solutions. And there are many decisions that can be called correct. There are even more decisions - “semi-correct”, but there are a legion of “wrong” ones.

Nevertheless, among the variety of solutions, one can single out those that are usually meant when speaking of “correctness”. This is a frame of the American and, more rarely, Scandinavian type.

Why are they considered examples of “correctness”? Everything is very simple. The vast majority of private homes for permanent residence in America, and a very significant percentage in Scandinavia, are built using frame technology. This technology has been used there for more than a dozen and perhaps even a hundred years. During this time, all possible cones were filled, all possible options were sorted out and a certain universal scheme was found that says: do this and with a probability of 99.9% you will be fine. Moreover, this scheme is the optimal solution for several characteristics at once:

Structural reliability of solutions.
Optimal labor costs during construction.
Optimal cost of materials.
Good thermal performance.

Why step on your own rake if you can use the experience of people who have already stepped on this rake? Why reinvent the wheel if it has already been invented?

Remember. Whenever we are talking about the “correct” frame or about the “correct” nodes of a frame house, then, as a rule, this means standard solutions and nodes used in America and Scandinavia. And the frame itself satisfies all the above criteria.

What frameworks can be called “semi-regular”? Basically, these are those that differ from the typical Scandinavian-American solutions, but, nevertheless, also satisfy at least two criteria - reliable design and good solutions in terms of heat engineering.

Well, I would classify all the rest as “wrong”. Moreover, their “incorrectness” is often conditional. It is not at all a fact that the “wrong” frame will necessarily fall apart. Such a scenario is actually extremely rare, although it does occur. Basically, the “wrongness” lies in some controversial and not the best decisions. As a result, it becomes difficult where it can be done easier. More material is used where less is possible. A colder or more inconvenient design for subsequent work is made than it could be.

The main drawback of the “wrong” frames is that they do not give absolutely any gains compared to the “correct” or “semi-correct” ones - neither in reliability, nor in cost, nor in labor costs ... nothing at all.

Or these advantages are far-fetched and generally questionable. In extreme cases (and there are some), improper framing can be dangerous and result in a home needing a major overhaul in just a few years.

Now let's look at the issue in more detail.

Key Features of the American Frame

The American frame is practically a standard. It is simple, strong, functional and reliable as an iron saw. It is easy to assemble, it has a large margin of safety.

Americans are tight-fisted guys, and if they manage to save a couple of thousand dollars on a construction site, they will definitely do it. At the same time, they will not be able to stoop to outright hack-work, since there is strict control in the construction industry, insurance companies will refuse to pay out in case of problems, and the customers of would-be builders will quickly sue and rip negligent contractors like sticky.

Therefore, the American frame can be called the standard in terms of the ratio: price, reliability, result.

American frame is simple and reliable

Let's take a closer look at the main points that distinguish the American wireframe scheme:

Typical nodes of a frame house

Beam in racks and harnesses is almost never used, unless it is due to some specific conditions. Therefore, the first thing that distinguishes the “correct” frame house is the use of dry lumber and the absence of timber in the walls. By this criterion alone, you can discard 80% of Russian companies and teams operating in the frame market.

Moments that distinguish the American frame:

Corners - There are several different ways to implement corners, but nowhere do you see a beam as a corner post.
Double or triple racks in the area of window and door openings.
The amplifier above the openings is a board mounted on an edge. The so-called "header" (from the English header).
Double top strapping from the board, no timber.
The overlap of the lower and upper rows of strapping at key points - corners, different fragments of walls, junctions of internal partitions to external walls.

Ukosina I specifically did not note as a distinctive moment. Since in the American style, in the presence of sheathing with OSB3 boards (OSB) on the frame, there is no need for jibs. The plate can be considered as an infinite number of jibs.

Let's talk in more detail about the key features of the correct frame in the American version.

Correct corners of the frame house

In fact, on the Internet, even in the American segment, you can find about a dozen schemes. But most of them are outdated and rarely used, especially in cold regions. I will highlight three main angle patterns. Although realistically, only the first two are the main ones.

Knots of the corners of the frame house

Option 1 - the so-called "California" corner. The most common option. Why "California" - I have no idea :). From the inside, another board or strip of OSB is nailed to the extreme rack of one of the walls. As a result, a shelf is formed on the inside of the corner, which later serves as a support for the interior decoration or any inner layers of the wall.
Option 2 - closed corner. Also one of the most popular. The bottom line is an additional rack in order to make a shelf on the inner corner. Of the advantages: the quality of the insulation of the corner is better than in option 1. Among the disadvantages: such a corner can only be insulated from the outside, that is, this must be done before sheathing the frame with something from the outside (plates, membrane, etc.)
Option 3 - "Scandinavian" warm corner. A very rare variant, not used in America. I saw it in Scandinavian frames, but not often. Why did I bring him then? Because, in my opinion, this is the warmest version of the corner. And I'm thinking about starting to apply it to our facilities. But before using it, you need to think, since it is structurally inferior to the first two and will not work everywhere.

What is the peculiarity of all these three options and why is a beam a bad option for a corner?

Angle from a bar, the most losing option

If you notice - in all three options from the boards, the corner can be insulated. Somewhere more, somewhere less. In the case of a beam in the corner, we immediately have 2 drawbacks: firstly, from the point of view of heat engineering, such a corner will be the coldest. Secondly, if there is a beam in the corner, then there are no “shelves” from the inside to attach the interior trim to it.

Of course, the last question can be solved. But remember what I said about “wrong” wireframes? Why make it difficult when you can make it easier? Why make a beam, creating a bridge of cold and thinking how to attach the finish to it later, if you can make a warm corner from the boards? Despite the fact that this will not affect the amount of material or the complexity of the work.

Openings and top trim are the most significant difference between the American frame scheme and the Scandinavian one, but more on that later. So, when they talk about the correct openings in the frame, they usually talk about the following scheme (window and door openings are made according to the same principle).

Correct openings in a frame house

The first thing (1) that people usually pay attention to when talking about “wrong” openings is the double and even triple posts on the sides of the opening. It is often believed that this is necessary for some kind of strengthening of the opening to install a window or door. Actually this is not true. A window or door will be fine on single racks. Why then do we need cohesive boards?

Everything is elementary. Remember, I said that the American frame is as simple and reliable as an iron saw? Pay attention to figure 2. And you will understand that cohesive racks are needed solely to support the elements lying on them. So that the edges of these elements do not hang on nails. Simple, reliable and versatile.

In Figure 3 - one of the simplified varieties, when the bottom trim of the window crashes into a broken rack. But at the same time, both window trims still have supports at the edges.

Therefore, it is impossible to speak formally about the fact that if the racks are not doubled, then this is “wrong”. They can also be single, as in the Scandinavian frame. Rather, it is a mistake when the posts along the edges of the openings are cohesive, but do not bear the load from the elements based on them. In this case, they are simply meaningless.

In this case, the horizontal elements are hanging on the fasteners, so there is no point in doubling or tripling the racks on the sides.

Now let's talk about an element that is already more critical and the absence of which can be considered as an "irregularity" of the opening. This is the “header” above the opening (header).

Window header

This is the really important element. As a rule, some kind of load will come from above to the window or doorway - the logs of the second floor, the rafter system. And the wall itself is weakened by deflection in the area of the opening. Therefore, local reinforcements are made in the openings. American style is headers. In fact, this is a board mounted on an edge above the opening. Here it is already important that the edges of the header either rest on the posts (if the classic American scheme with cohesive posts of openings is used), or be cut into the extreme posts, if they are single. Moreover, the cross section of the header directly depends on the loads and dimensions of the opening. The larger the opening and the stronger the load on it, the more powerful the header. It can also be double, triple, increased in height, etc. Again, it depends on the load. But, as a rule, for openings up to 1.5 m wide, a header from a 45x195 board is enough.

Is the absence of a header a sign that the framework is “wrong”? Yes and no. If you act according to the American principle of “simple and reliable”, then the header must be present at every opening. Do this and be sure of the result.

But in fact, you need to dance from the load falling on the opening from above. For example, a narrow window in a one-story house and rafters in this section of the wall are located along the edges of the opening - the load from above on the opening is minimal and you can do without a header.

Therefore, the issue of the header should be treated as follows. If it exists, great. If it is not there, then the builders (contractor) must clearly explain why, in their opinion, it is not needed here, and it will depend, first of all, on the load falling on the opening zone from above.

Double top harness

Double plank top piping, also a distinctive feature of the American frame

Double top harness

The double strapping again gives reinforcement along the top of the wall for deflection from the load from above - the load from the ceiling, rafters, etc. In addition, pay attention to the overlaps of the second row of strapping.

Overlap in the corner - we tie together two perpendicular walls.
Overlap in the center - we tie together 2 sections of one wall.
Overlap on the partition - we tie together the partition with the outer wall.

Thus, the double strapping also performs the second task - ensuring the integrity of the entire wall structure.

In the domestic version, you can often find the upper trim of the timber. And this, again, is not the best solution. Firstly, the beam is thicker than the double strapping. Yes, it may be better for deflection, but it’s not a fact that it is necessary, but the cold bridge at the top of the wall will be more significant. Well, it’s more difficult to implement this overlap to ensure the integrity of the entire structure. Therefore, we return again to the fact that why is it difficult to do, if you can make it easier and more reliable?

Proper jib in a frame house

Another cornerstone. Surely you have come across the phrase “the jibs are made incorrectly”. Let's talk about it. First, what is a slug? This is a diagonal element in the wall, which provides spatial shear rigidity in the lateral plane. Because thanks to the jib, a system of triangular structures appears, and the triangle is the most stable geometric figure.

So, when they talk about the correct jib, then usually we are talking about this option:

Correct jib

Why is such a jib called “correct” and what should I pay attention to?

Such a jib is installed with an angle of 45 to 60 degrees - this is the most stable triangle. Of course, the angle may be different, but it is this range that is best.
The jib cuts into the upper and lower trim, and does not just rest against the rack - this is quite an important point, so we tie the structure together.
The jib crashes into every post in its path.
For each node - adjoining to the harness or rack, there must be at least two fastening points. Since one point will give a “hinge” with a certain degree of freedom.
The jib cuts into the rib - this way it works better in the structure and interferes less with insulation.

And here is an example of the most “wrong” jib. But nevertheless, it occurs all the time.

It's just a board stuck into the first opening of the frame. What is so “wrong” about it, because formally it is also a triangle?

First - a very small angle of inclination.
Secondly, in such a plane, the jib board works the worst.
Thirdly, it is difficult to fix such a jib to the wall.
Fourthly, pay attention to the fact that at the points of junction with the frame, cavities that are extremely inconvenient for warming are formed. Even if the jib is carefully cut and there is no gap at the end, there is no escape from an acute angle, and it is not an easy task to insulate such an angle with high quality, so most likely it will be done somehow.

Another example, also common. This is a jib cut into the posts, but not cut into the harness.

The jib is not embedded in the harness

This option is already much better than the previous one, but, nevertheless, such a jib will work worse than embedded in the strapping, and after all, the work is 5 minutes more. And if, moreover, it is fixed to each rack with only one nail, then the effect of it will also be minimized.

We won’t even consider options for all sorts of small inferior “braces and braces” that do not reach from the top trim to the bottom.

Formally, even the most crooked jib makes at least some contribution. But once again: why do it your way when a good solution already exists?

On this we will finish with the American frame and move on to the Scandinavian one.

Correct scandinavian frame

Unlike America, where the frames are practically standardized and there are very few differences, there are more variations in Scandinavia. Here you can find both the classic American frame and hybrid versions. The Scandinavian frame, in fact, is the development and modernization of the American one. However, basically, when they talk about the Scandinavian frame, we are talking about such a design.

Typical Scandinavian house set

scandinavian frame

Corners, jibs - everything is like the Americans. What to pay attention to?

Single strapping on the top of the wall.
Power crossbar embedded in racks throughout the wall.
Single racks on window and door openings.

In fact, the main difference is this very “Scandinavian” crossbar - it replaces both American headers and double strapping, being a powerful power element.

What, in my opinion, is the advantage of the Scandinavian frame over the American one? The fact that it has a much greater emphasis on minimizing all kinds of cold bridges, which are almost all cohesive boards (double strapping, opening racks). Indeed, between each cohesive boards, a gap can potentially form over time, which you may never know about. Well, it's one thing when the cold bridge has the width of one board and another question - when there are already two or three of them.

Of course, you should not get hung up on cold bridges. You can’t get away from them anyway, and in fact, their importance is often exaggerated. But, nevertheless, they exist, and if it is possible to minimize them relatively painlessly, why not do it?

The Scandinavians in general, unlike the Americans, are very confused about energy saving. The colder, northern climate and expensive energy sources also have an effect. But in terms of climate, Scandinavia is much closer to us (I'm talking primarily about the Northwestern region) than most American states.

The disadvantage of the Scandinavian frame is its slightly greater complexity, at least in the fact that in all racks you need to make cuts under the crossbar. And the fact that, unlike the American one, it still requires some kind of mental effort. For example: on large openings, double posts to support horizontal elements, and additional crossbars and headers may be required. And somewhere, for example, on the gable walls of one-story buildings, where there is no load from the log or roof, the crossbar may not even be required.

In general, the Scandinavian frame has certain advantages, but requires a little more effort and intelligence than the American one. If the American frame can be assembled with completely disabled brains, then in the Scandinavian one it is better to turn them on, at least on the minimum mode.

"Semi-correct" frames

Let me remind you that by “semi-correct” I mean precisely those that have every right to exist, but differ from typical Scandinavian-American solutions. Therefore, calling them “semi-correct” should be cautious.

I will give a few examples.

An example of how you can "override"

The first example is from our own practice. This house was built by us, but according to the project provided by the customer. We even wanted to redo the project completely, but we were limited by the deadlines, since we had to go to the site; in addition, the customer paid a tangible amount for the project and formally there are no structural violations, but he resigned himself to the voiced shortcomings of the current solution.

Why, then, did I classify this frame as “semi-correct”? Pay attention to the fact that here there are Scandinavian crossbars, and American headers, and double strapping not only along the top, but also along the bottom of the walls. In short, here is the American scheme, and the Scandinavian one, and another 30% of the stock in Russian is thrown on top, just in case. Well, the prefabricated rack of 6 (!!!) boards under the glued beam of the ridge speaks for itself. After all, in this place the only insulation is isoplats from the outside, and cross-insulation from the inside. And if there was a purely American scheme, then there would simply be no insulation in this section of the wall, a bare piece of wood from the outside to the inside.

I call this frame “semi-correct” because from the point of view of constructive reliability, there are no complaints about it. There is a multiple margin of safety "in case of an atomic war." But the abundance of cold bridges, and a huge overrun of material for the frame, and high labor costs, which also affects the price.

This house could be made with a smaller, but sufficient margin of safety, but at the same time reduce the amount of lumber by 30 percent and significantly reduce the number of cold bridges, making the house warmer.

Another example is a “double-volume” framework promoted by a Moscow company.

The main difference is actually a double outer wall, with posts spaced apart from each other. So the frame fully satisfies the strength criteria and is very good from the point of view of heat engineering, due to the minimization of cold bridges, but loses in manufacturability. The task of eliminating cold bridges, which, first of all, is solved by such a frame, can be solved by simpler, more reliable and correct methods such as “cross-insulation”.

And, curiously, usually “semi-correct” frames somehow have Scandinavian-American solutions in them. And the differences are rather in an attempt to improve the good. But it often happens that it turns out that “the best is the enemy of the good”.

Such frames can safely be called “semi-correct” precisely because there are no gross violations here. There are differences from the typical American-Scandinavian decisions in attempts to improve something or come up with some kind of “trick”. To pay for them or not is the choice of the customer.

"Wrong" frame houses

Now let's talk about the "wrong" frames. The most typical, I would even say, collective, case is presented in the photo below.

The quintessence of "correct" frame housing construction

What can be immediately noted in this photo?

Total use of natural moisture material. Moreover, the material is massive, which dries out the most and changes its geometry in the process of shrinkage.
Beam in the corners and on the strapping and even on the racks are cold bridges and inconvenience in further work.
Lack of headers and reinforcements of openings.
Do not understand how the jib is made, poorly fulfilling its role and interfering with insulation.
Assembly on corners with black self-tapping screws, the purpose of which is to fasten the plasterboard during finishing (and not use in load-bearing structures).

The photo above shows almost the quintessence of what is commonly called the “wrong” frame or “RSK”. The abbreviation RSK appeared in 2008 at the FH, at the suggestion of one builder who presented a similar product to the world, called the Russian Power Frame. Over time, as people began to figure out what was what, this abbreviation began to be deciphered as Russian Strashen Karkashen. As an apotheosis of meaninglessness with a claim to a unique solution.

What is most curious, if desired, it can also be classified as “semi-correct”: after all, if the self-tapping screws do not rot (black phosphated self-tapping screws are by no means an example of corrosion resistance) and do not burst during the inevitable shrinkage of the beam, this frame is unlikely to fall apart. That is, such a design has the right to life.

What is the main disadvantage of the “wrong” frames? If people know what they're doing, they pretty quickly come to the Canadian-Scandinavian scheme. Fortunately, information is now in bulk. And if they don’t come, then this speaks of one thing: they, by and large, do not care about the result. The classic answer when trying to ask them why is this is “we have always built this way, no one complained”. That is, the entire construction is based solely on intuition and ingenuity. Without trying to ask - how is it customary to do this.

What prevented you from making a board instead of a beam? Make reinforcements of openings? Make normal cuts? Collect for nails? That is, do it right? After all, such a frame does not give exactly any advantages! One large set of not the best solutions with a claim to super strength, etc. Moreover, the labor input is the same as that of the “correct” one, the cost is the same, and the material consumption, perhaps even more.

Summarize

As a result: it is customary to call the American-Scandinavian frame scheme “correct”, due to the fact that it has already been repeatedly tested on thousands of houses, proving its viability and the optimal ratio of “labor-intensive-reliability-quality”.

“Semi-correct” and “incorrect” include all other types of frames. In this case, the frame can be quite reliable, but “non-optimal” from the side of the above.

As a rule, if potential contractors cannot justify the use of certain design solutions that differ from the “correct” American-Scandinavian ones, this indicates that they have no idea about these very “correct” decisions and build a house solely on a whim, replacing knowledge with intuition and ingenuity. And this is a very risky path that may come back to haunt the owner of the house in the future.

So. Do you want guaranteed correct, optimal solutions? Pay attention to the classic American or Scandinavian scheme of frame housing construction.

about the author

Hello. My name is Alexey, maybe you met me as Porcupine or Gribnick on the Internet. I am the founder of "Finnish House", a project that has grown from a personal blog into a construction company whose goal is to build a quality and comfortable home for you and your children.

With a limited budget, many decide to build a house on their own. We will not dissuade you from such a decision. This is really a bold step that will require a lot of strength and knowledge from you. Well, if construction is not just a hobby for you, and you are familiar with most of the operations. But what if this is your first experience? What technology to choose for construction? Where to begin? What elements of the house require special attention? Frame structures are perfect for building a house with your own hands. We will try to figure out how to build such a frame house with our own hands, step-by-step instructions will help you with this.

This is a building whose walls are built on the basis of a wooden frame. The walls, floor and ceiling of such houses are made up of dissimilar materials, which is also called "pie" by experts.

The frame structure has many advantages, such as high energy efficiency, environmental friendliness of the construction process, low weight. But why do we recommend this particular technology in the case of building a house with our own hands?

Firstly, if the question arose in favor of building on your own for financial reasons, then a frame house will help you save a lot of money. After all, such a building of a similar area and purpose will bypass 35-40% cheaper than a log house made of logs or timber and almost 2 times cheaper than a brick structure.
Secondly, the low weight of the house will require a less complex foundation. Even in the case of pouring a strip foundation, you can do all the work yourself. The light weight of the house as a whole also indicates the low weight of individual structures. In the case of assembling the frame on the building site, you only need a pair of auxiliary hands to install the building under the roof.
Thirdly, the construction of such houses will require only a standard set of tools for carpentry work: a saw, a level, a hammer, a screwdriver or a drill, a construction stapler. In the case of work with some types of finishes, an additional tool may be required, but we have already named the main set for you. The construction of a frame house does not require the involvement of heavy special equipment.
Fourth, even without special skills, but carefully following the installation instructions for each element of the frame, you can build a reliable and comfortable home for both summer and year-round use.

Building a frame house: step by step

Before proceeding with construction, it should be mentioned that frame technology is conditionally divided into North American and Scandinavian types. At some stages of work, these types of frames are almost identical, and at some they require special attention.

The Finnish house is assembled on the basis of a timber frame. The walls are sheathed inside and outside with finishing or rough finishing materials. The wall is filled with mineral insulation.

The Canadian house is also built on a timber frame (sometimes without a frame). The key difference is the insulation used: these are polystyrene-based organic insulation. It is a mistake to say that the Canadian frame house is built only on the basis of SIP panels. This is just one of the options for the construction of such frames.

So, you can start building a frame house step by step.

Design work

First of all, you should spend time drawing up a detailed project of the future home. It is important to discuss with each of the household elements of the house, necessary for convenience and comfort. It is also necessary to draw up a project for the location of the building on your site.

Design work can be divided into several stages:

Selection of building site.
Choosing the destination of the future home and a preliminary calculation of the dimensions. It is necessary to decide whether it will be a country house or a place of permanent residence. It is necessary to calculate the approximate financial possibilities. In the case of building a residential building with your own hands, its turnkey cost will be from 15,000 rubles. per 1 square meter (depending on technology, number of floors and finishing options).
Selecting a project for construction. A lot of projects of frame houses can be found on the Internet. Most developers' websites also indicate the cost of building a turnkey project. If you are satisfied with the indicated cost and the project as a whole, then you can take it into service. We do not recommend redrawing the project on your own without knowledge in the construction business. It is important to understand that the construction of a large house will require not only a facade project and building layout. Prior to construction, it is necessary to have a set of drawings for each element of the building and communications. It is important to have a project of engineering systems at home, because most of their elements are laid inside the walls, floor and ceiling even at the stage of wall construction.
Estimate the necessary materials and search for suppliers. Continuous work on the site will require a stable supply of materials. It is better to conclude the necessary supply contracts even before the start of work. This will allow you to avoid many problems.

In addition to work with the project and the purchase of materials, we recommend that you conduct a geological survey of soils. This is necessary for the correct choice of the type of foundation. It is also important to solve problems with sewerage and water supply. The arrangement of the septic tank is often carried out before the start of other work. The water supply of a private house is often solved with the help of a well, for this it is also necessary to survey the site by specialists. You may have to move the location of the house.

So, you have in your hands a project and a clear drawing of all the elements of your home. The layout of the arrangement of your site is marked. Problems with the supply of materials were resolved. You can consider yourself ready to start work on the site.

Foundation installation

Having a detailed project and estimate for materials, you can calculate the approximate weight of your building. This is important for the correct calculation of the foundation. The foundation is one of the most important stages of work, the life of your home will depend on its reliability. Therefore, it is important to know the bearing capacity of soils. Depending on it and the total weight of the house, the required area of \u200b\u200bthe support of the building is calculated. After that, it remains to choose the type of foundation: columnar, pile, tape, base on screw piles, monolithic slab. Consider the order of work on each of the options.

Column Foundation

The columnar foundation is used for one-story houses on solid ground. The basis for the grillage are concrete pillars or asbestos-cement pipes.

Work order. The site is cleared, markings are made with the help of twine and pegs at the installation sites of the pillars. Depending on the length of the column, pits are dug, on the bottom of which a sand cushion at least 15 cm thick is filled up and rammed. Next, pillars are installed with adjustment of the sand cushion to install the pillars at the same level. Now you can fill up and compact the soil around the post. A grillage for a columnar foundation is usually the lower trim of a house made of timber. Before laying the timber, a layer of waterproofing is laid on each post: roofing material or glassine.

Pile foundations

Pile foundations are conditionally divided into bored and reinforced concrete. In the case of work with factory-made reinforced concrete piles, the installation procedure does not differ from the construction of a columnar foundation.

The procedure for working with bored piles. Preparatory work also consists in clearing and marking the pile field. In places where piles are poured, pits are dug or holes are drilled with a diameter of at least 250 mm. Sand is also poured into the holes and primed. After that, formwork is assembled from edged boards, plywood or roofing material. Concrete is poured into which pre-bonded reinforcement is immersed. The ends of the reinforcement rods usually protrude above the plane of the piles for the subsequent fixing of the wooden grillage. In the case of mounting a reinforced concrete grillage, the reinforcement of the horizontal grillage is tied to these pieces of reinforcement. Formwork is also mounted under the grillage. Concrete is poured into the already connected reinforcement. A layer of waterproofing is also laid between the wooden grillage and the pile plane or between the concrete grillage and the Mauerlat.

Foundation on screw piles

The foundation on screw piles is a young technology for the construction of foundations, previously it was used only for military temporary buildings, the construction of marinas and other surface facilities. The essence of the technology lies in the screwing of special hollow pipes with blades at the end, which makes it possible to equip the foundation on any soil. There are screw piles of different diameters and lengths, which makes it possible to use them for almost any building, especially frame houses.

The procedure for working with screw piles. We carry out all the same preparation of the site and its marking. To simplify the start of screwing, pits are dug in at the pile installation sites, removing the sod. Further, with the help of a special head for fastening the levers, these levers are installed and the pile is screwed with constant control of its verticality. A metal platform is welded onto the base of the pile for ease of fixing the grillage. A grillage can serve as the lower trim of a house made of timber or metal.

Strip foundation

Strip foundation means pouring reinforced concrete tape around the entire perimeter of the house and under all supporting structures. For frame houses, a shallow foundation is usually used with a basement height of 200 mm.

Work order. After marking the foundation, they dig a trench with a width of at least 250 mm. At the bottom of the trench, sand is poured and rammed. Next, the formwork is mounted and pre-bonded reinforcement is installed, which is responsible for the bending and breaking strength of the tape. Then the concrete is poured. After the final maturation of the concrete, a layer of waterproofing is laid and the Mauerlat is laid.

slab foundation

A monolithic reinforced slab is poured under the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe house. It is applied only on superdifficult floating soils.

Work order. A pit is dug according to the markup, a sand cushion is filled up. Reinforcement or a metal mesh is laid, concrete is poured with laying holes for communications.

As you have already noticed, after installing the foundation, a layer of waterproofing and the lower trim of the house are laid, which must be treated with deep penetration antiseptics.

Installation of the lower trim, floor joists and subfloor

Another feature of frame structures is the installation of the floor before the walls are erected. We have already laid the lower trim of the house from the timber on the finished foundation. Now you need to install the floor beams. For this, a bar with a section of 50x150 or 50x200 mm is used. The logs can be sawn into the lower trim beam, installed on top of the lower trim using mounting brackets, or mounted in the same plane with the lower trim (spread out) using special beam supports.

In the case of floor insulation with mineral heaters, the logs are installed in increments of 1.5-2 cm less than the overall dimensions of the heater. In the case of insulation with sheets of expanded polystyrene or extrusion - strictly a multiple of the overall size of the sheet. If the floor is covered with floor SIP panels, the step between the joists must be equal to the width of the panels, which must be joined strictly on the joist.

First, extreme lags are installed. The level of the lag itself and the plane between them is controlled. After the level is “caught”, the twine is pulled between the beginning and end of the lag and diagonally between them. Intermediate lags are installed along this twine.

After installing the log, it is necessary to install the subfloor, which serves as the basis for insulation. In the case of installation of floor panels, there is no need for a rough coating. The draft floor can be mounted on top of the log - a board or sheet material (OSB, plywood, chipboard) is laid. In this case, another row of logs is installed on top of the subfloor across the primary floor beams.

Most often, the draft floor is mounted between the floor lags. To do this, a bar with a section of 50x50 or 40x50 mm is fixed to the side surface of the log. It is floored with boards or sheet material. Regardless of the method of laying the subfloor, a vapor-permeable membrane is laid on top of it to remove dew point vapor from the thickness of the insulation (in the case of insulation with mineral heaters) or the joints are sealed when insulated with polystyrene foam.

Floor insulation and flooring

Insulation can be laid in the finished base between the lags (primary or secondary). In the case of mineral insulation, each layer is laid with a shift in the joints of the insulation to avoid cold bridges. When insulating with polystyrene, all joints are foamed. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of any insulation. After that, you can immediately mount the finishing or rough floor covering: solid or parquet board, plywood, chipboard, OSB, etc.

Construction and insulation of walls

Walls are a key difference between Finnish and Canadian frame building technology. Therefore, we will consider them separately.

Finnish technology

For the construction of the frame, it is very important to have a strict drawing of each of the walls of the future house. Without this, it is impossible to strictly place all the elements of the frame and trim (window and door openings, communication elements). Each post and horizontal header (reinforcement of openings) must be located in its place. All elements of the framework of load-bearing and intermediate walls are fixed to the floor and to each other with the help of mounting brackets and self-tapping screws. Installation begins with load-bearing racks, intermediate ones are installed between them in a strict plane, controlling their verticality.

After mounting the frame, the inner or outer skin is produced. There are a lot of options for this, and each has strict installation instructions. We will not consider each of them. It is only important to observe the correct "pie": outer skin - vapor-permeable membrane - frame with insulation - vapor barrier film - inner skin. Sometimes a counter-lattice with a thickness of at least 20 mm is laid between the outer skin and the membrane for better ventilation.

Canadian technology

In the case of the construction of a Canadian house based on a frame, no films are laid. Extrusion plates are mounted between the beams, all gaps and joints are carefully sealed with mounting foam.

Separately, it is worth considering the installation of SIP panels. In this case, a cranial block is sewn onto the finished flooring in strict accordance with the drawing of the panel arrangement. The bar has a section that strictly corresponds to the groove on the underside of the panel. Mounting foam is applied to the surface of the bar and panels are installed. From one of the corners of the house, the installation of panels begins, temporarily securing them with props. The side surface of the panel is also pre-foamed for a snug fit of each element. The final fasteners are made during the installation of the upper trim and ceiling beams.

In the case of installation, ready-made walls are brought to the facility, which are mounted using lifting equipment. The walls are fixed to each other by the upper strapping and ceiling beams.

Ceiling beams and ceiling insulation

The pitch and section of the ceiling beams are selected according to the principle of floor lags. Ceiling logs are also installed according to the floor principle. The ceiling of the first floor serves as the basis for insulation. It is also important to observe the correct "pie" of insulation.

For a house with a cold attic: ground floor ceiling sheathing - vapor barrier - ceiling beams with insulation - vapor-permeable membrane - attic flooring.

For interfloor overlapping: ceiling sheathing of the first floor - vapor barrier - ceiling beams with insulation - vapor barrier - floor covering of the second floor.

Installation of rafters and roofing material

The roof is one of the most complex elements of a frame house. But if you have a detailed and clear drawing indicating the size and location of the puffs, supports and rafter legs, you can completely carry out the installation with your own hands. On the rafters, the lathing is sewn from edged boards or sheet materials, depending on the selected roofing material. Installation of the finishing roof must also be carried out in accordance with the instructions. We will not consider this technology for each roofing material.

Finishing work

After finishing work on the roof, you can start finishing. Frame houses have a high level of preparation for finishing, because often the walls inside and outside are already finished with finishing material, and most of the communication elements are already embedded in the walls.

One of the disadvantages of frame houses is the effect of a thermos. They do not have gas exchange and vapor exchange with the environment, so it is very important to mount ventilation: under the floor, in the walls and under the roofing material. You can find the rules for arranging ventilation for each type of frame on the Internet with detailed drawings of the location of each element.

Conclusion

Of course, a frame house cannot be built based only on this article. We have given you only a direction to study the issue. It will take more than one hour to sit for literature, to study the experience of those people who have traveled this path from beginning to end. But the very fact that there are such people speaks of the possibility of implementing your project.