Do-it-yourself plywood sailboat drawings. Plywood boat: selection of tools, materials, drawings, hull assembly, gluing of seams and installation of additional parts, finishing. Homemade folding boat

13.03.2020

Project, drawings, sketches and description of manufacturing technology
boats from one sheet of plywood

I bring to your attention project, sketches and description of the manufacturing technology of a boat from a single sheet of plywood. The design and technology were developed by me based on the experience of building and operating more than 50 similar boats. If you do as it is written, avoiding big smoke breaks, then you can build this boat in two weeks, or even faster. In general, this is a fishing boat for the “poor little Pinocchio”, who, moreover, does not have the experience of a master carpenter, for whom his father Carlo was famous. The cost of basic materials (a sheet of plywood measuring 3x1.5 m; slats, paint and epoxy) was only 625 rubles.

The main materials needed to build a boat:

a coin (no matter what denomination and what country);
waterproof plywood FSF brands- 1 sheet with a size of 1500x3000 mm and a thickness of 4 mm;
rails for sides: 3-meter section 10x40 mm - 4 pieces;
meter section 25x50 mm - 2 pieces;
rails for the bottom: 2.5-meter section 20x40 ... 50 mm - 2 pieces;
90 cm section 10x40 mm - 6 pieces;
boards: semi-bulkhead - emphasis under the can (dimensions 1200x125x15 mm) - 1 piece;
jar (dimensions 1200x250x25 mm) - 1 piece;
transom strapping (dimensions 1000x140x20 mm) - 1 piece;
emphasis under the rower's legs (dimensions 1000x50x25 mm) - 1 piece;
epoxy glue - 5 kg;
dye;
fiberglass - 3 m (with a width of 0.9 m);
copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, nails, screws.

Tools: saw, drill with drills, clamps, planer, emery cloth.

P.S. It is necessary to purchase oarlocks (Fig. 1). I make my own out of stainless steel. So far, there have been no complaints about their quality.

The technology of building a boat from a single sheet of plywood

I want to say right away that we will build a boat with a flat bottom. This design is simpler and more reliable.

1. We take a sheet of plywood and mark the cheekbone line and part of the transom of one starboard side according to the sketch using a rail (line ABV in Fig. 2). You can hammer carnations into the "reference" points. Dimensions are given in millimeters out of habit, it was possible to give them in centimeters. Yes, and the accuracy of the dimensions is not particularly needed here. A little more or less ... The main thing is that the bottom pattern is symmetrical.

2. We cut out a part of the transom and the right cheekbone along the line ABV (see Fig. 2).

3. We lay the formed trimmed part (in Fig. 2 - the starboard side) on the left side, fasten the latter there with clamps or nails so that it does not budge, and with its help, as according to the template, we mark the bottom separately and the transom separately. In this case, the symmetry of the bottom and transom will be fully observed. Note that as a result of the performed sawing operations from a sheet of plywood, we have two pieces left that will be used to make the sides, and a transom.

4. Along the edge of the stern, the bottom and the corresponding edge of the transom, we drill holes with a diameter of 1.6 mm every 150 mm.

5. We fasten the transom to the bottom with wire (using the holes).

6. We install the bottom on a stool and three chairs (Fig. 3). With the help of classical methods and classical literature(“Queen Margot”, “War and Peace”) create the required bottom deflection of 100 mm and the desired slope of the transom. (It’s good to put slats under the bottom, which will then go to the sides, especially if the plywood is 4 mm thick).

7. On one of the remaining pieces of plywood, we mark the contours of the side, taking into account the slope of the transom. To do this, the blank for the side is pressed against the cheekbone of the bottom. For convenience, you can drill holes in the transom at the top and screw the blank to it with wire, but still, to mark the side, you will need an assistant who will hold the bow of the blank of the future side, and draw with a pencil the line of contact of the blank with the bottom remaining on his share and the stem line.

8. We cut out the side, and then, using it as a template, we cut out the other side. We remove the irregularities that have formed with a planer or, better, with a coarser sandpaper wrapped around a wooden block. Boards try to make as much as possible the same.

9. At the edges of the bottom and the corresponding edges of the sides, we drill holes with a pitch of 150 mm, coat the boat with an anti-rotting liquid, for example, Senezh, which will significantly increase the life of the boat, especially if the plywood is birch, and sew the boat with copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm . We form twists from the outside. Please note that when docking with the bottom, the board is placed on the bottom. The transom is also placed on the bottom and placed inside the sides.

10. We upset and tap the wire of the paper clips with a hammer.

11. We insert the jar and the bulkhead, temporarily strengthening them with screws, and glue the planks along the sides. Short strips, in the middle of which there will be holes for oarlocks, are first stretched on a mustache and glued between the inner side rail and the plywood board. The center of the hole for the oarlocks is 300 mm from the can (seat). We glue the knees (structural elements of the ship's hull for connecting separate parts of the hull located at an angle to one another), fixing them temporarily with clamps, nails or screws on the "Flies". "Fly", or "Cracker" is a wooden or plywood washer of arbitrary shape for a temporary nail (screw), so that later it would be easier to remove it.

12. We glue the joints of the bottom and sides from the inside with fiberglass in three layers. In this case, the width of the inner strip is 25 mm, the middle one is 40 mm, and the outer (upper) one is 50 mm. Before pasting these joints on the outside, the paper clips should be bitten off. We work out irregularities with a planer and sandpaper, round the cheekbone from the outside. We drill holes in the knees so that an anchor rope, mooring lines, a cage, etc. can be tied to the ends. We finally glue the jar, and on the bottom we attach a coin “for luck” to the glue. Although I don’t believe in omens, I noticed that the “coin” helps even those who do not believe in it. We glue the stop and planks under the feet and on the bottom to save the paint and, accordingly, the plywood from scuffs and getting wet. We place these planochki inside the case across, outside - along.

13. Cut and glue the board to the transom.

14. In all the holes left from the "temporary" screws and nails, we hammer in the dowels ( wooden nails) lubricated with epoxy. When the epoxy hardens, the excess is cut off, and the location of the dowel is puttied and cleaned. It is better to paint the boat with pentaphthalic paint for exterior surfaces. Just check if the used anti-rot liquid is compatible with this paint. And in general, it is useful to read what is written on the can of paint.

15. The distance from the edge of the can to the hole for the oarlock, as already mentioned, is 30 cm. We drill a hole with a diameter of 17 mm in a thick rail. If there is no drill with a diameter of 17 mm, then you can drill a hole of a smaller diameter, and then expand it with some suitable piece of iron. A stainless steel or brass tube of a suitable diameter (aluminum will quickly wear off, iron will rust) is inserted into the hole obtained, about 70 mm long with a wall thickness of at least 1.5 mm. Before inserting the tube into the hole, it is wrapped with fiberglass soaked in epoxy. From above, the tube is recessed flush with the side so that the fishing line or net does not cling to it. If the tube is larger than necessary, the inner rail will have to be taken thicker. It is desirable that these tubes be the only metal parts in the entire structure (not counting, of course, paper clips). It is possible to raise the subkey higher with the help of a “cushion” - a bar 30 ... 40 mm thick, which will have to be glued to the gunwale and secured with dowels. The tube should then be taken longer. It will be more convenient to row, but those who use the nets say that such a “cushion” interferes.

Oars. There are many options for making oars. They are made from solid boards, slats, pipes. English boatmen recommend assembling the oar spindle from 14 ash slats grown on the open area of the southern slope, and only slats sawn only from the northern part of the trunk are suitable! I got a result that satisfied me by making a spindle and an oar handle from a 2-meter beam with a section of 50x50 mm. True, the same beam turned out to be better, but glued from an inch board. As a blade, I inserted plywood 400x200 mm in size and 6 mm thick into the slot of the spindle. At the blade, the spindle is extended to a diameter of 35 mm. In front of the handle, I left the section square. The oar is easier to handle if the center of gravity of the oar is closer to the oarlock. Sometimes lead is even washed into the handles for this. The paddle is 220 cm long, the blade is fixed in the slot with glue and two homemade ones (made of wire with a diameter of 4 mm) aluminum rivets. Do not make oars shorter than 2 m, as it will be very difficult to row against the wind and current with such oars. You can buy oars, I came across oars with plastic blades in the store, but they cost 750 rubles, and materials for the whole boat - only 625 rubles.

P.S. Don't forget to stick the coin.

What and why can be changed when building a boat

Bottom. If you swim not far, there are no waves on the pond, and every cm of precipitation matters, the bottom can generally be made straight (without curvature). But on such a boat, the stern will begin to pull water along with it and it will be difficult to row. In this case, the bottom of a boat with a width of 120 cm should be made wider (about 1 m) with a transom width of 80 cm.

If you have to wade through the reeds, you can make the bottom narrower, but with a width of less than 70 cm you can’t “shoot” anymore and you will have to carefully throw the spinning. Especially if the water is cold!

For those who wish build your own boat out of one sheet of plywood, shaped like ordinary wooden keel boat, in fig. Figure 4 shows the design of the "keel", which is formed when the bottom is formed from two plywood blanks connected at an angle of 100°...120°.

Nose. If the bow of the boat is made rectangular, like that of an "optimist", its carrying capacity and stability will increase. It will be possible to swim on it and the three of us, if you behave carefully. But rowing against the waves and wind, as well as making your way through the reeds, will be more difficult. You will also need to find a piece of plywood or a plank for the nose, which will also increase the mass of the boat.

Motor. If the transom is reinforced, you can also hang a 5 hp motor on it. with., but it is much safer to use a motor with a power of no more than 2 liters. with. or the Snetok electric motor, for example. But again, that's extra weight.

feed bank. A permanent stern bank, of course, will increase the weight of the boat, but after a long rowing and fishing, every extra gram of the boat seems like a kilogram. You can store something in jars in the form of boxes, but remember that in order to get something out of there, you have to get up from the jar, and this is not always safe.

Keel. A similar fin in the stern of the boat (its dimensions: length 1 m, height 7 cm, thickness 25 mm) will help, especially for an inexperienced rower, to keep the boat on course, but will be an obstacle when the boat moves away from the shore with a shallow. In fact, I advise you to make a keel, and if it interferes, then the planer has already been invented, but I don’t advise you to earn extra money with an ax.

Sail. For our boat, a sail, a rudder and a centerboard from the “optimist” are quite acceptable. The result is a small "Ochakov scow".

However, when taking on the modernization of the boat, remember that any improvements and adaptations entail a whole host of problems and additional materials. Maybe it will be easier to find a project for another boat. On the site site, for example, they are very, and. The advantages of this project are: the minimum cost and labor intensity, the absence of special requirements for the qualification of the master performer and very satisfactory (!) Consumer qualities of the boat.

What and what can be replaced in the construction of a boat

Plywood of the FSF brand will be completely replaced by plywood of the FK brand, only the latter, after gluing, will have to be oiled with hot drying oil and painted over more carefully. There are examples when, with careful care, boats made of such plywood served for many years. If there is no wood for the slats conifers, then wood is quite suitable for such purposes hardwood. After all, you can’t go around Cape Horn, but in a few years, maybe the birch slats will not rot. Remember, they are made from soft aspen and poplar, and they serve for many years. True, from hardwood it is better to take ash (slats) and linden (planks).

If there is no plywood of the right size, one or another can be assembled from separate pieces. In this case, options are possible. For example, if the length of the bottom is only 20 cm shorter than the desired one, and your own weight is less than 90 kg, you can limit yourself to this length. I note that it is not necessary to hang the edges of the plywood to be joined, it is easier and more reliable to glue them together just end-to-end. On the inside of the case, at the joint, you will need to put a bar 10 ... 15 mm thick and 5 ... 7 cm wide, and a strip of fiberglass on the outside. Next, the joint is sewn with wire, and if there is no wire, you can use thread or twine (preferably synthetics). Holes for wire can be drilled or made with a triangular awl, for example. And if you get holes with a diameter of not 1.6 mm, but more, it's okay, the epoxy will stick them anyway.

What can you save on

With a shortage of fiberglass, strips from it can be cut narrower, but still at least 3 cm wide, and two layers will also allow the joint to be reliably sealed. If necessary, any waterproof glue will completely replace the epoxy, but at the same time, at the bottom of the cheekbone, it will be necessary to glue a rail with a section of 30x25 mm and organize the fastening of the bottom with the sides on the screws, placing the latter in increments of 100 ... 150 mm. In this case, the rail is first glued to the board (with a release over the edge by about 5 mm), and then they “remove the bevel”, that is, they stretch it for a snug fit to the bottom.

Reiki can be attached to the sides without glue (only with nails or screws, having previously smeared them with paint). But then you will have to increase the dimensions of the section of the rails by about a third, and the size of the knees - twice, cutting them out of a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm (it is known that the glued part works as a whole, but from knocked together parts, like collective farmers on a collective farm ( seems to be together, but ...).

Good subkeys will also be obtained from a steel tube, which will need to be welded to the bar and screwed with M8 bolts. If there are tubes of too large a diameter, then plastic bottle liners should be inserted into them. With such liners, the oarlocks do not creak, and it seems to me that even rowing becomes easier with them. The diameter of the oarlock axles is not worth doing more than 12 mm, but less than 10 mm is somehow not entirely practical.

Plywood (if the required format is not available), as already mentioned, can be joined without tying, but simply end-to-end, putting one strip of fiberglass on the outside, and a 20x50 mm bar on the inside.

boat building mistakes

If your weight is 90 kg or more, you cannot hold the bottom with the slats provided for by the project. It will bend down under the feet, and bend upwards with water (the sediment has increased). The service life of the boat will decrease quite significantly, so in this case you will have to take plywood on the bottom of a thicker one (at least 6 mm). Or you will need to glue transverse rails (flora) with a section of at least 20x50 mm to the bottom. Such slats are glued with an edge in increments of 30 cm. Although one of my acquaintances (net weight - 105 kg) two years ago, having taken a boat from me, vowed to go on a diet and lose weight up to 80 kg. Lied, of course. However, the boat is still in service, but he rarely fishes.

It is clear that when marking the bottom and sides, the rail cannot be laid - it can be bent in the same way, using only three starting points. Therefore, so that the boat does not turn out to be a curve, follow the proposed cutting technology. Of course, a crooked boat will also float on the water, but...!

It is faster and cheaper to use nails when building a boat, and with the help of screws, the work can be done more accurately, if you do not forget to drill a hole for each screw and lubricate the screw itself with some kind of oil (even vegetable oil). Otherwise, then this screw will not be unscrewed. When attaching the rails to fix them in the desired position, it is advisable to use at least two clamps, for example, from a conventional meat grinder. After all, it is difficult to hold the slats with your hands. To fasten the strips, it is better to take screws with a length of 20 ... 25 mm larger with a semicircular head for a screwdriver with a flat sting. And put “flies” or metal washers under them.

They begin to fasten the strips from any chosen point, acting in the future necessarily in one direction (it seems to me that it is more convenient to start fastening the outer rails from the middle, and the inner ones from the transom). In this case, nails (screws) are installed in a row, since otherwise “bubbles” may result. And so that the boat does not turn out to be crooked, when attaching symmetrical rails to the sides, nails are alternately driven into the rail on one side, then into the rail on the other.

You cannot "save" epoxy by applying too thin a layer of resin to the surfaces to be bonded. In this case, the epoxy will simply soak into the wood and nothing will remain on the adhesive layer. Let me remind you that the approximate consumption of resin should be about 200 g per 3-meter rail or strip of fiberglass of the same length. Epoxy is applied with a brush or spatula, if, after compressing the parts to be glued, the excess resin is squeezed out, then everything is correct. By the way, the “extra” resin, if you hurry, can be used to glue the seams, apply to the body instead of varnish, putty holes from knots. Based on my own experience, I can say that it is usually not possible to use more than 200 g of resin at a time (and this is when everything is ready for assembly). In short, hurry up! Otherwise, the resin will harden or boil. In the summer, in the sun, the resin in a jar hardens or even boils in a few minutes. Especially ED-16. On the standard packaging of epoxy it is written that you need to work with gloves, so do not skimp on them. Well, if there are no gloves, then pre-smear your hands with oil, preferably vegetable, and sprinkle them with powder, for example, talc or flour, so as not to stain the glued parts with greasy hands. Or you can just lather your hands and then let the soap dry. It is also better to wipe your hands from the resin with the help of vegetable oil and rags, and almost any solvents are suitable for this (acetone, 646, solvent). Gloves will also last longer if they are lathered, dried, and washed with soap and water again after work.

Your safety while building the boat and afterwards!

Protect your face and eyes from the resin, and most importantly, from the hardener. As you know, there are different hardeners, but those that I came across included cyanides. I hope everyone has heard about the properties of potassium cyanide.

Plywood, of course, does not sink, but its buoyancy margin is minimal, and it is clear that a boat filled with water will not keep you afloat with a load. So it is useful to have pieces of Styrofoam or plastic bottles with a capacity of at least 10/7 in the boat. It is best to place them under the can on the bow side in a bag that should be securely tied to the boat - lifeboats used to have sealed tanks (made of galvanized sheet) with air under the seats. In the stern it is good to have a foam plate 5 ... 10 cm thick and 40x50 cm in size as a passenger seat, and also for buoyancy. And it is convenient to put something on it that requires a dry place. You can make the jar lower, for example, 100 mm high, which will allow you to sit higher in good weather by placing the same foam plate on the jar (on which, by the way, it is warmer to sit). To prevent the foam from crumbling, sew a bag of old shirt. The bag with this plate must be tied to the bank. And the stern plate is more convenient to tie to the footrest.

The distance from the edge of the can to the foot rest is average and is 70 cm, but it is more reasonable to glue the stop at a distance that is convenient for you.

Remember also, the boat is twice as light as you, and it is very easy to turn it over if you handle it carelessly. In fact, the boat is quite stable, so over time there is a feeling that it is not able to roll over at all. However, this is not at all the case.

Fiberglass, so that glass dust does not fly from it, is impregnated (oiled) at the factory. Therefore, in order to glue it more reliably, the fabric must be degreased, which I do with an electric stove with an open spiral. I heat the fabric until the smoke stops coming out. You can also burn the fabric in the oven of an electric stove, but there will be smoke in the kitchen! There is no need to anneal the special shipbuilding fabric, the composition with which it is impregnated does not interfere with adhesion, but you are unlikely to get it. Just in case, I report the brand of this fabric - T-11-GVS-9.

Homemade boats for fishing can be built by almost every craftsman. You just need to choose the right material and connect it according to the scheme. You can use such a device not only for catching fish, but also for walking along the reservoir. You can also buy a product in a store, but it is not sold everywhere, and the cost is not at all encouraging. During the manufacture of the product, it is necessary to fix all the details reliably and firmly. Not a single joint should let water through. You should also calculate the maximum weight of people who will be transported by a boat for fishing.

Most often, users are interested in how to make a boat yourself from classic wood materials. To do this, you first need to select the appropriate drawing. You will also need plywood sheets 0.5 cm thick.

You can make a boat with your own hands using the following technology:

First you need to draw paper templates according to the selected drawing, apply the contours to the plywood.
You can cut out fragments using an electric jigsaw or saw with fine teeth. In this case, special attention should be paid to the corners with which the parts will be joined at the ends.
Fastening of frames and transoms. To do this, you can use glue or galvanized screws.
Fixing sides, bottoms. Here, too, you will need a special strong waterproof glue. Additionally, the bottom from the inside of the boat is reinforced with a deck of slats. Absolutely all parts must fit each other in size. The chamfers of those parts that will be in contact must be removed so that there is no gap between the surfaces.
Gluing seams, reinforcing corners. In order for the joints not to let moisture through, they must be well sealed. Here you need aerosil, epoxy resin.
Mounting oarlocks and seats.
Grinding the outer surface. This is done as soon as the product is completely dry.
Impregnation of homemade products for fishing with a protective compound, its painting. It is better to use a special paint that is intended for a wooden vessel.

To increase the strength of the product, it is necessary to make the tailgate and frames from several layers of material. If the boat is equipped with a motor, then the board on which it will be installed must be reinforced with hardwood plates, and additionally glued with fiberglass.

To build a home "boat", it is not necessary to use wood or plywood. You can even build a device from plastic bottles. At the same time, the made apparatus will stay on the water no worse and is quite suitable for fishing (in addition, the master will spend less time and effort on it, as well as money).

To work, you will need the following materials and tools:

bottles (a small container will not work here, it is better to take products designed for 2 liters);
glue and adhesive tape (they must be resistant to moisture);
wire;
stationery knife or scissors;
plywood;
wooden or metal crossbars.

The container is pre-cleaned of labels. Next, it needs to be made more rigid. To do this, the bottles are placed in the freezer, tightly twisted, and then placed in heat. The lids must be additionally fixed with water-resistant glue.

From the container you need to form "logs". You can connect the elements with an impromptu coupling, which is cut from the center of an empty bottle. The elements are fixed at the bottom. In this case, the protrusions of the other should enter the recesses of one container. Next, the workpiece is fixed with glue and tape. Now you need to cut off the tops from two bottles and put them on the necks already finished construction. The rest of the logs are made in this way.

From these products, assembled in 8 pieces, floats are made. You can connect the fragments with a strong wire. The floats are fixed to each other wooden blocks. After the transverse parts are ready, you can attach the plywood bottom to them.

This ensures the reliability and water tightness of the joints.

To give a beautiful appearance the product can be sheathed with plywood or metal sheets.

Among all fishing equipment, a boat is the most cherished dream of a fisherman. Moreover, the ship can be quite small. For example, folding models can be taken with you on a fishing trip with the least chance of not fitting them into a car. Most often, such structures are made of duralumin.

Additionally, you will need rubberized fabric, lining and rivets, wood, primer, wood, paint.

Installation of such products involves several stages:

Material selection. You need 4 fragments for the sides and 2 for the bottom. You will also need 3 crossbars: 2 struts to ensure the reliability of the structure, and 1 seat.
Cutting fragments, their fitting and bending.
Making holes for rivets. The distance between them should not exceed 2 cm. All places where rivets were installed must be thickly coated with paint to seal them.
The seat is fastened with galvanized fasteners.
Priming and painting fixtures.

It is better to fish from this type of boat. It is hardly suitable for a romantic walk. In order not to spoil the duralumin, it is better to first make cardboard fragments and fit them.

When equipping the device with outboard motors, you can build a real boat. But it is not always needed.

Most often, fishermen prefer oars, because they are much quieter.

Homemade plywood boat (master class, photo, step by step)

So his hands reached the realization of an old dream, he began to build a boat. For the first time, I chose an easy project, so to speak, for training. I went to the production of similar boats in Cherepovets and spied something there and bought the missing materials, for which special thanks to the owner of the shipyard.

This is what the boat should look like:

Today I cut the sheets of plywood and proceeded to the most important and difficult process, in my opinion, is the cutting and gluing of plywood sheets. Because the length of the boat exceeds the length of standard plywood sheets, then they have to be spliced, there are many ways to do this, but I chose the most technically complex, but also more aesthetic option for gluing "on the mustache".

We mark up.

We process plywood sheets first with a planer, and then with a grinder.

This is what it looks like during processing.

This is how the sheets should fit and stick together.

After fitting the parts, I glued them together and placed them under a press.

That's all for now preparatory work on the boat, after the sheets stick together, I will start marking and cutting out the details.

At first, I worked out the connection "on a mustache" on scraps of plywood and it was scary to look at it, but the experience came when working on a "finishing" version :) I hope I will master everything further.

That's about the boat.

Basic data:

Maximum length ................2.64 m
Width overall .............. 1.28 m
Board height .........................0.38 m
Case weight ........................30 kg
Load capacity .................180 kg
Crew .................................. 2 people
Permissible power. p / motor ... 2.5 hp

Today was a day of fruitful work and great progress :)

He pulled out the sheets from under the press and removed the strips between which they were sandwiched. The joint turned out to be even and very strong (then they tried to break the scraps from the bottom, it bursts not along the joint of the sheets). Thus, blanks of the required length were obtained for the manufacture of the boat.

I start the markup with stuffing the center line, then all sizes will go from it.

Here I drew the bottom of the boat, it seems to have turned out beautifully:

I start cutting. It is advisable to take a jigsaw with high speeds, use files for curly cutting plywood so as not to tear the edges of the sheets.

We are strictly following the markup :)

Here is half of the bottom ready.

And here is the whole bottom :)

We mark one side, then we put two blanks on top of each other and fasten them with clamps, after which we cut both sides at once.

I mark and saw out the transom.

At the junction of plywood sheets, we chamfer with a grinder and proceed to sew the boat with copper wire clips.

We work from stern to bow.

In this case, you can not do without an assistant.

I also try hard to sew everything beautifully :)

Here are the seams.

Here is the boat and ready :)

Sample for yourself :)

And upside down.

Today I really moved to the final stage of the project completion :)
First of all, I stretched all the staples harder. Checked the geometry of the boat. Then with a chisel he planted the staples on internal joints boards. After all this, I cut out temporary spacers and fixed them in the places where the frames were installed.

While doing these things in the new room, I constantly felt the eyes on myself. By the way, here is a view of the straightened boat from the stern.

For a more even formation of seams, I decided to fill the lines with masking tape, it seems to have turned out beautifully.

I decided to glue it in the evening, but for now I drew out the frame templates and started assembling them.

Here are the finished frames, assembled on epoxy glue and self-tapping screws.

Finally, I started gluing the internal seams, I didn’t think that it was such a painstaking work :) For the first time, everything seemed to work out fine. The resin soaked the fiberglass normally, there are no bubbles anywhere.

This is how the seam turns out, smooth and transparent. The photo shows that the structure of the tree is visible through three layers of glass tape, which means everything is normal.

This is what was done last time: the frames were adjusted and the fenders were screwed on.

Today I installed the frames in place and fixed them with glue and self-tapping screws, cut out the reinforcing lining on the transom.

After that, he turned the boat over, removed all the paper clips from the wire and proceeded to round the joints of the seam.

And when everything was ready, I started pasting the outer seams.

The seams turned out to be even and well soaked, even I like it myself.

Seams on the transom.

Today I finished work on the formation of the hull of the boat, next time I will install benches and start preparing for painting.

The sides are fastened not only with glue, but also reinforced with three layers of glass tape on each side, this is already fiberglass. Self-tapping screws from the frames can be turned out altogether, they will no longer be needed there after gluing. Some people actually do just that. Such a boat can be assembled without a single screw in the hull at all.

Today I went to make a boat only in the evening, because. waiting for the glue to set well. I checked the outer seams, I really liked how it was done, it turned out to be strong fiberglass. After that, I decided to make planks for benches. I also cut out and fitted the stem to the bow of the boat.

Here are the slats of the front bench.

Here is the middle bench.

I also cut out slats for the back bench, but it's still too early to install them.

Apparently stretching the pleasure of the process, or maybe out of a desire to do everything qualitatively, I make the boat slowly and little by little :)
Today I bought glue, self-tapping screws and high-quality lumber without knots. All this was intended to install the keel and outer stringers. These necessary elements will give greater strength to the bottom, as well as protect the boat during mooring to the shore, protect the paintwork from scratches.

I cut the slats, sanded and installed them in place with glue and self-tapping screws.

Also today I installed a stem and a bow eyebolt for tying a rope or anchor line.

For today, the work had to be stopped, because. the whole thing should be firmly grasped, for this I used additional weights.

By the way, bench blanks have already been cut out, but they will be installed after painting the boat from the inside.

For a long time I wanted to create a record with a mark of the main points in the manufacture of the boat, but it still did not work out! Dad is getting older every year, but there is still no crib, although we have made more than one pair of boats with him ... And this year there was a need to expand our fleet, because the kids are growing up and boats are needed more stable and lifting, for reliability movement. I myself used to swim out, but with my sons this must be warned! It's time to take out the previously stocked boards, trimmed, planed, prepared nails, and, one weekend, got down to business! (It is better to use spruce boards, without knots, but there is not always what you need)

First of all, Dad sketched a small drawing with dimensions, based on the requirements and previous construction projects

Then they laid out the boards for the bottom, drew a contour on them according to the dimensions, cut out the main one with a jigsaw, left only along the edges, this can be seen in the photographs.

When fitting the boards to one another, we leave gaps in the stern and in the bow, but in the middle we adjust more or less tightly

When all the details are prepared, we begin to assemble the bottom, first, having tightly assembled the boards, we sew them together with nails in the middle of the crossbar, then with the help of a rope and two crowbars we tighten the stern, we sew it with nails, we do the same with the bow

Due to the fact that the crossbars are rounded, and gaps were left between the boards in the bow and stern, during screeding and assembly, the bottom turns out to be a little sphere both across and along. In the future, this gives the stability of the boat on the water. It is not necessary to adjust and tighten the bottom boards to microns, small cracks are quite acceptable, this will facilitate bottom caulking.

When the bottom is assembled, we cut out the edges according to the intended dimensions and markings so that the edges are smooth, otherwise it will not work to bend the side boards clearly

The most interesting thing is ahead, you need to bend the sides at the same time on both sides, if bending in turn can warp and the boat will turn out to be skewed. We attach the side board to the bow on one side, sew it on, then the same on the second side, then one presses it by bending the boards, the second pierces it with nails towards the stern.

The boards were pulled together as well as the bottom - with a rope. As a result, some form was drawn, further it is easier. In the same way, we bend the second row of side boards. We do not beat a lot of nails when stitching, because it will still be necessary to caulk! Next, we saw off the extra ends of the boards, both side and bow with the stern. Then you adjust the front nose board.

After the end of the assembly, you work as a planer, where you need to round, level, go through the entire longboat, cut out the frames beautifully. After restoring beauty, we caulk, add nails in places, fasten the oarlocks, tar the bottom, nail the flashings to the bottom, tar them, then paint. We also make seats for whom we paint them as conveniently as possible. Our oars are transferable, we change boats, but the oars are the same. Oarlocks on all our boats are the same, so that without problems.

In principle, I tried to take into account all the stages and subtleties in the photograph, so that it was clear. Two boats have now been put together, one for the opening, the second quite recently. The boats were made identical, one was tested, the second was at the stage of completion.

If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask! True, questions usually arise during self-production, suddenly someone will take it and make a piece of wood. For those who live near the lake, a piece of wood is indispensable!

Thank you for your attention!

Drawings and photos

A large number of fishermen are convinced that the best fishing equipment can only be made by hand. Fishermen learned how to make not only gear, but also swimming facilities.

The process of building a watercraft is very exciting and allows you to fully realize your creative potential.

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Manufacturing features

When building a boat, it should be borne in mind that the most significant element of the frame part is the base on which the rest of the parts (keel) are attached.

The nasal region is formed by the stem and fixed on one side. In the aft part, the fastening is carried out by a sternpost - elements responsible for ensuring the longitudinal rigidity of the structure.

They can be made on the basis of wooden materials (solid) or glued separately and fixed with nails and screws.

The transverse parts of the hull make it possible to achieve bends and transverse outlines, which adds the necessary rigidity to the craft. In the upper part of the stem and stern, boards are placed that are connected to the frames. This design forms the sides.

The resulting frame is to be sheathed with plywood. A flooring (slan) is laid in the inner part of the boat. Thus, the lower deck is formed.

Boats made of plywood material can be equipped with a motor or oars. The main difference in the design is the stern. For motor boats, a transom (made of multilayer plywood) is installed in the stern.

On request, the boats can be equipped with a cockpit, deck stringers and side stringers. To ensure good buoyancy, the niches must be filled with foam, which will prevent the vessel from capsizing.

Decide on the parameters

Experts presented the most comfortable parameters for a watercraft made on the basis of plywood, the thickness of which is within 5 mm:

The length of the hull (from the bow to the transom) - 4.5 (m);
The width indicator in the widest part of the body (measurements are taken from above) - 1.05 (m);
Boat depth indicator - 0.4 (m).

The most important stage of construction is the construction of a drawing. You can take a ready-made drawing presented on sites on the Internet or make it yourself.

It is very important to carefully study the proposed drawing if the diagram is taken from the Internet. It is recommended to build a scale drawing on graph paper. This will allow you to accurately calculate the elements of the case.

Stages of creating a sketch of a general plan

First of all, you should draw an axial (possibly diametrical) plane - a line dividing the body part along the length into a pair of equal parts. Given the symmetry of the image of the boat, all elements should be adjusted as accurately as possible.
The plane of the diametrical type is divided into proportional segments. Frames will be located in these areas.
Draw a vertical projection swimming facility.
Let's move on to building top view.
We draw plans for frames along the cross lines.
Making sure the locations are consistent and scale of all parts.
Having made a sketch of the frames, we proceed to the construction of its drawing, using a scale of 1 to 1. It is advisable to build drawings on a cardboard base, which will allow you to easily transfer it to plywood.
To ensure the necessary smoothness, you should connect the points with a metal ruler (from the keel to the side area).
Having folded the drawing along the diametrical plane, we check the symmetry. It is very important that the sides repeat their contours with accuracy.

Transferring the image from the template to plywood

After checking the symmetry of all elements, we first transfer the image to a cardboard base. After that, we proceed to transferring the templates to plywood, while accurately observing all the contours. In no case should you make additives for allowances! By transferring the template, the order of the fibers is observed in absolute accuracy.

Materials and tools

When creating a swimming facility, you can not do without the following materials and tools:

screwdriver;
manual milling machine;
grinder (manual type);
clamps;
jigsaw;
waterproof plywood with a thickness of 5 mm (2.5 by 1.25);
waterproof plywood with a thickness of 6 mm (1.5 sheets);
planed boards (at least 25 mm thick);
reek (tree);
nails (brass);
wood screws;
epoxy resin;
varnish (waterproof type);
fiberglass;
timber (50 to 3400);
timber (40 by 20 by 4000).

Manufacturing process

The assembly of the frame part begins on the workbench and ends on the floor (ground).

In order to avoid errors during the assembly process, it is recommended to use the instructions below:

We lay the keel on the workbench.
We attach a sternpost with a transom to one of the sides of the keel. The stem is connected to the second side.
With the help of nails, the keel part (together with the frames) and the stems are connected. We carefully check everything for distortions. If there are any, adjustments must be made. To do this, a string is stretched between the transom and the stem.
Making sure that the axes are completely aligned, we make the final fastening.
Thin fabric soaked in paint(quite thick) and distributed among the available compounds.
After fixing the stems, we proceed to install the frames. To ensure tight fixation, a cut under the keel should be made a little narrower than the frame (a couple of mm).
Landing is checked with a stretched rope. An exact match to the beams must be ensured.
Install frames 90 degree angle is recommended.
We finally fasten the frames.
Having done all the operations, we set the deflection angle. For this purpose, round bars can be used, temporarily fixed to the extreme parts of the keel (on the inside).
We insert between the beam and the keel wooden beam(11 cm).
Fastening is carried out exclusively with bars, which will prevent the occurrence of distortions of the transom.
Let's move on to the frame. It is advisable to transfer the entire sheet sketch to a reduced cardboard size and cut it out.
We draw an image for cutting on plywood(observing sheet dimensions).
Trying out templates.
Cutting with a jigsaw(fine teeth) all details. We make a margin of no more than 2 mm. It is very important to add an additional 70 mm for joining sheets.
Using the threads driven in (between the boards), we combine the axes of the elements. We glue and wait for it to harden.
Using small cloves, shoot down the same parts of the craft.
We carefully customize among themselves with a planer.
We drill holes (2 mm in diameter) stepping back from the edges of the cheekbones 12 mm, observing a step of 50 mm, intended for staples (wire). It is the braces that will become reliable connectors.
The skin is attached starting from the bow of the vessel. It should be fixed with copper wire through the holes that are made along the bottom and side part. The wire is twisted from the outside for a couple of turns.
Next, we make the lining transom and bottom.
Assembled boards to be installed and temporarily connected.
The bottom is assembled according to the same principle, which is the board.
We install the transom and fasten it using screws(3 by 18) and the adhesive base, while maintaining a distance of about 0.5 cm.
If the side elements protrude beyond the transom to the stern, then you can use a planer to align the edges.
Finally twist the paper clips with pliers. We crimp everything in the inner area.
Each slot and joint of the craft must be glued with fiberglass tapes. The width of the first layer should reach 28 mm, subsequent layers - about 75 mm. Positioning each subsequent layer, slightly shift it (on different sides).
After the fiberglass has hardened, the protruding edges of the staples must be removed. We glue the outer area with fiberglass.
To increase the degree of rigidity and increase the service life, it is necessary to reinforce the bottom with planks. To do this, holes for screws are drilled on the planks (the step is 25-28 cm). All blanks laid out in their places are fixed with screws, basted with a felt-tip pen and removed. Only after processing each basting with an adhesive base can the workpieces be screwed into place. After the glue dries, the screws are unscrewed, and the holes formed are clogged with nails that are cut from wood.
Removing accessories, putty with a mixture of epoxy resin with sawdust all the holes in the skin.
The outer part of the boat processed with glue and fiberglass.
Inside the boat is covered hot drying oil.
The ship is painted oil based.

Boat testing

After self-manufacturing boats should go out on it to the reservoir and be sure to test. When checking speed characteristics, it is necessary to create conditions as close to reality as possible. In addition, testing is carried out with different levels of load.

In this case, you can use an independent exit and with two people on board. However, it is desirable that the total weight does not exceed 150 kg. You can measure the speed with a GPS navigator.

It is important to consider that motors with low power (5 hp) can hardly tolerate an increase in load. This situation will be exacerbated if the boat is too short.

Therefore, for such motors, the recommended load does not exceed 90-100 kg, otherwise it will be impossible to switch to planing mode. Sufficient length of the boat and a good motor will allow you to easily go on planing even when fully loaded (150-160 kg).

In the manufacture of a swimming facility, all irregularities are necessary that appear after applying epoxy glue, sand with sandpaper.
Any flaw can be puttied with putty moisture resistant type.
There should not be any special difficulties in the construction of the boat, however, it is extremely important to follow all the recommendations of experts regarding the phased process.
Before cutting the material, you should once again make sure that the measurements are correct. and only after that proceed to cutting out the details.
picking up wooden material for the manufacture of boats, you should give preference to products without the presence of knots and cracks. We select only the highest quality specimens.
With the correct assembly of the structure, you can be sure of the strength and reliability of the boat. Products made on the basis of plywood can very rarely leak.
Plywood boat is light, which does not cause any problems during transportation.

Project, drawings, sketches and description of manufacturing technology boats from one sheet of plywood