A full-fledged extension project from office plastic partitions. Layout of an extension to a private house. Extension to a wooden house. Wooden, brick, frame outbuildings: projects, construction. Serious protection: without a roof - nothing

11.04.2020

Decide housing issue if you have your own private house, it is much easier than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:

a full-fledged living quarters - an additional room;
living quarters with an attic (if the extension is two-story);
utility room - its own pantry, which can largely replace the cellar;
a spacious terrace or veranda where you can spend your holidays with the whole family;
car garage.

The basics of the technology and step-by-step instruction building an extension to wooden house.

Before choosing a specific building material and technology for building an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the room. It may be worthwhile to immediately plan the creation of an extension in which it will be possible to live all year round - in case of an expansion of the family or the arrival of a large number of guests.

Types of extensions

There are several types of extensions to a wooden house. They differ in material, as well as installation features:

frame extensions;
from a cylindrical bar;
from brick;
from cinder block.

Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that may affect the choice of materials and a specific type of extension:

Do right choice a specific extension project means to correctly correlate the purpose of this structure, the features of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. To do this, it is important to understand how each type of such structures is built.

Do-it-yourself frame extension: step by step instructions and video

The frame extension has several advantages:

the design is quite simple, and if everything is calculated correctly, it is quite possible to do it yourself;
it is built much faster than brick, cinder block structures;
the design is quite light in weight and does not require much effort during operation;
in terms of thermal insulation, durability and other consumer qualities, the frame extension to the house is not inferior to others types of structures.

NOTE. If you intend to build a two-story extension, you should consider this option - the structure is lightweight and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risks of subsidence are noticeably reduced.

Preparation for construction

On the preparatory stage it is important to solve the following tasks:

What will be the frame material - wooden beams or metal profiles.
What type of extension will be associated with the main building.
Accurately calculate all dimensions of the structure and develop a detailed drawing.
collect all necessary materials and tools.

First of all, it is important to decide on what type the structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof for the installation of a single roof or as an adjoining building.

It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, easier and faster - the extension will simply adjoin the wall. You can make access from the house directly to it, if you make an appropriate hole and put the door.

The diagram of the adjoining structure to the house is presented below.

Structurally, this solution is a roof placed on supports. The roof is standardly presented from rafters and support boards. For a longer service life, it is desirable to insulate it, lay out a layer of waterproofing. Usually based on the usual strip foundation.

Pairing with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:

wall;
roof.

The connection in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. Preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical advice things to consider before starting work:

At the same time, for the roof of the extension, it is better to choose a material that is elastic enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated board (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.

In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles, metal tiles will not work.

The frame is made of wood or metal. At the same time, all parts should consist of only one type of material - then the extension is more reliable and lasts longer.

NOTE. Even if the house is in good condition, but old enough, the rate of its drawdown will be several times higher than the drawdown of the extension. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of abutment of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - "groove-comb".

As for tools, no special equipment is required: it is important to have a screwdriver, saw, pliers, building level and other woodworking tools.

Installation work must be carried out by at least two people - some stages will require joint efforts.

Foundation laying

The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since in the overwhelming majority of cases, during the construction of a house, the construction of a foundation for an extension is not provided, the foundation must not only be laid correctly, but also securely connected to the main foundation.

NOTE. If you are designing the construction of a newly built house, it is better to take into account the extension right away. You can make it after a while, and lay the foundation along with the foundation of the main building - technically correct option. In this case, the house and the extension will be a single entity, which will ensure their reliability.

The main requirements for the base of the extension are as follows:

reliability - stable maintenance of the weight of the structure without subsidence: especially important for extensions made of heavy materials or two-story structures;
maximum identity with the main foundation in terms of material and depth of laying;
the most complete adhesion to the main foundation.

Most often, strip foundations are chosen for an extension, since they are quite capable of coping with such loads. At the same time, installation features always depend on the type of soil. It is possible to lay monolithic foundations, made of brick or concrete blocks, fill them with drainage materials.

Schematic diagrams of the bases are shown in the figure.

The technology for building a strip foundation for an extension does not differ from the usual one. In short, a trench is dug, reinforced and poured with concrete.

Connecting the foundation to the main

This is the most critical stage. which needs special attention. Two types of connections are traditionally used:

"tape-tape";
"slab-slab".

According to the "tape-tape" type, the stages of work will be as follows:

From the installation side of the extension, a trench is dug corresponding to the depth of laying the main foundation.
Further, a hole half a meter in diameter is drilled at the base of the house - for the corners of the foundation of the extension. For all other parts, the hole corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement at a depth of 2/3.
The reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the house, for this a wood wedge is used.
The foundation of the extension is formed along the driven reinforcement.

Installation according to the "plate-plate" scheme is possible in 2 cases:

the width of the main foundation allows you to carry out the appropriate work (from 450 mm);
the plate protrudes from the base (minimum 300 mm).

Thanks to the extension, it is often possible to solve another important task - to strengthen the old foundation and thereby support the sagging house. Visual video instructions:

Features of laying the foundation in the case of an old house:

Installation of the floor in the annex

Correctly making the floor in the future room is important from the point of view of 2 factors:

thermal insulation;
surface evenness.

It is important to make a quality floor, especially in cases where the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round use.

The strip foundation allows you to mount both a concrete floor and make it out of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is possible to produce only a wooden covering.

Concrete floor

The sequence of technology for laying this floor looks like this:

The concrete surface is quite cold, so this floor needs careful insulation, especially in the northern regions.

Wooden floor

On a columnar or strip foundation, a floor created on the basis of wooden floors. It needs additional treatment to prevent rotting, but wood flooring is much warmer than concrete.

The sequence of installation of a wooden floor looks like this:

If an extension to the house is being built as a permanent structure, then preparatory work is carried out for laying sand, crushed stone or expanded clay, as is the case with a concrete floor.
A ruberoid substrate is placed on the foundation.
Bearing beams are laid on it. If the foundation is columnar, then they are mounted directly on the poles, the length is cut in accordance with the interval. If the foundation is strip, it is important to install intermediate pillars at a certain interval, or use long beams if the extension is small in area.
A wooden covering is mounted on the beams.

All wooden parts must be carefully varnished to prevent decay.

A good example of installing a wooden floor in a cinder block extension is shown in the video.

Frame installation

The next stage is connected with the direct erection of the frame structure. To do this, first of all, you need to install a strapping beam. If it is assumed that the wall thickness is 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.

The end result is a structure that looks like this.

Cutting a groove in the base can be done complete and incomplete. Can be articulated without punching using a steel angle.

The lower strapping is performed in several stages:

The socket is mounted in a frame.
The overlay is nailed into the base.
The support stand is attached with a bracket.

The upper trim is formed for reliable installation of floor beams, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. The interval between vertical supports must be at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be easy to lay insulation (mineral wool, foam plastic, ecowool, etc.). In addition, there is no practical need for a more frequent arrangement of racks.

The general design of the frame is shown in the diagram.

The walls are erected according to the following algorithm:

Mounting on a prefabricated foundation bottom strapping. The binding is screwed with dowels.

Between the strapping and the foundations, a waterproofing layer is necessarily placed - foamed polyethylene, roofing felt or other material.

Vertical bars are nailed to the wall of the house if the two structures are to be rigidly fastened. If you just need to build a nearby building, then corner posts with temporary fastening are first made.
Mounted vertical bars. Their height is selected depending on the number of storeys of the structure, as well as on the method of connection with the main roof of the house.
Next, the top trim is mounted.
The last stage in the installation is the manufacture of holes for windows and doors.

ADVICE. If it is planned to build a large extension with a large number of beams, then it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately by installing all the beams on the lower harness. In this case, there is no need to fasten each element with temporary cuts.

Assembly of the roof and its docking with the main roof

The installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as for a conventional roof, however, the need to connect the roof to the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.

In general finished structure can be schematically represented as follows.

After the construction of the frame, the material of the roof of the house from the side of the extension must be dismantled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the principle of a rigid triangle, while it is important to put an additional beam in front of an acute angle (indicated by arrows in the figure). These elements also serve as an additional measure of protection during snowfalls, so they are also called anti-snow supports.

The sequence of actions for installing the roof can be briefly described as follows:

The rafters from the extension are mounted with the upper trim of the frame.
The upper end of the rafters is connected to the purlin, which is pre-installed on the roof or mounted directly on the roof rafters.

Video editing features

NOTE. It is not necessary to connect the rafters of the extension to the house in a rigid way. This can damage the structure due to uneven shrinkage rates of the main room and extension. The optimal solution to this problem is the use of a sliding structure that provides free movement of the lower support.

Roof finishing and insulation

At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and insulation, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. If the roof of the extension will simply adjoin the wall of the house, and not organically connect with its roof, then a sealant is used for insulation, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.

Construction and wall insulation

One of last stages- construction of walls and their insulation. The extension is a durable structure, and even if it is used only for economic purposes, it is important to create enough good insulation so that temperature changes cannot damage the internal surfaces of the walls and ceiling.

Schematically, the structure of the wall can be represented as follows.

In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be carried out:

finishing work inside the extension:
exterior cladding of the building;
creating a transition to the house;
production of windows and doors in the building;
all necessary communications.

All wooden structures it is important to treat with special solutions that prevent rotting and the harmful effects of temperature extremes.

Timber extension

The principal stages of building an extension (filling the foundation, building walls and installing a roof, followed by insulation and finishing work) do not depend on the choice of a specific construction material. However, depending on it, their own technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.

Foundation construction

In the case of an extension from a bar (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly greater than the weight of the frame counterpart, respectively, the base is required to be more reliable.

A tiled foundation or a pile foundation is often used, less often a tape foundation (for small outbuildings it is quite suitable). In any case, it is necessary that it be settled for at least 1 year.

From the point of view of simplicity and cheapening of work by the most the best option will be the creation of a pile foundation that can be built independently of the main foundation of the house.

Video - the basics of pile foundation installation technology

Walling

Building walls is quite simple in terms of technology. The only drawback of the beam is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it together.

Mounting materials are used as follows:

staples and plates made of metal;

brackets;
steel corners;
screws, screws, nails.

The technology of laying a round beam during the construction of an extension to the house:

Other works

The technology of building walls, insulation and finishing is not fundamentally different from that described earlier.

In the case of building a structure from a bar, two-story structures can be easily made. Of course, in this case, special requirements are placed on the foundation and floors.

Brick outbuilding

Brick extensions to a wooden house are built less often. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.

Most often, in such cases, a monolithic foundation is used. At the same time, a brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of a second floor of the same kind or an attic. Installation of the floor and roof technology does not have fundamental differences from those discussed above.

cinder block extension

And another cheaper one fast option erecting an extension to a wooden or other house - from cinder blocks (foam blocks, gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.

The construction of a cinder block structure is very fast due to large sizes building material. This option is great if the owners want to make a garage for a car or an ordinary canopy, a veranda.

And finally - a brief video review of the main stages of the construction of a frame extension to a wooden house.

Planning a future extension to the house requires a fairly thorough preparation and at least an approximate calculation of the parameters of the foundation, walls, and roof. It will be necessary to resolve the issues of selecting material and, of course, you need to understand the question of how to legalize an extension to the house. Without legal registration of a new housing construction plan, an extension will be considered a self-construction and, according to all laws, is subject to demolition.

How to start planning an extension

Any option for an extension to the house is based on four main documents, on which the future fate of the building will depend:

building permits;
A project of a new building with a detailed specification of the implementation of the most important nodes, for example, an adjoining scheme to the main building or a foundation device;
The layout of the extension on the site plan, with marked distances between individual buildings;
Construction estimate.

Often the construction of an extension to the house is just a small cosmetic extension of an existing veranda, porch area or outdoor terrace. Both elements already appear in the original project of a private house, so its owners believe that nothing needs to be changed in the documents. The external dimensions of the house with an attached premises do not change, the distances between objects according to sanitary and fire safety standards remain the same, so there is no point in messing with bureaucratic procedures for re-registering a capital building.

This logic can still be understood if we are talking about a country shield house, wooden dacha or any other structure erected without a foundation or falling under the definitions of a temporary one. If we are talking about the construction of capital-type structures, the arrangement of an extension always entails certain consequences.

Note! Refusal of registration, except for a fine or forced dismantling of a building, is primarily an investment "in the air" with the risk of losing everything.

A professionally designed and built extension to the house, photo, can increase the capitalization of the object from 30 to 60%. The situation is quite common for modern brick buildings erected on the slope of a hill or mountain. Instead of a veranda on piles, an extension to brick house, which allows you to increase the living area by 40-50%.

Properly executed documents will allow, for example, to increase the amount of collateral in the bank or simply sell the building at its real price. Whereas an illegal extension to the house will only create problems.

Registration of an extension, we understand the details

In order to correctly assess the possible amount of bureaucratic red tape, it is necessary to draw up the following description as detailed as possible, if possible in detail:

Determine the purpose of the future building, its size and location relative to the house;
Make sketches, you can even draw by hand, but with the obligatory observance of the generally accepted rules for paperwork, it is best to use ready-made projects for extensions to the house;
Make a separate document detailing the construction of the foundation or foundation, walls and roof of the extension.

All of the above will be required in order to correctly classify buildings. Any options for an extension to the house, photos are either classified as capital buildings or non-capital buildings.

The paperwork scheme depends on how the employees of the city inventory bureau classify the building.

Papers for non-capital construction

The question of correct classification is not as obvious as it might seem at first glance. Non-capital extensions include:

Stairs and porches at the new entrance to the house;
Sheds, terraces, verandas, balconies;
Auxiliary and temporary extensions, if they do not affect communications or load-bearing structures of the capital structure.

Some experts and some lawyers define a non-capital extension as a structure without a foundation, but it would be wrong to follow such a rule in all situations, since there are a huge number of by-laws and clarifications to the norms of the Urban Planning Code, plus numerous court decisions that contain provisions contradictory friend. Therefore, before legalizing an extension to a private house, it will be useful to get acquainted with at least some of the regulatory documents.

To design such an extension to the house, do the following:

Order a drawing for an extension and make a technically competent description of the design;
Write an application to the Bureau of Technical Inventory to amend the passport of a capital building, that is, a house with an extension;
Wait for the inspection of the erected structure of the extension to the house;
Make changes to the design of the house.

As a rule, there are no problems with registering a non-capital extension to the house, but even if an official refusal is received, registration can be done by a court decision.

Registration of an extension of a capital type

Most of the brick, stone or metal-framed outbuildings are considered capital by law. One of the arguments used by experts in substantiating their decision is the presence of a foundation in any of its forms. Therefore, when planning a full-fledged extension to the house, the owners show miracles of ingenuity, which is worth building a structure with a cantilever or balcony type of attachment to the walls of the main house.

According to the law, a capital extension will require a building permit from the regional department of architecture and capital construction.

Documents to be submitted:

Application with a photocopy of the passport;
Registration certificate for the house and the attached site plan;
The project of the future extension with a short explanatory note.

Upon a positive decision, the owner is issued a written permit for the construction of the structure, subject to the design and registration of the structure in the state register.

After the extension to the house is completed, it will be necessary to go through all the bureaucratic procedures at the BTI, where they may be forced to make an additional examination for the compliance of individual nodes with the norms of SNiP and GOST. After entering into the technical documentation for the house, the changes are registered in the state register of capital construction and real estate.

Of course, you can put up a building without all this bureaucracy, but as practice shows, it’s cheaper to register an attached room.

How to plan an extension to your house

The second headache of any process of building an extension is the inadequacy of the box of the main housing building. Only in 1 out of 100 cases, when drawing up a house project, the future owner is wise enough to provide for the possibility of expanding the main structure of the building due to one or two extensions. The most common problems are the imperfection of the foundation system or claims from neighbors.

What to do with the foundation

The simplest situation is when a full-fledged two-meter strip foundation is laid under the main building. In this case, under the attached premises, it is possible to use a shallow type of strip foundation without any special fears. If the height of the extension is higher than one floor, then the foundation will have to be deepened to the freezing level, the upper armo-belt must be tied up with a slab interfloor overlap main building.

The most reliable and durable extension to the house is made on the same foundation with a brick box of the house. For example, you can use the foundation area occupied by an open veranda. To reduce the pressure on the corner sector of the foundation, the extension box is partially supported on the foundation of the veranda, and most of the weight is transferred to piles driven at a distance of at least 60 cm from the blind area line.

If the house stands on a shallow or pile foundation, then the simplest solution to the problem is to use a slab foundation. The foundation slab for the building is poured over an area 2 times larger than the dimensions of the annex itself. At first glance, it looks like a waste, but in fact this is just a way to reduce the impact on the foundation of the house and make a reserve for the future. In all other cases, experts recommend placing the building on a pile foundation without rigid binding to the supporting structures of the house.

Wall and roof materials

For the arrangement of the extension box, three types of materials are most often used:

Gas silicate blocks or foam concrete on a strip foundation;
Wooden or metal frame structures on a pile foundation;
Hollow ceramic brick on a slab foundation.

In principle, you can build an extension from any material, even from rubble or concrete blocks, but in practice, they try to make the attached room as light as possible so as not to break the foundation, so even brick buildings today is a rarity.

Most often, the box is erected from foam concrete blocks, they are light, relatively easy to lay walls and are cheaper than bricks. Due to the excellent heat and sound insulating characteristics, the building can be made with huge windows or even a whole wall of glass.

The second most popular is the frame system. The use of a profiled pipe and a steel profile allows you to assemble an openwork glass extension on two floors. The weight of such a structure will only be slightly more than a wooden frame, so a particularly powerful foundation for the building will not be required. The only condition for the construction of a metal-frame extension will be the correct placement of the structure relative to the foundation of the house. The best option is an inner corner facade, providing maximum rigidity of the foundation and stability of the walls.

Traditionally, an attached room to the house is preferred to be installed on the corner of the main building. This part of the foundation of a brick or block house has the highest rigidity and stability, which in turn has a beneficial effect on the attached box itself.

If an additional room is built from wood concrete or aerated concrete, while the place for the foundation is in the center of the main building, in this case it is necessary to take measures to increase the stability of the attached box by all available means.

As such, there may be an additional brick wall or a rebuilt common roof.

The exception is frame structures made of timber, as a rule, a box made of boards and timber has sufficient rigidity and relatively low weight, so it can be attached anywhere in the house, without regard to the foundation.

Conclusion

When choosing a plan or project for a small room, you must consider possible problems from the neighbors. Oddly enough, according to statistics, the majority of court decisions on the forced demolition of extensions in the private sector are based on complaints and claims against neighboring houses. Therefore, it is not enough to plan the foundation and start construction, it is also necessary to provide the building with permits in case of a possible conflict.

Arrange a technical room or an additional living room. Then the question arises for the owner of the house. What to do? A common option for expanding the area is an extension to the house with your own hands. It's cheaper than building a whole house. Allows you to avoid credit loans for years that not everyone can afford. All in all, it might not be very expensive. This refers only to the construction itself. A house that is overgrown with properly made outbuildings becomes more comfortable and beautiful.

Organizational moments

Terrace attached to the house

Even at the stage of considering the construction, you already need to be prepared for the fact that when the time comes to legalize a new structure, you will face difficulties. From organizational and technical aspects this is more difficult to consider. If the main building has already been designed and put into operation, then independent construction can lead to its accident rate.

The set up is not cheap. The type and design of the extension will be taken into account. New results for the operation of all housing will be required. But difficult does not mean impossible.

For registration you will need:

Ground investigations at the construction site. Pleasure is not cheap. This is necessary to guarantee the reliability of the new structure, which in turn is important for the integrity of the old house.
Checking existing housing
Obtain building permits from neighbors
extension project, designed by yourself or custom-made by specialists
Approve the project from a licensed construction company, firefighters, SES, electricians, public utilities. Columns 1, 2, 4 by order in a construction company are solved faster, and at a lower price
Obtain a building permit from the architects. Here you can also combine columns 1, 2, 4, 5 by ordering a “project by key” or “project with binding”
Upon completion of construction acceptance of the building by the authorities that issued the permit
Renew all contracts with public utilities for a new area
Re-register a new area in the tax service, cadastre

If everything is done correctly, then the specialists of licensed firms often do not harm and quickly draw up all the documents.

Basic requirements for construction

The project of the future extension should be well planned from the beginning, so as not to lead to additional alterations later. It is necessary to think over all the points in advance. Each structure has its own conditions for construction.

For a living room, all structures must have good insulation. Otherwise, the heating will not make sense. It is also very important to prevent dampness in the room. Reliable waterproofing is a guarantee of normal operation of the premises, will make it reliable, durable. Natural light is also important.

Glazed veranda

For the kitchen and bathroom engineering communications are brought in advance. This is best done before pouring the foundation. Particular attention should be paid to the insulation of the building and good waterproofing of the floor.

The main function of the veranda is to protect the entrance to the main building from bad weather. They rest here in summer. You don't need to warm up. Foundation waterproofing is very important. The structure can be in the form of a conventional flooring, with low walls and a roof raised on pillars. Walled verandas are also built, with a door and one or more windows.

Where to start?

With any construction, they begin with preparatory work. The site is thoroughly cleaned of debris and everything necessary for construction is prepared.

A drainage system is required under the building. To do this, the earth is compacted, and a slope is made at this place for water flow.

Foundation

The base for the construction of the structure is tape and columnar. Each has its own qualities. To select the most suitable, you must first study each.

Strip foundation

Strip foundation

This foundation is done in the following order:

The rope is used to mark and trace the site for construction. It is stretched and fixed. According to this outline, a trench is dug to the depth of the base of the main building and 10-15 cm wider than the wall
The bottom of the trench is covered with a 10-12 cm layer of sand. All this is carefully compacted. Next comes the crushed stone, which also needs to be compacted. Broken bricks are allowed
The next step is to lay a waterproofing film along the trench. It goes 40-50 cm above the ground. It closes the foundation from the inside, and the formwork above the ground. Then the reinforcement is fixed. Its design in shape should be a repetition of the foundation to its full height.
The concrete mortar should consist of cement with gravel. They fill 1/3 of the height of the trench. This layer must be completely dry. Next comes another layer of concrete. It will fill half of the remaining height
Having installed the formwork, form the base. The waterproofing remains in the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed from above. The film must not slide into the concrete. The formwork is completely filled with concrete. The solution must be pierced with a shovel so that there are no air cavities inside. The formwork is also lightly tapped so that the resulting vibration compacts the concrete solution well.
Upon completion of the pour, the concrete is leveled and left to dry completely. Every day it is sprinkled with water. This makes it more durable. When it hardens, the formwork is removed
It is recommended that the foundation be additionally covered with waterproofing compounds or materials in rolls. This is liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and roofing material. Then they start building walls.
The internal space of this foundation is equipped various options. For example, using concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and logs, with the installation of a wooden floor in the future

Column Foundation

Column Foundation

This type of foundation is built of brick or concrete. Possibly both materials. This basis is used for the construction of verandas and living rooms, with further planning for the installation of boardwalk.

The foundation is carried out in the following order:

First, the marking of the selected site for construction is also applied.
Pillars should be placed 1.5 m apart. For them, pits are dug 50x50 cm in size and 50-60 cm deep. The dimensions of the pit at the top expand by approximately 10 cm on each side
Further, the bottom of the pits is reinforced with sand and gravel. Waterproofing is being laid
A layer of cement mortar is poured under the brick supports. It must completely freeze. After that, brickwork is done
For concrete pillars reinforcement and formwork are installed in the pit to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is laid inside the formwork and fixed from above.
The formwork is filled with concrete mortar in layers, each of which is allowed to dry.
The top of the post is leveled and sprinkled every day with water until the concrete is completely dry.
After that, the formwork is removed. With the help of warm bituminous mastic poles are covered with ruberoid
The void around the pillars is covered with earth with gravel. Every 10-15 cm it must be compacted
Roofing material is laid on the pillars in several layers. This will be the waterproofing protection of the wooden bars. They will be mounted on top.

Floor bases

Floors made of wood and concrete are laid on the strip foundation. The tree is also laid for a columnar foundation without lintels.

concrete base

concrete base

For the reliability and warmth of the floor screed on a strip foundation, work is carried out in stages according to a certain technology:

At the beginning, the earth is removed from the foundation. It is loosened and removed. The depth of the pit should be approximately 25-35 cm
The bottom is filled with 10 cm sand. It packs up well. Then crushed stone or expanded clay is laid in 15-20 cm. The second material makes the screed warm
Everything is well leveled and the reinforcing grate is laid. A system of beacons is installed on it at a horizontal level. Some rooms require a sloped surface. For example, in the bathroom or outdoor terrace, water from the floor must flow freely to the drainage system
The next step is pouring cement and leveling. After a day, it is recommended to cover it with plastic wrap. This will make it more uniform, durable
When the structure is ready, you can lay on the concrete base flooring or wooden floor

Wooden beam base

Wooden beam base

To make the floors durable, choose high-quality crossbars.
Wooden bars, 15x10 cm thick in cross section, are placed on the foundation, on a roofing felt substrate.
They are attached to concrete with through connections or corners.
The beams are also fastened to each other with powerful corners. All this will hold securely.

Wall materials

Any materials for the construction of an additional annex are used. The walls are built of brick, frame, foam blocks. The main thing is that all this has a good combination with the main house.

Repeat exterior finish home is not a big deal. Wood, for example, goes well with all materials and looks good without additional processing.

Frame walls

The construction of a frame structure is a good option:

construction is fast, in a matter of months
due to the ease of construction, no capital foundation is required
you can do it yourself
at an inexpensive price

The foundations of the house and self-building are made on the same level. Accession should not be capital, because. the extension will sag after a while. A deformation seam is made. Frame structures do not shrink vertically, which is very attractive.

The frame for the walls is made of timber and attached to pre-assembled coronal rungs. The bars can be attached separately. But it will be easier to assemble all the parts together with special fasteners, and then install them as an assembly.

To attach the frame to the main building, vertical markings are made. Here you need to be precise. After installation, to make the frame stronger, it is immediately upholstered.

The upper beam along the house is attached to the main wall with anchor bolts. Insulate the walls after installing the roof.

brick walls

For brick walls a perfectly flat foundation surface is required. Everything is checked. If there are any irregularities, they must be corrected. Otherwise, this will lead to cracking between the bricks during shrinkage of self-building.

Mostly brick structures attached to the house from the same material. It is tied with a metal frame, which is placed in the prepared holes. They are made in the main wall at 2/3 of the depth. Repeat every 2-3 rows. The reinforcement should protrude from the wall by at least half a meter and end up in the seams of the masonry. It is important to take the rods are not thick. Otherwise, the seams in this place will be very wide. Or you will have to make a recess in the bricks under the reinforcement.

A brick extension is also attached to the tree with a frame. It is placed in through-drilled holes. Transverse stoppers are made on the reinforcement. They will keep them in the wall.

To follow the rows horizontally, you need to pull the cord along the future wall. A plumb line checks vertically.

The wall thickness will depend on the functionality of the attached structure. For a living room, a brick is laid in 1-2 layers. On a terrace or outbuilding, a layer of half a brick will suffice.

Upon completion, the brick walls are surrounded by concrete from above. To do this, set the form in which the reinforcement is placed. All this is concreted. When the mortar hardens, the form is removed and the roofing begins to be installed.

Laying brick walls is not easy, as it might seem. This requires experience. The best option would be to entrust the work to a professional. Or make walls from other material.

Walls made of foam blocks

Foam concrete has its own distinctive qualities, among building materials:

No special skills are required to work. Construction is possible on difficult ground
Due to the fact that the blocks are large and light, it takes less time and effort to assemble, compared to laying bricks or timber
The material is durable, environmentally friendly, non-flammable and meets all fire safety standards. It also has low thermal conductivity and “breathes” well, which creates an optimal indoor climate.
Inexpensive, easy to assemble and easy to drill
An extension of foam blocks practically does not shrink and has a long service life.

Additional protection is required, as material will soon be lost thermal insulation due to its high hygroscopicity
Not good beautiful view. Therefore, external finishing is required.

The construction of foam concrete obliges the implementation of a strict sequence of stages:

It is necessary to start laying from the corner points
From below, the blocks are moistened to increase the hitch. The initial row is covered with several layers of protection against capillary moisture
The quality of the assembly is affected by the horizontality and verticality of the first row. Therefore, strict adherence to all rules is required. Horizontal irregularities are corrected with mortar
An adhesive composition is used between masonry. Connections are obtained no more than 1 mm, which minimizes their space, in other words, "cold bridges"
The composition is prepared, strictly following the rules. It is applied on top and on the sides of the blocks. Each brick is aligned horizontally and vertically
Grinding grater levels the horizontalness of each row. The garbage that is formed must be carefully swept away
The corners and every 5 rows are reinforced with rods that will bind the structure and prevent cracking. For what circular saw make cuts 3 cm wide and 5 cm deep. Then recesses are knocked out with a hammer and a chisel. They need to be cleaned up. Welded rods are laid in the middle of the recesses and filled with adhesive.

For window and door openings, lintels with a width of not more than 1.75 m are installed. They are made using formwork - removable or fixed. For large openings, the strength of foam concrete is not designed. It is better then to choose a cinder block or silicate brick. This is a more secure base. The height of the jumper will depend on the thickness of the future floor.

For a removable form, metal structures of the desired size are first welded. On the sides of the opening, bars are nailed for support, a form is set on them. Shields are attached to the sides. Foam blocks are sawn into narrow blocks. They equip the form from the inside. The result will be a semblance of a trough.

The reinforcement frame is placed so that the side with a large number of rods is at the bottom. All this is fastened with struts. Then the blocks are moistened, filled with a solution of concrete along the perimeter of the walls and compacted. The poured concrete is leveled at the level of the blocks in the formwork and smoothed well.

For non-removable form, useU-shaped blocks. Setting the form itself is not required. Less time to work.

For laying such blocks you need:

Install the block with the cut-out support on the sides of the opening. Next, check the horizontalness of the supports on the hose level. All irregularities are corrected with a grinding grater.
The U-block is installed on the glue with the hole up. After that, a reinforcement structure is placed so that it is below a large number of rods. It is fastened with braces
The block is moistened. Concrete layers are laid on top. They are carefully sealed with a trowel.

It is very important to install a reinforced belt on the building. This will make her resistant to different types deformation, wind loads, will increase the carrying capacity. The reinforced belt is insanely heavy. They do it right on the walls.

When the walls are already erected, they begin to deal with the ceiling. For this, crossbars are used. They are installed on the walls 60-70 cm apart. They are fastened with special corners.

When installing the crossbars on a brick extension, they are embedded in a concrete belt. The sides of the crossbars are wrapped in roofing felt. Then all this is hemmed with boards or thick plywood. Insulation material is laid between the lining and the crossbars.

Roofs look different. Basically choose a single-sided view. It consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. There is nothing complicated in the installation. The main thing is not to make a mistake with the slope angle so that winter precipitation cannot remain on the roof. Otherwise, it will be damaged.

Next, marks are placed in the form of a horizontal straight line on the wall or front side of the roof. A bar is fixed along this line to support the support at the top. The base below will be the crossbars or the edge of the wall. In order to protect the walls from precipitation as much as possible, the rafters are released beyond the edges of the walls by 25-30 cm. They are also strengthened with the help of metal corners.

The problem of tilting the roof is more difficult to solve when it is attached from the side where the slope of the main building is arranged. There is nothing to attach the crossbar to. For this, a little roof is removed from the roof of the housing, and a rafter system. Then combine the total coating.

It is desirable to know initially what material will be on top. For soft roof or shingles plywood or a lattice structure is placed on the rafters. Roofing iron, metal tiles, slate and other large canvases are placed overlapping each other on the rafters.

Definitely need waterproofing. It is covered with plywood or fixed to the rafters. Next comes the top coat.

To unite the roofs, at the junction, the upper row of the self-built roof is placed under the lower row of the slope of the house. If the roof of the upper part of the roof borders on the wall or front of the roof, the joint seam is necessarily covered with waterproofing. When the roof is ready, they set to work to insulate the structure inside.

For a room in which they are supposed to live, good thermal insulation is needed. The ceiling is sheathed and well insulated. After that, they begin to work on the floors.

On the installed crossbars on a columnar foundation, transverse logs are fixed from smaller bars. A draft floor is arranged on them. To do this, the boards are placed in a continuous flooring. This will keep the heat out of the house. After the draft floor is smeared with a thick solution of clay. It should dry well. Then a vapor barrier film is laid on it.

Insulating material is laid between the lags. It could be mineral wool, expanded clay or slag. Then they cover with another layer of vapor barrier, and plywood is laid. Then any floor material can be laid.

Concrete can be insulated in the following ways:

Mineral wool is laid between the lags, which are fixed on a concrete base. All this is covered with boards or plywood.
Through the "warm floor" system. It is installed on a finishing screed
An infrared film is placed on a special reflective substrate, and then covered with a decorative coating
Using dry screed and gypsum fiber boards

When everything is finished with the floors, the walls begin to be insulated. Mineral wool is the most common material. It is produced in mats, which makes the work easy and takes little time.

On the frame walls cotton wool is placed between the bars of the frame and covered with a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the bars with brackets. Further, the walls are covered with a variety of options. For example, natural wooden clapboard, plywood, drywall.

Expanded polystyrene is also used for room insulation. But the quality is worse.

Brick walls are usually insulated from the outside. The inside is covered with plaster or drywall. But, if there is a lot of space, you can also insulate with mineral wool, and close it with plasterboard slabs from above. Already then paste wallpaper or some other material.

If you carefully study all the stages of the construction of an additional structure and follow the developed technologies, everything will work out correctly and efficiently. If you are unsure of your abilities and feel a lack of skill and experience in construction, you can entrust the work to professionals.

Video: Construction of an extension to the house from A to Z

Design

Material costs

Sometimes it happens that after the construction country house it turns out that his quadrature is too small, or there is a need for a separate kitchen, utility block, workshop or shed. In this case, you have to make an extension to the house. To reduce material costs to a minimum, you should immediately think about what to build it from.

How to build an extension to the house with minimal costs, with photos and examples, how to prepare the foundation for it, what material to choose for the walls and roof - later in the article.

general information

In the event that water supply and sewerage are planned in the extension, as in the case of the construction of a kitchen or bathrooms, this issue should be puzzled before pouring the foundation.

If you plan to use the extension not only in summer time, then it is necessary to provide for floor insulation, for example, with the help of expanded clay bedding. It is also useful to think over in the case of living in winter how to heat the room.

As an easy extension option, you can equip a veranda - it provides protection from wind and bad weather. In winter, it will not be possible to live on the veranda, since, as a rule, it is not heated.

The extension must be in harmony with the main structure. An economical, warm and prefabricated version of the building is a frame made of wood, after erection it is easy to finish it under the main building. It has many advantages:

simplicity and speed of construction;
relative cheapness;
environmental cleanliness of the extension;
there is no need to build a capital foundation.

Foundation construction

For a veranda or residential extension frame type a columnar foundation is suitable, since the weight of the structure is small. If there is a need to bring communications, as is the case with a bathroom or kitchen, it is necessary to ensure thermal insulation of the water supply and sewerage sections located on the street. This will cost a pretty penny, but the costs are much less than if it were necessary to equip a strip foundation. The floors in such an extension are made of boards so as not to burden the structure.

The concrete pillars on which the structure will stand are poured 50x50 cm in size at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. The bottom of the pits under the pillars is covered with a layer of sand, then with rubble, and all this is carefully rammed.

Pillars must be reinforced to give strength to the foundation. The formwork is removed about a week after pouring, when the concrete has gained strength. As a waterproofing, bitumen or roofing material is glued to the poles.

Bottom trim and floors

In order for the frame extension to last for a long time, it is necessary to provide waterproofing and impregnate all wooden elements with an antiseptic and fungicidal composition. High-quality waterproofing gives bituminous mastic.

A 150x150 mm timber is used as the lower trim, preferably from larch. Under it, a roofing material is necessarily planted to isolate it from the foundation. The first row is laid strictly horizontally in level, without connecting the timber at the joints.

The second row is laid with overlapping joints on the first. Then, with the help of studs, the first and second rows are connected. You can use 50x150 mm boards instead of timber, and in order to achieve structural integrity, they are connected to self-tapping screws.

The lower harness is attached to the beds, on which the logs are laid. Insulation is placed between the lags, for example, polystyrene, and subfloors are laid. Finishing floors are laid from moisture-resistant plywood.

Walls

The walls are made in two ways - either they assemble the structure on the ground, and then erect it, or gradually build the frame in place. For the first option, several people are needed, since the structure cannot be lifted alone.

The erection process begins with corner posts, it is very important to maintain right angles in all planes. For racks, a bar with a section of at least 100x100 mm is used. The pillars are placed at a distance slightly narrower than the width of the insulation sheet.

Openings for windows and doors are equipped with additional pillars and crossbars. The top of the frame is fastened with an upper strapping of the same design as the lower one. Sheathing is carried out with OSB, siding, plywood, clapboard.

Roof and insulation of the extension

The roof is easiest to equip with an ordinary shed. It should be done as a continuation of the roof of the main building. This is possible if the extension to the house is side. The roof of the extension must go under the main roof.

All elements - rafters, beams, crate must pass with an antiseptic. The roof is overlapped and, depending on its type, is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws or slate nails.

Styrofoam or mineral wool is used as insulation. First, the frame is sheathed with a hydrobarrier, then an insulating material is placed between the racks of the frame, and a vapor barrier is attached between it and the lining. Then they attach OSB or drywall to the racks, and proceed to the fine finish.

Photos of extensions to the house

In order to make the house comfortable, the best solution is to create additional space. First of all, projects for extensions to a wooden house and any other must be properly legally executed.

It is better to do this in advance, since it is easier to make changes to them than to redo an already finished design later.

The purpose of building an extension

Arrangement or porch.
Creation technical room(workshop, garage, boiler room, switchboard, pantry).
Expansion of living space (living room, bathroom, kitchen, dining room, hallway).

It should be borne in mind that the extension has some features compared to other structures.

What extensions are suitable for a wooden house?

Despite the functional difference of the additional premises, there is a prerequisite - ensuring the safety of the main building. For wooden houses the use of extensions from identical material is advisable in order to create harmony and prevent overloading the foundation. If the main building is a log house, logs, timber and even aerated concrete blocks. But wooden extensions remain preferred.

The most rational option is to attach a frame structure. Availability modern materials makes it possible to make new premises as comfortable and functional as possible all year round.

What should be considered when creating an extension?

The following factors must be taken into account in construction:

and its dimensions.
The condition of the walls with the roof and what elements need to be replaced.
The possibility of rigid connection of structures and the creation of a transition between rooms.
transitions between rooms.

Due to the fact that wooden outbuilding shrinks during the first year after construction, its rigid attachment to the walls of the house is not recommended. Between them leave the so-called providing relative slippage of the walls vertically. It is necessary even with a common foundation and separates all parts of the building from the bottom up, up to the roof. Finally, the seam is filled with elastic tapes, polystyrene foam, plastic mass made of bitumen, silicone or acrylic.

When combined different materials embedded elements are used at the junction: fittings, channel, corner. The tightness of the joint is created using a gap of 1-2 cm, which is then filled mounting foam and closes with a flap. Metal should be carefully painted to protect against corrosion.

It is quite possible to create a basement under a new room. In this case, a deep strip foundation is required. But it is impossible to lay a new foundation below the sole of the old one. The sole of the foundation of the extension should be the same as that of the house, or placed higher.

Project work

The projects of extensions to a wooden house have become the most popular due to their economy, simplicity and efficiency. First of all, a project is created. The extension complements the house, creating a single whole, and is not a separate part of it. It is important to provide for the condition of the adjoining walls and, if necessary, replace the rotten parts.

One style should be followed. The dimensions of the additional building should not exceed 2/3 of the house. In this case, it must be taken into account that the general appearance of the facade is not violated. The area of the veranda is usually about 20% of the house.

The extension can be two-story. It is important to ensure its reliable thermal insulation. If the attached room is combined with the rooms of the house doorways, it must be securely insulated. Otherwise, it will affect the microclimate of the whole house. Protection from the cold must be provided on all sides.

When changing a residential building, permission from the city architectural committee is required. All necessary drawings are being prepared. The price of the services of a construction company, which undertakes to create an extension project to a private house, ranges from 25,000 rubles. Suitable option You can choose from the suggested photos.

Typical ready-made projects are difficult to apply, since they need to be tied to the existing structure of the house and the state of the soil. They are taken as a basis, making changes of different levels of complexity, depending on the wishes of customers. As a result, an original solution can be obtained.

Building a new foundation

When projects for extensions to a wooden house are being developed, special attention is paid to the foundation. So that it does not shrink, it is connected to the base of the house. You won't be able to get a monolith, but you can get close to it. First, a trench is dug and the attached parts of the main foundation are released. The waterproofing is cleaned from it, and then recesses are drilled to a depth of 60-80 mm with a crown with a diameter of at least 100 mm. After that, instead of the crown, a drill is inserted and thin holes are drilled in the concrete. Then reinforcement is hammered into them. The frame of the new foundation is attached to it and it is poured with concrete. After hardening, waterproofing is laid on the base, after which it is possible to build an extension from any material, but it is not recommended to create heavy structures.

If the reinforcement of the two foundations is not done, over time they may disperse.

How to make a roof

The roof of the extension is erected separately. It is made single-sided and with a large slope. There is no connection to the main building. In this case, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the roof to the wall of the house. Then its subsidence will not occur in the process of shrinkage and shrinkage of the structure.

The roof is located below the main one or is made with it as one piece. It should be ensured that the shrinkage of the new structure does not lead to subsidence of the roof. If a decision is made to build a common roof, then the entire roof will have to be reconstructed.

Construction of an extension from a bar

Projects of extensions to a wooden house most often involve the manufacture of new structures from the same material, for example, from a bar. The building is usually attached to the facade wall and may have as many floors as the house has. Then the foundation is made the same, and the roof can be common or one-sided pitched. Under the veranda, a lightweight columnar base is used.

The walls are built using the same technology as for the main house. The beam is connected to each other with dowels. Fastening to the main wall is made with plates with screws or brackets.

An extension made of timber is usually intended for residential premises.

For her, the roof can be made common by connecting the floors with metal corners. The design of the drainage system is made integral.

Add-on costs are as follows:

type of construction and decoration;
number of floors;
the complexity of the foundation;
availability of communications;
type of beam.

The general list also includes the price of the project, transportation and the complexity of construction.

Frame extension

The frame base is the simplest and most common solution for building an extension to a wooden house. Despite the fact that this technology has appeared recently, it has received universal recognition due to its economy and speed of construction.

The frame is made of wood or metal. The cost of a structure depends primarily on its purpose. The construction of a dwelling requires the highest costs, where insulation is required with mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and other heat-shielding materials.

Metal structures are made from profiles of various shapes and sizes by welding. Cheaper wooden frame also differs in durability and durability.

The foundation is made small and can be shallow or columnar. It is displayed on a par with the main one at the top level.

The wooden frame is treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting compound. Then it is assembled. From the side of the facade, the walls are sheathed with sheets of plywood or OSB, with siding or plastic trim, and from the inside - clapboard. If it is pre-coated with several layers of varnish, the service life of the material will be significantly extended. Insulation is placed between the outer and inner lining.

Attaching the porch to the frame structure is not difficult. A small foundation is made under it, connected with the main one.

Conclusion

An extension to the house allows minimal cost increase living space and create comfortable living conditions. This can be done with your own hands, if you correctly develop your own or make changes to finished projects with reference to specific conditions. At the same time, mistakes in construction should not be made.