Installation 

Lathing of bars under drywall. Wooden frame for drywall: preparation and installation. We mount drywall on wooden slats: the pros of the solution

If you are faced with the task of leveling the walls with drywall and you want to solve it by installing drywall, then the option of using a wooden frame may be the most optimal.
The presence of a wooden frame will allow you to place a sound and heat-insulating layer in the inter-wall space, which will certainly increase the comfort of the room.
True, it is necessary to take into account some important factors related to the specifics of this material.
Of course, from the point of view of ease of operation (a beginner can handle the installation of drywall on a wooden frame), the cheapness of the material, its availability, the wooden frame surpasses most alternative options.
However, it can only be used in rooms with medium or even low humidity. The wood is subject to rapid decay, the risk of damage by insects, this material is a fire hazard: therefore, if you want your structure to last for a long time,
it is necessary to subject this material to special processing, in the form of impregnation.

Installation of a partition on a wooden frame

In addition, a wooden frame can only be used for simple rectangular structures.
The main difficulty in mounting such a frame can arise if you are dealing with an uneven wall. In this case, adjusting the structure in one plane, you will either have to put wedges under the sagging bars, or cut off part of the bar thickness in places where the wall plane protrudes.

Finished wooden cladding frame

But first things first.

First of all, we make a wall sag. To do this, using a system of plumb lines, we determine the optimal location of the plane in which the drywall sheets will be located.
It is necessary to ensure that this plane is completely vertical. Next, we mount two vertical bars along the edges of the wall so that the outer side
the bar was strictly in our intended plane. To do this job, you will need an assistant. The bars are attached to the wall with a plastic dowel. To do this, a hole is drilled in the wall, the diameter of which corresponds to
dowel diameter and length. The dowel is carefully hammered into the hole. With this work, there is a certain subtlety: it is practically impossible to drill a hole for a screw in a beam in such a way that it exactly matches the dowel in the wall.


Therefore, they act according to the opposite scenario: they apply the beam to the wall and first drill a hole in the beam for the screw, when the drill forms a through hole in the beam, it marks exactly the place on the wall where
you can already safely drill a hole for the dowel. When all the holes for this bar are drilled, the dowels are driven in, the bar is again applied to the wall and is already firmly screwed with screws.
If you are mounting a massive beam, then you can immediately drill through holes through the beam with a drill, without a drill. True, while doing this you should use screws with large hats.
The distance between the screws should not exceed 50 cm. When two vertical bars are fixed, the rest of the structure is mounted between them.

Laying soundproofing material into the crate space

In this case, simple rules should be followed: the crate should be evenly distributed along the wall,
excluding the presence of large voids. In places where an increased load on the surface of the walls is expected (the presence of shelves, hangers, mirrors, etc.), the crate must be strengthened.
As a rule, for each sheet of drywall, at least two vertical bars are required. Vertical bars are mounted in increments of about 60 cm. Those bars to which two sheets of drywall will be attached should be wider than 80 mm.
Places of horizontal drywall joints are reinforced with additional horizontal bars. The same must be done with the crate of any openings or holes - they are sheathed around the perimeter.
The main task - namely, ensuring the location of all the outer sides of the crate in the same plane can be solved in two ways.
First, a cord is stretched between two vertical bars and the remaining structural elements are mounted in such a way that the outer side slightly touches the cord.
The second way is to set additional horizontal bars at the top and bottom, using the rule to ensure their location in the same plane as the vertical bars.
Now apply the rest of the crate.

Finished wooden frame with mineral wool insulation

The next step is to install the insulating layer. Materials that are used in this case: polystyrene foam, mineral wool, foam rubber or combinations of these materials.
Hard-to-reach places are treated with polyurethane foam.

You can learn about the technology of installing drywall on a metal frame.

It is necessary to ensure the most dense filling of the intra-wall space with insulating material.
Naturally, this material should not protrude beyond the plane of the crate, as this will complicate the subsequent installation of drywall.

Finished wall cladding with ceiling frame

Finally, you can proceed to the final stage of work - the installation of drywall sheets. Installation begins with whole sheets. Screws are screwed at a distance of 15-20 cm from the edge of the sheet, in increments of 30-40 cm.
When screwing screws, you should monitor the degree of effort applied, avoiding thread breakage - turning the screw.

Fastening drywall to timber is one of two ways to finish a room on a frame, although less common. is associated with many nuances that are absent when using. Still, the use of wood is possible and does not even lose relevance, especially when. Is it possible to fix drywall sheets on wooden beam, and what should be known and taken into account when working with such material?
The process of attaching drywall to a wooden beam

It is possible to assemble a frame from a bar for drywall in any residential and non-residential premises.

  • living rooms with wooden walls;
  • utility rooms of a dwelling made of wood;
  • at dachas;
  • outbuildings (sheds, garages, etc.);
  • in residential buildings and apartments;
  • on balconies and in apartment buildings.
    Ready-made wooden frame for the installation of drywall in the loggia

    However, when used in unheated utility rooms, good waterproofing is required, and the timber itself must be dried and treated with at least a paint and varnish coating.

    It is best to use modern protective impregnations for wood, or drying oil, but the latter option is practically not produced today.

    Why use a frame made of timber, if a metal profile can completely replace it, and is it possible to do this?

    Advantages and disadvantages of wooden frames

    What are the advantages of a wooden frame over the already classic metal profile counterparts:

    But, the ideal material does not exist, the beam also has its drawbacks. This is a shorter service life in comparison with metal counterparts, flammability, the possibility of damage by insects and rodents.

    Mounted wooden frame for drywall sheets
    However, the main disadvantages of wooden crates are low resistance to moisture and the inability to assemble a non-standard curvilinear frame.
    However, GKL can be mounted on a bar, but following the technology and carefully choosing the material.

    The choice of timber for the crate

    If it is decided to collect, then the choice of material must be approached very carefully.
    List following:


    After purchasing the material, all rails must be inspected again and treated with protective impregnations or at least painted. This will protect the wood from moisture penetration.
    It is important to remember that you need to store the timber and slats in a horizontal position, otherwise, after time has passed, vertical storage will result in curved racks.

    What do you need to work

    The list of necessary tools for assembling a wooden frame is different from the equipment for working with metal profiles.
    Required tools:

    It is necessary to purchase additional materials:,.
    Mounting angles are selected according to the size of the beam, if it has sides of 50 × 50, then the hardware is preferably the same. This will ensure a secure fit.

    Different kinds mounting brackets

    How to assemble a frame and fix drywall

    Assembly work begins with the marking and fastening of the timber, which will act as guide profiles. collected according to the following algorithm:

    • If the room has a wooden floor, then on the ceiling you can simply assemble the crate by attaching the slats across the supporting beams;
    • Lines are drawn on the floor and ceiling where the guides will be laid, the distance from the wall is chosen to be optimal for leveling the surface and laying thermal insulation when (if it is planned);
    • A guide beam is laid along the marks and holes for fasteners are drilled through it. At this stage, you will have to change the drills, having initially drilled holes in the wood, you will need to change them for concrete floors and floors;
      Laying rails on the floor
    • on the right and left along the walls they are installed on a rack with an emphasis on the guides, they are also attached to the walls with dowels-nails. Additionally strengthened with mounting corners at the top and bottom;
    • At a considerable distance from bearing wall along the lines where the racks will be installed, direct suspensions are attached. Fittings are also fixed with dowels, nails, or fasteners suitable for the material of the walls;
      Scheme of fastening a wooden frame to a log house
    • Racks are mounted on the rails, they are connected to the corners of the bearing beams and connected to the suspensions. Hardware fasteners for wooden racks it is better to perform a press with washers, their wide caps will securely fix all the elements. The number of racks is calculated by 3-4 pieces per 1 sheet of drywall;
      The scheme of fastening the racks to the beam
    • In a checkerboard pattern, crossbars must be installed in the frame between the uprights. Fastenings are provided with corners. The location is changed alternately at the top and bottom, alternating after 1-2 sheets;
    • When laying the insulation in a wooden frame, it must be covered with a steam barrier. The wiring is enclosed in a corrugated plastic pipe and mounted with brackets on racks.
      Scheme for installing insulation inside a wooden frame

    A similar technology is also used to assemble a frame from a beam to the ceiling. At the same time, a continuous crate is made without placing the crossbar in a checkerboard pattern. The video tells about the installation of a wooden frame under drywall.

A wooden ceiling can be perfectly sheathed with drywall. This finish is not only very beautiful. The technology by which drywall is fastened to a wooden ceiling or to a ceiling on metal profiles allows you to create multi-level ceilings that will be decorated with various borders or other relief elements.

In addition, such a ceiling is easily putty, you can embed lighting in it, and glue stylish stucco molding on its surface. It is also important that such a ceiling will breathe perfectly, and the natural microclimate will not be disturbed. Drywall is a modern environmentally friendly material that allows you to create miracles with the interior of the house.

Methods for attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling

Installation of drywall is most relevant when there is a need for facing a very uneven ceiling, especially in those rooms in which the height is three or more meters.

To date, there are several ways to attach drywall to a wooden ceiling.

Namely:

  1. On adhesive materials (special adhesives for drywall);
  2. On wooden slats-profiles;
  3. On metal.

Drywall in very rare cases is attached to the adhesive material, directly to the ceiling itself. This is only possible if the ceiling is perfectly flat. In addition, this method is not practical, since it is likely that the GKL (gypsum boards) will sag or fall off altogether.

Therefore, we will not pay special attention to this method in this article.

Most often, options are used using a specially prepared frame. And then we will consider in detail how to hem drywall to the ceiling and the technology for manufacturing these frames.

Wooden slat frame

Such a frame allows you to hide all sorts of flaws in the ceiling, while not sacrificing much of the height of the room. Plasterboard on wooden slats is more preferable if you need to mount a simple single-level ceiling. This method is cheaper than using a metal frame.

However, only high-quality bars and slats, perfectly dried in the chamber, are suitable for the frame, which subsequently will not be deformed and will be able to withstand a decent load for many years.

  • Before proceeding with the installation work, you need to visually determine the lowest point of the ceiling. It is from her that we mark the design position of the frame: we retreat 5 cm, and with the help of a level we draw a flat horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. If you do this work correctly, then your end point will coincide with the start.
  • Further along this horizontal along the entire perimeter, with the help of self-tapping screws, we fix the rail.

Please note: how correctly you calculate and design the frame will depend on the success of all subsequent work!

  • Next, we fix the base bars to the ceiling surface with such a step that will ensure the reliability of fastening the hemmed system. The recommended distance between the base bars, located in parallel, should not be more than 0.8 m.
  • In a perpendicular direction, we attach load-bearing strips to them, which will be the basis on which drywall can later be hemmed. In the event that you have a small ceiling area, a single-base frame will suffice, in which the shot wooden bars to the ceiling at the same time will serve as carriers for fixing the plasterboard. Of course, the step of fastening the bars in such a frame will decrease and will be about 0.5 m.

Installation of a wooden frame and drywall

  • We fasten the bars to the ceiling with self-tapping screws on dowels with a fastening step of 0.8 m. In the case of a two-layer sheathing, the step is reduced, because double the weight of the binder. The attachment points of the bars located in the neighborhood should not be on the same straight line. They need to be alternated in a checkerboard pattern.
    Installation of drywall on a wooden ceiling is carried out with a step of attaching the sheet to the frame of 0.15 m in the case of a single-layer filing. The fastening step for the first layer can be made 0.5 m when filing in two layers. When fixing the second hemmed layer, the pitch of the screws will be 0.15 m.

Note!
The length of the screws is 25 - 35 mm. This screw size is perfect for 12.5mm drywall thickness.
If the thickness of the sheets is different, it is necessary to select fasteners based on the depth of entry into the material.

Fastening beams to the ceiling

The base bars to the wooden ceiling can be carried out on straight metal hangers (brackets) or adjustable metal hangers with a wire hanger. Through the use of direct suspensions, it is possible to increase the distance between the plasterboard and the ceiling surface.

We fasten the brackets to the beam on both sides with self-tapping screws. We shoot the brackets themselves to the supporting ceiling and bend them along the width of the bar at a right angle. If you need to increase the distance between the ceiling and the plasterboard, there is a D111 system ( suspended ceiling on a wooden frame).

Drywall on a wooden ceiling on a wooden frame allows the use of wire hangers. The frame elements on the hangers are held by special clamps, which allow for quick installation and the necessary height adjustment.

Metal carcass

How to fix drywall to using a metal frame (see also)? It's actually not that hard if you have detailed instructions. The metal profile is a more reliable and durable material for creating a frame under the gypsum board than wood.

Before installing the frame, you need to decide to what height the plasterboard ceiling will be lowered. Between the plasterboard and the ceiling, you can install not only lamps, but also various communications (ventilation, water supply and electrical wiring).

You will need 2 people to install the frame and support the sheets. One sheet of drywall weighs about 15 kg.

What is the frame made of

The metal frame consists of guide profiles. They hold the main frame of the entire structure and rack profiles are fixed to them, on which drywall is mounted. Transverse section profiles has a U-shape. And rack profiles are similar to the letter “C”.

The length of the profiles is always three meters. If it is necessary to increase the length of the profiles, use the butt joints, which are inserted inside and fastened with self-tapping screws. With the help of suspensions, it is possible to correct and level the plane of even the most crooked ceiling and give the frame structure relative rigidity.

In any hardware store you can find very convenient direct hangers, which you will use in your work. Other types of suspensions are quite difficult to adjust, and they are also quite unreliable due to the manufacturing defects.

Rack profiles can be perpendicularly fastened using cruciform joints, which are also called crabs. If you are going to install the ceiling in small room, then this will not take you much effort and time, but it is still better to find yourself an assistant.

Frame installation

To install the frame and GCR, you will need the following tools:

  • gun for driving dowels;
  • knife for cutting drywall sheets;
  • felt-tip pen;
  • level (2-3 meters);
  • drill;
  • a hammer;
  • screwdriver;
  • self-tapping screws for drywall, metal and dowels;
  • metal profiles;
  • drywall panels.

First you need to determine where in your room is the lowest corner, and then measure the distance from it that you need to lower the frame. After that, draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter with a level and a pencil and be guided clearly along it when fixing the guide profiles.

These profiles, depending on the type of surface, are fixed either with dowels or self-tapping screws in increments of 20-30 cm - the main thing is that it is firmly and securely attached to the wall.

After that, we proceed to the installation of rack profiles. In the event that the width of your room is approximately 2.5 meters, then a metal frame with sufficient rigidity will be quite enough. The assembly of such a frame is very simple.

You just need to attach the rack profiles to the wall and fasten them. It is necessary to fix them at a distance of 0.4 meters, using the drawn lines located on the side walls.

Next, cut the rack profiles along the length of the room with metal scissors and insert them into the guides, and then fasten the resulting structure with self-tapping screws. To give it rigidity, you need to use special suspensions.

They need to be fixed to the ceiling with dowels-nails in increments of 60-80 centimeters, and then further improve strength with self-tapping screws. If you do not use suspensions, then the frame will not be securely fixed in the end, and after puttying and painting all joints will crack.

In the event that you will install a chandelier or ceiling lamp, then it is necessary to mount mortgages, since plasterboard sheets will not be able to support the weight of your lamp. Attach several rack profiles to the frame for the future location of the lighting fixture.

After you have mounted the frame, you can start installing the GKL. For this you will need: a clerical knife and a felt-tip pen. We make markings on a sheet of drywall according to the size of the room and cut it off.

Then we fasten the plasterboard to the ceiling using self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm. It is easier to screw them in with a special screwdriver.

Slightly sink the heads of the fixing screws into the drywall panel. The next step is gluing the sickle mesh to the joints (to avoid cracks), then primer and putty.

Working with GCR, a variety of materials are used. More often, builders prefer frames made of metal profiles. But there are also floors made of wood.

Drywall finish wooden house

Some prefer to use wooden floors due to the environmental friendliness of the material despite the shortcomings. These are: biological corrosion, susceptibility to climatic influences and combustibility. Special processing will increase resistance to the listed influences. When making a wooden frame for drywall, you should know important points that provide reliability.


Installed frame for plasterboard sheathing

Do-it-yourself bars are used to build a partition coniferous trees with different section sizes, the choice of which depends on the method of sheathing and the height of the partition being erected.

The main requirements, under which the design will last longer:

  • The humidity level in the room is less than or equal to 18%;
  • For partitions, the height of which does not exceed 3 meters, the riser is a section of 6x5 cm, the crate is 6x4 cm;
  • For partitions over 3 m - crate and riser with the same section, which is 6x5 cm.
  • The choice of drywall depends on the height of the partition. The ratio of the height and thickness of the sheet is directly proportional, the higher the structure, the thicker the drywall;
  • Regardless of the chosen height, section and thickness, the step is 60 cm;
  • Processing that reduces the ignition index of the material is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the first fire safety group;
  • Fastenings are carried out using nails, screws, spikes. Using the latest type of fastener, the connection becomes stronger and will last longer;
  • Used for soundproofing mineral wool not less than 5 cm and not more than 6 cm thick;
  • The thickness of the new partition with the highest value of 132 mm and the lowest value of 85 mm;
  • The calculation of the insulation index is based on the selected thickness of the partition. It varies between 41 - 51.

Do-it-yourself drywall finishing

Before starting the installation, the wood lies for a couple of days in the conditions in which the frame will be erected. During this time, she will acclimatize.

Chemical treatment is no less important stage than fire fighting. It is aimed at a productive struggle with a variety of factors of biological origin. Let's consider in detail:

  • Mold and fungus render the lumber used unusable, which is further fraught with destruction;
  • Natural decay - necrobiosis, decay. Antiseptic treatment prevents these natural processes;
  • Insects. Many species of these representatives of the fauna make the material unusable;
  • Rodents are no less dangerous. A special composition is able to scare them away.

antiseptic

Various antiseptics are chemical compositions. Due to efficiency, preference is given to sodium fluoride. It is a light gray powder that dissolves in hot water. The structure of the bars allows sodium to penetrate deeper. The indisputable priority is the poor washability of the solution, it does not decompose, has no unpleasant odor, is non-toxic and does not have a corrosive effect on the metal.

Sodium silicofluoride is also used, to which soda ash is added. This combination turns the first substance into a pure composition of sodium fluoride.

Antiseptics with an oily structure are prohibited for use in residential premises. This is:

  • Anthracene oils;
  • Shale;
  • Carboniferous;
  • Creosote.

They are toxic and can cause considerable harm to people.


Wood damaged by insects

Partition frame assembly

Installation begins with tracing - markup. It is applied to the floors used for the construction - walls, floor, ceiling. Initially, the gap is measured on which the partition will be placed. From the intended line, the width of the GKL used is additionally measured.

For these purposes, it is advisable to use the ceiling-wall line. Having outlined the required point on the ceiling, it is transferred down, it is easy to do it yourself using a plumb line. At the selected point, a nail is hammered, to which the plumb line clings, at the opposite point, where the plumb line points, a mark is made. Connecting the dots forms the first line. Then a perpendicular is drawn along the wall.

The resulting point, after drawing the perpendicular, is transferred to the ceiling using the same plumb line or bubble level. Thus, the third line is obtained. The fourth is created by connecting two open points. As a result, a rectangle comes out, which acts as the basis for the partition.


tracing

Frame and features of its installation

Frame - a structure consisting of vertically and horizontally arranged bars and a frame. Its installation begins with the construction of the frame. The bars are fixed along the lines outlined earlier. If the walls in the room are made of wood, then it is better to choose spikes or self-tapping screws as fasteners. Otherwise, it's screws and dowels. The frame is fastened with brackets or hangers.

Installation involves the use of integral bars. Especially when it comes to doorway. Wherever it is located (in the middle or near the wall), solid bars must be on its sides. Holes are made with an impact drill used for concrete surfaces.

Shaping the future door

After the installation of the frame is completed, proceed to the construction of the opening for the door. In order for the work to be done with your own hands, follow the sequence of actions:

  • Risers are mounted on each side of the opening, taking into account the size of the installed door. The opening is about 5 cm wider;
  • The risers are reinforced with bars to give additional rigidity;
  • The horizontal partition is mounted a couple of centimeters above the box by connecting to a rail mounted on the ceiling. To do this, take two beams and set them vertically. They serve as a docking point for the GKL and give greater rigidity.

Finished frame

Final stage of work

Installation assumes the presence of a step between the racks of 60 cm, at least. If the size of the drywall is less than the height of the ceilings, horizontal jumpers are installed, which will serve as a place for attaching additional sheets.

Determining the location of the vertical jumper (above the door frame) is easy. It is enough to attach the installed GKL and put a mark. The edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the jumper.

For people who do the installation with their own hands, the masters give advice: it is better to connect the bars with metal plates and corners that are used during assembly truss systems. They are reliable and withstand heavy loads.

Observe the horizontal and vertical jumpers and racks. To determine them, use the level. When installing the racks with your own hands, they are placed so that the maximum number of whole sheets of drywall is attached to the wall. This saves material and time.

Collect such wooden structure easily with your own hands, without the help of a second person. The technology of cladding the GKL of a wooden frame is similar to that in the case of working with a metal structure. Doubters can watch the video and see the truth of these words.

For the construction of wooden partitions, high quality lumber is used.

Insulation needed

If the partition performs not only a decorative function, the craftsmen advise to insulate it. Installation of insulation is carried out after sheathing with sheets of gypsum plasterboard on one side of the wooden structure. Foam materials or mineral wool are most often used.

Doing this step with your own hands is not difficult, because the distance between the material and the racks is almost the same. The material is laid and fixed. Rigid insulating materials are fixed to the inside of the lined partition. If cavities are found during installation, they must be filled with mineral wool. This combination will give the partitions an additional soundproofing effect.

In contact with

Plasterboard lining

Wall cladding with drywall is a practical and common way inside apartments and houses. GKL allows you to align walls and ceilings. A common method is when sheets are mounted on a frame made of wooden slats or metal profiles. If you need to save money or time, the question arises: is it possible to attach drywall directly to the wall? Yes, there are cases when the crate can be omitted. Alignment of walls with drywall without a frame is performed on practically flat ground different types. The photo below shows a room with plasterboard walls and ceilings.

Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile is best option on flat surfaces. An important role is played by the degree of deviation from the plane. The frameless method of wall cladding is applicable if the differences do not exceed 5 cm. When they are larger, a crate is often installed.

Drywall is fixed on uneven planes using beacons. Thanks to this, the installation of sheets occurs immediately on the level. Without beacons, you can mount it, having a lot of experience, or in small areas.

You can control the degree of curvature of the base using building level and a long rule.

Existing methods of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow you to mount it on different types surfaces. It is possible to fasten sheets:

  • to a brick wall;
  • on partitions made of porous concrete, monolith, panels, limestone, shell rock, cinder block and plastered;
  • on wooden surfaces.

Installation of plasterboard on foam concrete

Gluing sheets on a foam concrete base is shown in the photo above.

Finishing walls with drywall without a frame and a profile is beneficial for the following reasons:

  • this method of finishing reduces the cost of material for the crate;
  • money is also saved on its installation (if it was planned to involve a specialist);
  • the volume of the room practically does not decrease;
  • the terms of facing works are reduced, and the process itself is simplified.

The following requirements are imposed on surfaces that are planned to be sewn up with plasterboard sheets:

  • the base must be strong, smooth, without significant defects and fungus;
  • it is required that the wall surface be protected from moisture.

If the sticking method is used, then it is recommended to remove old paint, pollutants (dust, oil stains).

A big plus of finishing the walls with drywall without a frame with your own hands is that the process is faster and easier than if you need to pre-create the crate.

Preparatory activities

Before you fix this material to the wall without profiles, you should decide what thickness to choose drywall, prepare the required tools. Everything you need for different installation methods is presented in the table below.

Some of the tools and materials are used only for certain methods of installing GKL. Gypsum glue

The photo above shows a bag of gypsum glue used for drywall to glue it on.

In work, you can not do without a ladder, or other device for working at height.

Installation of drywall on walls without a frame requires compliance with a number of conditions:

  • the temperature during work should exceed +10 degrees, therefore, at its lower values, it is necessary to take care of the organization of heating;
  • it is necessary that the walls in the repaired room be dry;
  • in the presence of high humidity moisture-resistant types of facing material are used in the rooms;
  • before installation, it is recommended that the sheets lie in the room for 3 days;
  • the base for the installation of drywall must be integral, not fall apart, otherwise it will need to be pre-strengthened.

The quality of the result directly depends on how well the preparation was carried out. Thanks to the fact that everything necessary tools and materials will be pre-assembled, there will be no need to be distracted during work. Maintaining the required microclimate is a prerequisite during the finishing.

Methods for fixing GKL without installing a frame

In practice, several methods are used on how to level walls with drywall without a frame. They differ in the materials used for this and the technology of work. Using the frameless method allows you to sheathe the walls or ceilings of rooms and offices, directly fixing the sheets on their surface.

In practice, 2 options are used on how to fix drywall without mounting the crate. But it uses various materials. Here's how you can attach sheets:

  • self-tapping screws (for wood), or dowels;
  • glue, "liquid nails", polyurethane foam.

Application of mounting foam

The photo above shows the application of mounting foam to the sheet, in order to then fix it on the wall.

The general scheme of work for any installation method:

  • prepare the base;
  • fix drywall;
  • close up the joints.

Additional strengthening measures are not required. Installation methods can be combined with each other. So, the glued lining can additionally be fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Depending on the variant of the subsequent cladding, the surface can be further puttied, and then sanded and primed.

The choice of one or another option is determined both by personal preferences, and by the evenness and material from which the partitions are built. Yes, drywall concrete wall(smooth) glued or fixed with dowels. The leveled wooden surface is sheathed using self-tapping screws.

Fixing method with self-tapping screws, dowels

Sheathing walls with drywall without a frame using self-tapping screws is possible if there is a base made of a suitable material for this: wood, foam concrete or gypsum. The workflow consists of the following steps:

  • existing protrusions are removed: wooden partitions are leveled by hewing them with an ax or a chisel with a hammer, and walls made of foam concrete (gypsum) with a puncher with an inserted chisel;
  • fix plasterboard sheets in increments of 25-35 cm, using a checkerboard pattern of their location on the surface of the base, with hardware 3.9x25 mm or 3.9x35 mm long (on a flat wooden surface) and 3.9x45 mm (on aerated concrete, gypsum).

Fixing drywall with self-tapping screws

After tightening with a screwdriver, the head of the self-tapping screw should be slightly “drowned” in the facing.

The photo below shows the process of fixing on wooden ceiling drywall piece.

It should be borne in mind that a strong tightening of the hardware at the locations of the depressions causes deformation of the material. To avoid this, the sheets fall short, leaving a slight gap between them and the surface. The strength of the structure being created will not decrease.

When it is impossible to screw self-tapping screws into the wall (the base is made of concrete, brick, cinder block), then the walls are leveled with drywall without a profile, using driven dowels for installation. Their length with non-plastered surfaces should be 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm. If the thickness of the cladding layer exceeds 2 cm, then hardware 6x80 or 8x100 mm is used.

The technology consists of the following operations:

  • using a puncher or a hammer with a chisel, level the base, removing defective areas;
  • when the sheet is installed, then a hole is drilled through it;
  • insert the plastic part;
  • clog or twist a metal core, placing a washer under the hat;
  • thus, they sheathe the entire room, cutting the sheets if necessary.

The substrate for the head of the metal core can be made from a U-shaped fastening for the profile. To do this, it is cut into plates with metal scissors.

In places of depressions, the core is not finished off so that the sheet does not concave.

When all the sheets are attached, then proceed to sealing the seams. With even base surfaces, the use of hardware allows you to quickly sheathe a room or office space.

Gluing technology

To level the walls with drywall for glue, in addition to gypsum compositions, mounting foam and "liquid nails" are usually used. Home-made solutions are also used, for example, based on putty and PVA. At the same time, the techniques for applying the compositions to the surface of the installed material differ.

Before you start attaching drywall to the wall, you should prepare it in a special way. The process consists of the following steps:

  • the working area is cleaned of old finishes (paint, wallpaper, defective plaster);
  • close up cracks;
  • apply two layers of primer;
  • dowels are hammered in the corners (self-tapping screws are screwed in);
  • using a plumb line or level, pull threads (thin ropes) between them;
  • in a selected square lying at an angle of 90 ° relative to the floor, surface irregularities are considered;
  • if deviations of more than 2 cm are detected, a substrate is prepared from fragments from the material being installed (a sufficient width of the pieces is 10 cm);
  • make markings for fixed drywall sheets on a wall without a frame.

When sketching the location of the fragments, the gaps between the edges of the plasterboard and the floor (0.7-1 cm), the ceiling (0.3-0.5 mm) are taken into account. Open areas (output of communications) are also taken into account when marking.

It is convenient to use a laser level for marking.

To attach drywall to a wall without a profile with deviations of more than 2 cm, it is recommended to install beacons. To do this, proceed as follows:

  • stretch the thread horizontally in increments of 50 cm;
  • under them (also after half a meter) glue beacons are applied;
  • control the thread level;
  • allow the beacons to dry before attaching the drywall to the unframed walls.

In the role of beacons, you can also use strips of gypsum board with a length along the height of the room, glued vertically every 50 cm. In addition to guiding functions, they serve as stops for leaning plasterboards.

Options for leveling the base by gluing GKL

The figure below shows the options for aligning walls of various curvature with plasterboard when it is mounted on glue.

  • waiting for the primer to dry completely;
  • apply a fragmentary adhesive mass (2 cm higher than the gap between the back side of the GCR and the base surface) at a distance of about 40 cm from each other over the entire surface of the sheet;
  • in the same way, cover the base with the composition;
  • press the plasterboard fragment against the wall;
  • knock it out with a rubber mallet so that it leans against the beacons.

Installation of GKL on adhesive compositions is considered a more complicated and painstaking method, compared with fixing with dowels (self-tapping screws). It is recommended to use primers for surface treatment before gluing. deep penetration with antiseptic properties.

The use of mounting adhesive to fix drywall is demonstrated in the video below.

Installation using mounting foam is shown in the following video.

The use of frameless methods allows you to both level the wall with drywall without a profile, and save money on work and material. The savings figure can reach almost 60% compared to the frame version. Sheets fixed according to the selected technology will hold securely. At the same time, work on your own is easier and faster (especially on level ground) than using a crate.

Related articles:

Drywall - probably the most popular sheet finishing material for residential premises. Traditionally, it is mounted on a crate or frame made of bar or galvanized profiles. In this article, I'm going to talk about what it looks like attaching drywall to a wall without a profile.

Installation of moisture-resistant drywall on a wall without a crate.

Why drywall

pros

  1. Why exactly GKL is used for leveling and rough wall finishing?

Here are the arguments in his favor:

  • Large sheet area reduces finishing time;

Reference: a standard GKL sheet measuring 2500x1200 mm has an area of ​​3 square meters. The sheet area of ​​3000x1200 is even more impressive - 3.6 m2.

Standard dimensions and weight of GKL.

  • Drywall is permeable to air and water vapor. This means that the room will not be stuffy even with the windows closed. Of course, provided that the main walls have at least the same vapor and air permeability;

The vapor permeability of building envelopes must always increase from the inside out. Otherwise, instead of filtering water vapor into the street, the owner will receive its accumulation in the thickness of the wall. Humidification will contribute to a drop in thermal insulation qualities and a decrease in the service life of walls and ceilings.

Dependence of the state of enclosing structures on the vapor permeability of the layers of the wall, thermal insulation and finishing.

  • The price of a GKL sheet looks very attractive against the background of plaster. According to Crimean rates, plastering a square meter of a wall costs at least 400 rubles without the cost of materials. At the same time, a sheet of ordinary, non-moisture resistant drywall with an area of ​​3 square meters can be bought for 300 rubles. Its installation on the wall, unlike its plastering, does not require experience and special skills;
  • The GKL surface is compatible with any tile adhesives and is suitable for wallpapering on any wallpaper paste. Without exception, all putties also have excellent adhesion to kraft paper - the top layer of gypsum board;
  • From a related material - a gypsum fiber sheet, drywall compares favorably in that even with cracks in the gypsum core, two layers of kraft paper keep it in the same plane. The broken sheet can be used to level the walls, provided that the broken area is securely fastened.

This feature of the material is useful when assembling arches: GKL is notched and bent, then its surface is leveled with puttying.

Minuses

  1. Does the GKL have disadvantages that it is useful for the buyer to know about?

I would politically correct call them not shortcomings, but features of the material:

  • All materials based on gypsum are not friendly with water. Yes, GKLV (moisture-resistant drywall) tolerates dampness well due to the low hygroscopicity of the core and antifungal additives in gypsum, but direct contact with water is also contraindicated for him;

However: the problem is successfully solved by using water-impervious materials in the finishing of the premises. In my bathroom, the plasterboard walls and ceiling are painted with rubber waterproofing paint, which allows them to withstand constant contact with splashes of water and occasional wet cleaning using any non-abrasive cleaners.

The wall above the tiled apron and the ceiling in the bathroom are painted with rubber water-dispersion paint.

  • GKL has a very limited strength. Accidentally hitting a drywall wall while carrying furniture, it can be broken through. To increase the strength of the partitions, their sheathing along the frame is usually made in two layers; however, mounting to a wall without a profile implies mounting the sheet only and exclusively in one layer;
  • It is problematic to hang a shelf or cabinet on a plasterboard partition or main wall after leveling the GKL. Of course, this problem also has a solution, which I will discuss in the corresponding section of the article; however, our material clearly loses in comparison with the main wall in terms of ease of installation of hanging furniture.

Cabinets are easier to hang on concrete or brick walls.

Mounting without profile

What is beneficial

  1. Why do I need to install drywall on a wall without a profile?

There are at least two good reasons for this:

  • Reducing installation costs. The average consumption of gypsum glue Perlfix, which (running a little ahead) is used for mounting drywall on main walls, is 5 kg / sheet at a cost of a 30-kilogram bag from 285 rubles. Thus, the cost of installing one sheet (if, of course, all the work is done by hand) will be only 285/6 = 47.5 rubles;

Gypsum glue Perlfix. Packing - 30 kilograms, cost - from 285 rubles.

I will clarify: in practice, the consumption of glue can increase markedly with significant unevenness of the base. In addition, I did not take into account the cost of priming the wall (however, very insignificant).

At the same time, to mount the same sheet on a crate from a ceiling profile, you need:

Lathing for drywall made of galvanized profile.

At the most humane prices I found (they are offered by the Leroy Merlin online store), this set will cost about 250 rubles;

  • In addition, fixing drywall to a wall without profiles will significantly increase free space rooms. Let's do one more simple calculation: find out how much space the frame will take up with an average distance from the wall to the GKL sheet of 5 centimeters and a room size of 4x5 meters.

The perimeter of the room is 4+4+5+5=18 meters; total area the gap between the wall and drywall is 18 m x 0.05 m = 0.9 m2. Almost 1/20 of the area of ​​​​the room will be inaccessible for use only thanks to the crate.

If you glue the GKL directly on the walls, the cost of the usable area will be limited only by the size of the irregularities on the main wall (as a rule, no more than 5 - 10 mm).

Restrictions

  1. How to find out if the plasterboard can be mounted directly on the wall?

It's simple: if the curvilinearity, blockage or differences in the wall do not exceed 5 centimeters, you can do without the crate. If the size of the irregularities is larger, it is still better to assemble the frame from the profile: the cost of funds and room space will be comparable or change in favor of mounting on the crate.

The long rule and the level will help to assess the curvature and blockage of the walls.

  1. On which walls can drywall be mounted without crates?

Different ways of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow installation:

  • On the main walls and partitions made of brick, limestone, shell rock, concrete (panels and monolith), gas and foam concrete;
  • On wooden partitions (frame and plank, plastered and unplastered).

Partitions in stalinkas - plank, plastered on shingles.

Technology

For self-tapping screws

  1. How to install drywall on a wooden partition in stalinka?

If it does not have significant irregularities, the gypsum board can be fixed with self-tapping screws directly to the wall surface. When decorating the walls in the kitchen of one of my old apartments, I did not even knock down the plaster; because of its thickness, I had to use self-tapping screws 70 mm long for fastening.

  1. What screws to use?

Black phosphated. On wood or plasterboard - it doesn't matter: they differ only in the thread pitch. Self-tapping screws for GVL and drywall have a smaller pitch, due to which it is more difficult to push the sheet through with a hat.

1 - self-tapping screw for drywall and GVL, 2 - self-tapping screw for wood.

  1. How to screw screws?

Only with a screwdriver - cordless or mains powered. After screwing hundreds of self-tapping screws onto one sheet of drywall with a screwdriver, hands feel, frankly, not very good.

Cordless drywall screwdriver.

  1. Is it necessary to reinforce the seams with this installation method??

Necessarily, because with fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometry of wooden partitions will inevitably change. How to do this, I will tell a little later.

  1. How to level a wall with drywall without a profile if it is made of bricks or foam blocks? How to fix the GKL?

It can be attached:

  • On the gypsum glue already mentioned by me;
  • On the mounting foam;

Mounting foam has excellent adhesion to any surfaces.

  • If the base has irregularities of no more than 3-5 mm - on liquid nails or any other construction adhesive.

On glue

  1. How to attach drywall to a wall without a profile using liquid nails?
  • The base is cleaned from peeling plaster, dirt, glossy paint and other weak and low-adhesion coatings;
  • Protrusions with a height of more than 3-5 millimeters are removed with a chisel or perforator;
  • The wall is primed over the entire area with acrylic penetrating primer. It is necessary to primer twice without intermediate drying. The primer will stick the remaining dust and strengthen the surface, preventing the GKL from peeling off along with the top layer of the base. The primer is applied with a sprayer, a long-haired roller or a soft wide brush;

Primer of the main wall under the GKL sticker.

  • After the soil has completely dried, the recesses in the wall with a width of more than 10 centimeters are sealed with cement - sand mortar. You can use a homemade solution of Portland cement and sifted sand in a ratio of 1: 3, as well as any cement plaster or putty;
  • The seal after drying is re-primed;
  • After the soil has completely dried, glue is applied to the back surface of the drywall sheet in strips. The step between the strips is 10-15 cm;

So liquid nails are applied to the back surface of the sheet.

  • The sheet is pressed tightly against the wall and supported by several inclined boards at different heights.

On the foam

  1. How to fix drywall with foam?

Foam differs from liquid nails and other building adhesives in two ways:

  • It perfectly fills all the recesses in the wall. If so, they can not be sealed - it is enough to remove protrusions with a height of more than 5 millimeters;
  • The foam expands upon setting. Therefore, we will have to fix the sheet against the wall for 30 - 60 minutes after it is pasted.

How to do it? Here is a simple instruction:

  • Putting the sheet against the wall and supporting it with a pair of inclined boards, mark and drill 8 holes for dowel screws measuring approximately 8x80 mm in the sheet and the wall at an equal distance from each other;
  • Apply foam on the back of the sheet - dotted with a step of 20 cm or stripes around the perimeter and inside the sheet;
  • Press the sheet against the wall and fix it with dowel screws. Their hats do not need to be heated below the surface level, as when mounted on a frame: after the foam has set, the screws can be removed or, conversely, screwed to the level of the main wall and hide the holes with putty.

Plasterboard slopes are planted on mounting foam and fixed with dowel-screws for the time of its setting.

The position of the sheet strictly in the vertical plane must be controlled by a long level or a rule and a plumb line. Dowel-screws will not allow drywall to bend in the direction from the wall, and expansion of the mounting foam will prevent bending in the opposite direction.

For gypsum glue

  1. How to fix drywall on a wall without a profile on gypsum glue?

First of all: not only specialized glue (Perlfix, Volma Montazh, etc.) is suitable for this purpose, but also any gypsum putty or plaster. Their price is approximately equal to the cost of glue, adhesive qualities also practically do not differ.

Plaster or putty can successfully replace gypsum glue.

Work in this case also begins with the preparation of the wall. It must be cleaned of dirt, dust-free and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer twice.

The adhesive composition is prepared as follows:

  • Glue, plaster or putty is poured into a wide container with water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of the mixture. They are as evenly distributed as possible over the surface of the water;

The dry mixture is poured into water. If you pour water into gypsum glue, a lot of dry lumps will remain at the bottom of the container.

  • Then the future glue is aged for 3-5 minutes. During this time, the maximum volume of the dry mixture should be saturated with water;
  • The mixture is mixed manually (with a spatula or trowel) or with a mixer. A drill with an appropriate nozzle will also work. Stir the mixture until you get uniform consistency without lumps.

Glue can be applied with equal success both to the wall and to the sheet itself. It seems to me more convenient to apply to the wall: GKL already weighs 30 kg, and together with glue it becomes very massive and inconvenient to move. The glue should be applied in blotches in increments of 15 - 20 centimeters; a solid roller is needed only at the level of the plinth - it will significantly simplify its fastening with dowels and screws.

So gypsum glue is applied to the surface of the GKL.

Then the sheet is pressed against the wall and leveled using a level and a rule in a vertical plane. As a rule, he does not need additional fixation: the viscosity of the adhesive ensures the stability of the position. The position and bend of the GKL are corrected with light strokes of the palm or a rubber mallet.

By the way: I used the same method of fixing drywall when finishing door and window slopes. The final gypsum putty Eurogypsum was used as glue.

The slopes of the doorway in the photo are finished with drywall, planted on the Eurogips finishing putty.

A couple of nuances:

  • When mounting adjacent sheets, special attention must be paid to the relative position of their edges. The differences will have to be removed with a thick layer of putty, which will unnecessarily increase the cost of money and time for finishing;

The edges of adjacent sheets must be strictly in the same plane.

  • On a curved wall with significant differences, it is worth first sticking beacons from GKL scraps on the same gypsum glue or putty. For the same purpose, dowel-screws partially screwed into the wall can also be used; the position of the sheet is corrected by screwing them in and out a few turns.

The sheets are aligned in the same plane with the help of improvised beacons.

Sealing and puttying

  1. How to seal seams between adjacent sheets?

Drywall (even moisture resistant) has a certain hygroscopicity and slightly changes its linear dimensions with fluctuations in humidity. The same thing happens with temperature changes: thermal expansion has not been canceled. Periodic changes in the dimensions of adjacent sheets sooner or later lead to the appearance of cracks along the seams separating them.

A few years after finishing the room, cracks appeared at the seams without reinforcement.

So that the seams do not crack, they need to be reinforced. For this purpose, a sickle is traditionally used - a rolled self-adhesive glass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh.

Reinforcement of the seam with sickle.

The seam is puttied in at least two passes. The cavity of the seam is filled with putty with the first pass, the fiberglass mesh reinforcing the seam is covered with the second pass. Sometimes a third pass is required: when drying, the putty shrinks slightly, but noticeably, and the seam after it has set looks concave.

The preparation and use of putty has several subtleties:

  • It is prepared in small batches. The specific size of a single serving of putty depends on your puttying skills. It seems to me convenient to use no more than one and a half kilograms of dry mixture at a time;

Putty is prepared in small portions. The life time of the finished mixture does not exceed 30 - 40 minutes.

  • Wash dishes and spatulas before preparing each new serving. Otherwise, the old putty will form hard lumps in the solution. These lumps, when putty is applied to the GKL, will leave untidy furrows in it;
  • To fill the seam, it is convenient to use a spatula with a width of 10 - 12 cm. The seam is filled with sliding movements crosswise; in this case, both sides of it are filled with putty as evenly and densely as possible;

The edges of the sheets cut to size before puttying are cut with a sharp knife.

  • The second (covering) layer of putty is applied with movements along the seam with a spatula 30-35 centimeters wide. Putty is previously applied to it with a narrow spatula.

I prefer to reinforce the seam not with sickle, but with rolled fiberglass: due to the smaller thickness of the material, the seam stands out less on the surface of adjacent sheets. Fiberglass is denser than a mesh and does not allow filling a seam through it, so the reinforcement technology differs markedly from the one I described above:

  • The seam is filled with putty (taking into account its shrinkage during drying - twice);
  • Then fiberglass is glued along the seam. Glue - diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 PVA. It is applied to the fiberglass laid on top of the drywall scraps with a wide brush;

Rolled fiberglass. Due to its smaller thickness, it gives a more accurate seam compared to sickle.

It is more convenient to cut fiberglass for stickers in pieces about a meter long.

  • The reinforcing tape is pressed against the seam and smoothed out with a rubber or steel spatula. If you do it with your bare hands, there will be a lot of the thinnest fragments of fiberglass in the skin. These splinters are not very painful and come out quickly, but they noticeably interfere with work;
  • After the glue has dried (it takes no more than an hour), the seam is covered with the final layer of putty and polished.
  1. Do I need to putty the entire surface of drywall?

This is not required, but desirable. Putty creates a separating layer on the surface, which allows, if necessary, to peel off the wallpaper without peeling off the top layer of kraft paper. In addition, puttying the surface will reliably mask the seams that stand out.

Plastering plasterboard walls.

It is convenient to use a special corner spatula to align the corners.

Puttying the surface is easiest to do in two layers “on a peel”: the putty is applied with a narrow spatula to a wide one and spread on the plasterboard with sliding movements as thin as possible. After drying the first layer, the operation is repeated again.

There should be at least two weeks between plastering the drywall and painting the walls with water-based paint. During this time, the remaining moisture will completely leave the seams. If you rush to paint, the seams will stand out dark tone with any number of dye layers.

  1. How to sand?

I use a vibrating sander for this purpose with sanding grids No. 80 (first pass) and No. 120 (second pass) fixed to it. Sanding is best with the brightest possible light, directed at an oblique angle to the surface: it will allow you to see the slightest irregularities due to cast or shadows.

Even an inexpensive vibrating grinder will greatly speed up the work compared to a hand grater.

Do not be too lazy to put on goggles and a gauze bandage or a respirator. Gypsum dust strongly irritates the eyes and mucous membranes.

Comrades! Do not neglect personal protective equipment!

Hanging furniture

  1. How to fix a hinged shelf or cabinet on a wall pasted over with plasterboard?

If the wall is sheathed with GKL on self-tapping screws or pasted over with building glue, there will be no problems in principle: the sheet is tightly pressed against the wall, which makes it possible to use ordinary dowel-screws of increased length for installation.

Foam or gypsum glue means that there is a gap between the sheet and the main wall, allowing the drywall to be washed during installation.

At the stage of wall sheathing, the problem is solved in two ways:

  • In the place of the intended attachment of the hanging furniture, a continuous layer of gypsum glue, plaster or putty is applied to the back side of the plasterboard or to the wall;

The more often glue cakes are applied, the greater the load the lining will withstand.

  • The GKL section is cut out, and instead of it, a wooden embedded part of the appropriate thickness is attached to the wall with dowel screws or anchors.

The latter method will also work if the drywall is already fixed: it is enough to cut it with a sharp knife around the perimeter of the embedded part and cut out the gypsum glue with a chisel, after which the mortgage from a bar or thick plywood is attached directly to the wall.

Finally, to attach hanging furniture directly through the drywall and the gap between it and the main wall, you can use elongated anchors with a couple of additional threaded nuts. The fixing angles of the cabinets are clamped between these nuts.

To fasten the cabinet, it is enough to supply the wedge anchor with a couple of additional nuts.

For light shelves, Molly anchors can be used. They only stick to drywall.

Conclusion

I hope that my simple advice will help the dear reader in finishing his own home. As always, I would appreciate your comments and additions. Additional information will be offered to your attention by the video in this article. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Not a single repair in our time is complete without drywall. Walls are constantly sheathed with this material, they are made from it various designs and they finish the ceilings. Typically for mounting drywall sheets pre-mount the frame on which the material is fixed. Increasingly, however, people are looking to attach drywall to a wall without a profile. What is it connected with? First of all, with the desire to save time, money and labor resources.

But can drywall be fixed directly to the wall? The question is ambiguous. Experienced craftsmen recommend mounting a metal or wooden frame and only then fixing gypsum boards on it. However, at correct installation, you can install drywall on walls without a frame. Nevertheless, it is better to think it over several times, and if only if the solution has no alternatives to get down to business, since fixing the GKL without a frame just for the sake of saving can result in high costs in the future. You can fix drywall in this way, for example, if you are doing repairs in small rooms, such as bathrooms, toilets, balconies, then the frame will steal precious space.

One of the exotic ways to fasten drywall without a profile is to glue it on a mounting foam.

Conditions for fastening without profiles

In order to attach directly to the wall GKL or GVL, you need to follow a series necessary conditions, without which this procedure is simply impossible.

The wall should be vertical and perfectly flat, that is, not have any even the slightest slope. There are situations when the wall does not stand evenly enough and in such cases it is carried out, the frame is partially installed. Metal profiles in this installation option serve only as an equalizer for the wall.

The height of the room should not exceed the length of the drywall sheet. The problem here is that when installing drywall sheets, it is understood that the joints of different pieces of drywall will be located along transverse metal profiles. If you fasten the sheets directly to the wall, then you should not have transverse joints at all, since there will be nothing to fasten them to.

If the wall has minor irregularities from two millimeters to two centimeters, then there is an option to level it with a starting putty, in which ten to fifteen percent of gypsum should be added first. For fixing drywall, it is recommended to use ready-made adhesive mixtures. The mixture must be applied around the perimeter of the entire sheet, as well as in one continuous strip in its center.

If the irregularities are much larger, then plasterboard beacons can be used instead of frame profiles. They are drywall, cut into squares or rectangles of ten to twenty centimeters and serve to level the wall with drywall sheets without a frame.

After the adhesive mixture dries, the drywall sheets are again fastened with dowels in the corners and in the center. The dowels are fastened so that they go into the wall by at least forty millimeters.

After the final installation of the sheets has been carried out, it is necessary to putty the connecting seams, as well as glue the mesh.

Related video to help

Required Tools

For finishing, you will need some non-standard tools. It is better to prepare them in advance.

  • Knife, with replaceable blades for cutting drywall sheets;
  • Electric jigsaw or saw for working with drywall;
  • Strong thread. It will come in handy to create a plane level;
  • Nails or screws;
  • Building level;
  • Simple pencil;
  • Plumb;
  • Scraper to clean the edges of the drywall sheet;
  • Drill, whisk and bucket to dilute and stir the solution;
  • Putty knife. It is better to take two spatulas - wide and narrow;
  • Rubber mallet;
  • Ordinary hammer;
  • Pliers;
  • Phillips screwdriver.

Let's also look at the materials that will be used in the course of work.

  • Plasterboard sheets;
  • Glue, for working with plasterboard sheets. You can also use the starting putty if you add ten percent gypsum or PVA glue to it;
  • Water;
  • Primer;
  • Dowels. The size of each dowel should be from eighty to one hundred and twenty millimeters;
  • Serpyanka;
  • Glue.

Preparation for installation

If you are going to drywall a brick or concrete wall, then it must first be cleaned and sprayed with mortar. Then the surface needs to be primed. Soil must be diluted strictly in accordance with the instructions specified by the manufacturer. If it is written on the package that the primer is ready for use, then nothing needs to be diluted. You can immediately start processing the wall.

If the old plaster has been preserved on the wall, it is tedious to carefully examine it in order to identify weak points and treat them with a mortar, and then with a primer.

It is categorically impossible to attach drywall sheets to walls in rooms in which there is constant dampness. And also it is impossible to carry out this type of repair if condensation remains on the walls of the room. This will seriously damage the fastening of the sheets. In such rooms, it is necessary to use a special moisture-resistant drywall and fasten it only to the frame.

Before fixing drywall, it is necessary to inspect with the help of a level and a plumb line for deviations from the vertical and in the alignment. If it is possible, then all the convex places must be knocked down, and the depressions must be covered with mortar in order to perfectly level the surface before starting installation.

After priming, with a pencil or chalk, markings are applied to the wall. If you do this before priming, then all the drawings will simply wash off. Sheets of drywall, on the side of attachment to the wall, must also be lubricated with a primer before attachment. Lighthouses need to be cut out of drywall sheets and lubricated with a primer on both sides.

If this is necessary, the next step in the installation is the installation of electrical wiring. In cases where the wire must pass on the ledges of the wall, it must be drowned in drywall. To do this, you will have to make special grooves in the sheet.

Mounting on flat and curved surfaces

If the wall surface is relatively flat, then beacons will not have to be used. Use a mixer to mix dry powder in water to make glue. If you do not have a mixer, then you can make the glue by hand, but then the process will take much more time and effort.

If you decide to add PVA glue to the putty, then first you need to dilute the glue in water, and only then pour the dry powder. If you do the opposite, then the putty will harden very quickly and turn into a stone. Naturally, after that, it can no longer be used for its intended purpose.

Apply glue to drywall sheets in one continuous strip around the entire perimeter on all edges. In the center of the sheet, you also need to apply several cakes from the solution in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the cakes should be about forty centimeters. To make the fastening sufficiently reliable, you need to glue more than a tenth of the surface of the drywall sheet with glue.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Attach the sheet to the wall strictly vertically. It must be attached and pressed against the wall. It is best if someone will help you with this, since it is problematic to do this process alone. Check how firmly the sheet is attached. If you have any doubts, then press it harder on those places where the lag occurs. Just enough solution is applied to the sheet to allow for this post-adjustment. If the solution is not enough, then theoretically the sheet can be peeled off, but it is better to avoid such situations, since the plasterboard sheet can simply break during the peeling process.

If the wall is tilted or rotated, then beacons will have to be used. Use a strong thread to make a net indicating the desired verticality and flatness. Next, the beacons are installed in the right places. You need to install them so that they touch the thread frame. Then drywall sheets are attached in the same way as in the first version. After that, fix the problem areas with dowels, and seal the seams with putty and sickle.

If you attach drywall sheets to a wooden wall or ceiling, then everything is much easier. To install such a sheathing, it is enough to fasten the sheets to the wall with self-tapping screws or screws. If a wooden wall not even, then this is corrected by applying additional wooden overlays, and all bulges can be removed with an ordinary planer.

As you can see, there are different ways installation of drywall sheets, but the most reliable way GKL installation - installation on a metal frame. Only in this way will the sheets hold firmly enough.

Successful perception of the repair and construction work carried out. Even the finest materials finishing lose all their gloss against the background of depressions or bumps of wall planes. Therefore, the alignment of the walls during the repair can be considered a priority. For its implementation, drywall is the best suited.

GKL, as a finishing material, does not need special advertising. Moisture-resistant, ordinary, fire-resistant - for any room you can choose drywall of the required quality. For bathrooms - moisture resistant, for the corridor - fire-resistant, common for living rooms.

Standard sizes 600x1250, 1200x2000, 1200x2500, 1200x3000 allow the use of this material with virtually no waste. After minimal processing, the surface of the sheets is ready for wallpapering, applying textured plaster, and laying tiles.

There are two ways of fastening the GKL to the walls - frame and frameless.

  1. The first option is much more suitable for large rooms where there is no space limit. The profile frame and the drywall mounted on it take at least 40 mm of the floor and ceiling from each wall (27 mm - profile + 12.5 mm - GKL).
  2. The frameless method allows you to fix drywall sheets directly to the vertical surfaces of a room or office. In addition to saving space, this method is more profitable from an economic point of view. The financial component of the frame is 60% of the cost of walls assembled from plasterboard.

There are three options for frameless installation of drywall sheets on walls:

  • Fastening sheets with self-tapping screws.
  • Installation of plasterboard dowels.
  • Gluing drywall.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the alignment of the walls with drywall sheets, it is necessary to make a general analysis of the proposed activities and choose a method for their implementation.

The overall assessment of the situation includes:

  • Checking the verticality of the walls. Produced using a level or plumb.
  • Inspection of the plane of the walls. It is performed with a long rule, or with a stretched cord. The presence of bumps and depressions is revealed.
  • Checking outside and inside corners. It is carried out in order to determine deviations from geometric correctness (often it is 90 degrees). The tool is most often a square.
  • Assessment of door and window openings. A check is made vertically and horizontally and the need to adjust the openings with the help of GKL is determined.

Depending on the identified deviations and the condition of the walls, the alignment method is selected. Small errors can be completely eliminated by fixing sheets of drywall directly to existing walls. Large drops and irregularities will require either a frame or GKL installation on a special glue.

Installation of drywall sheets with self-tapping screws

This installation option is possible only if there is a base into which self-tapping screws can be screwed. It could be a tree aerated concrete blocks or plaster walls.

Preliminary preparation for installation work will consist in the removal of protruding sections of the wall plane. tubercles wooden base leveled with a hammer and chisel, it is also possible to use a hatchet. Foam concrete and gypsum partitions are easiest to process with a puncher with a chisel.

Sheets of drywall are attached in a checkerboard pattern. Hardware for fastening are wood screws. The screw length varies depending on the wall material. For facing a relatively flat wooden surface, self-tapping screws 3.9x25 and 3.9x35 mm are suitable.

Self-tapping screws 3.9x45 mm are used for mounting GKL on aerated concrete and gypsum partitions. When tightening the screws, it is necessary to monitor the depth of the recessed head of the hardware. It is considered normal if the screw is immersed in drywall by 1 - 2 mm. The fastening step is about 250 mm at the edge of the sheet and 250 - 350 mm at its center.

Particular attention should be paid to the attachment points of the GKL in the areas - depressions. Strongly tightened self-tapping screws simply deform drywall. As a result, it will exactly repeat the relief of the uneven walls.

In such cases, it makes sense not to reach the hardware, leaving a small space between the base and the sheets. This will not greatly affect the strength of the structure, but the number of layers of putty for leveling will significantly reduce.

GKL fastening with dowels

If it is not possible to screw self-tapping screws into walls and partitions, then drywall can be mounted on dowels. For non-plastered brick, concrete and cinder block bases, driven dowels 6x40 or 6x60 mm are used. When the walls are plastered, and the plaster layer reaches 20 mm, you will have to use hardware 6x80 and even 8x100 mm.

The preparation of seats for the installation of dowels is carried out by a perforator with a drill of the appropriate diameter. The hole is drilled through a sheet of drywall installed in place. The plastic clip should have a “sweat” ending.

It is advisable to tighten the metal core with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Sometimes it is impossible to tighten the self-tapping screw and you have to resort to the help of a hammer. In this case, it is advisable to put a homemade washer - a gasket under the screw head. Such washers can be made from a U-shaped bracket for plasterboards. To do this, the bracket is cut with scissors for metal into several plates, and a self-tapping screw is threaded into the existing holes.

As in the case of mounting sheets on self-tapping screws, depressions on the plane of walls and partitions can become a problem area. The recipe for elimination is to not pull the dowel core all the way.

Installation of drywall on the adhesive mixture

Such an assembly is the most difficult and painstaking way to level walls with drywall without a frame. Installation is carried out in the following order:

  1. Inspection of the leveled surface. Includes the definition of protruding places of walls and piers. In these areas, the amount of adhesive applied will be minimal. Identification of areas with swollen plaster and putty. Such places will need to be cleaned up.
  2. Surface preparation for installation. Mechanical removal of old wallpaper, tiles, loose plaster. Notching sections of walls covered with oil or pentaphthalic paints.
  3. Priming of walls and partitions. As a primer, it is better to use a deep penetration primer. For areas covered with paint, concrete contact can be used.
  4. Installation of beacons. The main task of such an event is to create points of support for the back side of the GCR. Lighthouse marks can be plastic clips of dowels with self-tapping screws screwed into them. The heads of the hardware should create a plane on which the drywall will be mounted.
  5. Installation of drywall sheets. A special adhesive mass is applied both to the wall and to the plasterboard. The glue is applied not in a continuous layer, but in fragments. The distance between such fragments is 30 - 40 cm. The height is 15 - 20 mm more than the gap between the base and the back of the drywall. The sheet is pressed against the wall, and the correctness of its installation is checked by a rule with a level.
    6. Through what distance to fix hangers for the profile to the wall