What to make a black floor. How to make a draft floor in a wooden house with your own hands. What is a subfloor

31.10.2019

Builders call the rough floor the base on top of which the finishing layer is laid. floor covering. If a we are talking about concrete floors, under the arrangement of the subfloor means the installation of dry or wet screed to level the surface. In wooden structures, this term is used by specialists to denote the lower part of a two-tiered ceiling.

Mount subfloor in wooden house with your own hands it will not be difficult if you have the skill of working on the installation of wooden structures. Overlappings in a wooden house are made two-layer, so that it is possible to lay heat-insulating material.

Insulated floors in a wooden house on the ground floor are an opportunity:

reduce heat loss at home, thereby reducing heating costs during the cold season;
exclude blowing through the cracks in the floor (drafts not only create discomfort, but are also dangerous to health).

A double floor with heat-insulating material in the middle of the structure is also mounted as a ceiling between the first floor and the attic (or second floor, residential attic). The insulation prevents heat from escaping through the roof and at the same time serves as a sound insulator if the upper room is used as a living room or workshop.

Construction of the subfloor of the first floor

The system consists of the following elements:

Logs.
Skull bars. Support for boardwalk, stuffed along the bottom edge of the log.
Subfloor flooring. It is made from boards or sheet wood material.
waterproofing layer. The heat insulator protects from moisture.
Insulation. Mounted between the lags.
Vapor barrier layer. Prevents the penetration of moisture into the insulation.
Counter rake. It is stuffed longitudinally along the logs or beams to create a ventilation gap - this prevents the top deck from rotting.
Flooring. It is mounted from planed boards or sheet material; a topcoat can be laid on top of it.

Before making a draft floor in a wooden house, ventilation of the space under the future lower flooring should be ensured. To do this, there must be air vents in the base. If they are not there, you will have to drill large holes in the corners of the base of the building.

Ventilation will protect the wood from which the ceiling is made from damage by the fungus. The products are tightened with a mesh so that rodents do not penetrate under the floor. If in winter period snowdrifts sweep above the air vents, a ventilation pipe should be brought up from the underground space, the upper cut of which should be protected by an umbrella from the penetration of precipitation.

Another important condition for the safety of the structure is the high-quality processing of lumber with a composition for fire and bioprotection. Processing is performed after the timber, board or other element is sized. This allows you to protect the ends of each element and prevent the appearance of foci of decay. Processing is carried out in two passes with a break for drying the first layer of the composition.

Also, the lower part should be treated with an antiseptic. wooden walls buildings on the inside - all the structures that the laid subfloor will hide.

Installation lag

Lags are load-bearing structural elements. They are installed in increments of 400-600 mm - this parameter depends on the calculated loads and the section of the element. As a log, a bar with a section of 100x150 mm (for light loads), 150x150 mm (for medium loads), 150x200 mm (for high loads) is used.

If you have to use a beam of small cross section at high loads (or a 50x150 mm board placed on the edge), the lag installation step is reduced to 300-400 mm.

The best option is laying the ends of the lag on the plinth or grillage. But for this, the width of the free part of the foundation base must be at least 120 mm. Strapping is in progress - boards of small thickness are laid on the free part of the grillage or plinth on top of the waterproofing layer so that the wood does not come into contact with capillary moisture rising through the porous concrete.

The ends of the logs are fixed on the strapping boards with the help of corners mounted on both sides of the timber. Logs cannot be rigidly fastened, since the tree changes its geometric dimensions with changes in temperature and humidity. Between the end of the log and the wall there should be a gap of 20-30 mm for such an expansion. This gap is usually filled with an elastic insulation, for example, mineral wool.

If the width of the free part of the foundation base is less than 100 mm, the logs are cut into the wall of the house. At the end of each element, a recess is made for the missing centimeters, taking into account 20 mm for the expansion of wood.

It is advisable to refuse a deep tie-in so as not to weaken the walls. In this case, support columns are erected next to the foundation so that they bear the main load that falls on the ends of the log.

Logs need a reliable support in the middle part, if the length of the run exceeds 2-2.5 m. Brick columns act as supports. To reduce the number of columns, a thick beam is laid on brick supports, on which all logs will rest. The total height of the supporting structure (post + beam) must exactly correspond to the height of the foundation with the laid board framing.

Under each cross beam, at least three brick pillars are required to create a reliable support. The columns are placed along one line, for each a pit is prepared with a depth of 400 mm and a section of 200x200 mm. A layer of gravel 100 mm is poured on the bottom and rammed, then a layer of sand 100 mm is also rammed.

On the prepared “pillow”, a reinforcing mesh in the form of a square 150x150 mm is installed on small supports, poured concrete mix. After the concrete has gained strength, the resulting foundation is waterproofed with roofing material and a column of bricks fastened with mortar is erected. Before laying the transverse beam or log (if the posts are mounted under the logs), a layer of waterproofing material is laid on the post.

Subfloor device in a wooden house

Properly installed logs form a horizontal plane - when performing, control the accuracy of the installation of each element with a level.

Cranial bars with a section of 40x40 mm or 50x50 mm are attached to the lower part of the lag. If it is possible to dissolve the boards, it is cheaper to buy boards with a section of 40x150 mm and get three suitable bars from each. They are fastened with nails and form ledges for the flooring.

Draft floors are the bottom flooring, which is laid on top of the cranial bars. For installation use moisture resistant plywood or OSB boards, but boards of small width are more often used. They are cut to size so that the elements fit in a continuous layer without gaps. This flooring should not be fixed.

Installation of a subfloor in a wooden house involves laying waterproofing roll material. A special membrane or dense polyethylene film is used. The material should envelop all the logs, the joints of the panels are glued with reinforced tape, overlapping at least 120 mm wide. The edges of the material should go to the walls - the excess is subsequently cut off.

The next stage is the laying of thermal insulation between the lags. When choosing how to insulate your home, pay attention to the operational parameters of plate or roll materials. Mineral wool insulation and foam polymer boards are popular. If the thickness of the heat insulator exceeds the height of the log, bars of suitable thickness are stuffed on them.

Plates mineral wool cut with a margin of width and length of a couple of centimeters and installed in the thrust. Rigid slabs of foam or polyurethane foam are cut to size, the joints are sealed with mounting foam.

If mineral wool insulation is chosen, a vapor barrier must be installed. It does not allow moisture to accumulate in the fibrous heat insulator, as this drastically reduces the effectiveness of insulation.

It is important to ensure the tightness of the vapor barrier around the perimeter and at the joints of the sheets. The material (dense polyethylene film or a special membrane) is attached to the logs with a stapler. Its edges can be fastened to the wrapped edges of the waterproofing material using reinforced tape. The same tape is used to glue the joints of canvases laid with an overlap of 100-150 mm.

Laying the subfloor continues with the installation of counter rails along the logs. They are needed to create a ventilation gap under the top deck. This will reduce the risk of the appearance and development of the fungus.

The top flooring of a wooden floor is mounted from high-quality boards or sheet material - plywood, wood boards. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping screws, since the nails loosen and crawl out over time, the plank base begins to creak.

After installation of the flooring, the subfloor is considered ready.

Conclusion

Step-by-step instructions help you figure out how to make a subfloor in a wooden house. Ideally, this issue is worked out at the stage of preparing the building project. For example, support beams passing through two adjacent rooms and an internal partition are designed in advance.

When developing a project for a foundation base, it is worth considering the optimal width of the grillage, taking into account the width of the building structures, so that in the future it would not be necessary to cut the logs into the wall.

A well-mounted subfloor will give home comfort and warmth, increase the thermal efficiency of the house and help save on its operation.

The subfloor is one of the main components of the floor structure as a whole, on top of which, after carrying out the necessary additional previous measures, the fine finish chosen by the owner of the housing is laid. This design can have a different structure and be made of various materials.

Regardless of the design chosen, the subfloor will consist of several basic layers, information on which is given in the following table.

Table. The structure of the subfloor

Layer	Description and functions
Underlayment	Provides uniform distribution of loads created by the structural elements arranged above. It is the bottom layer of the pie. Traditionally, it is a floor slab or a suitably prepared soil.
Leveling layer	The functions are clear from the name and boil down to leveling the bumps of the previous layer. If necessary, at the stage of arranging the leveling layer, the required slope of the surface is set. For the arrangement, sand and gravel are traditionally used, as well as a concrete screed.
Intermediate layer	It takes on the functions of a kind of layer that connects the lower and higher equipped layers of the subfloor.
insulating layer	Consists of moisture, heat and soundproof materials. Features of the choice and arrangement of those are determined by the level of the future functional load on the structure.

You will spend significantly less time and effort on arranging such a design than on pouring a screed. In addition, the installation of wooden poles does not require the use of water, which eliminates the likelihood of an increase in air humidity in the room being equipped and makes it possible to simultaneously engage in other planned finishing activities. The logs are directly laid on beams, a concrete base or other supports, which will be discussed later.

In this case, the functions of supports for flooring made of boards, plywood or OSB boards are taken over by the construction of longitudinal logs. The latter can be mounted on support posts or beams, as well as on a mortgage crown. If necessary, logs can even be attached to a concrete base. A specific option is selected in accordance with the features of the equipped structure.

If the room has an impressive area, just fixing the log ends to the beams will not be enough to ensure the required structural strength. In this case, support posts are mounted between the walls to maintain the lag. The distance between additional supports is determined mainly by the cross section of the mounted elements. In most cases, it is enough to make columns in increments of up to 0.8 m. Otherwise, be guided by the features of your situation.

Directly the columns are made of concrete or brick. At this point, also be guided by your preferences.

Operating procedure

The sequence of arranging the subfloor according to the logs is as follows:

horizontal marking of the surface is performed. Having determined the required level of installation of the floor, laces, fishing line or dense thread are stretched across the place of future installation of the log - such marking will allow you to orient yourself in the process of arranging the log and place them on the same level. If you wish, you can not do this, but then you will have to check the horizontalness of the supports at each stage of work, spending more time correcting inaccuracies;
the surface is covered with a waterproofing material, for example, with a polyethylene film 200 microns thick. Such a layer will protect wooden logs from moisture from concrete, soil and other sources;
the optimal lag setting step is determined. To do this, you need to know the expected level of load on the future structure. In residential areas, it is recommended to adhere to a 35-45 cm step. If the base cannot boast of perfect evenness, the logs will have to be attached to pre-arranged linings. As such, pieces of plywood are most often used;
holes are drilled in the base to accommodate dowels. Next, the dowels are driven in directly. In conclusion, it remains to simply fasten the logs to the base using self-tapping screws.

If necessary, the space between the lags is filled with insulation. From backfills, expanded clay is most often used, from "monolithic" materials - mineral wool insulation. When choosing a specific option, consider the climatic features of your region and focus on the available budget.

Flooring can be made from plywood, chipboard, OSB or wooden board. The task is extremely simple: the elements of the rough flooring are laid perpendicular to the logs and nailed to them.

A very effective option, rapidly gaining popularity among domestic developers. To perform the work, plastic screw racks are used, which are characterized by high reliability and service life.

This technology allows you to quickly equip the subfloor, which will not creak in the future. At the same time, you do not have to waste time determining the required thickness of plywood linings and their arrangement - the verticality of the legs can be easily adjusted to the required level. After installation, the logs will not come into contact with the base, which is also an additional advantage.

The procedure is as follows:

in the places of the planned installation of screw racks (mandatory along the edges and along the length of the product with an average step of 0.5-0.8 m), holes are prepared in the logs;
the log is laid in the right place, starting from one of the walls. Between the wall and the support you need to leave a 1-centimeter gap;
the support is attached to the base, starting from the extreme screw posts. Such a rack has a hollow structure. To fix it, it is enough for the performer to drill a hole in it with a depth of about 4.5 cm, drive a dowel into it, and then hammer in a nail or screw in a self-tapping screw.

At the end, the racks are twisted according to the level, and work continues in accordance with the scheme for arranging the subfloor on standard logs, discussed earlier.

Adjustable plywood subfloors

Quite efficient and interesting option subfloor is a plywood base, installed using special bushings equipped with internal thread. The bushings are inserted into pre-created holes in the plywood. For one sheet of standard size, as a rule, 16 holes are enough. As a result, plywood will, as it were, stand on legs. At the same time, such a base is characterized by impressive resistance indicators - 1 m2 of the subfloor can withstand a load of about 5000 kg.

Dry screed allows you to level all existing defects in the base. At the same time, the installation of such a subfloor can be performed at any desired time of the year.

Draft floor prefabricated with a dry screed. 1. reinforced concrete floor slab; 2. wooden log; 3. flooring made of chipboard, OSB or plywood; 4. vapor barrier (PVC film); 5. expanded clay sand; 6. Knauf gypsum board or superfloor element. 7. elastic pad

The procedure is as follows:

the base is covered with a layer of vapor barrier material, fixed with adhesive tape. Do vapor barrier with an overlap on the walls corresponding to the planned height of the future screed;
between the guides, the composition selected for arranging a dry screed is poured. If the base has large drops, it makes sense to pre-set the rack beacons on the surface according to the level - this will guarantee the correctness and accuracy of the work. In addition, the presence of such beacons will greatly simplify the further fastening of the flooring. The thickness of the backfill layer is selected taking into account the features specific situation. On average, it is 30-50 mm;
backfill is leveled with a long rule or rail;
a subfloor flooring is laid on top of the backfill and fastened with self-tapping screws and glue. Drywall sheets, chipboard, plywood sheets with moisture-resistant properties, etc. are traditionally used for flooring.

Floors by reinforced concrete floors with prefabricated screed gypsum fiber sheets for residential and public buildings (Knauf)

Important nuances of the subfloor device in a wooden house

In wooden houses, the draft floor is most often arranged on the ground (otherwise, you can use suitable option from the above list). Job requirements are as follows:

the room must be dry and well ventilated. For this, the foundation design is supplemented with air vents. If the basement has damp soil, a waterproofing layer must be installed on top of it. Traditionally, clay is used for this - it is enough to fill the surface with material and carefully compact it, sprinkling sand on top;
the base must be waterproofed. When working with the foundation, roofing material is most often used. If you wish, you can use another material with a similar purpose.

Before starting work, treat all used wooden elements with a special antiseptic. Impregnation is recommended to be applied in a double layer, maintaining a 5-hour interval. Don't forget to wear funds personal protection: gloves, respirator and goggles.

Subfloor boards can be installed in one of the following ways:

over pre-installed H-beams. In this case, the flooring elements are laid in the grooves of the supports;
over T-beams. The boards are laid on the shoulders of the supports;
on black bars. The easiest to use, and therefore the most popular option. It is enough to simply nail the bars to the edges of the beams and lay the boards on top of them.

If the work is carried out in a non-residential premises, if desired, you can replace the boards with a slab and save.

It remains only to lay layers of hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier material on top of the boards. After that, depending on the preferences of the owner, either the finishing flooring is arranged or the screed is poured.

The vapor barrier is attached over the lag

You have become familiar with the subfloor arrangement sequence in accordance with the most common and preferred methods. Choose the option that is most suitable for your case, and everything will definitely work out.

Successful work!

Video - Subfloor device

A high-quality and beautiful floor is the basis of comfort in the house. The floor is an interior decoration, but not only. During operation, it withstands the weight of people and furniture in the house, helps to save heat. For it to be so, he needs a solid foundation.

In the case of a house made of wood, this base will be the subfloor wooden lags. It is easy to make with your own hands, it is strong and durable.

The purpose of the subfloor

AT general sense subfloor - flooring over the ceiling or beams at the base of the building, which is laid under the floor covering. For its manufacture, it is used various materials, most commonly wood. It can be OSB-board, plywood or cutting boards. In the case of non-residential buildings, lumber can be used without pre-treatment of the ends, as well as used.

The draft floor helps to solve three main tasks:

Additional thermal insulation.

One of the most popular subfloor designs is the joist design. It is easy to place a roll of insulating material in the space between the beams, which will significantly reduce heat loss.

Leveling the base for flooring.

It is difficult to create a beautiful floor on an uneven surface. This is solved with the help of plates on wood based or plywood.

Increase the bearing capacity of the floor.

A high-quality and reliable base will allow you to use any floor coverings without regard to their strength.

There are several subfloor options. The main difference between them is the material. Gender can be a time-tested concrete screed. It is a good choice for high humidity environments. The concrete base is suitable for a bathroom in the house, a shower cabin or a bath.

If you need to prepare a flat base for linoleum, laminate or other material that is not very durable, it is enough to make a simple subfloor from plywood or OSB boards. It cannot boast of good thermal protection, therefore it is more suitable for non-residential premises.

Advice. The best choice for the residential part of the house is the draft floor wooden beams. This is a great option that is equally suitable for any room in a wooden house and not only.

Design features

At the heart of the floor on wooden logs are beams (). Are these bars made of wood or polymer materials, laid parallel to each other, which serve as a support for the sheet material. This is one of the most common options for creating a subfloor.

It is distinguished by:

sufficient ease of installation;
low cost of the material;
a significant increase in the strength of the floor;
uniform load distribution;
ease of installation of thermal insulation and noise protection.

It should be noted the versatility of this type of subfloor. Logs can be laid on the ground, wooden or concrete surfaces, of course, in all cases it is important to ensure maximum protection wood from moisture. The result of a properly performed work will be a dry ventilated underground, which will positively affect the characteristics of the floor and the structure as a whole.

Material selection

The reliability and durability of the floor directly depend on the quality of the material used. First of all, this applies to beams. For their manufacture, you will need a bar with a section of 50 x 50 mm or a board with a thickness of at least 50 mm, a width of 150 mm. The exact parameters are selected individually for each specific project.

An important detail of the floor on the logs are cranial bars - slats of small section (approximately 20 x 30 mm), which are attached to the beam along its length and serve to lay the material that supports thermal insulation. As such, OSB boards or plywood are most often used.

Timber and boards for draft floors must have sufficient strength and be resistant to decay. Structures are made from conifers tree. Beams can be from any available wood, the most common option is pine.

In addition to timber, you will need sheet material to create a substrate for flooring, roll waterproofing, an antiseptic for impregnating wood and a heat insulator (mineral wool).

Floor on joists

Any home craftsman can make a reliable and durable black floor in a wooden house with his own hands. This is not a very difficult task, but in order to achieve the desired result, you will have to work hard. The work itself can be divided into two major stages. The first is the preparation and fastening of the lag, the second is the cutting and laying of sheet material.

Fastening

The first thing to do before starting work is to sketch out a floor plan and calculate the amount of material. It is necessary to calculate the number of beams and multiply by the length. It is important to choose the right laying step. It is calculated individually and depends on the area of the room, the material to be used in the second stage, its thickness and mechanical strength.

Advice. The device of the subfloor with insulation has its own specifics. When choosing a lag step, it is worth stopping at its standard value, namely 55–58 cm. This is due to the fact that the width of a standard sheet of mineral wool is 60 cm.

Before starting installation, it is necessary to impregnate the beams with an antiseptic. Professionals recommend processing wood in two stages, which will provide maximum protection for wood, and therefore the durability of the structure as a whole. If the ends of the log will lie on the foundation, it is imperative to lay two layers of roofing material or a modern analogue between the wood and concrete.

To fix the beams to the wall, you will need metal holders. Several of their modifications are on sale, pick up best option for each specific case will not be difficult. Fasteners are easy to install, it guarantees high reliability of the floor and its durability.

When mounting the logs, it is important to ensure that their upper faces lie in the same plane. For control, you can use a long, even rail, to make sure the surface is horizontal, you will need building level. Correcting a slight misalignment is easy; you need to put an adjusting pad under the sagging beam. It should be made of metal or plastic (the wood will soon sag, causing the floors to creak).

Mounting

Using a screwdriver or an electric drill with a nozzle, cranial bars are screwed along the lower edge of the log. Their task is to support plywood or wood board, which will serve as a support for mineral wool. Sheet material is cut, focusing on the step of the beams. Instead of plates, you can use cutting boards.

Advice. When cutting sheets for laying in the space between the lags, one should not strive for perfect accuracy, on the contrary, it is better to cut blanks 1-2 cm narrower. This compensates for the possible curvature of the bars themselves, and it is easy to close the gaps with mounting foam.

The assembled frame is covered with a vapor barrier. Can be bought expensive roll material membrane type or limit yourself to cheap plastic wrap. In any case, the isolation must be reliable. The film is fixed with a construction stapler, the joints are glued with adhesive tape.

Lay the first layer of cotton wool. If a standard step is selected during the installation of the lag, there will be no problems. If necessary, the cotton wool is lightly tamped along the edges so that it fills the entire internal space. Next, lay the second layer. It is important to offset half or a third of the sheet.

The thickness of the insulation is chosen based on local climatic conditions. For the middle lane, 10 cm is enough, for the north of the country - at least 15 cm. Waterproofing is laid on top of the top layer. On the beams, it is additionally fixed with a stapler, the joints must be sealed with adhesive tape.

A rail 20–30 mm thick is stuffed over the log, it will provide good ventilation for the finished floor and protect it from mold. The warm draft floor is almost ready. It remains only to lay the finishing floor boards or sheet material, which will serve as the basis for carpet, linoleum, laminate.

In order for the new floor to fully meet expectations, it is necessary to initially decide on the purpose of the room and the type of flooring, it is on its parameters that the width and thickness of the beams, their step depends. For the most part, a subfloor using OSB or plywood is seen as optimal. The technology of working with the material is not particularly difficult, and the result is a smooth and reliable coating.

Working with sheet material is really simple, but in order to avoid mistakes, you should follow a few simple recommendations:

regardless of the purpose of the room, use only waterproof boards;
joints should pass along the lags;
sheets should not be laid end-to-end, but with gaps of 2–3 mm between them and at least 5 mm from the wall, subsequently the joints are filled with foam;
for fastening the plates, it is necessary to use wood screws, the length of which is at least one and a half times the thickness of the plate.

Do not try to save on material. It is important not to forget that the reliability of the product consists of the quality of parts and components plus good work. In order to make good rough floors in a wooden house, you need to soberly assess your strengths.

Yes, this is not the most difficult thing, but you definitely cannot do without the initial skills of a builder and the ability to work with the material. It may be worthwhile to involve a specialist in the work, at least not be afraid to ask for advice.

Floors in wooden houses should be reliable, warm, durable and beautiful. You can achieve the desired result on your own or with the involvement of professional builders. Information about the features of flooring in a wooden house is important in both cases. Firstly, because it will be required for independent work, and secondly, to control employees.

Process Features

The floors in a wooden house consist of several layers. And in order to ensure comfortable living conditions, it is important to correctly determine the components of the floor "pie".

main element building structure for the floor is strapping. For capital buildings, it is usually made from a powerful beam with parameters cross section not less than 150 x 80 millimeters.

Often the timber is replaced by several boards, securely interconnected. Board binding is more stable. The boards are not subjected to the stresses experienced by the timber.

Products used for strapping are subject to pre-treatment with an antiseptic. Used oils are often used as such. Oiled wooden details do not rot and do not absorb moisture, so they serve for many years. In the absence of oil, apply special means available at every hardware store.

To extend the life of the strapping, waterproofing must be laid on the foundation. Usually it is a roofing material folded in two layers.

By strapping, you need to install lags. These are wide powerful boards, which need to be strengthened on the edge. They, like the strapping, need to be treated with an antiseptic. Logs must first be carefully examined, cracks repaired if any. Boards with big flaws should be replaced with better ones.

In light buildings, it is allowed to make logs prefabricated. For fastening constituent parts use special staples or studs. Docking points should be supported for greater reliability.

If the load is planned to be significant, it is better to strengthen the structure in advance. For this, the lag section is calculated, and their step is made small, from 60 centimeters.

The logs are hemmed with boards, along which a membrane is laid to prevent the penetration of wind and moisture into the room. A heater is placed in the formed cells. Depending on the chosen method, it can be either expanded clay or polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. Further actions depends on the preferences of the owners of the house. Any available options can act as a finishing floor, including water-heated floors.

Structure structure

It is not enough to build a wooden house, you need to correctly bring engineering communications, such as:

heating;
water supply;
sewerage;
electrical wiring.

abundance engineering structures indoors does not look aesthetically pleasing, so it is customary to hide them under the floor. The space between the lags allows you to cover most of the pipes. If there is an underground or basement floor, under the subfloor, you can install electric water heater, and it is possible to equip a gas boiler room. Especially important is the location of the water heater under the floor for a small shower room.

When building a house, it is worth remembering that the wooden floor should be protected from water vapor. Modern building materials allow the structure to breathe and at the same time reliably protect against moisture damage. Excellent insulation is obtained from isospan.

Izospan is used both in the equipment of the first floor and the second. It is laid under the mineral insulation and above it. nonwoven fabric Supplied in small rolls. Separate parts during laying should be overlapped and glued with special double-sided tape. In places of contact with the lags, isospan is attached to them with a construction stapler.

The insulating layer is covered with a continuous flooring. Perhaps better than others, OSB plates are suitable for this purpose.

OSB boards are widely used in housing construction. They are perfect for arranging floors in wooden houses. Oriented strand board floors are good for underlayment under boardwalk, parquet, linoleum, carpet and laminate. But you should not do OSB with a finish coating.

For laying on logs set in 50 cm increments, 18 mm is considered a sufficient thickness of the plates. If the distance between adjacent lags is 10 cm greater, a greater thickness will be required - 20 mm. OSB boards are made by pressing with a special adhesive. They are durable, do not rot and do not dry out. Floors laid on OSB sheets, do not creak when walking.

Laying is done quickly, because:

does not require special skills;
the sheets have the correct geometric shape, and time is not spent on fitting;
one standard plate (2500 x 1250 mm) covers an area of 3.1 m2.

Floor types

In private wooden houses, the type of floor depends on the method of overlapping. There are two options: concrete (reinforced concrete slab) or wood. On the second floor, the floors are usually made of wood, since heavier reinforced concrete slabs only increase the load on the foundation.

Inside the house, you can equip any of modern options floors: laminate, parquet, cork, tiles and others.

Concrete the floors are formed by pouring the screed. In some cases, this option saves construction time. The screed is completely ready for further processing after a month. Raw wood requires drying, which takes much more time.

Concrete floors in wooden houses reduce the cost of finishing floors. A well-made screed can serve as the basis for finishing without additional layers and surface leveling.

If it is necessary to raise the floor to a certain height, light expanded clay is poured under the screed. This reduces the load on the base without increasing the thickness of the screed itself.

In a new house, there is a high probability of cracking of the cement screed due to shrinkage of the structure. Serious damage will not follow, however, heat loss is possible. You can prevent negative consequences by laying a reliable insulation.

Concrete flooring is possible after calculations. As a rule, such a decision is made if the capital structure has a strip foundation.

The same is more suitable for a wooden house wooden floor. Wood is environmentally friendly, does not cause allergic reactions in residents: adults and children. natural material increasingly used by owners country houses, preferring it to bricks and various blocks.

Plank flooring is easy to sheathe with boards on both sides. Reliable fastening allows you to equip a "pie" of insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The multilayer structure can be made as a floating floor. In this case, it will not have direct contact with the base and walls of the house.

Preparatory work

Regardless of whether a building is being erected on a foundation, earth, screw piles, or simply on brick columns, the arrangement of the floor begins with preparatory work.

First prepare the walls, equipping them with ventilation holes. The lack of air access to the underground will lead to the rapid destruction of the wooden components of the structure.

The materials necessary for arranging the overlap must be correctly calculated. It will not be superfluous and a stock of wood of 10-15 percent.

Installation can begin when the bars and boards are sufficiently dry. When the humidity becomes normal, the material is inspected, sorted and treated with agents against rot and fungus.

Draft two-layer floors are made where the base has to be laid directly on open ground.

There are several ways to lay the floor on the ground. If you lower the floor to a minimum, then you can tamp the ground, lay out a pillow of sand, gravel or expanded clay, and then fill it with concrete. True, this option is more suitable for a garage, and not for places intended for permanent residence of people.

In the lung country house used for a seasonal stay, you need to do the floor differently. First you need to set up brick columns around the entire perimeter. It is very important to ensure that the surfaces of the supports have a single height (bring them to one horizon). On each support you need to lay a gasket made of roofing material or roofing felt. A 3 cm thick wooden lining treated with an antiseptic should be placed on the waterproofing layer.

This whole structure is closed with bars, along which lags are set with constant horizontal adjustment. The design is finally fixed with fasteners. The floor is located on the logs if the manufacture is carried out with a single flooring.

A double floor assumes the presence of laying insulation between the rough and finishing floor, hydro and vapor barrier, and, if necessary, other components.

Laying methods

Rooms in a wooden house will take on a presentable look, and staying in them will become truly comfortable if the flooring is in harmony with the walls. Homogeneous material will make the interior of the room complete.

The choice of type of wood for the floor depends on:

material opportunities;
purpose of the premises;
planned loads.

With an unlimited budget, they choose the most beautiful, durable and dense materials from foreign countries. Exotic trees growing in tropical forests have unique properties. They withstand strong moisture, are easy to process, resistant to abrasion. In addition, boards from such trees are distinguished by beautiful colors. For example, merbau wood can be golden orange or reddish brown. A purple floor can be made using rosewood. And striped flooring is obtained when buying very expensive zebrano wood.

Boards made of coniferous trees, including pine and spruce, will not require large expenses. From such floors, the room is filled with substances useful for humans and a pleasant aroma. The wood always remains warm, so it is pleasant to walk on the floor with bare feet.

For showers, baths and saunas, aspen and lime boards are required. They do not emit resin, are resistant to water and high temperatures.

On a veranda open to precipitation, the floor is best made of corrugated oak or larch boards.

The thickness of the floorboards must be chosen taking into account the distance between adjacent lags. With a distance of 600 - 700 mm, a thickness of 40 mm is sufficient. If the spans are larger than the specified size, boards with a thickness of 50 mm should be preferred. As for the width, it is set design project or host preferences.

If you decide to do the flooring with your own hands, remember that it is inconvenient to lay wide boards alone. In addition, the larger the canvas, the greater its shrinkage. The results of this inevitable process can affect the quality of the wood flooring. For this reason, it is better to take narrow and not too long boards.

One way to install the floor is to lay it apart, with this method, the joints of the ends of the boards should not coincide in adjacent rows.

If plywood is used as the base, parquet boards are glued with mastic or glue and additionally fixed with self-tapping screws, as is the case with massive board. It is necessary to glue over the entire area, without voids.

In addition to the traditional straight styling, they use a diagonal one. Laying at an angle of 45 ° to the wall looks especially elegant in a spacious room.

Arranging the floor requires thorough preparation, quite a lot of time and physical effort. Despite this, many believe that it is possible self-installation without the involvement of specialists and additional costs. Indeed, by being persistent, following a step-by-step guide, you can do without outside help and save a lot of money.

If it is necessary to re-lay the floor, the worn top coat is removed, the condition of the substrate is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Logs that have flaws must be replaced, as well as other components of the base affected by rot or fungus. During overhaul floors change wet or caked insulation, as well as insulation.

If the logs are in good condition, but begin to sag, you need to put a lining under them, for example, from plywood smeared with parquet glue.

Instead of expensive membrane films, glassine can be used as a moisture barrier.

When laying under the finish coating is done with a sheet building material(Fibreboard, OSB, plywood), it is attached to the base with self-tapping screws. Fastening points should be located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet with a step of about 150 mm. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be recessed into the body by 3 mm. The resulting recesses should be puttied. Without putty, the finish at the attachment points will undergo negative impact. And after some time, traces of poor-quality work will appear on it.

Draft floors have several types according to their purpose and method of installation. First, you should consider their features and differences, and then talk in detail about the method of construction. As always, with an example, we will consider the most difficult option, if it becomes clear, then it will be much easier to make subfloors simpler.

According to the lags. Most often used as a base for finishing floor coverings with low load-bearing performance: laminate floors, linoleum, parquet board or block parquet. Draft floors in these cases perceive loads and evenly distribute them over the floor area. Sometimes such floors are called the base, this name is used by inexperienced builders, but it has the right to life.
Under the lags. In the lower part of the lag, cranial bars are fixed, they serve as the basis for attaching the subfloor, insulation, and vapor and waterproofing.
On load-bearing beams. In our opinion, the most good option, but it needs to be thought through at the design stage wooden house. Why do we think so?
The distance between the floor beams is ≈ 1–1.2 meters, specific values \u200b\u200band thickness values are calculated depending on the load. Then logs are placed on the floor beams with a distance of 40–60 cm. Why do double work, it is much more expedient to install floor beams a little more often, while reducing their size. The same beams will perform the function of the lag. What will be the result? Significant material savings.
If we calculate the amount of timber for beams and logs in the traditional construction option, then the second option makes it possible to achieve savings of at least 40%. At modern prices for natural high-quality (and for these works only the highest quality sawn timber is used) in the money transfer, the savings amount to significant amounts. Another definite plus is the increase in height interior spaces, with a lag height within ten centimeters, this is a noticeable increase.

Any low-quality materials can be used for the subfloor, unless it serves as the basis for the installation of finishing floor coverings. It can be either pieces of boards, OSB sheets, plywood or chipboard, or unedged boards. The thickness of the materials does not matter; boards or slabs with a thickness of one to three centimeters can be used on the same floor. It will be laid on thermal insulation materials, for them, slight differences in the height of the base are not critical. Of course, unedged boards should definitely be sanded, wood pests breed under the bark.

Second important point for all subfloors - protection against negative impact moisture. Currently, there are quite effective antiseptics in the implementation, with which you need to soak the boards at least twice.

Important. Before impregnation, lumber must be dried. The lower the relative humidity, the more they will absorb antiseptics, the more reliable the protection.

No antiseptic - not a problem. Just oil the boards, the effect will be exactly the same. Handle the ends of the boards for the subfloor with particular care. An inattentive attitude to the ends is one of the main mistakes of inexperienced builders. They first lay the cut boards on the supporting elements, and then they process two surfaces with a brush, they forget about the ends. The ends of the wood absorb the most a large number of moisture, in this place all capillaries of wood are open.

And the last. Keep in mind that no antiseptics will help if the underground of a wooden house does not have an effective natural ventilation. The draft floor will sooner or later lose its original properties. You will have to change not only it, but the entire floor covering.

If you are afraid of penetration through the vents of rodents, put metal bars on them. If it seems to you that in winter the floor in the rooms on the first floor is very cold due to the air (and this can be), then on cold period time to close them. But be sure to open all the vents with warming. Ventilation, by the way, is a prerequisite for the durability of the lower rims of the log house.

Practical advice. Use smoke or a lighter to check the effectiveness of the products. Bring an open fire to the holes and observe how and with what force the flame reacts to air currents. Weak air movement - take immediate action to improve ventilation efficiency.

How to make a draft floor in a wooden house

Let's consider one of the most difficult options - the device of draft floors along logs without floor beams. This gender is often found in small rooms a private house or in cases of features of the log construction technology, when floor beams were not used.

Important. Be sure to soak all lumber twice with an antiseptic, before that dry them well.

Step 1. Markup. Make a zero mark along the perimeter of the room using a water or laser level. This will be the level of the finished floor. From this mark, you need to minus the thickness of the finish coating and the lag. Make a second mark, at this level there should be supports under the logs. They can be made from concrete, blocks or bricks. There must be concrete in the ground, only the above-ground part is allowed to be laid out with bricks.

Step 2 Make supports in any way, the distance between them should take into account the linear parameters of the log and the total load on the floor.

Step 3. Put all the logs under the rope, do not forget to isolate them with two layers of roofing material.

Practical advice. If possible, then at the bottom of the log along the entire length, nail long boards, in width they should exceed the width of the log by 6–8 cm. A subfloor will be laid on these ledges. It is much faster and easier to do this than later, in an uncomfortable position and cramped conditions, to fix cranial bars on both sides of the lag. Of course, the thickness of the boards should be taken into account when marking the position of the support posts.

Step 4. Fasten the legs. To do this, you can use metal corners and fix them to the walls of the log house.

Do not forget to make a gap of about 1-2 cm between the walls and the ends of the lag, take metal corners with oblong slots to ensure free longitudinal sliding. Tighten the screws in such a way that the logs can move in the slots. For reliability, it is recommended to attach the logs with dowels through at least one column, the side of the corner fixed to the log must also be movable.

Step 5 Prepare material for the subfloor.

We have already mentioned that in our case all trimmings are suitable, you can partly lay with plywood or OSB, and partly with pieces of boards or unedged materials. It is desirable that the sheets of plywood and OSB are moisture resistant, if there are none, then soak them with drying oil or an antiseptic.

Step 6. Check the distance between the lags. If it is the same, then you can cut off all the blanks according to the standard length.

Practical advice. Much faster to work with a template. Cut one board to size, it should fit between the joists with a gap. With this template, walk along the entire length of the lag. The dimensions are correct - use this segment as a template when cutting the rest of the blanks. Remember that measurements should only be taken from the template, and not from cut fresh boards. If each time you use a new segment, then errors accumulate, and they will certainly be, and the last boards may differ significantly from the required dimensions.

Step 7 Lay the boards on the prepared shelves. We have already mentioned that it can be either wide boards nailed at the bottom of the lag, or cranial bars installed later on both sides. Do not try to make the subfloor solid, small gaps do not affect anything. In order to save materials, it is recommended to specifically leave a distance of 5–8 centimeters between individual boards. But this can only be done in cases where pressed mineral wool or foam boards are used as heaters.

Step 8. Steam and waterproofing. If you have extra money and time, then you can install hydro and vapor barrier in any case.

If you do not want to act thoughtlessly, then figure out why such protection is needed. Mineral wool has excellent heat saving performance, does not rot, does not contribute to the reproduction of microorganisms, including fungi. This is great, but it has two very significant drawbacks. The first is that with an increase in relative humidity, the thermal conductivity increases sharply. Water conducts heat well, there is no need to talk about any heat-shielding functions. Second, it takes a very long time to dry. This means that all adjacent wooden elements will constantly be in conditions high humidity. What is the result of such conditions need not be explained.

If you make insulation on the ground floor with mineral wool, then vapor barrier is required. It will not allow the penetration of moisture from the ground into the thermal insulation. If foam-based materials are used as thermal insulation, then such vapor barrier is unnecessary, these materials do not absorb water.

Now about waterproofing. In any case, the draft floor from below does not need to be laid with such materials; there are no “gushing” sources in the underground. But after thermal insulation has been laid on the subfloor, it is imperative to protect it from moisture penetration from the side of the finishing floor. This applies to all types of materials, mineral wool and foam. Waterproofing protects not only them from water, but also subfloor boards and logs.

Insulating layer over mineral wool

Draft floor for "soft" floor coverings

With its help, not only the loads are evenly distributed over the surface, but also the logs or concrete bases are leveled. Such floors are used for laminate, piece parquet and parquet board or linoleum. The materials used are plywood, OSB or fiberboard, all materials must be waterproof.

The screed must be even, the difference in height cannot exceed ± 2 mm.

There are two ways to lay the subfloor on the screed: on the slats or directly on the base. The first method is used in cases where the base has significant irregularities, it is required to lay under the floor network engineering or make additional insulation.

Leveling concrete with battens is much easier and faster than re-screeding with cement-sand mortars. Waterproofing is necessarily placed between the slats and the screed, the slats are leveled in height with various linings, fixed with dowels. The slabs of the subfloor are nailed with nails, the dimensions of the slabs must be adjusted to the distance between the slats. The side faces should be located in the middle of the rail, two plates are fixed on it at the same time. Make sure that four corners do not meet in one place, this position of the sheets can cause swelling of the finish flooring.

The second option for laying the subfloor along the screed is used on flat ground that do not require additional insulation. To achieve an ideal surface, the use of building glue is allowed. It is smeared with a comb under the slabs and eliminates even the slightest irregularities, the subfloor becomes a single monolith with a screed. Further, the floor device algorithm depends on the materials used.

The heads of the hardware must be completely recessed; for this, special or home-made finishers are used. If by subfloor it is planned to lay linoleum, then it is recommended to grind the entire surface with an electric machine.

Plywood floor putty

Remember to always leave a gap of 1-2 centimeters between the subfloor and the wall. To prevent bridges from appearing in these places, place pieces of any heat insulators in them.