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Dry screed under the parquet board. Step-by-step technology for laying parquet boards and parquet on a concrete screed. Finished parquet flooring

Laying parquet on the screed is carried out only with preliminary leveling of the base floor. If the unevenness of the base floor exceeds 2 cm, then a screed can be used to level the floor (cement-sand screed, semi-dry screed with fiber). If the unevenness of the floor is less than 2 cm, then self-leveling mixtures (self-leveling floor) are suitable for leveling. All these works are included in the repair of the apartment ().

Laying parquet on a screed - stages of work

After the screed has completely dried, you can start laying the parquet. Laying parquet on the screed takes place in the following steps:

  • Primer screed;
  • vapor barrier concrete pavement gender;
  • plywood laying;
  • parquet flooring;
  • Sanding parquet;
  • Priming and varnishing parquet.

Primer screed

Before priming, the surface of the screed must be vacuumed. Primer screed otherwise, the primer coating will finally dedust the surface of the screed and create the first layer of vapor barrier. The screed is primed with a roller, starting from the corner to the exit.

Vapor barrier of concrete pavement

Vapor barrier is protection of the parquet flooring from the ingress of moisture from the screed to the parquet. Concerning the vapor barrier before laying parquet, there are opposing opinions. I stick with the following:

Vapor barrier before laying parquet is required . Only for vapor barrier use a special vapor barrier film (e.g. Eurovent) or a special vapor barrier compound (e.g. Elastopaz and Elastomix)

Plywood flooring before laying parquet

Parquet must not be laid on a concrete floor. Under the parquet on the screed, you need to lay one layer of plywood with a thickness of 12-18 mm. In this case, the thickness of plywood must be at least 3/4 of the thickness of the parquet.

Plywood before laying must be sawn into squares from 45 × 45 cm to 75 × 75 cm. This is done for two reasons.. The first is to relieve physical stress in plywood sheets, which can cause skew of large sheets and subsequent skew of the parquet. The second one is the possibility of smaller focal repair of the parquet in case of its emergency swelling.

Plywood sheets are laid on a two-component adhesive, fixed with self-tapping screws on plastic dowels and pressed down with a load.

At the same time, plywood is laid with a “brick” offset and expansion joints 3-5 between sheets and 7-10 mm. Between the sheets and the wall. For artistic parquet, expansion joints between sheets should be minimal.

Note: To increase the sound insulation of the parquet floor, two layers of 2 mm cork coating (sound insulator) should be laid under the plywood layer.

Self-tapping screws for fastening plywood are wrapped with a slight depth. Such a deepening will not interfere with the next step: sanding the plywood.

Sanding plywood

The laid plywood needs to be sanded. This is done by grinders with medium and fine sandpaper.

After sanding the plywood, the surface must be dedusted with a vacuum cleaner and coated with a primer to improve the adhesion of the parquet adhesive to the plywood.

Before laying the parquet, the plywood should be kept on the floor for 3-5 days, for climatization with the room.

Parquet installation

The parquet is laid according to a pre-selected parquet pattern. Laying parquet is made on a special glue. Glue is applied to the floor with a spatula. The parquets are shot to the edge of the plywood along the edge of the plank. For this, a special pneumatic or mechanical tool is used.

Sanding parquet

Before polishing the parquet, you need to take a technological break of 5-7 days, depending on the humidity of the room. During this period, the parquet "settle down" and it can be sanded.

Parquet varnishing

To be made with a preliminary varnish primer. Lacquer coating is applied in several layers. Each layer of varnish, except for the last one, needs to be sanded. This removes the pile of wood from the parquet.

That's all! The laying of the parquet on the screed is completed. Walk on the beautiful floor.

Laying parquet on concrete screed carried out in several ways: with a plywood backing and without it. Before proceeding with the laying procedure, you should find out what are the differences between them, and in which case you cannot do without a plywood layer. If you follow the entire installation algorithm correctly, you will get a strong, stable and durable coating as a result.

What is the difference between parquet and parquet board?

Although the names are quite similar, parquet and parquet board are not the same thing. The only similarity between them is that both are made from natural wood. But they differ significantly from each other in their design:

  1. Parquet is made from solid wood, at the same time, not the most junk varieties are used. Thickness finished product fluctuates between 17-20 mm.
  2. parquet board- This is a three-layer material in which the lower and middle layers are made from the least valuable wood species. But to create the top layer, precious woods are used. The average thickness of the finished product is 14-15 mm, of which only 4-5 are valuable species, and therefore the cost of the material is lower compared to parquet.

There are also operational differences to be noted:

  1. Parquet sensitively reacts to any changes in the external environment. Therefore, in the room where the parquet is installed, it is necessary to regularly monitor the level of humidity, temperature regime. Direct contact with water should be completely excluded.
  2. Parquet is more maintainable than parquet board. It can be sanded and varnished several times, thanks to which it takes on its original appearance. In the case of a parquet board, such a maneuver can happen, but not more than twice. It all depends on the thickness of the decorative layer.
  3. Because the top layer parquet board too thin, it is quickly erased due to intense loads.
  4. The parquet board is practically not exacting to service. It can be washed with a wet cloth, but the parquet cannot.
  5. The process of laying parquet is more labor-intensive, unlike parquet boards, although parquet is easier to repair and restore.
  6. The parquet board does not require any work after laying, as it is already equipped with a decorative coating. Parquet, on the contrary, needs polishing, varnishing.
  7. The service life of parquet is 70 years or more, while the parquet board is completely worn out after 15-20 years.

Tools for the job

Laying parquet boards on a concrete floor should be carried out only after the base surface is completely cleaned from the old coating, oil stains, construction and household debris. The surface must be dust-free, carefully cleaned and treated with a primer.

Important: If you just poured a concrete screed, be sure to give it time to dry. If the thickness of the concrete base is up to 5 cm, then it will take 4 to 6 weeks to dry.

To assemble the parquet, you will need to use the following tools:

  • parquet hammer;
  • electric jigsaw or saw with small teeth;
  • sharp knife;
  • materials for marking (tape measure, cord, pencil);
  • level;
  • drills;
  • limiters and tamping bar;
  • spatula made of stainless material;
  • scraping apparatus;
  • construction vacuum cleaner;
  • flat and angle grinders.

In addition, you will need to use a waterproofing film, wood putty, adhesive primer, impregnation for concrete, special parquet varnish.

The choice of glue for parquet

The parquet board is laid on a concrete screed using special adhesives that differ in technical characteristics and composition:

  1. Dispersion adhesive. Environmentally friendly, there are no aggressive chemical compounds and odor. It contains water, therefore it is recommended to use it for laying parquet made of moisture-resistant wood species (larch or oak). This adhesive is not suitable for beech, maple, ash wood. It takes a long time to dry.
  2. Synthetic glue. It contains synthetic resins and rubber. It is strong, elastic and reliable, it is recommended as an adhesive for parquet. The glue cures in about 15 minutes. As in the first option, the adhesion rates are not high, which is why increased requirements are placed on the primer and screed.
  3. Two component adhesive. It has a high cost, it can be used for any coating. The hardener must be mixed with the adhesive before use. In liquid form, it releases chemical harmful compounds. Therefore, it is extremely important to work within the means personal protection respiratory organs. After hardening, the adhesive is converted into a solid inelastic material, due to which its scope is somewhat narrowed.
  4. polymer glue. Such an adhesive has an average efficiency, hardens under the influence of moisture, which is contained in the air. It consists of MS-polymers, has the effect of sound insulation. Among the shortcomings, a long period of solidification and a sharp unpleasant odor should be noted.
  5. Single component polyurethane adhesive. Retains elasticity after curing. This adhesive can be used for both parquet and plywood. It does not allow moisture to pass through, prevents the possibility of swelling of the lamellae. Has high adhesion with many building materials, dries quickly, it can be used with any type of wood, regardless of how it reacts to high humidity.

Important: When choosing an adhesive, pay special attention to such specifications like minimal shrinkage, elasticity, long service life, minimal water.

Step-by-step technology for installing parquet on a finished screed

Before starting work, it is necessary to clean the room, clean it from household waste. The floor must be free of oil or paint stains. All should be prepared essential tool, materials, study the technology of laying a parquet board on a screed.

Foundation preparation

The concrete surface is almost never perfectly flat, dry and hard. In order to align it, experts use several methods:

  1. Screed with cement-sand mortar. It allows you to perfectly level all the differences, damage and defects. But after its application, it is necessary to interrupt all engineering works. Then the top layer of the screed is removed with a scraper or grinder and primed with a reinforcing compound. Substrate moisture should not exceed 6%. If you decide to install a "warm floor" system or simply insulate it, then all work related to this must be carried out at this stage.
  2. leveling mix, This is a rough self-leveling floor on a gypsum or cement-gypsum basis. The coating layer is usually 1-5 cm. It is recommended to dry it for about two weeks, everything will depend on the composition. Permissible humidity should not exceed 1.5%.
  3. Sandblasting, polishing. This method of leveling the surface is considered the fastest, but before starting it, it is necessary to close all the cracks with a quick-drying putty or fill the hollow pits with cement-sand mortar.

A waterproofing film is laid on the prepared base. The strips should be laid on the screed with an overlap of 15-20 cm, and the edges should be sealed with adhesive tape. Under the parquet there should not be substrates used for laminate or parquet board. In modern markets, you can find a self-adhesive rubber cord and mount it around the entire perimeter of the room. It serves as an excellent replacement for restrictive wedges when laying.

Laying floor material

Before laying a parquet board on a concrete floor, it is recommended to observe certain conditions. The air temperature should not go beyond 18-25°C, and the humidity in the room should not exceed 45-60%. Bring the parquet planks into the room a few days before installation. So the material acclimatizes faster. Like a regular floor board, the parquet is laid along the light streams coming from the side of the window.

If the parquet is mounted on steel brackets, it is necessary to drive fasteners to the reverse side of each plank so that half the length of the bracket remains free. The distance between the brackets should be about 15-40 cm. Lay the planks in a row, not forgetting to coat the ends with PVA glue. When installing the second row according to the technology, make sure that the free edge of the bracket enters the adjacent bar, thus forming a strong connection with the previous one. All other parquets must be fastened together in a similar way. The last row it is not necessary to fix it on staples, it should be glued to the penultimate one.

In the case of installation of stretch parquet, each plank must be drilled. Holes should be less than one centimeter in diameter. You need to start installing the slats from the center row. From it will go the rest of the canvas. When joining tiles, insert the tenon into the groove offset by ¼ or ½ length. Make sure that the holes in the body of the parquet match. Cut off the protruding parts.

After the floor is assembled, it is necessary to stretch the fixing plastic elastic cords from wall to wall. With the help of them it will be possible to easily compensate for changes floor covering due to climatic features. One side of the string is fixed with a plug. The other end of the cord is stretched and also secured with a plug.

A concrete screed is the basis of the floor, on which there will subsequently be a finishing floor (parquet or parquet board, linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc.). For the manufacture of a concrete screed, a mortar is used, which, after drying, turns into a very reliable foundation for the floor.

Before considering all the subtleties of floor screed technology, we should dwell on what exactly it is. So, the screed is called special blend, which, when frozen, becomes a solid surface of a given strength, and its purpose is to level the upper plane of the floors.

What are the screeds?

Distinguish dry and wet. The principle is simple - dry is used as the main filler, on top of which sheet material is fixed.

Wet screed is a mixture of sand and cement in the required proportions. In other words, we are talking about the most common concrete mix, here, actually, and all cunning. Manufacturers claim that special secret additives are added to the screed to form a more durable surface.

On sale there are also dry mixes prepared in advance in the right proportions, including especially miraculous self-leveling compounds.

Types of "wet" screeds

The floor screed device as a whole can be divided into four main varieties, based on the type of surface, the characteristics of its preparation and the formation of the final screed layer:

Knitted screed. It is considered the most common option for apartments where screeds are made on top of floor slabs.

With a layer of waterproofing. Such a screed is needed either in the kitchen, because in these rooms there is always high humidity, and there is also a chance that there will be a large amount of water on the floor. In this case, the screed layer is formed on top of the laid waterproofing material.


Screed with waterproofing

With a layer of thermal insulation. This layer is needed by default when laying the screed on the ground. If necessary, it can be used in houses and apartments in order to protect from the basement or other premises that are not heated.

Screed with thermal insulation

With final filling. After completing the main screed, in this case, a thin layer is used, which on its own will provide you with a perfectly flat surface, which is necessary, in particular, for leveling the floor under linoleum or, materials that are sensitive to any irregularities, even minor ones. also formed with the help of a more liquid solution, which itself will be distributed over the entire surface under the force of gravity.

What are the secrets of technology?

The most important thing for laying a concrete floor screed is that the surface must be perfectly clean and dry. It is worth noting that this is often quite difficult to achieve, since you have to deal with pits of bizarre shapes, protruding reinforcement and traces of stirring. cement mortar. However, it is important to understand: it is simply necessary to clean the surface.


Surface primer required

The second prerequisite for a high-quality floor screed is the application of a special primer to the floor. This is done in order to:

  • provide the floor surface with a water-repellent effect, which is given by special primers. When applied, such a primer forms a continuous thin film, and it does not need an additional layer of waterproofing;
  • to ensure better wettability and contact of surfaces, that is, to achieve maximum setting of the screed with the surface.


Primer application

The third principle of floor screed technology is the expectation of final drying. This will take at least 45 days. If you hurry and don't give wet screed dry well, then, for example, the parquet floor will subsequently become unusable very quickly.

And finally final stage- direct laying of the floor covering. This may be, depending on the design of the structure, a flooring made of synthetic material or plywood. If it is, then laying is carried out on special adhesives, mixtures and mastics directly on the screed.

Screed technology

Needless to say, it scares a lot of people. However, in itself it is quite simple. The most difficult thing in this matter is the calculation of the required volume of a mixture of sand and cement. In addition, it is necessary to correctly install the beacons so that the surface is flat. In some construction teams, this operation is carried out by auxiliary workers, since kneading the solution, pouring it on the floor and then leveling the floor according to the installed beacons is not a very difficult task. And you can learn and do it yourself.


Surface waterproofing

So, first you need to assess the condition of the surface on which it is planned to lay the solution. If your old screed is in good condition, then it is better to lay a self-leveling floor on it, but if it is cracked and crumbles, then it should be eliminated. If the floor is poured in the basement, then you need to remove the top layer of soil by about 20 millimeters, create a sand cushion and then compact it.


Determine the level of the top of the screed

Once the foundation has been brought to a perfect foundation, the highest point of the floor should be determined. It is more convenient to do this with a water level, and better with a laser level. But what if the level difference in different rooms reaches, for example, 80 millimeters? Is it necessary to bring the surface to the same level in the entire apartment? Of course, this is competent and professional, but on the other hand, the result will be an overrun of the material. The lowest places in this case are possible. If the levels differ insignificantly, they are easily hidden with the help of decorative thresholds.


We fix the guide beacons

When installed at various levels, “zero” is set to the usual level, and beacons are set from this point. They are guides that are designed to level the floor at the same level. They can be made of wood yourself or purchase special guides. It will be even more convenient, since it is quite difficult to find a completely even wooden beam. Beacons are available in 6 or 10 mm height.


Beacons set

Working with beacons

  • several beacons are set to a width slightly smaller than the width of the rule, which will later level the surface;
  • with the help of the level, the same height is set for all beacons. For this, linings of bricks and tiles are laid under them, placing them at a distance of approximately 270 millimeters from each other;
  • the lighthouse is fixed on the site using the same solution that fills the floor.

The lighthouses are frozen - you can proceed to the floor screed. It is advisable to first prime the surface or moisten it with water - this will ensure better adhesion.

Important!
Pay attention to the joints - if there are cracks, they need to be repaired.

The floor mortar is usually made from cement and building sand. Keep the proportion 1:3. And keep in mind that the sand must be exactly building. For maximum mixing efficiency, use a construction mixer or a small concrete mixer. It is important to understand that the strength of the finished screed will directly depend on how uniform the mixture will be. In those places where the concentration of cement is higher, cracks always form, and where there is more sand, the screed crumbles.


Mixing the solution

We mixed the mixture and pour it into a bucket of water - take about 1.7 liters per 10 kilograms of dry mixture. And note that it is the mixture that needs to be poured into the water, and not vice versa. Next, the mixture is stirred for another five minutes, after which it should stand for another five minutes, and then mix quickly again. Your solution is ready.

Let's get to the process:

  • the mixture is kneaded and falls out near the wall, which is located opposite the entrance;
  • using a trowel, the mixture must be trimmed;
  • As a rule, the mixture is pulled together along the beacons. It is not necessary to pull it strictly towards you, it is even advisable to turn it slightly to the right and left.

While you are screeding, someone else should be preparing a new volume of mixture at this time.


Finished screed surface

After about a day, it will already be possible to walk on the finished screed. But inside she has not yet frozen enough to start finishing work. The surface of the screed sometimes needs to be moistened - this way you will ensure a uniform setting of the mortar.

If a screed thickness is more 5 centimeters, it is necessary to use a reinforcing mesh.

It is spread over the entire surface of the floor. There are also various plasticizing additives that can improve the setting of cement. Such solutions are poured into water before concrete is prepared.

In addition, the rate of solidification of the mixture can be increased by increasing the temperature in the room. Often used for this heat guns. But in no case should it be installed in a room in which work is still being carried out, since in this case the surface may crack, because it will different temperature at the installation site of the gun and the far corner of the room, therefore, the mixture will harden unevenly. Technology .

If you are careful to complete all construction works, follow the instructions and take into account all important nuances, especially with regard to the quality of the solution, you will get a reliable concrete floor screed that will not crack and will last a long time.

The parquet floor is beautiful, neat, flawless. Walking on it is a pleasure, but everything related to its styling causes completely different feelings. The prospect of filling the screed is especially frightening, because the parquet board requires ideal level ground. And if we take into account the fact that modern floor coverings have very high quality characteristics, then preparing the floor for parquet boards can be delayed indefinitely due to increased requirements for the base. About how to properly prepare the floor for laying parquet and parquet boards, what are the requirements for the base and what methods for leveling the floor are used by experts and will be discussed in this article.

The preparatory stage in any business is crucial. Parquet flooring is no exception.

Leveling the base with a concrete screed

In general, the process of leveling the base with a concrete screed consists of several stages:

  1. setting zero level
  2. displaying lighthouses
  3. pouring screed
  4. leveling the base

However, even such painstaking work will not be enough if you decide to decorate your house with a parquet board. A concrete screed allows you to only partially level out the main elevation differences that are on this stage can be from 1 to 7 cm. That is why the next step on the way to the ideal floor will be pouring a self-leveling mixture. Whether it will be concrete or any other mixture is not important, the main thing is to reduce the size of the drops to a minimum.

Leveling a concrete screed with a self-levelling compound is a great way to create an even surface.

After the top layer has dried, it is necessary to lay the sheets moisture resistant plywood, which will make the floor warmer and protect the parquet from moisture.

Of course, it is possible to lay parquet board directly on concrete, excluding pouring self-levelling compound and laying plywood from the list of works, but such slovenliness can lead to the sad consequences that you can see in council housing. In such apartments, the parquet is glued with mastic directly onto the concrete. As a result, after a year, the plates begin to loosen, creak and fall out of their nests.

Don't forget about waterproofing. Thus, you will get a four-layer base: concrete screed, betonite, waterproofing, moisture-resistant plywood.

Raised floors as an ideal basis for parquet boards

There are two options for raised floors:

  1. adjustable lug design
  2. adjustable plywood construction

In the first case, planed bars with threaded through holes are used for screwing bolts into them, which will later become a support for the log. These bolts can be adjusted in height, choosing the level that suits your apartment.

Due to the fact that the logs do not come into contact with the base of the concrete floor, the space under them is ventilated, creating comfortable conditions for long-term operation of the parquet. As a result of this leveling of the floor, everyone benefits: parquet flooring lasts longer, you live better, because the temperature inside the rooms and the temperature of the floor will have the same values.

Leveling the subfloor with raised floors along the joists is a quick and sure way to give the floor the desired characteristics.

In addition, raised floors adjustable lags have several other advantages:

  • they are easy to assemble - just unscrew or tighten the bolts
  • with them it is easy to change the height of the floor, creating interesting design solutions, for example, podiums for a bed or a dining area
  • with them, you can not be afraid of emergencies related to water, because if moisture gets under the floor, then the parquet will not suffer from this in any way
  • various communications can be carried out under the lags.

Second option is suitable for those apartments in which the ceiling height is low enough to mount raised floors in them on adjustable logs. The design on adjustable plywood eliminates the use of logs, which means that the maximum lifting height of the raised floor from the top of the base will be no more than 3 cm.

In this case, special plastic bushings are used, the threads of which are located inside. They are inserted into holes pre-drilled in plywood, and then plastic stand-up bolts are fixed in them. The plywood is rigidly fixed through the bolts on the base of the floor with metal dowels, and its alignment occurs due to the rotation of the bolts with a wrench.

With plywood, leveling the base is a fast process

When the first layer of plywood is completely laid and brought to perfection, you need to lay the second. Sheets of plywood of the second layer are laid apart from the first, in order to completely cover all joints. You need to fix plywood on self-tapping screws.

The benefits of raised floors:

  • quick installation
  • no dirt or dust
  • saving money
  • high sound and heat insulating characteristics
  • Reliability - floors guaranteed for 50 years or more
  • Possibility to increase floor height
  • reducing the load on floors
  • significant extension of the service life of the finish coating

With a concrete screed, everything is more difficult: it does not take long to fill it, but it takes a long time to level it, and even longer to wait for it to dry. The terms of work on the installation of a parquet board in the case of leveling the base with a screed can shift by a whole month, because the concrete dries for at least 28 days.

Which of the ways of preparing the floor for parquet you choose is up to you, but remember that the parquet board loves when the base under it is perfectly even and perfectly smooth.

As with the installation of other types of flooring, two main requirements are put forward for the base, the first of which is the absence of bumps and depressions on the surface, i.e. the ideal plane, and the second is branded strength. All requirements for floor screed for parquet are described in the documents SNiP 3.04.01-87 "Insulating and finishing coatings" and VSN 9-94 "Instructions for installing floors in residential and public buildings."

The evenness of the base can be checked using a horizontal rail, at least two meters long. It must be placed on the floor base, while the gap between the rail and the screed should not exceed two millimeters, and the slope can be up to 0.2% of the entire floor area, but not more than 50 millimeters. Only such a screed can be used for laying any type of parquet, whether it be classic piece parquet, parquet or solid board.

If there are still irregularities on the floor screed, they must be eliminated. In cases where the height differences do not exceed 20 millimeters, they can be leveled with a grinder or self-leveling compounds, such as Vetonit 3000. If, on the basis, height differences of more than 10-20 millimeters are noticeable, then the screed will have to be refilled.

There is also a requirement for self-leveling mixtures, according to SNiP 2.03.13-88 "Floors", their compressive strength should not be less than 150 kilograms per square centimeter. In order for the strength of the manufactured screed to meet the standards, cement-sand mixtures of the M150 brand are used in the preparation of the solution. If you are going to glue the parquet directly to the base, then you need to make a stronger screed, for the preparation of which cement-sand mixtures of the M300 brand are used.

If the screed does not imply the passage of any communications in it, then its average thickness is about 40 millimeters. It should be borne in mind that even such a small screed will dry out for about months, at the rate of one week for every 10 millimeters of screed. If for some reason you cannot wait that long, then it is better to use a semi-dry screed. It will significantly reduce the time for complete drying, but at the same time significantly increase the cost of the material. This is the only way to shorten the time. For this, many craftsmen try to force-dry the screed with a building hair dryer, but this is not advisable, since the solution can become loose from air flows, and cracks can appear on the surface, which significantly reduces the quality of the base. But, even with the natural drying of the screed, rare cracks are not excluded, they will need to be repaired separately with a special solution.