Slots when laying solid boards. Laying a massive board in a floating way with a photo. Laying a massive board on a substrate and brackets

31.10.2019

A massive board is considered the most expensive, durable, environmentally friendly and durable option. floor covering. But in order for the floor to last as long as possible while maintaining all the technical and operational characteristics, the laying of a massive board must be carried out in compliance with the technology. There are several mounting options depending on the type of base on which the array is laid. We will tell you how to lay a massive board. In addition, you need to know which screws to use as fasteners. We will also describe several layout schemes that will help create a beautiful pattern of wooden flooring in the apartment.

Laying a massive board on a screed

Laying a massive board on a screed without plywood is made on an equal concrete base. To fix the dies on the base, a special glue is used. It is better to glue the boards with an adhesive that is resistant to temperature changes. This adhesive is suitable for underfloor heating.

Laying is done after preparing the base:

permissible humidity of the base - no more than 6 percent (to check, use a moisture meter or use a piece of plastic film, glue it with tape and check for condensation through knocks, it should not be);
all irregularities are eliminated (knocked down or puttied), the allowable height difference is no more than 2 mm for every two meters;
the screed is primed in several layers;
the laying of the board is carried out after the primer layer has dried.

Important! Immediately after purchase, the array is allowed to mature in the room where the laying will be done for about a week. During this time, the product adapts to the humidity and temperature of the room.

When laying a massive board on a screed, they begin to glue the elements in rows only after the dies in one row are laid out dry and adjusted to size. If the laying is done independently, then a wide, even spatula is used to apply the glue, and products with teeth are used to level it. The laying principle is similar to the installation of engineering and parquet flooring.

Laying solid board on plywood

In our climate, the technology of laying massive boards on a plywood base is more often used. This method involves the arrangement of additional waterproofing. Laying on plywood is done in the same way as described above, that is, with gluing the boards with glue. However, it is equally important to properly prepare the base:

Plywood 50 by 50 cm or 50 by 70 cm is suitable for the base (so the surface stress of the material will not accumulate in the sheet). Optimal Thickness- not less than 12 mm.
Sheets are laid with a joint offset in each subsequent row. A gap of 3 mm is left between the elements, and 15 mm are retreated from the walls to prevent floor deformation when the temperature and humidity in the room change.
For gluing plywood, polyurethane glue or mastic is used, which is applied in a thin layer over the length of the entire row.
After fixing to the glue, the sheets are additionally screwed with self-tapping screws to the base. Often, craftsmen have a question, with what screws to fasten plywood to wooden floor. It is not advisable to use expensive Spax self-tapping screws for these needs. Nails or ordinary self-tapping screws with dowels will do. For each square take 9 fasteners.
The moisture content of the plywood base should be no more than 10%.
After that, the floor is polished to get rid of small irregularities, and the installation sites of the fasteners are puttied.
Then proceed to laying the array. The massive board is being laid on the glue. The dies are fixed on a two-component adhesive composition, and every 30 cm they are additionally fixed with nails or self-tapping screws to the floor. Spax solid wood screws are ideal for this purpose.
The surface is then cleaned and sanded.

Mounting the board on the lags

Laying of massive parquet on logs is carried out during the reconstruction of the premises or, if it is necessary to level not level ground without dismantling the old base. Laying on logs is also carried out when arranging podiums, stages and height differences in residential and commercial premises.

Installation takes place in the following sequence:

Before arranging the log, the old floor is additionally insulated with polyethylene or penofol.
Two logs are laid out along opposite walls of the room and cords are pulled between them in increments of one and a half meters.
All subsequent elements are mounted along the stretched threads.
For better sound and heat insulation, the space between the bars is filled with insulation.
After that, the base of the lag is sewn up with fiberboard sheets.
Next, the array is laid in the same way as in the case of mounting on a plywood base.

Types of solid board fasteners

To fix the array to a wooden base, a construction stapler is often used. The brackets are driven into the lower protruding part of the groove. Usually fasteners are used for 12-16 mm. Staples are driven in along the entire length of the board in increments of 100 mm. At the same time, the brackets are first attached to the edges of the board, its evenness is checked and the rest of the fasteners are installed.

Important! Staples should not rise above the groove surface by more than 1 mm. Otherwise, they are finished off with a screwdriver with a narrow sting. Hammer blows on the screwdriver should be gentle so as not to split the groove.

It is best to use Spax solid wood screws. After installing the plate, it is pressed down with a load to protect it from displacement. At an angle to the floor (30-40 degrees), drill a hole in the groove of the board and the base. Install the self-tapping screw in the seat. To fix each board, three self-tapping screws are used: one in the central part and two indented from the edge by 20 cm.

Attention! Use a drill with a diameter of 2 mm. Drill the hole to a depth of 3 cm. In order not to drill too much, make a mark on the drill from an insulating tape.

Floating board laying

The floating laying method implies that the array will not be rigidly connected to the base, that is, the finish coating will, as it were, "float" on the base. This mounting method is suitable for underfloor heating as the surface will be able to withstand sudden temperature changes without warping.

Usually laying is done on a special substrate. The boards are fastened together with a lock connection, but are not fixed in addition to the draft base. For a strong connection of the elements to each other, special brackets are used. The advantages of this installation include the following:

quick and easy installation;
fixing the elements together with the help of special brackets increases the resistance of the floor to mechanical stress;
the method is environmentally friendly, since glue, primers, etc. are not used;
the possibility of local repair;
deformations are excluded.

Layout options

There are several options for array layout:

Traditional laying apart. In this case, the seam offset in each subsequent row is at least 25 cm. This method allows you to emphasize the natural beauty and naturalness of the coating.
Fitting option - brickwork. The end joint of the elements in each subsequent row falls in the middle of the element in the previous row.
Diagonal styling allows you to emphasize the geometry of the room, hide its flaws and visually expand the boundaries of space. The displacement of the seam can be chaotic (randomly) or according to the principle of brickwork.
Triple brickwork. With this layout option, the end seams of the elements in three adjacent rows coincide, and in the next three they are shifted by half the element.
herringbone made of elements of small length. In this case, the solid wood floor is very similar to parquet or parquet board.
Since you can find on sale decorative elements for products from the array, let's say herringbone with inserts. Usually use contrasting inserts of a square configuration.
Option weaving with inserts also resembles a parquet floor. Usually they adhere to a diagonal layout, having made an element of a square configuration from several parallel-laid floorboards. Around it place the same elements of floorboards laid in the opposite direction. A small discrepancy in size is compensated by inserts.
Brickwork with inserts looks more impressive than traditional brickwork. Contrasting color elements create an interesting pattern on the floor. Diagonal variant available.
Square laying implies the formation of elements of a square configuration from several parallel stacked dies. In the next square, the direction of the plates is changed. The pattern resembles a braid without inserts.
deck laying suitable for rooms small size. In this case, one long and short board is laid in one row. In the next row, they change places.
Cross stacking implies laying the dies parallel to each other in one row. The next row is a few boards laid traditional way in one row in the direction opposite to the previous one.

Laying solid boards - coating floor mounting, the elements of which differ significantly from parquet in their parameters. During the work, the process includes some features. Only a specialist with the skills and professionalism of a master can evenly and correctly lay out the floor with a board. All preparatory stages will be done from high precision and allowance for errors.

Characteristics of a quality board

A massive board has a saw cut at each end, which helps in locking the connection of two such elements. It is made by milling and makes it possible to tightly join two boards together using the tongue and groove method.

As the main material for flooring, the board has its own dimensions, quality and laying specifics. In terms of installation time, each linear (or square) meter will be sold much faster than parquet slabs.

Floor array dimensions:

in length - 0.6-3 m;
wide - 6-20 cm;
thickness - 15-22 mm.

From a parquet board, massive differs in length, thickness, width and even smoothness. Permissible roughness for wooden flooring according to the standard is 125 mm.

For both types of materials, thickness plays a key role in determining the degree of durability. The thicker the board, the longer the wood floor will last. The thinnest (0.7 cm) are great for scraping, and not for arranging a coating fortress.

Preparation for laying solid boards

To carry out high-quality work, the following conditions must be met:

The temperature in the room should be between +18 and +25 degrees Celsius.
Humidity indicators do not go beyond the range of 45-65 percent.
The space should be free, not blocked by tools or parts of building materials.
Immediately after the board is delivered to the place, it is not laid. You need to wait until it is aged for about two to three days.

The packed board should be opened exclusively by workers and before direct carrying out installation work. Before the arrival of specialists, you will need to first bring the surface to a clean state.

Base for laying solid board

The board must be laid out on a specific basis. It is impossible to carry out work if the floor is earthen in a private house, or consists of reinforced concrete floors in an apartment building. First, the base is made - a concrete screed. Then you can choose:

Lay the boards directly on the new (or old, but strong) screed.
Or cover everything with sheet plywood, and mount the floor from the board on top of it.
Or, use an existing, solid plank floor as a base surface.

In the presence of systems of "heat-insulated floors" the massive board is not used. During the heating process, the wood will dry out, crack, and the coating will quickly fail. In such cases, the laying of specialized piece parquet is used, if the customer wants to have a wooden floor covering.

Phased work

The algorithm of actions when laying a massive board:

Study of the surface on which the board will be laid.
If necessary, adjust the baseline.
Measurements and calculations (if necessary).
Application of waterproofing material.
Flooring of plywood sheets impregnated with resins and other moisture-resistant substances.
The first stage of grinding is preparatory.
Lined the boards.
The second stage of grinding is thorough, with the inclusion of sealant, putty.
Staining, toning, or varnishing.

It is possible to line a massive board, ennobled different coatings: oils, toning, or varnish. But working with such material will cost a little more. For example, a varnished board with an additive for glue (or self-tapping screws) can be laid for 1250 rubles per 1 sq.m. And when using wide elements (over 120 mm) - from 1450 rubles for 1 square meter.

Prices for preparing the base for laying

Screed grinding	150 rub. sq. m.
Mapping the evenness of the base	70 rub. sq. m.
Screed priming. Under mastic or glue	70 rub. sq. m.
The device of steam and waterproofing under plywood. Reinforced polyethylene and mastic.	150 rub. sq. m.
The device of steam and waterproofing under plywood. Two-component vapor-waterproofing primer in two layers	100 rub. sq. m.
Dismantling plywood or parquet without saving the material	170 rub. sq. m.
Dismantling of the parquet board and underlayment without saving the material	220 rub. sq. m.
Dismantling of the parquet board with the preservation of the material	350 rub. sq. m.
Dismantling of a massive board without saving material	310 rub. sq. m.
Offset plywood. Including dowels, screws and drills	250 rub. sq. m.
Cutting a sheet of plywood into four pieces (square 750/750 mm), including saw blades.	100 rub. sq. m.
Sawing a sheet of plywood into 64 pieces (square 190/190 mm), including saw blades.	700 rub. sq. m.
Sanding plywood (machine CO-206 + ELAN), including abrasive materials.	150 rub. sq. m.
Laying plywood on glue in small squares (190/190 mm)	450 rub. sq. m.
Strengthening plywood (by drilling)	150 rub. sq. m.

Price for laying parquet: turnkey and individual works

Laying parquet boards, laminate - floating	450 rub. sq. m.
Laying lacquered engineering / parquet boards on glue and self-tapping screws. Including self tapping screws.	1150 rub. sq. m.
Laying piece parquet with glue and nails. Deck, herringbone, squares	750 rub. sq. m.
Laying a massive board on glue and self-tapping screws. Including self-tapping screws	1050 rub. sq. m.
Lacquered parquet installation	1050 rub. sq. m.
Laying lacquered solid board on glue and self-tapping screws. Including self-tapping screws	1250 rub. sq. m.
Laying lacquered solid board on glue and self-tapping screws, with a width of more than 120 mm	1450 rub. sq. m.
Installing a cork sill when laying parquet	800 rub. sq. m.
Installing a cork sill when laying lacquered parquet + varnish protection	1400 rub. sq. m.

A massive board is a finishing floor covering made from a solid array of hardwood or conifers, in the sides of which the manufacturer provides grooves and ridges for tight docking with adjacent boards. Solid wood flooring is presentable appearance, perfectly retains heat, is resistant to stress, durable and environmentally friendly, it is easy to use and, if necessary, tolerates repeated scraping, grinding or polishing. If the laying of a massive board is carried out with strict observance of the instructions and the initial quality of the material complies with the technology standards, then a beautiful and durable floor from it will serve more than one generation.

The durability and high performance characteristics of the future floor made of natural wood are equally dependent on compliance with the laying instructions and on the initial quality of the solid board. In turn, the quality of a board from a solid array depends on such factors:

quality of raw materials;
equipment of the production line of the manufacturing plant;
modern technology drying.

Solid board: grooves and ridges are provided in the sides for a tight fit with adjacent boards

Quality wood for the manufacture of solid wood floor boards should not contain through holes, knots, mold or rot. The stability of linear dimensions depends on the modern technical equipment of the manufacturer and compliance with the drying technology. finished products. At modern woodworking enterprises, wood is dried under high pressures to the minimum moisture content, impregnate it with antiseptics to the full depth, and then artificially bring the humidity to optimal standard indicators.

At most enterprises, solid wood boards are sanded after drying and several layers of wear-resistant varnish are applied to the surface or coated with oils or wax, and the floors from such boards are ready for use right after laying. If the finishing processing of a natural solid wood floor board in the factory is not performed, then it is carried out at the final stage after laying.

A high-quality massive board must meet the following criteria:

humidity - 7-10%;
thickness - 15-30 mm, but can reach 50 mm;
width - 100-150 mm;
length - from 50 cm to 3 meters, it is also found up to 6 m;
permissible deviations of linear dimensions - no more than 0.5 mm.

The strength and basic mechanical characteristics of the future floor depend on the thickness of the massive board. More often than others, boards with a thickness of 20-25 mm are used, but the final choice depends on the type of base for the floor, the type of wood and the purpose of the room.

Types and preparation of substrates for laying

Solid wood floors can be laid in any premises: wooden and stone private houses, as well as in apartments of high-rise brick, panel or monolithic concrete houses. The basis for the floor can be:

reinforced concrete floor slabs;
load-bearing metal or wooden structures- lags;
supporting pillars of the first floor of a private house;
old wooden floors.

In all these cases, the same solid board laying technology is used, but the preparation of each type of base has its own distinctive features.

The concrete base, if required, is leveled with a cement-sand screed.

Important: it is recommended to lay solid wood floors on fresh concrete only 2.5-3 months after pouring. The degree of readiness of the base is checked by firmly pressing a small sheet of polyethylene to the surface. If no condensation has settled on the side of the film adjacent to the concrete after 48 hours, the subfloor is suitable for continued flooring work.

A vapor barrier layer of polyethylene foam or ground mastic is laid on a dry and even base. The polyethylene film can be overlapped or butted, gluing the panels with construction tape.

On top of the vapor barrier layer, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are laid, previously sawn along the smaller side into strips 40-60 cm wide. Fragments of the plywood base are laid diagonally or in a checkerboard pattern so that there is a gap of 2-3 mm between them, and a gap of about 10 cm remains between the outer sheet of plywood and the wall. Having laid the plywood base, it is firmly fixed to concrete using screws with dowels based on 15 attachment points per 1 sq.m. Screw heads are recessed to a depth of 3-4 mm.

A solid board no thicker than 25 mm can be laid on a concrete base

If ground mastic is used as a vapor barrier layer, the plywood base can be glued. To do this, the mastic is diluted with a solvent to the optimum consistency, applied to concrete, and prepared plywood sheets are glued to it, applying adhesive compatible with the mastic.

Important: on a plywood base laid on concrete, you can lay solid wood floors if its thickness does not exceed 25 mm.

Bearing base on logs

The bearing base on the logs is used when arranging the floor in new houses with a very uneven concrete base, floors on supporting pillars on the first floors private houses, and also in cases where it is planned to use solid wood boards with a thickness of more than 25 mm as a finishing coating. The arrangement of the supporting base on the logs is very popular, since the design does not require operations with water, subsequent drying and is mounted quite quickly.

Preparation of the bearing base on the logs: plywood flooring on the already arranged and leveled log structure

Logs are wooden rectangular bars, usually with a section of 50x55 mm and a length of 70-100 cm. They are fixed to a concrete or other base with screws with dowels perpendicular to the direction of the board of the future floor. The lag step, as a rule, is 25-30 cm, and the distance between adjacent attachment points to the base is at least 50 cm.

A layer is laid in the space between the lags mineral wool, which simultaneously performs the function of thermal insulation and noise protection, which is especially important for the first floors. A layer of vapor barrier material is laid on top of the log and fixed with a construction stapler, and finally a black floor of moisture-resistant plywood is laid - the basis for laying the board.

An existing wood floor can serve as a base for laying a solid board, if there is a strong confidence in its strength. Otherwise, it is better to dismantle it and create a new modern base. If there is no doubt, the old floor is polished with a grinder, installing a coarse sanding belt, thoroughly cleaned of dust and a waterproofing layer of ordinary or foamed polyethylene is laid.

The massive board in this case is laid in the same direction as the boards of the main floor. If a different direction of finish is expected, a layer of moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of approximately 12-15 mm is laid on top of the sanded existing base floor.

Before laying a massive board, the plywood base is sanded and dust is removed.

Thus, regardless of the design of the floor base, its finishing layer is waterproof plywood. Before laying the final solid flooring, the plywood rough floor is sanded with a grinder and dust is removed.

Installation methods: glue and glueless

A floor board made of solid natural wood is laid with an adhesive or adhesive-free method. With the use of glue, a board of precious wood is laid, which, as a rule, is thinner than common species, and its length rarely exceeds 2 m - the high price affects. The adhesive method of laying solid boards is also preferable when arranging the floor in rooms with a very large area or a complex irregular contour, as well as in very small areas, for example, in the area of door and arched openings.

A solid board of precious wood is laid on the glue, not very thick and not very long.

During adhesive laying, the floorboards of a solid board are glued to the base with special glue, tightly joined together in the transverse and longitudinal directions and attached to the base at the side joints with self-tapping screws at an angle of 45 °, sinking the hats to a depth of 3-5 mm.

The solid wood floor glued to the base is resistant to seasonal deformations, durable, it does not need expansion joints. At the same time, it is very capricious at temperatures and humidity above the permissible and is not at all suitable as a finishing floor covering in heating systems"warm floor". Finally, to replace even a small damaged area, it is necessary to completely dismantle the entire floor laid on the adhesive.

The more modern glue-free way of laying solid board is easy to perform and is always used when working with products equipped with a tongue and groove locking system.

On the eve of the start of flooring work, a massive board should be brought into the room, removed from the package, stacked and left for 3-5 days. This is necessary in order for the material to accept temperature and humidity. environment and subsequently did not deform during the operation of the floor.

Laying a massive board with your own hands will not create problems even for a non-professional

If the base for the floor is properly prepared and selected quality material, laying a massive board with your own hands will not create problems even for a non-professional. Manufacturers recommend laying solid wood boards at a relative humidity of no more than 60% and an air temperature of 10-30°C. Most often, a massive board is laid parallel to the direction of light from the illuminated window itself, but any other solutions are possible, for example, diagonally.

Laying the first row of floorboards begins along the longest wall, parallel to the axis of the floor, with a spike to the wall, level and fix with self-tapping screws so that they can be closed with a plinth. The side of the board opposite the wall is fixed to the base or joists by screwing the self-tapping screw into the groove at an angle of 45 °. Fixation to the base is carried out with wood screws, the length of which should be 2-2.5 times the thickness of the board.

Each floorboard must be fixed on all adjacent logs

Important: Each floorboard must be fixed on all the logs with which it comes into contact.

Each next row of boards is placed with a spike in the groove of the board of the previous row, not forgetting to fasten it to the base with self-tapping screws. For the most snug fit of the floorboards to each other, they are adjusted with the help of blocks. The last row of boards, like the first, is fixed to the base with self-tapping screws so that they can be hidden under the plinth. A temperature gap of 8-10 mm is left between the extreme rows of floorboards and walls.

Solid wood finish

If a solid board with a factory-applied finish was used for the floor, the floor can be used immediately after installation. In the case of using an untreated solid board, the newly laid floor should “settle” for about a week, then it is sanded and coated with two layers of varnish to prevent the wood from drying out or waterlogging.

Compulsory grinding is also subject to natural wood flooring, if the difference in the thickness of two adjacent boards exceeds the allowable 0.5 mm and is noticeable. The solid board is sanded along the fibers using an abrasive belt with a grain of 0.15 mm. If defects, dents, burrs appear on the surface of the floorboards during installation, they should be puttied, sanded and only then varnished.

After laying, the solid board floor is varnished or impregnated with oils and waxes.

Lovers of natural wooden floors can use special oil-wax compositions for wood coating instead of varnish. Products based on natural oils and wax, unlike varnishes, impregnate the solid board throughout its entire thickness, creating the thinnest protective film on the surface. Such a coating effectively accentuates the natural texture of wood, while protecting it from damage by insects, mold or fungi.

The practicality of a massive board as a floor covering has been proven by centuries of trouble-free service, it is beautiful, effective, respectable. Despite the venerable age of use, a solid wood board never goes out of fashion, lends itself to any type of processing, up to artificial aging, so popular with designers when creating interiors in the vintage style.

Massive board Ecopol is laid on any flat base that meets general requirements, including on the logs.

Choose the method of laying solid board Ecopol

The flooring of a traditional massive board is troublesome and costly. For its installation, you need to buy plywood, a primer, 2K glue for it and for an array. Pay for the work of the laying master. Responsibility is high, laying speed is low. Therefore, such work cannot be cheap. Yes, and it is impossible to lay such a board on a warm floor - it will crack, warp and peel off along with the leveler.

Ecopol board is a unique massive board. It can be installed in two main ways:

1. Modern floating method (on a substrate and staples). This is how parquet and laminate are laid.
2. In the traditional way (for plywood and glue). As well as piece parquet, modular parquet and engineered board.

To choose the Ecopol installation method, you need to decide on the main advantages and features of each.

1. Laying a massive board on a substrate and brackets.

The floating method of laying Ecopol solid board allows you to get a floor that is 100% environmentally friendly, because. 100% natural solid wood. This means that you get a perfect natural material for its entire thickness.

The surface of the board is covered with OSMO oil, which is so safe for health that children's toys, furniture and countertops in the kitchen are covered with it.

Elastic staples do not just connect the boards to each other, like locks do parquet boards and laminates. But they also work in compression and tension with fluctuations in humidity.

Staples are made of resilient hardened steel, not pine or MDF, so they are many times more reliable and durable. Such steel is called spring, crossbow or aviation, it does not know aging or fatigue.

Such a floor is like a durable wooden carpet that can be taken apart and put back together with little to no loss. Floating laying allows the boards to move with seasonal fluctuations in humidity (winter-summer). It is in motion, as if floating above the base. The base material is not particularly important. The looseness of the boards to the base, the gaps along the perimeter allow the floor to become a single whole, reacting to changes and loads due to a change in the gap.

Thanks to the unique staples and floating installation, board splitting is virtually non-existent, even on underfloor heating. Floating laying is the most economical, because plywood, glue, primer are not needed, and the laying work itself is cheaper than traditional laying.

In case of redevelopment, you do not have to buy the floor again, because Ecopol can produce the required number of boards of your design. Newly made boards will slightly differ in color from the old floor. But if you mix new ones with old ones, i.e. shift the parquet in the room, it will not be noticeable. Over time, the boards will become even in color and will not be noticeable at all.

Ecopol can even be transported with you to a new place of residence, because an oak massif over time only becomes stronger, harder and more stable.

This technique cannot be used in the case of gluing the array to plywood. In this case, the damaged boards can be carefully dismantled and new ones glued in. True, a new piece of the floor will stand out as a stain against the background of the main coating. It will also not work to shift or take away the glued floor with you.

Ecopol chose OSMO oil as the main finishing coat. On the one hand, such a floor must be monitored, periodically impregnated, saturating the wood with wax. But on the other hand, with regular care, such parquet will not need regrinding, which is accompanied by the removal of furniture, dust and the inability to use the premises for 3-4 days.

If the care of the floors is difficult, then order a PU-lacquer coating.

At the same time, there are a number of restrictions when laying solid Ekopol boards in a floating way. Since the flooring made of boards moves depending on the humidity of the air, becoming either larger or smaller, lay Ecopol in rooms wider than 7.5 m. recommended with additional thermal seam. It is recommended to separate rooms with unstable and uncontrolled humidity from each other with thresholds, which is inevitable with any floor covering with floating laying. It is recommended to install skirting boards with a floor overlap of 35 mm.

These requirements are precisely related to the fact that wood naturally expands with increasing air humidity and dries out when it decreases. If the humidity regime is not observed, then with significant shrinkage, filiform selective slits may appear. And with excessive moisture, the floor covering can rest against neighboring surfaces (walls, doors, pipes) and stand up as a "house". Fortunately, the processes of shrinkage and moisture in natural wood are reversible.

When the air humidity normalizes, the boards and the flooring as a whole take on their original appearance thanks to the floating flooring and compression staples.

Staples pull the boards together with a force of about 30-35 kg for each bracket. Therefore, such a floor gives many times more uniform shrinkage or expansion with changes in humidity compared to traditional laying on plywood and glue.

Ecopol offers beautiful, reliable and simple solutions along skirting boards and thresholds.

Massive board on a warm floor can be laid

Massive board Ecopol can be safely laid in a floating way on heated floors of any kind - water and electric. Such an array is friendly with warm floors. We have been doing this since 2010. But only on brackets on the substrate - without fastening to the base! Can't be used on underfloor heating.

Moreover, when laying Ecopol on a warm floor, several additional advantages arise at once:

a solid oak board conducts heat much better than pine or plywood due to its high density
there is no risk of detachment and deformation of the upper decorative veneer
no hazardous substances are released into the air and there is no danger of aging of the adhesive line
in case of problems with the heating system, Ekopol can be disassembled, the defect or breakdown repaired and reassembled without loss
savings on additional materials and work for the benefit of their own health

Water heated floor wooden house best suited for floating oak parquet, as the wood of the house will also react to changes in air humidity. For this reason, wooden parquet is less affected by moisture.

It is better to choose a coating for a massive board - Osmo oil. Due to its plasticity, it does not crack when the board dries out during the heating period.

An example of laying a massive board Ecopol on heat-distributing plates of a water-heated floor

2. Laying a massive board on plywood and glue.

If the installation of docking profiles and wide skirting boards is categorically unacceptable, then it is better to glue the massive board to the base. It is not recommended to glue a solid board directly onto the screed. Laying plywood under the parquet is required.

In this case, a massive board can be laid in rooms with a width of more than 7 m. without transitional thresholds. However, cork compensators still cannot be avoided. They should be at the junctions with adjacent coatings to compensate for wood movements. When laying a massive board on plywood and glue, narrower skirting boards can be installed that overlap a 10-15 mm thermal seam. Thus, it is possible to obtain a single solid wood floor covering without thresholds, decorated with narrow skirting boards.

Such a floor will not move as a whole, but by boards separately, because each board has a strictly defined place. With shrinkage, the boards will become smaller and, remaining in place, can form cracks. When waterlogged, on the contrary, they will become a "house". With the normalization of air humidity, the boards tend to return to their original form.

Thus, the "behavior" of the wood itself is the same - when the humidity decreases, the board dries out, when moistened, the board expands. When laying floating (on brackets), the entire floor moves, and when gluing, each board (floor element) separately.

The adhesive method is not recommended for underfloor heating. There are two main reasons. Firstly, such a floor will inevitably give visible large cracks due to the drying of the floor. Secondly, the glue line will age quickly, and with a sharp difference in humidity during winter-summer periods, it will break. As a result, the board will begin to peel off the screed and lead to the complete dismantling of the coating.

The method of laying a massive board is easy to choose by prioritizing.

If the main thing is environmental friendliness, profitability and full maintainability from updating the coating without regrinding to a new laying in a new place - choose floating laying on staples. If the main thing is narrow baseboards and the absence of sills - choose laying on plywood and glue.

Whatever method of laying a massive board, and any other floor covering you choose, it is necessary to observe the humidity regime. The requirements for solid boards, parquet and engineered boards, piece and modular parquet and laminate are the same - air humidity should be from 45 to 60%.

	ON STAPLES ON SUBSTRATE	ON PLYWOOD AND GLUE
Environmental friendliness	100% free of harmful substances and fumes	there are phenols, formaldehydes in plywood and adhesives
base	any even	increased requirements for the quality of the base
underfloor heating installation	YES	NO
disassemble and reassemble	YES	NO
replace a separate board, floor section	YES	YES
restoration, resurfacing	YES	YES
move to another place	YES	NO
adhesive seam aging	NO	YES
seasonal gap	NO	YES
works after a small leak	YES	YES
serves after flooding	YES	NO
thermal seams at the walls	10-15 mm	10-15 mm
thermal seams between rooms	recommended	recommended
non-threshold styling (maximum)	up to 7.5 m wide	up to 100 m2 area
plinth (floor width)	not less than 35 mm	not less than 18 mm
threshold	invoice 2-3 mm above the floor	cork, mastic in the level with the floor
laying speed (20 m2)	1 day	3 days
lay with your own hands	YES	NO
additional materials	540 r/m2	from 1350 r/m2
laying price in St. Petersburg	400 r/m2	from 900 r/m2

Photo instructions for laying on staples

Laying on a solid, even base in a floating way is carried out in accordance with the Technical Conditions for Ecopol.

The base must be dry (no more than 2% humidity) and even, the differences are not more than 2 mm on a two-meter rule. A screed or concrete base is best.

It is advisable to choose the direction of laying boards along the room, since significant wood shrinkage occurs only across the fibers. Leave gaps between the walls and the floor: when laying from March to August (conditionally summer without heating) 7-10 mm and gaps 10-15 mm from September to February (conditionally winter with heating).

To ensure that the board with which you finish laying is not already 3-4 cm, carry out a verification calculation.

When laying on logs, the distance between their axes should be no more than 40 cm. The end connections of the boards should lie on the logs or jumpers.

Use an underlay made of cross-linked polyethylene foam 2-3 mm thick, for example, Penolon Premium PPE 7002, 9002. It is absolutely impossible to use a cork underlay due to its high surface friction and low elasticity. Screw the self-tapping screw into the hole closest to the horizontal antennae of the clover. (Fig. 1)

a) the spring tongues of the “cleavers” are transferred to the mounting position (Fig. 1), after which they are screwed to the boards in increments of 30-35 cm. The extreme “cleavers” are installed no further than 20 cm from the ends of the boards;

b) the first row of boards is laid out along the wall on the substrate;

c) the row is leveled and wedges are installed in the gap between the board and the wall in increments of 30-35 cm;

d) lubricate the edge and end spikes with anti-creak sealant (Fig. 2);

e) the boards are tightly rallied along the edge and ends and leveled in a horizontal plane using a finisher, a hammer and flat pads, for example, strips of hardboard or plywood 3-10 mm thick;

f) now press the board above the clover until the tongues are released, which is indicated by characteristic clicks. (Fig. 2);

g) carefully control the snapping of the "cleavers" with your hands.

h) fasten the plinth fillet to the wall (Fig. 4)
The limitation on the width of the flooring is 7 m.p. for oak boards. Premises with a width of more than 7 r.m. should be separated by an additional technical gap. The rooms are separated from each other by an expansion joint (technological gap), which is subsequently covered by a plinth and a threshold.

Remember: a floating solid wood floor will certainly shrink and swell by about 1 cm per 1 meter of floor width, so observe the optimal mode of operation of the room: temperature 18-26 ° C and humidity 45-60%, put furniture legs on felt linings, restore in a timely manner coating, do not overload the floor.

Click on the photo - under each there is a description of the stages of laying Ecopol.

French run-up

If you experience difficulties in assembly, please seek advice.

Photo instructions for laying on logs.

Laying on logs Laying on logs

Laying on plywood

Ecopol massive board is specially designed for laying in a floating way on any even base, including heated bases. But it can also be laid in the traditional way on plywood with full gluing to the base. Keep in mind that by warm floors gluing a massive board is not recommended !!!

For flooring boards with full adhesion to the base, choose plywood with a thickness of 2/3 of the thickness of the flooring. If there are no communications at the base, then the plywood is glued to the base and additionally attached to a pair of self-tapping screws and dowels.

If communications lie at the base, then plywood is necessarily sawn into 6-8 parts and only glued. In this case, during the stabilization of the glue, it is necessary to additionally load the plywood. At the same time, priming of the base before plywood flooring is mandatory.

Before laying a massive board, plywood must be sanded and vacuumed.

If for the selected adhesive it is necessary to prime the surface, this must be done.

Only 2-component or 1-component polyurethane-based hybrid adhesives are used for gluing natural wood solids. No other types of glue can be used!!!

Those. the gap (thermal seams) between the wall and the boards should be from 10 to 15 mm (it is fixed with special wedges). A seam is also required where the board joins doors, heating pipes, etc. In rooms with a large area, the width of the expansion joint must be increased at the rate of - for 1 m of the width of the room, approximately 2 mm of the width of the structural joint. In this case, it is recommended to make the flooring separately in each room, leaving an expansion joint on the threshold lines, which is then covered with special thresholds. Flooring is best done along the line of natural light so that small differences in the height of the boards are invisible. Then the entire parquet flooring will look uniform and monolithic.

The glue is applied so that the seams between the plywood squares are completely glued; the board is glued to at least 80% of its area.

It is necessary to try to make the flooring in such a way that the glue does not get into the tenon-groove of the boards, because. due to its density, excessive gaps may form.

The flooring of the boards starts from the wall, with the ridge to the wall, towards itself - with a groove, so that fasteners (self-tapping screws, screws) can be driven into the groove. On a 1-bar, on average, 1-2 pieces of fasteners are consumed at the end, depending on the width, and 2 pieces along the length for each meter of length. If the fasteners are installed in the comb, then they are respectively laid with the comb towards themselves.

After applying the glue to the plywood, it is necessary to attach the board, press it firmly and fix it with fasteners.

The floor can be walked on 24-48 hours after the end of the flooring, depending on the humidity of the air and the curing time of the adhesive.

Floors can be used three days after completion of work.

When installing the boards, the master, no matter how hard he tries, inevitably touches the adhesive layer and stains the surface of the board. Excess glue or traces of glue that appear on the surface during laying must be immediately removed clean, first with a cleaner suitable for this glue and, above all, for coating, and then with a damp cloth. If the glue is not removed in time and it is completely dry, it cannot be mechanically cleaned off, because. the board surface will be damaged! In this case, try using an adhesive softener first (if the manufacturer has one) or replace the board.

After laying, possible small gaps caused by regulatory tolerances for the manufacture of products and deviation from the plane of the base can be treated with a special wood sealant based on acrylate to match the tone of the rock (silicone or other sealants cannot be used). Remove excess sealant immediately with a damp cloth. If the color of the wood is specific, then the already dried sealant is tinted with a felt-tip pen, which, having been absorbed, is not washed off during cleaning.

Then the doors are installed, the thresholds and skirting boards are installed.

Solid board laying. 5 foundation requirements

Evenness. The gap between the base and the control level should not exceed 2 mm. If necessary, sand the base, or level it with a putty or leveling compound. Differences can also be eliminated with plywood, which is mounted on the base and then sanded.
Strength. Strength characteristics reinforced concrete floor, screed or self-leveling floor must be at least 150 kg / cm² (15 MPa).
Humidity. Maximum allowable value for reinforced concrete panels: 4%; leveling screeds: 5%, wooden bases: 12%. It is unacceptable to measure the humidity of the screed made during the repair process in a calendar way, without the use of a hygrometer.
Stability. The maximum allowable subsidence of the base: 1.5 mm (under a load of 200 kg). To eliminate drawdowns in wooden base, fix it with self-tapping screws or lay one or, if necessary, two layers of plywood over the base.
Purity. The substrate must be free of dust, dirt, grease and loose particles. If there are layers of used primer, glue or bitumen on the substrate, they must be completely removed.

How to lay a massive board with glue using plywood: step by step instructions

This is the most common, but most importantly, the most reliable way solid board laying. You lay the floor not on the screed, but on the plywood layer between it. In fact, this eliminates most of the shortcomings of the base - its looseness, unevenness, etc. So.

Before starting installation, it is imperative to carry out a thorough quality check of the entire delivered batch of solid boards. Do not install defective or damaged planks. Claims to the quality of a massive board must be made before it is laid.

1. For residential premises, use birch as a subfloor moisture resistant plywood FC brand. The thickness of plywood should be at least 2/3 of the thickness of the board laid on it (minimum thickness - 10 mm). Before starting installation, cut the plywood sheets into at least four pieces. Ensure that there is a technological (expansion) gap between plywood sheets, as well as in areas where it adjoins walls or tiles (recommended gap size is 10–15 mm). Lay the plywood perpendicular to the direction of laying the solid board. Next, apply glue with a notched trowel to the base and attach the plywood on top, securing it to the base with a dowel-nail. After the glue has dried, sand the plywood so that its surface does not have deviations from the flatness of more than 2.0 mm.

2. Start laying the solid board from the solid wall of the room, from left to right, placing the first board with the edge groove against the wall. The boards are connected to each other with the help of “comb-groove” profile joints that do not require gluing together. Apply the glue with a notched trowel directly onto the plywood base. Be sure to fasten each plank to the plywood with self-tapping screws (3 x 35-45 mm), screwing them into the outer corner of the comb from a 45 angle and observing intervals of 25-30 cm. To avoid chips and cracks, a board made of extra hard wood must be pre-drilled in the fastener area.

Attention! For the most successful work, it is recommended to pre-lay the massive board without the use of glue. Unlike the "floating" method, the adhesive mounting method does not allow correcting "problem" areas after the glue dries.

3. Ensure a sufficient width of the technological gap between the perimeter of the laid boards and the wall (or tiles). The optimal and uniform gap size (10–15 mm) must be adjusted using wedges, which are subsequently removed.

4. Laying the second row, start with the piece left when cutting the board that was laid last in the first row. In this case, the distance between the end joints of adjacent rows of boards should not be less than 500 mm, for short boards (less than 1200 mm), the length of the overlap zone should be at least 300 mm.

5. If there is a gap or ledge between the boards to be joined, make sure that the groove of the board of the previous row is clean. To improve the joint, carefully rub the boards with profile joints against each other several times. If necessary, delicately bring the boards together using a mallet and a specialized tamping block.

6. Before cutting the boards in the areas where the heating pipes pass, take a sheet of paper (or cardboard) and attach it to the place where the pipes pass, marking the intended holes. Then put the template on the board and use it to mark the place for the holes on the board. Next, cut holes in the board, the diameter of which is 5-10 mm larger than the actual diameter of the pipes, and then saw the board into two halves so that the cut passes through the center of the holes. Next, mount the boards in the desired area. Hide the resulting technological gap along the radius of the pipes with a decorative ring of a suitable diameter.

7. During installation last row measure the required width of the last row at several points (taking into account the technological gap), mark the cutting line and cut the boards to the appropriate size. After laying the boards, tightly connect them, using, if necessary, a tamping block and a mounting bracket.

8. Close the technological gap along the walls with a plinth. At the junction with the tile, the gap should be closed with a threshold, or filled with a cork or a sealing elastic compound.
The basis for laying a massive board is most often a cement-sand screed or a wooden “black” floor laid on logs.

Laying parquet has its own specifics - especially if we are talking about massive board or engineered array. We recommend entrusting this work only to parquet masters. For example, you can order turnkey parquet laying from us - in the Mont Blanc Decor flooring salons - with a preliminary departure for measurement and further full "support" of the project! They not only know, but also love parquet :)