How is the insulation of a wooden floor in a private house. Thermal protection scheme or how the floor is insulated in a wooden house Draft floor insulation

07.11.2019

Floor insulation in wooden house: 15 better ways

The coldest surface of the house, of course, is the floor. This usually applies to the first least protected floor of the building, as well as isolated wooden houses. Why is the floor in a lower-rise apartment always cold? This is due to the fact that the air rushes down. Drafts are blowing from under the floor below. To minimize heat loss, the floor in the house has to be insulated.

This procedure is especially necessary in houses with classic eco-friendly wooden flooring. Even if you lay wood elements (boards) tightly to each other, they will dry out over time. From the crevices will certainly begin to see through. This will naturally lead to heat loss.

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house: the choice of material

The quality of thermal insulation of the flooring directly depends on the right choice of material. Today, the Russian construction market has a rich selection of heat insulators.

Penoplex, stone and mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and often used fiberglass are popular types of thermal insulation. Each of them has its pros and cons. Which one is better?

Fiberglass, stone and mineral wool - these materials have good thermal protection properties and excellent sound absorption. If you want to lay insulation in one layer, then use roll or mats. The latter are considered more elastic and durable material. the site advises laying insulation elements between the lags or under the rough flooring. Both options are acceptable.
Penoplex and expanded polystyrene can also be used. At the same time, they will please with a democratic price, high thermal insulation of the structure and durability. From these materials, thermal insulation is carried out by spraying. This is an efficient, fairly fast and economical method. This method is most often used in new homes.

Expanded polystyrene advantage:

minimal water absorption, and, accordingly, resistance to water;
excellent thermal insulation qualities;
form stability;
high strength material;
volume stability;
long service life;
biological resistance;
immunity to various microorganisms;
the material is environmentally friendly.

Advantages mineral wool:

the material is low in density;
the level of thermal conductivity is negligible;
long service life;
democratic price;
incombustibility;
environmentally friendly material;
high level of water repellency;
high chemical resistance.

All of the above materials meet environmental requirements:

The better the polystyrene foam, the more environmentally friendly it is. It must be dried well so that no volatile compounds remain in the material. Otherwise, at elevated temperatures, they can poison a person. Styrene can cause toxic hepatitis, rare leukemia, etc.
You can fit into the tight framework of ecology using fiberglass or mineral wool, provided that these materials use harmless resins. Phenol-formaldehyde resins, which are undesirable, can be identified by the brown or yellow tint of the material.

Durability of thermal insulation

Various qualities have to be taken into account when choosing a particular material. For example, with a certain load on the heat-protective layer, it will no longer be able to restore its original volume - some of the fibers will simply break. That is why such raw materials do not adhere tightly to the logs and floor beams. As a result, cold bridges are inevitably created on structures. Condensation can also appear where the thermal insulation does not fit snugly.

In order not to miscalculate with a choice and buy a heater good quality, press on a small piece of it (for example, step on it). If after such a test it takes its former shape, then it suits you. If it remains crumpled and flat, then it is best to refuse such a product.

Is it possible to improve thermal insulation qualities? When warming, you can not do with mats alone. Often used insulated finishes: heat-insulating linoleums, two-layer carpets .. Other materials can also not be neglected. The first floor can be made warmer by insulating the foundation. Basements should be carefully checked and all cracks sealed.

We warm the wooden floor along the logs

Most often, floor insulation in a wooden house is realized through the use of logs. It is quite simple to implement and yet very effective. In any case, you can eliminate significant heat losses. This method is especially relevant for the basement and first floor - where the floors are closest to the ground.

The technology goes like this:

Install on the base of the T-shaped log. Observe the step in meters.
Then fix the boards or shields on which to lay the insulation in the future. They must be fixed on a special type of cranial bars or hemmed from below.
Then lay the insulation on the flooring between the joists.
Next, you have to take care of the vapor and waterproofing. True, the need for this procedure arises only in individual cases. It all depends on the type of insulation. So, this procedure will be relevant if you use ecowool or mineral wool. Lay vapor barrier sheets overlapping fifteen centimeters. On the wall, its edges should “climb” about ten centimeters. For waterproofing, you can use both a simple plastic film and a special kind of material.
The final stage is installation and finishing flooring.

Important! You can also make thermal insulation of the floor along the logs, which are laid on even brick columns. Insulation plates must be laid between these posts (polystyrene, fiberglass, mineral wool). The insulation layer must be covered with a layer of vapor barrier on top.

The constant advantage of thermal insulation along the lags is the ease of work. At the same time, the method is very effective. The insulation does not experience mechanical load, therefore, any of the heat-insulating materials can be used.

What are the materials for floor insulation

Of course, choosing a heater is not easy. You can make the floor warmer different ways using different materials:

isolon;
polyurethane foam;
polystyrene;
penofol;
mineral, glass, stone, slag wool;
ecowool.

For this purpose, sawdust, polystyrene foam, expanded clay are perfect. The choice depends on the characteristics of the material, personal preferences and financial capabilities.

We warm the draft floor

The whole procedure is carried out according to the logs.

Fasten to the sides of the fixed log bars.
Fix the boards on them with screws or nails. The latter in length should correspond to the distance between the lags.
When an integral surface is formed, lay a vapor barrier on top: plastic film, glassine or some other material.
Next, lay the insulation between the lags.
Check that there are no gaps.
Next - another layer of vapor barrier. The draft floor is ready.

We warm the floor with sawdust

Sawdust is one of the commonplace types of insulation. Its main advantage is low cost and ease of filling. Insulation can penetrate even the most inaccessible places. It is also important to mention that this material is environmentally friendly. In the role of a heater, sawdust can be used not only in its pure form, but also mixed with building materials.

Pellets and sawdust pellets

This is a granular insulation made from a mixture of sawdust, glue based on carboxymethyl cellulose and a flame retardant antiseptic. Thanks to such components, the insulation is not only an excellent heat insulator, but also antiseptic, flame retardant.

sawdust concrete

It can be obtained by mixing sawdust (mainly with coniferous) with cement, sand and water. It is similar to slag concrete in terms of thermal conductivity. This is an environmentally friendly material that requires good waterproofing (because it contains sawdust).

Arbolit

Such a material can be obtained by mixing cement with the required chemical components and organic aggregates (wood chips). Usually plates are made from this material. They have good heat and sound insulation properties. This insulation is non-flammable, easy to process, durable.

Main disadvantage- "not indifferent" to moisture.

Of all the above materials, sawdust most often acts as a heater (without adding impurities).

We warm the floor with mineral wool

This is a very common, popular type of insulation. It can be slag, stone, glass. Absolute incombustibility is one of the main advantages. The advantages also include: chemical and biological resistance, thermal and noise protection properties.

It is necessary to mention the disadvantages: low vapor permeability and mechanical strength.

The material is hygroscopic, resulting in a decrease in thermal insulation properties. Pay close attention to the vapor barrier layer when installing mineral wool. Such material also cannot be called absolutely safe for human health.

It is sold in slabs and mats. The last form is made from hydrophobized mineral wool. The blue stripe marks the hard side of the slab. Please note that the marking must face up when laying. Among manufacturers Rockwool and Izovol are the most popular.

Based on mineral fibres. "Izovol" has low thermal conductivity. It has much more hydrophobic efficiency. In addition, it is chemically and biologically resistant, non-flammable.

Basalt mineral insulation is a Rockwool brand material:

resistant to mechanical stress;
during operation does not shrink and practically does not deform;
chemically and biologically resistant, non-combustible;
low thermal conductivity of the flooring;
well absorbs sounds due to the porous structure.
excellent sound deadening properties.

Insulation of floors with mineral slabs (video)

We warm the floor with penofol

A new type of thermal insulation material. It hasn't gained much popularity yet.

This is a multilayer material that comes in rolls and consists of a reflective layer (aluminum foil) and insulation (almost any insulation). For example, foamed polyethylene.

The classic version of this insulation is just polyethylene foam, which is fastened with foil. However, all requirements modern construction this option cannot be satisfied. That is why various types of penofol were invented.

Classic penofol has a higher density. It can withstand higher mechanical loads. Insulation can also be used as a hydro and vapor barrier. It will show itself perfectly in tandem with heaters of a different composition.

Penofol comes with two- and one-sided foiling.

Penofol-2000 became a progressive version of penofol. Foamed gas-filled polyethylene is used here as a basis. It costs less than its classic representative.

There is penofol and type "C" - self-adhesive. It is multi-layered: polyethylene foam, contact adhesive (moisture resistant) with release film, aluminum foil. Such a heater can be fixed on any (with a few exceptions) surface thanks to glue. Accordingly, it is very easy and fast to mount it.

The material is laid on the surface of the base. Sheets can be laid either end-to-end or overlapped. The joints must be glued with metallic tape. If you use penofol, then you do not need to perform hydro and vapor barrier. Everything will be provided by aluminum foil. We recommend that you read the material about.

We insulate the floor with foam

Also one of the leading types of insulation. Possesses:

low vapor permeability;
significant fire resistance;
high strength;
low thermal conductivity;
chemical and biological resistance;
does not mold;
unsuitable for rodents;
high operating layer.

The disadvantages include the fact that it absorbs moisture, losing some of its properties. When using such a heater, attention should be paid to hydro and vapor barrier.

For insulation, both foamed and extruded foam are suitable. The latter has a solid structure - a mass of closed cells filled with gas molecules.

Of course, insulation has both pros and cons. The advantages include hygroscopicity, low thermal conductivity, durability, fire safety. By cons - a harmful effect on the human body.

We warm the floor with ecowool

This heater is made from natural materials. It consists of 78-81% waste paper, the rest is natural additives - a mixture of cellulose fibers. The binder is the organic antiseptic lignin, as well as boric acid.

The main advantage of ecowool is safety for humans. The advantages also include:

fire safety (smoldering, not burning);
low thermal conductivity;
after drying, it restores the properties of thermal insulation.

The disadvantages include the high cost.

Ecowool can be applied to the surface in different ways:

manually. Slabs of cotton wool will need to be laid between the bars on shields or boards hemmed from below. The main thing is to lay the insulation tightly and process the joints with mounting foam;
with the help of special devices - mobile blowing machines. Under the influence of pressure, the insulation is supplied through the hose. There are two ways here: dry (ecowool is blown into the floor cavity) and wet (ecowool is applied to the walls).

Laying ecowool (video)

We insulate the floor with isolon

New generation heater. It is made from expanded polyethylene foam. Izolon was developed taking into account the new requirements for thermal insulation of the floor. Has a number of advantages:

small thickness - 2.1-10.0 cm. It is noteworthy that the level of thermal conductivity does not increase;
goes well with any material. Ideal for any gender;
does not absorb moisture;
does not rot, protects from the negative effects of moisture and steam;
high service life;
environmentally friendly material;
suitable for any room;
small thickness. This saves a lot of space.

We insulate the floor with polyurethane foam

This insulation (hard and soft) can be obtained from isocyanate and polyol components.

Cellular in structure polyurethane foam (bubbles are filled with gas and air), provides low thermal conductivity, has a low weight. For a number of properties, it is considered one of the the best materials for thermal insulation.

It is necessary to apply insulation to the surface by spraying. You will have to use special equipment. Polyurethane foam adheres perfectly to any material. A layer of vapor barrier is not needed.

PPU floor insulation (video)

double floors

An efficient heating solution. The subfloor is used as the first layer (unhewn boards that are attached to the beams). There shouldn't be any gaps.

Try to fit all the boards tightly together. Finishing flooring is mounted from above. Even a topcoat made of decorative materials will do.

Often, instead of a draft base, a variety of flooring is used: embossed or smooth coverings with a high level of thermal insulation.

Said material does not accumulate debris. Dust and motes can be removed from it with a vacuum cleaner or swept away. The coating must be glued to the floor with an adhesive. You need to glue in separate strips. Don't forget to glue the seams too.

We warm the floor of fiberboard

For floor insulation, standard DV plates are sometimes used. Such slabs can be placed under the roughing boards or under the finishing flooring (parquet, linoleum, carpet, etc.).

The main thing is to act carefully and do the installation in stages. Observe the alignment of the joints, avoid the formation of cracks.

The type of plates can be different:

PT-100;
M-20.

These options will not allow cold to enter the house. Fiberboard for insulation can be used in combination with other heat insulators. For example, with mineral wool.

Underfloor heating system

The mentioned system is especially relevant for floors based on cold cement screed, which need good heating.

The system will heat evenly floor surface. As a result - comfortable thermal conditions throughout the room. The level of humidity in the house will drop significantly. For the first floor of an eco-friendly wooden house water is especially relevant. You can get acquainted with the material about.

lay concrete slabs on the floor base or;
lay any kind of insulation. Its thickness should not be less than two centimeters and more than ten;
lay a reinforcing mesh;
attach the piping system to the grid with plastic clamps;
fill the floor with a cement-sand mixture;
use a backing if necessary;
install the finish coat.

You can find out about the device and installation technology.

We create an electric floor heating system

Installing it is much easier. Cable structures, safe film infrared elements are used here as heating.

The cable can, if necessary, be stretched on a metal mesh, which is previously needed. Film elements can be attached directly to the screed, insulated with some kind of heat insulator.

We invite you to find out by reading the relevant article on our website.

A variety of heaters can confuse buyers. We list some of the most common types of heat insulators:

Thermolife. This material is usually used for small loads on the heat-insulating layer. Most often, they insulate walls, roofs, interfloor space. Equally well applicable on planes of different inclination.
Ursa. A popular heater among specialists. Especially common in the decoration of horizontal surfaces. Advantages: good heat and sound insulation properties.
Insulate. Produced in China. Is issued in rolls. High quality at a low price. It will find application in various fields.

You can insulate the floor in many ways and independently. The choice is great. Dare!

In domestic climatic conditions, the need for insulation of residential buildings is beyond doubt. Owners of private houses have to solve this problem on their own. Wooden boards, from which in most cases the floors are made in suburban households, deform over time, and gaps appear in the initially tightly knocked down coating.

It is hard to imagine, but up to thirty percent of thermal energy can escape through these cracks in the cold season. As a result, heating costs rise sharply, the comfort of living in winter period. To prevent these consequences, it is necessary to insulate the floors with high quality.

The list of materials for floor insulation is quite wide.

Variants of wood floor insulation technologies

The procedure for thermal insulation of a wooden floor should be provided for at the stage of designing and building a house, and then it will be required minimum costs labor and financial resources. If it is necessary to perform this manipulation, when the overlap is already ready, the technology for performing work is much more complicated. In this case, it is possible to do the work correctly and insulate the floor from above, directly along the old coating, or with its partial dismantling. There is also an option to insulate the flooring from below from the basement side.

In this case, it is more convenient to insulate the floor from the basement side.

Thermal insulation of floors is made from above if the house has a low basement. If at the same time the flooring is dismantled, only logs are left. The procedure is very labor intensive. In the event that the basement is of sufficient depth, the laying of the insulating material can be done from below. This is much easier and faster, since in the process of doing the work you will not have to dismantle and disassemble the flooring if it is in good condition.

The better to insulate the floors in a private house

Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a private house is quite realistic. In this case, a variety of heat-insulating materials are used. Which one is better is determined after analyzing their performance characteristics and the specific conditions in which they will be operated. Insulated floor significantly increases the comfort of living in the house at low temperatures environment and reduces heating costs.

Ecowool - one of the options for insulation for wooden floors

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene are widely used, the use of glass wool and mineral wool has its own characteristics. The simplest and cheapest method of insulating the surface of a wooden floor is with expanded clay or using sawdust. The so-called dry screed has good performance characteristics.

Advantages and disadvantages of polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam

Many people know that it is possible to insulate the floor with foam. Expanded polystyrene for the floor is also popular with professional builders and home craftsmen. Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene, due to their excellent performance, are most widely used as insulating materials. Except for minor differences, they specifications comparable to each other. The use of these thermal insulation materials has the following advantages:

low cost;
low thermal conductivity;
small mass;
wide area of use;
long service life;
resistance to pathogenic microflora;
ease of installation.

Quite often, the floor is insulated with foam

In addition to the above advantages, these materials also have operational disadvantages. Their list is also quite impressive, the following negative qualities can be noted:

emit harmful substances when ignited;
prevent the passage of water vapor;
afraid of exposure to direct sunlight;
attractive to rodents;
are destroyed on contact with solvents;
have low mechanical strength.

Characteristics of "Dry screed" for floor insulation

The so-called "Dry screed", which is made from gypsum fiber, is great for thermal insulation of the wooden floor of a private house. The use of this composition implies the following positive aspects:

excellent thermal insulation;
fire safety;
ease of installation;
compatibility with all finishing coatings;
small thickness;
good sound absorption characteristics.

The process of laying a "dry screed" for floor insulation

At the same time, since we are insulating the floor with a dry mix of factory production, its high consumption should be taken into account: for processing one square meter surface requires twenty kilograms of the mixture. In addition, when water penetrates, the geometric dimensions of the dry screed change, which can lead to damage to the finish coating.

Possibility of using mineral wool

Mineral wool is widely used to provide thermal insulation for wooden floors. The material is made in the form of plates, which are easy to lay on the floor with your own hands.

Mineral wool is well suited for floor insulation

Mineral wool has many positive properties. The material is distinguished by excellent sound-absorbing and heat-insulating qualities, fire safety, prevents the reproduction of pathogenic microflora, and is resistant to aggressive chemical environments.

However, when water enters, deformation and partial loss of heat-insulating qualities occur. In addition, mineral wool has low mechanical strength and does not belong to environmentally friendly materials.

Features of the use of glass wool

Glass wool is similar in its characteristics to mineral wool. A feature of its use is that when performing work, you need to carefully ensure that it does not get into the organs of vision or on the skin.

Glass wool - a common option for insulating a wooden floor

Manufacturing process complicated by the need for the employee to use personal protective equipment. negative quality of this material is its significant shrinkage over time, as a result of which, if installed incorrectly, thermal insulation is violated.

Pros and cons of using expanded clay

Expanded clay is a clay-based foamed and fired granules of a porous structure. The big advantage of this material is its low cost, environmental friendliness, little weight and a long service life of about fifty years. Expanded clay has excellent soundproofing and insulating qualities. Thus, the thermal insulation of the surface of a wooden floor with expanded clay will not make a hole in the family budget.

Expanded clay floor insulation - simple and inexpensive

The disadvantage of its use can be considered the need to perform a layer of backfill that is significant in thickness, otherwise the wooden floors will remain cold, especially at sharply negative ambient temperatures. In addition, it absorbs moisture well, although it does not lose its insulating properties.

Sawdust is the cheapest material

The cheapest material in terms of cost is finely chopped sawdust. They do not pose any danger to human health, the technology for performing work is extremely simple: the space between the rough and finish flooring is filled with sawdust. Before use, this material must be thoroughly dried for at least twelve months, otherwise it will quickly become unusable. Cutting waste from freshly cut trees cannot be used immediately.

Apparently, sawdust is the most a budget option floor insulation

By increasing or decreasing the thickness of the layer, the level of thermal insulation is adjusted. In the northern regions with a very cold climate, a very thick layer has to be poured. It is necessary to take into account the attractiveness of this material for rodents and to repel them, add two parts of dry slaked lime to the composition. The disadvantage of sawdust is the occurrence of rotting processes in them when wet.

Modern choice - isolon and penofol

Undoubted operational advantages are the use of such modern materials like isolon and penofol. Izolon is a foamed polyethylene covered with a layer of foil and has excellent soundproofing qualities with a very small thickness. The material does not support combustion, prevents the development of pathogenic microflora and corrosion processes, a two-centimeter layer is comparable in soundproofing and heat-saving properties with masonry in one brick.

Fragments of laying penoizol for floor insulation

Penofol produced in the form of rolls consists of several layers of insulation, on top of which there is a reflective foil. It acts as a screen that prevents large losses of thermal energy.

When using penofol, it is not necessary to carry out additional work on waterproofing or arranging a vapor barrier layer.

The easiest way is laying a double floor

The easiest way to perform insulation is to provide for the laying of a double floor at the stage of building a house, which is a rough and finish coating. Such a system of insulation should be used in a room with high ceilings, as you have to take up useful space.

The construction technology provides for the laying of logs on which the subfloor will be strengthened. The coating can be made from wooden planks, chipboard, OSB or other similar materials, it is only important that the structural elements fit snugly together without creating gaps.

Arrangement of a double floor - a reliable option for insulation

Insulating material is laid on the surface of the subfloor between the guides. At the same time, sand should not be used as its quality at high natural humidity, since in this case condensation may form. A finishing coating of wooden boards about five centimeters thick is mounted on top of the insulation. The new coating will have to be painted, as described in the article

Of course, the old floor can also be insulated in the same way, however, the reduction in the relative height of the ceiling should be taken into account.

The most correct floor insulation - according to the logs

When building a new house or removing a floor covering, the most proper insulation floor - a method of performing work on lags. In this case, the insulation is placed between the logs, which serve as the basis for the finished floor. Depending on the design of the building, the basis for the installation of a log and insulation can be a subfloor made on its own logs, as well as concrete pavement or even soil. In the latter case, it is useful to equip a clay castle to protect it from moisture with a layer of about 5-10 cm.

Dense insulation can be held between the lags on ordinary nails

In the technology under consideration, the height of the lag and the distance between them must correspond to the height of the insulation and its width. Before installing the floor covering on top of the insulation, it is necessary to equip a vapor barrier layer of a waterproof film fixed on the logs. The joints of the film can be fixed with adhesive tape.

How to insulate floors with your own hands from below without removing the old floor

If a private house has a deep cold basement, the most correct way would be to insulate the floor from below without removing the old coating. This does not require choosing a material that can withstand the weight of heavy furniture and other mechanical loads. In this case, not only the finished surface will be protected, but the entire floor as a whole, and the dew point of the floor will shift outward, and the floor will not rot.

When performing such a task, some difficulties lie in rapid fatigue when working with constantly raised hands. There are also restrictions on the types of heat-insulating material and the need for its fastening with increased reliability.

Schematically, insulation from below is performed as follows:

first, a waterproofing layer is equipped;
then a heat insulator is located;
on top of it, insulation from water vapor;
then an overlap is performed to ensure the retention of the thermal insulation of the floor.

Styrofoam can be fixed from below with nails with spacers and mounting foam

Adhering to this technology when doing the work with your own hands, you can get the most comfortable temperature conditions in the living quarters of the house. The heat insulator should be of low weight, since it will exert a constant load on the fasteners, bulk materials are not suitable in this case.

Floor insulation in a wooden house from the inside with foam or glass wool

Insulation from the inside with foam or glass wool gives good results. These materials are lightweight and have excellent thermal insulation properties. First, waterproofing is fixed to the lower surface of the ceiling using a stapler. Next, you can lay the thermal insulation boards in such a way that they are held during installation due to frictional forces. To do this, their width should be slightly larger than the distance between the lags. When working with glass wool, be sure to use individual means respiratory, vision and skin protection.

Penoplex - a reliable insulation of a wooden floor

A vapor barrier film is applied over the insulation, which is attached to the logs with staples and a stapler. Further along the logs, a frame is mounted that holds the insulation. It can be made from any material that suits you. appearance and durability. Between the retaining elements, gaps are allowed through which the insulation is guaranteed not to fall out.

Step-by-step instructions for thermal insulation of a wooden floor with polyurethane foam

At present, thermal insulation of a wooden floor with polyurethane foam has become widespread. To perform this work, it is necessary to first prepare the base on which the ecowool will be applied, and spray the composition onto the lower surface of the floor. Step-by-step instruction as follows:

the coating is cleaned of contaminants and thoroughly degreased;
the base is dried to a moisture content of not more than five percent;
installation high pressure connected by hoses to containers with mixture components;
polyurethane foam spreads evenly over the floor surface;
the drying time of the coating occurs within two days from the moment of application.

It is quite possible to insulate wooden floors from below with polyurethane foam

High-pressure equipment used to spray polyurethane foam is very expensive. It is irrational to purchase it for arranging thermal insulation in a private house and it is better to rent this equipment.

Have you built or bought a wooden house in the hope that it will be warm and cozy, and see through from the underground? Do not be upset, in this article I will tell you in detail how to insulate the floor in a wooden house with my own hands and what materials it is better to use for floor insulation.

Options for arranging the floor in wooden houses

As far as I have come across, floor insulation in a wooden private house is almost always carried out according to one common technology - these are the so-called double floors. But the floor level itself can be low, that is, directly above the ground. And high, this is when you can climb into the underground. At the same time, the technology for arranging the structure changes slightly.

In addition, we must not forget about such a useful thing as the "Heat-insulated floor" technology. Many people think that it is relevant only for warming the concrete floor in a private house or city apartment. But I will prove the opposite to you, the modern "warm floor" can also be used for arranging wooden flooring.

How to insulate the floor directly above the ground

Naturally, the easiest way to work is when the house is just being built, where all the supporting structures are new, strong and reliable. It is more difficult if you bought a home on the secondary market, and the condition of the underground is unknown. We will start from a more problematic option, that is, from the insulation of old floors.

When you tear off the top finish coating, the first thing you need to pay attention to is the state of the bearing logs. Bearing logs are the base of the structure, and if they are rotten, then no floor insulation will help, the beams need to be urgently changed.

As a bearing log for the floor in a wooden house, any powerful or log can be used. Personally, I usually use a rectangular bar with a section of 100x200 mm, you can take thicker, but less is not desirable.

By the way, if you fasten 2 beams 100x100 mm with long self-tapping screws, then the bearing capacity of the beam will increase.

When replacing outdated beams, the beams are usually attached to the wall trim. For this, metal corners are used, but it is better to buy solid suspensions. Suspensions are actually the same corners, only welded or bent in the form of an inverted letter "P". They have 2 corners on the sides, and a supporting crossbar is located below;

When you figure out the lags, you can begin to mount the subfloor.

In general, so that you understand, I will briefly explain the structure of double floors:

Initially we have carriers wooden beams, called lags;
From below, a draft floor is sewn onto these beams, and a finishing floor is sewn from above. The space between them is filled with insulation. This "sandwich" is called "double floors";

Since the soil in this case is close to us, we have no way to crawl with some tool and normally nail the rough flooring from below, so we will do otherwise;
On the lower edge of the carrier beam on both sides, we will nail or screw solid bars with a section of 50x50 mm with self-tapping screws. We drive self-tapping screws with an interval of no more than 200 mm. Professionals call these borders the cranial beam, they will become the basis for laying the rough flooring;

We will collect the flooring itself from small boards. They are laid on the cranial beam perpendicular to the lags, so their length is equal to the distance between the lags. As a rule, this distance fluctuates around 50 - 70 cm;

Some masters advise nailing these boards to the cranial timber. But personally, I don't see the point in wasting nails. The planks have nowhere to go anyway, insulation will fall on top of them, and we have soil below. Therefore, my advice to you, just put them on the bars and that's it;

Now, on top of the subfloor with entry to the logs, you will need to lay a vapor barrier membrane. In this case, I recommend using a vapor barrier;
The fact is that our basement is scanty, which means that the ventilation there is poor. And if you cover waterproofing instead of vapor barrier, for example, polyethylene, then sooner or later the wood in a closed, humid space will begin to deteriorate, so you don’t impregnate it;

Now appeared new material called nanoisol. In appearance, it kind of resembles wax paper, but the manufacturers claim that it works like a vapor barrier membrane.

The strips of the vapor barrier membrane are covered with an overlap, approximately 150 - 200 mm. This overlap, according to the rules, is supposed to be glued with double-sided tape. But to tell you honestly, I think this is superfluous and I just fix the canvas on the base with a stapler at several points;
Next, according to the plan, we have a heater, but I will tell you about the intricacies of choosing a heater a little later. Now you need to remember that if mineral wool or some other "breathing" heat-insulating material is used as a heater;

Then, firstly, the distance from the thermal insulation to the finished floor must be at least 20 mm, such a gap is needed for ventilation. And secondly, another layer of vapor barrier is mounted on top of all this pie;

Theoretically, it is already possible to sew a finishing coating on the logs, this is often done when arranging concrete floors. But in a wooden house for a floorboard, thick plywood or other finishing coating, additional ventilation is needed;
Therefore, counter-battens are stuffed onto the vapor barrier from above. If our logs are 100 mm wide, then the bars must be taken 100 mm wide and at least 40 mm thick;

The counter-batten is necessary only to provide a ventilation gap between the finished floor and the vapor barrier membrane or insulation. If this ventilation gap is already there, then there is simply no point in stuffing the counter-batten.

Working with a high floor

When there is a place where to climb, whether it is a basement or just a roomy underground, warming a wooden floor along the logs is much more fun. And the quality of such insulation will be higher.

There is no longer any point in stuffing the cranial beam on the sides of the lag. In this case, it would be more reasonable to fill the same cranial beam with a section of 50x50 mm, but perpendicular to the bearing lags, again from below.

With this approach, firstly, the beam itself will need about half as much. And secondly, we have a whole 50 mm increase in space for laying insulation, which means that the floors can be made even warmer.

Usually, with this approach, the cranial beam is stuffed in increments of about 50 - 70 cm. But if there is no desire to spend money on a planed beam, then instead of it, you can sew an unedged board or even a slab from below.

There is one here important point: if it is planned to insulate the structure with bulk material, for example, expanded clay or vermiculite, then the subfloor must be solid. You should not hope that the vapor barrier membrane will hold the insulation, it is not intended for this.

But those who prefer slab heat-insulating material can stuff an unedged board from below with gaps up to 200 mm. Mineral wool or foam plastic will not fall into such cracks, plus there will still be a layer of vapor barrier.

After the cranial bar is stuffed, we need to sew up the gaps between the lags. Sewing up these gaps with a planed board is not profitable, plus we lose at least 20 mm of usable space.

In such cases I use OSB sheets, they are cut clearly to size and placed on top of the cranial bar. For these purposes, it is better to take OSB-3 or OSB-4, they are moisture resistant and will serve in the basement for quite some time.

The subsequent arrangement technology is similar to the option described above with a low subfloor. That is, we lay a vapor barrier, lay a heater on it, cover it with another layer of vapor barrier and sew the whole cake with a finishing coating.

I also want to say a few words about the finishing floor covering. I think that the best option for a capital wooden house is the good old floorboard, but this is my personal opinion. If you want to lay something from modern materials, for example, a laminate, then it is better to mount sheets of thick plywood on top.

According to the technology, it is supposed to lay 2 layers of plywood, each with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm. Moreover, the joints of the sheets in the layers should not coincide. But from my own experience I will say that I laid one layer of plywood 18 mm thick in the country and the floors stand perfectly, do not creak or sag.

Installing underfloor heating

Finally, the "warm floor" system has reached wooden houses. Many of our manufacturers, in particular Rusteplopol, are now successfully mounting such systems on any surface.

Of course, you can order turnkey work. But when I figured out the intricacies of technology, I felt sorry for paying someone money for such simple job. Naturally, the price of arrangement I have decreased by almost half.

It is no secret that wood itself has a low thermal conductivity and it is simply stupid to lay heating elements under wooden flooring.

We will not consider the option of installing thin electric ones, there is nothing special there, a foil isolon spreads, electric mats are laid on it and all this is covered with a laminate.

But the cost of operating an electric floor is almost 2 times higher than that of a water floor.

Therefore, in the long run, it is better to install a water one.

We will start from the fact that we have already installed the base of the finishing floor and the usual insulation is laid under it. In this case, it is not so important what it will be, a board or plywood;
Most liquid underfloor heating are mounted on the basis of metal-plastic pipe diameter 16 or 17 mm. For laying this pipe, we will use aluminum panels with a gutter in the center;

But these shields themselves are very thin, they do not have any bearing capacity. Therefore, under them we will need to mount a special crate. A planed board with a section of 26x100 mm is taken as a crate;

This board is attached to the base with self-tapping screws in pairs. That is, two planks are placed end-to-end, after which a gap of about 18 mm is made between them (for the thickness of the aluminum plate gutter).
And then comes the next pair of planks and so the entire plane is sewn up. After that, the aluminum plates themselves are stacked and fastened with a stapler;

Such aluminum plates are also good because, firstly, they are light, which means that there will be no problems with transportation. And secondly, thin metal can be easily cut with ordinary scissors, which is very convenient when mounting on complex surfaces.

The base is ready, now it will be necessary to lay the piping into it and connect the pipes to the supply system. By the way, when laying piping, it will almost certainly be necessary to cut the laths of the crate somewhere. For these purposes, I used an electric chisel, a good device, buy it, you won't regret it;

Such a warm floor is usually covered with laminate, but linoleum can be used as a temporary option. And do not forget that a layer of technical polyethylene is necessarily placed between the heating flooring and the fine finish.

A few words about important points

Any more or less educated person understands that wood needs to be impregnated with something, otherwise it will deteriorate. Now for these purposes on the market there are a lot of offers from the most famous of these are impregnations from the manufacturers "Chief Technologist", "Senezh", "Pinotex" and others.

The quality of most of these materials is good, but our people are still trying to save money and use their own old-fashioned recipes. The most famous recipe for impregnating a subfloor and log is to coat the wood with machine oil or creosote.

I will say right away that no living creature will even come close to your wood, but the house will constantly smell of machine oil. A friend of mine assured me that the smell would disappear, and so after a couple of years I visited his dacha and felt like in a garage.

One of the good options is to cover the subfloor bituminous mastic. But again, it is better to buy this mastic, and not to dilute bitumen yourself with gasoline or kerosene.

Choosing a material for warming a wooden floor

Now there are a lot of modern materials for floor insulation in a private house. And if a concrete screed can be insulated with almost any heat-insulating material, then in a wooden house you need to be careful with the choice.

Cotton insulation

In general, it is believed that mineral wool is perhaps the most the best insulation when it comes to wooden structures. Of course, there is some truth in this statement. But people forget that cotton wool is different. And the most unpleasant thing here is that any cotton wool absorbs moisture.

Even 20 - 30 years ago, glass wool was used for similar purposes. Apparently, therefore, many old masters prove that this is an excellent and almost universal insulation. So, no matter how much this material costs, forget about glass wool.

Glass wool, and with it all other soft mats, for example, the now widely advertised Ursa, absorbs moisture very strongly. As they get wet, such mats shrink and become like an old flannelette blanket.

It is impossible to revive a shrunken cotton mat somehow, it is simply thrown away. And since wood has natural moisture, the life of such mats in the underground is a maximum of 5-7 years.

But in the line of mineral wool insulation there are also basalt slabs. That's really good quality material. The higher the density of the plate, the longer such insulation will last. For enclosed timber structures such as floors, walls and roofs, the recommended density starts from 100kg/m³.

If you decide to take mineral wool boards, keep in mind that for laying between the lags, the width of the plate should be 10 - 15 mm larger than the width of the niche. Plus, so that there are no cold bridges, it is recommended to lay the plates in 2 tiers, and so that the joints between these tiers do not coincide (in a checkerboard pattern).

More recently, ecowool has appeared on the market. This material is made from recycled materials, more precisely from waste paper. But apparently recyclables are now in short supply, since the price of ecowool is solid.

Although the performance characteristics of ecowool are good, in terms of hygroscopicity it is equal to mineral wool basalt slabs. In order for the installation to be of really high quality, it is better to call a team of professionals and they, using a special compressor, will blow the material into the underground.

If there is no desire to pay specialists, then you can fill up ecowool between the lags and fluff it with a mixing nozzle on an electric drill. In this case, during installation, the finishing flooring should slightly press down on the ecowool. Over time, it will sit down a little and a ventilation gap will form.

Loose insulation

There are many materials in this niche, but double floors are most often insulated with expanded clay or vermiculite. Each of them has its pros and cons.

Expanded clay is fired and boiled clay at high temperatures. The price of such a heater is more than affordable. The strength of expanded clay is quite high, even a dry screed is mounted on it (this is when expanded clay is poured and leveled from below, and strong sheets are laid on top).

But in order for the insulation to be of really high quality, expanded clay must be poured with a layer of at least 200 mm. Accordingly, it will be necessary to increase the lags or be content with the quality of insulation that is.

As you understand, expanded clay is not suitable for the construction described above with a low subfloor. But for warming the floor in a dry attic, this is a great option. It was not in vain that I mentioned a dry attic, expanded clay, of course, not like cotton wool, but it also absorbs moisture.

At the moment, from dry bulk heaters, vermiculite is best suited for floor insulation in a wooden house. In general, vermiculite is a volcanic rock from the same group as mica. When fired, it becomes porous.

Vermiculite is certainly more expensive than expanded clay, but it is not afraid of humidity. Plus, for normal insulation of vermiculite, you need 1.5–2 times less than expanded clay.

Usually from below subfloor kraft paper or nanoisol is laid, and a vermiculite pillow is poured on top. It is possible, but not necessary, to cover this insulation with another layer of kraft paper.

There is also a folk version of insulation with sawdust, it is now often used by lovers of everything natural. So, for these purposes, sawdust is taken dry, in addition, they must be aged in a dry place for at least a year.

Plus, in their pure form, they do not fall asleep, they also add Fluffy lime in a ratio of about 10: 1 or a maximum of 10: 2 (for 10 parts of sawdust, 2 parts of lime).

Styrene-based slab insulation

There are also 2 options in this niche - this is polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Both of them are made on the basis of styrene, only the technologies are different. For wooden houses, they can be used, but only in places with a high underground or for warming interfloor ceilings.

The reason for these limitations is that both materials are in fact waterproofers. The level of vapor permeability of the foam is so scanty that it can be ignored.

And extruded polystyrene foam does not even let steam through at all. Accordingly, so that the wood does not begin to deteriorate, there must be good ventilation in the subfield.

If you choose between these two materials, then I would recommend taking a simple PSB-S25 foam for arranging double floors.

Extruded polystyrene foam, which, thanks to advertising, is better known as Penoplex, is a good insulation. But all its elegant operational properties in a closed underground are not in demand at all. But you will have to pay 2-3 times more money for it.

Insulating foam

Here we have polyurethane foam and penoizol. I will say right away that such insulation will be expensive, since you will not do it with your own hands, special equipment is needed here.

In general, I believe that the use of such materials in a wooden house for insulating double floors is not justified. Not only are they expensive, but the foam after solidification does not allow air to pass through.

In addition, polyurethane foam is of course a quality thing, its characteristics are close to those of extruded polystyrene foam. But penoizol is the same foam, only liquid. And if there is not much difference for the underground, then why pay more.

Conclusion

Consider the main stages of work on thermal insulation:

Flooring on the draft floor log. This operation is carried out as repair work and the construction of a wooden house. The main advantage of this floor system is that there is no pressure on the insulation during the operation of the house. Any insulating material can be used for this. The subfloor is made from raw boards - inches (board thickness 25 mm). Before starting the installation of the board, treat with an antiseptic. The logs are fixed on brick posts, and the edges of the logs do not reach the walls closely. The distance between them is up to 1 meter, subfloor shields are attached to them from below. Attention should be paid to large gaps between the floor boards: they must be eliminated. Next, a waterproofing layer of the film is laid.
Insulation is laid in the lag openings. It can be both sheet and tiled, rolled.
Installation of vapor barrier, if necessary - another layer of waterproofing (when using mineral wool, glass wool). It can be impregnating, painting and pasted over. Pasted over - this is a cellophane film, the most common type. Also often used roofing material, isoplast. When vapor barrier layers of the film overlap each other. Joints and distances near walls and partitions are glued with special adhesive tape.
Floor laying and finishing. The gap between the vapor barrier and the floor is made mandatory for the air gap. Planed boards are used, about 5 mm thick, and a special lock is milled on them along the length of the board.

Scheme of wooden floor insulation in a wooden house

The choice of insulation

Consider all types of heaters:

Insulation with Penofol

For insulation between lags, it is better to use a combination of insulation. For example, first fill the space with mineral wool. All gaps are filled with foam or sealant. From above, with an overlap between the layers and on the walls of about 10 cm, Penofol is laid, foil up.

Insulator sheets are attached with a stapler or adhesive tape and chipboard is laid on top, on the logs. Leave a gap to the walls of about one and a half centimeters. It is necessary to remember about the gap between the insulation and the floor. Then the finished floor is laid. It is possible to make insulation only with Penofol without plates.

But there is another way to insulate with Penofol. We clean the old floor from bumps and lay the insulating layer. Then slats are attached to create a ventilation gap, and everything is also sewn up with chipboard and a clean floor. Highly easy way thermal insulation.

Insulator sheets are fastened with a stapler or adhesive tape and chipboard is laid on top, on the logs

How to insulate the floor with foam

We lay a layer of waterproofing (polyethylene or roofing material) on the subfloor. Then we lay Penoplex sheets in logs without gaps. We fasten the edges together with adhesive tape or glue the sheets to the base. We lay a layer of vapor barrier on top, close it with a clean floor. When working, it is necessary to use the basic rules and recommendations - the overlap between the sheets of heat and vapor barrier should be at least 10 cm.

Floor insulation with foam

A feature of this type of insulation is that a screed is made on top of the expanded clay layer, and a wooden floor is attached to it. Recommendations - it is better to entrust the calculation of the expanded clay layer to a specialist. In a wooden house, it is better to use several sizes of expanded clay granules to maximize the filling of voids.

In a wooden house, it is better to use several sizes of expanded clay granules to maximize the filling of voids.

Mineral wool for insulation

It is better to use plates or mats. Rolls are inconvenient to work with and leave a lot of waste when sizing. The gaps between the plates should be well filled. Cold bridges can form here, which leads to heat loss. Expanded clay can be used as an additional layer. This will further increase the thermal insulation of the wooden floor in the house.

Wooden houses require a more careful approach to floor insulation work. This is necessary, first of all, to preserve the structure itself from decay and fungus. A warm floor makes the house cozy, it is pleasant and comfortable to be in it.

Before proceeding with the insulation of the floor on your own, you need to familiarize yourself with the types and features of heaters. As well as the algorithm for performing work. This is what will be discussed in our article.

Peculiarities

Wooden floors, unlike concrete, are much warmer. Wood is a capricious material and when building a house it is not always possible to achieve the desired effect. The ratio of thickness and thermal conductivity is often disproportionate, so floor insulation in a house made of wood is simply necessary.

The possibility of floor insulation is not only in new houses, but also in long-built ones.

dampness;
the appearance and reproduction of mold;
the appearance of microorganisms and fungi that adversely affect the health of those living in the house;
high consumption of thermal energy for heating the house;
building damage and destruction.

Work on floor insulation can be carried out independently. This will significantly reduce the budget. Available in construction stores wide range of materials, work with which is possible even without certain skills.

Structural insulation means different types works:

insulation of floors above the basement;
insulation of interfloor ceilings;
insulation of the ceiling between the living room and the attic.

In each case, materials are used not only to maintain optimal temperature regime but also for soundproofing. A well-insulated first floor is a guarantee that the house will become comfortable for living.

Floor types

In houses made of wood, two types of floors are used: concrete and wood.

The second option falls into two categories:

floor board, glued wood;
parquet board and laminate.

The concrete floor can be made by hand without the involvement of specialists. There are two options for laying concrete: on the ground and on logs. The most common is the first option.

All work is carried out in several stages:

priming;
sand;
thermal insulation;
waterproofing.

The next step is to fill the floor with concrete screed. If a warm floor is installed, then it must be installed at this stage.

The wooden floor, like the concrete coating, also has several layers:

bulk floor (rough);
waterproofing layer;
thermal insulation layer;
clean coverage.

If installation of a warm floor system is necessary, then it is carried out at the construction stage between the finishing and rough coatings. The wooden floor is natural material and therefore environmentally friendly. During operation, substances harmful to humans will not be released into the air. Such a coating has an aesthetic and noble appearance.

What can be insulated?

Floor insulation in a wooden house is carried out in order to reduce heat loss. The most commonly used and inexpensive heaters are expanded clay and sand. Below is a list of other popular floor insulators.

Mineral wool. The main features of this heat insulator are low thermal conductivity, durability, high noise insulation properties, and moisture absorption. It is also worth noting that mineral wool is an environmentally friendly material.

In order to determine whether a product is of high quality or not, you need to check its color. Mineral wool, made from natural raw materials, has a brown color. A product that has been manufactured using prohibited substances will have a yellow tint.

This insulation is produced in plates and rolls. Roll insulation most common when used over large areas. Mineral wool is very convenient, no special knowledge and skills are required during operation. Everything can be done by hand. The material is lightweight and breathable.

Polyurethane foam. The heater is quite expensive. This will require not only the help of specialists, but also special equipment. The material is close to polystyrene in its properties. But he will not withstand the screed. They can insulate the floor from below. The average service life of such a heater is 30 years.

Expanded clay. The material is quite common. Expanded clay is granules of fired foamed clay. The material has high performance properties, lightweight. But with all the variety of advantages, there is one serious drawback. Expanded clay absorbs moisture very well, so when using it, it is imperative to install waterproofing.

Sawdust is a bulk insulation option. Against mice, sawdust mixed with slaked lime powder is used: 8 parts of sawdust to 2 parts of lime. Such a heater can be poured between the rough and finishing floors. The average layer thickness is 20-40 cm, depending on climatic conditions.

Isolon is polyethylene, which has a foam structure. The thickness of this coating is 10 mm. Foiled on one or both sides. It is laid on top of the cotton wool. Also used as underfloor heating.

What is better to choose?

A wooden house can be placed on a foundation and have a basement (basement), or it can be located on piles.

Stilt houses are in great demand among consumers. This is due to the fact that such a design does not require a lot of time and energy during construction and operation. There are also no requirements for the soil on which the building will be located. The choice of insulation for a house on stilts requires taking into account the design features. With the right approach, the house will become not only warm, but also cozy.

But with all the pluses, there is a drawback: the house is located at a distance from the ground. The structure is not protected by the basement and is exposed to winds. In this case, it turns out that the house is protected from soil moisture, but at the same time the entire floor area is available to winds and frosts. In order for the house to please its owners, it is worth making high-quality floor insulation.

Floor insulation in stilt houses is carried out in several stages:

Training. Before starting work on floor insulation, it is worth providing full access to the logs. This is done to enable verification. After work has begun, it will not be possible to inspect.
Draft floor. There are a lot of ways to create a subfloor, but still builders often use the traditional one. It is necessary to nail a beam on the logs, which in the future will serve as a support for the flooring from the boards. Beam and logs are processed by special means against rot and fungus.

But do not use tools that create a film. This will prevent the wood from breathing, causing it to rot. Boards for flooring under the subfloor should also be processed. This is necessary to increase the service life of the material. When calculating, it is worth considering the weight of the insulation that will be used. As a flooring, you can use plywood for lightweight insulation. If, for example, polystyrene is used, then a reinforced mesh can be used to strengthen the lower layer. This will help distribute the weight.

Vapor barrier. Vapor barrier must be used so that moisture does not get on the insulation. For this, it is better to use polyethylene or roofing felt. These materials belong to the economy class. When laying them, it is necessary to provide ventilation products. The vapor barrier layer must be both on top of the insulation and on the bottom. This will not allow the condensate formed during the temperature difference to get on the materials.

Clean floor. The finished floor is the final stage of floor insulation, which can also be a topcoat. For this, absolutely any materials can be used (solid wood, chipboard, plywood).

To make the house on stilts look presentable, as well as for additional protection from the effects of climatic conditions, experts advise making an easy version of the basement floor.

Insulated floor maintenance

Manufacturers

Many companies are engaged in the production of materials for floor insulation. Among them are world-famous brands and those who are just starting their journey. Most companies have almost a century of history. In order to help you in your choice, below is a ranking of the most popular manufacturers. All of them represent materials with proven quality.

Knauf. An international manufacturer with over 90 years of experience. Insulation materials are popular all over the world. Products are made from natural raw materials the latest technologies. All heaters are environmentally friendly and harmless. Knauf has been a market leader for many years.

rockwool. The company works on modern technologies and specializes in basalt thermal insulation materials. The advantage of this raw material in high performance and affordable price. In Russia, branches are located in Moscow, Chelyabinsk and Leningrad regions. The company is in second place in the ranking of manufacturers of insulation materials.
Paroc. The company also specializes mainly in the production of mineral wool. Time-tested quality. The manufacturer focuses on saving thermal energy for heating a living space and excellent sound insulation. But the disadvantage of this company is that all heaters have a fairly high price. That is why the company is ranked third.