DIY wardrobe: how to make an inexpensive but stylish design project? (93 photos, drawings and diagrams). DIY wardrobe How to make a wardrobe with your own hands

In furniture stores and salons you can find anything, but there are many reasons that make the purchase of any piece of furniture impractical. For example, they are not satisfied with the shape, dimensions, color, cost - everyone will get their own list of “does not fit”.

To make with your own hands, according to your own drawings, a sliding wardrobe is a more than rational solution. This will make it possible to avoid a number of problems, especially if we are talking about a small apartment. In addition, it will come out much cheaper than buying or ordering.

Starting to manufacture a wardrobe at home, you should understand what is the nuance of this design. Its doors move (or move apart, on roller bearings) to the sides, and do not open, as with traditional pieces of furniture. Therefore, there is often confusion with the definitions of wardrobes and built-in furniture. In some articles it is noted that these are different things, but they are not. If the cabinet doors are precisely shifted to the side, then this is a “compartment”, and such an assembly can also be built-in. It all depends on where and how it is installed. So how do you start building?

It is from him that the dimensions of the future design depend. The choice is small - use a niche in the wall (if any) or place a closet along the room. Full length or not, this is the decision of the owner. Here you should think about how to correctly rearrange the furniture in order to achieve the optimal combination of the interior of the room with its main purpose.

For a small living space, a good option is to use a closet for zoning a room.

Make a design sketch

You don't have to start drawing right away. Until it is completely clear how much is required (based on the installation site, family composition) of compartments, shelves, drawers, what sizes to choose for them, what else to provide - a mini-bar, a niche for a TV - it makes no sense to do accurate calculations. It is also important how all such elements are arranged. The filling of the cabinet should be organically combined with the convenience of its use. As an example, it is advisable to arrange a compartment for outerwear closer to front door, a TV shelf is often placed in the center. It is necessary to focus on the specifics of the premises. If the design is installed in the hallway, then the TV in the closet is unlikely to be appropriate.

Without taking into account all such nuances, you may subsequently encounter the fact that some shelves will be empty, and the boxes will clearly be missing. Or vice versa.

Doing something with your own hands is a huge advantage. Any wardrobe sample you like can only be taken as a basis, and it’s easy to guess how to adapt it to local specifics, modernize it. The main thing is to “feed” with rational ideas. By the way, at the same time, their own original ideas will appear.

Drafting

Do-it-yourself manufacturing of structures with changing geometry is impractical. Yes, they look nice, but nothing more. On the functionality of the closet, various bends, height differences are not reflected in any way. In addition, to make an original assembly, you need relevant experience in the "furniture" business, a special tool (- required), as well as skills in working with it.

Conclusion - choosing any design as a basis, it is worth really evaluating your capabilities.

To reduce the consumption of materials and simplify the process of manufacturing a sliding wardrobe, it is desirable to calculate its linear parameters in such a way as to maximize the use of existing surfaces (room walls, floor, ceiling). That is, draw up a drawing, taking into account that some of them will become structural elements of the wardrobe. For example, in order not to mount its back wall, you can pre-finish the wall of the room in this area in an appropriate way (with panels, thickened wallpaper, paint - there are enough options).

What to consider when drawing up a drawing:

All linear dimensions are in cm.

• Recommended compartment height for outerwear: for men - at least 170, for women - 140. If a separate niche is intended for trousers - 135.
• The depth of drawers for underwear, socks, and so on is 12 - 14.
• The optimal width of the shelves for shoes is about 90 ± 5.
• On the upper shelves it is advisable to place shopping bags, suitcases, as well as things that are used in certain seasons or very rarely. For example, ski boots or with skates, backpacks and the like.
• For things made of materials that "stretch", it is advisable to take away drawers or shelves. It is not worth keeping them on the shoulders.
• The design of the closet should allow you to adjust the height of the crossbars on which clothes are hung.
• The compartments where bed linen will be stored should preferably be closed with additional doors.

• Folding wardrobe doors should not be too massive. Otherwise, they will warp pretty quickly. Yes, and pushing / moving the overall canvas is difficult. In most cases, their sufficient width is 65 ± 5.
• The recommended overlap of the doors (overlap) is about 6 cm. If more - difficulties in using the closet, less - cracks may form. And this is dust and excess moisture.

Selection of materials

• GKL. These sheets are sold in various modifications, and are inexpensive. But drywall is definitely unsuitable for a wardrobe. The reason is lack of strength. On some sites, it is he who is indicated as the most recommended material for a wardrobe. But the author expressed his opinion based on practical experience. And what to do is up to you, the reader.
• Boards. Also inappropriate. Firstly, they will have to be cut, polished, and with their own hands. Even if the products are of the highest quality, this cannot be avoided. How laborious such a process is, it is not worth explaining. In addition, you will need a tool that not every home has. Secondly, there will be difficulties with the processing (impregnation) of wood, and this will have to be done regularly. Thirdly, any tree is subject to deformation (due to changes in humidity, temperature), so there is a risk of twisting. Especially if the closet is supposed to be installed in a niche (in such places, as a rule, damp). As a result, the structure will “lead” after some time.

What is recommended for a closet? Sheet, board materials - multilayer plywood, OSV, chipboard, MDF. Such products are made by pressing (which means they have the necessary strength), are inert to external factors (temperature, humidity), are easy to process with your own hands and are affordable.

Separately, it is worth stopping at plywood. Since we are talking about a room, then, taking into account the acceptable cost of sheets best option– . PSF products should not be used - the adhesive composition that holds the veneer together is toxic.

On a note! If there is no appropriate tool at hand, then it is better to entrust the cutting of the material to a professional. According to the finished drawings, any fragments will be cut out in a specialized workshop (workshop). Yes, it will cost money. But if we take into account the possible amount of marriage when sawing plates (sheets) with our own hands, then the expediency of such a solution for a novice home master is obvious. By the way, experience shows that the assembly of furniture is generally delayed for a long time precisely because of the discrepancy between the sizes of individual components.

Features of the manufacture of wardrobe

Having a well-drawn drawing, with verified dimensions, it is not difficult to assemble the structure. But there are nuances that are worth paying attention to.

Before assembly

First you need to evaluate the evenness of the wall to which the closet will adjoin (if it has not been previously finished). Some curvature is possible, since various tolerances are stipulated in SNiP. For example, on the concrete goods. Here it is worth determining what is more expedient (faster, more convenient) - to additionally level the surface or “undermine” some structural detail. Neglecting this stage subsequently turns into some difficulties in installing the wardrobe.

Fastening components

• Any piece of furniture, even the highest quality, needs to be repaired someday. The conclusion is not difficult to make - it is necessary to use only self-tapping screws (for wood).
• An interesting question that is often asked by novice furniture makers is the length of the cabinet legs. There is general rule- it should be 3 times the thickness of the part to be joined. That is, if you need to fix a piece of plywood by 10 mm, then the self-tapping screw for it is selected by 30.
• Any metal is subject to corrosion. And microparticles of water are present in the air in every room, regardless of its specifics. Humidity at 0% is nonsense. The rust that forms on the metal quickly passes to the wood, and a dark spot appears around the head of the fastener, which is difficult to hide even with tinting varnish. Therefore, it is necessary to work only with stainless steel screws.

Gain elements

Sliding wardrobe - a peculiar design. All its components experience constant loads, which, moreover, are unevenly distributed. Limiting the articulation of parts only with the help of self-tapping screws - artificially reduce the shelf life of furniture. Therefore, it is imperative to use various corners, plates and the like in the assembly process. They are easy to make with your own hands from aluminum blanks (there are corresponding samples on sale). Although you can buy ready-made elements - not a shortage.

Fastener head masking

When drilling a channel under the leg of the self-tapping screw, a chamfer is made. It should be borne in mind that the materials used for the manufacture of the wardrobe are destroyed by excessive mechanical stress. Therefore, screwing is done carefully, so that the head "drowns" by about 1 mm. It is at this depth that the chamfer is drilled. From above, the self-tapping screw is masked with sealant. In furniture stores, appropriate products are sold that differ in shade, and it will not be difficult to match the closet to match. As an option - plastic "plugs". There are also various colors.

Geometry check

Another "pitfall". All structural elements of the wardrobe must be controlled for compliance with the dimensions. At the assembly stage, a tape measure (ruler) and a square are the first assistants to the master. If you do not carefully check each drawer or shelf, then as a result it will turn out that some of them cannot be installed in place. Or "presses", or goes awry. The lack of such control is one of the most common mistakes made by novice furniture makers.

Door installation

There are 3 options for the suspension system of canvases, and each has its own advantages and disadvantages. On which design to stop, it is decided on the spot, based on the dimensions of the closet, the number of compartments, and so on.

• Top guide. In terms of operation, a convenient solution, but the mount must be especially strong. Such a closet is being built to the ceiling, and this does not suit everyone.

• Bottom guide. It is considered the easiest option to implement. But the choice of rollers should be made taking into account the fact that they will have the maximum load.

• Monorail. The differences are fundamental. Firstly, under each canvas, its own guides are installed. Secondly, they are fixed both above and below. But in terms of durability - the best option for a closet.

Everything else is quite simple. The final step is to inspect assembled structure, individual defects are identified and eliminated, if necessary - additional grinding. After that, the option is selected external design- varnishing, pasting with decorative paper (for example, under a valuable tree species), laminating with a special film. You can do a lot with your hands.

The author recommends that even before drawing up the drawing, go through the furniture stores and carefully examine the wardrobes displayed in them. It doesn't matter what shape, size, number of compartments and finishes they have. The purpose of the visit is to get acquainted with the design features. If you understand how the factory assembly was carried out, then in the future, without any complications, you can make a wardrobe according to any drawing with your own hands.

Spacious wardrobes with a convenient sliding door system are not only an adornment of any interior, but also a necessary element in the arrangement of modern housing. There is a large selection of ready-made models with different sizes and equipment. If for some reason a person could not choose for himself suitable option, you can make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands.

To build a structure yourself, you need to assemble a small set of tools, prepare a supply of materials and additional accessories for finishing the design. Before starting work, you will need to determine the purpose and number of the main sections, make the necessary measurements. In addition, you need to choose the direction of design, type of lighting, style of decoration and fittings. Assembling your own built-in storage system is not as difficult as it seems. You can use step-by-step instructions that describe in detail each stage.

Example of a built-in structure drawing

What are sliding wardrobes

A built-in wardrobe implies a special design for storing personal items, equipped in a niche. Often there is no back wall in it, and the main parts are attached to the floor, ceiling, side walls of the room. The main difference from analogues is the sliding door mechanism. The shutters move along the guides in both directions. In the open state they do not occupy a useful living space.

Work procedure

The manufacturing process of the wardrobe consists of the following steps:

• selection of materials;
• determination of the location and dimensions of the structure;
• design of door panels;
• development of a plan and selection of a method for attaching shelves;
• preparatory finishing work in a niche;
• drawing up a drawing based on the measurements taken;
• purchase of the necessary panels, auxiliary equipment, accessories;
• sawing sheets, forming workpieces;
• frame assembly, fitting and installation of all elements;
• installation of lighting (if necessary);
• finishing the front side of the cabinet and installing doors.

Assembly master at work

Materials and tools

The choice of materials depends on the development of a drawing of a future cabinet, a list of necessary tools, and a diagram of installation work.

Wood and lining

The traditional raw material for furniture is wood. Cabinet furniture made of natural wood serves for many years, looks expensive, emphasizes the status of the owner of the house.

Expert opinion

Alexander Didenko

The use of raw wooden parts for arranging a niche - not the most the best choice. Due to the moisture that forms against the background of the temperature difference inside and outside the structure, they can be deformed. To avoid this, it is better to use straight-layer planks made of solid wood and covered with special protective equipment.

Unlike wood, lining does not require pre-treatment. Plastic or MDF panels are suitable for a compartment design. The boards are easily joined into grooves, fixed with glue. Wood is used to frame the door frames.

Drywall

Plasterboard finishing gives you the opportunity to experiment. hard to find facing material better, but it is not recommended to use it as a base for the frame. The fragile structure of the sheets does not meet the requirements for load-bearing structures. The panels must be attached to a complex metal profile system. The finished wardrobe is covered with putty and a layer of decorative cladding. Such cabinets are not designed to store heavy items.

Laminate sheets, MDF and fiberboard panels

Planks made of wood shavings visually imitate solid wood. There are surfaces with different relief and structure. The protective coating prevents swelling or delamination of the ends of the parts. Cloths are resistant to mechanical damage. Building a closet is inexpensive. The process itself does not require the involvement of outside help.

For your information: fiberboard sheets should be of medium or high density.

Required inventory

For the manufacture of a home-made built-in structure, special devices are needed, stock Supplies.

List of tools:

• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• level for geometry control;
• electric jigsaw for fitting parts;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• self-tapping screws;
• a hammer.

You will also need accessories such as hanger bars, guides for the movement of the wings, and a door mechanism.

Filling the closet

Design and drawing development

Work on the design of the future cabinet begins with the layout of the filling. After determining the place where the sections will be located, you can begin to calculate and display measurements on the drawing.

Internal layout plan

When designing, it is customary to adhere to the following rules:

• it is better to place a section with outerwear on the side so that moisture does not spread around the perimeter;
• for small accessories, you need to allocate a prominent place so that they are always at hand;
• it is recommended to store clothes, bed linen, towels from above, since moisture collects within half a meter from the floor, dust rises;
• to store valuable items, several boxes must be provided.

Interior space example

Based on the planning results, it is necessary to determine the minimum width of the shelves. This parameter is useful at the stage of sash calculation.

Measurements and design of the drawing

To make measurements correctly, you need to consider a few recommendations. Walls in a niche are rarely even. Errors in uneven finishing of corners are usually imperceptible, but a difference of even 2 mm is striking.

It is recommended to measure the width at a minimum of three points. The measurement of the back wall is made from above, in the middle, from below. Then, according to a similar principle, the dimensions of the facade are determined. Height measurements are also taken in three places, separately for the front and rear walls.

Advice. In order for the finished structure to enter the niche without gaps, all errors are carefully calculated before installation, allowances for installation are added.

When displaying measurements on the drawing, you need to sum up the thickness of the material with the edge tape, add 10 cm for the sliding door mechanism.

Blanks and accessories

Sawing into individual parts according to finished sizes is best ordered from furniture material sellers. As a rule, such a service is provided in hardware stores and retail suppliers. The advantages of this solution are:

• availability of equipment that allows cutting large sheets of blanks with an accuracy of up to a millimeter;
• professionals calculate the optimal arrangement of parts in a sheet, which saves material, the rest is transferred to the buyer;
• delivery of finished parts is easier than large-sized sheets, the risk of damage during transportation is reduced;
• sellers can arrange promotions when the service can be much cheaper or even free with a large order of materials, which is a nice bonus.

The ends of the parts are also additionally framed. Edge finishing provides protection of elements from influence of moisture, temperature fluctuations. The edges of the blanks will take on a complete look.

Edge banding of slabs with different thicknesses of trim tape

D For laminated strips and MDF panels, the minimum thickness of the body elements should be from 1.6 cm, the leaves - from 2.5 cm.

All necessary fittings, accessories, decorative elements sold in specialized stores.

Preparatory work in the niche

In order for the walls with the ceiling to serve as a housing for the future cabinet, you will need to prepare them first. The main purpose of finishing is that the surface should not spread dust to storage items. Processing is easy. You will need to remove the old lining and apply an acrylic emulsion to the cleaned surface.

Expert opinion

Alexander Didenko

Furniture assembler at Mabax

Wallpaper or paint can be easily removed with a surfactant cleaning agent. The composition of the substance is harmless, has no pungent odor. In just half an hour, the old finish can be easily removed with a spatula. Before painting, it is recommended to apply with a foam roller water based primer(For example,OLYMP, TEX) on overlappings several times, with a break of one day.

Chassis Installation

In order to fix the frame the first time, it is recommended that it clearly demonstrates the nuances of installation. For built-in wardrobes, the functions of the frame are performed by the floor, ceiling, walls and a frame for fastening the guide parts of the compartment.

Important: It is unacceptable to mount the frame panel on an uneven surface. With a sloping ceiling, curved walls or different levels of the floor surface, the door leaves will not move correctly. Before installation, you will need to prepare a flat base.

Laminate inserts are used to level the surface or wood boards. The correct geometry is checked by a level. The frame with auxiliary slats is built into the wall using self-tapping screws.

The gaps are masked by pre-prepared decorative strips - friezes. Additional elements cut out to match all the details, fixed with special glue.

Assembly nuances

It is necessary to assemble the frame to the height of the ceiling in an upright position. If you combine elements on the floor, when the case is raised, the length of the lateral diagonal will exceed the distance from floor to ceiling. Finished construction it will not work to lift and build into a niche.

The sequence of works with a stretch ceiling

The choice of a particular technology depends on the state of repair, the skills of the performer.

Door preparation

key element compartment system for storage - doors. Installation work takes place in three stages:

• determining the width and number of doors;
• choice of suspension design;
• stopper installation.

Calculation of the number of canvases in accordance with the width of the wings

Comfort during operation depends on the number of wardrobe doors. More convenient are those models in which there are 2-3 doors. Installing doors that are too wide is not recommended. Panels may seize at the top of the fasteners over time. It is also likely that distortions will appear due to the large weight of the elements. The maximum canvas size is 60-70 cm.

For a correct calculation, it is necessary to take into account the amount of overlap. If there is insufficient overlap between the door panels, gaps will be visually noticeable. With excessive overlap, it is more problematic to plan the interior placement for a compartment in a hallway or closet with limited space. The optimal overlap width is within 5-7 cm.

Influence of the number of valves on the calculations

Another fundamental point- the width of the panel should not exceed the dimensions of the narrowest storage compartment. An incorrect calculation will lead to partial or complete blocking of access to the section.

About 4-5 cm must be subtracted from the final figure for the side racks that limit the movement of the wings from the side of the wall.

The calculation procedure is as follows:

1. Calculations are made based on the total width of the future cabinet.
2. The number of overlaps is defined as the sum of the leaves minus one.
3. If the resulting value is greater than the maximum allowable panel width, the number of sashes is increased by one.
4. You will need to repeat the calculations until you reach the allowable web width.

Calculation example

Initial data: opening - 175 cm, minimum shelf width - 45 cm. With these parameters, it is impossible to make a double-leaf door system. The parameters of one panel will exceed the allowable value. With three wings, the following result is obtained: 175–10 (or 14 cm for two overlaps) - 5 cm for side planks = 160 (or 156) cm. When divided into three planks, the size of one canvas is 53 or 52 cm, which is more than necessary. In this case, you will need to change to 3 overlaps and 4 sashes. You will get canvases with a width of 39/37 cm. Each additional sash significantly affects the increase in the cost of the project. It is advisable to redo the original content in such a way that the size of the shelf is 55 cm. For convenience, you can use ours.

suspension systems

There are single-rail systems for the movement of canvases and two-rail mechanisms of the lower and upper types. depends on the design parameters, the intended use of the niche, the allocated budget.

Hanging system for cabinet doors

Lower suspension

The most reliable mechanism The movement of the shutters is provided by rollers at the bottom, at the top they prevent the leaf from falling out.

Advice. When buying accessories, you need to pay attention to the quality of the rollers. Parts must withstand the increased load at the bottom of the device.

To install, you need to fix the sash in the upper groove, then insert it into the lower one.

The floor that has sagged from time to time can affect the operation of such a mechanism. You also need to regularly clean the rollers so that the knocked down layer of dust does not interfere with the movement of the doors.

Bottom position of rollers

Upper support

When moving due to the upper rail, smooth operation of the mechanism without unnecessary noise is ensured. The device is inexpensive and easy to install. In order for the panel to fit into the groove, it must be tilted. It is imperative to supplement the system with lower guides so that the doors do not rub against each other.

The main disadvantage is the unreliable fastening of the sash. Accidental pressing brings the rollers out of the recess. Because of this, the door leaf falls inward.

Upper support system

single rail mechanism

The monorail system works by means of two pairs of rollers moving along a separate guide bar. Such fastening allows you to do without rails on the floor. The device is also unstable to force. Therefore, it is recommended to strengthen the mechanism with a lower set of rollers with slats for movement. A strong suspension allows you to embed wide canvases.

In addition to numerous advantages, the monosystem has several disadvantages:

1. The cost of the mechanism is above average.
2. The gap between the sash and the rails must be decorated with a special insert.
3. Difficult installation technology. It is necessary to put the carriages on the rails in advance, fix the box to the ceiling surface. The final step is fixing the door. Assistance is required to hang the sashes.
4. The complete suspension needs to be adjusted.

Locking elements

Most often, mechanical latches are used for coupes.

There are two types of stoppers:

• recess in the guide bar;
• latch in the form of a figured spring of a flat type.

Spring-action retainers are a pair of antennae between which the wheel sinks. In the case of rolling rollers, the sides of the grooves fix the abutting antennae.

Suspension systems use a rubber stopper

Regular opening and closing often leads to misalignment with inevitable damage to the latch. The best prevention of breakdowns is the use of high quality fittings, careful use.

Shelf fixing

Another simple method of fastening is the use of an ordinary MDF plinth of a suitable texture and color. It is screwed to the wall with screws. Plinth pieces take a third less than the length of the shelf, the ends are cut off at an oblique angle so that the fasteners are less noticeable.

Painting and installation of doors

If you plan to paint the door panels, it is best to apply the paint before mounting the shelves. Thus, there will be a margin of time necessary for the complete drying of the surface.

For the design of cabinets, acrylic-based enamel coating is excellent. There is a large selection of colors for this finish. The dried surface acquires a glossy sheen, easy to clean.

Often the furniture is covered with drying oil. Before painting, it is recommended to apply a primer layer, which ensures uniform distribution of the coloring matter. Thorough surface preparation contributes to the preservation of the primary appearance for many years.

You can start installation after all the parts have dried. Doors should be installed according to the specification attached to the packaging with the suspension mechanism.

Correct installation doors

Backlight

For lighting it is recommended to mount LED backlight, which consumes little electricity, is safe and does not heat up. The resulting light is enough to illuminate a large dressing room. The bulbs are powered by a power supply connected to a common network.

Note. Chiffoniers are made from materials that are not resistant to fire. It is unacceptable to conduct lighting in a 220 V cabinet.

Facing

In most cases, the front part is decorated with mirror inserts, drawings, a combination of overlays of different textures.

Advice. Mirrors installed on wood base, greatly weight the canvas. It is better to buy acrylic surfaces.

An interesting option doors - . Non-standard facade is made according to individual measurements. For manufacturing, an inexpensive solid pine with a beautiful texture and high strength is used. Surface treatment is easy, suitable for painting.

The finished wardrobe must be inspected for defects, protruding chips, open screws. It is necessary to eliminate all the shortcomings that can damage the things stored inside.

Comparison of the cost of a ready-made and home-made cabinet

Making a wardrobe built into the wall with your own hands will cost about 5-10 thousand rubles, taking into account the payment for sawing work (information for 2018). If you have minimal skills, you will have to spend 4-6 days. If there is at least some experience in the manufacture of furniture, then it will take 2-5 days to build a wardrobe.

It is difficult to find a ready-made wardrobe for less than 20 thousand rubles. The standard lead time for an individual order from the manufacturer is from two weeks.

Homemade cabinets and partitions are cheaper than factory ones. But for such work, skills of a higher level will be required. Furniture masters with an established workflow will cope with such an order much faster. Converting a niche into a sliding wardrobe is a great way to turn empty space into a useful functional area.

AT small-sized apartment the most rational piece of furniture wardrobe. They are divided into two types: free-standing cabinets and built-in cabinets. Before proceeding with the issue, how to make a closet with your own hands, you need to choose the option that suits you specifically. Let's look at them in more detail. Also read.

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Choice of cabinet option

Free standing cabinet

Advantage: suitable for different rooms, can be rearranged from place to place, disassembled and moved to another room. Unpretentious to the quality of the floor, walls, ceiling.

Flaw: more material consumption and higher cost compared to a built-in cabinet.

Built-in wardrobe

Advantage: the ability to design for any niche (in the wall, under the stairs, in the attic), lower consumption of materials (part of the cabinet structures replace the floor, walls, ceiling), lower cost.

Flaw: attachment to one place.

At first glance, making a wardrobe is difficult, if not impossible at all. Fortunately, this is not the case. The main thing is to carefully and scrupulously calculate the parameters, the work itself is quite within the power of the home master.

cabinet design

Consider the manufacture of a free-standing cabinet wardrobe. Having studied and mastered its device, you can easily design a built-in wardrobe and also assemble it yourself.

If you have difficulty with sketching and calculating dimensions, it makes sense to invite someone who is skilled in this. “On the fingers” explaining to him the vision of the future cabinet, you will jointly carry out the design. Well, if you have drawing skills, you can master this stage on your own.

We take paper, a pencil and do the following steps:

1. We determine the dimensions of the cabinet based on the location, outline its general view;

2. We determine the dimensions of the bottom, plinth and lid of the cabinet;

3. We divide the interior of the cabinet into horizontal and vertical sections;

4. We determine in which sections the boxes will be installed;

5. We determine the dimensions of the doors of the closing sections, determine (if necessary) the placement of the side open sections and mezzanines;

6. We determine the ends that we will “edge” (close the edges of the sheets special tape, see below);

7. Choosing accessories.

We put down the required dimensions on the drawing.

The process is not easy and can be simplified by using one of the free furniture design software, for example SweetHome 3D.

The tool you need to make a cabinet with your own hands

Before you make a wardrobe with your own hands, you need to acquire essential tool. We will need:

1. Level.
2. Pencil.
3. Square.
4. Awl.
5. Drill and a special drill for "Euroscrews".
6. Screwdriver and bits for it (a screwdriver can also be used as a drill).
7. Hacksaw for metal.
8. Iron.
9. A sharp, durable knife (a joint is convenient).

Materials for making a cabinet

A solid wardrobe would have been made of natural wood, but it is difficult to make large wooden elements at home. Therefore, we use laminated chipboard for assembly, and laminated fiberboard for the back wall. Trade now offers a wide range of colors and shades of these materials.

Making cabinet parts with your own hands

A practical solution to the question of how to make a cabinet with your own hands begins with cutting chipboard sheets into constituent elements. When drawing parts, the cutting width of the saw should be taken into account (usually 3-3.5 mm), otherwise the parts will turn out smaller than necessary.

Cutting (actually, cutting a sheet) is desirable to order in a workshop (sometimes, a similar service is provided in stores). You will be cut chipboard according to your size, quickly and accurately, without bumps and "burrs". To achieve this quality at home, with the help of hand tool very difficult.

Edge trimming of cabinet parts

Having cut the sheet into parts, we proceed to edging. "Edge", this is a regular PVC tape with a thickness of 0.4 - 2 mm. Thin, we use for finishing hidden (lower and rear) ribs, we close the visible ribs with a two-millimeter edge, choosing the desired color and pattern.

for example:

1. Inner shelf: 2mm edge on front rib. The remaining three ribs are adjacent to the inner walls.

2. Cabinet Lid: All ribs are external and require a 2mm edge finish, except for the rear invisible rib. For it, we use an edge of 0.4 mm.

3. Drawer fronts: all edges are external and visible. We use a 2 mm edge.

At home, it is convenient to glue the edges by ironing with an old massive iron, setting the appropriate temperature, depending on the material of the edge (here you will need to experiment a little).

Cut off the rest of the edges with a sharp knife. We clean the cut with fine sandpaper (No. 200 and above).

Cabinet hardware

The number and type of fittings depends on the number of compartments and drawers, and it will require the most diverse, namely:

— handles and guides for drawers;
- handles for doors;
- hangers;
- "Euroscrews" (confirmations) with plugs.

The preparatory work is over, now let's look at how to make a cabinet with your own hands, from the prepared parts.

Do-it-yourself cabinet assembly

1. Mark holes for mounting screws. The work is responsible and requires special precision. Confirmates are often screwed into the end of the part, so the hole should be located exactly in the middle of its thickness.

2. We install the bottom and walls of the cabinet:

2.1. First, we put the bottom and walls of the cabinet in their place, checking the correctness of the overall dimensions.

2.2. We drill holes for attaching the base (it consists of two strips) and the central partition.

2.3. We fix the base and the central partition. We fasten the side walls to the bottom with confirmations. We protect them with a special waterproof profile. So we will protect the parts resting on the floor from moisture.

2.4. We fix the upper shelves, which gives the frame spatial rigidity. The installation of the back wall will further strengthen its installation.

2.5. We mount the cover ("roof") of the cabinet. Even making the cabinet as high as possible, we leave a gap of at least 7 cm between the lid and the ceiling in order to tighten the fastening confirmations.

A screwdriver will not help when attaching the cover. We bait the fasteners with our hands, or with the help of pliers, and then tighten using a curved hex key, or better, a “ratchet” key with an appropriate nozzle.

2.6. We mount the side shelves. We fasten them with four confirmations, 2 on each side of the shelf. If the side shelf is flush with the bottom or the inner shelf of the cabinet, it will not work to fix it with the help of confirmants. In this case, dowels are used - small wooden cylinders. They are inserted into pre-drilled recesses on the wall, and then pushed into the same holes drilled in the shelf.

3. Door assembly. Sliding wardrobe doors are a separate and responsible mechanism. Their installation, at least half of the appearance, and making the cabinet beautiful with your own hands, without doing this part of the work as accurately and accurately as possible, will not work.

We start the assembly from the back door. Let's provide in the middle of its insertion of glass. The top and bottom of the door will be made of chipboard.

First, we check once again whether the cabinet is exactly level, fix the upper one by installing two supports and a lower running profile for it (Photo. 1).

We are preparing a set of accessories for assembling the rear door (Photo. 2):

— a running roller of a back door without pins;
- running roller of the rear door with trunnions;
- corner of the rear door - 2 pcs.
- screw 4x25 - 8 pcs.;
- screw 4x16 - 10 pcs.;
- screw - 6 pcs.;
- sealant.

Before installing the glass (mirror), we evenly install the segments of the sealant along the length of the dividing profile (Photo. 3).

When installing inserts from chipboard, the sealant is not used. The protrusion of the inserts in relation to the profile must be the same on both sides. When assembling the door, we lay the inserts front side on the foam so as not to scratch.

We install glass in dividing horizontal profiles. When installing two glasses, the seal is installed on both sides of the dividing profile (Photo. 3).

We assemble a combined door using dividing profiles. Before installing the main vertical profile, we also install seals at the junctions with glass.

We install the main profile on both sides of the door. The profile is attached to the chipboard with 4x25 screws, and to the connecting profile with screws, using a screwdriver (Photo 4, 5).

One profile must be fixed in a horizontal position. The second one is allowed to be fixed with a vertical position of the door (Photo 5, 6). At the same time, we pay special attention to the correct location of the front surface of the profile.

We install the handle profile from one side and the other, orienting the bend to the front side (Photo. 7). We check the tightness of the profile joints. If necessary, it is necessary to knock out with a mallet and align the mates along the length.

We install the restrictive corner of the rear door from the bottom on both sides and the running roller (without pins) of the rear door at the top from the side of the profile handle (Photo. 8).

We hang back door on the running profile.

Let's go to the front door. We are preparing a set of accessories for it:
— running roller of the front door;
- corner of the front door - 2 pcs.
- screw 4x25 - 8 pcs.;
- screw 4x16 - 10 pcs.;
- screw - 6 pcs.;
- sealant.

Continuing to make a cabinet with our own hands, let's move on to assembling the front door. It is similar to the back.

We install the handle profile on both sides, orienting the bend to the front side. We check the tightness of the profile joints. If necessary, we align the pairing along the length, knocking with a mallet. We install the corner of the front door from the bottom on both sides. We install the running roller of the front door at the top on both sides (Photo 8).

We install the door in the grooves of the profiles and adjust the level. We fix the clamps on both sides (Photo. 9). In conclusion, we install baskets and hangers on the outer and side walls. Checking the operation of the door. The process of opening and closing should be easy, without braking and unnecessary sounds.

On this, our story ends. Take your time, think over each operation in advance, work carefully and you will succeed! If you think in advance that you will not be able to make a wardrobe with your own hands, it is better to purchase a ready-made wardrobe, for example, here http://www.azbykamebeli.ru/catalogue/0000039/ there are good and not expensive models.

As usual, we are waiting for your

As you know, in the modern market there are many furniture manufacturing companies that offer wide range goods, for example, wardrobes, popular and necessary in everyday life. On the one hand, you can purchase this option at any store, entrusting its assembly to experienced craftsmen. On the other hand, a thing made by oneself is a much greater value and pride for the owner.

Let the maximum amount of time and effort be spent on this, but one cannot but agree that a do-it-yourself wardrobe will ideally meet the household needs of the owner of the house.

Deciding on the type

If you design the installation of a wardrobe in the hallway, it is important to take into account the fact that in many apartments it is small, rectangular in shape. Unlike the hinged doors of a conventional wardrobe, sliding compartment doors will save space in the best possible way.

Saving free space is important in any room, not only in the corridor, but also in the bedroom, which should always remain a zone of comfortable rest and order. If the height, at the same time, is made up to the ceiling, the usually empty space will be used with maximum benefit.

In the corner zone of the dwelling, depending on the characteristics of its total area, can accommodate an unusual and roomy radius wardrobe. Corner placement is advantageous in that a piece of furniture installed in this way will accommodate much more things than with another option.

However, it is quite difficult to manufacture, so it is better for a novice master not to take it on, but to limit himself to a simple rectangular model.

A built-in closet can be installed if there is a niche or pantry in the room. It will be functional, comfortable and aesthetically pleasing. In addition, it is much easier to make a closet from a closet on your own than to make it completely: there are already walls, a ceiling and interior space. The main task is to decide on the filling of such a cabinet, to correctly plan the dimensions, drawing and course of action.

materials

Materials should be chosen carefully, first of all thinking about strength, reliability and durability.

Wood

If we are talking about wood, then it is not suitable for creating a built-in wardrobe, because in a niche or pantry the humidity level is much higher than in a room. Any wood will quickly begin to crack and lose its natural beauty. In extreme cases, you can use it to create small components and decorative elements, but with mandatory pre-treatment with a water-polymer emulsion or drying oil.

Drywall

Recently, a very popular material is drywall. However, professional furniture assemblers do not recommend its use. This material is highly brittle and very heavy in weight.

In addition, it must be attached to some kind of solid foundation.

Shelves made of drywall quickly begin to "sag" under the weight of things, crack and deform. You can create other pieces of furniture from it, but it is absolutely not suitable for making a high-quality wardrobe.

Fiberboard, MDF and chipboard

The best options are fiberboard, MDF or laminated chipboard. It is these materials that have always been distinguished by strength and reliability, it is easy and simple to work with them, and humidity and temperature changes do not affect them. A large selection in the markets and in stores of various color shades of laminated chipboard will allow anyone to choose the desired color.

Important point: for the purpose of manufacturing cabinets, there is a certain standard for laminated chipboard sheets with a thickness of 16 mm.

Plywood

Plywood is no less versatile and durable. It also happens to be laminated, on sale you can find its varieties, which are distinguished by water resistance and insensitivity to high humidity, which is important when placing a closet in a niche or pantry.

Plywood combines both strength and malleability because it is made from soft wood species. It should be remembered that when screwing screws into it, it can be deformed, but this will not happen if you use washer-like gaskets.

Furniture panels

The sliding wardrobe can also be made from furniture panels. First of all, they are famous for their visual appeal and low price. This material is based on natural tree species, such as oak, alder, birch. When creating furniture, panels are usually combined with plywood in the following way: the frame and facade of the structure are made from them, and shelves and drawers are made from plywood.

Thickness according to the standard - 2 cm.

From an old closet that has served its time, you can make elements that may be needed when creating a new one. Sometimes chipboard sheets from outdated furniture are extremely durable: unlike many modern materials, it is impossible even to screw screws into them without first creating a special hole. In this case, old but strong chipboard panels fit perfectly inside the cabinet as durable shelves.

If a suitable material already selected, it remains to purchase ready-made sliding doors for the future cabinet. Of course, you can make them yourself, but it will cost much more than buying doors that are ready for installation. Should be found good company manufacturer of sliding doors, and place an order there, specifying the size of the opening and the number of panels.

In order for sliding doors to serve as long as possible, it is imperative to purchase a self-adhesive seal. Its main purpose is not only fastening profiles in grooves. If the seal good quality, it will prevent the penetration of dust, and the cabinet doors will move absolutely silently.

Description of drawings

Before starting the assembly of any piece of furniture, it is necessary to create a certain scheme in the form of a drawing. The dimensions should be carefully verified, with the obligatory indication of all the parameters of both the outside and inside the structure, while be sure to indicate the thickness of each partition.

When drawing up a drawing, it is important to observe certain size standards in advance: for example, it is recommended to leave the optimal distance between shelves at 30-40 cm, and the depth of the drawer should be no more than 50-55 cm.

Before creating a drawing, it is necessary to determine the main characteristics that the future wardrobe will have:

• height, width and depth;
• the height of the mezzanines, if they are planned;
• how many doors, drawers and other departments will be in the closet;
• what filling is planned: boxes, crossbars, shelves, etc.

After that, a sketch of the future cabinet is drawn. If you have experience and the ability to draw, you can make a drawing yourself, simply using a piece of paper. There is also a simple solution for those who are not good at drawing: special computer programs, in which it will be enough just to enter certain data, and the computer will produce a ready-made full-fledged drawing. The quality and accuracy of such a drawing is so high that with its help you can safely begin to assemble the cabinet yourself.

Step-by-step instruction

Room measurements and calculation

First, using a tape measure, three horizontal dimensions of the niche are determined from the outside: at the top, in the middle and at the bottom. Then the same three measurements are taken according to back wall. This is necessary in order to understand what size future shelves will have to cut out. Further, similar dimensions (in front and along the back wall of the niche) are taken vertically in height: the left edge, middle and right edge.

This helps to understand what the overall size picture will be.

It is important to remember that measurement errors are quite common. It is determined by the quality of the construction of the house and the alignment of the walls. The dimensions should be recorded in the drawing with all the errors in order to make the calculations as accurately as possible.

At this stage, you need to finally decide on the detailing of the cabinet. What and where will be located, how many sliding facades are planned to be installed, how many departments in total, whether there will be open corner shelves in the closet, whether a backlit canopy is needed.

Since it is about small closet, which is located in the hallway, you can immediately decide what and where to put. Outdoor shoes can simply be placed on the floor in a niche, without the use of shelves made of chipboard or other material. It is also advisable to think over the internal filling of the cabinet in advance: the number of compartments for clothes, drawers, shelves, rods for hangers.

All measurements must be made taking into account the thickness of all materials used.

It is important not to forget to carefully put down the dimensions between the shelves. If the niche is curved, then the shelves will need to be made with an allowance in order to accurately fit the dimensions of the walls. The dimensions of each part should be painted, taking into account the plastic edge (PVC, usually 2 mm).

Well, if the installation happens quickly, without unnecessary adjustments.

Cut and fittings

With a strong desire, you can cut out the details yourself, but there is no need for this. It is better to give the finished drawing to the production workshop, where all the components for the cabinet will be made exactly according to the specified dimensions. Therefore, the drawing must be drawn up as accurately and correctly as possible, and at a proven reliable furniture factory, all the necessary elements for the upcoming assembly will be cut according to it.

As for fittings, there will also be no problems with its purchase now: it is presented in a large assortment in large construction or specialized stores. Here is a sample list of what you might need when making a simple built-in cabinet:

• debel and self-tapping screws,
• gaskets for soft installation self-tapping screws,
• furniture corners (preferably metal),
• hanger bar with bar holders (if the cabinet is small, one will be enough),
• hooks, clips for attaching shoe shelves.

Construction assembly and installation

Since this is not a cabinet, but a built-in wardrobe, the top and side panels of which replace the walls, you can start right away with determining the place for the shelves. Several marks are made on the wall with a pencil, and the shelves themselves are fastened using mounting brackets.

It is better if they are metal, not plastic: the first and durable, and look very aesthetically pleasing. Corners are fastened with dowels and self-tapping screws.

If the cabinet has shelves whose length exceeds 800 mm, they need additional fastening, otherwise, over time, any material may bend under the weight of things. Therefore, on the back wall of the shelf should be reinforced with metal corners.

The hanging rod is attached to the wall with the help of special round rod holders. Each of them has three holes, and fastening to the wall is carried out with dowels and self-tapping screws.

At the bottom, you can install a mesh-type shoe shelf. It is attached using special hooks or clips, set to the desired level after first marking its location with a pencil.

Then you need to fix the shelf along the side front walls with metal corners.

If the room has stretch ceiling, for the competent combination of such a ceiling and a wardrobe, you will need to put a mortgage between them in the form of a beam up to 100 mm wide.

Installation of sliding doors

As already noted, the ceiling is not always smooth and ideal. Therefore, the first task when installing the top guide for sliding doors is to align it and install it clearly horizontally. To do this, you will need to lay linings of various thicknesses between the guide and the ceiling.

You can make them from MDF. The resulting gap in the conclusion is closed with a frieze made of chipboard 8 mm thick.

Now you need to measure the height of the niche on the left and right in order to calculate the possible slope of the floor or ceiling, as well as the obstruction of the walls. Having established the difference in size, you need to take the MDF spacers again and put them between the rail and the ceiling. Only now, already through all the installed gaskets, it is possible to finally fix the upper guide. Drill a hole in the ceiling, hammer in the dowel, then the guide is finally attached to the ceiling with screws.

When trying on the frieze, it is important to make allowances in order to adjust all the details to size already during installation. Attach the frieze to the gap, mark the desired lines with a pencil and cut along them. You can glue the frieze to the guide using double-sided tape. In order for the adhesive tape to hold well, it is necessary to first degrease the glued surface with alcohol. Then stick vertical strips of tape on the surface, remove the protective film from it and stick the frieze to the top rail.

The bottom rail for cabinet doors is also attached with double-sided tape. This will ensure its smooth and soft running - the doors will move silently, with minimal wear on the rollers. The doors themselves must be inserted into the upper and lower rails that are ready for use and adjusted.

Detailed instructions on the assembly and installation of compartment doors can be viewed in the following video.

So that when creating a cabinet you are not limited to standard rectangular shapes, you can apply creative ingenuity to work with such a soft and pliable material as plywood. You can create a smooth and unusual shape of a shelf or other element of a piece of furniture by moistening a sheet of plywood with water and placing it on a special form - a blank. Within 12-14 hours, the sheet will acquire the desired smooth shape and will be ready for use.

In addition, there is the easiest and most straightforward way to attach cabinet shelves using pieces of the most common plinth. MDF plinth is distinguished by increased strength, sometimes not inferior in reliability to metal fittings. In order for such fasteners of the shelf not to be too conspicuous, the plinth segment can be made one third shorter than the depth of the shelf, and its end cut obliquely.

The self-tapping screw, farthest from the edge of the shelf, in this case will have to be screwed from above, through the shelf board.

The use of stained glass technology for decoration

The door panels of the wardrobe can be decorated with a stained glass window. The cost of manufacturing such facade decorations is different, it directly depends on the degree of complexity of the technology used. In any case, inexpensive options for stained glass cabinet design will also look great, but subject to their high-quality workmanship.

There are three main types of stained-glass windows that are most often used for decoration:

• Classic stained glass. It will look best when framed by a wooden or metal frame. Glasses can be with any pattern or different colors. The manufacturing process of such a stained-glass window is very labor intensive, which provides it with both prestige and a rather high price.
• Tiffany. Its difference from the classic stained-glass window is that it is possible to use this option if there is no frame on the facade. In this case, the drawing is more intricate and original. Technically, it is no less complicated than the classic, but aesthetically very beautiful. Even its apparent fragility may not be considered a serious disadvantage compared to its beauty.
• Filling type of stained-glass window. It is also called contour. One of the popular imitations of expensive Tiffany, performed on a large glass canvas. Such a stained-glass window, due to its simpler manufacturing technique and low price, is the most popular among consumers. It is resistant to external damage and very practical, which allows it to be successfully used to decorate the most simple options furniture.

Sandblasted drawings on mirrors

If the facade of the wardrobe is made in the form of a mirror coating or glass, you can apply a beautiful sandblasted pattern to it. This is an abrasive type of surface treatment using sand sprayed using a special apparatus under a certain air pressure.

This technology provides any furniture with unique and realistic drawings that have volume and texture. Once upon a time, when there were no sandblasting machines, in the ancient Roman Empire, a similar glass processing was carried out manually using a flat stone: they rubbed sea sand over the surface of the glass.

The sandblasted image is porous and, unfortunately, can easily get dirty. This is its only drawback, which can be dealt with by protecting the surface of the pattern with varnish or a special solution, which includes polymer components.

Vinyl stickers

Excellent and most easy way decorate the facade of the wardrobe, if there is no financial opportunity to order stained glass or sandblasting. Typically, these stickers look like transparent wallpaper. In their manufacture, a special film is used. Thanks to its transparency and monochromatic pattern, you can easily match the sticker to the color of any cabinet.

Replace an old boring sticker with a new one at any time - it can be easily removed without leaving marks on the mirror or glass.

Are there many things and pieces of furniture in your house that you can easily refuse? Surely enough. However, they do not include such a piece of furniture as a wardrobe.

After all, it is in it that you store most of your clothes, towels and bedding. And so it is almost impossible to do without it.

Of course, it is possible to replace it with cabinets and chests of drawers. But their number will be so great that the space of the room will be completely cluttered. Not everyone can afford this.

Many people live in fairly small apartments in which every centimeter free space should be rationally used, so do not forget that you can order modern wardrobes with delivery and assembly from our partners.

But often the cost of such important products is unreasonably high. And so some people are forced to refuse to buy cabinets.

But experts are sure that a way out of this situation can be found. For example, to make this product yourself.

If you are wondering how to make a wardrobe with your own hands, then we recommend that you read this article. In it, we will take a closer look at the simplest assembly example, which even a novice carpenter with no experience can handle.

Closet detail

For the manufacture of the cabinet, we will use a material such as chipboard. The thickness of one of its boards is 18 mm. In addition to the base material, a self-adhesive melamine edge with a thickness of about 0.5 mm will also be used. The product will be equipped with a standard sliding system for facades.

Edge can be purchased at furniture store. It is worth noting that to design a built-in wardrobe with your own hands, you may need a special sliding mechanism.

Most often, it is not easy to find a similar one in a regular store. Then you will need to order it. However, even in this case, the facade system will cost you much less than if you purchased a finished product.

The cabinet, which will be considered as an example, has a height of 2288 mm, and its width is 1166 mm.

Necessary tools and materials

Before you start making a cabinet, you should make sure that you have all the necessary materials and toolkit. You can find out the number of boards and parts if you carefully consider the drawing of the cabinet, which is presented to your attention below.

The standard set of tools required for carpentry to create a cabinet includes: a drill, a level, a puncher, a measuring tape, a hammer, glue, a hacksaw and connecting elements.

Self-tapping screws and dowels act as connecting elements. We draw your attention to the fact that a hacksaw should be selected one that is suitable for both wood and metal.

The bars that will be used under the coat hanger must be sawn off from a single structure. Their diameter should not exceed 22 mm for the declared dimensions of the product.

If you are not sure that you can make them correctly on your own, then the best option would be to buy. You can buy them in a store that specializes in selling furniture fittings.

You can also buy pens in the store. When buying them, pay attention to the design. It should correspond not only to the manufactured product, but also to the overall interior design.

Note!

Manufacturing steps

At the first stage, you need to prepare all the details. Pay attention to the photo of the cabinet, made by hand, which is presented below. A circular saw was used to create it, as it made it possible to cut the boards most accurately and accurately.

At the second stage, you should do the preparation of the edges. To stick them, you need to use a regular iron and follow the instructions.

At the third stage, grinding is performed. With its help, you will get rid of the roughness existing after cutting. To do this, you can use the usual sandpaper with fine grains.

At the fourth stage, you should start collecting boxes. An assembly example is shown in the figure.

At the fifth stage, the entire structure is assembled.

Note!

It is worth noting that the assembly of the cabinet itself is no different from the assembly of drawers. After all, the cabinet itself differs from the drawers only in its size.

In order to perform a screed on confirmations, you will need to use a hex bit. If you don’t have one at hand, you can use an ordinary manual key. However, it will take you more time to work.

Fastening the rails under the doors should be done using self-tapping screws, which have a size of 4 by 16 mm. In place, the distance between the front edge of the bottom and the sidewalls of the product should also be measured.

Be sure to make sure that the product is equipped with a high-quality system that will eliminate the possibility of cracks. This is extremely important if you plan to corner cupboard with your own hands, as any gaps will be noticeable.

DIY cabinet photo

Note!