How to plaster walls. How to quickly learn how to plaster walls in a new building or an old house at home: do-it-yourself rough and high-quality plaster options. Preparation and quality plastering of wooden walls

29.10.2019

Cooking on hot coals has long been a tradition of summer holiday lovers. For cooking on charcoal, a variety of designs are used, the most popular of which are barbecue, barbecue and grill. In addition, today an unusual device for a European look and understanding is gaining more and more popularity - a Central Asian oven called "tandoor".

The peoples of Central Asia (especially the people of Uzbekistan) cook many dishes in the tandoor: Uzbek flatbread, shish kebab, meat called "tandyr-gusht" (meat from the tandoor), poultry and Uzbek puff pastry called "samsa". The taste of food cooked in the tandoor is unforgettable. That is why many Russians want to build a tandoor in the country with their own hands.

Tandoor device

Before designing and building this structure, it is necessary to carefully study the device of the tandoor. With your own hands, without experience and understanding of how this furnace works, it will be very difficult to build it.

A tandoor is a hollow earthenware jug that tapers upwards. In the center of the upper part of this device there is a large hole where the coal and the dishes that will be cooked there are placed. In the lower part there is a blower with a special damper that provides traction. The clay base of the tandoor is often lined with bricks to improve thermal insulation. Materials that accumulate heat are poured between brick and clay: salt, sand or clay.

The principle of operation of the traditional Uzbek tandoor

When coal is burned, the walls of the tandoor heat up to a temperature of 250 ° C to 400 ° C. The high temperature in such an oven can be maintained for up to 6 hours, due to the good thermal insulation properties of clay. As long as the oven temperature remains high, you can cook any food. Food is cooked by heat transfer inside the tandoor. Due to the even temperature inside, the dishes are cooked evenly and very high quality.

Only after studying this information, you can proceed to find the answer to the question of how to build a tandoor with your own hands in a country house.

Classification of tandoor types

The shape of the tandoor are:

horizontal;
vertical.

Also divided by scope:

Construction methods

In accordance with the traditional Central Asian technology, the tandoor is not built by hand, but is molded from kaolin clay of Akhangaran origin. Akhangaran is a small city in Uzbekistan, which has been famous for its soil since ancient times. In order to protect the furnace from the appearance of cracks from the inside under the action of high temperature, it is necessary to add to kaolin clay not a large number of camel or sheep wool. To mold a classic Uzbek clay tandoor with your own hands, you need to have patience and sufficient skill. The thing is that the oriental modeling masters do not disclose the exact composition of the clay, therefore, when building such an unusual furnace, you will have to experiment and do a lot by eye.

Approximate construction technology

As mentioned earlier, each master has his own secret of building a tandoor, which remains a secret and is passed on only to family members. That is why the question of how to make a tandoor with your own hands does not have an exact answer. But an approximate technology for sculpting a furnace looks like this:

Kaolin clay is mixed with wool, cut into thin fibers 10-15 mm long. A mixture of clay and wool should turn out to be viscous, similar to sour cream.
The mixture made in order to build a tandoor oven with your own hands should stand for a week in a dark place. This is done so that the clay composition dries evenly. All week you need to monitor the mixture. If water accumulates on top, it is better to drain it, and mix the composition without water. But at the same time, one must also take into account the fact that the less water in the mixture, the more likely it is that the tandoor will soon become covered with cracks.
A week after settling the mixture, you can begin to sculpt small sheets from 5 to 15 cm thick from the resulting clay plasticine. A tandoor is formed from them. The classical dimensions of such a furnace have long been known: height 1-1.5 m, diameter to the narrowed part - 1 m, diameter of the hole - 50-60 cm.
The molded product should be left to dry for at least a few weeks.
After complete drying, you need to overlay the clay walls with bricks. The mortar for fixing the bricks will be kaolin clay. Sand, clay or salt should be poured between the walls of the tandoor and a layer of bricks.
Inside cooking tool delicious dishes must be carefully coated with cottonseed oil.
After that, you can start firing the tandoor. The firing temperature rises gradually and very slowly. The entire firing process can take up to two days. Such a slow process is due to the fact that with the rapid firing of clay, cracks may appear on it.

A simplified way to build a tandoor

Many of those who already know how to build a tandoor with their own hands admit that it is very difficult to build it without experience and skills. As a result, it turns out to be uneven, and when fired, it begins to crack. That is why the craftsmen created a simplified version of such a miracle oven. It is called simplified because it is formed around a wooden barrel, which allows it to maintain its even shape.

To build a simplified tandoor with your own hands, the drawings of which can be found if desired (they are freely available), you will need the following materials: kaolin, fireclay sand, wool, a wooden barrel with metal hoops and vegetable oil.

The barrel needs to be filled with water and left for several days so that the tree is soaked and swollen. Next, the clay must be mixed with sand and wool in the following proportion: for 1 unit of clay, 2 units of sand and 0.05 wool. The mixture should be allowed to stand for several days. After that, water is drained from the barrel, and a thick layer of vegetable oil is applied to its inner surface.

After the clay mixture has settled, it can be applied to inner part barrels in a thick layer (5-7 cm). When the barrel is completely covered with clay, you need to leave the tandoor in a dry place in the shade to dry out for up to one month. In the process of drying, wooden staves will begin to move away from the barrel. When they move away completely, you can remove the metal hoops and free the finished tandoor from the barrel.

The installation of the furnace is carried out on a thick layer of sand. After this procedure, you need to carry out another one - firing. To do this, a weak fire is made inside the tandoor, which should burn for about 6 hours. After this time, the stove is covered with a lid and a strong fire is turned on. That's all, you can brag to your friends that you made a simplified tandoor with your own hands. They will surely be happy to try the dishes cooked in your new miracle oven!

We make a brick tandoor with our own hands

As mentioned above, the Central Asian oven, made by beginners, will crack very quickly and lose its original shape. It is for this that everyone who wants to have this unique thing is offered an easier way - to build a tandoor with their own hands from brick.

This will require the following materials:

oven mixture for laying bricks;
kaolin clay;
sand, concrete and reinforcing mesh for foundation construction;
frame template made of wood.

To build the foundation of a brick tandoor, you need to dig a round hole with a diameter slightly larger than the future product. At the bottom of the pit, a pillow of sand 10-20 cm thick is prepared. metal grid from wire and fittings. Next, concrete is poured in. It is necessary to ensure that the concrete layer is even and horizontal. After pouring concrete, you need to wait a week for it to grab the surface and gain strength.

After a week, you can start laying bricks, which is done in a circle of a predetermined diameter of the tandoor. Usually the diameter of the tandoor is 1 m. Bricks are installed on the end, on the basis of a wooden template frame, the circle of the future tandoor is formed. Further brick laying is carried out using a mortar prepared on the basis of a refractory mixture (it consists of quartz sand, kaolite clay and plasticizers). Such a solution has a high level of refractoriness, and it is also ductile and does not crack during firing. At the bottom of the tandoor you need to leave a hole for the blower. An ordinary chimney can be used as a blower.

After laying the brick, the tandoor must be coated with a 5-cm layer of kaolite clay from the inside and outside. To give the stove an aesthetic appearance, you can trim it with multi-colored stones from the outside.

After that, the brick tandoor is fired. To do this, you need to kindle a fire inside and gradually increase the temperature to 400 ° C.

From a plastic barrel

To build this type of tandoor you will need plastic barrel habitual form. As in the case of building a product based on a wooden barrel, a plastic vessel must be filled with water in order for the barrel to increase in size. Then, a fireclay solution is applied to its outer side, rammed and smoothed. It is recommended to carry out the operation of tamping and smoothing until a clear contour of the tandoor is formed. Next, you need to let the creation dry for several weeks. When the drying process is completed, the water is drained from the barrel, and the barrel itself is removed from the clay mold.

Pit (earthen) tandoor oven

have been described above different technologies and options with which you can build a tandoor with your own hands. Another very interesting variety of the Uzbek stove is the so-called pit or earthen tandoor, which is built in a pit dug specially for this purpose.

The construction technology is as follows:

First you need to dig a hole in the ground and lead a pipe to it, through which the air necessary to maintain the fire will flow into the tandoor itself.
One row of bricks is laid at the bottom of the pit, the seams of which are covered with kaolite clay. After that, a pipe is placed in the pit at an angle of 45 °. The pipe should be installed so that its lower edge is 5 cm from brickwork.
The walls are built of brickwork. The brick must be laid so that the inner diameter of the tandoor is 50 cm, and its depth is at least three rows of brickwork. Seams formed during bricklaying should also be covered with kaolite clay.
The top row of brickwork should be coated with a layer of clay. The clay composition is recommended to be applied using a reinforced mesh.
Next, a tandoor dome is built, which must be at least 2 cm thick. For this, a basin is taken. For the strength of the structure, it is necessary to reinforce the mesh. After that, you need to coat with clay and let dry well. When the clay has dried, the dome is removed and placed on the foundation pit.
The seams formed when connecting the dome and bricks are covered with kaolite clay.
Now you need to make a hatch for the pipe to block the air during the furnace. At the end, around the dome, you need to fill in a mixture of expanded clay and cement mortar.

Following this technology will allow you to build an earthen tandoor with your own hands. You can see a photo of such a product in the article. Before construction, you should carefully study what an earthen Uzbek oven looks like.

Dishes that can be prepared

After the manufacture of the tandoor with your own hands has been successfully completed, you can think about the dishes that are prepared in the tandoor. In land-based types of ovens, Uzbek cakes and pies are mainly made from lamb and potatoes called “samsa”.

Traditional Uzbek dishes are made in pit tandoors, such as:

tandoor-gusht (lamb meat languishing in an underground tandoor for about three days);
chicken fillet;
kebabs;
some varieties of Uzbek pilaf;
leg of lamb;
tandoor kebab;
sausages in the tandoor;
ham in tandoor;
classic kebab.

In addition, after the construction of the tandoor, lovers of culinary delights are given room for imagination. One has only to remember that in such an oven you can cook absolutely all vegetables and types of meat, as well as some dough products. And large pieces of meat can be successfully cooked only in such a device. It all depends on how skillful the person who cooks in this wonderful Uzbek oven, which appeared in ancient times and is still in use.

Additional accessories needed for cooking

To prepare some types of dishes in the tandoor, you may need some equipment. For example:

a round hanger with a hook to hold the meat;
grooves for holding a round suspension;
a metal frame attached to the suspension (it is needed in order to make it convenient to hook bowls to the tandoor).

These accessories will help you cook delicious and high-quality food in an oriental oven.

Use in different countries

The tandoor is used in many countries of the East, however, it is the Uzbek tandoor that is considered canonical. In other states, there are also curious facts related to the use of this furnace.

So, only earthen tandoor is popular in Azerbaijan. Previously, with its help, not only cooked various dishes, but also heated living quarters in the cold season.

In India, the tandoor is called "tandoor". The design itself is used for cooking exclusively meat dishes. Tandoori chicken is considered the most popular Indian dish cooked in the tandoor.

In Central Asia, both ordinary and earthen tandoors are used in the same amount. Each type has different dishes.

In the Caucasian countries, as well as in Iran, the tandoor is used as an oven for making traditional lavash.

Above are some of the most popular ways to build such a device yourself. The methods and options for construction given in the article most fully answer the question of how to make a tandoor with your own hands. Of course, there are more complicated options, but they are made only in some villages of Central Asia, and the design and materials are kept in the strictest confidence from all strangers.

The tandoor oven is a multifunctional device. And most importantly, not only specialists can build it. Self-construction of the furnace is also possible.

What is a tandoor

The tandoor is a large clay cauldron, turned upside down, in the bottom of which there is a small hole.
The clay part of the furnace is lined with bricks from the outside, and the space between the brick and the edge of the vessel is filled with clay, sand or salt. They help keep the heat in.
The design of this is such that in its lower part there should be a hole for blowing.

How it works

For such a stove, a small amount of fuel is enough - firewood or branches. In Asia, saxaul is most often used for kindling. It is placed on the bottom, set on fire and allowed to burn to coals. After the firewood has burned out, you can start baking bread or cooking.

During kindling, all the heat is absorbed by the walls - and the clay boiler, and a kind of layer, and brick wall. When heated, the oven begins to give off heat. This ensures a long-lasting, even temperature that contributes to excellent cooking, both roasting and simmering.

What is needed for the construction

In order to make such an oven, you will need:

bricks - refractory and facing;
sand;
clay;
cement;
grate.

A real tandoor is made from slightly different materials, however, in modern conditions, the listed components are best suited for this.

Assembly technology

Initially, the type of tandoor is selected - ordinary (ground) or earthen, horizontal or vertical. The most common ovens are vertical.

The assembly technology of ground or earth type is different.

The ground structure is built as follows:

Construction of a vertical tandoor photo:

Video

Another option for building a tandoor is presented in the video:

The earthen tandoor is assembled as follows:

It is necessary to prepare a pit for the furnace, based on the fact that the height will be 1.2 m plus the foundation. The bottom, or foundation, is laid out of brick in one layer. An asbestos-cement pipe is brought to the prepared foundation, which is a kind of blowing. The edge of the pipe should be located among the bricks of the first row.
From above, the masonry must be covered with clay. The tandoor is assembled in a similar way, except for the outer brick cladding. The soil will act as a lining here.

The walls of the furnace itself must be laid out of refractory bricks, with the bricks shifted inward to form an upper cone-shaped dome. Outside, the masonry should be coated with clay, and after it dries, the space between the soil and the walls should be carefully covered with clay and sand. The furnace must also be tempered with fire.

Construction of an earthen tandoor photo:

You can build a tandoor with your own hands in the country in a few weeks, after which you can enjoy the dishes cooked in this unusual brazier.

After all, the tandoor oven allows you to cook food with a special exotic taste.

Over open hot coals, Asians have adapted to cook almost everything. National dishes, from donuts and flatbreads to pieces of juicy fried meat.

The ancient stove of the peoples of Asia, despite the advances in technology, has not been forgotten. On the contrary, her popularity grew outside her homeland and reached us.

To understand how to make a tandoor in the country with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself in detail with the device and the principle of operation of the furnace.

Of course, you can buy an electric tandoor and not bother with construction.

But if you build such a clay brazier with your own hands, it will become pride and original decoration suburban area.

Only if the tandoor did not work out with your own hands, then you can think about purchasing its electrical counterpart.

The design and operation features of the furnace

A tandoor oven is an almost flat clay vessel narrowing upwards with a hole through which fuel is placed and dishes are placed for cooking.

The draft is provided by a blower with a shut-off damper specially arranged at the bottom of the base.

The increase in the thermal insulation properties of the stove occurs due to the brick, which is used to finish the clay base, and natural material capable of storing heat.

As it is used clay, sand or salt.

Such a device of the tandoor oven allows the combustible fuel to heat the walls up to 400 ° C and subsequently keep the temperature for four hours.

This time is enough to prepare any dish.

Powerful heat transfer directed inside the tandoor and a stable temperature make it possible to evenly bake bread, fry meat to a crisp, and make pilaf fragrant and crumbly.

Creating a tandoor with your own hands in the country can be done in several ways. Consider three options at once, which differ in the level of complexity of the structure.

But in any case, laying down such a furnace on the ground will not be particularly difficult even for a non-professional.

Classic brick tandoor

If you build a brick tandoor with your own hands using ancient classical technology, then you will have an almost real national oven in your dacha that can glorify your culinary skills.

Why "almost" real?

As a rule, masters always keep their secrets to themselves, so it will not be possible to build an exact copy of a brick oven. By studying the ancient technology of building a tandoor, you can find out several important things.

Firstly, the manufacture of the base of the tandoor oven requires the use of kaolin clay from the Akhangaran source. It is she who has excellent thermal insulation properties.

Secondly, the addition of sheep or camel wool to the clay allows eliminating cracking of the inside of the furnace.

The knowledge of modern masters is limited to these facts, since none of them knows the exact composition of the kaolin solution.

The construction of a classic brick tandoor stove is as follows:

Kaolin is combined and mixed with wool, at the output the composition should get a viscosity and look like thick sour cream. The prepared mixture is set aside for a week, in order to dry it evenly, for this the composition is periodically mixed. The water settled on the surface of the mixture is drained. The less water in the kaolin, the stronger the structure of the finish will become. A stove built from such material will not crack during the firing process. After the allotted time, the composition should acquire properties similar to plasticine, after which it will become malleable for modeling;
From the prepared clay, flat strips with a thickness of 5 cm are formed. Moving in a circle, with their help, they begin to sculpt the tandoor with their own hands. The classical height of the vessel is from 1 to 1.5 m; neck with a diameter of 0.5 to 0.6 m; the diameter to the narrowing of the container is 1 m. A hole is left in the lower part of the base, which will be used under the blower;
The half-finished tandoor is left to dry in the shade. It takes about 30 days for the vessel to do this;
At the next stage, the furnace is covered with a brick casing. It is necessary to use fireclay bricks, specially designed for lining the internal surfaces of stoves and fireplaces. The space between clay and brick is gradually filled with any heat-retaining material (salt, sand, clay), ramming each layer;
The inner walls of the clay vessel are coated with cottonseed oil;
At the final stage, the tandoor oven is fired until a ceramic state is obtained. During firing, the temperature is raised gradually. The process lasts about a day, as a sharp heating of the raw clay will cause cracks.

A simplified process for creating a classic tandoor

You can make a simplified version of the classic tandoor in the country on the basis of a wooden barrel. This method was invented for inexperienced craftsmen.

And this was done, probably, by the same inexperienced specialist, who could not form an even vessel from clay strips.

Making an Asian stove will require the following materials:

kaolin clay;
wooden barrel with metal rims;
fireclay sand (0.5 mm fraction);
vegetable oil;
wool of sheep or camel.

Step-by-step device for a tandoor oven based on a barrel

To create an Armenian tandoor from a barrel, you must use the instructions from this paragraph of the article.

A wooden barrel is completely filled with water and left for 24 hours to swell the wood. Sand, clay and wool are mixed in a ratio of 1:2:0.05.

The mixture is left for a couple of days until plasticity is achieved. After that, water is removed from the barrel, the tree is allowed to dry well.

The inner walls of the barrel are lubricated with oil, allowed to soak, leaving overnight.

The walls of the wooden container are lined from the inside with a plastic kaolin mixture, with a layer thickness of about 5 cm. Wetting the hands in water, the surface is smoothed until the walls are smooth and even.

To make the neck of the tandoor narrower, the thickness of the clay layer evenly increases upwards. At the bottom of the future vessel, a hole is left for the blower.

It will take at least a month for the tandoor to fully ripen, during which time the clay vessel will begin to gradually peel off wooden walls OK.

After that, metal rims are removed from the barrel and the almost finished tandoor is freed from the tree.

For the purpose of firing, the kiln is placed on a layer of sand and the first firebox is produced. Having laid the minimum amount of fuel in the tandoor, a weak fire is lit, gradually adding combustible material.

For six hours, the tandoor should slowly warm up. Then the fire is made stronger, heating is brought to the maximum temperature increase.

The earthen vessel is covered with a lid and allowed to cool slowly.

To enhance the thermal insulation properties, the clay container is lined with bricks, an insulating layer is made as in the first version of the furnace.

Modern way of making tandoor

Having started the construction of a refractory brick tandoor in the country, you can be sure of getting a 100% result.

Unlike the classic manufacturing option, such an oven will not fall apart into pieces even at the beginning of drying.

Of course, such an oven appearance will differ from the national Asian oven, but because of this, the taste of the dishes cooked in it will not become worse.

To build brick tandoor, you need to stock up:

oven refractory bricks;
clay mixture for masonry;
kaolin clay;
sifted sand;
reinforcing mesh;
concrete mix for the device of the foundation;
template wooden frame.

Step-by-step device of a brick tandoor

Pouring the foundation for a brick tandoor:

To build a foundation in the ground, make a round hole 40-50 cm deep with a diameter slightly larger than the base of the future furnace. Sand 10 cm thick is poured at the bottom of the pit, reinforcing material is laid on top of it;
After arranging the pit, everything is poured with a concrete mixture, leveled with a building rule. At the same time, do not forget to control the horizontalness of the surface using a level. After the horizontal foundation has completely set and dried (it will take at least a week), you can start building brick walls.

Construction of refractory brick walls:

Using a template-frame, the brick is laid in a circle of the foundation in an end way. The components of the refractory mortar for masonry are: fine quartz sand, plasticizers, a certain amount of clay;
The second row of the end masonry of the tandoor provides a hole for a metal window, which will later play the role of a blower. For this purpose, you can use a chimney;
For the construction of the walls of the tandoor, four rows of vertical brickwork are sufficient. Through the use of a wooden template, the rows will gradually narrow upwards. To achieve this, the final row of masonry must be performed with a noticeable inward slope. The result should be a tandoor with a height of 1 - 1.2 m;
outdoor and inner walls A practically finished brazier is coated with kaolin clay, the layer thickness of which must be at least 5 cm. For an aesthetic appearance, the tandoor is lined with natural stone from the outside.

The firing of the kiln is carried out by making a weak fire inside the tandoor and gradually raising the temperature, as was done above for the classic versions of the kilns.

Of course, the construction of a tandoor is a troublesome and lengthy process. But the efforts expended will not be in vain, because as a result you will have a real Asian oven.

This is a great opportunity to surprise your loved ones and guests with dishes prepared original way. Our building tips will help you with this.

Unfortunately, the quality of their finishes is often such that it is impossible to wallpaper or paint without preliminary work. The best solution in most cases. We offer detailed complete instructions on the walls with your own hands. It will help even a novice master to cope with difficult work.

Varieties of plaster mixes

Two types of materials are used to level surfaces. Their main difference lies in the basis on which all the characteristics of the solution depend. It could be:

cement;
gypsum.

Quartz sand of different grain sizes, plasticizers and other fillers are added to the base, which determine the purpose of the plaster paste. So, coarse sand allows you to level significant differences, while fine sand is used only for applying the last layer, covering small roughness.

Let's look at the pros and cons of each type of material.

Cement compositions

Differ in special durability, resistance to mechanical influences. They are not afraid of moisture, they can be used in rooms with special conditions: kitchens and. They do not collapse from temperature changes, are durable, have a low cost and can be made by hand. Even significant differences are well leveled. If a layer with a thickness of more than 20 mm is applied, a reinforcing mesh must be used.

Lime, clay, gypsum can be used as fillers, giving plasticity, antiseptic properties. Of the shortcomings, it should be noted a large mass of cement mortars. They give a significant load on the base, which must be taken into account. Low ductility leads to shrinkage and possible cracking. For the same reason, laying such a paste is quite difficult. Moreover, it does not fit all grounds. Cement dries for a long time, completely hardens only after a month.

Gypsum mixes

The main advantage is plasticity and ease of application. The paste fits well on any base and adheres firmly to it. Gypsum is lightweight. Even a thick layer of such a mass will not make the structure heavier. It never shrinks, practically does not crack. Dries much faster than the cement counterpart. The finishing mass is so good that subsequent puttying is most often not necessary.

The most significant disadvantage of the material is hygroscopicity. Gypsum easily absorbs water, soaks and collapses. Therefore, use gypsum varieties for outdoors or indoors with high humidity forbidden. Moisture-resistant mixtures for interior styling are available, but they should also be used with caution. The disadvantages include the high cost of the material and the inability to self-manufacturing.

How to plaster walls: the choice of tools and material

To make it clear to the novice master what is required for the work, we list everything you need.

, plaster or cement. We choose depending on the purpose of the premises and our own skills. It is easier for a beginner to work with plaster, but it is more expensive and can only be used for dry rooms.
Suitable primer. It is necessary for the preparation of the foundation.
Beacons. They are installed in case of large drops and the presence of significant irregularities on the surface.
Long rule. If it is planned to install beacons, we choose a length of 250 cm, 200 cm will be enough to pull the solution.
Bubble level 200 cm long and plumb line.
Wide spatula and trowel for applying the mixture.
A special construction grater and a metal iron to eliminate roughness.
Bucket and perforator with a special nozzle for mixing plaster paste.

In addition, you may need to fix the beacons, a tape measure for accurate marking.

Further actions will vary depending on the material to be worked with.

Concrete

Such a base is quite smooth, in order to improve its adhesion to the mortar, it is recommended to make notches. They are performed at a small distance from each other, deepened by 10-15 mm. Then they cover everything with a primer. Given the hardness, the work will be very laborious. Therefore, you can do otherwise: prime it with a special primer. Choosing an adhesive primer deep penetration.

It contains sand, which, after drying, should remain on the base. Sometimes this technique does not work well, so it is recommended to test the primer before plastering. They treat a small area and wait until it dries completely. Then they pass by hand. If the roughness is well felt and the sand does not crumble, the entire surface is treated. Otherwise, notches are made.

Brick

Despite the fact that it is quite rough on its own, it is recommended to go over the cleaned material with a grinder or a wire brush. The seams between the bricks must be expanded, so the mixture can get into them, which will improve the adhesion of the plaster. Then the dust is removed first with a brush, and then with a damp cloth. Finally, two coats of primer are applied.

Wood

In order for the plaster mass to be firmly fixed on wooden base, it is necessary to equip the crate. It is made from slats, which are also called shingles. Elements are nailed diagonally. It is important to use only high-quality shingles, additionally treated with an antiseptic. Otherwise, it will quickly rot and destroy the coating.

To make the task easier, you can use a chain-link mesh instead. It is nailed to the slats that fit between the base and. They, like shingles, can serve as beacons in the alignment process. In this case, the elements are set strictly according to the level. All wooden details treated with an antiseptic and dried well, only after that it is possible to plaster the crate.

Beacon application technology

It is used to equalize significant differences. Metal guides are used as guidelines that will show how the walls are. Don't skimp on buying them. High-quality metal can subsequently be left inside the base, and it will not rust over time. Parts of dubious quality are best removed, which is quite laborious.

Guides are installed along the entire length of the wall at a distance of about 150 cm from one another. Such a distance is chosen so that during the alignment process the rule moves along two adjacent profiles. They are set strictly according to the level and securely fixed to the base. The easiest way to do this is to use a gypsum mortar, which sets quickly and holds the elements securely. You can mount on self-tapping screws, but it is more difficult.

Then getting ready plaster mortar. This must be done in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Next, proceed to plastering:

Sketch. Pour the mixture onto the base. You can do this manually, with a trowel or with a special device if mechanized laying is expected. A thick paste is drawn onto the tool and with some effort “splashes” onto the base. A layer about 5 mm thick is placed on concrete, and 8-9 mm on wood. We put the rule on the beacons and stretch the coating from bottom to top, leveling it. Leave for at least 2 hours to dry.
Priming. Prepare dough mixture. We apply it with a wide spatula, performing movements in an arbitrary direction, but with some effort. Using the rule, we check the quality of the alignment. We remove all protruding areas with a grater moistened with water. Gently rub a small amount of solution into the cavities. Leave to dry for at least 3 hours.
Nakryvka. We prepare a solution of a creamy consistency. You can apply it with a spatula or draw it into a bucket and pour it on the wall from top to bottom. a small amount liquid paste. We smooth it with the rule, completely leveling the base. We let it dry for 8 hours, after which we slightly moisten it and clean it with a construction grater.
Plastering yourself is not so difficult, even if a novice master takes up the matter. Skills are developed on the job. Before taking on the finish, it is advisable to practice on a small area. So you can identify all the "weak" places, work with them, get the necessary skills and a little experience.

The sequence of repair and construction works must always be done in a particular order. In order to properly learn how to plaster walls with your own hands, you will need to know the five steps of this process.

So let's take a look at these 5 important sequences:

Preparatory work for plastering. This includes cleaning the surface (on which the plaster mass will be applied), by removing old plaster, etc.
Preparation, dilution of the mass of plaster.
Applying plaster to walls.
Mashing.
Puttying.

Preparatory work

What is under paragraph 1 can be done by anyone, since this work does not require special knowledge.

You will need to remove old cracked plaster from the wall.

If this is a log wooden wall, then it will be necessary to align the shingles (glazing beads) there, which are nailed with small nails. Shingles are wooden slats with a thickness of 5-10 mm, a width of 15-20 mm, and a length along the height of the wall.

Reiki are nailed either vertically or diagonally cross to cross. The distance between them is 20 cm. All the plaster rests on them, so the surface of the lath mesh must be even.

In some places where wooden lath fails, it is required to put pieces of the rail until it is completely aligned.

If it is a concrete or brick wall, then there will also be some nuances. On a fairly smooth wall, you will have to make furrows, more often this is done with a chisel. The seams between the bricks make furrows from one to two centimeters (to facilitate the work, you can first moisten the wall with water).

According to the rules, a newly built wall is not recommended to be plastered, since fresh masonry will still sit down after a while and the dried plaster will crack.

On concrete and brick walls, where there are irregularities, so-called beacons are used, which are usually planted on vetonite.

To preparatory work also applies to flooring polyethylene or cardboard butt against the wall. Falling plaster on the floor is inevitable. Mixture that has fallen on a clean floor without debris can be used.

Breeding the mixture with your own hands

The proportions should be different for each type of plaster.

If lime-sand plaster is used, then the ratio of lime and sand is one to two. This mixture is used for working with concrete walls from the inside.

For stone walls, a plaster mortar is diluted, consisting of lime, sand and cement, the ratio of which is 1: 1: 4. For those who are not familiar with the ratio system, I suggest: in this case, 1:1:4 means that lime is taken, for example, one scoop.

For plastering wooden walls, a solution containing lime, sand and alabaster is used. Also, first, 1: 2, lime is mixed with sand. After that, alabaster is added to this mixture one to one or half to one with lime (or the same volume as lime, or half as much).

This mixture is suitable for walls where there is low humidity. Not suitable for plinth, cornice and in rooms where there will be high humidity.

Lime-gypsum mixture. This type of solution is stirred in a small portion, up to 5 liters.

This is due to the rapid solidification of gypsum. Suitable for stone, brick and wood walls.

The ratio of gypsum and lime is as follows: to 1 scoop of gypsum (already dissolved in water), from 2 to 5 of the same scoops of lime are added. In preparing the solution, the following conditions must be observed: first, water is mixed with gypsum. It is water with gypsum, not gypsum with water.

That is, first you need to pour water, and then pour gypsum powder and mix quickly. The mass should resemble sour cream in viscosity. Next, pour lime into this mass and mix thoroughly.

This solution will keep usable for up to 10 minutes. Therefore, at this time it is necessary to have time to put it on the wall.

The next type of plaster is a cement-lime mixture. The ratios of such solutions are from 2:2:12 to 2:4:18. That is, in proportion it will look like this: for 2 scoops of cement, from two to four scoops of lime and from 12 to 18 scoops of sand are used.

The method of preparing cement mortar is of two types:

First, lime is mixed in water, then cement is added to the lime mass, after which sand is added. The solution should be mixed well so that no lumps remain.
Mix cement in water. Then lime and sand.

Such a cement-lime mortar is used for plastering external walls, cornices, plinths and inside the building in places of high humidity.

Another type of mortar is cement-sand. Such a solution has good feature: it is very durable and at the same time elastic. The ratio of such a solution is from 1:1 to 1:3. That is, for one scoop of cement, from one to three scoops of sand are used.

And first you need to dry mix the cement with sand, then add water. This is done to prevent the formation of lumps. The proportions of the prepared solution depend on the brand of purchased cement. If cement M-400 is taken, then the ratio should be made one to four.

This solution is applied to the walls in separate parts where the humidity is exceeded.

You can bring the solution to the desired consistency as follows:

If the solution turned out to be liquid, then remove excess water You can put dry ordinary brick there. It will absorb moisture, and the solution will be the desired consistency.
If, on the contrary, the solution is thick, then you can make it ready for use by adding a little water.

Starting to mix

Here in this procedure some skills are already required. The art of applying a plaster solution to a wall is the right thing to do. It is important to be able to apply the solution with a certain force and sharpness so that it sticks and does not splatter and fall.

Correctly applying plaster on a wall can only be done by plastering several hundred square meters and have enough experience.

And what about grout?

The grouting process is carried out a couple of hours after applying the main solution to the wall surface, that is, it should already become hard, but not yet set.

This is very important, since starting the grout early can cause the base mortar layer to move out. If you are late, it will be very difficult to smear it.

For grouting, a special board with two handles measuring 20x120x1000 millimeters is used, it can also be used with one handle. It's called a polutorka. She needs to move in a circle. At the same time, the guide beacons will not allow you to cut off a large amount of mortar, the beacons are set strictly according to the level.

The thickness of the applied solution in one stage should not exceed three centimeters. Therefore, if a thick layer is important, then it must be made from several layers.

The break between each layer is up to two days.

On the walls of houses, that is, directly where they live, plaster is usually applied in several layers:

the first layer is liquid, contains cement, is needed for bonding;
the next layer (leveling) is thick, should smooth out all the errors;
the third layer is decorative, up to five millimeters thick. For a decorative plaster solution, only fine-grained sand (sifted) is used, and cement without lumps and, if possible, colored. The second layer is rubbed with a grater, and the third decorative layer is rubbed with a grater. The grater is a wooden canvas measuring 20x120x200 mm, has one handle. The working surface of the grater must be sheathed with felt.

Surface polishing process

Even the last decorative layer of plaster will not have a perfectly smooth surface. Therefore, the next step will be puttying, which will prevent the formation of dust on the wall. In a residential building, oil putty is applied with a spatula.

Putty is applied to the wall in a thin layer.

Putty walls should be a month after applying the main layer of plaster. It is better to putty the walls outside and in auxiliary rooms with an iron trowel. It would be more correct to iron these walls, as they say.

That is, with an iron trowel (trowel), a certain amount of dry cement is rubbed into a plastered surface pre-moistened with water. If you properly plaster the walls in this way, then the plaster will be glossy and pleasant to look at, moreover, moisture resistant. Ironing should be done immediately after the completion of the plastering work.

Conclusion on the topic

Having chosen the right mixture and with a little practice, you should be able to cope with the tasks. Good luck with the repair!

A useful video on how to properly plaster walls with cement mortar: