How to insulate a wooden house from the inside as efficiently and durable as possible. Insulation of wooden walls from the outside Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside with their own

The bars are fastened with screws directly to the wooden supporting structures. If there is a crate to form a ventilation gap, the bars are attached to the installed rails. Fasteners are recommended to be inserted into pre-made small holes (a thin drill is used for this) so that the tree does not crack.

In some cases, the fence is made of plasterboard profiles attached to the supporting structures on direct suspensions. This is done only if the lining is made of drywall.

Wooden bars are preferable, as they have a lower heat conductivity compared to metal products.

In the process of thermal insulation of the ceiling, the fence is designed according to a similar principle. When insulating the floor, wooden logs, to which the finish coating is attached, serve as a fence.

Installing a heat insulator

Insulating material is laid in the cavity between the enclosing elements. If the heat insulator is in the form of sheets, then wall mounting should start from the bottom, and when using roll material- from above, moving down.

Sheets of mineral wool are located at a distance, due to which their reliable fastening is achieved. But this material, just like polystyrene, needs additional fasteners with nails (one for each sheet).

The heat insulator in rolls is fixed at the top of the wall with one screw, then the material is unfolded and attached with nails at a distance of one meter.

First, solid sheets are mounted, and the remaining areas where trimming is necessary are filled with insulating material at the very end.

If the roof is sloping, the ceiling heat insulator unfolds from the bottom in the direction from the bottom up and is fixed with nails or with a cord. Small nails are nailed onto adjacent bars at a distance of 15 cm, and after the heat-insulating material is laid, a cord is pulled between the beams in a zigzag pattern, which will ensure reliable fastening of the insulation.

When insulating with extruded polystyrene foam, all existing gaps at the seams are sealed with construction foam. The application of foam requires pre-moistening of the surfaces. Dried excess foam is cut off with a knife.

Video about wall insulation from the inside

The video tutorial below shows how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside:

Wall insulation from the inside in wooden houses makes them more comfortable and economical. In addition, the good performance of the walls in terms of heat engineering allows you to save on heating. The issue should be approached seriously, since the result will completely depend on the chosen material and compliance with the technology.

Warming from the inside

Thermal insulation of the house from the inside avoids the need exterior finish. With this approach, you can save an attractive appearance buildings made of timber or round logs. But the technology has a number of disadvantages that you should prepare for:

• interiors are protected from the harmful effects of cold, but not walls;
• the useful area of ​​the building is reduced;
• there are certain restrictions on the materials used.

Which heater to choose

What is the best way to insulate a house? It is worth starting from the material of the walls. The tree has gained well-deserved popularity due to the fact that it is able to "breathe". Wood is well breathable, while providing excellent ventilation in the premises.

To save useful property to the full extent, when working from the inside with your own hands, you need to use materials that are similar in breathability to wood. To insulate the house, it is better to abandon such heat insulators as:

• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam (or more simply “Penoplex”);
• penoizol.

They are highly airtight, so they can create a greenhouse effect in the building. This will require an expensive forced ventilation device or the installation of air conditioners.

The best material for thermal insulation will be mineral wool.

Its advantages include:

• high efficiency;
• the ability to pass air without interfering with natural ventilation;
• safety for human health and the environment;
• incombustibility;
• ease of installation;
• availability;
• low cost.

But when using cotton wool, it is worth remembering its shortcomings. The material absorbs moisture well, while ceasing to perform its main function. To avoid getting wet, you should also purchase a vapor barrier and wind-waterproofing.

Scheme of layers for insulation with mineral wool

There are several varieties of mineral wool. The best option would be basalt (stone) insulation in slabs. You can also choose glass wool, which is available in the form of mats twisted into a roll. The second option can cause difficulties during installation. The material is highly prickly, and the particles, getting into the lungs or on the skin, cause itching. To avoid unpleasant consequences, all work with glass wool is carried out in special clothing and masks.

Most undesirable, but inexpensive option will become slag wool. But, insulating your home, it is better not to save. Cotton wool is made from industrial waste. Manufacturers are responsible for safety, but it is not always possible to check from which slags the insulation is made. You can easily come across low-quality material or a fake, with which the insulation of a wooden house from the inside will be dangerous to health and life.

Preparatory stage

Before insulating a wooden house from the inside, you will need to prepare the walls. This is especially true if it is necessary to insulate an old wooden house. In this case, the material that was used for the caulking has managed to clot. The main task at this stage will be the elimination of cracks - sources of drafts, cold and moisture.

Work begins with cleaning the base. You will need to remove the dust and dirt that has accumulated on the walls. Before insulating an old house, it is worth checking the strength of the wood. It should not be damaged by various pests. Otherwise, it is better to strengthen the walls.

To prevent problems with insects and microorganisms in the future, the surface is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can also perform the treatment with fire retardants, they increase the resistance of the material to fire.

Wood shrinks over time. Because of this, cracks may appear in the walls. Before starting work on insulation, it is worth doing. Currently, jute is most often used for these purposes. For large gaps, it would be wise to purchase tape tow. The material is hammered between logs or timber using a chisel.

It is necessary to perform work until the material ceases to fit into the space and begins to hang out. High-quality caulking is the key to a warm home.

Wind waterproofing of walls

Mineral wool is afraid of moisture. Before you insulate the walls in a wooden house, you should take care of protecting the insulation. On the outside of the mineral wool, a layer of wind-waterproofing is fixed. It prevents weathering and penetration of atmospheric moisture. There are several types of suitable materials, but a vapor diffusion membrane is the best option.

This modern material reliably protects against water, but does not interfere with the movement of air and steam. This allows you to maintain the ability of the walls to breathe, as well as ensure the removal of moisture from the insulation.

Waterproofing is attached to the walls with a construction stapler. The joints of the canvases are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and glued with adhesive tape or a special tape.

Insulation installation

Internal wall insulation is carried out according to the frame. It can be made of wood from a metal profile. The easiest way to insulate a building made of wood is to use wood for the frame. It is important to correctly select the geometric dimensions of the frame:

• The pitch of the racks is selected taking into account the width of the insulation. It should be about 2 cm less than the width of the mats or slabs. This is necessary for a tight fit of the material. For mineral wool, such a step of racks is most often used so that a distance of 58 cm remains between them in the light.
• The frame overhang must take into account the thickness of the insulation and the required ventilation gap. It is needed to remove condensate from the surface and allows you to keep the material dry. The thickness of the ventilation gap is usually taken equal to 3-5 cm.

Mineral wool is laid between the racks of the crate. With the right choice of the step of the latter, the heat insulator will be held due to friction. For additional fixing, you can use special plastic dowels, they are usually sold together with insulation.

vapor barrier

How to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside? It is important not only to choose the right insulation, but also to protect it from all types of moisture. Interior spaces differ enough high humidity, water in the form of steam can easily reach the mineral wool and reduce its effectiveness.

Internal wall insulation implies a mandatory presence. It is mounted on top of the heater. A good option for protection is vapor barrier membranes.

They are more expensive than films, but they do not interfere with the movement of air through the walls. Membranes will become a more modern and efficient option.
Insulation of a wooden wall from the inside with their help is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions. Mounting method may vary for different types.

Finishing

The insulation of the walls of a wooden house is completed with a fine finish. For these purposes, you can use the most different variants. But when choosing a material, it is worth remembering about ventilation. The finishing layer should not impede the movement of air, otherwise the entire previous choice of materials is useless.

Insulation thickness

Wall insulation in wooden houses from the inside should begin with the calculation of the thickness of the heat insulator. Only a professional can perform detailed calculations. With independent construction, you can use special programs. For example, the Teremok program. It is quite simple and is freely available. There is both an online version and a PC app.

On average, mineral wool 80-100 mm thick is used for walls. But it all depends on the climatic region.
Before insulating your own wooden house from the inside, you should carefully study the information on the topic.

And do not forget that from the point of view of heat engineering, it is more correct.

Competent performance of work is the key to durability and comfort.

Today we will analyze in detail how to properly insulate the walls in a wooden house. After all, this is both the comfort of the room and the extension of the life of the wood.

How to insulate the walls in a wooden house largely depends on the structure itself and the materials used. After all, at first glance simple task must be carried out according to certain rules, and here a lot will have to be taken into account. In the video in this article and the photo, you can also find additional necessary information that will help you do everything right.

Internal insulation of a wooden structure

Wall insulation for a wooden house is attached in several stages, each of which is important. After all, if the technology is not followed, the end result will be negative. The instructions below describe the entire progress of the work on the points.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to take measurements and calculate the material. And so, it is necessary to make calculations for the further choice of insulating material, taking into account, among other things, its properties (thermal conductivity). Do not forget that during such work, membranes are used (steam insulating and waterproofing).

When calculating, set:

• Dew point output. This is one of highlights, with this type of work. Everything is explained very simply - how, in the end, it will be humid in the room, it directly depends on this, even in cases where quality material, and a job well done. The location of the membranes, and their properties (for different manufacturers they may differ), and of course the properties of the insulation (density, resistance to wetting) are taken into account.
• Calculation total area premises, given that it will decrease. It may not turn out to be a comparison (an increase in slopes, and if there is a stove, the safe distance will change, between the wall and the stove, which is unacceptable, for fire safety).

Attention: The need for work to establish the dew point is not discussed. It is an inseparable part that ultimately provides the meaning of the whole work. You need to understand - the humidity of the room depends on the location of the dew point, and humidity is rotting, smell, in the end - premature decay.

Choosing the right material

The internal thermal insulation of a wooden wall can be made with many materials, they are excellent in their characteristics and installation methods. You just have to make the right choice.

Let's decide what are the necessary requirements for the quality and properties of insulation:

How to insulate the wooden walls of the house will largely depend on the material chosen. This is interconnected, since the method and method directly depends on the type of material.

From possible ways used indoors - use:

Sealing gaps, preparing the surface for insulation

The insulation for the walls of a wooden house must be airtight, otherwise heat loss cannot be avoided. After all, from the moment the building was built, during its operation, the tree dries out, the house “shrinks”, the constant movement of materials. As a result, gaps and cracks are formed that must be repaired to stop heat loss.

Joints between logs (or timber) - caulk. This is done available material, or the same as what was done before (tow, jute, sealant). As a result, heat loss must be stopped.

Attention: Do not hope that the house is relatively old (or new), cracks can occur throughout the entire "life" of the building. It is necessary to check the condition of the wall (plywood, "lining", will not solve the problem with cracks).

Treatment of wood with a composition that prevents burning and decay

We must not forget about fire safety. To prevent a possible fire, there are special formulations.

• These are liquids, possibly combining both an antifungal composition and a fire-fighting one. They process both a wooden wall and a barrier structure. Such a composition is selected, taking into account the old age of the treated surface.
• You can cover the timber with liquid in any way possible. For example - paint with a brush or roller. If possible, you can use a paint sprayer. After that, you need to dry the processed bars, laying them out evenly, on the “beds”, pressing them from above with something heavy (boards, other building materials).

Insulation ventilation

Insulation of a wooden wall from the inside is done with mandatory ventilation passages. The tree must breathe.

• Given that all the slots are closed, the free circulation of air masses also stops, which ultimately leads to “evaporation”. To avoid this, you can not in a tricky way by arranging a ventilation "air" between the wall and the steam insulating film. It is done this way - not a wall, thin slats (2-2.5 mm) are attached, then, on them, a pair of insulation is pulled. Thus, a "breath" for air is formed. If the house is composed of their "round timber" - slats will not be needed.
• A steam insulation membrane must be installed when using materials that easily absorb moisture (glass wool, basalt). Mounted with a stapler, on, rails nailed to the wall. The film is attached to a 10 cm whip. The joints are glued with double-sided tape. In the event that a water-repellent material (extruded polystyrene foam) is used, a membrane is not required.

Fastening the crate and insulation

Now we will understand how to insulate wooden walls in stages. After all, preparations for the work have already been carried out and all materials have been purchased. All work is done in the following order.

crate

Thermal insulation design wooden walls involves the installation of a crate.

It can be made from two materials:

So:

• The fence is mounted vertically, the distance between the bars is made depending on the insulating material. For example - soft material(glass wool, mineral wool) - the distance is made smaller so that the insulation "sits" tightly, but at the same time does not wrinkle during installation.
• Such material as (iso boards, extruded polystyrene foam) does not require gap reduction, but is laid without gaps. The crate itself is made from a bar 50x50 mm.

Attention: In the event that a ventilation rail has been nailed, the timber is attached directly to them, ensuring the preservation of the ventilation space.

• A wooden beam, in fact, also plays the role of a heater, which is why it is used more often, however, when planning, in the future, finishing using drywall, it is permissible to mount a steel profile (on suspensions). In this case, the insulating material is also laid under the profile.
• When insulating the floor and ceiling, the principle remains the same, but when planning such work, it is necessary to put an insulating film on a whip of 10-15 cm (on the floor and ceiling), in order to later connect it to the ceiling and floor film. On the floor, the crate plays the role of a lag, on which, then, the floor itself is attached, so the thickness of the beam, and the step, is largely determined by this.

Laying insulation material

With a sustained distance, between the bars, the insulation "becomes" tight, usually, more reinforcement is not required. But at work, it is noticeably more convenient when everything is held securely. Especially if the work is carried out with the ceiling.

• It is recommended to additionally strengthen the material in the middle, with one self-tapping screw (special, with a large cap). In cases where foam is used, all remaining gaps are compensated with polyurethane foam(preferably on a wet surface).
• The roll version of the insulation is fixed at the top, then, gradually descending to the bottom, it is attached directly to the wall, at a distance of 1 meter. One-piece material is used, all “trimmings” are sent for revision (embedding, tips).

Finishing insulation

After the installation of the insulation is completed, the shelter is covered with a vapor barrier film. This is done for all types of insulation, with the exception of foam. Very carefully, you should examine the purchased insulation.

It works in one direction (steam and moisture pass there, but not back). Different manufacturers have different markings of the sides (red stripe, rough side, mesh application).

• It is important not to confuse. To do this, you need to understand the principle of operation, or remember - it is necessary, in this case, to ensure that moisture from the insulation enters the room, then it is equalized with the humidity of the room, thereby excluding the temperature drop, which means the appearance of condensate. It is attached, similarly to the one to the wall, using a stapler, from the bottom to the top, with an overlap of 10 cm. The joints must be glued with double-sided tape.
• It is impossible to allow contact with the insulation, therefore, sometimes it is necessary to correct it, so that it does not protrude beyond the edges of the crate and does not touch the film. This design is suitable for almost any finishing materials. Whether it's drywall, or panels, lining, or just plywood sheets. The difference is not big, in the location of the crate (horizontally or vertically). This point must be taken into account when planning.

It is no doubt possible to insulate a wall in an apartment with a tree, just eat it as a lining, then its thickness will still not make it possible to make decent insulation. Therefore, it is better to use other materials as a heater.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside is used much less frequently than insulation from the outside. The reasons for the unpopularity of internal insulation are the following: although insignificant, but a decrease in the living space of the house; you can easily spoil the microclimate inside with an inept procedure, and this will entail unnecessary humidity.

When insulating floors in a wooden house, an air gap of at least 50 millimeters must be provided between the insulation and the vapor barrier.

Nevertheless, if a decision is made, then the work must be carried out, observing the entire sequence of work and technology.

The procedure itself differs little from the thermal insulation of a wooden house from the street.

The reasons for the appearance of cold in a wooden house are:

• the occurrence of cracks between the bars due to shrinkage, incorrect sealing, etc.;
• insufficient thickness of the heat insulator from the street;
• incorrect installation.

Varieties of modern materials that act as heaters

The scheme of insulation of wooden walls.

Types of heaters:

• basalt mineral wool, produced in sheets of various dimensions or in rolls;
• glass wool - often serves as a heater for the floor;
• expanded polystyrene - universal insulation for all surfaces;
• isoplats - fibreboard or linen boards 12-25 mm thick for floors, walls and ceilings.

Isoplat - universal thermal insulation material for internal wall insulation. It is easy and reliable in laying slabs that are inserted between the frame of the crate, attached with screws. Its plates are covered with clapboard, painted or covered with wallpaper.

If expanded polystyrene is chosen as a lumber house insulation from the inside, then it is important to remember that in itself it is a self-sufficient waterproofing agent. There is no need to use other means of waterproofing walls, coupled with polystyrene foam. However, rodents love the material. Therefore, in order to avoid the appearance of mice in the house, it is preferable to insulate wooden walls from the inside with mineral wool or isoplat, floorboards with glass wool or isoplat.

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The technology is the implementation of several operations

Scheme of insulation inside a wooden house.

From the inside:

1. Wall surface preparation.
2. Crack sealing.
3. Formation of a vapor barrier.
4. Installation of lathing on load-bearing wall surfaces.
5. Installation of insulation and work on its sealing.
6. Creation of a ventilation system.
7. Decorating the house inside.

Preparatory procedures

Before starting the insulation of the house from the inside, the first thing to do is to clean the load-bearing walls from dust. The wood is then carefully treated with an anti-insect emulsion liquid and another anti-liquid, as well as giving the wood greater resistance to burning.

It is important to focus on surface wiring and the one that is hidden in special casings. The wiring is completely separated from the walls.

Caulking of cracks

The scheme of insulation of the foundation of a wooden house.

After cleaning and fire protection from the inside, they begin to caulk the cracks. If in general we talk about caulking at home from a bar, then in the future they will perform secondary caulking. Only it will be different in time for a house made of timber, in which no one lived, and for a house in which they began to live immediately after construction. In the first case, they wait 1 year, and in the second, they caulk the cracks in two to three years. This is due to the unequal degree of shrinkage in these two cases.

Slots are caulked using predominantly jute fiber. Using a special thin chisel, cracks are clogged with jute, if any. Sometimes the gaps are formed quite large. Then it is advisable to use tape tow, twisted into a small roller. The gap is filled both inside and outside with jute until the fiber no longer fits. Small hanging or protruding shreds are left as is.

Formation of a vapor barrier

After all the work on thermal insulation, the wooden surface of the house from the inside, made of beams, will be between two layers of thermal insulation (internal and external). This will inevitably increase humidity levels, creating a greenhouse effect as the house stops breathing.

Humidity can be removed only by creating forced ventilation. The main nuance here is to exclude the dampness of the wood and its subsequent decay.

Scheme of floor structures in a wooden house.

To prevent this, a hydro- and vapor barrier film is attached to the entire surface of the insulated wall before installing the heat insulator. The corrugated side of the film is placed on the surface of the bars. This placement of the film coating will protect the wood from moisture and allow the wood to breathe somewhat, removing excess moisture.

Installation of lathing on load-bearing wall surfaces

The crate, the purpose of which is to hold mineral wool, is made of wooden bars. The crate is made of a metal profile only if it is planned to cover it with plasterboard of the GKLV brand, where “B” means “moisture resistant”.

To form correct and even corners, corner posts are knocked together in advance. They measure the height of the room and cut wooden blocks (100x50 mm in section).

After that, a bar of the same length is cut off, but with a section of 50x50 mm. The latter is attached to the edge of the beam 50x100 mm using self-tapping screws in such a way that a stand is obtained in the shape of the letter "G". For each corner of the room, one rack is made. Directly in the corner they are fixed with self-tapping screws. The vertical position is controlled by a level.

After fixing the racks at the corners to the surface of the wall located between them, vertical bars with a section of 50x50 mm are mounted in increments of 50-60 cm. All bars are treated with a liquid that protects against decay and burning.

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Installation of insulation and work on its sealing

The scheme of warming the subfloor in a wooden house.

Having installed the crate, they begin to lay mineral wool. To begin with, the roll is untwisted and a strip of mineral wool is cut off in height. The width of the strip should be 2 cm greater than the vertical gap between the bars.

Then a piece of mineral wool is placed between the bars, fixing it to the wall surface with the help of anchors with large round caps. This type of work requires the presence of a partner to help hold or secure the cotton.

After filling the inter-lattice space with mineral wool in one layer, a second layer of insulation is attached over the bars. A layer of hydrofilm is attached to the cotton wool, applying a corrugation to the insulation. In addition to the function of protection against moisture, the film here will perform another purpose - to prevent small particles of mineral wool from entering the space of a wooden house.

Creating a ventilation system

As mentioned above, after work on internal insulation log house humidity inside it will increase significantly.

The scheme of the vapor barrier of the walls of a wooden house.

To ensure a normal microclimate, it is necessary to provide forced ventilation in all rooms.

Direct hoods to the outside are unacceptable. It is necessary to create a duct system connected in one circuit. Any axial fan of medium and even low power can act as a blower. In winter, it will be enough to include homemade device ventilation for half an hour a day to create optimal humidity in the premises.

wall decoration

After attaching the second layer of vapor barrier film, the walls begin to be finished. The film is pinned to the bars using a stapler and staples, which will make it possible to attach 30x40 mm rails to the film over the staples. Such rails are commercially available.

Having mounted such a bar, it is covered with a wooden clapboard with a pronounced texture. Insulation of the house with subsequent cladding with clapboard will allow you not to lose the original appearance of the interior made of wood. Instead of lining, you can install a planken horizontally, which will also be a very good solution, since this material looks like a small bar.