Brick mini ovens. It's time to make life more comfortable: building a small brick oven for a summer cottage with your own hands Homemade small oven

10.05.2020

There are many options for stoves for cottages and houses. Some of them involve financial expenses, others require direct hands. What about those who did not work out either with money or with skill? Help out simple brick oven, which even a "humanist" can put together.

The article considers two options. The first is suitable for those who want more or less "decent" heating and cooking equipment. The second will be useful to readers who do not pretend at all to a penchant for handicraft, or to any kind of aesthetics of the result.

Figure 1. A simple brick oven

How to make a simple but effective oven?

This option can serve as an alternative to the simplest metal heating appliances - for example, a potbelly stove. With the help of this stove, you can heat the room, cook food, and even admire the flame.

The design occupies a little more than half a square meter. Unlike full-fledged brick ovens, this one does not require. The weight of the structure is not so great as to make a powerful foundation - it is enough to put a solid board.

The oven can be made in just a day. One of the advantages of the option is that the starting heating is possible in the evening. Certain skills are necessary, but they are not beyond the skills of the average male.

On a note! No qualifications are required for the construction of furnaces. But it is necessary to observe the order - this will make the design as efficient as possible in the context of its potential.

What is required for work?

It is not only simple but also a budget option. To build a structure you will need:

brick:
* fireclay - 37 pcs.;
* red - 60 pcs.;
the door blew;
firebox door;
lattice;
valve;
cast iron hob.

As a binder - clay solution. In total, about 20-25 liters of the mixture will be needed.

It will also be interesting: - types and characteristics.

Training

The first step is to determine the location of the furnace. Since the mass of the structure is small, there are no restrictions inherent in traditional brick solutions. Having fixed strong boards or a suitable alternative material, the “foundation” is thermally and waterproofed.

The role of an insulator can play non-combustible material- for example, basalt wool. Polyethylene or roofing material is placed on top of the base. The size of the latter corresponds to the size of the base plus a small allowance.

A layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured on top. The bedding is leveled. It is important to make the base even - the quality of the structure and the convenience of subsequent work depend on this.

Masonry scheme

Figure 2. Ordering the oven masonry

The furnace order is as follows:

The first row is laid on the sand without using a solution. A dozen bricks are leveled strictly according to the level. The bricks are smeared with a thin layer of the mixture, after which the blower door is mounted from the end. The door is pre-wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord that compensates for the thermal expansion of the metal.
After fixing the door with a wire, lay the second row according to the diagram. Form a blower.
Fireclay is used (in the diagram it is distinguished by a yellow tint). After laying, a grate is mounted above the blower.
Prior to this, the brick was laid flat. On this row, it is placed on the edge. A smoke channel is formed, inside which the basis for the partition is made. One of the bricks (it can be seen in the illustration) is laid “dry” - subsequently it will be removed. After that, the firebox door is mounted, which is wrapped several times with strips of asbestos before installation. But you need to do this so that the door opens well up. The element is fixed with wire and a pair of bricks.
The brick is laid flat again, duplicating the previous row.
Again, the turn of the “ribs” is the second and the last row in which the brick is laid in this way. The exception is the next row, in which one of the walls is formed by laying on edge. The walls of the chimney channel should be wiped with a damp cloth.
The brick is laid flat according to the scheme. The back wall is made, again using the "on edge" format.
This closes the firebox. A couple of bricks should hang over the firebox so that the flame moves to the middle of the hob - in case the stove is used as a fireplace (without closing the firebox door).
The bricks are slightly shifted to the back wall to support the firebox door. Before brickwork lay strips of asbestos soaked in water. This ensures the sealing of the gap between ceramics and cast iron. The cast-iron panel cannot be placed directly on the clay mortar, otherwise the difference in the thermal expansion parameters of the materials will lead to cracks.
At this stage, the formation of a chimney pipe starts. The latter, according to the plan, should gradually expand towards the back. But only the chimney base is made of brick. The rest is made of light metal. Otherwise, the excess mass of the element may lead to a shift in the center of gravity of the stove.
Here a valve is mounted, sealed with strips of asbestos. The latter are recommended to be pre-coated with clay mortar. This is the final row, which completes the construction of a brick oven directly with your own hands. The remaining pair of rows is given to the chimney, which will then be joined to a lighter metal channel.

After that, those bricks that were laid “dry” on the 4th row are removed. At the same stage, the smoke channel and the surface of the stove are cleaned of construction debris.

Final works

The simplest stove does not involve serious embellishments. The only decoration is whitewashing. It is recommended to add a little blue and milk to the composition - this will protect the coating from the formation of yellow plaque and whitening.

Important! Before work, brick and metal should be protected. If this is not done (for example, with the help of a film), then the stains will not get rid of.

It is necessary to grease the seams between brick and metal of the chimney very well, as well as the seams between ceramics and cast iron.

Be sure to close the joint between the oven brick and the floor. This will prevent sand from getting into the room. It is desirable to cover the joint with a L-shaped sheet. Then they make a plinth edging, which serves both as a decor and additional element, preventing the rash of the "foundation" bedding.

Figure 3. Functioning furnace

The oven is ready. The entire process took less than one business day. Already now you can try to make a low-powered . Logs cannot be used - only wood chips or paper. wood kindling will create too high a temperature, and the structure will crack. For a full setting of the mixture, you need to give a week or two. After that, you can already drown "in an adult way."

It is interesting: ? Overview of 10 options.

An even simpler version of the stove

If the previous option seemed complicated to someone (although it is not), you can offer an extremely simplified heating design. This oven with your own hands can be laid out in just an hour, even if the hands are generally far from being called golden.

Figure 4 The simplest option brick ovens

The principle of operation of the structure is simple. Burning down below solid fuel, here settling under the influence of its own mass. Temperature differences create a thrust that carries hot air currents upward. At the same time, firewood burns almost without residue - the smoke is minimal.

For masonry, you only need two dozen whole bricks and two halves. The stove consists of five rows. The design is so simple that it makes no sense to describe the order. The procedure is clearly shown in the illustration.

Figure 5. Ordering the simplest brick structure

If you lay the bricks correctly (and it is very difficult to do otherwise), the result will be similar to that shown in the photo. Bricks are recommended to be connected with clay mortar. But in field conditions, you can do without a binder - just put the components on top of each other according to the order. In this case, the stove is built in five minutes.
Figure 6. Masonry process Figure 7. Finished mobile brick oven

For those who want an intermediate option, we can recommend a slightly more complicated option.

Figure 8. Scheme of a simple stove

According to this scheme, the output is an L-shaped three-section stove. The first compartment is designed to load firewood. The second is a chamber in which the logs are burned. The third compartment is the chimney channel. Figure 9. L-shaped stove

The creation of this design will also require 20-30 bricks. This option can be mastered by yourself in a couple of hours, if the skills of a bricklayer are completely absent. The construction will obey the specialist in a matter of minutes.

Do-it-yourself mini-oven can serve you for a long time as in country house, and at the dacha or estate, in general, exactly where you don’t have central heating. There are a huge number of different options in the world with which you can make a mini-oven with your own hands. Such a furnace may differ in its shape, size, or, for example, in the type and layout of the chimney. This design can be erected even by an inexperienced craftsman or a person without qualifications. Making a mini-oven with your own hands will take very little time.

A mini-oven can become not only a source of heat in the house, but also a colorful highlight that can delight with its appearance.

Materials to get the job done

The correct construction of the stove will give many cozy evenings and save you from fires and smoke.

You will need:

boards;
20 liters of clay solution;
60 pcs. red brick;
one blower door;
cast iron stove;
valve, furnace door;
grate;
37 pcs. fireclay bricks.

The size of the mini oven takes 0.4 square meters and is made of brick, flat or on edge. This type of oven perfectly retains and gives off heat.
The design is quite simplified, since the mini-oven is not at all heavy and the foundation is not required. The floor must be made of strong and thick boards that are well fixed.

Such a do-it-yourself mini-oven is an alternative to a potbelly stove, but it has more functional abilities and a heating part, in which a cooking part is provided. It also serves as a fireplace.

This furnace can be erected easily and even in one day. At the very beginning, you need to heat the stove with wood chips and paper, but not with logs, because with a sharp temperature drop, cracks may appear on the new solution, which, subsequently, will lead to improper air movement or smoke. Before putting the oven into operation, it is very important that it dries well. Usually within one week the design dries well.

How to make an oven?

To properly build a stove with your own hands, follow these points:
The stove shown in the photo is called a kitchen stove. Its use is clear from the name - food is cooked on it.

Choose a suitable place for your new mini-stove and put plastic wrap, roofing felt, hydrosol or glassine in that place. The size of one of these materials should be 78x53 cm.

On the litter (its thickness should be 1 cm), it is required to pour and level dry sand.

Lay the first row of 12 bricks on top of the sand, which do not need to be covered with fasteners. After that, it is required to align the bricks in one level so that they lie strictly horizontally.

A thin layer of clay must be applied to the first row of bricks, after which a blower door can be installed. It is very important that the blower door be wrapped with asbestos cardboard or cord. The blower door must be fixed with wire, after which you can start laying the second row.

necessary for laying the third row of the mini-oven, after which it is necessary to install the grate. It needs to be mounted above the blower if the third row of bricks is already fully formed.

We lay the bricks in the fourth row, but already on the edge, and in the middle of the chimney it is necessary to lay stands for the internal partition of the furnace. We lay the back wall of the furnace with bricks with a protrusion outward and without clay - they are called knockout bricks.

Next, you need to install a furnace door. Again, before installing the door with your own hands, you need to wrap it with an asbestos cord so that it can open from the bottom up. It is required to fix it with wire and temporarily fix it with two bricks. Put the first brick at the back, and the second one on this brick and on top of the door.

The fifth row of bricks must be laid flat, and it is important to repeat the contour of the previous row. But the sixth row must be laid with an edge. Next, you need to rub the walls of the mini-oven with a wet rag and proceed to the seventh row.

On the seventh row we lay flat, for a bundle, starting with bricks in ¾ with the next rows. Next, we put two bricks with an edge and begin to make the back wall.

When you lay the eighth row of the furnace with your own hands, then make sure that it closes the furnace door, above which it ends. It is in the eighth row that it is imperative to install a beveled brick above the firebox so that the flame in the furnace is directed to the center of the burner of the cast-iron stove.

First you need to lay out a slightly moistened asbestos cord so that everything is airtight between the slab and the bricks. Since clay and cast iron have different coefficients of temperature expansion, the slab does not fit on clay. Next, you can lay the ninth row, but you need to move it slightly to keep the door open.

When laying the tenth row, you need to form a chimney with an extension at the back. For the design of just such a mini-oven, a brick tube is not required, which expands at the top, because this type of pipe changes the center of gravity of the entire mini-oven. There are different types of chimneys. Chimneys are: straight, horizontal, vertical, direct-flow, counter-flow, hood and combined. The scheme of this stove provides a direct chimney.

When laying the eleventh row, we insert the valve and seal it with an asbestos cord, which is coated with clay.

Thus, chimney will stick to the metal. If the chimney goes to the side, block it with three rows of bricks.

Next, you need to remove the bricks from the fourth row and clean the chimney from the dirt accumulated there during the construction.

Whitewashing the oven. It is required to protect the metal part and the walls of the furnace with a film. So that the stove does not turn yellow, you need to add milk and blue in a small amount to the solution. It is important to carefully blank each piece of the stove, and especially the joints of the cast-iron surface and bricks.

It is necessary to close the gaps between the floor and the first row of bricks laid out well so that the sand that you poured under the brick does not wake up.

Next, it is required to nail a plinth along the edging of the furnace, which will protect the structure from spilling sand. The plinth must be nailed tightly and flush so that there are no gaps. Thanks to this, the mini oven will have a great look.

After you heat the oven for the first time with paper and wood chips, leave all burners and doors open for a few days so that it dries well. Such a mini-stove will withstand fairly high temperature drops and will serve you for many years.

Country houses are increasingly equipped with small stoves various models. The stove in the interior, by its very presence, makes it warmer and more comfortable. And in spring and autumn provides indoor comfortable temperature, which is doubly pleasant when it is raining outside the window or a damp cold wind is blowing.

The modern market offers huge selection compact ovens for country houses designed to work on various types fuel:

Gas;
Electrical;
Models that run on coal, pellets or wood.

Wood stoves are in great demand. Tongues of live fire dancing in the firebox, a breathtaking smell of real wood, a special soft, enveloping and relaxing warmth make them desirable both in small country houses and solid country cottages.

Speech, in this article, will focus specifically on wood stoves.

Types of wood stoves

Having decided on what your heater, it is necessary to decide what its main parameters will be.

Modern wood stoves It is customary to subdivide according to the following indicators:

Purpose:
- Heating, their only task is to heat the building;
- Heating and cooking. They heat several rooms at once and have special structural elements (hobs) that allow you to cook and heat food;
- Furnaces-boilers. A water circuit is built into them, which allows them to be used in a water heating circuit, or for preparation hot water. varieties of such structures are bath stoves;
- The oven is universal, equipped with a compartment for drying fruits, a water-heating box, an oven, a summer chimney and a connection point for a samovar.
Production material:
- Metal, with thin and thick walls;
- cast iron;
- brick;
installation location:
- classic options, designed for installation near the wall;
- corner;
- island. The design of such stoves allows you to put them in the center of the room;
burning duration. This indicator is one of the most important. According to it, furnaces are divided into models:
- short-term (up to 3 hours) burning of one bookmark of firewood;
- long (up to 12 hours), which is achieved due to the system for adjusting the air supplied to the firebox. The most popular models are the rulers and.

Cast iron furnaces

These models are presented on the market in much smaller quantities. They are used as a backup source of heat, which can be used in emergency cases. Unlike thin-walled steel, cast iron stoves, quickly warming up, store heat for a long time.

Products of this group are divided into two basic groups.

Long burning (multi-fuel).

Some models are available with a built-in additional air supply system, which allows you to burn pyrolysis gases.

Furnaces with built-in heat exchangers and water circuit.

Such models allow you to equip in the country water heating. Their power is enough to heat one and two-story country houses large area. Provided that CO is filled with non-freezing coolant.

A typical representative of this group can be considered

Brick ovens

A small brick oven for a summer residence is the most durable, reliable and status option. But these stoves are quite expensive. The rooms warm up more slowly than when using steel or cast iron models. But this is repeatedly compensated by the quality of heat and the duration of its preservation.

The vast majority of brick ovens are structurally adapted for cooking. Some models can be used as fireplaces.

Most often, one of the models of stoves is used as a summer cottage:

dutch
Swede
Kuznetsov ovens.

This is explained by the fact that in the lines of small brick stoves for giving these models, you can choose fairly compact options, stoves of a similar design are available for self-laying (with strict adherence to the orders), have an acceptable cost (even when ordering work from a professional stove maker).

Products of the mentioned types allow you to choose the optimal model, which:

will provide in the country house optimal temperature with a minimum consumption of firewood;
will heat up evenly over the entire height;
maintain a comfortable temperature in the cottage for a long time;
have a maximum heating of the outer walls of not more than 95 ° C;
the oven must be completely safe and easy to use;
its estimated durability (when using appropriate materials and properly executed masonry) must be at least 20 years;
the appearance of through cracks in the outer walls is unacceptable. It is dangerous to human health carbon monoxide enter the room)
visually appealing appearance.

What is required for work

If you decide to lay out a brick oven on your own in the country, you should start by choosing its type. Then the desired order is selected (in the Internet or technical literature). It is possible to order the development of a personal design to an experienced stove-maker. But this is quite an expensive pleasure.

Basic materials

Having order in hand, you can go to purchase materials (and the missing tool). As a rule, the list of required materials and installation accessories is approximately the same for any brick kilns. The difference is only in the amount of materials needed.

To work, you will definitely need:

brick, but not any, but the one that is indicated in the order.

This material is divided into:

by size:
- 250*120*65 - normal;
- 250*120*80 - thickened;
- 288*138*138 - modular;
By strength (from brand 75 to brand 300);
By varieties:
- For masonry, only brick of the 1st and 2nd grade is suitable. From it is placed the body of the furnace and the chimney;
Refractory (other name, fireclay). This brick is intended for laying a firebox.

Clay red (ordinary). The material is used to make masonry mortar. It is subdivided into:
- Oily (sand impurities do not exceed 3%);
- Medium (≤ 15%);
- Skinny (about 30%);
Sand (preferably quarry);
Chamotte (preferably). This material is added instead of sand to clay, in the manufacture of mortar for laying the firebox;
Water (preferably rainwater or distilled). It is strictly forbidden to work with hard water;
Slaked lime. This material will be required during the arrangement, as well as the head of the chimney, which rises above the roof;
Cement. Solutions based on it can be used instead of lime. For a country stove, brand 400 and above will be enough.

Additional materials

Steel profiles (if they are provided for by the order);
Steel sheet (for flooring in front of the firebox);
Annealed steel wire;
Asbestos cord;
Waterproofing (roofing material);
Construction felt (for laying under the pre-furnace sheet);
Refractory mastics (Russian "Garant" or "Monolith"), paint (for example, German Dufa Heizkorperlack).

If your financial possibilities are not limited, you can reduce the time of work (while improving its quality). Purchase pre-made dry masonry mixes. For example, from the Scanterm line, Finnish production (or analogues).

In addition to the main and additional building materials, you will need basic stove appliances (according to the order):

Furnace door (it is better to take a glazed one, which will allow you to admire the fiery dance);
Blower door;
Views;
gate valves;
Rotary dampers;
Flygarka.

Tool

For convenience, you will need the following tool:

Stovemaker's hammer;
Pick;
Construction trowel (other name, trowel);
Jointing for masonry joints (desirable);
Cycle knife;
Scoop shovel for mixing the solution (can be replaced with an electric drill with a mixer);
Measuring tool:
- Roulette;
- folding meter;
- plumb;
- square;
- levels: building, water (if any, laser);
falcons;
grater and half grater;
grinder with a set of discs for stone or concrete;
extension.

In addition, you will need a large container for preparing masonry mortar and a bucket for water.

Masonry

If earlier the laying of the furnace was carried out exclusively according to the existing orders, today the Internet provides an opportunity to lay out a simple furnace, guided by step by step photo with comments. This option is much clearer to many summer residents. Since the correct reading of the orders requires primary knowledge of furnace business and symbols.

We offer you a combined version (orders + photo), which tells about the laying of a simple country stove. This model allows you to heat the room and cook food.

Foundation arrangement

Since this stage work begins if the furnace has a significant weight. The option we are considering does not exceed 500 kg in this indicator. Therefore, it can be laid without first making the foundation.

In the event that the floors in the country house are weak, we strongly recommend that you perform a screed in place of the future one.

After that:

we perform waterproofing of the masonry site by laying a sheet of waterproofing material (roofing material);
on top of it we form a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 10 mm;
under the level (without masonry mortar) we lay out the 1st row (position 1 of the order given above);
in the second and third rows we have a blower door. We wrap it twice with a cord (asbestos) and fix it using a wire;
put the 2nd and 3rd row;
the 4th is done with fireclay bricks;
A grate is placed in the seat. Since metal and brick have different coefficients of thermal linear expansion, when forming a seat, a four-sided gap of 10 mm should be provided;
The laying of the fifth row is carried out "on edge". We form a stand inside the chimney, for the subsequent formation of an internal partition. With a slight advance beyond the plane of the rear wall of the furnace, “on dry” (without the use of masonry mortar), a “knock-out brick” is placed;
In rows 6-8 there will be a firebox door. We also wrap it with an asbestos cord around the installation perimeter, connect a mounting wire to it. Then we fix the door in the desired position using several bricks (see photo).
We put the 6th row “in a spoon” along the contour of the fifth, then the 7th “on the edge”. We perform grouting inner walls chimney with a damp cloth (remove excess solution);
To ensure the dressing of masonry joints, the 8th row is placed in a spoon (flat) with a brick in ¾ (blanks of the required length are made by a grinder). The back wall in this row is placed on the edge;
In the ninth row, the firebox door is closed from above. Above the firebox, to center the fire under the burner, a “smoke tooth” (beveled brick) is placed.
The 10th row, in order to keep the door open, is placed with the brick offset to the back wall. Before starting masonry, a wet asbestos cord should be laid, which will play the role of a sealant along the line of contact hob and brick;
Starting from the 11th row, a chimney is formed (with a step-by-step shift to the rear wall). In order for this not to lead to a shift in the center of gravity of the entire furnace, the pipe is made of a plug-in (metal) or is made attached;
12 row. This is the installation site of the valve, which is pre-sealed with asbestos cord and coated with clay masonry mortar;
Then a ¼ smoke pipe is placed, to which a metal pipe is joined;
The knockout brick is removed and the construction debris accumulated there is removed from the chimney;
The gap formed between the floor and the first row of brickwork is closed with an L-shaped metal overlay. then the plinth is nailed.
The stove is whitewashed, after which the outer surface is covered with heat-resistant varnish (stove). Joints between brickwork and metal structural elements are additionally sealed. It is desirable to paint all stove appliances with refractory black paint.
A trial firebox is being carried out (small wood chips, paper). After that, the design is aged for 14-15 days to complete the natural drying.

Below is another selection of photographs that shows that a brick oven can not only be laid from scratch, but also completely replaced with partial preservation of the structure (in our case, pipes and foundations).

The stove, which stood in the country for 18 years, needed to be updated. When comparing two solutions: repair or complete replacement of the furnace, after checking its actual condition, it was decided to replace it, while maintaining (in order to save money and time for laying) the old foundation and chimney.

To carry out these works, Mr. Rublev (it was he who posted these materials on the network) needed:

Furnace brick brand "Vitebsky" - 450 pcs;
Chamotte brick for the firebox - 40 pieces;
Sheet asbestos - 1 sheet;
Cement M400 - 1 bag;
Chamotte clay - 3 bags;
Refractory black paint, designed for use at temperatures up to 600 ° C - 1 can;
Refractory varnish (colorless) - 2 bottles;
Door with glass for the firebox - 1 piece;
Blower door (with the selection of a pattern to match the main one) - 1 piece;
Medium-sized grate - 1 piece;

Views and valves are used from an old furnace.

And now we look.

This is what it looked like before the renovation. Cracks in the slab, gaps around it and crumbling bricks in the furnace were the basis for alteration.
The pipe is in excellent condition. And, with the consent of the master stove-maker, it was decided to leave it. The issue of fixing the pipe after there was no furnace under it was solved very simply. On both sides, grooves were cut in its walls, into which a corner was inserted. So that the latter does not diverge, it was fixed with a wire. And two boards were brought under it (this is the second floor country house).
Then the furnace began to be dismantled. At the same time, they tried to save the old brick for reuse. At the same time, the top two rows were kept on the pipe. This eliminated the need to re-pass the floor and ceiling covering.
Demolition continues. It got to oven. Since it is not needed for the new furnace, we delete it.
Reached the lower chimneys
Removed everything down to the foundation
And this is "a look through the pipe." The sky is visible. So traction is guaranteed.
The baker was a professional. Therefore, instead of jointing the seams, he suggested removing the chamfer from them. It turned out great.
Laying the first brick of the new kiln
The bottom row is ready. Used bricks inside.
This is what a professional laying looks like
The lower thermal chamber (L-shaped) is formed.
Its location guarantees bottom heating of the air in the room.
Laying a row of fireclay bricks under the base of the firebox. The laid grate is clearly visible. Right, bottom view.
The turn came to the firebox door.
View in all its glory (see photo 13)
Installation hob for 1 burner (fitting).
Above the firebox, the master formed a protruding brick visor. If the door allows soot to pass through, it will not stain the entire wall of the furnace, but will be held by this element.
The hob is placed on the mastic. Nearby is a functional step for dishes, which is very convenient.
And this is the “belly of the furnace”, one of the knees of the internal chimney.
And these are all 3 knees in the "group portrait"
Firebox
Almost full length. The visor and latch are clearly visible (on the side).
A dryer is located above the hob.
And here you can see how the issue of access is resolved warm air. Everything ingenious is simple (view from below)
Shelf on top. Behind it are vertical sections of the chimney.
The stove reached its ceiling, which is also equipped with a visor for beauty.
Starting pipe laying free space, seeking to combine it with the existing part.
This is the distance left between the new and old parts of the pipe. The brick will not go in for sure. But you must.
This did not stop the professional. The stove-maker simply used two jacks and raised the rest of the pipe to the desired height.
We complete the laying of the connecting row and lay the masonry mortar on top of it.
We lower upper part and she sits tightly on the solution.
We cover the surface of the furnace with varnish, and metal elements. black paint. Work completed.
Control furnace.

If not district heating, it becomes necessary to search original solutions. A warm mini brick oven is such a solution. With its help, the whole house is heated and money is saved on the purchase of boilers or other complex equipment. The construction of a heating element is a simple and short process that can be done with your own hands.

Convenience and benefits

Brick mini ovens are convenient and easy to use. Used for heating available materials- firewood or coal, which explains the popularity of this type of stove. In addition, they have other undeniable advantages:

operated for several decades.
Heats up quickly and releases heat into the air.
Ease of construction.
The compact design allows you to lay it out even in country houses.
Equipped with additional devices for cooking.
The shape and design of the furnace are selected taking into account the dimensions and shape of the room where it will stand.

You can heat with pallets, briquettes. This makes the stoves economically viable.
In preparation for the construction of facilities long burning a detailed plan is drawn up. It must take into account all the dimensions and weight of the structure. In addition, we must not forget about the base and the chimney. The foundation allows you to lay out a reliable element for heating country house. This building is not a simple heating item for a country house; when certain changes are made to the masonry scheme, it becomes a fireplace. And the heat transfer of the mini stove is 2000 watts. This value is enough to heat the building and cook food.

Materials for laying a mini brick oven

To prevent moisture from entering the future structure, you need to purchase roofing material.
To build such a structure, a drawing is drawn and everything necessary for construction is purchased. A small oven will require such materials at hand as:
refractory mortar, which is best purchased as a mixture;
fireclay brick, because it does not crack on contact with fire;
small doors for the firebox and ash collection chamber;
grate (grate);
steel sheet and wire;
roofing material for waterproofing.

For laying a structure with dimensions of 50 * 50 cm, you will need 200 bricks and 40 liters of mortar. The dimensions of the doors are selected depending on the wishes of the owner. A steel sheet with asbestos is needed to isolate the object under construction from the wooden floor. If all materials are purchased, a compact stove is placed for giving in 1-2 days.
What tools are needed?
construction heating structure requires quality materials and tools. Professional stove-setters recommend keeping a trowel for laying the mortar, a pickaxe hammer, a level and a plumb line to control the angle of inclination of the stacked order, as well as a tape measure. These tools will help you do all the steps to create a furnace with your own hands. The list can be supplemented with other accessories.

How to build an oven?

For a small structure, an asbestos sheet can serve as the basis.
The fabrication of the structure begins with the formation of the base. The second stage is laying bricks. The creation of the base begins with determining the place where the heating furnace will stand. The place is selected safe and accessible at the same time. Accurate calculations are carried out, which are applied to the construction scheme. If the dimensions of the structure are large, then it is removed flooring and construction begins with the formation of the foundation. Stove builders recommend that a place for a heating element be provided in advance in the foundation of the house. If the stove is planned to be compact and will be heated exclusively with wood, then a metal sheet with asbestos is used as the base.
When the foundation is ready, roofing material and sand are laid out on it, and then they proceed to the construction of the box itself. Procedure:
The formation of the order is carried out from the first row. This process uses 12 bricks. They are securely fastened and adjusted to the level.
The first row is covered with mortar and the second is laid. A blower door is installed above it, wrapped in asbestos.
At this stage, the next row of mortar bricks is laid.
The grate is installed.
The next row is placed on the edge, and back wall formed with a ledge of bricks without the use of clay mortar.
The firebox door is mounted on top.
Subsequent rows of bricks are laid flat and alternating on the edge.
Next, the furnace space is covered with bricks, and a beveled row is laid above them.
The next order is formed so that you can easily open the firebox door.
The last step will be the formation of the chimney.

To avoid destruction of the structure, only 1 row of clay bricks is allowed.

Before you start building your "heart of the house", you need to find out the future location of the furnace. By following the suggested tips, it will be easy for you to decide on a place. Pay attention to:

The size of the dwelling;

The height of the walls;

Contact of the chimney with the ceiling beams. It shouldn't be;

Room heating. Should be the same everywhere;

Position. Preferably - not far from the window in the corner or center of the room;

Proximity to the main wall of the house;

Proximity to front door.

Free access to all sides of the oven for easy cleaning, cleaning and inspection.

Measure the area where the future furnace will stand and mark it.

Instruments:

Rags and buckets;

Drill;

Bulgarian;

Construction mixer;

opening templates;

Scoop shovel;

Wooden lath with smooth edges, it will be a ruler;

Sieve;

Plumb;

Stitching;

Roulette;

Pick.

Materials:

simple bricks;

bars;

Clay mortar;

gate valve;

Cast iron plate;

One door for blower;

Cast iron grate for the firebox;

Heat-resistant brick;

One firebox door;

wire;

Metal pipe;

Asbestos cords.

Work sequence

Once you have decided and chosen the right location, pay attention to the surface. It is important that it be made of well-fixed, thick and durable boards. Lay a 78-x53 cm polyethylene film on the place where the furnace is to be erected. Make a pillow of sand 1 cm thick.

First row. On the sand you need to lay out 12 bricks, do not make fasteners between them. Align at the same height so that they are exactly horizontal.

Second row. We apply the clay solution with a non-greasy layer and install the door for the blower, wrapping it in advance with asbestos cardboard. We fix the door with wire.

We build the third row with refractory bricks. Now you can install a cast-iron grate for the firebox above the blower, but only if the row is completely completed.

Fourth row. We put the brick on the edge in the middle of the chimney. We lay out the rack for the wall from the inside of the oven. We make the reverse side with a ledge on the outside without a solution of clay. These bricks can then be knocked out to clean the well. Wrap the firebox door with asbestos cord so that it can open from the bottom up. We install. We fix it with wire and temporarily put a couple of bricks. One is installed behind the door, and the second on top.

The fifth row is laid in a layer. We repeat the outline of the last row.

We put the sixth row with an edge. We rub the walls of the stove with a damp cloth.

Lay out the seventh row in a layer. We make a bunch from three-fourths of the brick with subsequent rows. Again we put a couple of bricks with an edge. We build a reverse wall at the furnace.

We lay the eighth row so that it blocks the furnace door. Be sure to install a beveled brick above the firebox. Thanks to him, the flame in the oven will tend to the center of the burner on the cast-iron stove.

We spread a slightly wet asbestos cord. Installing a cast iron stove. This will create a tight seal between the bricks and the slab.

The ninth row is slightly shifted to keep the door open.

Tenth row. We form a chimney with an extension at the back. The chimney must be straight.

Eleventh row. We fill the valve with asbestos cord, pre-lubricated with clay mortar and install it. Now the chimney is tightly connected to the metal one. If the pipe leans to the side, it needs to be covered with three rows of bricks.

Clean the chimney of dirt. To do this, pull out the bricks from the fourth row. We whiten the oven. We cover the walls and the metal part. Pour into lime for whitewashing a small amount of milk and blue. It is important to carefully coat all the seams of bricks and cast iron surfaces.

Drying the oven

Close all gaps between the original row of bricks and the floor. We nail a plinth along the curb of the furnace, this will prevent sand from spilling and will give a marvelous look. At the end of all work, the oven will need to be heated for the first time with wood chips and paper or cardboard. Then leave the doors and burners open until the stove dries out. After that, it will be possible to drown it in full force.

This design is suitable for a summer residence or a small residential building. It will be convenient for cooking, it will save electricity or gas. The oven will be able to withstand all temperature fluctuations. Following these simple instructions, the oven will serve you for many years. Looking at it, you will experience aesthetic pleasure and pride in laying out each brick with your own hands.