Open the door 

Layout of a house with an outbuilding. Extension to a wooden house: projects, design options and nuances of installation work. Choosing the type of roof

The desire to increase their country house over time appears in almost every owner of a private house. And an excellent solution in this matter would be an extension to an existing house.

Begin construction works from drawing up a project, where it is clearly and clearly worth drawing a plan of the planned object, considering the connection of all premises with the existing house, choosing the type of structures, foundation and deciding which ones Construction Materials will be used. From the correct study of the project stage will depend financial expenses during construction. It is also worth at this stage to decide on the nature of the use of this building, namely, it will be seasonal or year-round, and also decide what number of storeys the new building will be.

There are several common types of extensions that can be classified according to their purpose.

Summer room (kitchen or veranda).

Such an extension is usually one-story and is used in the warm season. It is convenient for spending time together, family dinners, relaxing, etc. Of course, you need a light or shallow foundation, preferably independent of the main building of the house.

Such a structure, as a rule, has a shed roof (Fig. 1, 2). As roofing material it is recommended to use a metal tile or polycarbonate. In this case, it makes no sense to do thermal insulation, because the room will not be used in winter. It is worth noting that the minimum angle of the roof slope is 8 °, you can’t do less, otherwise leaks will appear after showers and snowfalls.

Living room and attic, if the extension is two-story (Fig. 3, 4).

In this case, a more thorough approach will be required for the construction of the foundation, the construction of the main walls and roof, as well as the installation of waterproofing and thermal insulation materials, supply of all engineering communications.

Particular attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of walls, roofs and floors, given that the extension will be operated in the cold season, and, accordingly, heating.

Before starting construction, you need to consider the condition of the house. The coupling of roofing and foundation structures will depend on this criterion. And it is worth considering that due to the difference in the magnitude of the load that the main structure and the extension will exert on the ground, it is likely that over time they will move relative to each other.

Another option for an extension to the house can be a separate building, closely adjacent to the main one., which quite often becomes the only possible

because of old house may not withstand the reconstruction of the roof, and this will compromise the stability of the entire structure.

Also the extension may differ in the type of foundation. Usually for an extension suit separate foundation, which is connected to the base of the old house with the help of embedded reinforcement.

Of course more correct option- this is the common foundation that is laid at the stage of building a house. However, this happens quite rarely, and therefore it is worthwhile to ensure the maximum similarity of the foundations in terms of material and depth.

The most constructive and competent solution may be a separate foundation for an extension. The most common in this regard today is the foundation on screw piles (Fig. 5, 6). After twisting into the ground, the piles are combined into a single grillage by welding several metal channels or from wooden beam. It turns out an independent and independent foundation, which will not be connected to the main house in any way, since the existing foundation can continue to move down, which can lead to deformation of the structure.

At the same time, the minimum possible distance is observed between the two buildings, i.e. technological gap, which is filled with heat-insulating and waterproofing materials.

An extension to the house can be executed according to frame technology or from a wooden beam (Fig. 5, 6).

Frame technology the most acceptable, as it has a small weight and is the construction of a frame made of wooden beams and filled with insulation. For example, these can be SIP panels, which in a section represent a three-layer "pie" of two bearing surfaces (usually from OSB (OSB), between which foamed polystyrene foam is pressed, where the thickness of the insulation can be different, so you can choose panels for any climatic region. In this case no cladding is required. additional materials which will reduce the cost of construction.

It will be enough to paint the interior panels with varnish. It is also worth saying that lumber extension to wooden house can be of two types: three walls and a fourth carrier, which is already in the house, or three walls, which is the most reasonable in terms of material consumption. If planned winter accommodation, then it is worth using a material whose cross section is at least 150 x 150 or 200 x 200mm.

Such a beam is quite heavy, but it will also last longer. After the walls are erected, the remaining gaps must be sealed, otherwise it will be very cold in the extension. This can be done with the help of modern heaters based on basalt wool or polyurethane foam.

For sheathing extensions to the house from the frame fit any materials. It can be boards, OSB (oriented strand board), siding, blockhouse, etc. Material exterior finish depends on the financial capacity of the owner.

(With gift box) JinKaiRui U Shape Electric Shiatsu Back on…

1288.32 rub.

Free shipping

★★ ★★ ★★ ★★ ★★ (4.90) | Orders (1681)

many owners country houses and dachas from time to time carry out redevelopment of plots with their own hands. But sometimes you have to touch the house. If it needs expansion, then the extension - perfect option increase usable area. At the same time, it can perform completely different functions and be located not only at the main entrance. Projects of extensions are developed taking into account the peculiarities of their operation.

Types of buildings

Before choosing an extension project with your own hands, you should decide on its functional purpose. Typically, the following types of buildings are attached to the house:

For each type of extension, it is necessary to calculate the amount of materials and draw up a plan.

Types of structures of residential extensions

There are several basic options for do-it-yourself extensions to the house:


The first option is considered not only the easiest from a technical point of view, but also the most budgetary. He assumes that the roof of the main building remains in place, only slightly lengthening by the size of the extension to the house. The main building is completed on one side or two. Then a passage is punched between them so that total area buildings increased by the size of the new building.

An attic-type room will be more expensive, as it is supposed to carry out an add-on.

The third option for an extension to the house with your own hands involves own roof. The rest of the structure resembles a side structure. A separate roof increases the consumption of material, so the extension will cost more and will be built a little longer.

The extension of the second floor is carried out only if the foundation of the house allows it. If initially the building was not planned to be multi-storey, then there may be problems with its completion. The foundation may simply not withstand the additional load. In some cases, it can be strengthened.

Designing a new premises

According to the law, any functional room is considered an extension to the house with your own hands. Balcony, loggia, winter Garden or an extra bedroom - all this will be considered an extension. The essential elements of its design are:

  • foundation;
  • walls.

Unlike the main building, there may not be floors here. Do-it-yourself constructive solutions for the roof of an extension are as follows:


The foundation of the building is recommended to be erected separately, since the structures are operated under various loads.
At the design stage, it is very important to consider the compatibility of the new building with the old one. An extension with your own hands should not create obstacles to communications that pass through the site. If you plan to make multi-level buildings, then you need to consider that this will delay the snow masses. Therefore, they should be further strengthened to avoid subsidence of the foundation.

Foundation design

With an increase in the usable area of ​​an existing building in the horizontal direction, it is unprofitable to build a slab or strip buried foundation. The most economical base designs are:


If preference is given to a pile or column foundation, then it is necessary to perform additional protection of the lower part of the structure from freezing. For this purpose, you can use basement siding with an inner layer of insulation in the form of basalt wool or expanded polystyrene.

Wall design

When drafting an extension, you should decide in advance on the material for the walls. For frame or panel construction, a sandwich is used:

  • OSB sheets with a layer of expanded polystyrene or stone wool;
  • internal membrane for vapor barrier;
  • outer film for waterproofing.

The laying of lightweight blocks - aerated concrete or foam blocks - will cost a little more. If preference is given to the latter, then it should be taken into account that even walls made of the highest quality foam concrete are often covered with a network of cracks. Therefore, the facade will need to be plastered over the reinforcing mesh with a special composition.

Roof design

When designing an extension to a house with your own hands, you need to calculate the reliability of the elements of the truss system, their configuration and choose a step for their placement. If the height of the walls is the same, then the supports can be based on the existing load-bearing structures. The rafters of the lower extension to the two-story building should rest on the columns located near the walls of the main building.

Most often, the slope of the roof of the house closest to the extension is dismantled. The elements of the truss system are replaced by new ones that have a greater length.

As an option, you can disassemble roofing cake but do not dismantle the rafters. For a new building, a shed roof is being erected. You can strengthen the truss system with racks.

Do you dream of expanding your living space, but don't know which extension to choose? Beautiful and functional extension allows you to make the house more spacious by adding the necessary square meters. To find the veranda option that meets your expectations and the architecture of the place, use the house extension photo ideas.














How to make an extension to the house?

if you have private house, then in most cases you can always increase your living space thanks to an extension. Do you want a custom porch to adapt to your needs? Consider the following photos of home facades to make your dream come true.

Start from the budget allocated for the extension

Home extensions can be costly, depending on the project you're considering. However, it is always possible to find a solution for all levels of funding, even within the minimum budget. For more or less well-endowed projects, it would be better to install a veranda for the construction of a large extension. Attic development projects are in the middle of the price range, provided they don't have to deal with too many structural issues like access etc. Finally, the largest expansion projects, under the supervision of an architect, are in the high price range.

Choosing the Right Option

The construction of the veranda requires organization. You should definitely find out from the experts what is allowed or not in your house, consult on the extension, voicing your desires - an additional room all year round, relaxation area, kitchen, spa, etc. Be sure to observe the technical or regulatory details that need to be considered. You will have a clear idea of ​​what kind of extension can be built, predicting the family budget.

Tons of possibilities

Home extension or extension: A solution for expanding space without a huge capital investment. Create new bedroom, office, new kitchen or living room to reorganize the house. Modern architects work for most extension projects. But be careful, because any expansion project, whether it's just adding a room, installing a veranda, or implementing an elevation, must follow certain rules.


Extension to a private house: several solutions

You can expand the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house with an extension, which can be separate from the common rooms, acting as a separate corridor, or complement the living space.



Side room extension

This is the preferred solution for owners of fairly spacious land. A side room extension allows you to add volume to a home with priority to create or change an area, providing a connection between two rooms (old and new). You can then let your imagination run wild by choosing the style of the new building.


entrance hallway

If you maintain a separation of the extension from the main habitat in the house, then the veranda will be in the form of a cozy corridor, which is especially useful in winter due to the heat after the street. Being a less used room on winter evenings, you need to heat this type of extension to a minimum.



Living room addition

If you do not separate the veranda from the existing enclosure, for example by breaking down a wall to create a large space, heating must be provided, even with good insulation. The design of the veranda also depends on the destination. An attached room can complement the kitchen or living room.







Functional extension to the house

The use and location of the veranda will also affect the entire layout of the house. In some cases, you may need to modify some existing rooms to make the extension more functional. Consider photo examples that allow you to consider several options for verandas for living and relaxing, both open and closed. Both options will help create bright and comfortable spaces that make everyday life easier. The original extension of the house optimizes the comfort of life for all family members.



Closed annex

The closed type of extension perfectly performs the functions of an additional room, if you take care of it interior design and warming. Such an addition will not only harmoniously decorate the facade of the house, but also increase the comfort of the residential interior space.





open veranda

If you want to beautifully decorate the entrance to the house, increasing the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe porch, creating a comfortable outdoor seating area in summer time years, then an unglazed extension will help you with this. The veranda can be arranged garden furniture where you will enjoy the peace and tranquility of the surrounding garden. Such extensions are especially popular for cottages and country mansions.







Verandas are the easiest way to expand your home

The construction of the veranda is relatively the easy way change the square meters of your house. The cement slab is poured out and the veranda is ready to be assembled by the contractor. The wall to which the veranda adjoins must be reinforced, since it is load-bearing. The modern extension is an upscale structure with decorations, gables, whose charm is sure to attract everyone. You can choose both standard versions of the veranda and unusual ones, connecting the room with the living room or dining room. For good comfort, underfloor heating, blinds and maintenance all year round are essential.




Extending your home with an addition is a solution that will add value to your home in the event of a resale, but will also improve your living conditions. To carry out this work, it is necessary to select the most suitable project, not forgetting to comply with the necessary administrative procedures and other urban planning restrictions. An extension to the house is a fairly often used solution for expanding living space. If the architecture of the building and the area of ​​the landscape allow for such completion, then be sure to take this chance.

Extensions to the house, as a rule, are built in cases where it is necessary to expand the living space, equip a veranda or terrace for summer holidays, get additional space to accommodate a garage or any utility rooms in them. Of course, such an extension must have a reliable roof. And very often in such cases, the docking of the roof of the extension with the walls of the main building or with its roof raises questions. These areas are the most vulnerable in terms of the likelihood of leaks, which, alas, often happens with improper installation.

To figure out how to make a roof with high quality, it makes sense to analyze in detail some of the nuances various options its erection. Naturally, while paying special attention to the implementation of waterproofing work in the arrangement of lines of joints and junctions.

A few words about the basic structure of the roof

In order to make it easier to understand the terminology in the future, so to speak, “to speak the same language”, it makes sense to consider circuit diagram roof structures. The hip version is taken as an example, simply because it usually includes almost all the elements that make up any type of truss system.

So, the truss system consists of the following parts, each of which has a specific purpose:

  • Mauerlat - this is a powerful beam, laid and fixed around the perimeter of the house on its bearing walls. It is designed for the most even weight distribution of the entire roof structure and external loads falling on it. Very often, it is on this structural element that the lower side of the rafter legs is fixed.
  • - these, one might say, are the main details of any system that form the roof slopes and serve as the basis for fastening the battens and roofing material. Rafters are made from a board that has the section necessary to ensure strength.
  • Diagonal (sloping) rafters - these elements are part of the hip, half-hip and multi-gable rafter system. They are installed at the corners of the building and connect them to the ridge run (ridge).
  • Narozhniki - it is also a rafter, but having a shorter length. They rest with their ends on the Mauerlat and the diagonal (hip) rafter. (with a multi-gable roof - on a ridge run and a diagonal rafter)
  • Skate run - a longitudinal board or beam on which the rafters are fixed in their upper part.
  • Puff - horizontal q beam or board, fastening together opposite rafter legs in a pair, in their lower or middle part. The lower puffs can also simultaneously serve as attic floor beams. If they are installed in the middle part of the rafters, then a beam can additionally be included in the rafter system, which acts as a floor beam.
  • Racks or headstock - structural reinforcement elements. They are installed on a puff (or on a bed installed on an internal main wall) and support the ridge run or go directly to the rafter leg, thereby reducing its span between the support points.
  • Strut - a diagonally located reinforcement element, resting on one side against the rafter leg, and on the other, against a puff, lying or rack. This detail of the truss system serves to give it additional rigidity, and also helps to remove part of the load from the weight of the structure from the walls of the building.
  • Sprengel - element, characteristic of hip truss systems. This is a bar constricting Mauerlat in the corners and serving as the basis for the racks supporting the diagonal rafters (which usually turn out to be the largest in length). Such a reinforcement part also helps to relieve the load from the walls of the house.
  • Wind beam - an optional, but still quite often used element of strengthening the system. This is a diagonally located board, which is fixed on the rafter legs from the side of the attic and makes the structure more rigid. This element is necessary if the roof slopes have a steep slope. Usually placed on the windward side.
  • Filly - a board or beam with which the rafter legs are built up in the lower part. They are usually designed to form the eaves of the roof slopes.

Prices for fasteners for rafters

fasteners for rafters

So, the main elements in any rafter system are the elements that form the roof slopes - these are the rafters and the ridge run. The remaining parts can be considered auxiliary, so only some of them can be used in various systems.

Extension roof types

What options are possible in principle

To begin with, it is worth figuring out what the roof of an extension to the house can be. It is quite obvious that its type will directly depend on the design of the main truss system and how the extension is located relative to the main building.

So, either the expansion of the residential building itself, or the addition of an auxiliary room separate from it, can be carried out from one, two or even three sides of the house. Therefore, the roof for it can have different types designs.

The most popular extension roof option is, since it has the most simple design and not particularly difficult to install. This option is usually used when an extension is made only on one side of the house, usually along its long side.

However, the roof of the extension can also have a gable, half-hip or hip design. There are even more complex configurations truss systems, which, in combination with the roof of the main building, form a multi-gable structure. But they are usually planned during the complete reconstruction of the house, thus even changing its architectural style.

Most often, the owners of average private houses don’t particularly “bother” and choose a simple shed roof for an extension located along one of the walls of the building.

Time passes and it turns out that private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. We will tell you how to do it efficiently and at no extra cost in the article.

Save money without sacrificing quality – room requirements and materials

Poorly thought out extension design over time will force something to be redone or completed, attached to country house. In order not to get into such a situation, we think through all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start with the choice of location and size.

Each type of additional room has its own specific features in connection with the use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in the country, then this is tantamount to building a small house. It is required to reliably insulate, to prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.

Another common type of outbuildings are kitchens and bathrooms. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about engineering communications and sum them up even before the start of construction. Sewer pipes, water pipes are much more convenient to lay before pouring the foundation than to make their way under it later. Waterproofing needs more attention floor covering. We are thinking about warming, but if the kitchen is planned for summer, then this can be saved.

Expand the house and an extension of the veranda. The structure is light, serves for summer holidays, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many versions: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to a complex one with walls, a door, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but foundation waterproofing is necessary.

An extension to the house should be in harmony with the main building. If the house has an exterior finish, then it will not be difficult to repeat it on the attached premises. With all materials, wood is well combined, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option there will be a frame structure:

  • built quickly, in just a few months;
  • does not require a capital foundation, because it is light;
  • without special knowledge and skills, it is available for construction with your own hands;
  • will cost less.

The base for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching the structure to the house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but leave an expansion joint. In this regard, frame structures, which do not give vertical shrinkage, compare favorably.

If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is made single-pitched. We choose the slope in such a way that the snow does not linger and the rain flows down. If this is an extension to the side wall, then the roof repeats the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.

Pillar base - fast, cheap, reliable

For the columnar foundation of an extension to the house, concrete, brick, or a combination of both is used. It is done mainly for a living room or a veranda. If applied to a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation of the entry of utilities into the house will be required. Since protection concerns an average of half a meter of pipes, you can go for such expenses, it will still come out cheaper strip foundation. The floor is made of boards, for concrete you will need a lot of material for backfilling, a fence around the perimeter.

We start with the marking of the site, the installation sites of the pillars are one and a half meters from one another. A separate pit 50 × 50 cm is dug under each pillar, with a depth greater than the freezing of the soil. At the top, we expand the pits a little: about 10 cm on each side. We fill the bottom with a layer of sand of 10 cm, carefully ram, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also rammed.

We lay out the film for waterproofing, bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build brick pillars, we pour a little concrete mortar for the base into each pit and wait for it to set. When concrete pillars are planned, we tie the reinforcement at the top along the entire height, lower it into the pits. We provide an equal distance between the walls. We put pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.

We make formwork for the plinth, inside which we launch the film. Concrete is poured in layers, each layer is pierced several times with a bar so that air bubbles come out. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it seizes, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the column and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time, pour heavily with water, cover with burlap or film.

When the foundation has gained the desired strength, the formwork is removed. We heat up the bituminous mastic, apply it to the poles and immediately glue the pieces of roofing material for waterproofing. Between the pillars there was a space that it is desirable to fill up in order to insulate the floor. We use ordinary earth mixed with rubble or pieces of brick. We fall asleep in layers of 10 cm, we ram. The technology for erecting a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar one, it is solid.

Getting started - lower trim and extension floor

So, we settled on the frame version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for a tree to serve for a long time, it is required to adhere to two rules: make reliable waterproofing and carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing, the most reliable means - bituminous mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.

Then we do bottom harness. Usually a beam of 150 × 150 mm is used, but boards of 150 × 50 mm can be used. We lay them horizontally around the entire perimeter, leveling with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. The second row is laid on top, overlapping the joints in the first.

In the boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes for the studs and connect them. If it is tape, we drill and connect on the ground, and then lay it. To get the effect of a single beam, we knock it down with nails in a checkerboard pattern after 20 cm. It turns out a strapping of the desired thickness, which also has additional advantages:

  • is much cheaper than bars;
  • it is very easy to connect with each other, with bars it is more difficult.

We attach the lower trim to the beds from the same boards 150 × 50 mm, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them together and with the beds with 90 mm nails. Next, we expose the logs from a similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the already we install them. They are attached to the binding board with nails, 2 on each side.

Now let's move on to floor insulation. The cheapest, albeit not very environmentally friendly option is tiled polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg / m 3. Its advantage is that it is the only one of the heaters that is not afraid of moisture. We nail 50 × 50 mm bars to the lower edges of the log, which will hold the polystyrene foam. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay it so that the seams of the lower and upper rows overlap.

The base is ready. We lay the subfloor on top. So that it does not warp over time, we lay it, alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look at the cut: we put one board with an arc up, the other - down. We make the finishing floor from plywood, the joints are apart. A rough base is not necessary in the presence of edged tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 30 mm or plywood 15 mm. We lay directly on the lags.

Wall mounting - two assembly technologies

There are two technologies for assembling frame structures. The first is called frame-panel, when the entire assembly is done on the ground, then prefabricated structures put in place and fastened together. Sometimes the frame is sheathed immediately, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation right on the spot. Which is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. The shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone; helpers will be required.

We begin the construction of the frame with corner posts. For them and intermediate racks, we use a beam of 150 × 150 mm or even 100 × 100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We arrange the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. So we will save on waste-free use of the material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.

Fastening can be simply and reliably carried out with metal corners installed on both sides of the racks and fixed with stainless screws. Before finally fixing the rack, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for corners. One incorrectly set beam will cause the entire extension to bend.

Temporary cuts, which are installed from the inside and serve until the outer skin is attached, help maintain the correct shape of the frame. If the sheathing is made of a hard and durable material such as plywood, OSB, GVK, it is able to independently strengthen the base, which will stand securely after removing the temporary cuttings. When soft material is planned for sheathing: siding, lining, then permanent braces cannot be dispensed with. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.

In the places where windows and doors are installed, we fasten the crossbars. We make the racks next to them double: they experience increased loads and should be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper trim. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: beds made of two boards fastened together and the harness itself made of the same boards installed on the edge. To it in the same way as the floor logs were attached, we nail the floor beams from the boards 150 × 50 on the edge with nails.

We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correct installation of racks and crossbars: the racks are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.

Shed roof - design and implementation technology

The roof of the house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one. If the extension is built on the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one, it remains only to repeat its design in order to lengthen it. When an attached building is located along the length, its roof is made single-pitched. The slope is provided by the difference in the height of the front and rear pillars. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main canopy.

The roof is supported by rafters, which are laid on the beams. They are made of thick boards, to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them on the ground according to the template so that they are all the same. Then, after installation in place, it will not be necessary to align horizontally. We process the grooves with mastic, install and fasten to the walls with brackets, metal corners on studs. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.

We lay the crate on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material, we make it solid or in increments of 0.3–0.6 m. soft material, sparse we do for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten profiled sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws with sealing washers, ondulin - with nails with a wide hat. We provide wave overlap. Don't forget about the final design: the wind strips not only protect the roof, but also give it a finished look.

Warming is a mandatory operation for an extension

They are mainly used for thermal insulation of buildings. mineral wool and foam. Mineral wool resist fire, low thermal conductivity. They have a small weight, a form of release convenient for consumers: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation is foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, it is not afraid of fungus, moisture, decay. But there are two big drawbacks: it is very fond of rodents, it releases toxic gases in case of fire.

Warming from the inside is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. 1. We mount the waterproofing, having previously cut the strips of the required dimensions. We fasten with staples using a construction stapler in such a way as to ensure an overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
  2. 2. We lay the insulation between the racks. Provides a tight fit wooden structures, the seams between the individual elements of the insulating material are closed, overlapping the next layer.
  3. 3. We fix the vapor barrier, even if we use foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the tree. Fastening is carried out similarly to waterproofing.
  4. 4. We sheathe the walls from the inside. We use drywall on a perfectly even frame or OSB, if there are irregularities. It is more rigid and smoothes out flaws.

Remained internal and exterior finish where there is room for the owner's imagination. The frame extension is built quickly, cheaply, has been serving for decades, and it can be built with little or no outside help.