Brick oven with stove diagram. Small brick ovens: purpose, advantages, construction. Choosing a furnace design

Comfort country house, built far from gas supply networks, is unthinkable without a stove. In the cold season, it gives us pleasant warmth, ridding the air of dampness.

The market today offers customers all kinds of metal "bourgeois" designs. Despite this, many summer residents prefer the classic version - a heating stove made of bricks. Its advantages are obvious: due to its large weight, it accumulates a lot of heat and gives it away for a long time, warming up the room well.

The service life of a brick structure significantly exceeds the resource of a metal one. The minimum cost of materials and ease of arrangement attract the attention of home craftsmen to a simple stove for giving.

Our article will help you test yourself as a stove-maker. In it, we will consider several options for simple wood stoves and give practical recommendations for their laying.

You will see that there is nothing complicated in the drawings of these structures. Having learned to read “orders” - brick layout schemes, you can build a full-fledged heat-generating device with your own hands.

How to fold the simplest brick oven?

First you need to decide what you want to get from the future stove. If you only need to heat rooms, and you use bottled gas or electricity for cooking, then choose the option without a stove and oven. Anyone who loves soft healing warmth chooses the option with a couch.

For regular heat treatment a large number food and pet food simple oven with hob will be just right.

We will look at three examples of stoves with a step-by-step guide to laying them:

• Simple straight-through;
• With hob;
• Heating.

Let's say right away that it is impossible to expect high heat transfer from a simple design, devoid of gas revolutions. For this reason, such stoves are placed in garages and other small rooms with an area of ​​\u200b\u200bno more than 16 m2.

We will consider this option so that beginners get the first simple lesson in practical masonry.

Straight-through heating structure designed to heat a small room

Under such a stove does not need a strong foundation. After pouring large gravel with a layer of 15-20 cm, filling it with cement mortar and leveling the surface, after a couple of days you can start laying.

The dimensions of the furnace in terms of: width 2 bricks (51 cm), depth 2.5 bricks (64 cm). Since there is no blower chamber in it, holes for air intake are drilled directly in the furnace door.

The sixth row covers the combustion chamber door. The top view helps to better understand the way the bricks are laid out.

The orders of such a design are simple. The main condition during work is to observe the dressing of the seams so that the upper brick closes the seam between the two lower ones.

On the eighth row, the firebox is narrowed, using halves and “three-quarters” for this - ¾ of the whole brick. The exit from the furnace is thus obtained with a section of 1 brick (125x250 mm).

The next row (ninth) is laid out in the same way as the seventh, using a whole brick.

After that, the brick tier is placed on the edge flush with the inner edge of the bottom row. The new tier is laid flat, using two whole bricks and four three-quarters. In this way, the smoke channel is again narrowed in order to trap gases and increase heat transfer.

On the next tier, the stones are placed on the edge. A brick is placed in the middle of the smoke channel. In this way, the stove is raised another five rows (one tier on the edge and a brick in the middle, the other tier flat).

The remaining four tiers are laid flat. With the last two rows of masonry, the smoke channel is narrowed to a size of 12x12 cm (half a brick). At this level, a smoke damper is placed in the furnace. A steel pipe is inserted into it from above.

Stove with hob

In the very simple version this design has small dimensions (width 2, and depth 3 bricks - 78x53 cm). However, even in such a limited area, it is possible to place a single-burner stove.

Work goes smoothly when everything you need is at hand.

Therefore, purchase the following materials and accessories in advance:

• Solid red brick - 107 pcs;
• Blower door - 1 pc;
• Grate - 1 piece;
• Single-burner cast-iron stove - 1 pc;
• Furnace door - 1 pc;
• Pipe valve - 1 pc.

Refractory bricks are not needed for a wood-burning stove. Buying it is a waste of money. But red should be chosen carefully, rejecting cracked and uneven.

Solution preparation

The masonry mixture is made by mixing four parts of clay with one part of water and adding eight parts of sifted sand to them. The normal consistency is determined simply: the solution easily slides off the trowel, leaving no streaks on it. When laying, it should not flow out of the seams.

The volume of the solution is determined, focusing on the number of bricks. At optimal thickness seam (3-5 mm) one bucket is enough for 50 pieces.

Having prepared the masonry mixture, you can start laying the foundation. Its width is made 10 cm more than the width of the furnace. The height of the foundation is chosen so that the bottom of the first row of bricks is at floor level.

Approximate prototype of the stove

If the underground is deep enough (50-60 cm), then it is not necessary to dig a hole under the foundation. It is enough to make a formwork on the ground with a size in terms of 76 x (51 + 10 cm). Two layers of roofing material are laid on its bottom to protect it from moisture. After laying the concrete, he is given a week to gain strength and then proceed to masonry.

The dimensions of the stove we are considering with a hob are 3 x 1.5 bricks (76x39 cm).

Master's advice: lay out each new tier of brick without mortar (dry). After adjusting the bricks to size, you can start laying.

The first row is placed on a layer of clay mortar (4-5 mm). Having leveled the base, lay out the second one, leaving room for the blower door.

Before mounting the door, you need to screw a soft wire to it and lay its ends in the seams for better fixation.

There are four holes in the frame of the cast-iron door for the wire that serves to fix it in the masonry.

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal, a gap is left between the door and the brick. Before installation, its frame is wrapped with a wet asbestos cord.

The laying of the third row is carried out, overlapping the seams of the second. At this level, a grate is installed in the firebox.

Ordering scheme from 1 to 8 row

The fourth row is placed on the edge, observing the dressing of the seams, and the walls of the combustion chamber are formed. Behind it will be the first and only chimney (see section A-A on the scheme No. 2). To clean its bottom, a so-called knockout brick is placed in the back wall without mortar, periodically removed to remove ash. Inside the chimney, two supports are made from pieces of brick to support the internal partition.

The stones of the fifth row are placed flat, leaving room for the furnace door. In the back of the furnace, in order, we see the walls of two smoke channels. Their surface during operation must be thoroughly cleaned with a wet cloth from clay protruding from the seams. This is an important condition for good traction.

Helpful advice! Focusing on the ordering drawings, do not forget to look at the two sections of the stove. They will help you better imagine its design and not make mistakes when laying out bricks.

Ordering scheme from 9 to 11 row

Having raised it into the masonry up to the eighth row, they close the furnace door, laying a wire in the seams that fixes its frame. At the same level, a brick with a beveled end is placed in the back of the fuel chamber - a smoke tooth. It improves heat transfer by preventing the rapid exit of flue gases into the chimney.

Having finished the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid on it in a clay solution. It is necessary for sealing the joints of the cast-iron plate and brick. On the tenth row, the firebox is covered with a hob.

At the eleventh, a smoke damper is installed in the pipe. It is also sealed along the contour with an asbestos cord dipped in clay.

12th and 13th row - the formation of the walls of the pipe. After their completion, a light pipe made of sheet metal, displayed on the roof.

heating stove

And now let's see how to fold a brick oven with your own hands, designed to heat a small country house.

Approximate prototypes of the considered version of the heating stove for a country house

Its dimensions:

• width - 2 bricks (51 cm);
• depth - 3.5 bricks (90 cm);
• height - 2 meters 38 cm.

For construction, the following materials and accessories will be required:

• Red solid brick - 390 pcs;
• Clay - 9 buckets;
• Sand - 18 buckets;
• Grate (25x40 cm) - 1 pc;
• Furnace door (20x30 cm) - 1 pc;
• Blower door (14x20 cm) - 1 pc;
• Cleaning door (14x20 cm) - 1 pc;
• Gate valve -1 pc;
• Pre-furnace steel sheet (50x70 cm) - 1 pc;
• Roofing felt for waterproofing (100x60 cm) - 1 pc.

Sequence of work

The first row is the base of the oven. It should be laid out especially carefully, checking the horizontal position with a level.

Corners are the hardest part for beginners. In order for them to be even, we recommend that you immediately install four template racks on the edges of the masonry. They can be made from planed boards, knocking them down in pairs at a right angle.

By installing such a “formwork” from floor to ceiling, you can easily derive ideal angles.

Homemade template for masonry corners

On the second row, from the end of the furnace, two bricks are laid with a beveled edge that goes into the ash chamber. The laying of the third row begins with the installation of a blower door, fixed with wire in the seams of the side bricks.

Sequence diagram from 1 to 10 and cross sections of the heating furnace

4 and 5 rows continue the formation of the walls of the ash chamber. In the sixth row, they begin laying the walls of the fuel chamber and put a grate in it.

At the level of 7 and 8 rows, a furnace door is mounted. Beveled bricks are placed in the back of the chamber, which serve to improve traction. The ninth row closes the firebox door.

From the 10th to the 16th row, the laying of the fuel chamber and the vertical chimney channel is underway. On the seventeenth, a cleaning door is placed in the oven.

18-30 rows form smoke circulation channels. They need to be laid out as evenly as possible, rubbing inner walls wet rag.

31-32 rows form a vault that covers the furnace.

33 and 34 form a chimney.

After finishing the masonry, the oven is left for a week with the doors open and the pipe to dry. After that, they make a trial firebox, burning small portions of chips, branches or straw.

At a time when a stationary solid fuel stove was the only existing means of heating a house, the profession of a stove-maker was very popular and respected. Today, for the arrangement of individual heating, you can use many different units operating on a wide variety of fuels, but brick ovens are still in demand.

Nowadays, finding a truly competent stove-maker is not an easy task. Yes, and you don’t need to do this, because you can lay out a full-fledged stove with your own hands.

Before proceeding with self-laying the furnace, familiarize yourself with the features existing varieties similar units. The ovens are:

• heating. Designed exclusively for heating. Such ovens are extremely simple design and laid out in the shortest possible time and with the least effort compared to other types of structures;
• heating and cooking. The most popular and demanded option. At the same time they heat the house and allow cooking;

There are also improved varieties of heating and cooking stoves with a built-in stove or even a full-fledged oven.

Fireplace stoves belong to a separate category. This is a great option for a modern private home. Such designs perfectly cope with the tasks of space heating and have an attractive appearance. A properly laid out and finished fireplace stove will be a worthy addition to the interior of both a small country house and an expensive private villa.

Schemes of modern furnaces distinguish them not only by purpose, but also by the features of the form. Most often, units of rectangular and square shape. But if you wish, you can lay out a round oven. Select the specific option taking into account the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.

The oven, of course, can be laid out with your own hands and numerous schemes will help you do this in the shortest possible time. However, when performing such work, remember that any furnace, regardless of its purpose, shape and other characteristics, must fully comply with current fire safety standards.

The choice of location and type of foundation for the stove

Before starting the laying of the furnace, pay due attention to finding a place to place it. For example, if the unit is placed in the middle of the room, it will be able to give off much more heat, warming up from all sides and evenly heating the air around.

If you place the stove against the wall (and this option is used most often), the floor will constantly “walk” cold air. Therefore, in this regard, you need to make your own decision.

Pre-determine the installation location of the furnace door. This element must be installed so that in the future you can load fuel into the stove as conveniently and quickly as possible without spreading garbage from firewood or coal throughout the house. Usually the furnace door is located on the side of the kitchen or some little-visited room.

The finished brick stove will have a fairly impressive weight. In order for the device to stand as reliably and for a long time as possible, an individual concrete foundation must be prepared for it.

Furnace design features

Traditional brick ovens have a fairly simple design. However, the simplicity that seems at first glance makes it possible to achieve very high rates of productivity and efficiency.

The main elements of the body of a brick oven are the firebox and the chimney. Cooking ovens are additionally equipped with stoves and / or ovens, it is also possible to install a tank for heating water.

The firebox is the main part of the furnace unit. It is in the firebox that firewood or other fuel used for heating is loaded. The firebox can be of various sizes. When determining the appropriate dimensions, there are several things to consider. important factors, such as:

• type of fuel used. If you will heat the stove with wood, make a firebox 50-100 cm high;
• required performance;
• required volume.

To equip the firebox, use refractory bricks. The wall thickness of the structure under consideration cannot be less than half a brick.

The chimney is also one of the main elements of any heating furnace. The chimney is designed to remove flue gases with various harmful inclusions formed during the operation of the furnace.

At the design stage of the chimney, try to think through everything so that its design has a minimum number of bends and turns. Ideally, the chimney should be completely vertical. Any kind of bends will lead to a deterioration in traction and a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.

Among the important structural elements of a brick oven is the ash pan chamber. Ash will collect in this compartment. Also, air is supplied through the ash pan to the inside of the unit, to the fuel. The ash chamber is arranged under the grate of the grate and is equipped with its own door. Traditionally, the height of the ash pan is 3 bricks.

What mortar to use for masonry?

The quality of the masonry mortar directly affects the reliability and durability of the finished furnace. Masonry will be carried out using a sand-clay mortar.

There is nothing difficult in preparing the solution. Take clay, fill it with water and soak it. Sift the mixture through a sieve and then stir into "clay milk". Finally, add some water to get a sufficiently viscous and plastic solution.

Remember, the reliability and strength of the furnace directly depends on the correct preparation of the masonry mortar. Do everything right - the stove will effectively heat your home for many years. Break the technology or decide to save a lot on materials - the thermal unit is unlikely to be able to fully reveal its potential and stand for at least a long time.

The main stages and important features of laying the furnace

From the moment the foundation is poured to the start of construction, 3-4 weeks should pass. During this time, the base will gain the necessary strength and be able to withstand the weight of a brick oven. The work in question requires maximum responsibility and concentration on the part of the performer. Any mistakes can lead to irreparable consequences, so tune in to work in advance and allocate enough time to complete it.

The laying of the furnace is carried out in several stages.

First stage. Lay out the ash pan and the lower part of the first cap from the brick. Carry out masonry using the previously discussed sand-clay solution.

Second phase. Install the ash pan door into the masonry. Use galvanized wire to fix the door.

Third stage.

Fourth stage. Mount the firebox. Surround the inside of this compartment with refractory bricks. Bricks lay out "on edge". At this stage, you need to use a special masonry mortar. It is prepared in the same way as the standard one, but instead of simple clay, refractory clay is taken, i.e. fireclay. Secure the combustion chamber door with a steel plate and the wire you already know.

Fifth stage. Continue the standard laying until you reach the 12th row. Having reached this row, close the combustion chamber and evenly lay the tiles with burners. This plate must be made of cast iron. Check the evenness of the laying using the building level.

Sixth stage. Lay out the first cap. It is built in the left edge of the stove. At the same stage, a canal for the summer course is being equipped.

Seventh stage. Install the stove and lay out the walls of the cooking compartment. Keep the calculation of the lower cap mentioned earlier.

Eighth stage. Install a gate valve for the mentioned summer run channel. This valve is located in inner corner compartments for cooking.

Ninth stage. Lead the laying to the 20th row. Having reached this row, close the cooking compartment and the first hood. Be sure to leave in the solid masonry the required number of openings for the summer run and the lifting channel, as well as the vents of the cooking compartment. Place bricks on steel corners - this way you will ensure higher strength and reliability of the stove.

Tenth stage. Close the portal of the brewing compartment with hinged fireplace doors. It is better that the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. This solution will allow you to monitor the process of fuel combustion and admire the flame.

Eleventh stage. Install cleaning doors for easy soot removal. For installation, choose a place to which it will be easiest for you to get to.

Twelfth stage. Lay out the walls of the cap almost to the top edge of the wall opening. At the top, block the stove with a couple of rows of bricks. Fill the gap between the top of the stove and the jumper with mineral wool. This will provide additional thermal insulation and slightly increase the heating efficiency.

Thirteenth stage. Lay a decorative band around the upper perimeter of the unit.

Fourteenth stage. Proceed to the device of the chimney pipe. It is better that the chimney was brick. This design will last much longer than the same metal or asbestos pipes.

In the end, you just have to lay out the chimney to the end and complete it if you wish. exterior finish stoves. The easiest option is plastering. Otherwise, be guided by your own preferences and available budget.

Thus, laying the stove, although not a simple event, but it is quite possible to do it yourself. It is enough to simply understand the technology and follow the instructions in everything. Remember, the materials for work should be of the highest quality. And stove schemes proven over the years will allow you to independently build a unit that will heat your house with high quality for many years without any problems and complaints.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself laying stoves

Do-it-yourself oven, drawings, videos that you watch will help you get an idea of ​​how a three-channel heating kitchen brick oven is made.

Consider the order of the furnace, which we will do with our own hands:
First

Second

We install the blower door with a size of 130x140 (mm)

The third

Fourth

Instead of cast-iron doors for cleaning channels, we will install two halves of a brick on the edge.

Fifth

Sixth

We lay a grate with a size of 370x240 (mm). To install it, we cut down a niche in bricks so that there is a gap around the perimeter of the grate with a size of one centimeter.

Seventh

We cut down two bricks at an angle of forty-five degrees towards the grate, to roll the coals into the furnace.
We install the first smoke damper, which, in the open state, provides the summer mode of the furnace.
Install a furnace door measuring 250x180 (mm).

Eighth

Ninth

Tenth

We grind the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval, for better passing gases with the least resistance.

To clean the channels, install a half brick on the edge.

Eleventh

Saw grooves in bricks for installation cooker size 300x720 (mm).

Twelfth

Thirteenth

Fourteenth

Similarly, the twelfth.

Fifteenth

We grind the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval.

Sixteenth

Seventeenth

Eighteenth

Nineteenth

We install the second smoke damper.
Twentieth, ordering as in the eighteenth.

Twenty first

In addition, you can watch a video for a complete understanding of the masonry process.

So, you can assemble an inexpensive oven with your own hands.

The device and schemes of furnaces for the home

1. Scheme of laying a heating furnace from two tiers
2. Masonry of a square stove with bottom heating
3. Schemes of stoves for the home with predominantly lower heating
4. Furnace masonry, designed by V.

Groom-Grzhimailo
5. Laying the furnace, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Conditionally heating furnaces can be divided into two categories: modern devices and outdated designs. Instead of imperfect heat units used for a long time, manufacturing companies produce improved ones, based on the latest technologies heater models.

But in private households and suburban summer cottages, heating brick stoves are still widely used, while the schemes of stoves for the home are very diverse.

Unfortunately, from year to year there are fewer and fewer experienced stove-makers who are able to repair or remake them.

Currently, classic wood-burning stoves for houses, with their characteristic advantages, serve not to heat the premises, but to give the interior a uniqueness and originality.

Scheme of laying a heating furnace from two tiers

The device of the two-tier heating furnaces shown in the photo is a design of two parts located one on top of the other.

The parameters of each of them are 165x51x238 centimeters. The heat transfer of the lower part of the furnace is 3200 kcal per hour, and the upper one is 2600 kcal/hour.

In furnaces for private households, brick laying with voids is provided in order to lighten the weight of the structure and save material consumption. Both parts of bunk ovens have a completely identical device.

In such heat units, a channelless smoke circulation system is used. According to the scheme of laying the furnace, gases from the firebox enter the upper hood with a nozzle. After cooling, the gases go down and, at the location of the bottom of the firebox, go through the liner into the mounted chimney.
At the bottom oven chimney passes through the upper half of the structure. For this reason, the latter of them has a smaller heating surface.

The upper part of the structure has a separate chimney.

The device of the heating furnace of a two-tier design is distinguished by the simplicity of laying bricks, and the scheme for moving gases is simple. The lower half of the unit is cleaned through a door located in the rear wall, and for the upper part such a door is located in the side wall (in more detail: "Heating stoves for the house - do-it-yourself masonry").

For the functioning of the heating structure, coal or anthracite is used. Pipes for both parts are equipped with two smoke dampers.

Usually, the upper part of the voids in two-tier heating furnaces is covered with solid reinforced concrete slabs, which contributes to the strength and stability of the entire structural array.

The laying of such stoves must be carried out at a high professional level, since their alteration or repair is not an easy task (read: "How to repair a brick oven with your own hands").

Carefully lay out the chimney for the lower part of the heating bunk structure.
If leaks are allowed in the masonry, the wall separating both pipes in the upper part will allow heat to pass even when two smoke dampers are closed.

In a single array, if desired, you can combine different types ovens, having a rectangular or square shape and operating on various types fuel.

Do-it-yourself stove laying schemes

Masonry of a square stove with bottom heating

The stove in the photo is distinguished by a combined or mixed smoke circulation system. The parameters of this design are 102x102x238 centimeters. Its heat transfer is 4200 kcal/hour.

The device of square-shaped heating furnaces with lower heating suggests that the firebox in it has a relatively large height.

The lateral openings located symmetrically on both sides (2 pieces each) serve to drain gas into the chambers. They are located in the outer side walls of the structure.

The gas then descends through chambers connected by a channel under the firebox behind the ash compartment.

From the side chambers, the gases enter the risers through the lower screws and rise up through them.

There, the side chambers together form the so-called upper cap, which consists of three U-shaped cavities. These cavities are located in parallel. The heated gases are retained in the upper part of the middle and rear of them, and the already cooled waste products pass through the holes into the front plane, which at the top is connected to a mounted chimney and evaporate into the atmosphere. See also: "Heating stoves in development."

Consequently, the schemes of furnaces for a square-shaped house with lower heating have 3 caps - the upper cap and 2 large chambers.

In such a heating structure, any type of solid fuel can be used.
If it is planned that the furnace will operate on coal or anthracite, the walls of the firebox should be laid out exclusively from refractory bricks.

Schemes of stoves for the home with predominantly lower heating

If the heating structure has predominant lower heating, its size, as a rule, is 115x56x231 centimeters with a heat transfer of 2640 kcal / hour.

In accordance with the smoke circulation system, this furnace is classified as a combined duct heating unit with bottom heating.

When a furnace heating scheme for a private house is created using this design, it is understood that flue gases from the firebox will first descend and then rise up the riser to the ceiling (see also: “Kuznetsov’s heating stoves: do-it-yourself drawings and ordering”).

From there, along two parallel passages, they will go down to the 16th row of brickwork, and then they will go to the last of the risers, which passes into the chimney.

The above design is distinguished by a rational solution and simplicity, since it can provide good heating of the furnace in its lower part and it has self-regulating gas movement in both channels located in the upper part, which acts as a cap with a nozzle.
The principle of operation of the structure provides the air with the opportunity to pass at the bottom of the hood and at the same time it does not cool down.

The masonry of this stove is easy to implement and it can be built in the partition of the room in such a way that the fuel door and the front wall will go into the corridor.

The unit can be operated on coal and wood.

Furnace masonry designed by V. Grum-Grzhimailo

The channelless scheme of laying the heating furnace shown in the photo was developed by Professor V.

Groom-Grzhimailo. There is no smoke circulation in this heating structure. It has a rounded shape and is placed in a case made of sheet steel. Gases move in the furnace not due to the draft created by the chimney, but under the influence of gravity. As a result, the cooled and heavier gases sink to the bottom, and the hot lungs rise to the top.

This furnace device for the house consists of two parts - at the bottom there is a firebox.

There is a small hail (mouth) in its ceiling, which ensures the passage of flue gases to the upper part, which is a chamber without smoke circulation.
It looks like an overturned cap, shaped like a glass.

Due to this feature, such heating structures are called channelless or bell-shaped.

The heated gases in them do not enter their mouths into the chimney, since they first go up under the ceiling, and when they cool down, they fall along the walls to the base.

From there, they enter the chimney and, under the influence of draft, are carried away into the atmosphere. One vertical cut is located across the firebox, and the second horizontal one is along it.

Along the walls of the structure from the ceiling towards the roof there are buttresses designed to increase the internal surface of heat absorption and for better absorption of heat by the brick mass from exhaust gases.

The fins heated by gases allow the stove to retain heat for a longer time.

The efficiency of the design developed by Grum-Grzhimailo reaches 80%. The iron case allows you to perform masonry with a thickness of only a quarter of a brick, despite the fact that the unit heats up quickly enough. See also: "Which brick oven is better for the house - types, advantages and disadvantages."

The creation of this furnace is not difficult.

Its advantage is as follows:

- in the event that the smoke damper on the pipe is not tightly closed, the upper part of the device will not cool down from the cold air entering the firebox.

Air penetrating into the fuel compartment through the slots in the ash pan and fuel door rises through the mouth. But since it is heavier than the hot gases in the hood, it immediately overflows into the side channels and goes to the chimney. As a result, the entire part under the hail is not subjected to cooling.

As for the shortcomings of the scheme of furnaces for a house of this design, the main one is the predominant heating of the upper part. In order to level this minus a little, it is necessary to arrange holes in the walls of the firebox in the 5th row of brickwork.

The stove functions perfectly on lean coal and anthracite. If the unit is heated with firewood, especially damp, the gaps between the buttresses will become clogged with soot. It will be quite difficult to clean them, since the cleaning doors are in the 8th row, which does not allow you to completely get into all the gaps of the buttresses and then the smoke will enter the root pipe.

Channelless structures, created on the principle of free movement of gases, are made rectangular or square.

They are performed either in a metal case or without it. In the second case, the walls of the cap should be made thicker up to half a brick. See also: "Brick shield for a metal furnace."

Masonry of the furnace, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Schemes of stoves for the home, developed at the Thermal Engineering Institute by engineer Kovalevsky, have a size of 100x85x217 centimeters.

They use a mine-type firebox designed for the use of coal.

Through the channel, flue gases enter under the ceiling, from where they enter two side channels. Then they follow to the very bottom and move along the collection channel to the smoke riser. If the smoke valve is open, then the gases are vented to the atmosphere.
A feature of the furnace arrangement scheme lies in the different wall thicknesses of the smoke circulation channels.

The first of them, coming from the firebox, is called the flame channel. It has an outer wall 3/4 brick thick. The rest of its walls are laid in half a brick.

This heating structure does not fit into an iron casing. Its layout is simple.

The efficiency of the furnace engineer Kovalevsky is 75-80%. The disadvantage of the heat unit is the possibility of overheating of its upper part, since the hottest gases are directed into it. They will go down the furnace completely cooled down, as a result of which the degree of heating of the lower part is insufficient.

A certain amount of gases from the firebox enters the side channels through the screws, which increases the heating of the lower part of the outer walls (read also: " gas stove for the home - convenient heating").

Chimneys are freed from soot deposits by cleaning them. The grate can be pulled out and this facilitates the care of the combustion chamber by lowering the slag into an ash pan or a steel box located under the grate. The smoke in the structure is discharged into the built-in pipeline.

Today, owners prefer to build these brick kilns. country houses and country buildings.

In the struggle for fuel economy, and, accordingly, money, improved designs began to appear.

Now there are a large number different types new heating devices, which you can also pay attention to.

An interesting scheme of the furnace for the house is shown in the video:

Furnace masonry

The bricks of the first row are first laid out without mortar, taking into account the seam according to the order. Having determined the position of the corner bricks, we put them on the mortar, using the level to check the horizontal position. With light blows of the mallet, we upset the protruding bricks. Having achieved horizontality, we fill the perimeter of the first row with mortar bricks, controlling the masonry level.

With a tape measure, we check the dimensions of the furnace in terms of and diagonally. The diagonals in the rectangle must be equal. If the diagonals are not equal, then we knock out the corner bricks until we achieve their equality, thereby obtaining the parallelism of the sides of the perimeter. After that, we lay the middle of the first row with a brick on the mortar.

Having laid the first row, we lay the corner bricks of the second row, controlling the verticality of the corners with a level or plumb line. Similarly to the first row, we lay out the perimeter first, and then the middle of the second row according to the order.

Having laid out the second row, we hammer nails 80-100 mm long into the corners in the seam between the first and second row.

Then we lower the plumb line alternately to all corners of the second row and mark on the ceiling the points from which the plumb line was lowered.

Then we hammer the same nails into these points, tie the nylon cord to the corresponding nails and pull it.

We check the verticality of the cords with a plumb line. If there are deviations, then we eliminate them by bending the upper nails. Thus, the contour of the furnace in space is obtained. We carry out the laying of subsequent rows, controlling the verticality of the corners along the cords, which significantly reduces the time required for control.

We put the subsequent rows in the same way as the first two, checking each row with the order.

In the course of laying, we clean the inner and outer surfaces of excess squeezed mortar with a trowel. After laying out every 4-5 rows, we wipe the walls of the chimneys with a wet cloth.

The thickness of the oven masonry seam should be as thin as possible.

How to fold a brick oven with your own hands

In thick seams, the mortar crumbles and the masonry becomes fragile. The solution should fill the seam tightly, squeezing out of it. During laying, we observe the rule of ligation of bricks. Each vertical seam must be covered with a brick of the next upper row.

Usually such a seam runs in the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, is not always achievable. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it should be at least a quarter of the length of the brick.

It is better to lay out the firebox of the furnace from fireclay bricks, because.

it can withstand higher temperatures. Bandaging of masonry seams from fireclay and oven bricks is not desirable due to the different coefficient of linear expansion.

Therefore, either the entire row is laid out of fireclay bricks, or the furnace lining is made on edge. We leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the lining and fireclay bricks.

Installation of cleaning and blowing doors

Before installing the door, we check for tight fit of the canvas to the frame, free rotation of the canvas in the hinges, the absence of distortions, the possibility of fixing their closure and the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

We eliminate the detected defects before installation or replace the door.

We insert a knitting wire 50-60 cm long into the holes of the doors, fold it in half and twist it.

We apply mortar to the brickwork at the place where the door is installed. We install the door, check the verticality and horizontality and fix it with bricks.

Then we lay the ends of the wire in the seams of the masonry.

Installation of the grate

When installing oven appliances, it must be remembered that cast iron and brick do not expand the same when heated.

This especially affects the behavior of devices installed in the high temperature zone. If they are tightly walled up in the furnace masonry, then when heated, the cast iron will tear the masonry. Therefore, the grate, furnace door and stove should be installed with gaps. We lay the grate without mortar with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides. It should be freely removable for replacement in case of burnout or breakage.

Installing the furnace door

The furnace door is installed, as well as the blower door, only it is wrapped with asbestos to fill the temperature gap.

We check the verticality and horizontality of the door and fix it with bricks and boards.

With intensive use of the furnace, the wire may burn out. To prevent this, the top of the door can be secured with a clamp. The clamp is made of strip steel with a section of 25x2.0 mm. The ears should protrude 100-120 mm beyond the door frame.

The clamp is attached to the door with rivets or bolts with nuts.

The door is closed by hanging half a brick on each side

or a brick to the castle.

For an opening larger than 250 mm, the overlap is performed by a wedge jumper.

Plate installation

The row on which it will be installed, lay out the plate first without mortar.

We put the plate on top and outline its location. Then we select a groove in the brick, taking into account the temperature gap of 5 mm in all directions from the plate. We spread the brick on the mortar. We fill the groove with a solution, put an asbestos cord into it along the perimeter of the slab, lower the slab into place and upset it with a mallet, achieving its horizontal level.

Installing the oven

The oven is also wrapped with asbestos around the perimeter and half a brick wide.

The side of the oven facing the firebox is laid out with a brick on the edge, and on top it is covered with a layer of mortar of 25-30 mm to prevent the walls of the oven from burning through.

Arches and vaults

When laying furnaces, it is often necessary to block various furnace openings, fireboxes and all kinds of chambers, using bridges of simple and complex shapes. The overlap in the wall is called an arch, and the overlap arranged between the walls is called a vault.

The number of bricks in the arch and rows in the vault must be odd. The middle odd brick is the castle brick.

Any jumper begins with the laying of heels, which are performed according to the template. Since the height of the arch or vault is different, the angle of the heel also changes.

You can not use one form of the heel for all arches and vaults.

These photographs show the installation of the circle and the laying of the arched ceiling of the barbecue firebox.

And the following photos show the laying of the vault to cover the niche for firewood.

They say that it is better to see once than to read 100 times, so I have prepared a video guide “Do-it-yourself ovens” especially for you, which shows all the nuances of laying a brick oven in video format.

I define the basic rules for laying the stove, which may not even be known to the stove journalist or the person who decided to turn on the stove:

The weight of the oven with the pipe installed without a base must not exceed 750 kg.

This is about 0.5 m of walls or 200 bricks.
If you are laying a slab base, you should check to see if the chimney can switch between the support beams in the attic and the shingles.
The base of the oven must not be tied to the base of the house, and the structure of the oven must not be covered by the supporting structures of the building.

You can let them sit at the incision and swelling. This is done in order to avoid damage to the slab in case of unequal settlement of the house.
Wooden elements of the house and smoke must be at least a quarter of a meter.
If the kiln is not to be closed, the water for the wall mortar must be potable or rain water without salt, otherwise all the salt on the surface of the brick will appear as a white coating.
The grout sand must be used by a quarry (not a river) because the river sand particles have a rounded surface, making the grout brittle.
Stove and fireplace - brick column on clay mortar.

And even the smallest heels or side impacts from the load-bearing structures of home cracks form, which can cause a fire.

What to look for when making masonry bricks

Protect yourself and make sure the oven lasts as long as possible - this is the main task of building a solid base, a horizontal wall and the verticality of the massage itself.

Therefore, after laying the foundation, the upper platform must be carefully planned. A layer of roofing felt is superimposed on it, 1-2 cm of sand is poured on top and leveled, and the first colorless brick is laid. Repair the gasket and press the hammer on the protruding bricks. The horizontality of each line is checked using the level specified in the rule. The squareness of the first row is checked by comparing the length of the diagonal.

As you place each line, check its flatness using the wall rule. After installing the two types, in order to ensure the verticality of the furnace box, you need to pull out the strings with a thickness of 1-3mm at the corners of the wall.

Ceiling attachment points are determined by the towing line. Above, the water line is lowered in such a way that the weight drops to the top of the outer corner of the oven. On the floor on the ceiling, from which the groove descends, the nail bends, a rope is attached to it. At the lower end, the second nail is tied and pulls the rope, we insert the nail under the corner brick of the first row so that the cable is strictly stretched along the corner.

The rope vertical is then exposed to the tray, which bends the top nail in the desired direction. So repeat all four corners.
The seams should be 5 mm thick. To do this, place laying strips along the edges of the joint, spread the mortar, place the brick and place it in place with a stroke of the handle. After the solution has dried, remove the spacers.
External walls should not have more than two types without stitching, otherwise cracks may occur.
The proportion of bricks can be obtained with Bulgarian, and the wall should be kept to a minimum, as bricks are more prone to breakage.
Parts of cigarettes are located side by side in the seams.
In the area changing the direction of the flow of the smoked bottom, always the door is defined as a cleaning hole, or better "brick pushing" that extends 5-10 mm from the wall, is easier to understand than the necessary cleaning of the chimney.
The gasket should be planned so that the brick does not rely solely on the door frame or oven, and closes over them or is made into a wedge lock or vault.

This is done to simplify the replacement of unsuccessful furnace equipment.
Clamps (narrow metal profiles) as well as other steel parts should be used less as metal takes longer to heat up than clay and can no longer be broken by this clutch. To avoid this, place the steel bands loose, without mortar or wrapped in a layer of asbestos.

The oven door, including the oven, is positioned so that it can be heated without touching the wall. If you want to do this, you can use asbestos with a layer of 5 mm that you are in contact with the vineyard.
The grate and cast iron plate are laid with a minimum step of 5 mm on all sides so that they can be easily removed for replacement.

Place them without mortar (you can place the plate on asbestos or asbestos layer) and fill the slots with sand.
The grates should be placed in the firebox under smoke smoke up to 70-150mm, so as not to fall out when the coal door is opened and laid along the firebox recesses, and the ashes will be difficult to clean the poker when preparing the stove for subsequent ignition.
Doors and corners must be fixed in the wall, which is screwed into holes and steel wire with two-core wires.

At the other ends twist past the nail and pull the wire, keep it in the nearest vertical seam.
The space between the oven and the side wall of the oven must be covered with bricks.
The length of the chimney, regardless of the pipe frame, should not exceed 7 m, otherwise the draft will be insufficient and smoke will occur in the chimney.
The walls of the chimneys must be flat and even.

To the solution in the chicken, the vertical channels do not get inside the oven, and the foam plug is wrapped in a damp cloth and suspended inside the chimney on a wire.

Periodically remove and clean it, make a canopy from the channel with a damp cloth.
For fire safety, the distance from the ceiling of the oven to the ceiling must be at least 35 cm.
For the same purpose, the floor must consist of at least three types of continuous blocks.
To protect the floor under the fireplace stove, place a metal heating sheet.
The approximate ratio of the size of the fireplace inlet to the surface of the heated area is 1:70.
Area ratio cross section a rectangular tube at a height of 5 m to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe entrance to the fireplace should be approximately 13%, a chimney height of 10 m - about 10%.
In case of prevailing wind, a fire (or as you call it, a smoke chamber, an umbrella on a pipe, a cap on a pipe) must be installed.

Protects the oven from smoking in windy weather and protects it when it rains. Tags:

Knowledge, Domostroy

Brick heating stoves

Since ancient times, brick has been used to build a furnace. Thanks to modern technologies it became possible to use other building materials for these purposes.

Despite this, the brick remained in the leading position among all masonry materials, brick heating stoves are in great demand.

Many build stoves for the home on their own, as this process simple enough.

To build a brick oven with your own hands, you need to have a little idea of ​​\u200b\u200bbuilding. Installing such a furnace will not be difficult, since it does not require further lining. (See also: Brick sauna stove)

For such work it is necessary a small amount of tools, namely:

• Container for preparing the solution.
• Emery tool.
• Construction pencil.
• Pliers.

Types of brick ovens

Currently, there are separate types of brick heating stoves, some of which are intended for heating homes, others for preparing tasty and healthy home-cooked food, and others perform only decorative functions.

There are also models that perform several functions at once, these include a heating and cooking stove made of bricks. This type of stove is also called "Swede", and in some areas they are called "Dutch".

Fireplace stoves are no less famous.

In this case, opinions different people are separated. Some believe that the fireplace should stand separately, others are quite satisfied with the built-in stove.

The second option is the most economical in terms of space and use. Supplies. Such an oven heats up the room quickly enough. In addition, a do-it-yourself brick mini-oven does not require much knowledge and skills in construction.

So, it can become an adornment of absolutely any home.

A brick oven-barbecue is a simple device, although it looks rather complicated. This stove can be used as an alternative to an ordinary barbecue.

So her building in the yard own house won't be too difficult. (See also: Brick ovens for summer cottages)

It is important to remember: the orders of brick ovens belonging to a certain type are strikingly different from each other.

Furnace Requirements

Most of the sites that are devoted to this topic set themselves the task of selling a ready-made furnace project. But what about people who decide to build a stove on their own, but they do not have enough experience and knowledge to create brick heating stove projects.

To greatly facilitate your work, you need to understand what requirements apply to modern brick kilns.

It is worth noting that these parameters are used by professional architects when drafting absolutely all types of brick ovens. The list of requirements includes: (See also: Do-it-yourself oven construction)

1. Profitability.
2. The ability to retain heat for a long time.
3. Compliance with fire safety standards.
4. Good heating of the entire volume of the furnace.
5. Easy to operate.
6. Ease of maintenance.
7. Durability.
8. Beautiful design.

Preparing for the construction of the furnace: determining the location

The laying of brick heating stoves begins with determining its location, based on their purpose.

The heating stove is best placed in the center of the house, since if it adjoins at least one side to the wall facing the street, its efficiency will be lost. In addition, unwanted temperature fluctuations may occur, which negatively affect the life of the hearth. As well as the efficiency of the chimney.

The combination oven must be positioned in the same way as the heating one.

The only condition is that the brick fireboxes face the kitchen. And the stove-fireplace should be located in the living room with a fireplace.

Solution preparation

Next, you need to do cement mortar. For its preparation, clay is poured with water. At the same time, it must be sifted in advance, without stones. This will make the masonry more durable. (See also: Brick oven for a summer residence)

Important: a properly prepared clay mortar is a guarantee of the durability of the stove.

Soaked clay is mixed with the same amount of sand.

After that, water is poured into the container, the volume of which is ¼ of the volume of clay. The solution must be thoroughly mixed so that there is not a single lump. The mortar must have a liquid consistency so that when pressed on the brick, it is squeezed out from the seam.

dry masonry

Before you start laying the brick on the mortar, it is recommended to make a dry masonry.

ATTENTION: in no case is it allowed to take measurements by eye, as this can lead to a disastrous result.

To keep the correct direction when laying, it is necessary to check its verticality, dressing of seams, internal organization, the correctness of the seams and the horizontal laying. (See also: How to lay the stove)

The construction of the furnace

Before starting to use a brick, it is dipped in water for a few seconds. As a result, it will not absorb the moisture that clay releases.

When laying a brick, it is necessary to press it as hard as possible so that the mortar is squeezed out strongly.

In this way, a more durable building can be achieved. Small-sized brick heating stoves require compliance with the thickness of the mortar due to their design features. It should be at least 3 and not more than 5 millimeters.

Excess solution is removed with a trowel, this will save it.

The oven door is fixed with wire.

If this is neglected, a backlash may form, which will lead to the door falling out. For a more secure fastening, the wire is inserted into the box and twisted in half. After that, it is required to make a cut in the upper edge of the brick block, into which the wire will be inserted.

Important: the connectors must match with the door frame.

A gap of even one millimeter should not be allowed to form.

At the end of the masonry, it is required to dry the oven. To do this, open all windows and doors. The oven will dry out completely only after 15 days. The fact that the stove is ready for use is indicated by the disappearance of all damp traces.

Detailed instructions for laying a brick stove

After determining the place, the first row is laid, on which a sheet of thick polyethylene film, roofing felt or waterproofing is subsequently laid.

This is necessary for the waterproofing device. The size of the site should be 780 by 350 millimeters. After that, sand is sifted, which is then poured in a layer of one centimeter. To avoid the formation of protrusions, the site is carefully leveled. Verification is carried out by the building level.

In order not to be mistaken with the built structure, dry masonry is also checked by the building level. On this, the most important row can be considered ready.

After that, the entire surface is filled with a thin layer of mortar and a blower door is placed, which must be wrapped with asbestos cardboard and cords made of the same material.

The door is fixed with annealed wire, after which you can prepare for the formation of the next row.

The third row must be laid out from fireclay bricks, which are painted yellow.

A grate is laid on the same row. The fourth row is laid on edge. Also at this stage, it is necessary to make special stands inside the chimney. It should be noted that bricks rear wall placed without the use of mortar.

Due to the fact that this space is made for wells, which are called areas for cleaning the furnace from soot, they are called knockout.

A little later, the installation of the furnace door is carried out.

So that it can open from the bottom up, it is wrapped with an asbestos cord, after which it is fixed with wire. For some time it is supported by bricks. To make sure it stays vertical.

The manufacture of the back wall is carried out using two bricks, which are placed on the edge.

And already from the next row, the layer is laid out, starting with three fours.

Scheme and laying of brick ovens

This will allow you to perform a more durable dressing of the seams.

On the eighth row, a beveled brick is installed, which acts as a smoke tooth. The ninth row needs to be moved back a little to provide support while opening the door. Before installation hob, an asbestos cord is installed, which is pre-soaked in water. A chimney is formed from the same row, which should expand into the fuel chamber.

This is done in order to prevent the passage of smoke into the room. At the very end, a chimney is mounted, which must be docked with metal pipe. If it shifts to the side, an overlap of three rows of bricks is required.

At the end of the work, it is cleaned through the knockout brick inner part stoves from clay and water.

A piece cut from polyethylene material is placed on the hob. This is done in order to avoid the appearance of yellowness in the future. On this brick oven with a stove is ready. We must not forget that it will be possible to use it only after it has completely dried out.

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Drawings of a brick sauna stove

Drawings of a brick sauna stove of a simple and compact design, which is used to produce steam and heat water.

The figure shows the construction of a brick oven, in a section along two sections.

How drawings with orders help to lay out brick ovens for the house

1. Red brick masonry.
2. Laying fire-resistant (chamotte) bricks.
3. Furnace door.
4. Blower door.
5. Grate.
6. Metal tank for hot water.
7. Metal bin for bath stones.
8. Smoke damper.

Drawing of the furnace, where its overall dimensions are indicated.

The firebox inside the furnace is made of refractory heat-resistant bricks. The gap between red and refractory bricks is 15…20 (mm). Behind the firebox, at the level of the grate, a metal water tank is installed.

A metal bunker is installed on top of the firebox, in which stones with a slide are placed. The presented design with an open heater quickly heats up the steam room, and if the stones have cooled down, you can burn fuel while taking bath procedures.

Material specification:

• red brick, 65 x120 x 250 (mm) - 181 (pcs.)
• refractory refractory brick, 65 x 114 x 230 (mm) - 72 (pcs.)
• clay - 60 (kg)
• refractory clay - 35 (kg)
• sand - 32 (kg)
• smoke damper - 140 x 270 (mm)
• furnace door - 250 x 205 (mm)
• blower door - 250 x 135 (mm)
• cast iron grate - 250 x 252 (mm)
• water tank - 250 x 555 x 760 (mm), stainless steel sheet thickness 3 (mm)
• stone bin - 260 x 320 x 350 (mm), stainless steel sheet thickness 3 (mm)
• square metal grid, wire diameter 2 (mm), mesh size 15…20 (mm)

Masonry stove for a sauna heater designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin.

1st row. Solid brick masonry is displayed at or above the floor level.
2nd row. They install the blower door, start laying refractory bricks, while strictly observing the rules for ligation of bricks.
3rd row. According to the order.
4th row. The blower door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle, as shown in the figure.

5th row. Grooves are cut out in refractory bricks and a grate is installed in them.
6th row. They put the firebox door and install a metal tank for hot water.

Reference:
Odd rows of red brick masonry are tied with a strip of welded square metal mesh.
At the corners, the mesh strip is bent at an angle of 90°.

The width of the groove for the grate should be 5 ... 8 (mm) larger than the outer dimensions of the grate.

7th and 8th row. According to the order.
9th row. The firebox door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle.
10, 11, 12th row. According to the order.

13th row. According to the order.
14th row. Lay a metal tank for hot water and install a metal bin for stones.

Drawing of a metal bunker for stones.

15, 16 row. According to the order.
17 row. Grooves are cut out in bricks and a valve is installed in them.
18 row. Closes the smoke damper.

Drawings of a brick sauna stove designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin and the ordering scheme are considered in the presented material.

Reference:
The heating time of water and stones is 150…180 (min.)

In the following article, you can familiarize yourself with the device of a sauna stove with a heat exchanger.

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In past centuries, the only means of heating for households was a stove, and stove-makers lived in good prosperity and enjoyed great respect among people. Today, stoves have not gone into oblivion and are still very popular in homes, baths and saunas.

With the development of the Internet, anyone can become a stove-maker. To do this, you just need to set a goal, acquire the necessary materials and find the right tools. You can fold the oven with your own hands.

Folding a brick oven is not the easiest thing to do. To begin with, careful preparation of materials, tools, plans is necessary. But first of all, you need to decide which of the many types of stoves you want to make.

• Heating stoves. As the name implies, their main task is to heat the room. Furnaces of this type are extremely simple, have a simple design and do not build them for long.
• Combined ovens. A more versatile type of oven than the first. They are somewhat more complicated in construction, but they have not only the function of heating the room. These ovens can be used for cooking. In some versions, even ovens are built into them.
• Furnaces-fireplaces. The ideal type of stove for a private house or cottage. Possessing unrivaled appearance, they do a good job of heating your building. A well-built and well-crafted fireplace will become an interior highlight of your home.

Some craftsmen rank furnaces not according to their main function, but according to the shape of the unit: square, rectangular, round, and so on.

Of course, almost any homeowner can make a stove with their own hands. Numerous schemes and manuals will help you do it efficiently and with minimal time. The oven can be of any size, shape and purpose. However, it should be remembered that the main condition for its successful construction will be fire safety.

The main advantages of a brick oven

With the widespread development of private households, conventional brick ovens are increasingly being used. Often they are preferred to modern heating devices: gas and other boilers. Not to mention metal furnaces. Among the main positive features of brick ovens are:

• Long-term heat retention. A brick oven is a real heat accumulator. Due to the material of manufacture, it keeps the temperature almost throughout the day. Accordingly, it needs to be heated much less frequently, and firewood should be thrown up no more than once every 4-6 hours.
• Profitability. As mentioned earlier, the stove keeps heat longer, which means you heat it less often and spend less fuel.
• Environmental friendliness. The stove consists of natural materials and is heated mainly with wood.
• Security. The outer planes of the furnace are not exposed to strong heat. Brickwork gradually takes away excess heat from the firebox and transfers it to the surrounding space. This means that the thermal radiation will be softer than from an iron stove.
• Breath. The furnace releases moisture from the brick during firing, which softens the air. When cooling, the masonry is moistened again. Humidity is always at the level of 40-60 percent, which is good for the human respiratory system.

Disadvantages of a brick oven

The main disadvantage of a brick oven is considered long time warming up a cold room. Since this structure is much more massive than any metal convector, it will take many times more time to heat up. Only after that the furnace will begin to give off heat.

Another disadvantage is the potential for poisoning carbon monoxide when used incorrectly.

Where is the best place in the house to install the stove

Before starting work, you need to decide where in your house it will be located. For example, if you place a heating structure in the middle of a large room, it will give off much more heat.

If you build a stove against a wall, as most people do, then cold air will go near the floor near it. Some people prefer to place the stove between several rooms so that the dining room, living room and bedroom fall along the plane of the stove. However, only relatively small rooms can be heated in this way.

In advance, it is necessary to provide for the placement of the furnace door and other parts of the furnace. During operation, you must freely use all the components of the furnace. Most often, the door is placed in sparsely populated rooms, for example, in the kitchen or in the corridor.

What materials are used for laying a brick oven

Preparing for the construction of the furnace is a troublesome but enjoyable event. You will need to decide what material you will build the oven from, what solution to use, what doors and other elements to purchase.

First you need to decide which brick will be used. There are several types of it:

• Ceramic - the most common and popular material for laying the furnace.
• Silicate - a type of brick that is categorically unsuitable for the construction of furnaces.
• Refractory - well suited for the construction of furnaces. Most often they lay the firebox of a brick oven and fireplaces. Can be refractory, fireclay and others.

IMPORTANT! When choosing a type of brick - discard its hollow and hollow types. They are not strong enough.

The next thing you need to decide on the solution. Most often, clay is used for this purpose. For ceramic bricks - red, for refractory - special fireclay clay. You can buy ready-made mixtures in hardware stores and dilute according to the instructions.

Some oven masters still prepare mortars for masonry with their own hands. To do this, they mix river sand with a fraction of one and a half millimeters, clay and water. The proportion of sand and clay is 2.5 to 1.

Of the additional accessories, grates are bought (special grates, which in the future will be located between the firebox and the blower); doors for the furnace and blower, soot cleaners, valves and dampers.

To build your furnace, you will need the following tools:

• plumb;
• measuring tape;
• trowel;
• spatulas of different sizes;
• metaba;
• wire;
• level;
• metal pieces;
• containers for solutions.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, it is necessary to decide where the heating structure will be located. Its configuration and dimensions depend on the choice of location.

When planning, it should be remembered that the chimney should not be located near the rafters - closer than 15 centimeters. Otherwise, trouble may arise.

An important element of any furnace is its foundation. In area, it should be larger than the furnace itself. The base must also be provided with preliminary waterproofing.

We make the foundation for the stove

The foundation can be made from any brick, some stove-makers use crushed stone to make it.

The most durable will be the furnace, the foundation of which was laid along with the house in which it is located. It is worth noting that both foundations are laid separately from each other. Otherwise, the settlement of the walls of the building will lead to a violation of the geometry heater will damage its integrity.

If the stove will be built in an already finished house, then several difficulties will have to be overcome. If wooden floors are equipped inside the premises, then they are dismantled at the construction site. A possible indent from the external contours of the future furnace is 15 centimeters.

1. Digging a foundation pit. Its depth depends on climatic conditions and the level of soil freezing. For the middle latitudes of Russia, a depth of 0.8 meters will be optimal. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand 15 centimeters high. A 15-centimeter layer of gravel is poured on top. Both layers must be carefully compacted.
2. The next step is to stick wooden stakes into the corners of the future stove, and a purlin is attached to them. It turns out a kind of formwork for the foundation. Its wall joints must be covered with polyethylene so that the cement does not leak into the cracks.
3. Let's move on to pouring the foundation. The concrete solution is mixed from cement grade M-400, sand and gravel. It is important not to overdo it with water; in terms of consistency, liquid concrete should have medium fluidity. Otherwise, the strength of the foundation will be less.
4. The mixture is poured into the formwork, compacted and leveled with a rule.

IMPORTANT! The top edge of the stove base should be 15-20 centimeters below the floor level.

A few hours after the initial setting, the formwork is wrapped with foil. It is necessary to wait for the complete drying of the concrete solution, it takes several weeks.

How to fold a simple small oven

Such a compact and easy-to-build stove is perfect for heating a small country house, cottage or garage. Its design is extremely simple and does not have gas revolutions, the level of heat transfer is not very high. It will heat a room with a maximum of 16 squares.

For such a furnace there is no need for a powerful foundation. It is enough for you to lay the gravel to a depth of 15-20 centimeters and pour it with concrete.

The dimensions of the furnace will be 2 by 2.5 bricks, which is approximately 51 by 64 centimeters. Due to the lack of a blower chamber, it is necessary to drill holes in the firebox door.

Construction features:

• The order of such a stove is simple. Keep the bricks lined up so that the brick on top covers the seam between the two bricks below it.
• On row number 8, the firebox begins to narrow. To do this, use ¾ of a brick. And as a result, the exit from the combustion chamber has an area of ​​\u200b\u200bone brick.
• The ninth level is placed in the same way as the seventh. That is, a whole brick is used.
• The tenth tier will be specific. The bricks on it are placed not flat, but on the edge, strictly along the contour of the notch on the row below.
• On top of the tenth tier, the bricks are again laid traditionally - flat. For its calculation, you will need two solid bricks and four ¾. Thanks to this arrangement, you will narrow the smoke channel.
• Next, the bricks are again placed on the edge, and the smoke channel is divided in half. In cross section, the masonry of this level will resemble a figure eight on a calculator. On the next tier, the bricks are flat again. Alternating the masonry method in this way, lay out five rows.
• On the next four rows, the bricks are placed flat.
• On the last two rows, the smoke passage is narrowed so that in cross section its size is exactly half a brick (12 by 12 centimeters).
• A smoke damper is installed, a steel chimney pipe is attached to it.

How to fold an oven with a hob

You can also build a stove equipped with a hob with your own hands. The simplest option will have dimensions of 78 by 53 centimeters. That is, 2 bricks wide and 3 long. Despite the small dimensions, one burner can be placed on such a unit.

The base of such a furnace should be 10 centimeters larger than the dimensions of itself. And the foundation is made in such a way that the first row of bricks goes from the floor level.

If there is an underground floor more than half a meter high under the house, then you do not need to dig the foundation for the stove. You can make a formwork on the ground and lay two layers of roofing material on the bottom (this will protect the structure from moisture). Next, concrete is poured and the foundation is given at least a week to dry. After that, you can start laying.

Construction features:

• The starting row is installed on a clay solution, 5 millimeters thick. Aligning it in level, proceed to the second. It is also necessary to leave a place for the blower door on it.
• Before installation, a wire is screwed to the door, the ends of which are placed in the seams between the bricks. This will provide a better hold.
• Since the metal expands when heated, it is necessary to leave a gap between the edges of the masonry and the door. The frame of the door itself is wrapped with an asbestos cord before installation.
• The third row is laid in such a way that the bricks overlap the seams of the previous tier. At the same time, the grate is being installed.
• Row number four is different from the previous one, since the firebox walls are formed on it. The bricks on it are stacked on the edge, while it is important to observe the "dressing" of the seams.
• Behind the chamber for the furnace is a smoke circulation. In order to be able to remove ash from it in the future, the brick is laid in the back without mortar.
• In the chimney, two coasters are made of fragments of bricks so that the internal partition rests on them.
• The stones of row No. 5 are placed flat, do not forget to leave room for the door to the firebox.
• When laying smoke channels, be sure to clean their interior from protruding clay with a wet rag. Otherwise, the flow of smoke will be disturbed.
• On the eighth tier, it is necessary to transfer the door to the combustion chamber. Don't forget to put the wire from it into the seams. On the same tier, the installation of a "smoke tooth" is recommended. This is a brick with a beveled end, thanks to which it enhances heat transfer and slows down the exit of smoke to the street through the pipe.
• When laying the ninth row, it is necessary to install an asbestos cord covered in clay mortar. It seals the joint of the cast-iron plate with brickwork.
• On the tenth row, a cast-iron stove with a burner is placed on top of the firebox.
• Row No. 11 is notable for the fact that a smoke damper is mounted on it in the pipe, the contour of which is also sealed with asbestos cord and clay.
• On the last two rows of brickwork, the walls of the chimney are formed. Then the pipe is placed there.

Upon completion of the construction of the stove must be dried. To do this, open all the doors and valves in it, and then leave it for a week. Next, a test furnace is produced. Use a small amount of wood chips and brushwood.

The order or scheme for the construction of your stove

In the construction of furnaces, everything is exactly the same as in any other construction work. You need to start with the preparation of the drawing. In this case, it is called “ordering”, it is a schematic representation of each row of brickwork from a top view.

Roughly speaking, if your stove from the base to the end of the chimney consists of 20 rows of bricks, then before installation work you need to make yourself 20 schemes. Without order, the successful construction of a furnace is almost hopeless.

In the network and specialized literature, you can find hundreds of different drawings. You can make them yourself - according to the size of your home and your needs.

To do this, you should know that each oven consists of the following parts:

• A firebox is a furnace chamber into which fuel is laid. In it, the process of its combustion also takes place. It is separated from the blower by grates. It has a direct connection to the internal channels of the stove, through which the smoke is directed from it to the street.
• Blower chamber - the cavity of the stove, through which oxygen is supplied to the furnace, which is necessary for burning firewood. Burnt fuel residues also enter it through the seals.
• Devices for cooking and heating water - built-in optionally, depending on the purpose of the furnace device.
• Cleaning chambers - cavities needed to collect and remove soot.

Brick lining of a metal furnace

Metal stoves, unlike stone ones, are not as heavy and are quite easy to install. Their disadvantage is that they are overheated during the combustion process and quickly give off heat to the surrounding room. They also cool down quickly.

Moreover, according to scientists, the thermal radiation coming from them does not affect a person as favorably as the soft heat coming from brick counterparts. Moreover, you can’t lie down on such a stove and dry your laundry.

In Russia, the practice of facing metal furnaces with brickwork is popular. Of course, the properties of such a heating structure will not be as outstanding as those of a full-fledged stone stove. True, and negative effects in the form of overheating and radiation will be less.

IMPORTANT! Most often, the lining of iron furnaces is made in a bath. This allows you to save both time and money.

Construction features:

• For facing iron furnaces, the same brick and mortar are suitable as for the construction of their "ceramic" counterparts.
• The construction of the foundation is optional, and depends on the dimensions and weight of the future furnace. If the floor covering is concrete, 1-2 continuous rows of bricks are laid on it. Let dry.
• If you want to build a furnace up to the ceiling, you need to dig a pit and pour the foundation.
• The site for the construction should be 8-10 centimeters along the perimeter more than the future building.
• 4 beacons are placed at the corners of the base, they will be your marks during bricklaying.
• The brick "cover" around the iron stove should be 10-12 centimeters larger than it. There must be free space between them.
• After finishing the lining, the structure should dry well without extraneous heating.

Conclusion

Home brick oven is an efficient and environmentally friendly tool for heating your home and cooking. In the 21st century, they have not lost their relevance, and continue to serve millions of homeowners faithfully. It is worth remembering that any stove will work well only in a well-insulated house. Otherwise, all the thermal energy will go through the cracks to the street.

Apart from useful properties, the stove is also a unique interior solution. It will give you not only warmth, but also an indescribable feeling of comfort and aesthetic pleasure.

Most domestic holiday villages do not yet have the opportunity to connect to centralized communications. From the infrastructure it is good if there are paved roads and power lines. In such conditions, the construction of a brick oven for wood-fired cottages will help solve an important problem: it will provide thermal energy for space heating and cooking.

We have selected for you schemes and arrangements of the simplest furnace structures, which a novice master can handle with laying. With our help, home craftsmen will easily master the basics of a difficult, but extremely interesting activity stove-maker. An impeccably built structure will delight both the owner and the household.

Except detailed description masonry technology brick ovens we provide valuable recommendations on the selection of materials for the construction of units. Significant subtleties and the smallest nuances are scrupulously spelled out in the article. To help independent stove builders, schemes of stove structures, orderly briefing, photo and video guides are attached.

Competent selection of material for a structure subjected to high-temperature exposure is an important part of the work of a trained stove-maker. After all, the unit will be operated in far from simple conditions, while it should not malfunction, crack and collapse.

Option # 1 - a stove with a single burner panel

This is an extremely simple and compact design, as if elongated in the vertical direction. In the example, it is equipped with a door with heat-resistant glass, which allows you to monitor the process. If it is not possible to purchase just such a door, a cast-iron variety is quite suitable.