Light extensions to country houses. Layout of an extension to a private house. Extension to a wooden house. Wooden, brick, frame outbuildings: projects, construction. How to make an extension to the house: the choice of materials

18.11.2019

If you decide that you just need a brick extension to brick house, then initially it is necessary to decide what purpose such a veranda will have. If you plan to use it for recreation, then it makes sense to build outdoor terrace or a gazebo. If necessary, to further insulate the house, you can build a closed veranda, which will play the role of a vestibule between the front door and the street. This approach will prevent the passage of cold masses into the home. For those summer residents who visit Vacation home mainly in autumn, an insulated extension is perfect, then in winter it will be possible to sit in it with a cup of tea.

Design and building permit

Before a brick extension to a brick house is erected, it is necessary to create its project and approve it in the appropriate authority. Most often, the veranda is attached in such a way as to cover front door. Therefore, if the house is already ready, then it is not always possible to install an extension from the side you want. If you place a veranda without entering the house, then the room will be torn off from the main building, and you will have to carry tea and food into it across the street.

You can choose the size of the extension yourself, taking into account the number of people who could rest on it at the same time. For a family of 6 members, an outbuilding with dimensions of 3x4 meters will suffice. It is important to take into account the general view from the street. If the veranda is small, and the building itself consists of two floors, then the architectural ensemble is unlikely to look harmonious. Whereas for little house a veranda the width of the wall of the building is perfect. This will increase the usable area, and from the side the extension will look decent.

Before a brick extension to a brick house is installed, it must be officially legalized, whatever its purpose. It is necessary to carry out these manipulations even before the start of construction. After you have come up with the design of the extension and its general appearance, you need to visit a special department that deals with the design of buildings. There you will have the opportunity to order a project of the veranda, after its completion, you need to go to the architectural department of the city, where you will receive a building permit and make changes to the project of the house. As practice shows, it is recommended to do this in advance, since the design and its approval can take about 2 months. That is why it is better to do such work in the winter, when the construction season has not begun.

Territory marking

If you need a brick extension to a brick house, then you can do the work on its construction yourself. At the first stage, it is necessary to mark and break the site. To do this, the master will have to remove the fertile layer, deepening by 15 centimeters. The soil can be used on flower beds or on the territory of the cottage. The construction site is leveled, only after you can proceed to its breakdown. Using the dimensions specified in the project, you should mark the boundaries of the extension. To do this, at the corners of the future veranda, you need to drive iron rods or wooden pegs, pulling twine between them.

Building a foundation

Before making an extension to a brick house, it is imperative to create a foundation, which can be tape or columnar. Most often, foundations are built for verandas, the depth of which is equal to a given parameter, characteristic of the foundation of the main building. Experts do not recommend linking these elements together into a monolith, since the veranda and the house will have different weights, therefore, different degrees of shrinkage. In order for a heavy house not to pull a light building along with it, the veranda must be installed on separate bases. A 4-centimeter gap should be provided between the foundation of the house and the extension.

For reference

If you are thinking about the question of how to make an extension to a brick house, then you need to take into account the features of the soil on the ground and total weight verandas. During construction, the foundation can move during operation, then the extension will move away from the wall of the main building. Lightweight foundations are not designed for heavy walls, so they can shrink under weight.

Construction of a strip foundation

Veranda, can be installed on a strip base. To do this, use concrete. Initially, a trench is dug, the dimensions of which are selected taking into account the foundation of the house. Formwork is laid in the pit, the height of which should be equal to the height of the future base or slightly more. It must be formed from boards knocked together. For you should use six parts of crushed stone, three parts of sand, part of cement.

The foundation for a brick extension is poured in several layers, the first of which is reinforced with stones. Then you can start pouring the next portion, in which stones are added. For the top layer, stones are not required, the surface must be leveled with a trowel and left for 4 days. If the weather is hot outside, then twice a day the surface of the foundation must be watered, so it will be possible to avoid the appearance of cracks.

Construction of a column foundation

It can also be installed on a columnar base. This approach is relevant in the case when the extension will have completely small size. In order to insure against a hole, you need to dig below the freezing depth of the soil, which is more than 1 meter. For brick walls, it will be necessary to install supports not only in the corners, but also around the perimeter, placing the elements in increments of 60 centimeters.

Work methodology

Before starting the construction of a brick extension to the house, it is necessary to dig holes, at the bottom of each of which a 20-centimeter layer of sand is poured. It is carefully tamped, spilled with water. Next, the master can start pouring concrete, which should reach the surface of the earth. After the solution hardens, it should be smeared with bitumen, filling the gaps between it and the ground with sand. The above-ground part of the support is created from block masonry or bricks, so that the height of the element reaches the main foundation or is slightly lower. Approximately 30 centimeters should remain until the finishing floor of the veranda.

Brick wall construction

A brick extension to a brick house with your own hands may well be done. Before you start building walls, you need to check how horizontal the surface of the foundation is. If the base is uneven, then the laying may be deformed and cracked during shrinkage. In order to connect the main wall with the extension, it is necessary to make holes in it during the construction of the walls, deepening by 2/3. It is necessary to drill such holes through 3 rows of masonry. Reinforcement is installed in them, which will protrude from the wall by 0.5 meters. It is to be laid in the seams of the future masonry. In order for the seams in these rows not to be too wide, the reinforcement should not have a very large diameter.

Before laying the bricks, a string should be stretched along the wall, along which it will be possible to control the horizontal rows. Verticality is checked with a plumb bob. The thickness of the walls is determined by the purpose of the future extension. If it is supposed to make a living room out of it, then the masonry should be one or two bricks thick. If the room will serve as a utility room or veranda, then 1/2 brick masonry will suffice.

After the construction of the brick walls is completed, they need to be pulled over the top with a concrete belt, for which a formwork is made into which the reinforcing structure is placed, poured with concrete mortar. After the concrete hardens, the formwork is removed, and the master proceeds to the flooring device.

Covering the extension

The extension of the garage to the brick house is being built using the same technology as described in the article. Only in this case, the dimensions of the room will be determined by the dimensions of the car. At the next stage, the ceiling is equipped, for which bars are used, they will act as beams. These items are installed on upper part walls at a distance of 70 centimeters from each other. Their fixation is made by special corners. When installing beams on brick building they can be embedded in a concrete belt, having previously wrapped the edge of each of them with roofing material. Now you can hem the beams with thick plywood or boards, on which the insulation will be laid on top.

Projects for an extension to a brick house may include the presence of a roof of various designs. However, most often single-sided options are used for this, which consist of rafters. The angle of inclination can vary from 25 to 30 degrees, this is necessary in order for precipitation to winter time did not stay on the surface. On the facade of the roof or wall, a mark should be made in the form of a flat horizontal line, according to which the bars supporting the rafters will be fixed. The bottom support for them will be the edge of the wall or the rafters should extend beyond the boundaries of the walls by 300 millimeters to protect them from rainwater. The rafters are fixed with metal corners.

For a number of reasons, some private houses and cottages need additional premises. A room for a kitchen, a bathroom or a closed veranda - everyone has their own plans for an additional extension. This article will help you figure out how to build an extension to the house with high quality and independently.

Requirements for premises

It is possible to make an extension to the house with your own hands. The best when appearance such a room to be combined with the house itself. But this factor is not always the most important, the main thing is that the extension is durable and of high quality. Given the ease and reliability of the design, many choose a frame extension to the house. It is budget-friendly, reliable and quickly built.

Think over all the details in advance. Each type of room has its own nuances. The veranda does not provide for heating, unlike an additional room. If it will be a kitchen or a bathroom, lay utilities and pipes before construction begins, take care of future insulation and waterproofing.

Choose in advance the most optimal size extensions

Foundation for an extension

by the most important point in the construction of an extension, arrangement is considered. If the owner took part in the construction of the house, he knows all the nuances of the size and design of the old foundation. When buying a ready-made house, such information may not be available. In this case, you need to dig a hole yourself near the wall of the house and measure the foundation, its depth and determine the nature of the soil.

Decide whether the foundations of the buildings will be connected by a rigid connection or the base of the new extension will be separate

Strip foundation

The strip foundation is poured in the form of a rectangle in two ways: closed, and also in the shape of the letter "P", in an open way.

There are several options for connecting the foundations of the house and extensions:

With a closed method of pouring concrete:

install a 50 mm thick polystyrene foam sheet between the foundation strips. It will be part of the formwork when pouring concrete. After filling, the remaining gap must be covered with sealant;
connect the ends of the foundations with a reinforced frame. At the end of the base of the house, drill holes in two checkerboard rows. Place the reinforcing bars there, which you will later connect to the extension frame of the foundation;

With open fill method:

pour the foundation of the extension in the shape of the letter "P", and install a heater on the gap of the house;
to connect buildings, drill holes for reinforcement only at the junction of two bases.

For a strip foundation, they dig a trench, fill it with a pillow of sand and gravel. After that, formwork is erected and reinforcement is started.

Column Foundation

If your extension is small in size and weight, a columnar foundation is a good alternative to a strip one. Such a base is suitable for the construction of a frame extension with a high level of groundwater.

Stages of erection of the columnar foundation of the extension:

Dig holes deeper than the freezing level of the soil, the distance between them should not exceed 1.5 meters.
Place a bed of sand and gravel at the bottom of the holes. Compact the material well and lay the roofing material.
Prepare a strong board or plywood formwork for each hole.
Reinforce the formwork with 4 bars of rebar.
Pour concrete mix into the formwork, wait for complete hardening. Remove the formwork and make a grillage.

The columnar foundation is suitable for light extensions and is one of the simplest and most budgetary types of foundations.

Extension floor base device

For a columnar foundation, a wooden floor base is suitable. When erecting a strip base, there is a choice between wooden and concrete floors. If the extension room will be used as an additional room, you need to take care of high-quality thermal insulation and a flat surface.

Comparing the properties of durability and strength, the concrete floor occupies a leading position, but a wooden house has good heat and sound insulation. Wooden beams are also faster and easier to install.

Concrete floor

Before pouring the floor, consider the characteristics of the soil of the extension. The concrete floor is not equipped on moving ground. If the room is never heated, the concrete structure may deform over time.

The construction of a concrete floor includes the following steps:

After the strip foundation has completely dried, inside the structure, dig out the top layer of soil by 25-35 cm and tamp the surface of the earth.
Pour river sand 10 cm thick. Tamp and lay two layers of roofing material in a checkerboard pattern.
Pour expanded clay to a thickness of 15 cm. Install special beacons or bricks around the perimeter of the expanded clay cushion. Install from above building level and level the subfloor. If an extension is built for summer cottage, it is not necessary to lay the reinforcing grating.
Pour a high-quality concrete mortar, level it with the rule and wait for it to solidify completely.

The building level will help to make the surface of the concrete floor as smooth as possible.

Floor on wooden beams

For a columnar foundation structure or frame extension, it is necessary to install load-bearing logs. They perform the function of the skeleton of the building, evenly distributing the load throughout the extension.

Beams are laid using the following technology:

Install and secure a double layer of waterproofing on the foundation pillars.
Before installation wooden beams treat with a special antiseptic.
Lay the floor beams on the foundation pillars and secure with corners. Fasten the beams together in the same way.

Bearing logs must be large and made of high-quality wood, the strength of the entire structure depends on them

Construction of extension walls

The walls for the extension are selected according to the same material as the house itself. The most common materials for building walls are brick and wood.

To connect the walls of two buildings, it is better not to use a rigid connection. The difference in age between old and new wall can lead to uneven settlement and cracking. Leave a distance of 2-3 cm between the walls of the building, which, after erecting the walls, fill with polyurethane foam.

Frame walls

The necessary materials for the construction of frame walls are high-quality wood and fixing angles. We install the frame to the base of the extension on the supporting elements installed earlier.

First mount the corner posts, fixing them with reinforced steel corners. Fasten the intermediate bars either by the full cut method, or in the same way as the corner beams.
Secure the intermediate bars with temporary cuts, which must be removed after the extension walls are fully installed.
Fasten the upper tier of the frame in the same way with the lower part. For better strength, each beam can be fixed with braces on both sides.
After installing the frame, carry out the sheathing external walls extensions with wooden planks or sheets of plywood.

Fasten wooden elements using corners faster and more reliably than by completely or partially cutting out the thickness of the beam

brick walls

The technology of erecting brick walls includes the following steps:

Before starting construction, level the foundation with a cement-sand screed. Lay a layer of roofing material on top for waterproofing. Lay the first row of bricks on the roofing material without mortar.
Attach small-diameter reinforcing bars to the brick rows of the main house. Drill holes every two rows of bricks. During brickwork extensions, protruding reinforcement from the walls of the main house will be in the seams between the new laid brick.
Pull the rope parallel to the wall, which will help to build the brick rows as evenly as possible. Between every third row of bricks, a reinforcing mesh can be laid, which will reduce shrinkage and increase the strength of the walls.

After erecting the walls, tie them on top with a concrete belt. Pour the concrete solution into the erected reinforced formwork.

The laying of the first row starts from the corner, and the thickness of the walls depends on the functions of the future extension.

Covering the extension and roofing

The roof of the extension should also be in harmony with the main building. Select high-quality roofing material and carry out construction calculations of dimensions and angles of inclination. For slate and metal tiles, the optimal angle of inclination is from 30-40º, for metal profiles - from 20º, for corrugated board - from 12º.

The technology of the roofing process includes the following steps:

Install ceilings on the walls in the form wooden beams. Fix them with corners at a distance of 50-70 cm from each other. If the walls are brick, embed the bars in concrete. Then sheathe them with boards and insulate.
Lay the Mauerlat along the perimeter of the side walls. It will serve as a support for the rafters, which are erected at a distance of no more than 70 cm from each other. Between the rafters and the floor beams, you should get the same step. To protect the walls from water, the rafters should extend beyond the boundaries of the walls by 30 cm.
Lay a special waterproofing film on the rafters and install the crate in the form of horizontal boards.
Lay the selected roofing material on the crate.

The easiest and most affordable option for self-roofing considered to be a pitched roof

Insulation of the extension from the inside

If the extension room will serve as a living room, it is important to take care of high-quality thermal insulation of the floor, ceiling and walls. For better ventilation concrete walls rooms are insulated from the outside. A suitable material is foam or mineral wool.

Floor insulation on beams

For the arrangement of insulation and flooring, a subfloor is installed. Cross boards are laid on the supporting logs of the extension.

Further technology includes the following steps:

Lay a waterproofing film on top of which install additional logs on the subfloor.
To insulate the floor between additional lags, lay several layers of foam or mineral wool.
Lay another layer of vapor barrier on top, on which sheets of oriented strand board will be laid.
Install a floor covering.

The waterproofing film will protect the floor from moisture, and the OSB sheets serve as a durable coating.

Concrete floor

We carry out warming of a concrete floor similarly to a floor from a tree. On the concrete screed a layer of waterproofing film is laid. You can install thick logs and cover half of their thickness with expanded clay. This will increase the level of thermal insulation. Further, according to the same scheme, mineral wool, the second layer of film and OSB boards are laid.

Frame walls

To insulate the frame walls, a crate is created from wood bars along the perimeter of the walls and ceiling. The extension is insulated with mineral wool rolls. Thickness wooden block and a roll of cotton should be the same. The distance between the bars corresponds to the width of the insulation roll.

After carrying out thermal insulation, we carry out waterproofing of surfaces. The waterproofing film is overlapped and nailed to the battens. Further, the room is decorated with plastic, plywood sheets or wooden clapboard.

brick walls

The brick walls of the extension can be insulated outside and inside. Internal insulation carried out in the same way as the insulation of the walls of the frame extension. For outdoor insulation brick wall foam is often used. The insulation is glued to the outer walls of the building using a special adhesive in a checkerboard pattern.

The plates are additionally reinforced with dowels, which are installed in the walls. A reinforcing mesh is applied on top and final plastering is performed.

Time passes, and it turns out that a private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. We will tell you how to do it efficiently and at no extra cost in the article.

Save money without sacrificing quality – room requirements and materials

Poorly thought out extension design over time will force something to be redone or completed, attached to country house. In order not to get into such a situation, we think through all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start with the choice of location and size.

Each type of additional room has its own specific features in connection with the use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in the country, then this is tantamount to building a small house. It is required to reliably insulate, to prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.

Another common type of outbuildings are kitchens and bathrooms. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about engineering communications and sum them up even before the start of construction. Sewer pipes, water pipes are much more convenient to lay before pouring the foundation than to make their way under it later. Waterproofing needs more attention floor covering. We are thinking about warming, but if the kitchen is planned for summer, then this can be saved.

Expand the house and an extension of the veranda. The structure is light, serves for summer holidays, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many versions: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to a complex one with walls, a door, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but foundation waterproofing is necessary.

An extension to the house should be in harmony with the main building. If the house has an exterior finish, then it will not be difficult to repeat it on the attached premises. With all materials, wood is well combined, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option there will be a frame structure:

built quickly, in just a few months;
does not require a capital foundation, because it is light;
without special knowledge and skills, it is available for construction with your own hands;
will cost less.

The base for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching the structure to the house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but leave an expansion joint. In this regard, frame structures, which do not give vertical shrinkage, compare favorably.

If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is made single-pitched. We choose the slope in such a way that the snow does not linger and the rain flows down. If this is an extension to the side wall, then the roof repeats the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.

Pillar base - fast, cheap, reliable

For the columnar foundation of an extension to the house, concrete, brick, or a combination of both is used. It is done mainly for a living room or a veranda. If applied to a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation of the entry of utilities into the house will be required. Since protection concerns an average of half a meter of pipes, you can go for such expenses, it will still come out cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards, for concrete you will need a lot of material for backfilling, a fence around the perimeter.

We start with the marking of the site, the installation sites of the pillars are one and a half meters from one another. A separate pit 50 × 50 cm is dug under each pillar, with a depth greater than the freezing of the soil. At the top, we expand the pits a little: about 10 cm on each side. We fill the bottom with a layer of sand of 10 cm, carefully ram, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also rammed.

We lay out the film for waterproofing, bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build brick pillars, we pour a little concrete mortar for the base into each pit and wait for it to set. When concrete pillars are planned, we tie the reinforcement at the top along the entire height, lower it into the pits. We provide an equal distance between the walls. We put pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.

We make formwork for the plinth, inside which we launch the film. Concrete is poured in layers, each layer is pierced several times with a bar so that air bubbles come out. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it seizes, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the column and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time, pour heavily with water, cover with burlap or film.

When the foundation has gained the desired strength, the formwork is removed. We heat up the bituminous mastic, apply it to the poles and immediately glue the pieces of roofing material for waterproofing. Between the pillars there was a space that it is desirable to fill up in order to insulate the floor. We use ordinary earth mixed with rubble or pieces of brick. We fall asleep in layers of 10 cm, we ram. The technology for erecting a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar one, it is solid.

Getting started - lower trim and extension floor

So, we settled on the frame version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for a tree to serve for a long time, it is required to adhere to two rules: make reliable waterproofing and carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing, the most reliable means - bituminous mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.

Then we make the bottom strapping. Usually a beam of 150 × 150 mm is used, but boards of 150 × 50 mm can be used. We lay them horizontally around the entire perimeter, leveling with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. The second row is laid on top, overlapping the joints in the first.

In the boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes for the studs and connect them. If it is tape, we drill and connect on the ground, and then lay it. To get the effect of a single beam, we knock it down with nails in a checkerboard pattern after 20 cm. It turns out a strapping of the desired thickness, which also has additional advantages:

is much cheaper than bars;
it is very easy to connect with each other, with bars it is more difficult.

We attach the lower trim to the beds from the same boards 150 × 50 mm, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them together and with the beds with 90 mm nails. Next, we expose the logs from a similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the already we install them. They are attached to the binding board with nails, 2 on each side.

Now let's move on to floor insulation. The cheapest, albeit not very environmentally friendly option is tiled polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg / m 3. Its advantage is that it is the only one of the heaters that is not afraid of moisture. We nail 50 × 50 mm bars to the lower edges of the log, which will hold the polystyrene foam. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay it so that the seams of the lower and upper rows overlap.

The base is ready. We lay the subfloor on top. So that it does not warp over time, we lay it, alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look at the cut: we put one board with an arc up, the other - down. We make the finishing floor from plywood, the joints are apart. A rough base is not necessary in the presence of edged tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 30 mm or plywood 15 mm. We lay directly on the lags.

Wall mounting - two assembly technologies

There are two technologies for assembling frame structures. The first is called frame-panel, when the entire assembly is done on the ground, then prefabricated structures put in place and fastened together. Sometimes the frame is sheathed immediately, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation right on the spot. Which is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. The shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone; helpers will be required.

We begin the construction of the frame with corner posts. For them and intermediate racks, we use a beam of 150 × 150 mm or even 100 × 100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We arrange the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. So we will save on waste-free use of the material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.

Fastening can be simply and reliably carried out with metal corners installed on both sides of the racks and fixed with stainless screws. Before finally fixing the rack, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for corners. One incorrectly set beam will cause the entire extension to bend.

Temporary cuts, which are installed from the inside and serve until the outer skin is attached, help maintain the correct shape of the frame. If the sheathing is made of a hard and durable material such as plywood, OSB, GVK, it is able to independently strengthen the base, which will stand securely after removing the temporary cuttings. When soft material is planned for sheathing: siding, lining, then permanent braces cannot be dispensed with. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.

In the places where windows and doors are installed, we fasten the crossbars. We make the racks next to them double: they experience increased loads and should be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper trim. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: beds made of two boards fastened together and the actual harness made of the same boards installed on the edge. To it in the same way as the floor logs were attached, we nail the floor beams from the boards 150 × 50 on the edge with nails.

We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correct installation of racks and crossbars: the racks are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.

Shed roof - design and implementation technology

The roof of the house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one. If the extension is built on the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one, it remains only to repeat its design in order to lengthen it. When an attached building is located along the length, its roof is made single-pitched. The slope is provided by the difference in the height of the front and rear pillars. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main canopy.

The roof is supported by rafters, which are laid on the beams. They are made of thick boards, to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them on the ground according to the template so that they are all the same. Then, after installation in place, it will not be necessary to align horizontally. We process the grooves with mastic, install and fasten to the walls with brackets, metal corners on studs. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.

We lay the crate on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material we make it solid or in increments of 0.3–0.6 m. The need for a solid wooden flooring arises when using soft material, sparse we do for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten profiled sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws with sealing washers, ondulin - with nails with a wide hat. We provide wave overlap. Don't forget about the final design: the wind strips not only protect the roof, but also give it a finished look.

Warming is a mandatory operation for an extension

For the insulation of buildings, mainly mineral wool and polystyrene are used. Mineral wool resist fire, low thermal conductivity. They have a small weight, a form of release convenient for consumers: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation is foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, it is not afraid of fungus, moisture, decay. But there are two big drawbacks: it is very fond of rodents, it releases toxic gases in case of fire.

Warming from the inside is carried out in the following sequence:

1. We mount the waterproofing, having previously cut the strips of the required dimensions. We fasten with staples using a construction stapler in such a way as to ensure an overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
2. We lay the insulation between the racks. We provide a snug fit to wooden structures, close the seams between the individual elements of the insulating material, overlapping the next layer.
3. We fix the vapor barrier, even if we use foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the tree. Fastening is carried out similarly to waterproofing.
4. We sheathe the walls from the inside. We use drywall on a perfectly even frame or OSB, if there are irregularities. It is more rigid and smoothes out flaws.

Remained interior and exterior decoration, which provides room for the imagination of the owner. The frame extension is built quickly, cheaply, has been serving for decades, and it can be built with little or no outside help.

Building a frame extension to a private house is a quick and economical way to increase the area of \u200b\u200byour home. Nowadays, structures of this type are beginning to be in great demand, since their construction does not require special skills, and building materials can be purchased at any store. building materials. If you strictly adhere to the construction technology and correctly calculate each component of the extension, then it will serve for many years without requiring major repairs.

Peculiarities

The extension to the house has its own characteristics, which depend on its purpose, since there are different requirements for the kitchen, veranda, bathroom and additional living room. In particular, the addition of another dwelling can be compared in complexity with the construction of a small house.

There are special requirements for the foundation, thermal protection of walls, floor and ceiling. With construction summer veranda much easier, because it is a light unheated structure, for the construction of which there is no need for a powerful foundation. AT in general terms, the construction of the terrace is limited to the construction of walls, roof and floor. Although some homeowners prefer a glass veranda. The main thing is that the extension does not stand out from the general style of the house.

Problems arise with the kitchen and bathroom, especially when the water supply system has already been connected to the house and additional communications will need to be carried out in the newly made premises. Problems may also arise heating system. You should think about communications before building the foundation, so you can save money and time in the future. At worst, you should equip or at least outline the exit points for water and heating pipes. Regardless of what will be added to the house, this process includes such standard steps as:

design;
building a foundation;
construction of the wall frame and its cladding;
roof device.

It turns out that the addition of an additional room to the house with your own hands does not differ from the construction of any other building. And the strength of the entire structure will be determined by the quality of the foundation.

Projects

Work on the arrangement of additional premises in the form of an extension includes the design procedure, the choice of materials, the preparation of estimates, the distribution of communications, the device for communication with the house, and the arrangement of space.

The creation of a project and drawing, as well as the calculation of an extension to any house (old or newly built, log, country, panel, brick, wooden and others) begins after the type of structure and dimensions are determined.

In turn, when choosing an additional room, you can opt for such as: veranda, terrace, summer kitchen, living space, garage, porch, bay window, sheds. At the same time, it is important to provide for the condition of the adjacent walls and, if necessary, replace the rotten sections. It is necessary to adhere to a single style.

The dimensions of the extension from the frame should not exceed 2/3 of the area of \u200b\u200bthe house. For example, the area of the veranda, as a rule, is approximately 20% of the area of \u200b\u200bthe house. In this case, the main thing is not to disturb the exterior of the facade. To carry out changes in the structure of a residential building, permission from the Committee for Architecture and Urban Planning is required. All necessary drawings are prepared.

Finished standard projects it is problematic to use, since it needs to be tied to the existing structure of the house and the condition of the soil. They are taken as a basis, making changes of varying degrees of complexity depending on the needs of the customer, as a result, an extraordinary solution can be obtained.

DIY construction

The construction of a frame extension can be implemented by yourself, the main thing is to follow the advice of professionals in this matter. After the detailed project of the future construction is ready, you can start construction. This process includes several important steps, which will help step-by-step instructions.

Site preparation and foundation pouring

Before building the frame, you need a foundation. It can be lightweight, columnar or tape, but in most cases, they choose strip foundation monolithic type, which is the most reliable and durable.

To create a foundation, you should perform such actions as:

area needs to be marked. In the corners of the future building, small pegs should be driven in, tying a cord (fishing line) to them. This will allow you to clearly see the outline of the future base;
it is necessary to dig a trench (ditch). Its depth depends on the dimensions of the base of the main house. The width of the trench should be 150–170 mm larger than the future extension walls;
it is necessary to fill the bottom with fine gravel or sand with a layer of up to 15 cm, carefully compact it;
directly on a pillow of crushed stone or sand, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing;
on top of the waterproofing layer, it is necessary to arrange a reinforcing mesh to increase the strength of concrete;
you need to fill the reinforcing layer by 1/3 with a concrete solution, wait until the mortar sets, and then pour more mortar by 1/2 of the ditch depth;
formwork should be installed. As a material for creating forms for laying concrete, you can use wood, metal, plastic, or combinations thereof;
it is necessary to pour the upper part of the foundation and allow the concrete to dry. Depending on the weather, this will take about 14 days;
after the solution has completely dried, it is worth removing the formwork and performing external waterproofing with rubber or roofing material.

Important: the foundation of the main structure and the annex must be common, therefore, even before the stage of pouring the concrete solution, it is necessary to decide on the method of docking. If construction is carried out on unstable soils, for example, loose or clay, it is required to give some time for the foundation to shrink.

Articulation of the extension from the frame with the main structure

Regardless of the quality of the foundation, due to the difference in the magnitude of the load with which the house and the extension act on the soil, there is still a possibility that over time they will shift relative to each other. Guided by this, experts strongly do not recommend a hard way to attach an extension to the main house.

It is more rational to use an abutment similar in principle to a tongue-and-groove interface. To install it on the wall of a capital building, you need to fix two beams, and between them put a vertical beam, which is a component of the frame wall of the extension. Such a way of adjoining will create conditions for leveling mutual shifts. Of course, instead of wood, a metal frame can be used, in which case all embedded elements must also be metal. Otherwise, you need to make a bolted swivel.

wall construction

After the final leveling of the surface of the ground part, you can proceed to the construction of the walls of the frame extension. Their basis is timber bars treated with protective components.

The process of building walls is represented by the following algorithm of actions:

you need to do the bottom trim. There are several ways to connect a beam, but more often they use a connection at an angle or use the half-board method. The voids between the beam and the plinth are sealed with polystyrene foam;
to give the strap extra strength corner connections must be secured with anchors or dowels. To the base, the beam is fixed in pre-made holes;
floor boards are fixed to bottom harness with a step of 60–70 cm, it is better to fix them with liquid nails or self-tapping screws;
frame racks for walls must be mounted on metal corners and self-tapping screws. They must be placed at a distance slightly less than the width of the thermal insulation;
it is desirable to construct the upper trim only after the installation of all wall racks, so that the structure by this time has sufficient rigidity. The top trim should be mounted similarly to the bottom;
to strengthen the frame, you can put diagonal bars.

Having finished with the construction of the walls, it is necessary to install the floor lathing on the prepared logs of the lower base. For this, it is better to use ordinary boards with a height of 40 mm. The finishing floor (finishing coating) is best arranged only after wall cladding and roofing.

Important: when constructing a frame base, it is necessary to use a building level, since even a slight roll can provoke deformation of the entire structure.

Roof

Even at the stage of mounting the walls, it is necessary to lay the ceilings every 60–70 mm and fix them to the upper trim using metal corners. At the same time, you can sew up the ceiling with sheets of thick plywood or boards, which will give the frame even more rigidity. After that, a layer of insulation must be laid on the draft structure of the canvas.

If you plan to use flexible material for the roof, then another layer of sheathing must be mounted on the rafters for vapor barrier.

Warming and finishing

After installing all the elements of the frame structure, you can proceed to the insulation of the extension. As a heater, as a rule, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or ecowool are used. Insulation plates are placed in several rows between the frame supports. Particular attention must be paid to the junction points of the plates to avoid gaps. To do this, the insulation is shifted in different layers relative to each other.

In a similar way, thermal insulation is laid between the ceilings and the floor. For extensions, it is desirable to perform insulation from the outside. It does not reduce the usable area of the room and retains heat well. As soon as the thermal insulation is laid over the entire surface of the annex, you can take up the device of vapor and moisture insulation. The material should be placed strictly with the villi towards the cladding, and with the smooth side towards the surface of the thermal insulation. To protect against winds, the extension is sheathed on the outside with a film or roofing felt.

The walls of the extension must be insulated not only from the outside, but also inside. For this, a superdiffusion membrane (film), foil material and insulation are used. The superdiffusion membrane is a modern insulating "breathing" material. To save money, plastic film is used instead, however, this material accumulates moisture, as a result of which mold forms on the walls of the house.

— IF SPACE IS LOW —

The construction of the house has long been completed, and the need to increase the living space has already arisen. Many owners face this problem. country houses. An extension to a wooden house will help solve this problem without much difficulty.

Our team of builders is engaged not only in the construction of houses, but also warm extensions to the house, as well as verandas or terraces.

Construction of an extension to the house

Building an extension to a house is no less troublesome than building the house itself, especially if it is an extension to an old country house or a village log house. Sometimes this entails quite large changes in the design and layout of the house itself. It can be an extension of a veranda, terrace or a warm living space for any purpose: a bedroom or living room, kitchen, bathroom or bathroom. It can be Technical buildings- boiler room or garage.

Photos of extensions to the house that our team built

Terrace extension.

The extension of the terrace to the house does not create big problems and costs. The terrace is an open area - a wooden flooring on a specially prepared base, with or without a railing. Stand-alone or attached to the main building and serves for outdoor recreation. It can be under a roof, the main functions of which are protection from rain and direct sunlight.

Veranda extension.

The extension of the veranda to the house is a little more complicated and expensive, since it implies its full or partial glazing, but it also remains cold. The device of the veranda provides additional benefits - protection from wind and rain from all sides. Can serve as a summer kitchen, living room, playroom. Usually not heated.

Construction of a warm extension to the house.

The construction of an extension to the house with insulation, for a full-fledged living, is a more difficult and costly undertaking. Most often, we have to deal with the construction of an extension to wooden houses. In the process of attaching to a house from a bar or log, when docking to a house, some difficulties sometimes arise that must be taken into account. For the extension itself, the most optimal solution is the choice in favor of the frame wooden structure walls! Possibility of year-round use, as part of the main house, heated.

The correct extension to a wooden house is a frame extension.

A frame wooden extension, compared to an extension made of timber or logs, does not allow vertical settlement of the walls and therefore it can be immediately rigidly attached to the main structure. Frame walls floor and ceiling are insulated mineral wool. This design will be the warmest, lightest and most reliable compared to other options. And also the cheapest and most practical. Possibility to make an extension immediately turnkey. Versatility - the ability to attach to any home: wood, brick or blocks. Appointment - any: bedrooms, kitchen, living room, bathroom, boiler room, garage.

The foundation for the extension is another "thin" place. For such an extension to the house, the foundation is required to be more reliable and a pile screw foundation is best suited for this. In some cases, this may be a shallow tape monolithic foundation.

The cost of building an extension without material, only work!

Estimated - the approximate cost of a frame extension (600x300x250) with a turnkey finish.

Terrace open from 100 thousand rubles.
Glazed cold veranda from 150 thousand rubles.
Residential extension with insulation (100-150-200 mm.) from 200 thousand rubles.

Building a frame extension to the house is possible at any time of the year!

Our construction team does more than just construction. wooden outbuildings to the houses, but can carry out a complete renovation and reconstruction of the entire house.