The reliability and aesthetics of complex wood structures largely depend on right choice way to connect it constituent parts. This is especially true for frame products, load-bearing structures, where safety parameters come to the fore.

Quality connection wooden parts- a guarantee of durability, the basis of an attractive type of product, an indicator of the skill and professionalism of a carpenter and joiner.

Connection type selection

In general, there are a huge number of types of joints of wooden blanks, so you can only talk about some of them, the most common.

One of the most simple ways to build up a wooden part (beam, log, board), to increase its width is the end connection. There are several options for its implementation. Often a simple and functional half-thickness (half-tree) method is used. Depending on the expected load on the part, the cut can be even or oblique. In some cases, the joint is strengthened with curly cutouts - locks. This type of connection prevents stretching, twisting, bending. So the timber is spliced ​​together for the purpose of lengthening.

Creating three-dimensional frames or wooden frames Requires secure connections different angles. In this case, it is rational to use a thorn-groove or thorn-eye connection. The nodes at the junction of the parts withstand the load of displacement, bending and compression. If the design requires high tensile strength, cutouts are made in a trapezoidal shape.

Additional connections of frame products, giving rigidity to the structure, are implemented using T-shaped or cruciform connections. The main load at the joints is compression, displacement and rupture. In special cases, the structure is additionally reinforced with metal corners, screws or nails.

To connect the boards to each other in box structures at a right angle, it is convenient to use a special box groove. As the name implies, this method is often used to create three-dimensional structures, including furniture boxes. A well-made box joint looks monolithic, has an attractive appearance and can withstand impressive loads. While creating wooden furniture often use a connection on dowels, dowels and dominoes (when the groove has an oblong shape, as opposed to a round dowel).

Spike connection (thorn groove)

The simplest and one of the most reliable is the thorn-groove connection. It is widely used in carpentry. In a similar way, wooden parts of window frames are assembled into a single whole, a variety of parts of cabinet furniture, plywood sheets are made. The essence of this method is that a spike is made at the end of one part to be joined, which is inserted into the groove of another part and fixed in it.

For work it is convenient to use a special lamellar milling cutter, in the absence of such, you can get by with a simple hand tool. You will need:

• hand saw with a fine tooth;
• electric or hand drill;
• several chisels of different widths;
• sandpaper;
• measuring tool, square and pencil.

First mark the blanks. The parameters of the tongue and groove depend on the parameters of the wooden parts and the configuration of the product, however, it is worth considering a few general recommendations.

Important! The thickness of the spike should be about a third of the thickness of the part, the width should be 70-80% of the width, the length should be equal to the thickness of the workpiece to be joined.

The groove parameters must also meet these criteria. In any case, it is important to ensure that the dimensions of the tongue and groove match. Parts should be connected easily, without pressure, but not fall out under their own weight. There should be no backlash, cracks and distortion.

The groove is cut first, this sequence is due to the fact that the spike is much easier to fit under the groove than vice versa. With the help of a saw, cuts are made, excess wood is removed with a drill, the bottom of the groove and the walls are leveled with chisels.

In most cases, only wood glue is enough to fix the parts; screws or nails will help to ensure maximum strength.

Half tree connection

Often used in carpentry various options half-wood joints (simple or straight lock). This build type wooden structures characterized by ease of manufacture and high reliability. The following varieties are distinguished:

• cross connection;
• half a tree - dovetail;
• gusset;
• on the mustache;
• half-tree splicing.

The first two methods are used to connect parts that intersect at right angles. Especially popular is the dovetail, in which the cutout shape is a trapezoid and the sides do not go at a right angle. The groove of the lock slightly expands from the end, providing a more secure fit. It should be noted that a spiked joint can also be called a dovetail if the spikes are cut in the form of trapezoids.

The second and third ways form a finished corner. Splicing is used if necessary to increase the length of the workpiece.

How to make a cross connection

One of the simplest is the cross connection. It is easy to manufacture, even a novice carpenter can master its wisdom. The work is done in the following order:

• marking is done. The parts to be joined overlap each other. Draw a line with a ruler. Thickness markings are applied with a thickness gauge;
• the first part is clamped in a vise. With a hand saw, carefully, along the lines, a cut is made to the mark left by the thickness gauge. The workpiece is rotated. A second cut is made;
• the workpiece is removed from the vise. With the help of a sharp chisel and a wooden mallet, part of the wood is removed between the cuts;
• processing the second part;
• the planes are leveled with sandpaper or an abrasive bar.

Now you can join the wooden blanks. The connection must be tight, without backlash and gaps. If the product is one-piece, the joints are coated with carpentry glue, the design is additionally reinforced with screws.

Formation of corners on the mustache

One of better ways creating corners of various volumetric products is a joint on a mustache. It allows you to create a monolithic structure, hide the fibers of the end, thereby providing an attractive look. This method is suitable for a wide variety of products, but is most often used for the manufacture of frames and cabinet furniture parts.

To create a connection in each of the wooden parts, cuts are made at an angle equal to half the angle at which the workpieces meet. Most often, this angle is straight, therefore, the cuts are made at 45 degrees, however, the angle can vary widely. Work is performed according to the following algorithm.

First mark out the details. It is important not to forget that the markup is carried out along the long side, otherwise you can not guess with the dimensions.

On the edges to be connected, draw a line at the required angle. With a combined square, the markup is transferred to each side of the workpiece. Then a cut is made, for which it is better to use an electric miter saw, but you can also work with a hand tool. When working with a hacksaw, it is important to control the angle of the cut; it would be useful to use a bar as a guide.

Finished parts are applied to each other, checking the accuracy of fit. Irregularities will have to be smoothed out with a hand planer, bring the angle with a sandpaper. Carpentry glue is applied to both surfaces, and the product is fixed with the help of clamps. Additional strength can be achieved with the help of carnations. When working with a hammer, it is important to control the force of impact so that the workpieces do not move.

Particularly important connections are reinforced with bars, which are glued into inner corner. The joint, which will not be visible, can be further strengthened with a metal square.

As a result of high-quality work, a perfect seam will turn out. If a small gap has formed, then it can be hidden by straightening the adjacent wood fibers using a smooth cylindrical surface. For this, the rod of a conventional screwdriver is suitable.

Spike in the eye

Corner and tee (example: T-shaped connection of a window frame) intersections are conveniently performed using the tongue-and-groove method. In this case, the eye is made at the end of the vertical part, cuts for the tenon - in its horizontal component.

Work begins with the marking of the eye. The workpiece thickness is divided by three. With a thin hacksaw, cuts are made to a depth equal to the width of the other workpiece. With the help of chisels, excess wood is removed, the walls of the eye are leveled with sandpaper.

Mark the second blank. The width of the stud should be equal to the width of the first workpiece, the thickness should be equal to the thickness of the stud. The cuts are made with a hand saw, the depth and angle of inclination are carefully controlled. Excess is removed with a chisel.

The final finishing in thickness is performed with sandpaper. Parts should be connected with light force and not fall apart under their own weight.

Thorn in the jack

A more complex connection is the spike-to-socket method. It requires more skill, but is much more reliable and durable. The scope of use is the same as in the previous case, namely, T-shaped joints. The difference of this method lies in the fact that the spike is made at the end of the vertical part, a nest is sawn out in the body of the horizontal.

This is one of the most common furniture connections. There is a connection with a through spike and with a deaf one. The difference is that in the first case, a through nest is cut out, in the second, a slot is made to a certain depth.

Features of the Japanese carpentry connection

Unprecedented heights of carpentry art were reached by Japanese masters. Using traditional techniques, combining Various types connections, they create accurate and reliable joints without the use of nails and other fasteners. Docking of various wooden parts is carried out solely due to the force of friction.

The reliability of these connections is based on an accurate cut. Perfectly matched lock lines on both mating parts allow you to create a connection with impeccable accuracy. Complex lock configurations require a lot of experience, knowledge and ability to use the tool, but if you wish, all this can be learned.

Rallying boards

High-quality wood is expensive, it is not always possible to buy a good board with the necessary parameters, and it is not always necessary. To make, for example, a table top, it is not at all necessary to look for a table-wide board, having carpentry skills, you can create an ideal wooden canvas with the necessary parameters.

There are many payment options. A board with a spike and a groove, the so-called lining, is widespread. It allows you to create smooth wooden surfaces of a large area. A simplified version of it is often used - a board with a quarter joint.

Rallying for a smooth fugue (butt)

The easiest way that does not require additional elements. The side faces of the boards are jointed, it is better to do this in pairs, clamping both adjacent boards in a vise and simultaneously processing them. Such processing will create an accurate surface on which the irregularities of one board will be compensated for by the irregularities of the other. Both boards are smeared with glue and fixed until it is completely solidified.

Rallying load-bearing elements

There are several ways to extend (build up) a board that is part of the supporting structure. The simplest and most reliable is a half-tree connection, followed by an overlay on the junction of reinforcing strips. Non-critical areas can be reinforced with plywood.

The same method is used for articulating boards at different angles. Precisely made cuts of the articulated parts make it possible to do without reinforcing pads, it is enough to fix the boards at the junction with screws.

Cutting without residue means that the laid logs will form an even corner, their ends will not protrude beyond the building, its separate variety is a warm corner. Cutting with the remainder, in turn, means that an interweaving of protruding ends will form at the corners of the building. The second method is more expensive in terms of the amount of material, but the building retains heat better and is more stable.

Exist various ways connecting parts made of wood, the ability to determine the optimal one for a particular type of work will significantly diversify the range of products that a master can make. The right method will provide an attractive appearance product and guarantees the reliability of the three-dimensional design.

If you want to make solid wood furniture, you will have to take certain precautions against warping the wood. The list of such measures includes the selection of the appropriate compound.

There are many known ways to connect wood parts so that they do not deform in the future. One of the most effective is the dovetail. The parts are connected to each other in such a way that it is almost impossible to separate them even without glue. Each thorn is clamped as if by pincers. The strength of the connection is also enhanced by the fact that the area of ​​the docking areas covered with glue is much larger here than with simple connection without spikes.

In addition, the dovetail connection can rightfully be called decorative, since it can decorate any piece of furniture, of course, provided that all the teeth are carefully and accurately made. And this will require painstaking work with a saw and a chisel. All grooves and tenons must fit exactly together, and all fugues must be equally narrow. From the first time, such accuracy is hardly achievable: first try to gain experience by processing simple boards.

Many interesting and beautiful examples dovetail joints can be seen when looking at old furniture.

The dovetail joint is considered the most beautiful, reliable and durable corner joint. It is not so easy to execute it.

It's done like this

• Cut out pieces of the desired length from the boards.
• On one of the boards, mark the spikes and grooves.
• Transfer the markings from the front face of the board to the end and then to the back face.
• Saw grooves and cut them out with a chisel.
• Using the processed board, mark the location of the spikes and grooves on the other board.
• After processing the second board, try to connect both parts without glue and make corrections if necessary.
• Apply glue to the joints, carefully connect the parts and hold under pressure until the glue seizes.

WHAT YOU NEED

materials:

Wood blanks Clay.

Instruments:

• Ruler.
• Pencil.
• Awl or knife.
• Square.
• Tenon saw.
• Chisels of suitable width.
• Workbench.
• Clamps.
• A hammer.
• Mallet.

The shape of the grooves and spikes in the dovetail connection

The beauty of this box is in the harmony of the material and the corresponding design using the dovetail connection.

Homemade stud bevel marking tool: Cut out a template from a thin metal sheet and shape it accordingly.

Carry out marking on the part having the required length

Before marking the spikes and grooves, measure the part again, it must have the required width. If the width of the part is larger than it should be, then the markup will be inaccurate and, therefore, unusable.

Choose the right chisel

Before you start grooving, check if the chisel you have is the right size for them. Take care of the right tool in advance if you plan to make very thin spikes. Chisels come in various widths - from 4 to 40 mm.

Bar protects against damage

When connecting parts, never hit the mallet directly on the wood. Use a small piece of wood to protect parts from damage.

Learn more about the dovetail connection

When making a dovetail connection, both parts are interlocked by means of a special form of teeth. The upright board shown in the figure has spikes that fit into the grooves of the horizontal board. Connecting and disconnecting boards is possible only with the vertical position of the spikes. Otherwise, this cannot be done.

The boards connected in this way react differently to the load. And therefore, it does not matter in which part to make grooves, and in which - spikes.

In drawers, spikes are made on the front board, grooves - in the side walls. Since the greatest load on the box occurs when it is pulled out, the connection will be most durable precisely with this arrangement of the spikes.

In a hinged shelf, the maximum load falls on parts located horizontally.

They should be with spikes that will hold curly grooves in vertically arranged parts.

The spikes should always be narrower than the grooves, especially when using dense and durable wood. The peculiarity of the dovetail connection is also that the spikes and grooves in finished product look different than when unfolded - as shown in the figure below.

Uniform distribution

Products that have corner connections"dovetail", are not covered with colored varnish. Therefore, the location of the spikes and grooves must be uniform across the entire width of the parts. Extreme spikes may be slightly wider or narrower. All other spikes and grooves should be the same.

Drawing dovetail spikes

Experienced carpenters can distribute the teeth almost by hand. For those who are just starting to master this method of connecting parts, we recommend using a ruler.

For boards up to 15 cm wide, mark out, for example, four spikes and three grooves or five spikes and four grooves. For boards up to 20 cm wide - five spikes and four grooves or six spikes and five grooves. An approximate distribution scheme is as follows: the ratio of the average thickness of the tenon to the average width of the groove is 1:2.

You can very accurately draw the spikes and their bevels according to the scheme shown in the figures on the right.

Other ways of division are also possible. You can choose, for example, a smaller width of the spikes. In the so-called English connection, the spikes are very narrow, and the grooves are wide. However, in any case, the studs should not be beveled too large to damage the narrow parts of the grooves.

Mark the thickness of the board on the part parallel to the end edge, then half the thickness and then draw a line, the distance to which from the end is equal to the thickness of the board multiplied by three. To now accurately distribute the four spikes and three grooves, put marks on the oblique auxiliary line, the distance between which is a multiple of 10. Then transfer this division to the marking lines.

Here the dashed lines show the middle lines of the grooves: the points of their intersection with the auxiliary line at a distance of "triple thickness" of the board are very important for the final marking.

From the points of intersection of the middle lines of the grooves with the auxiliary line, draw lines through the points on the marking line "half the thickness of the board". Thus, the spikes and grooves will be marked very accurately.

markup

So, you have outlined the spikes and grooves on the front face of the board. Now you need to transfer the markup to the end side.

To do this, you need a square and a well-sharpened pencil, awl or knife. Depending on the type of wood, it may be useful or even necessary to cover the front side of the board with chalk: the markings will be more visible on a white background. From the end side, the markings are transferred to the back of the board.

The marking will be more accurate if the part is fixed on the workbench.

Marking from symmetrical elements on one part should be applied at the same time so that, for example, the contours of the spikes at the corners of the drawer coincide.

With the help of a sharpened pencil (or awl) and a square, the marking lines are transferred from the front face to the end side of the board.

Grooving

After transferring the marking lines, before starting to cut, shade the drop-out areas on the details - the gaps between the spikes. So you will not confuse anything with further sawing and working with a chisel.

The part should be fixed on the workbench in such a way that the marking lines of the bevels parallel to each other take a strictly vertical position. This is easy to do if you use a square. Saw first the grooves on one side, then turn the part over, fasten and saw through the remaining bevels of the grooves.

Install the saw not on the marking line, but close to it on a drop-down section of wood. From time to time check on both sides of the board if the saw is pointing correctly or if the cut needs to be corrected.

The grooves are cut with a chisel, which should be held strictly vertically. In this case, the position of the part itself must be horizontal. It is possible to more accurately guide the chisel when another board is fixed on top of the part, the edge of which runs along the line marking the depth of the grooves.

First, the grooves are processed with a chisel on one side of the part. After a recess is made about half the thickness of the board, it is turned over and the grooves are completed. This method avoids cracking of the board, as well as inaccuracies in the processing of grooves.

Fasten the part so that the marking lines take a strictly vertical position. Check with a square.

To cut grooves with a chisel, fix the parts on the workbench in a horizontal position. The part must not slide.

Saw only the sides with the same slope. Turn over and fasten the part, saw through the other sides.

spikes

Experienced carpenters prefer to first make the spikes and then cut the grooves on another board. But you can do it differently: use the ready-made grooves in order to mark spikes on another board.

At the same time, it is also recommended to cover the end side with chalk so that marking lines are not lost on a dark tree with catchy growth rings. The latter must be carried out very accurately. To do this, you can use an awl or a well-honed pencil.

Transferring layout lines

Marking lines from the end side of the board to the front and back plates are transferred strictly at right angles to the end. The length of the spikes depends on the thickness of the grooved board. These marking lines must also be perfectly accurate. It is better to mark the depth of the spikes not with the help of a board with grooves, but by measuring the length of the spikes from the end edge, transfer these dimensions to the corresponding part. Otherwise, the spikes may turn out to be longer than necessary.

When marking, keep in mind that the front should be the most better side boards, and the marking lines at the same time - as accurate as possible.

It is advisable to cover the dark wood details with chalk so that the marking lines are better visible and the cuts are more accurate.

Compound

To cut spikes on the part, it is again firmly clamped, but this time the position of the board should be strictly vertical, as well as cuts, which are only slightly beveled in a different plane, either to the left or to the right.

Fixing the part

To make cuts, the saw is also installed close to the marking line on the drop-down area of ​​​​wood. After completing the work with a saw, the part is fixed on a workbench in a horizontal position and proceed to the processing of intermediate sections between the spikes with a chisel. As with grooving, the notch is made only half the thickness of the board, after which the part is turned over and the “extra” wood is removed from the opposite side. At the same time, you can slightly correct the cuts if there is more than necessary between the marking lines of the wood.

First, make cuts only on the left or right side spikes, then parallel cuts on the other side.

After excavating the intermediate sections between the spikes, carefully trim the saw cuts with a chisel.

Gluing

Before you evenly and thinly apply glue to all the spikes and grooves, lightly sand the surfaces to be glued with sandpaper, without rounding the edges. Then try to connect the parts without glue. You will immediately see if they fit together and what else can be corrected.

Carefully connect the boards so that the spikes and grooves do not split. Keep in mind that the grooves are especially often cracked.

Glue is applied evenly in a thin layer over the entire surface of the spike. To do this, use the spout of a bottle of glue or a thin brush.

Joiner's putty will help correct mistakes

With an ideal connection of spikes and grooves, all butt joints are very tight, without the slightest gaps, which not only reduce the strength of the connection, but also spoil the appearance of the product. However, even experienced carpenters do not always achieve perfect results, so you should not be upset if the connection needs to be corrected in some places.

Proceed as follows. Spread a plastic sheet under the workbench and shake off the sawdust on it. From sawdust and glue, make carpentry putty, which will help you make small adjustments.

Although ready-made carpentry putties and mastics of various colors are available for sale, home-made putty has advantages: it contains sawdust of the wood with which you are currently working, that is, this putty will fully match the tone of your product.

Putty should be applied carefully, in small portions, filling only the cracks. It is better to compact and level the puttied areas with a chisel blade, and not with a spatula.

Homemade putty will help you correct errors such as chipped chips or inaccuracies in work.

Sample

Wedge-shaped spikes can be quickly and accurately cut with a cutter using a special drill bit and template. In this case, during one working operation, two parts are processed at once, installed with a slight offset to each other. True, their connection is noticeably different from the dovetail connection made traditional way, since when machining parts, all the spikes and grooves are the same. For this reason, the connection cannot be considered decorative, but it is also beautiful in its own way, and most importantly, very reliable. The distribution of tenons and grooves in such a connection depends on the size of the cutter used.

You can quickly cut the spikes with a cutter if you use a special nozzle for a drill.

This is how a template is used for cutting spikes with a cutter fixed in a drill.

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STUD JOINTS "DOVEL TAIL"

The dovetail stud joints are not only visually attractive, but also very durable. The ability to properly cut such spikes is a sign of skill that comes with experience.

When assembling furniture, fasteners are now widely used - screws, dowels, various ties. However, spike connections, including those on dovetail spikes, do not finally give up their positions. They are quite reliable and at the same time beautiful. On such connections, for example, the side walls of cabinet furniture with covers can be fastened. Breaking a dovetail joint by stretching is not easy. Therefore, it is often used in the manufacture of drawers. But we should not forget that the dovetail connection is resistant to such a load in only one direction.

Chipboard parts are not suitable for dovetail joints: this material is too loose. In one way or another, plywood, boards or furniture panels are suitable here.

Dovetail spike shape

If you look at the connection from above, you can clearly see that the "dovetails" are fan-shaped spikes at the end of one of the parts. The sides of the spikes are beveled inward with a slope ranging from 1:5 - for "rough", but strong connections used when rallying softwood parts and furniture panels, up to 1:8 - for hardwood parts. The connection on the latter looks more attractive. And you need to know that with a smaller slope, the connection under load can disperse, and with a larger one, the spikes can collapse.

In the finished connection, the “teeth” that engage with the spikes are clearly visible. The slope of the spikes must exactly match the slope of the "teeth".

There should always be "teeth" (and not halves of spikes) in the connection along the edges -

this prevents buckling of the connected parts.

Another factor that affects the appearance of joints is the distance between the dovetails. In principle, the following rule applies: the wider the dovetails (thorns) or the greater the distance between them, the better. However, there is a limit to everything, besides, products come in different sizes (for example, a chest and a box), and one should not forget about the strength of the connection.

Marking spikes

The preparation of parts begins with trimming (their thickness does not have to match), and then mark
the position of the spikes and "teeth". It is better for a novice master to give a small (1-2 mm) allowance in length.

Malka is used for marking. To adjust it to the slope angle of the spikes, for example 1:6, two mutually perpendicular lines are drawn on paper and from the intersection point they are divided into six equal parts. Connect the sixth mark on one line with the first mark on the other. The slope of the resulting diagonal will be 1:6. According to this sketch, Malka is exposed.

At both edges, parts with spikes outline the width of the extreme "teeth" and draw lines through these points parallel to the edges. Next to the detail diagonally
impose a tape measure or ruler and turn it until the size between the lines is divided without a trace by the desired number of spikes. These points are marked on the diagonal, and then, using a thickness gauge, they are transferred to the end of the part. As a result of these simple constructions, the positions of the centers of the gaps between the spikes are determined.

On both sides of the centers found, lay off the same segment (in our example, 3 mm). The distance between the ends of the segments will be equal to the minimum gap between the spikes. From these points, with the help of a bevel, finally, the spikes themselves are marked. The height of the spikes is marked with a thickness gauge placed on a thick

the tire of the part with “teeth”. Marking is done on both sides of the part.

If the part has a length allowance, it should be taken into account when marking. In this case, the length of the spikes will be slightly longer than required. Later, when the parts are connected, the excess is removed with an end planer.

When marking, all parts with spikes are marked with some conventional signs to avoid confusion.

thorn cutting

For cutting spikes and “teeth”, special tenon saws are used. When using a conventional fine-toothed rip saw, it will require additional preparation, in particular, to reduce the tooth setting (especially if the saw is new). To do this, the saw blade is placed with its entire surface on the touchstone and one or two times it is easily passed over it. The same is repeated, turning the canvas over to the other side.

When cutting dovetail spikes, the part is clamped in a vise. If there are two such parts (for example, the side walls of a drawer), the spikes can be cut into both at once.

Start cutting along the marking lines by tilting the saw back and at the same time guiding it with your fingernail thumb. When the cutting line is "caught", the saw is leveled and work continues until the part is sawn to the full height of the tenon (to the horizontal mark). Under no circumstances should this label be crossed.

Now you can remove the material between the notches that form the tenons. This operation is performed with a chisel. Having selected wood on one side up to half the thickness of the part, it is turned over and processed in the same way on the other side.

Next, proceed to cutting the "teeth". The part with “teeth” is clamped in a vise, the part with sawn spikes is placed on the end and fixed. Then the saw is inserted into the cuts and the end part of the part with “teeth” is cut. Finally, the “teeth” are cut in the same way as the “dovetails”. And in this case, sawing should not be done along the marked line, but in such a way that the teeth of the saw lightly touch it from the outside. In conclusion, the material between the "teeth" is removed with a chisel.

Before connecting the parts, it is necessary to eliminate possible irregularities and carefully bevel the inner edge on both sides of each tenon (especially on the outer ones). This will facilitate the operation of connecting parts, and in the finished product such a bevel will not be noticeable.

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