Drawings for the manufacture of a change house from a metal pipe. Do-it-yourself installation of a change house: step by step instructions. Country change houses of frame type

17.11.2019

If you have become the proud owner of a summer cottage, but the construction of a house is still ahead, you need to take care of a small utility room - a change house. The change house is useful for storing tools, building materials, work clothes and just for relaxing after a hard day's work. Of course you can buy finished structure and put it on the site, but building a change house with your own hands will cost much less, besides, a wise owner of a suburban area will never miss the opportunity to gain useful experience and skills. In this article you will find step-by-step instructions for making change houses.

The change house is a utility room in the form of a small house where you can store all kinds of garden utensils and construction supplies. But there are no clear rules for using a change house - you can make a shed out of it for storing unnecessary things or turn it into a cozy guest house. Depending on the future purpose of the change house, the features of its construction also differ. So, if this is a tool shed, then there is no need to insulate it too carefully. And, on the contrary, if it is planned to accommodate guests or relatives in a change house, isolation and improvement should be approached in a special way.

In some cases, you can make a small garage for garden equipment or a motorcycle out of a change house. Many, with the onset of cold weather, transfer poultry, bees or rabbits there, placing animals for the winter. However, no matter how you use the change house, it will come in handy in any case.

Types of cabins

There are several options for the design of change houses, depending on the construction technology. It, in turn, determines the cost of work and the performance of the building.

Change houses are of the following types:

To save time, you can buy a used change house, but in this case, pay attention to the degree of wear. Carefully inspect the structure inside and out. Keep in mind that the cost of transporting and renting a crane will be added to its cost. Before deciding to buy even an old change house, add up all the amounts of upcoming costs and compare them with the cost of building materials - it may be cheaper and easier to build a change house with your own hands.

Construction technology

Despite the fact that the change house is considered a secondary utility room, its construction should be approached responsibly. And it's best to start with a drawing. The scheme of the change house should include the dimensions of the walls, the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof, the floor, the insulating layers and the attachment points of the elements. With the help of a sketch, you can imagine how the structure will look on the site and how it can fit into the landscape. Only after creating a detailed drawing of a change house (or even several), you can calculate the required amount of materials (add 15% of the stock to the amount received) and go to the store.

If you plan to store garden tools or construction tools in a change house, windows are useless there. In the event that it will serve as a guest house or a summer kitchen, it is better to take care of full-fledged natural light (it will help save on electricity).

By the way about the electrification of change houses. Wiring should also be displayed on the drawing (preferably on a separate one). You will find more information on this topic in the articles and.

Where to put a change house?

When all building materials are purchased, you need to choose a place for installing a change house. First of all, you should take into account the duration of the use of the building and the possibility of its transfer to another place if necessary. For example, if you are going to build a summer house for a couple of seasons, and then move it to another site or sell it. In this case, it is better to place the change house closer to the entrance to the site or provide car access to it.

It is also necessary to think over all the options for using the structure. If garden tools and tools are stored in the change house, it is better to place it closer to the center of the site and create free access from all sides. If you will make a bath out of a change house, you can “hide” it in a secluded corner of the garden behind the trees. The farther the change house-bath is from a residential building, the better in terms of fire safety.

If the change house is planned to be used as a greenhouse, it is better to choose the highest and sunniest place on the site for it. However, regardless of the purpose of the building, a site should be prepared for it.

How to install a shed:

The selected area of the area must be cleared of weeds and any vegetation.
Next, remove the fertile soil layer. Depending on the characteristics of the soil, the thickness of the turf can be from 15 to 30 cm.
Having leveled the site, it is necessary to cover it with construction polyethylene (a film 200 microns thick is quite suitable). Greenhouse film is not recommended because it is not strong enough. The film layer should cover the entire area under the future change house and go to the edges of 20 cm on each side. The film is the simplest waterproofing for the foundation. You should not feel sorry for her, and even more so neglect this step, otherwise after 2-3 years you will notice traces of the destruction of the foundation.
A mixture of river sand and gravel should be poured over the film with a layer of 20 cm. This will fix the waterproofing and at the same time level the surface.
In order for sedimentary waters to freely move away from the change house and not linger near it, you can make a slight slope around the building of 2 cm per meter.

The foundation of the change house

The change house is not a very heavy building, no matter what materials are used, so it makes no sense to pour a powerful expensive foundation under it. The best option- column base. It's inexpensive, fast, and pretty easy. Plus, the columnar foundation leaves a ventilation gap in the underground, which prolongs the life of the building.

Useful advice: If it seems to you that the change house on such a foundation will not be warm enough, there is an excellent solution - create a formwork around the perimeter, pour the solution over the entire area to get a border 7-10 cm high. It is quite enough to insulate the floor with high quality. Use expanded clay as floor insulation.

In our case, the pillars are concrete blocks, but they can be made of brick, reinforced concrete and other materials. You will find more information on this topic in the article.

Working process:

Install concrete poles-blocks in accordance with the change house plan.
Cover the upper ends of the pillars with rolled waterproofing (a regular roofing material will do).
With the help of a beam for the base and building level adjust the position of the posts horizontally so that they are strictly in the same plane.

Change house frame

As you already understood, we are building a frame change house, the material for the base of which was chosen timber with a section of 100x150 mm. You can take a little thinner - 100x100 mm or 100x120 mm.

How to make a change house:

The roof of the change house

How to make a roof of a change house:

Roofing material can be any to your taste. In our case, this is ondulin - practical and inexpensive. If the change house is residential, the roof should be carefully insulated, since it is through it that most of the heat usually escapes. To do this, first attach the vapor barrier to the crate, then the insulation, the waterproofing film, and only after that - the finish coating (profiled flooring, ondulin, metal tiles, etc.).

House windows and doors

As for windows and doors, they should be installed in the same way, focusing on the functionality of the structure. Even if you are going to store shovels and rakes in a change house, you should make at least one ventilation window for ventilation, otherwise mold will start up very quickly inside.

The location of windows and doors should be established at the time of design in order to mount additional reinforcing racks at the openings during the construction of the frame. If you forgot to provide for them in the project, then you can organize openings after the construction of the frame. During work, be sure to use a laser level or water level to avoid distortions.

The floor of the change house

With an uninsulated floor in a change house, everything is clear - I made a boardwalk and you're done. Another thing is to make the floor so that you can walk on it without shoes in winter and not be afraid to get sick. To do this, you must first lay the subfloor, then the insulation and the finish coat.

Expanded clay, vermiculite, polystyrene foam boards or mineral wool can be used as insulation. To exclude a draft from under the door, it is better to make a threshold at the entrance. It can be cut in the base beam itself or attached separately by nailing the bar.

How to build a floor in a change house:

Warming and finishing

To make the change house warm and cozy, the walls need to be insulated with high quality. To do this, first cover the entire surface with a thick plastic film - it will protect interior from wind and moisture.

Then you can lay the insulation and cover it again with a film for additional protection. In principle, this process is no different from the insulation of the roof or floor. For wall cladding on the outside, you can choose siding or other weather-resistant material. The widest range allows you to choose a variant of exterior finish that will fit into any landscape.

Inside, the change house can be lined with clapboard or make the interior more comfortable by upholstering the walls with wooden panels. All those finishes that are used in ordinary residential premises are acceptable here: wallpaper, paint, plaster, tile, etc.

As for amenities (lighting, plumbing, sewage), they must be taken into account when creating a drawing. Articles "" and "" will help to deal with these questions.

The construction of change houses in practice is not so difficult. And if you are planning to build a residential building with your own hands, then the change house will be an excellent workout before a large-scale undertaking.

Change houses: photo

You will definitely need temporary housing, i.e., the place where people involved in construction will live.

And it is important enough that the construction of this temporary premises does not take much time. The consumable building materials used should be improvised and have a minimum cost.

A frame change house of a standard type is carried out without the use of internal partitions; in this change house there should be a small amount and.

With such budget option this change house will cost you about twice as much as a frame-panel change house, but its quality will be much higher and more reliable, because the frame change house is much stronger due to strong timber, and others building materials used in work.

Necessary building materials and tools for installing a change house

A do-it-yourself change house is carried out only with the use of building materials necessary for work, as well as tools.

Below is a list of required materials:

Cinder blocks are needed to build a temporary foundation;
Sand and geotextiles;
or bituminous mastic;
Wooden and logs;
silicate brick;
Various fittings, corners, self-tapping screws;
To cover the roof;
Mineral wool and;
lining, wooden planks, bars of different sizes.

It is also necessary to prepare the tools that you will definitely need when building a change house: a shovel, a hammer, a drill and others.

Do-it-yourself frame change house step by step instructions

If the change house is temporary, for easy disassembly in the future, the foundation is made of cinder blocks, which are perfectly disassembled and are of low cost.

Temporary cinder block foundation

To install cinder blocks, you need to remove them from the ground, then tamp the ground and cover it with special geotextiles, then fill everything with sand and tamp it well again.

Cinder blocks are laid on the base.

They must be placed in each corner and with gaps between them of 1.5 meters.

Cinder blocks must be waterproofed with roofing material or mastic and fixed with a special wooden one.

Drawings, materials

The third stage is the erection of the frame of the walls and the installation of the roof.

Building walls and roofs

To begin with, they build a foundation, applying along the perimeter of the entire structure. Lags are laid across and along.

A change house is a small auxiliary building made of wood, metal or any other building material and equipped with everything necessary for temporary residence in it. In addition, in buildings of this type, as a rule, a special compartment is provided, like a pantry, used to store working tools and equipment. Before you make a change house with your own hands , you should clearly define the purpose for which it is needed. In the article, we will consider options for change houses (caravans) that you can make yourself, give detailed step-by-step instructions, and also demonstrate drawings, photographs and videos.

The purpose of the building

In this case, two options are possible that determine the choice of the design of the building itself, as well as the material used in the construction.

Firstly, a change house trailer can serve as a place for long-term residence of workers hired to build the main house on the site allocated to you. In this case, it should provide a full range of amenities necessary for rest and eating, as well as for protection from the weather and heating in the winter season. In addition, it is often necessary to store building materials and equipment in such a house, for which a special place should be allocated.

Secondly, the change house can be used simply as a place to store working tools and inventory on your suburban area. In this situation, the presence of any amenities in it is most often not provided.

Naturally, for each of these options, a separate project should be prepared, taking into account factors such as:

the material used in the construction (the frame of the change house can be made of both wood and metal);
type of foundation, the choice of which is determined by the type of material used, as well as its purpose;
the size of the building, the conditions for its placement and other nuances.

Based on the conditions for the use of the change house that we have already considered, then if it is used as a place of temporary residence for workers, it can be installed anywhere on your land plot. But at the same time, you need to make sure that the place you have chosen is at a certain distance from the building site, storage areas, as well as the ways of transporting building materials and laying lines for future communications.

In the event that your trailer will be used as a room for storing inventory in a summer cottage, taking into account all the factors listed above is not at all necessary.

Before you build a change house in a particular place in the garden plot, you should decide on its size, the choice of which is also determined by its purpose. So, if several workers should rest in a change house and materials that need to be dried will be stored, you will need a building measuring at least 2.5 by 6 meters. If the trailer will be used as a storage for working clothes and tools, as well as a place of shelter from the weather, a size of 2 by 4 meters is quite enough. Such dimensions should also suit those summer residents who intend to use the change house as a temporary summer kitchen.

When choosing the size and location of the trailer, it should also be possible to transfer it to another place or potential sale, which is associated with the need to organize transportation. At the same time, it should be taken into account that on the roads of Russia, without special permission, it is allowed to transport goods of certain dimensions (width - no more than 2.55 meters, height - no more than 4 meters from the level of the roadway).

It is also necessary to take care of simplifying the work associated with loading and unloading the change house in case of its transportation to another place.

Taking into account all the above restrictions, the dimensions of your future building should be as follows:

width - about 2.4 meters;
height - no more than 2.5 meters;
length - no more than six meters.

At the same time, the weight of the change house should not exceed five tons, which will allow you to use a conventional manipulator to transport it.

Selecting the type of foundation

In any of the options we have considered, there is no need to prepare a powerful foundation for a change house using or, for example. In such a situation, the main task of the foundation being built is to protect the future structure from moisture spreading from the side of the ground.

A fairly effective and cost-effective option for this case is the use of special asbestos-cement cups, cinder blocks or expired sleepers as the basis.

The laying of the foundation base using any of these building products is carried out as follows:

First, earthworks are carried out, starting with cleaning the site selected for development from debris and grass.
Then, in its corners, as well as in the places of the planned placement of supports (6–8 pieces are enough for a change house), the top layer of soil is removed.
After that, a pillow is made on the bare soil from a mixture of crushed stone, screenings and sand, which is slightly wetted with water, and then carefully compacted using a special tamping device.
When using asbestos-cement cups as foundation pillars, it is allowed to lay paving slabs under them, which allows you to slightly increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe supporting base.
Cinder blocks or sleepers are placed on a pillow with a mandatory check of their laying for horizontal; for this it will be possible to use any suitable level.
For reliable protection of the wooden frame of the structure from soil moisture, pieces of roofing material are laid on the supports (preferably in several layers).

Such a foundation is quite simple to manufacture and can be prepared independently in just a few hours. Well, if it becomes necessary to transfer the change house to a new place, its dismantling from such a base will be extremely simplified.

Wall construction and decoration

Upon completion of the arrangement of the foundation, it will be possible to proceed directly to the construction of the change house itself, which we will consider using the example of making a wooden trailer frame.

These works begin with laying on supports and fixing a beam on them. bottom strapping, which can be used as a board with a section of 100 × 150 mm. This beam is securely fastened to the foundation supports with the help of special anchors, and then corner and intermediate posts are mounted on it.

After installing all the racks provided for by the project, it will be possible to proceed to the installation of the upper trim bars. When carrying out all these operations of the same type, it is necessary to adhere to the following recommendations:

it is most convenient to use boards with a section of 50 × 150 mm as racks, for fixing which simple (or screw) nails or self-tapping screws are used;
nodal ligaments are preferably performed by cutting the racks into the harness, followed by strengthening this place with metal corners;
for temporary fastening of the racks after leveling them, you can use long boards (jibs);
the sex logs cut directly into the beam of the lower harness. If you want to insulate the floor, you will have to prepare its filing along the lower cut of the log, on which plates or mats of insulating material will subsequently be laid;
when choosing the distance between the racks, one should proceed from the fact that insulation boards can easily fit between them;
it is advisable to immediately decide where the door and windows of the change house will be located.

After the frame of the trailer is ready, you can proceed to the sheathing of its outer surface suitable for your conditions. facing material (OSB sheets, For example).

The internal cavities of the frame formed in this case are filled with pre-prepared insulation plates, which are then covered with a layer of vapor barrier film and sheathed with clapboard. If desired, you can additionally protect the outer walls of the trailer from the weather by lining them with corrugated board, for example.

Arrangement of the roof, windows and doors

After the base of your house has been prepared, you can proceed to the installation of floor structural elements such as logs and rafters (the same board with a section of 50 × 150 mm will do for this purpose). Upon completion of their installation, along the lower cut of the lag, the ceiling is filed from an inch board, plywood sheets or OSB.

After that, a layer of vapor barrier film is attached on top of the filing, on which plates or mats of mineral wool insulation, for example, are then laid. Note that in change houses, as a rule, a pitched roof is used. In the manufacture of covering boards, the battens are fastened across the rafters, after which sheets of your choice are laid on them. roofing material(for these purposes it is most convenient to use slate or galvanized profiled sheet).

As for the arrangement of windows in the trailer, it will be possible to use standard wooden frames for their manufacture.

If your trailer will be operated in the winter season, it is better to install plastic windows(preferably with double glazing). Entrance door for such a building it can be metal or wooden, and to create additional protection from cold air in the house, it will be possible to equip a small vestibule.

Approximate cost estimates

In the event that you intend to make a change house completely from new purchased materials, the approximate amount of expenses can be about 20–25 thousand rubles, which is approximately half the price of buying a finished trailer. In most regions of the country, for the indicated amount, you can purchase all the basic materials for construction.

If you want to save on building materials, you can always use the remnants of still usable old structures available at any summer cottage.

Video

Watch a video about the construction of a frame change house:

A photo

The construction of a private house usually begins with a "construction trailer". On the market you can find many offers for the purchase of new or used wooden cabins. There was even such a thing as a "block container" in everyday life. It is made of metal, has a large number of configuration options and can already be used as an element of modular housing construction.

But it is the do-it-yourself change house on wooden frame- the most economical and optimal solution for a zealous owner. After construction is completed, it can be used as a guest house, a shed for inventory and equipment, converted into a bathhouse or transported to a summer cottage.

Do-it-yourself change house: change house project

From the further use of the change house depends on its size, device and finishing materials.

As a small barn, internal partitions are not needed. There is also no need to insulate walls, floors and roofs.

If you plan to use a change house as a seasonal residence (for example, summer garden house), then it is possible to foresee the presence interior layout. Warming is best done at the construction stage - when using heaters, a do-it-yourself change house will be better to keep warm in spring and autumn, and in summer it will not get very hot in the sun.

For a construction trailer, the interior lining may be limited to inexpensive and simple materials. Conversion to garden or country house will require only refinement in terms of decorative finishes.

It is best if the interior space is divided into at least two rooms. For example, the house in the first photo can be represented in this form.

A small vestibule-entrance hall and a large room with one small window - a typical do-it-yourself construction trailer.

And this is an improved version with three windows, which can be conditionally called a house with a living room and a bedroom.

In this diagram, the change house consists of three rooms - a vestibule and two equivalent rooms.

And of course, before starting construction, you need simple drawing with basic dimensions.

Do-it-yourself change house: foundation

How to build a cabin - step-by-step instruction construction of a change house begins with the foundation.

Feature small wooden structure in her light weight. But even this does not mean that it can be placed directly on the ground. To protect against the effects of soil moisture (including from precipitation in the form of rain and snow), an elevated base is necessary.

The simplest kind is columnar foundation . Its strength is enough to withstand the weight of the change house. For temporary placement (and setting a horizontal level), bricks or cinder blocks are often used, laid simply on the ground. But in any case, it is better to use full-bodied blocks. Such an option as in this photo, even for a temporary base, is not the best the best choice, especially since the block was initially laid sideways and the pressure falls not on the walls, but on the voids.

Cinder block, although it refers to concrete, but hollow blocks are used to build walls.

Even the columnar foundation must be done according to the rules. A small depression is dug under each base, the bottom is rammed, a sand cushion (at least 20 cm) is poured, which is watered and compacted, and blocks are laid on top. Sand prevents capillary rise of moisture and acts as a drainage.

There is alternative options column foundation.

A geomembrane is laid on the ground cleared of the top layer, a layer of sand is poured on top, and then the base is laid out of the blocks.

Instead of sand, crushed stone of small or medium fraction can be used.

Even paving slabs large format can serve as the basis for a columnar foundation of blocks.

For permanent deployment, it is possible to use asbestos-cement pipes dug to the depth of soil freezing and filled with concrete as pillars. This is if not a construction building, but a summer cottage with their own hands is being built.

The distance between the posts is usually chosen based on the size of 1.5-2.5 meters. Therefore, in addition to the corner supports, there will be 1-2 additional ones along the perimeter plus internal ones (under the partitions and for the beam, which ensures the rigidity of the subfloor).

In addition to the columnar, the arrangement of the slab foundation is applicable. Of course, a reinforced concrete monolith for such a structure is redundant, but large-format paving slabs on a loose sand base are quite suitable.

Do-it-yourself change house: supporting frame

How to build a change house with your own hands, for this you need only dry wood. But this is not enough - all the wooden elements of the frame and sheathing must be treated with antiseptics. Moreover, mining is only suitable for “underground” elements, but the change house does not have them, and drying oil is only a temporary protection against moisture and mold, so it is necessary to use antiseptics and fire retardants.

A 150 × 100 mm beam is best suited as a lower trim. This size is even used for the grillage of a columnar or pile foundation of wooden and frame small residential buildings. The easiest gusset- in the floor of the tree.

Then follows the second crown of timber 100 × 100 mm. Moreover, the installation takes place with an internal "step" between the crowns. This is the best device for underfloor heating. Logs for a finished floor with a section of 100 × 50 mm are mounted on a 50 mm shelf.

Corner and load-bearing posts (for partitions and doors) are made of 100 × 100 mm timber, intermediate posts (including for fixing windows) are made of 100 × 50 mm timber. They are attached to the harness with metal corners,

previously leveled and fixed with temporary jibs.

Alternatively, dowels can be used, which will additionally fix the corner connection of the harness.

A frame wooden change house can be erected not element by element, but by sections mounted on the ground. This also applies to walls.

and to the upper harness assembly with the truss system.

But such a technology will require the involvement of assistants, therefore, when building a change house with their own hands, more “light” (by weight) techniques are often used.

The upper harness follows the same rules as the lower one. The supporting beam along the perimeter has the same cross section as the corner posts of the frame. The elements are connected to the floor of the tree, having previously selected the grooves at the intersections. First, mount the long side, fixing it to the racks with a temporary fastener.

Then install the cross bar. After checking the levels and angles, the upper harness is finally attached to the racks with a metal corner.

For pitched roof, and this is the simplest option, the upper harness can be performed in two levels, when the front (or rear) racks are made at the required slope angle.

But there is a more complex option using wall racks.

Additional racks

Intermediate racks (100 × 50 mm) are also fixed to the lower and upper trim using corners.

The distance between the uprights is chosen based on the width of the insulation and the dimensions of the sheet sheathing material. If for interior decoration use lining, and for external -block house or siding, then only the width of the insulation is of decisive importance. The usual recommendation is 600 mm between the axes of the uprights. This size is tied to drywall.

But when sheathing OSB (OSB)(the most common for frame technology material), each of its sheets will require trimming by 50 mm. Therefore, if the inner lining is made with clapboard, then it is better to choose an axial distance between the uprights of 625 mm. The gap between the posts will be 575 mm, which is acceptable for laying mineral wool with a width of 600 mm and a deformation strip of 50 mm.

For racks between which windows and doors are mounted, their own criteria. You can, of course, make the frame of a paneled door and window frames out of timber yourself, but more often they buy finished goods. Therefore, they will require the installation of additional racks and struts.

And if the doors are standard in width and height, then the windows can be large

or vice versa a little more than a window leaf.

Change house: roof

Do-it-yourself change house, there are many ways to attach the rafters to the Mauerlat (in this case, to the top trim bar). The simplest one uses metal staples. For more reliable fixation, you can either cut a groove in the rafter, or use a support bar.

Rolled waterproofing is attached to the rafters, and a crate on top. The step of the lathing depends on the type of roofing material and the angle of the slope.

The most inexpensive is ondulin (a modern analogue of slate). For an angle less than 10 °, a continuous crate is made, up to 15 ° - a step of 450 mm, more than 15 ° - 600 mm.

Change house: floor

Change house do-it-yourself floor device. First, boards (or OSB-3) of the subfloor are fixed between the lag. The protruding edge of the lower trim bar (150 × 100 mm) is used as a support.

Then the surface of the subfloor is covered with a waterproofing film. For this, dense polyethylene is often used, but they are considered more reliable. roll materials with bitumen or polymer-bitumen impregnation Hydroisol . The film is laid overlapping between strips of at least 20 cm, with sizing the seams with construction tape. The edges of the strips should go to the walls (the same 20 cm).

A heater is placed between the lag. It is better to choose mineral wool, for example URSA (URSA). Unlike polystyrene, it is not combustible and rodents do not start in it. Its only drawback is hygroscopicity and the property of losing insulating properties when saturated with moisture (the same condensate). Therefore, a gap is needed between the finishing flooring and vapor permeable membrane or use Izospan impervious to water - this will protect the mineral wool from direct contact with water and allow water vapor to escape from it.

As a finishing floor, a tongue-and-groove board is best. The principle of connecting the "thorn-groove" coating allows you to further protect the insulation from water ingress into it.

But you can lay the same OSB (OSB), and linoleum on top.

Change house: ceiling

In order for the change house to be warm, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling. Of course, cold air will not descend from top to bottom, but warm air will “disappear”. In addition, getting on a cold ceiling, it will cause condensation. That is why even for a shed roof it is necessary to equip a small "attic" distance and insulate it with mineral wool. The principle is the same as for the floor: overlap (board or OSB), Izospan waterproof film, insulation ( mineral wool).

Decorative lining from the inside is performed similarly to walls.

Change house: walls

The classic sandwich frame structure has several layers: inner lining, vapor barrier film Izospan , insulation between the racks of the frame (mineral wool), vapor-permeable membrane, spacer bar (for ventilation gap), OSB and decorative cladding.

In practice, the outer skin for a change house can be “simplified” to one outer layer - either OSB (OSB) or decorative trim. Given the low "aesthetic" properties of OSB, the second option is more often chosen, although the plates can be painted in any color like a regular wooden surface.

Most often for exterior finish choose a block house.

It is stronger and “warmer” than lining and is more suitable for outdoor decoration. You can use imitation timber.

As an alternative wood paneling some prefer vinyl siding. It does not require maintenance or refinishing.

Interior decoration can also have an economy option from OSB (OSB)or fiberboard ,

which can be painted or covered with vinyl wallpaper.

But more common cladding with wooden clapboard.

The internal partition must be foreseen while developing the project of the change house, but it is not too late to equip it later. The main thing is that it is attached to one of the floor logs from below and the beam of the ceiling beam from above.

From the outside and from the inside, window and door trims are fixed. Corner joints are trimmed from the outside with planks or wooden profiles, and from the inside with skirting boards and fillets.

The finish is finished by sanding wood coatings, priming and varnishing.

Video

How to build a change house out of wood, on a metal frame

Having bought a plot, land, you think about the fact that you need to live somewhere while building a house. Such a temporary home in the country or garden plot is a change house. A small insulated structure, usually 3x6 or so in size. There are a lot of offers on the market: both wood and metal. But their quality is more than doubtful, the cheapest materials are used in construction. This is easy to verify by calculating the costs that you will incur if you decide to make a change house with your own hands. With the same dimensions, it’s cheaper for you, most likely, it won’t work, and if there is savings, then it’s small. You will consider normal materials, not the cheapest ones. But in terms of quality and durability, home-made change houses are many times superior to purchased ones.

What and how are they built

Almost all change houses are built using frame technology. As building materials for the frame, a wooden bar at least 100 * 150 mm or a profiled metal pipe 60 * 60 * 2 mm is used.

For sheathing, the choice of materials is much wider. Use:

edged board;
sheet material - plywood, OSB, chipboard;
profiled sheet;
siding.

In any case, sheathing is done on both sides - outside and inside. The outer one can also be metal, but inside they often make either lining or stuff plywood or OSB.

Thermal insulation is laid between the two skins. Although the building is temporary, spring and autumn, and sometimes summer nights, can be very cold. Therefore without warming - in any way. Any heater is possible. Better - mineral wool, cheaper - polystyrene. Extruded polystyrene foam has the best characteristics, but also the highest price. Just when choosing a heater, keep in mind that the foam almost does not muffle the sounds, so that the especially nervous will not be able to sleep. Therefore, the optimal choice is mineral wool. What layer? If wisely, then in Central Russia, preferably 100 mm, but at least 50 mm.

Please note that the floor also needs to be insulated. Especially the floor. The bottom is very tight. Therefore, it should be double: first, a draft, on top, across the board, put logs, insulation between them, and then the finishing floor.

Layout and drawings

Despite the fact that the building is considered temporary, it often turns into a bathhouse or a guest house. Therefore, even in a change house there is such a thing as planning. Even temporary housing should be relatively comfortable.

Change house trailer

There are two main types of change houses: trailer and vest. In a “trailer” type building, the entrance is on the side, there is no separation inside, in extreme cases they put a partition - 1.5-2 meters from the entrance. This room is used as a vestibule-dressing room and a warehouse for storing tools. This is the simplest possible option.

The drawings will contain graphic and numerical designations, their decoding is in the photo below.

vest

The most popular layout is the vest. This is when the entrance is in the middle. moreover, the middle is fenced off and used as a vestibule, pantry, etc. The purpose of the other two rooms may be different. Someone uses both as bedrooms, someone uses one as a kitchen.

Change house with toilet and shower

Not everyone agrees to lead a Spartan lifestyle even at a construction site or dacha, even temporarily. At least basic amenities are required. Although it's probably better to build them separately.

How to build a toilet on the street, read here, and how to make an outdoor shower - in this article.

with toilet

Having chosen a drawing, do not forget, when developing a frame for a change house, that racks must be placed at the junction of the walls. If doors are attached to the racks, they must be reinforced - double.

Foundation for a house

Since the structure is temporary and light, the foundations are usually posts or blocks. Mostly blocks. Preferably - concrete, standard. No - you can use any construction, but high density and not hollow.

They are placed on a prepared base. If the soils are normal, you can simply remove the sod and level the sites. For greater reliability, they dig a small pit under each block with a depth of about 20-25 cm. Crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured into it and rammed well. Blocks are placed on such a substrate.

Note! The top edge must be level (be in the same horizontal plane). It is also necessary to check the geometry of the foundation: the angles are strictly at 90 °, the diagonals are equal.

With a change house width of not more than 2.5 m and used for a frame wooden beam, place blocks in each corner, as well as under the places where the partitions depart. If the building is without partitions, the spacing step - every 1.5-2 m - depends on the cross-section of the timber and the planned sheathing, as well as the weight of the roofing material. With a width of 3 m or more, an intermediate beam is required, and a base for it. In this case, three rows of blocks are obtained.

To prevent dampness from entering the premises, waterproofing is laid on the blocks. It is possible - two layers of roofing material, it is possible - another waterproofing material, even a film. Another option is to brush bituminous mastic. On this, the foundation can be considered ready.

Step-by-step instructions: photo reports with explanations

It is difficult to understand some things from the description. No matter how much you read, but until you do it, or at least look at how others do it, you won’t understand. That's why photos of the construction of change houses are useful: you can see how the nodes were made and find a solution for yourself. This is a kind of guide for those who decide to build on their own.

Construction of a wooden cabin

A change house was built from wood in the country. Dimensions 3 * 6 m, insulated - for temporary residence during the construction of the house. Used the following materials:

Since the prices of materials are very dependent on the region, it makes no sense to talk about the cost of construction. But according to this list, you yourself can determine with fairly high accuracy how much the change house built by yourself will result in.

Please note that this list does not include roofing material (ondulin was planned) and there is no glass. Also, lining for interior decoration was not purchased.

Before the start of construction, all wood, with the exception of the lining, was treated with Senezh Ultra antibacterial impregnation. Coated in two layers. So the quality of processing should be normal.

The site for the building has been marked out. We decided to put the blocks on the sand bed. They dug holes with a depth of 25-30 centimeters, poured sand, tamped. Set up blocks. First, they put out the two extreme ones, put a flat board on them, and a level on it. So put the extreme blocks. Then intermediate boards were adjusted to the height of the board. So on all sides.

The next step was laying the floor joists. They were put in 50 cm, we will put racks through one. Made from a board 50 * 100 mm, placed on a narrow part.

We decided to immediately assemble racks with rafters on the ground, strengthen the joints with corners, and then in ready-made install. Collected from the same board 50 * 100 mm.

They nailed the racks with long nails. Then, for reliability, all attachment points were reinforced with corners and plates. They were already planted on self-tapping screws.

Bars 50 * 50 mm were nailed on the sides of the log. It turned out "nests" for laying foam. He was placed on mounting foam: and hermetic and reliable. A floor board was nailed on top.

Now the sheathing has gone directly. A lining of packs of 3 meters went to the short side, six meters were nailed to the long ones.

Having made the skin up to half, they laid the crate under roofing. They nailed a board 25 * 150 mm in increments of 30 cm, along the edges a pitch of 20 cm (so that the overhang could withstand). Then we continued with the trim.

In the places where the windows will stand, they put mortgages - a board that lies across the rack. The window frame will rest on it. They fastened with nails, through and through, but additionally the connections were reinforced with corners.

When the back and blind side walls were sewn up almost to the top, roofing material was rolled onto the roof. He will lie until we buy ondulin.

The outer casing is almost ready. Doors bought without finishing - only a frame upholstered with fiberboard

While we were finishing nailing the lining on the outside, work was also in full swing inside - they put foam. The width of the sheet is 100 cm, the distance between the posts turned out to be 95 cm. Thin strips have to be cut off.

So that it does not “fall”, we grab it from above with thin corners, which we attach, of course, only to the bar of the rack.

We started lining the inside, but the lining ended. While switched to painting the outside. It turned out well, it seems.

We bought the lining, finished the interior decoration.

Inside, they were also upholstered with clapboard. The beginning of the lining of the ceiling with clapboard. This is how the wall looks in the final version

Lining inside is covered with water-based varnish. It gives only a light tint in a little more dark color. Films on wood seem to be non-existent. If you look directly, it generally seems that the tree is not covered with anything. Only if you look from the side at a certain angle, you can see the shine.

On the floor, the varnish is already with a film: so that the wood does not wear out. Coated in two layers.

After we started finishing the overhangs. They were all sewn up with the same clapboard. In general, work with lining took the most time.

Metal frame for shed

Metal was chosen as the basis as more reliable and durable. The idea that the change house may have to be moved also played its role. If the frame is made of metal, nothing threatens her.

The dimensions were determined based on the length of the corner whips: 11.7 m. The following dimensions emerged: 2.8 * 5.8 m, height - 2.5 m. The frame was welded from a corner with a shelf of 75 mm, 6 mm thick.

The foundation is made on self-cast columns: construction began in autumn, and there is still nothing more to be done. So it was decided to pour reinforced posts: six pieces. First, the site was marked out, after which the places for the foundation columns were determined.

Holes 50*50 cm were dug, the total depth was about 30 cm. Crushed stone was poured into the bottom with a layer of about 10-15 cm and compacted tightly. From above, the same amount of sand, also with a rammer. As a result, the backfill came out on the same level with the ground.

Roofing material is laid at the bottom so that moisture does not leave the concrete, and it “matured” normally, and did not dry out. Next, the formwork was assembled and the reinforcement was laid in it.

The site is dry, the water drains normally, so there shouldn't be any problems. I just mastered welding, so the fittings are either welded or twisted - it is not clear.

Everything is filled with concrete, covered with a film: the end of October, and in order for the concrete to be of a normal fortress, it needs to be wrapped.

The frame frame was cooked for a long time - all winter: frosts, workload, did not allow to act with the desired frequency. The base was cooked from a corner of 75 mm, 6 mm thick, 40 * 2 mm were used for reinforcement.

The beginning of the frame of a change house from a metal corner - the lower harness

The side parts were cooked as a whole, then with the help of 4 people they were placed in a vertical position and so fixed. On the racks to which the window frames and doors will be attached, profiled pipes 40 * 40 * 2 mm went.

The most inconvenient moment is to measure the diagonals alone. You have to constantly control them, and doing it alone is inconvenient. But everything must be set, otherwise it will be skewed.

To give greater rigidity, I welded strips of metal in the corners. I received them by opening a corner (40 mm). It was possible to buy a strip, but I used corner trimmings.

Stripes for rigidity in the corners of the frame We weld the plates in the corners: at the top and bottom

We weld a few beams at the top. Now the frame for the change house is "iron"

Now the skin remains. It can be anything: even the same lining, block house, even an economy option - plywood and OSB. To attach the bleaching to the corner, it is more convenient to screw the timber, and to it already attach the crate and everything else. The same situation for truss system: around the perimeter, a bar is screwed onto self-tapping screws with preliminary drilling, rafters are attached to it.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity aluminum braid is prone to rust.
Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red - with hot.

When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connected gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible piping. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and accessories for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.

Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess ground water.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:

clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
high occurrence of groundwater;
technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What causes excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?

the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs

Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, rank;
from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow on high beds;
the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
the optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Do you need site drainage?

Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along a bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?

Or is it worth it drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

Upon completion of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement sewer system in an apartment building production building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved and the act of testing systems internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the facility.

A visual check should be accompanied by entering into the test report of internal sewerage and drain systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.