Strip foundation isolation device. Do-it-yourself foundation waterproofing: how to make your own foundation waterproofing at home. Coating vertical waterproofing of the foundation
Concrete is the main material for laying the foundation. It is not subject to the damaging effects of water and serves as an excellent conductor, passing water inside the house. Moisture inside the house, in turn, creates an environment for the growth of fungi and mold. The foundation is often reinforced with a reinforcing mesh, which, under the influence of moisture, can be corroded. Such reinforcement can cause cracks, and the foundation loses strength and durability over time. Sometimes developers neglect. This may be done for the purpose of economy or negligence in construction. But in the near future, the residents of the new house will see with their own eyes the sad consequences of dishonest work. With improper waterproofing, the foundation, floor and walls of the house, basements, and roof begin to collapse. The list can be continued, listing almost all the elements of the building. A reasonable question arises, how to properly waterproof the foundation and other elements of the house.
To prevent the accumulation of moisture from the soil in the foundation and to prevent the destructive effects of mold and fungus, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation.
The waterproofing layer for any houses and buildings must be complete, without flaws and cracks. A protective layer is applied to the outer surface of the foundation, walls, basement, since it is from this side that the interaction of the house with moisture will occur. So how do you waterproof?
There are two types of water that can negatively affect the foundation. These include surface and ground water.
To protect against rain and melt water, builders use a waterproof blind area. And since it rains in all regions, the blind area must always be done. However, protection from ground water may not always be set. On construction sites with waterproofing should be carried out mandatory. It is also necessary to take into account the rise of groundwater during seasonal warming. Therefore, foundation waterproofing is required if:
- Groundwater is located at a distance of less than a meter from the bottom of the foundation. If during a seasonal flood the water level rises a couple of meters higher, then the foundation can be treated with coating waterproofing. Thus, it is possible to reliably protect the foundation and walls of the house from capillary absorption of water into the concrete.
- Groundwater is located deeper than 1 meter. Here, a waterproofing layer is optional, but, taking into account the seasonal rise in water, the proximity of the river and the presence of drainage devices and blind areas in neighboring areas, experts advise making inexpensive coating waterproofing.
- High groundwater level. In this case, groundwater reaches the same level or above the bottom sole of the foundation. At the same time, high-quality and thorough waterproofing should be done, and a drainage system should be included in the foundation construction project. A drainage device on such soil is simply necessary, since water creates pressure on the foundation, while at the same time reducing the strength of the foundation on the ground. As a result, the foundation may shift, possibly even overturning it. Therefore, in addition to waterproofing, you need around the foundation. It will significantly reduce the level of groundwater and protect against excess moisture.
- Foundation construction on waterproof soil. Clay and loam with a layer of soil capable of absorbing water (sand) can be attributed to waterproof or water-permeable soils. Such soil does not allow water to spread from the site, but penetrates inside and begins to move, obeying the law of least resistance, towards the foundation.
- Aggressive ground water. It is necessary to know the composition of groundwater before building the foundation. Since aggressive waters can simply destroy concrete base, that is, lead to corrosion of concrete. All materials for the construction of the foundation must make the foundation resistant to the aggressive properties of groundwater. The most dangerous are pressure aggressive waters that create pressure on the foundation.
All underground waters can be divided into suspended, non-pressure, low-pressure and pressure waters.
In any case, it should be under a permeable layer of sand and gravel. Such a cushion isolates the capillary absorption of groundwater.
How to properly waterproof a foundation?
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Waterproofing of a monolithic foundation-slab
Material used:
- rolled roofing felt;
- insulation;
- concrete solution.
When you should use a rolled roofing felt. The foundation slab must be leveled with a concrete screed and waterproofing must be applied on top of it. Then the insulation is laid and the surface is covered with a concrete screed. You should wait until concrete screed dry, and only then begin the installation of floor coverings.
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Strip foundation and its waterproofing
Coating with bituminous mastic.
Material used:
- bituminous mastic;
- EPPS insulation or geotextiles;
- sand.
Coating the foundation of a house with bituminous mastic is considered the cheapest type of foundation waterproofing. It reliably prevents capillary penetration of groundwater. Pressure water will easily bypass such protection, and under their influence the waterproofing may be damaged. Also, the mastic does not withstand shifts and does not stretch.
Before applying the mastic, the surface should be carefully leveled and dried well, and it is better to round the corners of the foundation. Most often, such waterproofing is damaged during filling the gap with soil. Such soil is located around the foundation and contains a lot of debris: stones, reinforcement, glass, etc.
To protect the mastic coating, you can use XPS insulation, geotextiles or a brick wall.
EPPS insulation is most often installed on a foundation that stands on soil with a fairly high level of freezing. A protective brick wall is an expensive and rather laborious process.
Roll roofing felt.
Material used:
- rolled roofing felt;
- bituminous mastic.
A waterproofing layer is applied to the walls with a sprayer, filling all cracks and gaps in the walls of the foundation.
Roofing material is more expensive than bituminous mastic. But the advantages of such waterproofing are durability and strength. When backfilling the gap with clean sand, protection for the waterproofing layer can be omitted.
Before covering the foundation walls with waterproofing, the surface should be leveled and treated with hot bituminous mastic. Then 2 layers of roofing material are attached with an overlap equal to 10 cm.
How to make tape-type foundation waterproofing with a spray gun?
Material used:
- special sprayer;
- container for heating the material;
- liquid bitumen.
Using a sprayer, a waterproofing layer is applied to the walls. The surface of the base can not be leveled, it only needs to be cleaned of dust. After applying the waterproofing, it should be reinforced along with the geotextile option. This method can be attributed to inexpensive options for applying waterproofing. Bitumen is easy to apply, filling all cracks and gaps in the walls of the foundation.
In a container, a mixture of oil and bitumen should be heated. As soon as the mixture becomes homogeneous, you can start pollinating the surface. Such waterproofing is best used if the foundation is of a complex shape or it is located next to a neighboring house. In these cases, it will be difficult to apply the roofing material gluing method, so a sprayer will be the most convenient option.
There is another way to apply a 25 mm cement mortar to the outer surface of the foundation if the water pressure reaches 20 meters.
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Do-it-yourself plastering
Scheme of applying plaster waterproofing.
Having chosen plaster as a waterproofing material, they solve two problems at once: leveling and from moisture. This circumstance makes the plaster layer quite attractive when waterproofing the foundation.
All necessary materials can be bought without spending a large number Money. Waterproofing of such a plan is very easy to manufacture.
To carry out work you will need:
- plaster;
- components that enhance water resistance;
- putty knife;
- container for the mixture;
- putty mesh;
- screws, dowels;
- screwdriver (preferably a screwdriver);
- perforator.
First of all, a mixture is prepared, which consists of a plaster solution with special waterproofing components. Then plaster mortar applied to foundation walls. Work is carried out in the same way as applying plaster to the walls. At the final stage, the putty mesh is attached to the foundation using screws and dowels.
The mesh is necessary to strengthen the plaster layer. Works are carried out to prevent the putty from collapsing during operation. The plaster layer performs well the functions of protecting and leveling the foundation walls.
But this method also has disadvantages, which reduce almost all advantages to zero. Due to the low waterproofing, plaster can only be used in regions with a dry climate. This option is short-lived and rather unreliable, which is characterized by the appearance of cracks.
The use of a special solution.
Waterproofing the foundation in this way is quite high quality. Distinctive feature- durability. Spraying does not require any special skills.
You will need:
- solution;
- protection for the face, hands;
- spray.
The solution is carefully sprayed and after drying, the next layer is applied. You will need to apply 4-5 layers.
The main difference of this option is the penetration of the solution directly into the base structure. Penetration reaches 15 cm. Protection occurs inside, not on the surface.
However, the cost of such waterproofing is high. Thanks to this method, you will get really high-quality waterproofing of the foundation of the house.
The strip foundation of your house should be “dressed” in waterproofing materials. Correct and reliable waterproofing strip foundation your home - this is one of the priorities that you must definitely solve.
Tape is a reinforced concrete strip. It goes along all the external dimensions of the structure and along the load-bearing internal walls.
We know from life experience that in order to preserve our health, we put on warm clothes in cold weather, we put on shoes accordingly in wet weather. We go fishing and hunting in special wading boots so as not to get our feet wet and not get sick. But many unfortunate builders think that the built house, in particular, its foundation, can be located in a rather damp and cold environment - in the ground - without protection from this aggressive environment.
Therefore, in order for the house you built:
- pleased you and more than one generation of your descendants;
- was a “long-liver”, for which you need to preserve the “health” of your home;
- did not cause trouble from frequent repairs, alterations, reconstructions due to illiterate construction and subsequent operation,
definitely needed modern technology for isolation from groundwater.
This is an important issue that we must deal with.
Strip foundations (scheme).
To create a waterproofing that will last you for many years, you need to use a high-quality, specially designed material with certain properties and characteristics.
The material used must be:
Modern materials have these properties and differ only in a greater or lesser degree of their manifestation.
good drainage
Light soils - sands and sandy loams - are able to easily pass the emerging moisture into the lower layers of the soil. Water does not stagnate near the erected foundation, and therefore waterproofing can be a little easier compared to the waterproofing device, standing on heavy, heaving soils - clay, loam.
As a rule, on heaving soils they arrange a drainage system for collecting and removing moisture from a concrete foundation. For this, special drainage membranes are used, which are placed under a monolithic slab on which a strip foundation stands.
Scheme of the device of the drainage system.
Under the sole of the reinforced concrete foundation strip, carried out in a trench (house without a basement) along all external and internal bearing walls at home, with a depth of the base of the foundation 20-30 cm below the freezing point of the soil, a sand-gravel or sand-gravel cushion must be built. Such drainage is able to divert moisture to the lower layers of the earth. The width of the bulk and compacted cushion should be 20 cm more than the width of the strip foundation. The cushion prevents water stagnation and silt or clay from being drawn in when the groundwater level rises on the foundation surface and damage to the vertical waterproofing. A vertically installed drainage membrane helps to drain excess water away from the building, preventing it from exerting pressure on the waterproofing itself and looking for weaknesses in it.
Horizontal and vertical insulation
Scheme of the horizontal waterproofing device
Horizontal waterproofing is carried out under a monolithic slab by laying a drainage membrane on a monolithic layer of lean concrete with a slope into the outlet pipeline, followed by the installation of a reinforced mesh and pouring a monolithic foundation slab, on which a strip foundation is assembled or poured around the perimeter of the house.
Horizontal waterproofing is also done to separate the upper plane of the strip foundation and the starting wall. It is carried out by spraying the appropriate material or laying rolled waterproofing materials.
All vertical planes of the strip foundation from top to bottom are covered with modern materials specially designed for this.
Several types of waterproofing
Non-pressure waterproofing protects the strip foundation from external atmospheric precipitation penetrating into the soil, and from the spring and autumn temporary rise in the groundwater level.
For reliable anti-pressure waterproofing of the basement, it is better to apply three layers of slurry.
After the vertical waterproofing is completed, the foundation is backfilled. The best result is achieved with layer-by-layer backfilling with inert, well-conducting water materials, such as quartz (river) sand with the least clay impurities, gravel mass or earth. Backfilling with construction debris is undesirable, since it is after this operation that the integrity of the waterproofing of the strip foundation can be damaged. On the surface of the earth around the entire perimeter of the building, a blind area 1 m wide is made of concrete or asphalt.
Anti-pressure insulation, in turn, protects the foundation of the house from contact with permanent nearby groundwater in the foundation area. Coating, spraying, painting materials are used for such purposes. After applying such insulating materials, a continuous layer of insulation is formed without joints and seams with good repulsive properties.
Capillary waterproofing prevents moisture droplets from entering the concrete monolith. It gives the best results when concrete is impregnated with compositions both from the inside and from the outside of the foundation tape. Impregnating compositions penetrate deep into the concrete for several centimeters, filling the smallest pores in the concrete, making the strip foundation practically airtight and able to withstand external moisture.
Scheme of junction of horizontal and vertical waterproofing.
Sequence of work
Work on the isolation of the strip foundation from the external influence of the environment should take place on a surface cleaned of dirt.
First of all, it is necessary to choose the method of application, and at the same time the insulating material itself.
Coating waterproofing is carried out with mastic, bituminous compounds, liquid glass. In most cases, it is used as the first layer of insulation and as a bonding layer for gluing rolled materials.
After this layer, the foundation is covered with roofing felt or other rolled materials in two layers, gluing the layers onto the mastic. The joints are made with an overlap of 20 cm.
Waterproofing is also possible with the use of spraying with special compositions using a sprayer.
After performing any type of waterproofing, it is advisable to mount a special roll-up profiled membrane, which will protect the waterproofing from damage and contribute to the removal excess water from the foundation. The membrane is also rolled out with an overlap at the joints of 15-20 cm.
The strength and durability of the foundation directly depend on the stability, integrity of the structures of the entire erected on this basis of the building, and even, to a certain extent, the safety of the people living in it. That is why special attention is always riveted to the process of constructing the foundation part of the structure, and only the best building materials are used for this.
However, no matter what high-strength materials neither used on the "zero cycle", they all have a common ruthless "enemy" - water, in one state or another. Moisture can reduce the strength of the structure being created in a relatively short time, so do-it-yourself waterproofing is the most important stage of self-construction own house which should never be overlooked.
What is dangerous moisture for the foundation
Water familiar to all of us, completely seemingly harmless to an amateurish look, can cause a lot of trouble to the foundation of a building:
- Firstly, the property of water is known to increase significantly in volume when it passes into a solid state - when it freezes. Penetrating into micropores and cracks of even the most durable structure when temperatures drop below 0º C, it is able to expand them, increase in size, and sometimes literally break them into separate fragments.
- Secondly, water on the surface of the earth, contained in the upper layers of the soil and even dropdown in the form of precipitation is never pure. It is always saturated in one or another concentration with very aggressive chemical compounds - industrial emissions, agricultural chemicals, oil waste, automobile exhaust, etc. Such substances cause surface erosion of concrete, from which it loses its strength and begins to crumble.
- Thirdly, these same chemical compounds plus dissolved in water, oxygen activates corrosion processes on the reinforcement grid. Not only does the inherent strength of the entire reinforced structure decrease, but this leads to the formation of internal cavities in the thickness of the material and eventually ends with delamination of the upper layers of concrete.
- And fourthly, we must not forget that what water has a pronounced leaching property (how not to remember the proverb - « water wears away the stone). Constant exposure to even chemically pure water is always associated with a gradual washing away of particles of the foundation material from the surface, the formation of surface shells, cavities, etc.
Water in the soil adjacent to the foundation can be in different layers and in different states:
- The upper, so-called, filtration layer is water falling out with precipitation, formed from melting snow or simply from an external spill (usage water for domestic and agricultural purposes, accidental gusts of highways, etc.). Sometimes, if a high-lying waterproof layer comes across on the path of absorption, then a fairly stable horizon - perched water - can form in a certain limited area.
The saturation of the upper filtration layer of water is always strongly dependent on the time of year, the steady weather, the amount of precipitation and is not a constant value. An important role in reducing the impact of the moisture of this layer on the foundation of the building will be played, in addition to high-quality waterproofing, by a well-thought-out storm sewer system.
- The upper layers of the soil always contain soil ( ground) moisture, which is constantly retained there due to capillarity or adhesive properties of the soil. Its concentration is quite constant and depends very little on the level of precipitation, season and etc.. It does not exert any dynamic, washing out loads on the foundation, and its negative impact is limited to capillary penetration into materials and chemical "aggression".
To counteract ground moisture, a waterproof layer of waterproofing is sufficient. True, in excessively wet areas of the area, with a tendency to waterlogging, it will be necessary to provide a drainage system for water drainage.
- Underground groundwater - upper aquifers characteristic of a particular area and its relief. The depth of their occurrence depends on the location of the water-resistant layers of the soil, and the seasonal factors strongly influence the occupancy - heavy snowmelt, prolonged rains, or, conversely, an established drought.
Elegantly, the depth of these aquifers and its seasonal fluctuations can be observed in the nearest well - a conventional or technological drainage one. In addition to direct penetration into the thickness of the foundation material, these waters can also exert hydrostatic pressure on the buried part of the structure. With a high occurrence of such layers, the maximum amount of work on waterproofing will be required with the mandatory installation of an effective drainage sewer around the building.
What types of waterproofing are used to protect the foundation
In order to prevent the negative impact of moisture on the foundation, the following types of waterproofing and other construction and installation works are used:
- Giving structural materials of additional water-repellent properties.
- Creation waterproof coatings on the vertical walls of the foundation, from its sole to the upper edge of the base.
- Reliable waterproofing of horizontal interlevel seams, preventing capillary penetration of moisture upwards.
- Reliable protection of the waterproofing itself from external mechanical influences.
- Measures to reduce negative impact negative temperatures.
- The device of the drainage system around the house.
- Creation of a reliable system for the removal of rain and melt water - a drain and storm sewer.
- Ensuring reliable ventilation of basements and basements.
In the proposed figure, as an example, a possible general scheme building foundation waterproofing:
On the diagram, the numbers are marked:
1 - the sole of the foundation, which usually rests on a compacted sand and gravel cushion. Between it and the vertical wall of the foundation (2) there must be a cut-off horizontal waterproofing (4), which overlaps with an insulating layer arranged in basement floor space (4) between the base and the screed.
The outer vertical wall has a coated waterproofing coating (5), additionally protected by a waterproof membrane (7) and covered with a layer of geotextile (8), which protects against abrasive and other mechanical impact.
The upper edge of the basement (foundation wall) is also necessarily covered with waterproofing roll material (6), on top of which further construction of the walls and ceilings of the building will be carried out.
Designed to wick away moisture drainage system– pipes (9) laid along the perimeter at the level of the base of the foundation in a gravel casing. For more reliable protection from the ingress of water from atmospheric precipitation into the depths of the soil, it is advisable to arrange a clay castle around the house (10).
In areas with a harsh climate, severe freezing of the upper layers of the soil, or in the case when it is planned to place residential or utility premises in the basement or basement, the foundation and basement waterproofing system is supplemented by their insulation system:
Scheme in in general terms repeats the one posted above, so the main numbering of parts and assemblies is preserved. In addition, it shows:
1.1 - sand and gravel pad under the footing of the foundation. This layer can also be made of lean concrete with large fractional filling.
12 - insulating panels made of extruded polystyrene foam, installed outside on top of rolled waterproofing along the entire height of the foundation and basement walls.
13 - plaster layer basement finish. Currently, instead of it, special basement thermal panels are often used - they provide both insulation and reliable cover from direct exposure to water.
14 - the wall of the building being erected. The figure clearly shows that it begins to fit necessarily from the layer of horizontal cut-off waterproofing of the foundation.
The choice of a specific type of waterproofing, and hence the materials used for it, largely depends on the specific purpose of the premises located in the basement. The existing classification (according to BS 8102 standards adopted in Europe) divides them into four classes:
- The first, lower class are auxiliary or Technical buildings not equipped with electricity. Wet spots or even small leaks are allowed in them. The wall thickness must be at least 150 mm.
- The second class also includes technical or utility rooms, but already equipped with ventilation, in which only wet evaporation is allowed, without the formation of damp spots, with a wall thickness of at least 200 mm. It is already allowed to install electrical appliances of standard mains voltage here.
- Third grade is the most common, and most of all of interest to individual developers. It includes all residential buildings, offices, retail outlets, social facilities. The thickness of the walls should not be less than 250 mm, a system of natural or forced ventilation is required. No moisture penetration is allowed.
- As a rule, you don’t have to deal with the fourth class of premises when building your own house - these are objects with a specially created microclimate - archival storages, libraries, laboratories and others, where special requirements are imposed on a constant, clearly established level of humidity.
The table below shows the recommended types of waterproofing and the materials used for its installation, indicating its degree of strength, the protection created from one or another impact of groundwater and compatibility with the classes of equipped premises:
| Type of waterproofing and materials used | crack resistance | degree of protection against water | room class | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| perch | soil moisture | ground aquifer | 1 | 2 | 3
| 4 | ||
| Modern adhesive waterproofing with the use of bituminous membranes based on polyester | high | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | No |
| Waterproofing installed using polymer waterproof membranes | high | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Coating waterproofing using polymer or bitumen-polymer mastics | average | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | No |
| Flexible coating waterproofing using polymer-cement compositions | average | Yes | No | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | No |
| Rigid coating waterproofing based on cement compositions | low | Yes | not | Yes | Yes | Yes | No | No |
| Impregnating waterproofing that increases the water repellency of concrete | low | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | No |
After viewing the table, one can make a very erroneous conclusion that, for example, for a residential building, only one type of insulation will be enough. Practice shows that this may clearly not be enough, and most often an integrated approach is used, when one type, combined with another, creates a truly reliable waterproof barrier for the foundation.
Horizontal foundation waterproofing
It is advisable to start the review with horizontal waterproofing. The fact is that it can be carried out exclusively in the process of building a building. If the vertical one can be carried out even on a fully constructed building, for example, after acquiring a finished house, then it is almost impossible to carry out the horizontal one that has been overlooked - it is always planned in advance. True, there are modern methods of injection waterproofing, but they are very expensive and still remain only a half measure aimed at minimizing previously made miscalculations.
- The first kind of waterproofing level is a compacted sand and gravel pad under the foundation soles being laid or under the poured monolithic structure.
- If it is planned to pour a concrete tie in the basement or basement, then its first layer is also carried out according to such a backfill, so that the level is equal in height to the upper edge of the laid soles or the first layer of the “tape”. Made from lean concrete. This is where the first layer of horizontal waterproofing is laid - the room is completely covered from below from the penetration of soil water. In addition, a barrier is created from the capillary rise of moisture along the walls of the future foundation.
- Waterproofing is carried out - with roofing material, the adjacent sheets of which are laid with overlaps of 100 - 150 mm with their obligatory "boiling" with the help of gas burner. If the layers of roofing material laid on the floor and on the platforms for further pouring of the foundation tape are combined, then the overlaps are increased to 250 — 300 mm.
- It is recommended to spare no expense and perform such insulation even in two layers. In this case, the stripes of the second layer should be oriented perpendicular to the first.
The second "line of defense" from the capillary spread of moisture should be organized at the point of transition of the monolithic foundation (after it has been poured) into the basement, if this is provided for by the project. The importance of this waterproofing layer is clearly demonstrated in the diagram below:
The location of the "boundaries" of the cut-off horizontal waterproofing For such waterproofing, the same roofing material is used, laid on a completely frozen and hardened concrete base, cleaned of dirt and dust and carefully primed tar mastic. The material is laid in at least two layers by gluing them together with mastic or thermal method(welding).
If the project does not provide for a separate base, and the protruding above-ground part of the monolithic foundation will play its role, then this step is understandably skipped. But in any case, exactly the same actions are taken on the upper edge of the foundation or basement, regardless of whether floor slabs are laid on this basis or walls are erected from any material.
Sometimes work on waterproofing the upper horizontal plane of the foundation is combined with similar operations on vertical walls, thereby obtaining one monolithic surface of the insulator.
Vertical waterproofing of foundation walls and plinth
Vertical waterproofing of the foundation walls is a prerequisite for long-term trouble-free operation of the building. When building a new house, it is thought out in advance. It is also carried out on houses that have been built for a long time - with clear signs that the old waterproofing clearly does not cope with its functions - there are pronounced traces of moisture penetration into the premises, or if when buying a house there is no certainty that such work was carried out earlier.
Spots like these are a clear warning sign - To carry out such waterproofing work, it will be necessary to expose the walls of the foundation to the maximum possible depth - up to its sole. During construction, this factor is usually taken into account immediately, leaving the necessary trench around the perimeter - it will be required both for waterproofing and for installing a drainage system.
- On the old building, you will have to start with earthworks. First dismantled concrete blind area around the plinth - with a puncher or manually. Then they dig a trench, deepening to the bottom of the foundation. The width of the trench can be any - the main thing is that it allows you to freely perform all the necessary actions. Usually a width of up to 1 meter is sufficient.
- The walls are carefully cleaned from the remnants of the soil, their revision is carried out.
- All loose places, delaminations, unstable areas must be unconditionally removed. The surface must be cleaned to a monolithic structure.
- If a layer of waterproofing is applied to the walls, but its functionality is doubtful, then it is also better to completely remove it.
Repair of the wall surface and their impregnating (penetrating) waterproofing
- All cracks and cracks on the surface are cut into rectangular grooves 25 × 25 mm in size along the entire length. Similar operations are carried out in places of vertical and horizontal joints of reinforced concrete blocks with the removal of the old mortar. If the foundation is block or made of bricks, the seams are cleaned to the same depth - up to 25 mm.
- As a repair composition, we can recommend a specialized waterproofing dry mortar "Penecrete", which is used in combination with a deep penetration primer "Penetron".
- "Penecrete" has a good plasticity, high adhesion to almost all building materials, and after complete solidification becomes reliable waterproofing, firmly "sealing" the seams and cracks. It is important that after filling the seams the material does not shrink.
- Penetron or other primers of similar action penetrate deep into the thickness of concrete, forming additional crystalline bonds there, which significantly strengthens the material, and firmly closing the pores, preventing capillary penetration of moisture.
The advantage of these materials is that they are applied to a wet surface, thereby reducing the time of work - during construction there is no need to wait for the concrete to dry completely.
Penekrit is prepared in the usual way - like any dry mortar, using a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle, in strict accordance with the instructions attached to it. Penetron is sold in a ready-to-use form.
- So, all cut cracks, joints and seams are first moistened with ordinary water, and then primed"penetron".
- Then, as tightly as possible, without leaving air "pockets", they are filled with a repair compound - "penecrite" to the general level of the wall.
- After setting of the repair mortar the entire surface outer wall the foundation must be moistened (you can use a hose with a spray nozzle) and covered in two layers with the same deep penetration primer.
- If possible, then then The same operations are carried out on internal walls foundation.
The created system of protection against moisture penetration is quite effective. There is even an opinion that she alone can cope with the tasks of waterproofing the foundation, and drawn even on one side of the wall. Nevertheless, it is better to use such an impregnating technology as the main one only from the inside and on the part of the foundation or base protruding above the ground. Outside, it is still worth making sure and protecting the walls in the area of their direct contact with the ground with additional waterproof layers.
Video: the use of penetrating waterproofing system "Penetrat"
Coating vertical waterproofing of the foundation
Coating waterproofing of foundation walls is perhaps the most widespread technology among private developers. It is quite simple to perform - almost everyone can carry it out, does not require excessively high material costs, and does not take much time.
For work you will need:
- Bituminous primer - it can be purchased at the store in ready-made(bituminous primers). It is easy to make it yourself - the bitumen heated to a fluid state is mixed with a solvent, which is most often used as gasoline. The weight ratio of gasoline to bitumen should be approximately 1:3 ÷ 1:4. Important - when preparing the primer, bitumen is poured into gasoline, and not vice versa. The composition should have a smooth liquid consistency, similar to ordinary paint.
Foundation waterproofing prices
Foundation waterproofing
Step-by-step instructions for waterproofing the foundation with self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material "Technoelast-Barrier (BO)"
The table below shows an illustrated step-by-step instruction for the implementation of waterproofing works on the foundation using rolled self-adhesive material on a bitumen-polymer basis "Technoelast-Barrier (BO)" of the well-known Russian manufacturer "TechnoNIKOL".
This rolled material (the standard form of production is a roll of 20 × 1 m) is designed for waterproofing concrete slab bases, floors, and plinths, with a depth of up to 3 meters from the ground surface, and the absence of high-lying groundwater. The convenience of "Technoelast-Barrier (BO)" is that its use does not require additional equipment, is not associated with "hot" processes, that is, there is no melting stage using a gas burner - work can be carried out even on a combustible base, indoors and limited spaces.
Prices for Technoelast-Barrier
TechnoNIKOL technoelast
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed. |
|---|---|
 | The material itself is a baseless structure, consisting of the top layer - a dense polymer film with the TechnoNIKOL logo printed on it, and the second layer - a bitumen-polymer viscous composite material with excellent adhesion to prepared substrates. Prior to installation of the material, this adhesive layer is covered with a special protective film substrate, which is removed immediately before laying. |
 | The adhesive bitumen-polymer layer does not need to be subjected to thermal action - the material is simply glued to the treated surface, and then straightened and rolled using wide brushes, rubber or silicone rollers, hand rollers. Of the other tools, you will need a knife for cutting the material, a tape measure, a ruler, a square - for taking measurements, marking and cutting, a roller and a brush - for pre-priming the surface. |
 | Let's start with horizontal waterproofing. As already mentioned in the article, this can be, for example, a slab foundation or a floor in a basement or basement. First of all, you need to make sure once again that there are no gross defects on the surface - potholes, cracks, sagging of the solidified solution and other serious flaws. All this must be eliminated - removed or repaired, achieving a flat surface, otherwise the selected waterproofing method may become ineffective. The rolled material must adhere tightly to the surface over its entire area. |
 | It is easy to check the evenness of the surface for waterproofing by attaching a long rule to it. |
 | Perfect evenness is not required - it is quite enough if the differences on a two-meter section are no more than 5 millimeters. |
 | In order for the primer to lay well and evenly on the surface, it must be cleaned of small debris and dust. To do this, she carefully swept ... |
 | … and ideally, it is best to clean it and completely dedust it with a powerful construction vacuum cleaner. |
 | The next step is the application of a primer, that is, a special bituminous composition - a primer. However, there are certain restrictions on the use of different primers - depending on the moisture level of the concrete surface. Residual moisture is measured using special device- moisture meter. It is clear that not everyone has such a device. Can do more simple solution- put on fully ripened concrete surface polyethylene film measuring 1000 × 1000 mm, gluing it around the perimeter with adhesive tape. If after a day there are no drops of condensate on the film, then the concrete can be considered dry, with a residual moisture content of less than 4% by weight. |
 | Under such conditions, primers "TechnoNIKOL" No. 01 and No. 03 on an organic basis can be used. |
 | If the residual moisture content of concrete exceeds 4%, then you can use the water-soluble primer "TechnoNIKOL" No. 04. But even at the same time, the humidity cannot be more than 8%, that is, the concrete must fully gain strength and mature. On the ground that has not been sustained for the entire period set for maturation, it makes no sense to carry out any waterproofing work. |
 | The primer is thickly, not particularly stinting, distributed over the surface with a roller. Normal consumption is 300÷350 ml per square meter area. |
 | It is necessary to ensure that the distribution of the primer over the surface is uniform, without "bald spots". In hard-to-reach places, especially along the line of intersections of vertical and horizontal surfaces, one cannot do without the use of a brush. |
 | It is recommended, after applying the primer, not to make a long pause before laying the main waterproofing material. The only thing you need to wait for is the complete drying of the applied soil. It is not difficult to check this - an ordinary paper napkin is pressed against the treated surface, which already seems to be dried out. If black marks remain on it, it is too early to proceed to further operations. |
 | But if the napkin remains clean after such an “experiment”, we can assume that the concrete surface is ready for basic waterproofing work |
 | A roll of waterproofing was delivered to the place of work. On a horizontal surface, you can mark a line along which the first strip of material will be laid. |
 | The outer packaging of the roll is opened and removed as unnecessary. |
 | In the next step, the roll of "Technoelast-Barrier (BO)" is rolled out along the entire length of the area to be waterproofed. At the same time, it is necessary to adjust its position, so that the spread sheet lies exactly along the intended line. Naturally, the rolling is carried out in such a way that the polymer layer with the logo is at the top, and the protective film substrate is at the bottom. |
 | After rolling, the sheet is cut in place. It is best to do this on a ruler, wielding a sharp construction knife. |
 | After trimming, the canvas spread along the entire length must be carefully, without shifting its position, rolled up from both sides to the center. It is more convenient, of course, to perform this and all further operations together, together with an assistant. |
 | In order to prevent distortions in the direction and creases of the waterproofing material itself during rolling, it is recommended to use old cardboard sleeves as coils for these purposes. |
 | Now the final laying of the material begins. To begin with, it is necessary to cut the film substrate of the material along the transverse line along the entire width of the roll. This must be done carefully, without pressing on the knife, so as not to accidentally cut through the canvas. |
 | After that, along the incision made, the substrate is separated by a narrow strip from the adhesive surface of the waterproofing, also along the entire width of the roll. |
 | Now, gradually stretching the film-substrate, the roll is finally laid from the center in one direction. The adhesive bitumen-polymer layer comes into adhesive contact with the concrete surface coated with the bitumen primer. |
 | It is more expedient to perform the work together: one worker, pulling out the film substrate, gradually unfolds the roll. The second, without delay, immediately smoothes the laid canvas, expelling possible air bubbles. The most convenient way to do this is to use a wide brush with a long handle, as shown in the illustration. Then the same operation is repeated on the other side of the center. As a result - the first sheet is laid. For the central areas of the glued web, pressing with a brush (with a well-prepared concrete surface) is sufficient. But the edges, in a strip of about 150 mm on each side, it is also desirable to roll with a heavy metal or rubber roller. |
 | When gluing the next canvas, which lies parallel to the first, the following rule is observed - the overlap must be at least 100 millimeters. The overlap strip is rolled by a roller to ensure complete sealing of the sheet joint. |
 | Of course, when laying waterproofing, they try to use whole sheets along the entire length. But sooner or later a situation arises when you have to join two strips along the end edge. There are also certain rules here. |
 | Even at the stage of “trying on” the next canvas, the necessary margin for overlap is immediately laid. |
 | The minimum width of the overlap strip should be 150 millimeters. |
 | But that's not all. If a T-shaped joint is obtained, that is, two sheets that are laid and connected along the end side are simultaneously overlapped along their long side with the previously laid sheet, it is recommended to perform one more operation. On the canvas that turns out to be in the middle (that is, it lies with the edge on the previously laid sheet, and then overlaps along the end with the next one), it is necessary to cut off the corner. |
 | The dimensions of the legs of this removed triangle correspond to the above parameters of overlapping of the sheets along the length and along the end. A rigid lining is substituted under the edge of the sheet, and the corner is cut off with a knife. |
 | After that, the final “assembly” of this connecting unit is carried out, which is then necessarily rolled with a heavy roller for reliable sealing. The cut of the middle sheet in the connection is “packed” between the top and bottom sheets, so that the tightness is fully ensured. |
 | If similar T-shaped connecting nodes come across on adjacent lanes, then the distance between them must be at least 500 millimeters. By the way, in this illustration, the very cut corner is clearly visible, covered with the upper canvas and rolled with a skating rink (shown by a red arrow). |
 | In the same order, work continues further until the entire horizontal surface requiring waterproofing is covered. The waterproofing layer itself also needs protection. If it is not supposed to be backfilled with soil (for example, this is the floor of the basement or basement floor, or monolithic slab foundation), then a reinforced concrete screed (the so-called screed without connection to the base, on a separating layer) with a thickness of at least 50 millimeters is necessarily arranged on such waterproofing. |
 | Now we turn to the vertical waterproofing of the foundation. This is usually a more complex operation, since the surface often has many plane intersections both vertically and horizontally. The work is always carried out in sections from the bottom up, that is, the upper sheets overlap the lower ones, giving a free drain for moisture (the sequence and direction are schematically shown in the illustration). But before that, it is necessary to whole line preliminary operations - surface preparation, formation of transitional fillets, priming and creation of a reinforcement belt. About everything - in order. |
 | Begin again with checking the condition of the waterproofed surface. There should be no high influxes, bumps, dips, cracks and crevices, that is, everything that can interfere with the snug fit of the Technoelast-Barrier (BO) sheets over their entire area, without leaving air voids. |
 | The requirements for level differences are the same as on a horizontal surface, that is, within 5 millimeters in a two-meter section. |
 | With vertical waterproofing of the foundation, sharp fractures from top to bottom, that is, pronounced horizontal internal angles, which can become an area of moisture accumulation, are completely unacceptable. That is, along the line of intersection of the vertical and horizontal planes, it is necessary to take measures to straighten the fracture as much as possible. This is done by laying out the so-called transitional fillets. The section and dimensions of such a fillet in cross section (at least 100 millimeters for each of the legs) are shown in the illustration. |
 | For laying out fillets, you can use the usual cement-sand mortar, for example, in a ratio of 1:3. But at the same time, you will have to wait for the complete solidification of the concrete “in full”, that is, within 4 weeks. So it is better to lay out the fillets immediately after removing the formwork from the foundation slab and discarding the soil from it. The best solution would be to use a special polymer-cement-based building mixture designed specifically for waterproofing work - it will create a reliable barrier against moisture in this vulnerable spot, and it hardens and gains strength very quickly. The composition is diluted and kneaded in accordance with the instructions attached to it. |
 | The dry mixture is poured into the required measured volume of water and mixed until fully prepared - obtaining a homogeneous plastic consistency. |
 | Then, using a conventional spatula, fillets are formed, adhering to the dimensions indicated above. |
 | The laid out fillets are left until completely dry and cured. |
 | In this illustration, it is well demonstrated that the fillets are laid out on all inside corners transition from vertical to horizontal plane. After the complete readiness of the fillets, they proceed to the next stage of work. |
 | The next step - the entire surface for waterproofing is densely covered with a primer. On large areas it will be more convenient to work with a roller. |
 | But everything difficult sections surfaces - external and internal corners and fillets, are necessarily smeared with a brush, so that there is not the slightest gap untreated with a primer. They proceed to subsequent operations after the primer has completely dried - how to check this has already been described above. |
 | This is followed by the most important stage - the creation of the so-called reinforcement belt. Its essence lies in the fact that without exception, all “problem” areas are initially pasted over with strips of material, and only then, on top of the reinforcement, will the installation of the main waterproofing layer be carried out. As already mentioned, the work is carried out from the bottom up. It often happens that work starts from an already waterproofed horizontal base. Another option - the lower part of the structure is a concrete preparation of the foundation. It will have to be pasted over with material over its entire width, while adhering to the rules that apply on horizontal surfaces (see above). The illustration, just as an example, shows a horizontal waterproofing belt 300 mm wide - it is understood that the surface of the concrete preparation of the foundation has been pasted over. In the event that such a structural element is not provided (the tape was poured directly on the sand and gravel cushion), then the task is simplified. In our example, probably the most complex option is shown, with two fractures of the waterproofed surface at different levels. |
 | When creating reinforcement on any of the fillets, a web of such a width is cut out so that both above, on the vertical plane, and below, on the horizontal, there is a strip with a width of at least 100 mm. |
 | As a rule, all elements are cut and tried on by hand, directly at the place of future installation. After fitting, the fragment is immediately glued to the specified area. |
 | The scheme of actions is simple: the protective substrate is removed sequentially from the cut-out fragment, as it is glued. Any glued element of the reinforcement belt is immediately rolled with a rubber or silicone roller. |
 | Further, the illustrations show some methods for gluing waterproofing on various parts of the reinforcement belt. The strip is glued to the outer vertical corner. The same rule is observed - when moving to different planes, the minimum strip width on each of them should be 100 mm. |
 | "Sole" of the outer corner. |
 | The inner vertical corner is pasted over. Naturally, work on creating reinforcement from below should already be completed. |
 | The upper protruding part of the strip, covering the inner corner, is cut in two, and the "petals" are parted to the sides. |
 | The gap remaining between them is sealed from above with a small square fragment of waterproofing. |
 | Observing the basic rules, all “problem” areas are pasted with waterproofing. Of course, a certain ingenuity will be required, making decisions applicable to the specific conditions of the work. In this example, the finished reinforcement belt looks like this. |
 | After that, they proceed to the sticker of the main layer of waterproofing. It is recommended to follow the rule - no glued canvas should have more than one change of direction, otherwise it may be deformed with the appearance of voids. The work is carried out according to the same principle - from the lower sections to the upper ones: they try on, cut, and then - the final gluing of the fragment. The overlap on the end part of any fragments should be, as with horizontal waterproofing, at least 150 mm, on the side - 100 mm. |
 | With all this, the lines of vertical joints at adjacent levels must be spaced at a distance of at least 300 mm. |
 | The illustrations below will show examples of gluing the main waterproofing. The sheet is fitted and cut to close the horizontal “step” and the foundation slab located below the vertical wall. |
 | In contrast to the technology of gluing waterproofing by fusing, in this case, each of the canvases will be attached after trying on from top to bottom. In the upper part, the protective substrate is removed, and the canvas is fixed on the surface. |
 | For reliable fixation, the upper part can be immediately rolled with a roller. |
 | Then, carefully sequentially removing the protective film, the rest of the cut fragment is pasted. |
 | They go to the next section of the same level - and continue in the same sequence. |
 | In areas of a large overlap of sheets at the bottom at the inner corners, the top sheet is trimmed diagonally, as shown in the illustration. |
 | Then this assembly is sized, followed by roller rolling. |
 | After the completion of work at this level, they move higher - to a vertical straight section of the foundation tape. Waterproofing is carried out in compliance with all the same rules and technological methods. |
 | The glued sheets of waterproofing must be fixed along the upper edge. For this, an aluminum fixing profile is used, which is attached to the foundation strip with dowels through the holes on it. There is a bend on the profile - it should be located on top in the direction from the wall. |
 | The profile is tried on, cut to the desired size, then holes are drilled in the wall, dowels are hammered and screwed in. Two dowels are placed along the edges of the profile, that is, in the first two holes in a row. Further installation goes in increments through one hole. |
 | If it is necessary to join two profiles, then a compensation gap of the order of 8 ÷ 10 mm must be left between them. |
 | After all the planks along the perimeter of the foundation are fixed, the gap between the bent edge and the profile wall is tightly filled with a polyurethane sealant using a construction syringe. |
 | As a result, a completely waterproofed surface of the strip foundation looks like this. However, it must be protected from mechanical damage during backfilling. |
 | Extruded polystyrene foam boards can be used for this. It is rigid and strong enough to withstand mechanical stress, and the foundation tape, among other things, also receives good insulation. |
 | Another option, when insulation is not required, is the use of a special profiled membrane "PLANTER - standard". It is distinguished by high strength, elasticity, and embossed "bosses" provide the necessary damping effect when backfilling the soil. |
 | This membrane is attached to the vertical surface of the foundation strip just before backfilling the excavation. At the same time, its relief protrusions should be turned towards the waterproofed surface. On this, the work on waterproofing the strip foundation can be considered completed. |
There are other ways to waterproof the walls of the foundation - cement-polymer plasters or coating compositions, solid polymer membranes, bentonite mats, similar in principle to the "clay castle", fusing. However, in the conditions of individual construction, those mentioned in the publication are more often used.
Video: foundation waterproofing by fusing roll materials
And the last thing - the waterproofing of the foundation will be effective only in those conditions when thoughtful storm and melt water is provided - drains from the roof, low tides on the basement, ground or underground storm water inlets and drainage channels, etc. If water has direct access under the walls of the building, then sooner or later it will “do its job” and the reliability of the waterproofing of the foundation will be compromised.
There is a not entirely correct opinion that during the operation of the foundation, no changes affect it. It does not rot, decay or rust. On the one hand, this is true, but all this is possible thanks to the high-quality protection of the foundation. What is included in such protection? Waterproofing.
It's no secret how liquid can negatively affect concrete. Without waterproofing, the plinth will collapse, which reduces the life of the entire house. Yes, and groundwater can also harm the foundation. This article is devoted to the issue of waterproofing a strip foundation. You can do all the work yourself. We will consider suitable materials and technology for working with them. And thanks to the comparison, you can make a choice.
Coating material
A fairly common material for waterproofing. The work is quite simple, according to the principle of applying paint. It is enough to apply the material to the waterproofing tape, completely covering the surface of the finished foundation with it. As a coating waterproofing, all kinds of bituminous mastics are used, in cold or hot form, liquid glass, etc.
Material advantages:
- Low cost.
- Excellent elasticity.
- No seams.
- High hydrophobicity after coating.
- Ease of work. No complicated equipment is required, as well as professional skills.
- High level of adhesion to the concrete surface.
Material disadvantages: Short service life. After 6 years, the applied mastic will become brittle and inelastic. Cracks form on the surface through which water can seep. Solution - repair work and re-coating with a layer of mastic.
Due to the cheapness, once every 7-8 years it is possible to make repairs. But, there is another solution - materials with inclusions of such components as polymers, rubber and latex. Thanks to them, adhesion improves, the level of elasticity becomes even higher, and the period is extended.
The matter is quite simple. To begin with, preparatory work is carried out: the surface of the foundation is cleaned of debris, dust, dirt, etc. Then the foundation must be treated with a deep penetration primer to ensure better adhesion. After waiting for drying, it remains to apply waterproofing to the foundation, leaving no untreated places. You can apply the mixture with a paint brush - maklovitsa.
Additionally, watch the video, which shows the waterproofing of the strip foundation with your own hands.
roll material
Another inexpensive option which is widely used in construction. A clear representative is roofing material, which is used for waterproofing strip foundations. In addition, you can choose from aquaizol, isoelast and other roll building materials.
They are widely used in construction, ranging from foundation and roofing works, ending with the device of pools and pavement. They are suitable for protecting concrete from high groundwater pressure. If the house is without a basement, then the strip foundation is waterproofed horizontally and vertically.
There are several types of rolled waterproofing materials:
- gluing, which are fixed to the foundation surface with bituminous mastic or other composition with adhesive characteristics. Some materials have a self-adhesive layer, which is very convenient;
- surfacing, applied by fusing to the surface. The burner heats up the layer, which becomes sticky when heated.
Material advantages:
- Ease of installation.
- Long service life.
- Excellent water repellency.
- They have high mechanical strength.
- Reliability.
Foundation coating technology
- Surface preparation: clean, dry, even.
- Applying bituminous mastic to the surface (if it is self-adhesive or welded material, then the roll is immediately glued to the base).
- Ruberoid or other material is glued onto the prepared base.
- It is important to make an overlap at the joints equal to 15 cm. “Solder” the joints with a gas burner.
Spray material
Considered innovative technology. The peculiarity is that it successfully performs all the functions and stated requirements. You can use the method for any type of foundation. You can not only do work from scratch, but also repair the old waterproofing coating. Used for both foundation and roofing work.
Material advantages:
- Long service life.
- Ease of work.
- No seams.
- Hardens quickly.
- Non-toxic and safe for health.
- Resistant to UV rays.
- Elastic.
There are a lot of advantages, and only two drawbacks - the cost and technological equipment for work.
Foundation coating technology
- Surface cleaning.
- Applying the material with a special sprayer using a seamless method.
- Surface reinforcement with geotextiles.
penetrating material
It is considered the most effective and expensive way to waterproof a strip foundation. Usually a penetrating mixture is made on the basis of cement, special additives and quartz sand. According to the principle of application, the process resembles plaster walls. But, you can also purchase material applied by spraying or smearing. After application, crystals are created in the concrete voids that repel the liquid, preventing it from penetrating inside.
Material advantages:
- Versatility and ease of application.
- High quality waterproofing.
- Durability.
- No seams.
- Health safety.
The technology of applying penetrating waterproofing to the foundation is described in this video.
Some features of base waterproofing
It is logical that it is better to protect the base from liquid even at the stage of its construction. Then it's much easier to do it. If, for some reason, there is no waterproofing, and the building is already standing, or you just need to make repairs, then the process is not easy. You will have to dig the foundation, but do the work in stages so as not to disturb the structure. Start working from the corners of the building, finish with the walls of the foundation.
Advice! If we talk about the material itself, then ideally combine vertical and horizontal insulation (when the first layer is applied in a vertical position, and the second in a horizontal position).
After the foundation is dug out, you need to clean it from the soil (you should not use water). A brush will come in handy. The surface must be perfectly clean, without inclusions. All pits, cracks and seams are filled with cement mortar and bitumen. Now you can perform waterproofing in your chosen way. So, you can protect your foundation from negative impact water.
After completing all the work, the base is buried back. It is important that everything is dry before then.
Conclusion
Waterproofing the foundation with your own hands is a very real goal. If you follow these instructions and carefully follow the process, then you will succeed! Do not be afraid to take on such work, although it is responsible, it is not fearful.
The construction of the foundation is the first and most important stage in the construction of any building, so each phase of its construction has great importance. And if no one will argue with the fact that it is impossible to save on strengthening the foundation, then opinions on the issue of its waterproofing are not so unambiguous. Some mistakenly believe that waterproofing the foundation is more desirable than mandatory. This is not true. The lack of water protection can have an extremely negative impact on the strength of the foundation. What types of waterproofing are used for various kinds foundation and how to do it right with your own hands, we will tell you in this article.
Why is foundation waterproofing necessary?
Before proceeding to review various types waterproofing, it is important to understand why it is so necessary.
The foundation is exposed to moisture from all sides: from the inside it is moistened by soil and wastewater, and from the outside - precipitation and melting snow.
The main material from which the foundation is made, namely concrete, is not afraid of moisture in itself. But it is not a waterproofing material either, therefore, moisture can both get inside the concrete and seep through it.
This is fraught with two unpleasant consequences: firstly, under the influence of moisture, the reinforcement inside the concrete can corrode and rust, which will lead to a weakening of the entire structure. Secondly, moisture, penetrating through the foundation into the structure, can become fertile ground for the formation of various fungi and microorganisms.
It is these two problems that the waterproofing of the foundation is designed to solve.
High-quality waterproofing of the foundation is the key to the reliability and durability of the building
General rules
For the installation of high-quality waterproofing, it is necessary to know not only the basic requirements for its installation, but also the features of each specific place where construction is underway.
- The foundation must be reliably protected from groundwater. If their level is above the level of the foundation, then in addition to waterproofing, it is necessary to build a drainage system.
- The blind area performs the function of protecting the foundation from external moisture.
- When installing waterproofing, it is imperative to take into account the composition of local groundwater.
For example, upon detection of construction site so-called aggressive waters, it will be necessary to use appropriate materials for waterproofing.
- You should take care not only of the foundation itself, but also of the walls in the basement and on the basement floor.
Features in the process of building a house
The most correct solution would be a waterproofing device during the construction of the foundation.
In this case, it becomes possible to protect the foundation tape not only on the sides and top, but also from below, which will be practically impossible after the foundation has already been laid.
The main feature of the waterproofing of the foundation during construction is the construction of the lower waterproofing layer, which takes on the “main blow” when protecting the structure from groundwater.
There are several technologies for creating lower waterproofing - a pillow of sand and gravel and a layer of insulating material directly.
The structure of the waterproofing pad resembles a layered cake.
As for the processing of the walls and the upper part of the foundation, any of the technologies that we will talk about can be applied during construction.
Foundation waterproofing
If waterproofing work was not carried out during the laying of the foundation, this significantly complicates the task and does not make it possible to protect the structure in full.
Waterproofing the finished foundation begins with the preparation of a trench around the entire perimeter. If this is not done, only the outer part of the tape can be processed, which will significantly reduce the protective properties of the structure.
Without preliminary excavation of the trench, waterproofing the finished foundation is almost impossible.
The depth of the trench must be at least 50 centimeters, otherwise the waterproofing of the grounded part of the foundation will be ineffective.
The surface of the foundation is checked for chips and cracks. If found, they should be repaired with a mortar, after which a layer of plaster should be applied over the entire surface of the foundation. When the plaster has dried, the selected waterproofing material is applied to it. And after the waterproofing layer has dried, the trench is buried and a blind area is arranged on top of it.
Kinds
According to its purpose, foundation waterproofing is divided into two types: anti-filtration and anti-corrosion.
Anti-filtration
Anti-filtration waterproofing is used where there are "aggressive" waters or the level of groundwater pressure on the foundation tape is high enough. For the device of this type of waterproofing, it is necessary to carefully study the characteristics of the soil and the composition of groundwater. In addition, such insulation requires complex design, so it is better to invite specialists specializing in this type of work for its installation.
anti-corrosion
Anti-corrosion waterproofing - the most common type of foundation waterproofing
Anti-corrosion waterproofing is the most common type of moisture protection that can be easily done by hand. Such waterproofing can be applied different ways: pasting, painting, impregnation and other methods.
Depending on the type of location, there are two types of anti-corrosion waterproofing: horizontal and vertical.
Horizontal
Horizontal waterproofing serves as protection against moisture penetration into the building itself
Designed to protect the walls of the foundation from capillary absorption. As a rule, two, independent of each other, horizontal insulation systems are created: the first under the basement floor and the second - on top of the foundation slabs at the main anchor points.
vertical
The main task of vertical waterproofing is to protect the foundation from groundwater
It is located from the base of the foundation to the level of rainwater spray. The method of application and the thickness of such waterproofing are determined even before the foundation is built.
Water-repellent materials
Modern foundation waterproofing can be done using various materials.
Consider the most popular of them.
Bituminous mastic or, as it is also called, bituminous resin, is the most common and cheap material for waterproofing. The technology of applying mastic is referred to as coating methods of waterproofing. 7 parts of resin and 3 parts of used engine oil are placed in a large metal container. A fire is made under the container and the mixture is heated until a homogeneous mass is formed. After that, using a brush or roller, the solution is applied to the surface of the foundation.
The method of applying bituminous mastic practically does not differ from conventional painting.
Please note that hot resin can cause severe burns! When working, be sure to follow the safety regulations!
Hot mastic not only covers the foundation from above, but also penetrates into the pores of concrete, providing a fairly good level of protection against moisture.
Roll materials
This category includes several types of materials. All of them are a base that can be rolled up (hence the name), with a waterproofing layer applied to it. Roll materials can be used both independently and in combination with other water-repellent agents.
The most common of rolled materials is roofing material. It is quite easy to use and has a relatively low cost. To fix the roofing material on the walls of the foundation, it is enough to heat it up and apply it to the surface of the tape.
The most reliable way of laying roofing material is fusing
Roll materials can also include rubitex, technoelast, stekloizol, hydrostekloizol and others. Unlike roofing material, which is based on building cardboard, these materials are made on the basis of polyester, which significantly improves their quality, but at the same time makes them more expensive.
This material is very easy to apply to any surface with a roller or brush. It has excellent water-repellent properties and, importantly, is completely non-flammable. Besides, liquid rubber allows you to make the waterproofing layer seamless, which undoubtedly improves the performance of the coating.
Liquid rubber is applied with a spray gun
Plaster and screen insulation
Such compositions allow you to simultaneously level the surface and make it moisture resistant. The principle of working with plaster waterproofing is practically the same as the process of applying ordinary plaster.
The application of plaster waterproofing is practically no different from the application of ordinary plaster.
The only difference is that the screen insulation contains water-repellent components such as hydro concrete, polymer concrete and asphalt mastics.
Modern waterproofing material, which can be attributed to the roll. True, unlike them, mats on both sides have a base of polypropylene geotextile material. Between the layers of the base there is a layer of special granules. Upon contact with water, the granules swell, forming a dense water-repellent gel.
Between two protective layers of granules, which, after contact with water, turn into a water-repellent gel
Photo gallery: materials for waterproofing
Foundation with finished waterproofing from bentonite mats 
One of the most common waterproofing materials is bituminous mastic. 
Liquid rubber is sold in the same cans as bituminous mastic.
After application, liquid rubber forms a continuous waterproof layer. 
Roll waterproofing based on polyester 
Versatile material suitable for both horizontal and vertical waterproofing 
One of the most reliable and durable types of waterproofing is concrete mats. 
Plaster waterproofing can be applied both with a spatula and with a regular brush.
Material Comparison
In order to make it easier for you to compare all the "pros" and "cons" of various materials, we have combined them into a table.
Table "Characteristics of materials for waterproofing"
| Material | Advantages | disadvantages | Price |
Suitable for any type of foundation. Possibility to completely apply waterproofing alone. | The coating lasts no more than five years. | One of the cheapest waterproofing options. | |
| Roll waterproofing | Universal material suitable for both horizontal and vertical waterproofing. | The need for preliminary surface preparation. | A wide price range - from low (roofing felt) to high (technoelast, stekloizol). |
| Reliable waterproofing material with a long service life. | Quite a complex application technology. The need for preparatory work. | Average price category. | |
| plaster insulation | The possibility of not preparing the surface. | The need to use an additional layer of waterproofing. | Medium category, but due to savings on preparatory work can be classified as low. |
| One of the most reliable and durable materials. | Hardly ever. | High price category. |
Do-it-yourself waterproofing of various types of foundation
Monolithic (slab) foundation
Monolithic foundation with ready-made vertical waterproofing, made by coating method
Monolithic building in last years becomes the most popular, therefore, we will begin to consider waterproofing technologies with a monolithic foundation. Since the method of waterproofing this foundation is practically the same as protecting the slab foundation, we will combine them into one section. The only difference is that components can be added to the monolithic foundation at the pouring stage to increase its water-repellent properties.
Waterproofing of a monolithic foundation begins with a "cushion". Which, as a rule, is made of bulk material (sand, gravel or crushed stone), covered with a water-repellent layer. The walls and top of the foundation can be protected by both rolled and coated waterproofing material.
It is more preferable to use a coating material, since it, penetrating into the pores of concrete, provides a higher level of protection of the foundation from moisture.
If waterproofing is carried out with rolled materials, then they must be laid in at least two layers, with an overlap of 10-15 centimeters.
When waterproofing a prefabricated foundation, special attention should be paid to joints and seams
Moisture protection of the strip foundation has a number of features. It can also be performed using both coating and roll materials. At the same time, one should not forget about the waterproofing of the ends of the slabs, as well as the fact that before applying the waterproofing material, it is necessary to carefully seal all the joints between the slabs and the recesses and irregularities that appeared during laying.
Sealing is mandatory in all cases, except when stucco waterproofing is used as the first water-repellent layer.
Column Foundation
In this case, the coating method of waterproofing was used.
It is a series of supports located at the corners of the walls of the building, as well as at the points of their intersection.
The waterproofing of a columnar foundation is sufficient difficult process. For this purpose, it is best to use a combined bulk and coating type waterproofing. That is, during pouring into the foundation formwork, special water-repellent mixtures should be poured, and after hardening, treat the surface of the piles with coating mastic.
When choosing a mastic, it is worth giving preference to a material with a penetrating effect.
Video: installation and waterproofing of a columnar foundation
When waterproofing the foundation of the bath, special attention is paid to the horizontal layer
Waterproofing the foundation of the bath requires a special approach. Firstly, when laying it, it is desirable to lay at least three layers of roofing material or other roll material, and secondly, do not forget about the high-quality waterproofing of the lower log of the log house. For this purpose, you can use special mastics and antiseptics, but they must be applied at least twice as thick as when building an ordinary wooden house.
Waterproofing the foundation is a rather complicated and costly process. But in no case should you save on it, because in this case you risk not only getting an “unhealthy” atmosphere in your home, but also jeopardizing its reliability. Good luck with your repair!
Born in 1977 in Donetsk, Ukraine. Graduated from the Donetsk Polytechnic Institute (now DonSTU) with a degree in Automated Control Systems. He worked at the Donetsk Metallurgical Plant. In 1997 he moved to Moscow, where for 8 years he worked in several construction teams.