How to fold the heating stove yourself. How to fold a simple brick oven with your own hands. Simple Garden Barbecue Oven

Despite the fact that many today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen are developing more and more new models of furnaces, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private house, as it can help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems to be too early to turn on heating system, a heated stove will create in the rooms cozy environment and rid them of excess moisture. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere in the house and a temperature balance that is comfortable for a person.

Therefore, a search query on how to fold the oven with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell you in detail about the correct sequence masonry work, does not leave the pages of the Internet. Today, even those people who have no experience as a stove-maker at all are showing a desire to try their hand at this craft. If the decision is made to install a stove in the house on their own, then beginners are recommended to choose a simple version of this structure with a clear order.

In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, what area it is designed to heat. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what you would like to get from it.

Varieties of brick ovens

There are several main types of stoves - some of them perform only one main task - this is home heating, others are used only for cooking, and still others include several functions at once in their "feature set". Therefore, in order to determine the desired model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.

• the structure can not only heat one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry fruits and vegetables for the winter.

The heating and cooking stove is often built into the wall or acts as a wall itself - for this it is turned with a stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and with the back wall into the living area of ​​​​the house. You can solve two problems at once - heating the premises and getting the opportunity to cook in a separate room.

If the design is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also become a decorative decoration of the house.

• The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both active at the same time. Most often heating furnaces built into the wall between rooms or installed in the middle of one large hall, dividing it into zones.

A similar structure is being built both for the main heating of the house, and as an additional one, which is used in the spring and autumn to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. Heating stoves are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its ability to cook, or in a large house in terms of total area, where several stoves are being built that perform different functions.

On the suburban area in a small house it is better to install a multifunctional building that can help out in several situations at once.

• The cooking oven is being built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for fast cooking food. However, this function does not deprive it of heating capabilities, since its entire body, back wall and cast-iron stove warm up well, giving off heat to the room.

The main function of this stove is cooking

The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea even if the electricity and gas supply is turned off.

A lot has been developed various models all listed types of furnaces. They can be quite miniature, and occupy a large area. Therefore, having settled on one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. Thus, it will be possible to visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the oven?

In order for the stove to work efficiently and give off heat as much as possible to the premises of the house, and also be fireproof, you need to choose the right location for it.

It is especially important to think about this point if the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney must pass between the ceiling beams and not accidentally stumble upon them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

The oven brick structure can be installed in different places of the room or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed later.

• To get the most out of the oven, do not place it near outer wall buildings, as it will cool quickly and is unlikely to be able to heat more than one room.
• Some models of stoves are installed in the center of the room or offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides furnace building may have a different decorative finish, made in a style that matches the design of a particular area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.
• Quite often, the stove is built into the wall between two or even three rooms, which makes it possible to use the generated heat as efficiently as possible. In this case, for the purpose of fire safety, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of walls, ceiling and attic floor in the place of passage.
• When choosing the installation site, it is also necessary to provide for the fact that each side of the foundation for the furnace must be 100 ÷ 150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
• In order to accurately determine the size of the base and the height of the oven, it is recommended that you always select the model to which the ordering diagram is attached.

By choosing and a place for its installation, you can purchase everything necessary materials and prepare the right tools. The quantity of materials will depend on the size and functional features oven models, and masonry tools are always the same.

Tools needed for masonry work

To work, you will need to prepare a very “solid” set of tools

Of the tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation, you will need:

• Rule - this tool is used to level the surface of the foundation poured with concrete.
• A pickaxe is needed for splitting and hewing bricks.
• Veselka - a wooden spatula that is used for grinding clay and lime mortar.
• The furnace hammer is used to split the brick and remove the dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.
• A whisk made of bast is intended for cleaning the internal channels of the furnace from sand and mortar that have entered them.
• Lead scriber is needed for markings if the stove is finished with tiles.
• The building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
• Scriber - a rod used for markings.
• A plumb line is a cord with a load, designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
• Construction corner with a ruler to check the correctness of the external and internal corners, as they must be perfectly straight.
• Pliers are used to bend and cut off the wire to fix the cast-iron elements of the furnace in the masonry joints.
• Rasp - This tool is used to remove sagging and lapping lumps in dried masonry.
• The chisel is used for splitting bricks and parsing old masonry.
• A rubber mallet is needed to level the brick laid on the mortar by tapping.
• (trowels) of different sizes are used to apply mortar when laying bricks and remove the mixture that has come out of the seams.
• Jointing - a tool for leveling the mortar in the seams of the masonry. It is used in the event that the masonry is made "for jointing", without further cladding.
• A manual rammer will be required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
• Containers for mixing mortar and clean water.
• Sieve with metal mesh for sifting sand.

• Stand for the convenience of working at height, called "goats". The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for the comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with a solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove

The foundation for the furnace is usually prepared together with the foundation of the house, but they should not be in contact with each other, and even more so, be combined into a single structure. New foundations tend to shrink, which can lead to deformation of one of them, and this will cause damage to the other. That is why they must be installed separately from each other.

In the case of building a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do a fairly large-scale work. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the chosen furnace model is not too massive, then the structure can also be erected on it, having previously laid waterproofing material at the installation site.

The foundation must have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its sides is made larger than the side of the furnace by 100 ÷ 150 mm.

• If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it, along which the boards will be cut.
• Then, in the soil of the subfloor, a pit is dug in the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
• The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined with plastic wrap or roofing material.

• Then, a sand cushion with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm is laid out at the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and is well compacted using a manual rammer.
• The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with gravel, which, if possible, is also compacted. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
• Further, along the perimeter of the pit, a wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing material remains inside it, and then fixed to the walls with a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will retain the solution poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from escaping from it, which will allow the slab to dry and harden evenly.
• The foundation should be approximately 250 mm below the level of the “clean” floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be laid on the finished base so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
• Some craftsmen, in order to save bricks, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80 ÷ 100 mm. The convenience of this solution also lies in the simpler docking of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
• The next step in the formwork, at its entire height, is a reinforcing grate made of steel reinforcement with a thickness of 4 ÷ 6 mm. The rods are connected to each other by wire twists.
• Further, in the lower part of the formwork, to a thickness of 250 ÷ 300 mm, you can pour a rough concrete mortar mixed with cement and gravel in proportions of 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of an average fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can use a conventional concrete mortar of sand and cement.
• If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a finely mixed solution is laid out on top.
• The flooded one is leveled by the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and drown a reinforcing mesh with 50 mm cells into the solution by 15 ÷ 20 mm.

• The surface of the foundation is again leveled, and if necessary, a concrete solution is added to the formwork on top of the grid.
• Further, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured mortar. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day during the first week, starting from the second day.
• On top of the frozen foundation, waterproofing is laid, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are stacked one on top of the other.

• To start laying the first row, it is recommended to make markings on the waterproofing material, indicating the location of the furnace base. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and keep the sides and corners even.

After these preparatory work, you can proceed to masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced craftsmen, starting the laying of a previously unfamiliar design, first produce it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the furnace and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The whole building rises dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the furnace model.

When performing dry laying, it is necessary to observe the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows. In order for this parameter to be maintained the same throughout the entire masonry, slats 5 mm thick can be used. Of course, it will be difficult to measure vertical seams with small pieces of laths when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, laths must be used. Applying them, after laying out last row design, you can see the actual height of the furnace.

As an example of the use of rails, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a single thickness of the seams if the masonry is made for jointing, and will not be further finished with additional decorative materials.

When laying dry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the furnace and rise to the chimney. If a mistake is made when laying out this passage, then it will be necessary to shift part or even the entire structure of the furnace, since a reverse draft may form, and the room will smoke during kindling.

Having lifted the stove dry before laying the chimney pipe, the structure is dismantled. Moreover, if not only whole ones, but also their small fragments were used in the rows, then when disassembling each of the rows can be folded in a separate pile, putting the row number on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick in each of the rows is also affixed. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be adjusted and laid out in the right order, and all that remains is to soak it in turn and lay it in the rows of the oven, but already on the solution.

Performing the main masonry, two slats are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution with a thickness of 60 ÷ 70 mm is applied. Then a brick of the upper row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests on the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it can only be pulled out of the seam after the mortar has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam, cleaned and laid on the fourth - and so on. If there is no certainty that the vertical seams will be of the same thickness, a short rail can also be prepared for them, which will be rearranged into the next seam immediately after the alignment of two adjacent bricks.

After pulling the calibration rails out of the seam, a sufficiently deep gap will remain between the bricks. It is filled with mortar, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order with the help of jointing.

Processing of seams "under jointing"

If the calibration rails were laid on both edges of the brick, then recesses between the seams will also remain on the inside of the wall. They also need to be carefully sealed, since the seams must be sealed, filled with mortar over the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, when laying on the mortar, to check each of the laid rows building level to prevent distortion of the entire structure.

Simple aids such as sizing bars will help you lay neatly with even joint widths. Therefore, the entire surface of the furnace will look as if the design was made by a professional master.

These nuances will help simplify the process of building a furnace structure, avoid mistakes that may lead to the need to redo all the work.

Schemes for the construction of brick kilns

Furnace Yu. Proskurin with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber

The model developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking stoves, which even a novice master can quite master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is able to fulfill everything necessary for small house functions, as it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a hot water tank.

Such a stove is able to heat one or two rooms. with total area 17÷20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the smaller rooms in the house. At the same time, it, of course, must be oriented in such a way that the structure is turned by the plate towards the kitchen room.

The dimensions of this heating structure, without the height of the chimney, are 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. The stove has two modes of operation - winter and summer, which allows you to use only the hob in the warm season, without unnecessary heating of the whole house. The heat transfer from the furnace with its full heating is 1700 kcal / h.

For the construction of this heating structure, the following materials will be required:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (piece)	Element dimensions (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying)	281÷285	250×120×65
Fireclay bricks refractory grade Sh-8	82÷85	250×120×65
Furnace door	1	210×250
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140×140
Blower door	1	140×250
Summer damper for chimney	1	130×130
Firebox valve	1	130×130
Stove valve	1	130×130
grate	1	200×300
Single burner hob	1	410×340
steel strip	1	40×260×5
	1	40×350×5
	1	40×360×5
steel corner	1	40×40×635
	3	40×40×510
	4	40×40×350
roofing iron	1	380×310
Pre-furnace metal sheet	1	500×700

To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing material, reinforcing bar or steel wire 5 ÷ 6 mm thick. If it is decided to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, then you will have to purchase or manufacture it as well.

In order for the work to be successful, it is strongly recommended that you carefully study the order before starting it, and keep this scheme always at hand during the masonry process.

In this illustration, this furnace is schematically represented in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels pass inside the structure, trace the movement of smoke from the furnace to the chimney.

Illustration (order)	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first row is solid, it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row must be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its correct laying. The row consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ashpit (blowing chamber) and the bottom of the two channels are laid, which will run vertically. Laying out a row, leave openings for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. On the same row they are installed. A row is laid out of 13 bricks.
	In cast iron doors, for their fixing in the masonry, special ears are provided into which prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Further, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. To prevent the door from moving from the installation site until it is completely fixed, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the scheme. The walls of the blower and cleaning chamber rise in it, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. To lay a row, you will need 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since further they will be laid out separately. The cross section of the channels along their entire height will be 80 × 120 mm. In addition, in this row, the installed doors overlap. It is necessary to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The laying of the fifth row is made with refractory fireclay bricks, since the formation of the lower part of the furnace takes place. In the bricks that determine the place of laying the grate, from their inner edge, a cut is made at a right angle. The size of the cutout should be approximately 10×10 mm ± 1 mm. Prepared bricks are laid over the blower chamber. For laying a row, 16 fireclay bricks are required.
	After that, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on clay mortar, but often without mortar at all. In the latter case, the gaps between the grate and the brick, which should be on the order of 3÷5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the furnace begin to be erected. Masonry is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks.
	Further, on the sixth row, a furnace door is mounted, which, like the blower door, is fixed with a wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the furnace door is equipped not only with wire fasteners, but is also wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap, which will allow the metal to expand when it is strongly heated.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out of 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering scheme. During their laying, the walls of the firebox continue to rise and vertical channels form. It is clear that the laying of bricks in the rows is tied up.
	When laying the ninth row, the door of the combustion chamber is closed. To relieve the load from the cast-iron door, from the bricks installed on the side walls, the edges turned towards the combustion chamber are cut off at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of stand for the middle brick, cut from both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two extreme bricks. A row will require 12 fireclay bricks.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the extreme vertical channel, since the smoke formed in the furnace was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth running of hot air, a protruding corner is cut on the middle brick separating the furnace hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry going around the combustion chamber is different in that it uses bricks with a cut to the depth of the brick by 10 × 20 mm. This step is designed for laying hob. For masonry, you will need 11 fireclay bricks.
	After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is laid with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3 ÷ 4 mm thick (assuming the thickness of the hob is 5 mm). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, a hob is installed on the place prepared for it. From the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, masonry will be made only with red brick. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously opened vertical channel is again closed with a jumper. For laying this row, you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the scheme, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer. To do this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Further, on the prepared place, on the clay-sand mortar, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed. A row is laid out of 10 bricks.
	14th ÷ 18th rows - each of them will require 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is covered with three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the "ceiling" of the cooking chamber, the second turns to the first and is installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (brick size), and the third corner is pressed against the second with the back side. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid.
	19th row. Laying it out, the cooking chamber is covered with 12 bricks, but a steam exhaust hole is formed above it, into which the valve will be installed. To mount this element, cutouts are made in the edges of the bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is fixed to the prepared site on the clay solution.
	The 20th row is laid out according to the presented scheme. At this stage, the installed valve is closed, and channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is crimped for a smooth flow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the hole for removing steam from the cooking chamber are combined into a common space. The laying is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is also framed. Moreover, the corner inner brick is cut off to ensure smooth steam escape into the chimney. For laying, you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Further, on the same row, the resulting space is covered with steel strips, which will provide the basis for installing a metal plate and laying the next rows.
	The next step, which is carried out on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With the help of it, a chimney opening is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam to escape from the hob.
	On the 22nd row, a metal plate is covered with brickwork. Further laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the openings of the channels remain open. Then, a metal corner is installed on the outside of the oven, which will strengthen the front part of the bottom of the drying chamber. 15 bricks are required for laying a row.
	23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed on its side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney channel. 12 bricks are used.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed.
	25th row - work continues according to the scheme, masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the rear wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, therefore, in order to direct the smoke in the right direction, the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle. For laying a row, 11 bricks are required.
	On the 27th row, with the help of masonry, two vertical channels are combined, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The rear wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. The row consists of 11 bricks.
	On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, laying is carried out according to a scheme similar to the 27th row. And then three metal corners overlap the space of the drying chamber.
	On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is mounted in accordance with the scheme. Only the hole above the drying chamber is left open, where the valve will be installed into the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut off, making its thickness smaller. A valve is installed in the equipped "nest" on the clay solution. The row consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the furnace. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half a brick.
	On the 31 ÷ 32nd rows, a chimney begins to form.

If it is decided to do it yourself, then the work should be carried out slowly, approaching each stage of the process with all responsibility and maximum accuracy. Subject to following all the recommendations and the provided ordering scheme, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.

And at the end of the article - another example of a miniature masonry brick oven for country house.

Video: compact brick oven for a small kitchen

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The good old brick oven does not give up its position under the onslaught of modern highly efficient competitors. Controversy - why? - do not count, but in fact there is only one reason: the brick stove breathes. Stone, by the way, no.

What does it mean to breathe? When heated, the microporous body of the furnace emits moisture vapor into the air of the heated room, and when it cools, it absorbs them. As a result, the brick oven supports the so-called. the dew point in the room within the optimal limits from the point of view of physiology. When they say that a brick oven is “healthier” than any other, then, knowingly or not, this factor is meant.

Apart from beneficial influence on health, the breathing of the furnace gives another important consequence: in the medical and thermal calculation of the house lower limits the temperature in it can be reduced to 18 degrees for comfort and up to 20 degrees for medicine, because. relative humidity during the heating season will be close to optimal. In wooden and brick buildings, it can give super-economy: at 16-17 degrees in them, over 80% of physically healthy people do not feel discomfort, and bed linen remains dry. And in a stone or concrete house, heated by batteries, even at 18 degrees it can be chilly.

When heating with water registers, the lower temperatures should be taken at 20 and 22 degrees, respectively, and when heated with IR emitters, electric or gas catalytic, one degree higher; IR devices dry the air a lot. Therefore, a brick heating stove with an efficiency factor (heat transfer coefficient) of 50% can be more economical in terms of heating costs than an ultra-modern metal-composite one with an efficiency factor of 70%, because the heat loss of a house strongly, according to a power law, depends on the difference between internal and external temperatures (temperature gradient).

Note: small breathing can be achieved by enclosing it with a convection screen (see fig.) 30-40 mm thick from plywood, seasoned wood hardwood or several layers of drywall. At the same time, uniform heating of the room along the height will be ensured. But the breathing of such a furnace will not be deep and even. Here modern technologies they haven't touched the brick yet.

Furnace respiration combined with physiology gives a second-order economic consequence: the heating season can start later and end earlier. In the central zone of the Russian Federation, the difference for a year can reach a week, and in the Chernozem region and to the south - 2-3. For which it will not be necessary to purchase fuel. And if you consider that a good brick stove works on everything that burns, including waste and cheap alternative fuels (pellets, etc.), then the savings increase even more.

Note: on a global scale, brick kilns still do not fit well into the environment - the extraction and production of materials for them causes damage environment greater than the savings from stove heating on losses in heat mains and power lines. But in this case, demand no longer creates, but dictates supply. Leading furnace companies are quietly but hard at work on improving the technologies for the production of furnace materials and the creation of brick kilns that can be transported ready-made and installed immediately at the place of use.

Those wishing to lay down the oven with their own hands does not decrease. Professional stove-makers also do not break the price: their work is in demand, the competition is quite high, and, in addition, most of them are enthusiasts in their field. But in order to take on the stove yourself or competently consider the proposed project, you need to know the basic principles of building stoves, which is what this article is written about.

Is it only in the house?

A brick oven on the farm is useful not only for heating and cooking. Stationary can bring a very good income, as well as a barbecue or IP working in the field of catering.

In everyday life, first of all, the high heat capacity of a brick is important, which ensures long-term heat transfer after heating. Once the firebox is empty, you can sleep peacefully without fear of intoxication. For industrial ovens, the low thermal conductivity of the brick comes to the fore, which makes it possible to create a high concentration of heat in the working area. In this case, the breathing of the furnace becomes already a harmful factor, and it is most often stopped by placing the furnace in a gas-tight case.

Small businessmen specializing in artisanal industrial production should think about these types of industrial furnaces, which it is quite possible to make yourself:

• Cupola furnace - at the utility yard it is possible to melt up to 50 kg of scrap metal at a time.
• - for hardening of metal products with simultaneous cementing.
• Kiln for ceramics, etc.

Note: brick ovens are not recommended for heating greenhouses, greenhouses, poultry houses, stockyards. A miasma-breathing stove will spoil the air, and will soon deteriorate itself.

The fact is that factory samples of small industrial furnaces are designed for transportation in parts or assembled. Therefore, their prices are prohibitively high. But, laying out the oven on the spot, you can get no worse, without getting into a heavy loan, and develop a profitable business. For now, we will dwell on: they were the first to appear in everyday life and the principles laid down in them are also valid for others.

Note: a separate analysis requires a stove for a bath. Here the brick is also at its best, but for slightly different reasons. Bath stoves there will be a separate section below.

Furnace in the house

It is not necessary to build a house from a stove, you can also choose a stove suitable for the house. But first you need to carry out a heat engineering calculation of the building, taking into account the factors described above, and determine the place for the stove in the house. You also need to know that the insulation of the house from the outside increases the efficiency of stove heating much more than heating with registers. And, in turn, sheathing the house with siding greatly simplifies and reduces the cost of insulation. That is, the optimal design of a house stove should initially be complex.

As for the layout, different options are possible here, see fig. The house on the left of it is suitable, for example, for a bachelor hermit, but not an ascetic or a childless family of convinced sybarites, a warm bed in the bedroom will come in handy here. The stove is heating and cooking. Russian does not fit into such a house, but Swedish (see below) is perfect. The option is budget housing for a small family, then the bedroom turns into a nursery or a zone in the penthouse is allocated for children.

In the middle the house is already bigger and more impressive. A fireplace stove with a finished cast iron firebox opens into the living room, see below; firebox door made of heat-resistant glass. Here, too, different options are possible. If, for example, the kitchen with a bathroom is interchanged, the heating shield (see below about it) is turned 90 degrees, and the veranda from the hallway is moved to right side, then it is possible, due to some reduction in the living room, to shield another 1-2 bedrooms. At the same time, a corridor will pass to the common areas.

The plan on the right is more suitable for giving. In summer, opening the window in the kitchen-hallway, it will not be too hot to cook. A fireplace stove in the corner - for evening gatherings by the fire; in it, in case of bad weather, it will be possible to cook a barbecue or barbecue on a grill.

Already at the stage of planning a house with a stove, you need to consider the following:

1. For a tall stove with its own chimney, or for a stove with 500 or more bricks, you need separate foundation, which does not have a mechanical connection with the foundation of the building, even if they are designed and built together;
2. A low and wide hob and a heating shield for it on the floor, made according to the requirements of SNiP (that is, capable of holding a load of at least 250 kg / sq. M) can be placed without a foundation, making only thermal insulation; more about her. It is advisable to reinforce the flooring under the shield with additional lags;
3. The cutting of the chimney (also see below) should not come into contact with the ceiling beams, it is very desirable that the distances from the cutting to the floor beams closest to it be approximately the same.
4. The chimney must protrude above the roof ridge by at least 500 mm and be at least 1500 mm away from it.

Clause 1 allows exceptions. If the oven is made of 1000 or less bricks, and the foundation of the house is strip sectional, then the foundation of the furnace can be built at the intersection or T-shaped connection of the strips under the internal walls. In this case, the distance from the furnace foundation to the nearest other strips of the building foundation must be at least 1.2 m.

Note: because Since a small Russian stove requires 1,500 bricks, then all Russian stoves must be built on separate foundations. But here there is an exception - a small Russian can be built on guardianship from wooden beam 150x150 mm, penetrating the floor to the buta in the foundation of a building or soil.

Furnace structure

The oven itself is sometimes referred to as the body of the oven. The furnace body is installed on the hydro- and thermal insulation of the furnace foundation or floor and ends with a chimney exiting through the attic and roof. All this together is called the structure of the furnace. The structure of a brick heating furnace is shown in fig. on right:

1. foundation;
2. hydrothermal insulation;
3. trenches - a kind of legs, they are made for lower heating and saving bricks;
4. blew;
5. the entrance of the ventilator - an air channel that provides uniform heating of the room in height;
6. blower door;
7. grate;
8. firebox door - worked - with the course of fuel supply - rut;
9. the firebox of the firebox, or just the firebox, or just the firebox;
10. furnace vault;
11. the mouth of the firebox, or its highlo. Sometimes only the vertical mouth of the firebox with a narrowing (nozzle) is called hail, and in the Russian stove hail is the nozzle at the beginning of the chimney;
12. cleaning door or just cleaning;
13. overflow (pass) - the inflection of the channel of the air convector of the air vent;
14. air convector ventilator;
15. valve for switching the furnace stroke (see below, shown conditionally);
16. gas (smoke) convector, or convective furnace system;
17. view - a valve that closes the chimney after heating, so that the stove does not get cold by natural or wind draft;
18. the exit of the air vent into the room with its door. In the summer, the door of the stuffing box is closed, and the air convection in it stops;
19. smoke channel chimney;
20. overlap of the furnace;
21. internal cutting of the chimney;
22. ceiling covering;
23. fire fighting;
24. fluff, or otter - expansion of the mouth of the chimney.

Note: the side of the furnace with the work (in the Russian furnace the work is sometimes called the pharynx) is called the forehead of the furnace, and its side walls are called mirrors or cheeks.

Let's give some explanations. Foundation - solid reinforced concrete; for the furnace on the trenches - banded packed. Removal of the foundation - at least 50 mm. Insulation - 2-3 layers of roofing material, on top of them - 4-6 mm of asbestos or basalt cardboard, then a sheet of roofing iron, and on it laying under laying - a sheet of felt or basalt cardboard soaked in a very liquid masonry mortar for the furnace, see about it . Further. The litter is laid on the iron wet and allowed to dry before laying.

The first rows of masonry of the furnace body (oblique shading in the figure) are made of ordinary ceramic red brick (not front!) cement-sand mortar, this is the sub-furnace part of the furnace. Next comes the furnace, or fire part (hatching in a box), it is laid from ceramic oven bricks in combination with fireclay, about bricks also further, on a clay-sand mortar.

In front of the blower door and the worker, a sheet of roofing iron is laid on the floor on an asbestos or basalt cardboard pillow of 4-6 mm, its root edge is immured into the nearest upper masonry seam. Removal of the sheet forward - not less than 300 mm, and to the sides of the forehead - not less than 150 mm. The free edges of the sheet are folded over and nailed to the floor.

Clay masonry mortar does not set, but dries. With an irregular firebox in the cold season, it gradually becomes sour from moisture. In this case, a part of the body of the furnace, the temperature in which does not rise above 200-250 degrees, is laid out from furnace bricks, but on a cement-sand mortar, which is also much cheaper than clay, oblique hatching with a gray fill in fig. The solution for this part of the masonry is Portland cement from M400 and mountain sand without inclusions. Replacement with decorative analogues is unacceptable!

The lower transitions from the channel to the channel of the gas convector (overflows) should be 30-50% higher in height than the upper ones (passes). This will ensure that soot accumulates at the bottom of the convector (on its hearth), from where it can be easily removed. For the same purpose, the edges of the passes are rounded.

Starting from 80 degrees in the chimney, the masonry is again from simple brick on a conventional cement-sand mortar. The internal cutting of the chimney is necessary, it holds the fireproof cutting (at least 50 mm of asbestos or basalt cardboard in a metal cage) and, most importantly, in the event of a soot fire, it will absorb heat for a time sufficient to take the necessary measures.

The role of fluff (otter) is aerodynamic. It cuts through the wind flow, forcing its upper part to jump over the mouth of the chimney, so the draft is not so dependent on the wind. The height of the fluff is at least 2 rows of bricks, the removal at the cut of the mouth is half a brick. Neglect of fluff - very common cause smoking stoves.

The choice of the scheme of the furnace

The main schemes of convection of domestic brick ovens are shown in fig. On the left - a channel furnace with a sequential gas convector, the easiest to execute. According to the serial channel scheme, similar ones are built. In addition to simplicity, the advantage of the channel scheme is that it is very flexible in design. The convector with the firebox is mechanically connected only with a hail, so the channel stove can be designed for any ready-made room, see next. rice.

However, the efficiency of purely channel stoves rarely exceeds 40%, and it is very difficult to build a water heater into them: a powerful internal heat flow circulates in the body of the stove, and any violation of it leads to a drop in efficiency and increased soot deposition.

In the center in Fig. with diagrams the most advanced heating and cooking stove made of bricks -, its efficiency reaches 60%. It is a chamber oven (the role of the air chamber, streamlined by a stream of hot gases, is played by oven 1) and a channel convector stretched from floor to ceiling behind it. In the chamber part of the Swedish stove, gases heat the hob in the cooking niche 2, and part of the convector heat enters the dryer 3. Advantages of the Swedish stove:

• The convector and the oven do not have energy feedback from the combustion part, so a U- or W-shaped heat exchanger can be built into the oven on the side DHW systems With storage tank, and place the tank itself either in a drying niche or on the ceiling of the furnace.
• Afterburning of flue gases occurs in the chamber part of the furnace. They go into the convector with a temperature below 800 degrees, so it can be made from ordinary bricks on a cement-sand mortar.
• The high narrow convector gives uniform warming up of the room on height.
• Part of the flue gases from the outlet of the chamber can be passed, for example, into a stove bench, and then returned to the convector without worsening the parameters of the furnace.
• The dimensions of the convector can be varied, shifted and rotated relative to the chamber part, so the Swede also fits well into the finished house and can heat up to 3 rooms, see next. rice. (after channel furnaces).
• If you open the oven door, a powerful stream of thermal radiation will come out of it, which will quickly warm up and dry people who have come from hard work in the cold.

The main disadvantage of the Swedish furnace is the high quality requirements for materials and work for the chamber part of the furnace. In addition, a foundation is definitely needed under it; without it, a tall and narrow structure, parts of which are loaded differently due to thermal stresses, will turn out to be fragile and unstable. Only an experienced stove-maker can make a Swedish-type oven.

Finally, on the right in Fig. with diagrams - bell-type furnace. Its efficiency can exceed 70%, because. it is self-regulating: flue gases will not go into the chimney until they burn out under the dome of the hood and give up their heat to the body of the furnace. In addition, a bell-type furnace has the property of a gas view: if you forget to close the regular one, hot gases under the hood will not let heavy cold air from hail, and the stove won't get cold. This guarantees against intoxication due to an untimely closed view.

However, the bell-type furnace looks simple only on the diagram, and in execution it is very difficult due to the high loads in the design. Then, the bell-type stove is exclusively heating, it is impossible to build a hob into it. Heat extraction for a water heater is possible only in two-bell stoves, which are even more complex, so bell-type stoves are not very common in everyday life. The exception is, but such talented stove-makers are rarely born.

Plate and shield

The development of the idea of ​​the Swede gave rise to a very promising design: a conventional hob with a separate heating shield-convector, see fig. All that was required for this was to abandon the cooking and drying niches, this made it possible to mechanically separate the chamber and channel parts, i.e. build them separately; maybe even one by one.

What do we get in return? Less load on the floor. The slab can in most cases be built directly on wooden floor, putting on it the same insulation as on the foundation for the furnace. And under the shield, just a damping pad made of basalt cardboard is enough. The problem of the stability of a high narrow shield remains, but it is solved by creating its mechanical connection with the wall, even if it is a half-brick partition, see fig. left.

Further, the shield can be moved and unfolded relative to the stove, then the stove can heat the kitchen with a bathroom, and the shield can even heat up to 4 rooms. To do this, insert a flexible link made of heat-resistant corrugation with good thermal insulation into the horizontal section of the chimney between them to avoid soot deposition. In general, at the cost of abandoning niches that are almost unnecessary in our time, a fundamentally new and very practical design has turned out.

Seasonal oven moves

In summer, when it is already so hot, there is no need to heat the room. But putting scanty amounts of fuel into the furnace will also fail: the limits for adjusting the power by supplying fuel to all furnaces are small. The heat from a small bookmark will fly out into the pipe, the rest will not be enough for scrambled eggs. But not everyone has the opportunity to get a summer kitchen with a stove.

In such a case, furnace designs were invented with switching from summer to winter. The easiest way is to switch the course in a channel furnace of a parallel circuit, two left pos. in fig. below. However maximum efficiency a channel-parallel furnace can only be achieved with a power of more than 20 kW. Here the square-cube law applies, and in too small oven the heat will “whistle” into the pipe, not having time to heat the convector. In addition, all two-way furnaces are potentially dangerous: if you inadvertently close both valves, waste will go. Finally, during the summer run, the overlap and part of the cheeks of the furnace are still heated.

Meanwhile, there is a two-way scheme, especially suitable for heating shields: a scheme with two chimneys, summer and winter, two pos. on the right in Fig. It needs only one valve, so it is completely safe - there will be traction in any position of the switch. The position of the valve out of season will immediately be felt by heat transfer, and you can switch the course during the firebox. And smoothly regulate the heating by partially closing the damper.

On a summer course, gases will not squeeze through in a winter course: aerodynamic drag the labyrinth of the convector is much larger than that of a straight pipe. And the complexity of the construction of chimneys is not at all double: the gases go into the winter chimney cooled below 80 degrees, so the winter chimney can be lightened and simplified, for example. asbestos-cement. The only small minus of a system with two chimneys is that each pair of convector channels needs to be cleaned.

Special Furnaces

Before moving on to a more detailed analysis of conventional furnaces, let's dwell on a few special, highly sought-after designs.

Barbecue oven

The real one is an ancient open hearth, see fig. It is built either outdoors under a canopy or indoors under a smoke hood. Masonry without any tricks: in half a brick with a spoon dressing. 3-4 rows need to be laid out with pokes to make supports for the brazier and grates. However, for more details on masonry, see below.

The foundation for an outdoor barbecue is the simplest, slab of ready-made concrete monoliths or stone blocks on a sand and gravel cushion. An indoor barbecue is built directly on the floor on the combined insulation described above.

The barbecue has one subtlety: the side of the brazier, it heats the cooking from the sides in the right hearth. Therefore, it is advisable to lay out the top 2-3 rows of fireclay bricks, it absorbs heat very well and slowly releases it. In order for the top of the brazier to warm up faster, faceted shaped bricks should be taken, as shown in fig. below. Through the wedge-shaped depressions between them, heat will quickly pass into the masonry. You can make shaped bricks for barbecue yourself, but then you have to work as a grinder.

bathhouse

How the stove is built in the usual way; here main secret- the device of the heater. The closed heater, through which flue gases pass (on the left in the figure), warms up quickly and gives the most useful dry steam. But you can’t “pour” water or kvass on it, you will have to melt the stove again. In addition, the slightest flaw - improperly selected stones, poor fuel, violation of the furnace regime - leads to the deposition of unburned organic matter in the heater, and dry steam can be toxic and carcinogenic.

An open heater (second from the left in the figure) is safe, but takes a long time to heat up. To take a steam bath with “overdating”, the stove must be heated all the time, so it must go out into the dressing room: waste is especially dangerous at high air temperatures. Pressing too much, you can even chill the heater, and the whole bath will go down the drain.

The third oven on the left with a side closed heater is more perfect: the bunker with stones is washed by hot gases from all sides except the front one, so the heater warms up faster and more can be pumped into it. But the most perfect sauna stove is the bell stove, the one on the far right. The heater is located on the vault of the hood, the temperature under which is very high, there is the main source of heat release, and this heat has nowhere to go except into stones. Therefore, the heater warms up in a matter of minutes and can be pumped almost without restrictions. There is no need to heat the stove, the “cap” will choose the mode for itself depending on the heat consumption, as long as there is fuel in the furnace.

This oven has 3 drawbacks. Firstly, the overall complexity and high cost, like bell-type furnaces in general. Secondly, a cap made of ordinary steel quickly burns out, but one made of heat-resistant roads. Finally, it is possible to pump into the heater of this stove only from the built-in shower, and you cannot fill it with kvass.

Flow Furnaces

Flow furnaces do not have convectors, but they have only an external resemblance to a fire in a chimney or cave. Flow ovens can be very efficient. The most popular types are the English fireplace and the Russian stove.

Fireplace

The structure diagram is shown in fig. To obtain maximum efficiency, comparable to the efficiency of a Dutch woman, the fireplace insert should be tapering back on all sides, on the right in fig.

The main proportions of the fireplace are as follows:

• The area of ​​the portal is 2% of the area of ​​the room.
• The height of the portal is from 2/3 to 3/4 of its width.
• The area of ​​​​the furnace opening is 1.5-1.8% of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.
• The hearth area of ​​the firebox is 70% of the portal area.
• The depth of the firebox is 1/2-2/3 of the height of the furnace opening.
• The fracture of the rear wall of the firebox is 1/3 of its height.
• The angle of inclination of the "mirror" of the rear wall is 20-22 degrees from the vertical.
• The angle of convergence of the side walls is 45-60 degrees, i.e. 22.5-30 degrees for each.
• If the fireplace is with a solid hearth, then its rise back is 4-7 degrees.
• The height of the podium above the floor is about 50 cm.
• The cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney is 7-13% of the furnace area. The smaller value refers to a round chimney, the larger one to a rectangular chimney with sides 1:2. For a square chimney - 10%

Russian stove

(diagram in the figure) with regular intensive heating, it gives an efficiency of up to 80%, has amazing decorative qualities, allows you to cook traditional Russian dishes that you cannot cook in any other way, and is always supplied with a stove bench. But the design of the Russian stove is very conservative, only a stove-maker with extensive experience in working specifically with Russian stoves can make changes to it without risking ruining the stove.

From the point of view of structural mechanics, the Russian stove also stands apart. It is not a solid, working as one, module (hollow column, wall), but almost a complete analogue of the building: a coherent structure, the parts of which interact through corners. Therefore, the corners of the Russian stove must be laid out in accordance with all the rules. There is not enough reconciliation in order, you still need to constantly reconcile by plumb line. The key moments of the laying of the Russian stove are shown by the following figure.

Preliminary calculation of the furnace

Before choosing a furnace project, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation for the room. Usually it is based on the heat transfer of the furnace in kcal / h. In the process of cooling the furnace, heat transfer decreases, but the heat loss from the room also decreases, because. it also cools down. The task of the calculation is to withstand the temperature in the room until the next firebox.

Such a calculation is theoretically complicated, and using ready-made coefficients and simplified formulas requires a lot of experience. But for houses with good external insulation, quite reliable results are obtained by the method proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov for calculating the average heat output per unit surface of the furnace (TMEP). For a normal firebox, you can take it 0.5 kW / sq. m, and for remelting in hard frost– up to 0.76 kW/sq. m within 2 weeks.

With the use of TMEP, the estimating calculation of the furnace becomes quite simple. Let's say we have a stove 1.5x1.5 m in plan and 2.5 m high. The area of ​​\u200b\u200bits walls is 3.75x4 \u003d 15 square meters. m plus 2.25 sq. m overlap. Only 17.5 sq. m. This furnace will be able to give from 8.75 to 13.3 kW of heat. Taking into account the peculiarities of stove heating, this is enough for a house of 80-100 square meters. m.

Firebox

To calculate the furnace, you must first determine the maximum amount of fuel bookmarks. It is found by the required heat output, the calorific value of the fuel, its specific gravity and the estimated efficiency of the furnace. The calculation is carried out for all types of fuel for which the furnace is intended, and choose highest value. The volume of the fuel chamber of the furnace (combustion chamber) is taken 2-3 times more than the maximum volume of the fuel mass, based on the overheating. In general, the maximum fuel loading into the combustion chamber is 2/3 of its volume.

A complete calculation of the furnace is the lot of non-lovers and not even any heating engineer. Let's take at least such a "trifle" as a grate. It will let too much air through - the fuel will burn out faster than the body of the furnace will take its heat, the rest will fly out into the pipe. There is little air - the fuel will not burn out completely, and the unreleased heat will again go into the pipe with smoke. And the soot, and the ash that clogs the grate? And all this needs to be linked with other, no less significant units of the furnace, and for different types fuel.

Fortunately, now there are many ready-made stove inserts for sale for different thermal outputs, for different fuels, with a deaf or transparent, for fireplace stoves, created. And the finished firebox will cost less than any home-made one. It is only necessary when choosing to pay attention to the following:

1. The dimensions of the firebox and its fasteners (pins, whiskers) must be consistent with the dimensions of the brick. Kiln bricks are produced in several standard sizes (see below), and the same firebox can be sold in several modifications for different bricks.
2. For a long-term furnace, a cast iron furnace must be taken. Welded from a sheet - for furnaces used occasionally.
3. You also need to pay attention to the depth of the narrowing of the combustion chamber to the grate - an ash mine, an ash well or just an ash pan.

Let's clarify the last point. If the stove will be fired mainly with high-calorie low-ash fuel in large pieces (coal, peat briquettes), then the ash pan should be taken deeper, up to 1/3 of the height of the combustion chamber. In a small ash pan, such fuel will burn out too quickly. If the stove is for low-calorie wood fuel, including pellets, then the depth of the ash pan should be no more than 1/5 of the height of the combustion chamber, otherwise the bottom of the fuel mass will quickly become clogged with ash, the air flow will be reduced, and the fuel will not burn out.

As you can see, the fork of the depth of the ash pan is large. Therefore, it is better to overpay a little and take a multi-fuel firebox. Such complete combustion all types of fuel listed in the certificate are ensured by special design measures.

Note: raw firewood can be completely burned in a deep ash pan, and coal can be burned on a flat hearth, by choosing the right amount of fuel. But this requires the experience of a stoker and intermediate stoking with chiselling, which is no good at night.

Chimney

The calculation of the chimney is a separate topic, perhaps more complicated than the calculation of the entire furnace. Even on a computer, you have to restart the CAD 2-3 times, manually correcting the original data, before everything fits together properly. But for normal conditions (rectangular cross-section, vertical stroke without kinks, the height of the mouth of the chimney above the grate is 4-12 m), you can immediately give ready-made transverse dimensions for furnaces of different capacities:

• Up to 3.50 kW - 140 × 140 mm.
• From 3.50 to 5.20 kW - 140 × 200 mm.
• 5.20-7.20 kW - 140 × 270 mm.
• 7.20-10.5 kW - 200x200 mm.
• 10.5-14 kW - 200X270 mm.

These values ​​are the minimum. They are designed to avoid "whistling" when cold air is counter-currently drawn into the oven through a chimney that is too wide. "Shistling" is fraught not only with heat loss, but also with a lot of other serious troubles.

If the stove in the chimney chosen “offhand” smokes at least occasionally, it needs to be increased, by only 0.25-0.5 m. cross section less than a chimney.

But the most The best way- do not be lazy and put another 2-4 rows of bricks, not forgetting to make a new fluff. Have you ever seen a pipe with two otters? This means that the initially short chimney, according to the results of the ducts, was increased to the norm.

Note: it is often necessary to build up a pipe when the aerodynamics of the terrain change. Let's say the forest around has grown or high-rise buildings have been set up.

Furnace materials and appliances

Brick

The sources are often confused with refractory fireclay. They have only dimensions in common: if a single building bricks they are 250x125x65 mm, then for stoves they are 230x114x40 mm (standard) or, sometimes, 230x114x65 mm. In general, the oven brick is a high-quality red M150. You can build a Dutch stove and a Russian stove from it entirely. In terms of heat resistance (up to 800 degrees), it would also go to the fireplace, but it absorbs little heat and cools quickly, so it will fit only for a fireplace summer cottage, the fire in which only admire.

Note: the dimensions of the oven bricks have developed historically in the old days, so that anyone can distinguish it from building bricks. The firing of bricks then cost a lot of labor and expense, there was no concrete, and deposits of good clay are rare. Therefore, the then wandering stove-makers often hacked, putting into action a weakly burnt brick from unimportant clay.

Chamotte brick is used for laying the furnace parts of furnaces with a rather intense thermal regime: Swedish, bath, bell-type. Its main advantage for household stoves is not heat resistance, 1600 degrees does not happen in home stoves. More important here is the high thermal conductivity of fireclay in combination with high heat capacity: fireclay masonry is an excellent heat accumulator.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to build a furnace entirely from fireclay: at first it will become unacceptably hot, and then it will give off heat too quickly by radiation. Outside, fireclay masonry should be lined with ceramic on all sides, at least half a brick.

It is not entirely correct to judge the quality of fireclay bricks only by the depth of its color. fireclay clay from different deposits is very different in appearance. An almost black brick can be bad, while a light yellow brick is excellent. The main sign of quality is a fine-grained structure without many visible pores and inclusions (upper left in the figure; nearby - suspicious). The next step in the test is tapping with a light hammer. A good brick gives a sonorous or clear jerky sound, and a bad brick gives a deaf stretched sound. Finally, if the knock did not really clarify anything, they check for cleavage, or, in modern terms, they conduct a crash test: a brick is broken or dropped from a height onto a hard floor. At good brick and cleavage is good, it splits into large pieces with a granular fracture. A bad one gives more dust and crumbs than large fragments.

The sides of fireclay bricks are called the same as building ones, this is also shown in fig. Like building fireclay, chamotte is used in full-length, in 3/4 lengths (three-fours), halves and quarters. How they are indicated on the masonry diagrams is shown in Fig. bottom left.

Clinker bricks, or simply clinker (on the right in the figure), are well suited for laying the internal critical parts of household stoves. This is the same ceramic brick fired at high temperature. His appearance is unsightly, but the strength and heat resistance are increased. Clinker costs a little more than ordinary red brick, but significantly cheaper than fireclay.

Note: silicate brick is absolutely unsuitable for any parts of furnaces. It does not adhere to clay mortar, but from alternating thermal loads it draws moisture into itself like a sponge.

Sand

Sand in mortar for masonry stoves requires special consideration. For a furnace designed for more than 10 years of regular use without repair, mountain sand without inclusions is needed. In other types, there is too much organic matter, due to which the masonry seams crumble and crack over time.

Clean mountain sand roads. But the main thing is that now there is generally an ideal replacement for it on sale: clay sand for ceramic masonry and fireclay sand for fireclay. Do not be surprised by the phrase "clay sand", it, like fireclay, ground battle of the corresponding type of brick. Brick sand most often turns out to be cheaper than good mountain sand, and masonry on mortar with it comes out of exceptional quality.

Masonry mortars

For laying brick ovens are used. There are a lot of recipes, we will give the simplest and most high-quality ones. Fireclay requires fireclay marl or white kaolin. For ceramic bricks - any refractory ground clay; best gray kaolin, blue or gray Cambrian. In both cases, 100 pcs. brick will need 40 kg of clay.

When buying, they immediately check the clay for smell: any clearly tangible, pleasant or unpleasant, indicates an admixture of organic matter, such clay is not suitable for laying a furnace. Next, you need to determine the required proportion of sand in the solution, because. clay of different deposits of the same quality has different fat content - a combination of adhesive ability with viscosity. 0.5-1 kg of clay powder is taken for a sample, poured with water in a bowl to the top of the backfill and allowed to sour for a day, gain moisture. Fireclay marl completely turns sour in 1-2 hours, overexposure is not terrible.

Sour clay, adding a little water, is kneaded to the consistency of a very thick dough or plasticine. Then the batch is divided into 5 parts and sand is added to each: 10%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% by volume. All samples are thoroughly, until completely homogeneous, knead again and dry for 3-4 hours.

Now the samples are rolled into sausages with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm, at least 30 cm long. Each sausage is wrapped around any round object with a diameter of about 5 cm and the result is looked at:

1. The solution according to the sample, which has settled down absolutely without cracks, will fit for any furnace, including the fuel part.
2. The dried crust was torn, forming a network of small cracks - the solution is also suitable for all furnaces, incl. for the Russian furnace and the Dutch furnace.
3. Cracks went deep by 1-2 mm - the solution is suitable for parts of the oven heated no higher than 300 degrees, for a barbecue and a country fireplace.
4. Deep cracks, breaks, breaks - there is too much sand, the solution is not suitable.

The main point of testing for the proportion of sand is to reduce the cost of construction: brick sand is much cheaper than high-quality clay. Accordingly, the more it goes into solution, the cheaper it will be.

Note: this test is only suitable for mortar on brick sand. For solutions on natural sand, other samples are used.

The working solution is prepared according to the same principle as the sample, but already in the required volume:

• Clay is soaked for a day; fireclay marl - an hour.
• Knead the mass to the test.
• Pass through a 3x3 mm sieve.
• Add sand according to the test results.
• Adding a little water, knead until the density of sour cream.
• The fat content of the solution is already checked in the usual way, by wetting the trowel.
• If necessary, add clay or sand (very little!), knead and proceed to masonry.

Note: on average, 3-4 buckets of ready-made mortar come out of a sales package of clay.

Furnace appliances

Furnace appliances (doors, valves) are attached to the body of the furnace either with a mustache falling on the seams of the masonry (on the left in the figure), or with a heat-resistant steel skirt wrapped with a 5-mm asbestos cord before installation, on the right there. The former, of course, are cheaper, but fireboxes, ovens and flame dampers are not suitable for working: during the life of the furnace they have to be changed several times, and it is bad to break the masonry, tearing the mustache out of the seams. And, of course, the installation dimensions of the devices must be consistent with the dimensions of the bricks, taking into account the thickness of the seam.

Laying and dressing

Brickwork is spoon and bonder, depending on which side of the brick looks out. Bricks are laid on the bed. "Bed" masonry, when a brick is placed on a poke or spoon, is extremely fragile and SNiP is prohibited, but in exceptional cases it is used for exterior finish unloaded structures.

The masonry is carried out with dressing of the seams, i.e. the seams of individual bricks must have a run-up (offset) in a row of masonry (in one or two directions horizontally) and between rows (vertically). In unbonded masonry, any microcrack that cannot be avoided will inevitably creep further, destroying the structure.

Dozens of methods for dressing seams are known only in construction, and in the furnace business they also have to be changed in order to lay out complex smoke passages. However, you can check the finished project of the furnace or developed it yourself, guided by fairly simple principles:

1. Masonry begins and ends with tychkovy rows.
2. Any brick must rest on at least 2 others.
3. Bricks of adjacent rows must overlap by at least 1/4 in length or width.
4. All vertical seams must be filled with mortar, otherwise the masonry will delaminate into vertical layers.
5. The vertical seams of the butt and spoon rows should not match.
6. Protruding thresholds, areas under beams and liners should be bonded.
7. Hewn parts of bricks should not protrude outward. The exception is bricks processed with a grinder with a diamond wheel.

The normal width of the seam when laying the furnace is 3 mm, the minimum is 2 mm. Widening up to 5 mm is acceptable; on underfloor rows and in the vault - up to 13 mm. At the junction of fireclay and ceramic masonry and around inserts made of any other material (stove appliances, concrete beams, hob pins, etc.), masonry is carried out with a seam of maximum width - 5 mm. The grates are placed in a nest on the bottom of the firebox dry so that they can be removed for cleaning.

All rows of masonry must be tied vertically. In the vast internal spaces of the rows, incomplete dressing in a row is allowed (see the figure), or laying by the backfilling method, i.e. filling them with bricks without dressing. Dressing between similar rows (for example, underfire) is conveniently done using the mirror reflection method, similar to how fence posts are laid out, on the right in fig.

Convector and shield masonry

When laying convector partitions, it is necessary to leave bypass windows at the top (passes) and at the bottom (overflows). There are no problems with the passes - it is enough not to report 2-3 bricks, and that's it. But you can’t lay the flow like that, you get a hanging wall. Partitions over the overflows are laid out, as shown in Fig. Supports from pokes alternate after 3-5 rows. The windows of the spoon row near the pokes are covered with brick halves.

The walls of the furnace convector are laid out in its order, and the walls of the heating shield are laid out with spoons with a simple spoon dressing. Her schemes for walls in half a brick, in brick and one and a half bricks are shown on the next. rice. In the latter, dressing is used by the method of mirror reflection.

Vault masonry

In household stoves, semi-circular (in the form of part of a cylinder) and flat vaults are used, see fig. below. In the best Russian stoves, very experienced stove-makers sometimes, on special order, make the arch of the furnace oval four-centered, and in Pompeii furnaces the arch is domed, but both of them require high skill and experience. In a mechanically lightly loaded furnace semicircular vault, the extreme stones of the wings - the heels - and the central stone - the castle - do not differ from the others.

The semicircular vault is laid out in the following order:

• Prepare a drawing of the vault on a scale of 1: 1.
• Thrust bearings are hewn along it - bricks on which the wings of the vault will rest.
• Thrust bearings are placed on the solution and the laying of the furnace is interrupted until the solution is completely dry.
• According to the patterns - circles - lay out the wings of the vault, observing the dressing between the rows.
• The solution is abundantly applied to the groove of the lock and key stones are inserted into it in turn, hammering with a wooden sledgehammer or log. A sign of a properly executed masonry will be a uniform extrusion of the mortar from the seams on the wings.
• They wait for the complete drying of the solution in the vault, remove the circles, continue laying the furnace.

The vertical seams of the lock should not coincide with the seams on the wings. To do this, already at the drawing stage, the wings must be performed in a mirror image, and not by simply shifting one to the other side. The maximum angle of divergence of bricks in the vault is 17 degrees. With bricks of standard size, an internal joint of 2 mm and an external joint of 13 mm, this angle will be maintained.

A flat vault is laid out on a flat pallet instead of a circle of shaped bricks, ready-made purchased or self-made. The masonry technology is the same, but keep in mind that a flat vault does not tolerate the slightest asymmetry! Slightly shifted all to the side - it will collapse on its own. Therefore, even experienced craftsmen lay out a flat vault from shaped bricks according to a proprietary template pallet.

How many bricks do you need?

How many bricks do you need per oven? After all, the amount of mortar and, consequently, the main costs of construction are tied to it.

Once upon a time, the number of bricks was calculated by empirical coefficients for standard projects. The method gave up to 15% of the fight (and theft), which is unacceptable at current prices.

Now furnaces are calculated in computer-aided design systems (CAD). The program immediately gives out how many full-length, longitudinal and shaped bricks are needed. But, since they don’t build a blast furnace or a kiln for a factory at home, and mastering CAD requires a lot of work, time and special knowledge, the do-it-yourselfer has no choice but to simply count the bricks in order of the kiln. It will take an hour and a half for an average brownie stove, but, counting carefully, you can reduce the fight to 2-3%

Note: a correctly completed furnace project must be accompanied by a specification indicating the number of bricks, other materials and complete list devices, indicating their type and variety.

Tool

The tool for furnace work is generally the same as for other masonry work (see the figure below): a pick hammer (butt) with a butt in the form of a wedge for splitting bricks, a trowel (trowel), cutting for convex and concave joints, mortar shovel. But the order must be added. In this case, this is not a masonry scheme spaced apart in its rows, but a tool for checking its correctness.

The fact is that the laying of the furnace with seams uneven in thickness will soon crack from temperature deformations. On the other hand, masonry on clay dries for a long time, at least a week, and even dried seams can be soaked and an unsuccessful structure rebuilt.

Order-tool (on the right in the figure) - even wooden lath 50x50 mm, on the sides of which row numbers are marked for different types of bricks, taking into account the thickness of the seam. At least 4 orders are needed per oven, and one for each additional corner, internal or external. Use the order like this:

1. Underfloor rows are laid out in the formwork.
2. Orders are fixed in the corners, with 2 staples with pointed ends each. Staples are pressed into the seams of the masonry.
3. A mooring cord is moored to the orders, along which the laying is carried out. For a Russian stove, the corners are additionally verified with plumb lines.
4. As the layout progresses, the upper bracket, shaking, is removed from the seam and inserted into the next one.
5. The holes from the bracket in the previous seam are sealed with masonry mortar.

Working principles

In all furnaces without exception, the mechanical bonds are relatively weak and the loads are high. Therefore, "brick on brick - drive, grandma, mogorych!" is not clear here. The stove, which has not yet been brought to the ceiling, will most likely collapse, as described by Makarenko in the Pedagogical Poem. When laying the furnace, the following rules must be observed:

• Bricks are laid only one at a time. For beginners, it is advisable to lay out the next row on a dry one, level it, and only then put the stones on the mortar.
• Each brick is mop before laying (not to be confused with scraping!): carefully cleaned of crumbs and dust with a hair brush.
• A ceramic brick is dipped in clean water for a second or two and shaken well, then it will immediately stick to the mortar.
• Fireclay bricks are not "bathed" in any case!
• It is difficult to apply a layer of mortar exactly in 3 mm with a trowel, so experienced craftsmen apply the mortar by hand. But this also requires some skill.
• The brick is put in place with one movement, you can’t push and tap!
• If the stone does not immediately lie down as it should, it is removed, the mortar is cleaned from the brick and its bed and laid again.
• The removed solution is thrown away, it is no longer suitable for use!

Design examples

For example, consider a couple of structures with which you can start the transition from theory to practice. On fig. - scheme and order the simplest furnace from brick: a hob that does not require a foundation. It will take no more than 130 ordinary red bricks, given the battle at the hands of a novice master. In the descent from the pass of the gas channel to the exit to the chimney (marked in red in the figure), you can build in a U- or W-shaped DHW heat exchanger with a storage tank made of a metal water pipe.

Despite its simplicity and small size, the heat output of this stove is about 650 kcal / h, which allows flue gases to pass through a heating shield that heats 20-25 square meters. m. of living space. A hob of standard size 1 is laid freely on mustaches 2 of 3-4 mm steel, embedded in the seam between 11 and 12 rows of masonry. Its thickness is 6 mm.

On the trail. rice. - small order with single burner hob. It is also made of simple red brick M150. Taking into account amateur combat, they will need 270-280 pieces.

The cast-iron stove lies freely on the mustache, as in the previous stove. You can remove it and insert a barbecue grill into its nest, or lay skewers with kebabs on the stove opening. With an open (or transparent) firebox door, the stove turns into a fireplace.

It is no longer possible to put this stove on the floor, it is too high and narrow. But on soils with sufficient bearing capacity (loam, sandy loam, forest land, etc. "country" soils), the foundation for it can be a solid slab on a sand and gravel cushion, as for a barbecue hearth.

Video: an example of laying a simple brick oven

The most important principle

Finally, let's give the most main principle construction of brick household stoves: the stove and the house are closely interconnected, they can be friends and feuds. It is very simple to reconcile the stove with the house: any of them will show all its advantages only in a solid, well-insulated house.

There are many options for heating a summer house today: centralized gas, boilers, electric heaters. But if it is not possible to realize all this due to the remoteness of the area from civilization, a do-it-yourself brick stove will be an excellent solution.

Reliable and durable - it will gather around itself more than one generation of households, providing the house with warmth and filling it with comfort.

The services of a good stove-maker are not cheap pleasure. Therefore, if you decide to implement a brick oven project in your country house, it will be useful for you to read this article, in which we will talk about the principle of operation, features and layout of the oven structure.

A brick oven can become not only a functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior, if it is properly beaten. Today, there are many ways to beautifully veneer and decorate a stone oven.

No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first stove structures and no matter how far home heating technologies have gone, the stone stove still does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to retain heat for another day after the firewood has burned out.

According to their purpose, furnaces are divided into the following types:

• heating;
• cooking;
• multifunctional;
• combined.

• a combustion chamber, which is purchased ready-made, or laid out with fireclay bricks;
• an ash pan where the ashes are collected;
• chimney.

A fireplace with an open or closed firebox can also be attributed to the same type of design. It is used not only for decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively heat a room with an area of ​​​​15-20 square meters. meters.

Depending on the selected material, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating stoves may have different heat output.

The most popular type of oven is the one-brick construction. This allows you to heat the walls up to 60 0 C. According to this scheme, the famous Dutch ovens are laid out.

In terms of dimensions, the heating stove can be wide and large, or it can have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the owners.

For lining such a furnace, tiled tiles are usually used, decorative plaster, decorative rock.

Brick heating stoves in the form of a three-sided prism look very stylish and original, but this option will not work for a beginner, since it requires a lot of experience. Of great difficulty is the hewing of bricks and the requirements for maintaining an angle strictly under 60 0.

Round stoves also look beautiful and unusual, which are laid out according to the scheme of the famous Russian engineer in the stove business V.E. Grum-Grizhimailo. The furnace works on the principle of free movement of gases. To ensure tightness, the outside of the structure is covered with sheet metal. Such a stove is able to heat a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.

The design of the furnace consists of a brick body, inside of which there is a combustion chamber, an ash pan, a chimney. There is a metal plate on top (an oven can be built in).

1. The heating and cooking stove is already a multifunctional design.

This is a more difficult project to implement, as it consists of:

• combustion chamber;
• chimney;
• ash pan;
• hob;
• oven.

The stove looks massive and is usually chosen for summer cottages, where there is no other heating option.

In our country, heating and cooking stoves are the most popular, allowing you to heat the house and cook a delicious dinner for the whole family.

It can be additionally equipped with a drying chamber, where you can make preparations for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and damp weather, in this chamber you can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes.

By the way, ovens with drying chambers were first invented in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where hunters and fishermen had to dry their clothes and boots overnight.

Many schemes of heating and cooking stoves have additional devices in the form of a comfortable stove bench, a dryer for firewood, an oven, and a hot water tank.

The device of the furnace for giving and its features

The main elements of any brick oven for summer cottages are:

10 basic rules for laying a country stove

Which brick stove to choose for a summer residence?

The choice of oven design determines the size and type of room. For large cottages, a massive stove structure with thick walls will be required, which will heat up for a long time, but at the same time be able to maintain the temperature for a long time. Folding such an oven is not an easy task. This will require some experience and knowledge.

But even a novice can handle a small stove for heating a small cottage, if you follow a clear scheme and do not change the rules of masonry.

In the first place in terms of popularity of heating and cooking stoves is a Swede, who enjoys well-deserved love and respect among Russian stove-makers.

This design is a compact ergonomic shape with a small cooking surface, a three-channel chamber. It is ideal for a small cottage, the length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.

For the location of such a stove, a place is most often chosen between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, the stove performs a dual function: serves for cooking and decorates the living room with a fireplace.

On the Internet today you can find hundreds of different masonry schemes for a Swedish stove with a hob, so it will not be difficult to implement it for a summer residence. A lot of stove-makers brought in standard scheme masonry additional options, so each design is called by the name of its creator: Buslaev's oven, Kuznetsov's, etc. But the principle of work in them is the same.

Traditionally, a Russian stove can be called a bulky massive structure, which is decorated not only with a hob with an oven, but also with a spacious stove bench.

This oven is already not only a functional device for cooking, but also a place to relax. It allows you to warm up the room well, retaining heat for a long time, has a beneficial effect on the human body, so that the owners of such stoves are less susceptible to colds.

The building usually has two fireboxes (main and additional). Due to the special design of the furnace, heating is carried out evenly, from the bottom up. Any solid fuel is suitable for kindling, and especially strict requirements are not imposed on the materials for laying a Russian stove.

A special place among small heating and cooking stoves is occupied by baby V.A. Potapov, created by a famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. For its masonry, only 211 bricks are needed, and the dimensions of the furnace are only 630 * 510 mm.

At the same time, such a baby contains a single-burner stove, a small oven for baking and a hood. This oven option will be an excellent solution for a small garden house or cottages in one room.

In this article, we suggest that you study the rules and highlights of laying a small heating and cooking stove.

Do-it-yourself oven masonry

Step 1. Choose a brick and prepare tools

Which brick for laying a small country stove to choose? We will need 2 types of bricks: fireclay (heat-resistant) for the construction of a firebox and red ceramic (not lower than M-150). You should not save on materials, further operational properties, safety and efficiency of the furnace depend on this.

Fireclay bricks can be easily recognized by their yellowish color and porous surface. The composition of this material includes refractory clay and chips. This material, in addition to its heat-resistant properties, is also valued for its ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the complete attenuation of firewood, such a stove is able to give off heat for a long time.

Heat-resistant fireclay bricks can withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 C, so the combustion chamber should be laid out exclusively from this material.

The smaller the mass of fireclay bricks, the greater the number of pores it contains, which creates aluminum oxide. Such a brick will conduct heat very well. The cost of this material is almost 5 times the price of red brick, but there is no need to save.

But laying out the entire oven from fireclay bricks is also not worth it, the outer part of the structure does not heat up much, and the red ceramic brick looks more attractive.

When choosing a brick for the oven, pay attention to the color and shape.

You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters, and it does not crack, take this batch. But a bad, overexposed brick can break into several parts. Such a brick makes a dull sound when it falls.

The brand of brick for facing the furnace should be M150 or M200. The number in this case means how much weight the brick can withstand per 1 cm 3.

Do not take silicate and hollow bricks. It's not even about the ability to endure. high temperature- they can handle it. Silicate brick does not conduct heat well and it will not be very comfortable in a room with such an oven.

For masonry mortar, you will need sand, red oven clay and water. It directly depends on its quality and consistency. appearance and oven durability. To prepare it, you should use red oven clay of medium liquid. In a frozen form, it should not fall off, crumble.

The masonry will be made with a thickness of 0.5 mm, in which case the precious heat will not quickly leave.

Also, for construction, you can use ready-made masonry mortar, which is sold in stores. Usually, various impurities are present in its composition, which add strength and heat resistance to the structure. In this case, it will be enough to dilute the dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state using a construction mixer.

The consistency of such a solution should resemble thick sour cream. If the mortar rolls off the trowel, more dry mix must be added. If it turned out to be too thick, then it will be difficult to work with it and make thin seams. Add some cold water and stir again.

So, for the construction of the furnace, we need the following materials:

• Masonry mortar (sand, red oven clay).
• Red ceramic brick M150 - 120 pieces.
• Chamotte brick - 40 pieces.
• Foundation material (cement, graphite, sand).
• Ruberoid.
• Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
• Plywood or boards to create formwork.
• Reinforcing mesh for arranging the foundation.
• Grate.
• Metal plate for one burner (cast iron).
• Ash pan and ash pan door (blew).
• Cast iron firebox door.
• Chimney valve.
• Chimney flue.
• Metal cap for the chimney.

Tools you will need to build a furnace.

• Building level.
• Owl shovel.
• Construction marker.
• Goniometer.
• Spatula, rule.
• Master OK.
• Measuring tape (roulette).
• Construction slope.

Important! When laying a stove, a lot depends on the quality of the clay. Ideally, use red river clay of medium fat content, which has been outdoors for at least 2 years. Make exactly as much solution as you can master in "1 call". The solution quickly becomes thick and difficult to work with.

Step 2. We prepare a brick for laying the furnace

Before proceeding with the laying of the furnace, it is necessary to lay out the entire brick in advance and prepare it according to the ordering scheme.

To this stage include dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts, squeezing in the corners.

Study the diagram carefully and see what parts of the bricks you will need for each row.

If necessary, you can number the brick, so that later it is easy to navigate in which row to insert it.

How to split a brick? Before “beating off” the necessary part of the brick, according to the scheme, you first need to make a groove. This can be done with a hacksaw or file.

To make ½ brick - draw 1 groove.

For 1/6 or 1/8 bricks, make a groove on all sides of the brick.

Step 3. Choosing a place for the furnace

This is a very important stage in laying the furnace, which is advisable to carry out even at the stage of building a house.

But there are times when the decision to lay the stove arises from the owners of houses already in the process of operating the cottage. In this case, determine the place from where it will be easiest to remove the chimney.

It is also important to estimate the distance between the oven and windows and doors. After all, cold air blowing from the doors can interfere with the natural circulation of heat in the house, reducing the efficiency of the stove.

In addition, the stove should not interfere with free movement around the room. It should become one with the space, without creating inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the furnace depends on the purpose.

The heating and cooking model is best placed in the kitchen, and the fireplace stove will look beautiful in the living room.

• The distance to the nearest wall must be at least 25 cm.
• The chimney must not pass through the beams.
• The floor and wall will have to be lined with fire-resistant material.
• The fireplace is best located near the inner wall of the house. To increase efficiency, it makes sense to install the stove in the space between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, one stove will heat two rooms at once.

An excellent place to place the stove is the corner of the room, only if there is no opposite corner Entrance door from which cold air will blow out the flame.

Step 4. Building the foundation

For the construction of a brick oven, it is necessary to make a separate foundation. If it is laid on the same cycle with the construction of a house, it is not a difficult task to complete it.

If you have decided to lay the stove after the completion of the general construction, then it will be necessary to remove part of the finished floor and go deep into the ground.

Why is it so important to carry out a separate foundation? A brick oven, no matter what size it is, has a lot of weight, which will create a lot of pressure on the foundation. When shrinking, the house will sag. This should in no way affect the shape and design of the oven.

That is, the general foundation of the house should not pull the stove along with it, as this can lead to a violation of its sealing and deterioration of technical properties.

Attention! Before laying bricks on the mortar, lay out the entire brick "dry". First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, even at the draft stage, you will be able to see difficult moments that you will have to pay special attention to.

Step 5. Laying the stove

Attention! Before laying the stove, dip the bricks in a bowl of cold water to absorb moisture. So they will not pull water from the masonry mortar.

Fill this gap with sand. The entire under the stove will practically be occupied by grates, which will ensure good and simple maintenance of the stove, as well as complete burning of firewood.

We block the door of the blower with a brick.

Installing the furnace door

We install the furnace door, after wrapping it with an asbestos cord. To make it easier to mount it, put the door on a thick wire and support it with bricks on both sides. Then these bricks will need to be removed.

• 6th row. Closes the furnace door.

Here we begin to form a smoke channel pipe, creating overlaps for two vertical channels.

We lay the base of the firebox, which we make of fireclay bricks.

• From row 7-9 we lay out the firebox with fireclay bricks according to the scheme.

In this row, the two bricks that overlap the grate should be cut at a 45 degree angle.

• 10 row - close the oven. We create a partition from a brick, raising it by 2 cm. On the oven, to the level of the partition, we apply a clay-sand mortar. We are preparing a place for the installation of the hob.

It is necessary to make recesses in the bricks for reliable fixation with the slab and create thermal niches for the expansion of the metal. Immediately put the slab on a dry slab and number the bricks - so it will be easy for you to later lay the brick on the mortar and not make a mistake with the correct recesses under the slab.

We lay the asbestos strip on the brick (to expand the metal).

Step 6. Chimney outlet through the roof

This is a responsible step, which should ensure the complete safety of the operation of the furnace.

Be guided by the norms of SNIP when removing a brick pipe through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and the chimney must be at least 13-25 cm.

Around the place where the pipe passes through the roof, it is necessary to perform insulation thermal insulation materials. This will provide reliable protection against blowing cold air and ensure reliable fire safety.

If the oven is installed in a residential building with a finished roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roof. After the pipe is wired, it will be necessary to fully ensure the integrity of the roof in this place so that during rain or snow, moisture does not get inside.

For waterproofing a stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The joining of the slate and the metal plate is carried out using a sealant.

If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to complete with steel pipes sandwich type. They are stylish and easy to assemble. In addition, they have much less weight than bricks and will not create such pressure on the foundation.

When determining the required height of the chimney, be guided not only by the height of the roof, but also by the height of the ridge.

The efficiency of space heating and the presence of traction directly depend on correctly calculated parameters.

The edge of the pipe must protrude above the “ridge” of the roof by at least 0.5 meters, otherwise the turbulences that form around the roof can prevent good draft and will constantly blow cold air into the chimney.

We complete the construction of the chimney - a metal grate. It will prevent debris from entering the chimney.

From above we put on a metal cap, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7 Furnace lining

There are many ways to beautifully veneer a stove for a summer residence.

Clinker tiles, tile tiles, decorative plaster, fake diamond etc.

Or you can just leave the stove in its original form, especially if you bought a high-quality beautiful brick.

Keep in mind that any facing material reduces heat transfer. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the stove with a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Kindling the furnace

After the complete lining of the furnace, it is necessary to take a technological break for 10-14 days until the structure is completely dried. Leave the door wide open.

When you are sure that the masonry mortar is completely dry, you can carry out the first test kindling of the stove. No need to rush and immediately, after laying, kindle firewood.

Premature kindling of a damp stove can cause it to crack. For the first time, use ¼ of the wood, lay small logs. This will allow the structure to dry well from the inside. Do not exceed maximum temperature at 60-65 degrees in the first week of operation.

• Do not use trash for kindling.
• The firebox door must be closed when kindling.
• Warm up the oven gradually, do not immediately give a strong heat.
• Use high-quality, well-dried firewood.

For the convenience of using a country stove, you can make a stylish one with your own hands, which will become a decorative and functional element in everyday life.

As you can see, if you follow a clear ordering scheme, it is not so difficult to put together a beautiful and solid country stove.

Video: Laying a dry brick oven

Below we present detailed wizard class on laying a brick oven for a summer residence.

Video. Master class on laying a stove for a summer residence

© When using site materials (quotes, images), the source must be indicated.

A typical case when a simple stove is needed is a cottage that provides additional income to the family budget. In the spring it is still cold, but work is already needed to leave. It is still cold in autumn, but seasonal work still needs to be completed. Even if you travel without spending the night, you need to cook food and warm up a little. Dilute? It will take a lot of fairly high-quality fuel. A fire needs constant supervision and in general it is far from always possible to breed it according to fire safety requirements. On a windy day, a fire is of little use at all - the flame blows away. The simplest stove from improvised materials will help out - you can achieve thermal efficiency is more than 40%, while at the fire it is a few percent; at best 10-15%.

The second case when a simple oven is needed is temporary housing. For example, a utility block or a change house, for example, at a construction site capital house. Buy or make your own steel furnace? Expensive, difficult, time consuming. Yes, and steel furnaces are heated harshly, they do not keep the heat for long. A simple brick stove will come in handy here, which can be installed in a day or two, which does not need to dry for a long time before starting, and whose weight allows you to put it on an ordinary plank floor without a foundation. Furnaces for such and similar cases are discussed in this article.

Note: a simple stove is heated in a black way or its chimney from tin pipes is led out through the window, because. according to all the rules, immediately removes the furnace from the category of simple ones.

What does simple mean?

• A person constructing such a furnace does not have to be deeply versed in the furnace business. Ideally, he does not need to understand anything about it at all;
• The furnace must operate on low-quality waste fuel with a thermal efficiency (this is an analogue of the efficiency of thermal engines) of at least 35-40%;
• A brick oven should not require long-term drying after construction and “accelerating” furnaces to bring it to its rated thermal power;
• It should also consist of no more than 115-120 bricks, so that all the necessary materials can be brought at a time in the trunk passenger car or on a trailer to it;
• Furnace accessories (doors, hobs, burners) should be the most common (so that you can use used ones) and / or cheap;
• The laying of a brick oven should not contain complex joints, sawn (cut by a grinder) bricks, transitions from red brick to fireclay and steel mortgages.

Easier than what is impossible

The simplest stove for mostly outdoor use can be made in just a matter of minutes from improvised materials. However, the stove will turn out to be quite effective.

The simplest cooking stove from a leaky bucket (see the figure below) more than once rescued the author in a variety of circumstances, incl. coped with heating in a black change house without a ceiling under gable roof- there was a portage window under the ridge. The baking sheet serves as a catcher for falling coals; if the stove is used indoors, a fire-resistant lining must be placed under it, for example, a few more bricks. There is no need to completely tear the bottom out of the bucket - just turn it around so that the hole is approx. 6 cm in diameter (width somewhere in the palm of your hand).

The good thermal efficiency of this stove is determined by the fact that it partially uses the surface combustion of wood fuel. As you know, it is during surface combustion that wood releases the maximum possible amount of heat. In addition, dry high-quality fuel (chips, shavings) is needed only for kindling, and its main load can be damp. Also, not completely dry branches and chips can be placed later, they dry quickly in the stove.

This stove works quite interestingly. Without cooking utensils on the “burner”, smoke comes out of the upper hole at first. As the bucket warms up (about 10 minutes), it is replaced by a not strong flow of not very hot gases. If the stove will be used repeatedly, its start-up time can be reduced by coating a bucket with clay with dry grass (you can use adobe if you already have it mixed). The first time after coating, the furnace accelerates for a long time, up to an hour, until the “phytoconcrete” dries out, but then it enters the operating mode in less than 5 minutes.

But if you put a frying pan, a pot or a pan on the “burner”, the course of the furnace changes dramatically. The burning of the fuel intensifies and after 1-2 minutes, flames appear from under the vessel. It seems that the cookware keeps not completely burnt flue gases from rapid dispersion, and the influx fresh air under the burner initiates their burning out. As a result, the stove at +5 outside warmed up the room with a volume of approx. 10 cu. m to a comfortable temperature in half an hour. Her the disadvantage is that it does not keep heat and continuous supervision is needed, like a fire.

Note: in essence, this stove is a modification of a fire in a trench. The thermal efficiency already characteristic of furnaces is achieved by the absence of heat losses from burning fuel into the ground.

The simplest outdoor stove for a summer residence can also be folded dry for minutes from bricks, without mortar. Any bricks are suitable, incl. silicate, but gas blocks cannot be used - they literally crumble before our eyes. Surface combustion and afterburning of exhaust gases in this one take place less than in the previous one, but due to better thermal insulation from the sides and bottom, the stove turns out to be less voracious. It will take only 9 or 14 bricks for it, depending on whether the furnace will be single-tier or 2-tier. How the simplest brick oven without mortar is arranged is shown in the following. rice. All bricks are ordinary red workers, and those standing upright are highlighted in color just for clarity. The advantage of this stove over the bucket stove is that you can put two dishes on the “burner”, the efficiency of the stove only increases from this. Disadvantage - if both vessels are quite voluminous and filled cold water, until the water is heated to approx. 70-75 degrees, the stove burns and smokes unimportantly.

Note: according to a similar thermal scheme, it is also possible to build a brick oven without surface combustion, with a grate and a blower in 5-10 minutes. Its thermal efficiency will decrease slightly, but the heat transfer (hourly heat output) will increase, i.e. the stove will heat not so long, but stronger. See the video below for more details:

Video: a simple do-it-yourself brick oven

Simple but long lasting

The furnaces described are temporary in the full sense of the word - after the need has passed, they are dismantled without a trace as simply as they were made. However, in a utility dacha or in a household block of private households, a brick oven with masonry mortar may be needed, comparable in thermal efficiency to a house oven (60-75%), but suitable for building directly on the floor without a foundation. The first thing you need for this is an oven masonry mortar. A ready-made dry mortar for laying stoves or stove glue is, of course, technologically simple, but by no means at a price, so you can study the material about.

The next point to consider is the weight load from the oven to the floor. An ordinary plank floor can withstand 250 kgf / sq. m, but it is unrealistic to build a “real” such a light brick oven. Nevertheless, it is still possible to put a brick oven without a foundation on the floor in a light frame structure, provided that the oven is only and only on the ground floor, see below.

In terms of weight, in this case, the well-known summer stove of 200 bricks is more or less suitable (see the figure below). It weighs (without fuel and utensils) approx. 890 kg, and its bearing area is 0.736 sq. m, i.e. the weight load from it is 1209 kgf. However, you can’t bring the materials for this stove in one car trip, the design is complicated for beginners, and the oven (3 in the figure below) and the hot water tank (4) are superfluous for a simple stove (other designations: 1 - furnace door; 2 - blower door; 5 - cleaning door).

A simple brick oven, the drawings and ordering of which are given on the next. Fig., weighs 540 kg. The reduction in the number of bricks to 118 was achieved by abandoning the oven with a water heater, as well as another, less convenient, cleaning arrangement. Support area 0.468 sq. m; weight load 1154 kgf. Although the pressure from this furnace on the floor has not decreased much, all the materials for it can be brought in a single trip by a passenger car, and the bricks can be made with a spike (butt) or a locksmith's hammer and chisel. Thermal efficiency and heat dissipation remained about the same, approx. 60% and 700 kcal/hour.

Note: a thermal efficiency of 60% is not such a bad figure. For example, the efficiency of household burners gas stoves budget and medium price segments is 60-65%. That's what it would not hurt to think about before offering / demanding an increase in gas prices. Unfortunately, the world economy is increasingly leaning from commodity to resource, and economists are less and less thinking about technical capabilities and for the long term.

Single-burner oven, the order of which is shown in fig. right, weighs approx. 400 kg, and its construction requires 87 bricks. Support area - 0.326 sq. m. The pressure on the floor from this stove is approx. of the same, still acceptable value - 1225 kgf, but, transporting materials for it, you can take another passenger, a certain amount of agricultural equipment or other payload into the car.

How to distribute the load

A reader familiar with construction may say: ask (option: “Yes you ...”), 1.2 ton-force per square plank floor - how is that? See above: "provided that the stove will be only and only on the first floor." And if the floor is arranged correctly.

Recall: the logs of the wooden floor should rest on the supporting pillars. It is recommended to keep the pitch of the supporting pillars within 0.9-1.7 m, but not more than this value. The lags themselves are timber from 150x75, and the thickness of the floor boards should be from 30 mm (it is better to set 40 mm with a simple tongue and groove). In this case, a local load of 1300 and even 1400 kgf can be placed on the floor, even if it is simple without insulation, i.e. no subfloor.

How exactly you need to put a simple brick oven on the floor without a foundation is shown in fig. below. The essence, it will be assumed, is clear: furnaces, oblong in plan, are placed between the supporting pillars so that the floor lag falls on the longitudinal axis of the furnace. The stoves are rather square in plan and generally compact, placing them on a pillar with their geometric center.

The fire protection blind area in all cases is arranged in the same way: sheet asbestos with a thickness of 8 mm, and on it a sheet of roofing steel with a thickness of 2 mm. Clay-impregnated felt, as in fig. with the device of the furnace-rude, this is the day before yesterday: expensive, hard, less reliable.

Unconventional approach

In the USA and Southern Canada, the so-called. , in fact, has nothing to do with jet thrust. We don't have much respect for her. Perhaps because, firstly, it is not easy to understand how a rocket oven works with simple common sense. Secondly, because the rocket stove is fired with small-sized fuel or a torch, the preparation of which is laborious, and the very process of its firing is unusual. However, in countries where firewood “from the forest, of course” can get by with a serious prison term, the latter circumstance fades into the background, and in a country house or construction site, thrown with lumber waste, it can come to the fore. Moreover, a simple rocket oven boils, fries, boils no worse than those described, but it removes the problems of weight loads and transportation of materials: to build a rocket cooking oven, it is enough ... 20 bricks, see for example. video clip:

Video: a simple rocket-type oven of 20 bricks

Note: if any of the described furnaces is built at an outside temperature of at least +20 degrees, then it will take only a week to dry it before the first start at the same temperature.

Since ancient times, heating and cooking stoves have been present in homes. They acted as the main component of any rural house. Nowadays, people living in private houses in the city also do not refuse to install this structure. It has not lost its functionality, so it is actively used by many.

Even if the house has a heating system that runs on gas or electricity, many people do not want to turn it on at full capacity on autumn days when the house gets cool. In this case, the stove will help to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the home. It is enough to throw a few logs into the firebox and the house will become warm pretty quickly.

If you decide to acquire this structure in your home, then the task of its construction must be approached with all seriousness because the oven is built to last for decades. It does not matter whether you are building a do-it-yourself heating stove or a stove with a stove. Therefore, if mistakes are made during the construction process, it will be extremely difficult to correct them later.

Speaking about furnaces, we note that they are divided into structures for one- and two-storey houses. The main difference between them is the height. The building being erected can have a stove or be used only for heating. In the second case, the slab is absent in it as an integral element. The height of the do-it-yourself oven depends on the number of rows in the scheme. Next, we will take a closer look at how to build a do-it-yourself oven with a stove in a private house.

masonry materials

Calculation of materials is extremely important point when laying the oven with your own hands. In addition, the quality of the structure affects its service life. The stovetop stove we are reviewing in this article usually measures 90 x 90 cm at the base. As for its height, the structure does not reach its upper point to the ceiling of the first floor by 2.1 m.

Before starting work on the construction of the furnace with your own hands, need to purchase materials in sufficient quantities to be used in its construction. During the work it is necessary:

• red brick M150 in the amount of 1085 pieces;
• silicate brick for the construction of the furnace 150 pcs. Instead, you can use fireclay;
• sand - 80-100 buckets;
• clay -200 kg;
• corner 50 × 50 mm and 40x40 mm;
• steel wire 2 mm - 25 m;
• metal sheet 4 mm 1.5 × 1.5 m;
• roofing material -3 m;
• asbestos cord 5 mm - 10 m;
• wall insulation material.

The construction of the foundation also requires the preparation of appropriate materials:

• sand;
• cement;
• fittings;
• crushed stone;
• formwork boards.

In addition, to build a full-fledged stove with a do-it-yourself stove, which can be used to heat your home and cook, you will need to purchase cast-iron parts:

• grate -1 pc.;
• hob with two burners - 1 pc.;
• gate valves - 3 pcs.;
• two doors for the combustion chamber and the blower, 1 each;
• doors for cleaning - 5 pcs.

After the materials are prepared and the builder has the necessary tools at his disposal, you can proceed to the active phase of work.

Foundation

Accepting the fact that the structure being erected has a large mass, when building a foundation with your own hands perform its deepening not less than 80 cm. However, when conducting foundation work, one should take into account the climatic features of the area of ​​​​residence, as well as the depth of freezing. You can find out about this from local builders. Given all these points, a do-it-yourself oven built according to the chosen scheme will last a long time.

The foundation pit for the foundation being laid should have a square shape. As for its dimensions, they should be 1.2 × 1.2 m. You can easily dig it with your own hands by resorting to hand tool- shovel.

After completion of excavation work, the bottom of the pit is compacted. Then at her bottom making a pillow of sand, for which it is important to withstand optimal thickness a layer equal to 10-15 cm. Next, crushed stone is poured with a layer of 15 cm, which, after laying it, must be compacted, and then the formwork should be installed. This must be done with the expectation that it will pass through the entire thickness of the foundation.

The foundation for the future furnace is poured in several stages. The first layers may consist of mortar, which is made from cement and pebbles. The top layer must be poured with concrete made from sand and cement. Taking into account the weight of the structure, the solidification of the foundation should take a long time, at least three weeks. This is important, because otherwise the stove, built with your own hands, even according to the chosen scheme, won't last long. A crack in the foundation will lead to the need for repairs.

When the base of the furnace with the slab has gained sufficient strength, the formwork is removed, and upper part the foundation is covered with waterproofing material- three layers of roofing material. The first do-it-yourself brick laying will be carried out further on it.

Compared to a fireplace, the design of a do-it-yourself stove with a stove is more complex. Therefore, the construction scheme must be strictly observed.

Due to the fact that the area of ​​​​the foundation is larger than the base, markings should be made on the waterproofing. After that, you can proceed to the laying of the first row.

If a vertical laying pattern is used, then it must be remembered that the chimney channels should not be too narrow. Their minimum size is 13 × 13 centimeters.

The ordinal scheme for laying out a heating and cooking stove assumes the following: already from the first rows of masonry, a blower chamber should be provided in its scheme. When the laying of the second row begins, the blower door is installed, which, before being installed in the opening intended for it, is wrapped with an asbestos cord.

When installing the door, a wire is wound to it, which is clamped between two bricks. When it is completely framed with masonry, the wire is bent to the sides.

When they reach the laying of the fourth row of the furnace, holes are indicated on it, designed for the circulation of heated air. On the fifth, the grate of the firebox is laid. When constructing the wall of the furnace and its threshold, it is permissible to use silicate bricks.

Installation of the furnace door is carried out on the sixth row. She, like the blower, is wrapped with an asbestos cord.

From rows 6 to 10, special attention must be paid to the shape of the holes that will ensure the movement of air inside the structure. The tenth row, if possible, must be fastened with a frame welded from a corner. On the 11th row, a hob is placed on a pre-laid asbestos gasket.

The corner is laid on the seventeenth row. The 18th row of masonry will fall on it, which will complete the framing of the chamber above the slab.

On the 19-20th rows of masonry is formed drying chamber. On the 19th row, the cleaning door is installed.

Once again, the metal corner is laid on the 24th row of masonry. On him a continuous row of bricks will be laid, which will become the ceiling of the dryer.

The door for cleaning is installed on the 25th row.

On the 30th row, two valves are being installed.

All subsequent rows up to the 38th are performed according to the scheme, and the next ones form part of the furnace, which goes to the second floor. Note that this part of the furnace has a different numbering in order. Its laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

• door installation is carried out on the 2nd-3rd row. It is used for cleaning;
• installation of a chimney valve is carried out on the 27th row;
• the part of the stove installed on the second floor should be in the form of a wide chimney. It must be equipped with a valve and a chamber. Gradually it is replaced by a narrow pipe, which begins at the level of the 32nd row.

An umbrella is put on the upper part of the pipe, which prevents dust and moisture from entering it.

Schemes of furnaces

Furnaces that are built in private houses with their own hands can currently be divided into two groups:

• modern devices;
• obsolete structures.

Do-it-yourself buildings of an outdated type are not a problem to build. However, they have an imperfect design, so most often in houses they put stoves with a stove that differ in their functionality.

If you decide to build a stove with a stove in your house or just a building for heating with your own hands, then you need to seriously approach the task of choosing them. Familiarization with the advantages of furnaces of different designs will allow you to make right choice. If a private house already has a stove with an old-style stove, then in this case there is no need to build a structure from scratch. It is enough to redo it and you will have at your disposal equipment for heating and cooking.

To avoid mistakes during the rework process, you should first familiarize yourself with the video and various instructions on how professionals do this work. Also during the work it is necessary to use drawings. Applying the knowledge gained, you can get a good result at the end of the work - you will have a stove with a stove, built by yourself.

One of the common types of ovens is a two-story one. If we talk about its device, then, we note that it consists of two structures- one is on top of the other. Each of the parts of this structure has dimensions of 165x51x238 cm. During operation of the furnace, heat transfer in the lower part is 3200 kcal / h, and in the upper part - 2600 kcal / h.

When building such a structure with your own hands, two structures are separated from each other by means of brickwork with voids. it allows you to reduce the weight of the furnace and save during its construction a certain amount of material. The lining, which is used to fill the space between the upper and lower furnace, also acts as the basis for the first structure.

Both the upper furnace and the lower one have the same design. In the case under consideration, a channelless smoke circulation system is implemented. Once in the firebox, the gases move into the upper cap, which is equipped with a special nozzle. After the gases cool down, they sink to the bottom to the level of the firebox. Then they go into the chimney through the liner.

At the lower furnace, the chimney runs in the upper part, so the heating surface is smaller. The upper structure has a separate chimney. The process of its laying does not contain difficult moments. The scheme of gas movement is also simple. AT back wall there is a door through which the lower structure must be cleaned. Cleaning the top structure must be through the door. located in the side wall. The fuel for the double deck oven can be either hard coal or anthracite. Each of the pipes created in this furnace is additionally equipped with a valve.

A reinforced concrete slab is often used to cover the top of voids. This overlapping option provides stability, and in addition makes the design of the furnace as a whole more stable. When performing masonry of such a volume, errors should be excluded. Indeed, in the event of their occurrence, repair will be extremely difficult.

With great attention should be approached to the device of the chimney located in the lower structure of the furnace. If there are leaks in the masonry, then in this case may experience heat leakage from the wall which separates the pipes on the second floor. Note that this will also happen when the smoke dampers are closed.

Ovens with a stove or any other type can be combined into any array, regardless of whether they have a square or rectangular shape. The type of fuel doesn't really matter either. For a country house, a do-it-yourself stove can become ideal option heating.

An oven of this design has dimensions of 102x102x238 cm. If we talk about its heat transfer during operation, then it is 4200 kcal per hour.

One of its important parts, the firebox, has a great height in the design of this furnace. The symmetrical arrangement is also characteristic of its side openings, which serve to remove gas through the side chambers of the furnace walls located on the sides of the structure. Once there, the gas descends through the chambers, the connection of which is provided by a special channel located under the firebox.

Gases enter the risers from each side chamber through the lower vents. Then they rise to the side chambers located at the top. All together they form the top cap, which has three U-shaped cavities in its composition.

The cavities are parallel to each other. Having got up, the gas will linger in the middle and rear cavities of the cap, and after its cooling, it will pass into the front plane along the lower part. The front plane is connected to the plug-in type chimney. From there, the gas will escape into the atmosphere.

The design of this furnace has three hoods: the top and 2 large chambers. If we talk about the type of fuel that can be used in the construction of this structure, we note that it can be any. For laying out the walls of the firebox during the construction of the furnace, refractory bricks should be used.

The stove in the house is a good help in creating a comfortable microclimate with minimal cost. She is can act as main system home heating or be used as an additional heat source. The construction of this structure does not have to be entrusted to a specialist. You yourself can build a stove in your house if you study all the nuances of building a stove. High-quality performance of work will allow you to get a furnace that will give off heat well and will last for decades.