How to lay out the oven with your own hands. Schemes of laying brick ovens. Baby oven with stove and oven

10.11.2019

Since ancient times, heating and cooking stoves have been present in homes. They acted as the main component of any rural house. Nowadays, people living in private houses in the city also do not refuse to install this structure. It has not lost its functionality, so it is actively used by many.

Even if the house has a heating system that runs on gas or electricity, many people do not want to turn it on at full capacity on autumn days when the house gets cool. In this case, the stove will help to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the home. It is enough to throw a few logs into the firebox and the house will become warm pretty quickly.

If you decide to acquire this structure in your home, then the task of its construction must be approached with all seriousness because the oven is built to last for decades. It does not matter whether you are building a do-it-yourself heating stove or a stove with a stove. Therefore, if mistakes are made during the construction process, it will be extremely difficult to correct them later.

Speaking about furnaces, we note that they are divided into structures for one- and two-storey houses. The main difference between them is the height. The building being erected can have a stove or be used only for heating. In the second case, the slab is absent in it as an integral element. The height of the do-it-yourself oven depends on the number of rows in the scheme. Next, we will take a closer look at how to build a do-it-yourself oven with a stove in a private house.

masonry materials

Calculation of materials is extremely important point when laying the oven with your own hands. In addition, the quality of the structure affects its service life. The stovetop stove we are reviewing in this article usually measures 90 x 90 cm at the base. As for its height, the structure does not reach its upper point to the ceiling of the first floor by 2.1 m.

Before starting work on the construction of the furnace with your own hands, need to purchase materials in sufficient quantities to be used in its construction. During the work it is necessary:

red brick M150 in the amount of 1085 pieces;
silicate brick for the construction of the furnace 150 pcs. Instead, you can use fireclay;
sand - 80-100 buckets;
clay -200 kg;
corner 50 × 50 mm and 40x40 mm;
steel wire 2 mm - 25 m;
metal sheet 4 mm 1.5 × 1.5 m;
roofing material -3 m;
asbestos cord 5 mm - 10 m;
wall insulation material.

The construction of the foundation also requires the preparation of appropriate materials:

sand;
cement;
fittings;
crushed stone;
formwork boards.

In addition, to build a full-fledged stove with a do-it-yourself stove, which can be used to heat your home and cook, you will need to purchase cast-iron parts:

grate -1 pc.;
hob with two burners - 1 pc.;
gate valves - 3 pcs.;
two doors for the combustion chamber and the blower, 1 each;
doors for cleaning - 5 pcs.

After the materials have been prepared and the builder has the right tools, you can proceed to the active phase of work.

Foundation

Accepting the fact that the structure being erected has a large mass, when building a foundation with your own hands perform its deepening not less than 80 cm. However, when conducting foundation work, one should take into account the climatic features of the area of residence, as well as the depth of freezing. You can find out about this from local builders. Given all these points, a do-it-yourself oven built according to the chosen scheme will last a long time.

The foundation pit for the foundation to be built must have square shape. As for its dimensions, they should be 1.2 × 1.2 m. You can easily dig it with your own hands by resorting to hand tool- shovel.

After completion of excavation work, the bottom of the pit is compacted. Then at her bottom making a pillow of sand, for which it is important to withstand optimal thickness layer equal to 10-15 cm. Next, crushed stone is poured with a layer of 15 cm, which, after laying it, must be tamped, and then the formwork should be installed. This must be done with the expectation that it will pass through the entire thickness of the foundation.

The foundation for the future furnace is poured in several stages. The first layers may consist of mortar, which is made from cement and pebbles. The top layer must be poured with concrete made from sand and cement. Taking into account the weight of the structure, the solidification of the foundation should take a long time, at least three weeks. This is important, because otherwise the stove, built with your own hands, even according to the chosen scheme, won't last long. A crack in the foundation will lead to the need for repairs.

When the base of the furnace with the slab has gained sufficient strength, the formwork is removed, and upper part the foundation is covered with waterproofing material- three layers of roofing material. The first do-it-yourself brick laying will be carried out further on it.

Compared to a fireplace, the design of a do-it-yourself stove with a stove is more complex. Therefore, the construction scheme must be strictly observed.

Due to the fact that the area of the foundation is larger than the base, markings should be made on the waterproofing. After that, you can proceed to the laying of the first row.

If a vertical laying pattern is used, then it must be remembered that the chimney channels should not be too narrow. Their minimum size is 13 × 13 centimeters.

Ordinal scheme for laying out heating cooking oven suggests the following: already from the first rows of masonry, a blower chamber should be provided in its scheme. When the laying of the second row begins, the blower door is installed, which, before being installed in the opening intended for it, is wrapped with an asbestos cord.

When installing the door, a wire is wound to it, which is clamped between two bricks. When it is completely framed with masonry, the wire is bent to the sides.

When they reach the laying of the fourth row of the furnace, holes are indicated on it, designed for the circulation of heated air. On the fifth, the grate of the firebox is laid. When constructing the wall of the furnace and its threshold, it is permissible to use silicate bricks.

Installation of the furnace door is carried out on the sixth row. She, like the blower, is wrapped with an asbestos cord.

From rows 6 to 10, special attention must be paid to the shape of the holes that will ensure the movement of air inside the structure. The tenth row, if possible, must be fastened with a frame welded from a corner. On the 11th row, a pre-laid asbestos gasket is placed hob.

The corner is laid on the seventeenth row. The 18th row of masonry will fall on it, which will complete the framing of the chamber above the slab.

On the 19-20th rows of masonry is formed drying chamber. On the 19th row, the cleaning door is installed.

Once again, the metal corner is laid on the 24th row of masonry. On him a continuous row of bricks will be laid, which will become the ceiling of the dryer.

The door for cleaning is installed on the 25th row.

On the 30th row, two valves are being installed.

All subsequent rows up to the 38th are performed according to the scheme, and the next ones form part of the furnace, which goes to the second floor. Note that this part of the furnace has a different numbering in order. Its laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

door installation is carried out on the 2nd-3rd row. It is used for cleaning;
installation of a chimney valve is carried out on the 27th row;
the part of the stove installed on the second floor should be in the form of a wide chimney. It must be equipped with a valve and a chamber. Gradually it is replaced by a narrow pipe, which begins at the level of the 32nd row.

An umbrella is put on the upper part of the pipe, which prevents dust and moisture from entering it.

Schemes of furnaces

Furnaces that are built in private houses with their own hands can currently be divided into two groups:

modern devices;
obsolete structures.

Do-it-yourself buildings of an outdated type are not a problem to build. However, they have an imperfect design, so most often in houses they put stoves with a stove that differ in their functionality.

If you decide to build a stove with a stove in your house or just a building for heating with your own hands, then you need to seriously approach the task of choosing them. Familiarization with the advantages of furnaces of different designs will allow you to make right choice. If a private house already has a stove with an old-style stove, then in this case there is no need to build a structure from scratch. It is enough to redo it and you will have at your disposal equipment for heating and cooking.

To avoid mistakes during the rework process, you should first familiarize yourself with the video and various instructions on how professionals do this work. Also during the work it is necessary to use drawings. Applying the knowledge gained, you can get a good result at the end of the work - you will have a stove with a stove, built by yourself.

One of the common types of ovens is a two-story one. If we talk about its device, then, we note that it consists of two structures- one is on top of the other. Each of the parts of this structure has dimensions of 165x51x238 cm. During operation of the furnace, heat transfer in the lower part is 3200 kcal / h, and in the upper part - 2600 kcal / h.

When building such a structure with your own hands, two structures are separated from each other by means of brickwork with voids. This is allows you to reduce the weight of the furnace and save during its construction a certain amount of material. The lining, which is used to fill the space between the upper and lower furnace, also acts as the basis for the first structure.

Both the upper furnace and the lower one have the same design. In the case under consideration, a channelless smoke circulation system is implemented. Once in the firebox, the gases move into the upper cap, which is equipped with a special nozzle. After the gases cool down, they sink to the bottom to the level of the firebox. Then they go into the chimney through the liner.

At the lower furnace, the chimney runs in the upper part, so the heating surface is smaller. The upper structure has a separate chimney. The process of its laying does not contain difficult moments. The scheme of gas movement is also simple. AT back wall there is a door through which the lower structure must be cleaned. Cleaning the top structure must be through the door. located in the side wall. The fuel for the double deck oven can be either hard coal or anthracite. Each of the pipes created in this furnace is additionally equipped with a valve.

A reinforced concrete slab is often used to cover the top of voids. This overlapping option provides stability, and in addition makes the design of the furnace as a whole more stable. When performing masonry of such a volume, errors should be excluded. Indeed, in the event of their occurrence, repair will be extremely difficult.

With great attention should be approached to the device of the chimney located in the lower structure of the furnace. If there are leaks in the masonry, then in this case may experience heat leakage from the wall which separates the pipes on the second floor. Note that this will also happen when the smoke dampers are closed.

Ovens with a stove or any other type can be combined into any array, regardless of whether they have a square or rectangular shape. The type of fuel doesn't really matter either. For country house a do-it-yourself oven can become ideal option heating.

An oven of this design has dimensions of 102x102x238 cm. If we talk about its heat transfer during operation, then it is 4200 kcal per hour.

One of its important parts, the firebox, has a great height in the design of this furnace. The symmetrical arrangement is also characteristic of its side openings, which serve to remove gas through the side chambers of the furnace walls located on the sides of the structure. Once there, the gas descends through the chambers, the connection of which is provided by a special channel located under the firebox.

Gases enter the risers from each side chamber through the lower vents. Then they rise to the side chambers located at the top. All together they form the top cap, which has three U-shaped cavities in its composition.

The cavities are parallel to each other. Having got up, the gas will linger in the middle and rear cavities of the cap, and after its cooling, it will pass into the front plane along the lower part. With chimney mounted type connects the front plane. From there, the gas will escape into the atmosphere.

The design of this furnace provides for three caps: the top and 2 large chambers. If we talk about the type of fuel that can be used in the construction of this structure, we note that it can be any. For laying out the walls of the firebox during the construction of the furnace, refractory bricks should be used.

The stove in the house is a good help in creating a comfortable microclimate with minimal cost. She is can act as main system home heating or be used as an additional heat source. The construction of this structure does not have to be entrusted to a specialist. You yourself will be able to build a stove in your house if you study all the nuances of building a stove. High-quality performance of work will allow you to get a furnace that will give off heat well and will last for decades.

A brick oven in a private house or country house can always perform several functions, such as heating and cooking. But most often the construction of a brick oven is carried out for one purpose - to constantly maintain heat in the house. In order for the heating of the room to be carried out efficiently (regardless of its size), and fuel consumption to remain moderate, you should know not only design features brick ovens, but correct order her buildings. Also, special attention should be paid to the choice of building material. How to fold a simple brick oven with your own hands can be found further.

Furnaces should be accurately distinguished according to the principle of use, which are divided into:

Red brick heating stoves. They are used most often, since with their help you can heat up to 100 m 2 of the room. The dimensions of the furnace can be quite large.

heating stove

Cooking ovens. They are used exclusively for cooking, of course, while spreading a certain heat around.
Combined brick. Such a brick oven can be used for both cooking and heating. Very convenient, for example, in the country or in a country house.

Combination oven example

Fireplace options. A brick fireplace stove is not widely used, but some owners are trying to give old stoves exactly the look of a fireplace, saving space. Used for space heating or as decorative option fire source.

Fireplace version of a brick stove

To find out the main structural elements and dimensions of a red brick oven, for example, you should take the most popular option - combined (hob and brick oven for heating a house or cottage).

The structure of the combined brick oven:

Firebox. This is the place in the Russian stove where the combustion of fuel takes place. Since the temperature in this place is constantly high, the materials should be selected accordingly.
It blew. A free cavity, which is laid out of brick directly under the firebox. The main function is the accumulation of ash and small unburned residues. Also, air enters the furnace through the blower, which improves the quality of fuel combustion.
Channels for removing smoke from the furnace. One of the most difficult parts of the oven. Passing through the channels, the combustion products give off part of the heat to the brick, which subsequently heats the room.
Chimney. Releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere. It also provides the draft necessary for combustion in a Russian stove.
Tile. It is located in a place above the firebox and only in cooking or combination ovens.
Holes for cleaning. For greater convenience, they are mounted at the top of the chimney, this place allows you to clean it quickly and efficiently.

The foundation is the foundation of any building.

Like every solid building, a brick stove for a house must have its own foundation. The average weight of a brick oven is 1.5 tons, no more. Therefore, in the ground it will be enough to dig a trench up to 15-20 cm deep, which is approximately equal to one spade bayonet, and you can start building a brick oven with your own hands.

After the trench for the foundation is ready, formwork can be installed in it. The formwork is made from boards of any category with their own hands, the only condition is the absence of traces of decay. The structure should rise 10-15 cm above the ground. According to the rules, the basement of the foundation should be level with the floor, but many homeowners make it a little higher. The formwork walls can be fastened together with knitting needles.

A sand cushion is poured at the bottom of the trench. You don't need to use a lot of sand. A cement masonry mortar can be poured over the embankment, for which the following materials are required:

1/3 bucket of cement.
8 bayonet shovels sand.
Water (add until a thick cement slurry is formed). In case of accidental overflow of water, a little cement and sand should be added.

The first layer of cement will be 7-8 cm. Materials such as pieces of reinforcement or pre-welded reinforcing mesh should be laid on it. Next, the second layer is poured and reinforcement is also laid. Reinforcement will allow you to securely connect the entire structure and add strength to it. After pouring, the mortar must be allowed to dry, which can take up to several weeks.

2 layers of waterproofing should be laid on the finished foundation. It is not necessary to fix it, the brickwork will qualitatively press the waterproofing to the foundation.

Laying a brick oven with your own hands, step by step

With knowledge of the sequence of laying a simple brick oven and having the required tools at hand and building materials work may take several days. It takes the craftsmen no more than one day to build a brick oven.

The most responsible in the furnace is the first brick row, which is laid with a solid surface, without any cavities or technical holes. To set its level and correct angles, use: a square, building level and (if necessary) a tape measure. After finishing the laying of the first furnace level, it can be checked using a plumb line fixed on the ceiling in the room.

Construction of the first row brickwork

If you do not follow these recommendations and do not use a measuring tool, then the result may not correspond to the desired one: a row with curved walls, disproportionate corners, uneven surface. Then the furnace will have to be shifted, which will lead to additional waste of funds.

A whole oven brick is not always needed here, sometimes halves are enough. In order to prepare such pieces, you should use a grinder with a diamond wheel. Brick cannot be beaten with a hammer, it is too fragile and the pieces will turn out uneven.

You can see the entire process described above in more detail in the video:

The above sequence shows exactly that it is possible to fold a simple oven (which can withstand rising degrees) or a brick slab with your own hands, and this does not require complex tools or expensive building materials.

Ordering for a brick oven

Preparing a mortar for laying the furnace

Most often, clay mortar is used for laying a brick oven (or firebox), which you can prepare yourself (for example, for a cooking stove), it will not take much time for this. The following materials are needed for the firebox: clay, water, sand. Clay, before preparing the mortar for laying the furnace, must be soaked for at least 24 hours. After that, pure water, without mineral impurities, should be added to it. The resulting masonry mortar should be thick enough and resemble sour cream in consistency. The last ingredient is sand, it is added in small portions, constantly stirring the solution.

If the laying of a brick oven is carried out in accordance with all the rules, then the clay mortar is not suitable for the first row (the junction of the brick and the foundation), as well as for the chimney. This is due to the accumulation of moisture during continuous operation of the furnace. Clay is prone to absorbing water and with sudden changes in temperature gives a crack. Therefore, for these places it is better to use lime mortar.

The procedure for preparing lime mortar for a brick kiln:

Materials: quicklime, water, sand. Prepare a mass consisting of water and lime in a ratio of 3:1. In this case, it is necessary to add water to the lime and constantly stir the solution until a dough is formed. It is very important to use a protective mask and gloves when working with quicklime.
After preparing the dough for laying the oven, it should be crushed and sieved with high quality, getting rid of too large particles.
Sand is added to the sifted solution, the amount of which should be 3 times more lime.
Adding water will allow you to get a thick mass for laying a stove or a separate firebox. Now you can start building a real Russian stove. Some masters, for greater strength, add a small part of the cement to the solution.

A high-quality, but more expensive replacement for oven clay and lime mortar is cement mortar. Cement is characterized by increased strength, as well as resistance to temperature changes, it is most suitable for laying a stove used for heating a room, as well as a chimney or oven.

To prepare such a solution, sifted sand and cement are required. The ratio should be 1 portion of cement to 3 portions of sand. Having prepared a dry mortar (it is enough to mix cement and sand), water can be gradually added to it, but only in small portions. Having achieved the necessary consistency (the solution should become creamy), you can start laying a brick oven for a house or a summer residence. The main disadvantage of cement mortar for creating a do-it-yourself brick oven is that it should be used within one hour after preparation.

And another useful video for beginner stove-makers

No one private house does not do without a traditional heating and cooking stove made of bricks. And although today many houses are equipped with gas heating, most owners are in no hurry to abandon the brick oven, as it gives a special warmth - the warmth of the hearth, filling the home with comfort and a sense of calm. In addition, in regions rich in forests, you can significantly save on natural gas consumption by acquiring firewood.

The desire to make redevelopment in the house, including the transfer of the heating and cooking stove, can often rest on the nuances and subtleties of the stove business. You will learn how to fold the oven with your own hands in this material.

There are many types of furnaces, but not all are used in private construction.

Types of stoves for private houses:

heating(fireplaces, sauna heaters);
cooking(the oven is exclusively for cooking);
Universal(heating and cooking).

The latter variety is considered universal, therefore it is most common in private construction.

The device of the furnace and its properties

Reviewing sketches and designs brick ovens, and choosing a specific option, you should pay attention not so much to its external design as to its internal structure. The device of the heating and cooking furnace determines its performance, and ultimately its service life.

The internal design of the heating and cooking stove does not depend on the location of the appliance itself in the house. The kitchen stove can be located in the middle of the room, in the corner or against the wall.

The main structural elements of the heating and cooking furnace:

Shantsy (heat-air channels);
Ash pan (or blower);
grate (for connecting the firebox with the ash pan);
Under (slope to the grate);
combustion chamber;
Burnout (chimney);
The vault of the firebox (separates the combustion zone from the afterburning zone in the combustion chamber);
Air vent (hole through which heat enters the heated room);
outer wall;
Smoke circulation (Channel connecting the combustion chamber with the chimney);
overlap;
Chimney;
Indent (the space between the chimney and the stove);
Smoke dampers;
Heat dissipating walls.

The heat output of the furnace is determined by the amount of heat energy released by the furnace per hour, and depends on the amount of fuel used. Heat capacity (the ability to store heat from burned fuel) is measured in hours. Different stoves have different levels of heat capacity, which also depends on the degree of insulation of the walls and ceilings, windows and doors of the house.

The location of the stove in the house affects the amount of heat. A house with a stove in the middle will be warmer.

Russian stove and its device

A Russian brick oven is installed on the foundation, since its device is quite massive. In its design, the Russian stove includes a sub-stove used to store fuel, which dries in it and easily flares up when the stove is melted. The stove is closed with a vault-trough, on which the filling is poured on a solution of clay. The bottom of the cooking chamber is installed on top of the bedding.

The Russian stove has a special design, which differs significantly from the traditional heating and cooking stove in terms of heat transfer coefficient and other parameters. During heating, even for a short time, the Russian stove accumulates heat and is able to give it away for 24 hours.

In order for the Russian stove not to consume excessive amounts of fuel, not to smoke and not to cool down in a matter of hours, it is important to follow the exact masonry technology and dimensions that the scheme includes when installing it. Bricks forming internal organization ovens, hewn and polished so that the walls inside the hail are even and smooth.

Also in its design, the Russian stove includes a combustion chamber, which is its heart. The firebox is divided into a cooking chamber or a bakery and a firebox (crucible). The floor of the furnace has an inclined design, which must be made exactly according to the drawing when installing a Russian stove.

The crucible is the main secret that Russian cuisine hides. Some dishes after cooking should languish in the cooking chamber for a long time. It is not possible to achieve such an effect or create similar conditions for preparing dishes of Russian cuisine using a familiar hob or electric oven.

The main secret that distinguishes the Russian stove from the traditional one is the smoke channel. the simplest design, which is superior in efficiency to devices smoke channels other ovens.

Do-it-yourself Russian oven device (video)

Design choice

The choice of the type of furnace depends on the conditions of its operation:

Heating and cooking stove. If you are planning an intensive use of the stove in your home, it is better to choose a heating and cooking stove with a massive device and regular heating. In the device of such a furnace, its structure, consisting of many cold bricks, is first warmed up, then heat transfer begins.
The furnace is heating. For a house in the mountains or a summer residence, where permanent residence not planned, a fireplace will suffice. Although it has a small heat capacity (2 - 3 hours), it is able to warm up the room much faster than a massive stove. This design will allow you to quickly warm up in the cold season.

A brick heating stove can be installed with or without a foundation. The lightest construction is assembled into a quarter of a brick (the brick is placed on the edge). In order to give it strength - a frame made of metal corners is used. A massive oven requires a foundation, which should not be connected to the support of the building. In the case of a separate chimney, it also needs its own foundation.

Determining size and power

The level of heat transfer of the heating and cooking stove must exactly fulfill the possible heat losses, which depend on the temperature outside the house, as well as the degree of insulation of walls, windows, doors, and ceilings.

The size and design of the future furnace determines its power.

Furnace device. Where to begin?

The laying of any furnace cannot be started without a project or drawing, which should include the location and dimensions of the structure, as well as the chimney outlet without disturbing the supporting elements of the structure. It is also necessary to calculate the heat transfer coefficient of the furnace. The scheme or project of the future furnace is compiled on the basis of this calculation.

It is quite difficult to create a project or drawings of a heating and cooking stove on your own, so you can use the services of a design organization or information on the Internet.

Tools and materials

When the furnace project is approved, it is possible to prepare for its laying.

To fold the oven with your own hands, you must have on hand:

Stove-maker's hammer (trowel);
Master OK;
Building level and plumb lines;
measuring tape;
Cement-sand mortar;
Hand power tools (hammer drill, grinder, etc.);
Red brick;
Refractory brick (fired);
Facing brick;
Mortar for masonry of clay and sand;
Heat-insulating and moisture-proof materials;
Furnace fittings and appliances.

Do-it-yourself oven laying. All stages

Like any construction process, laying a stove with your own hands is done in stages.

Scheme this process includes the following items:

Foundation arrangement. The foundation can be laid not from a whole brick, but from a battlefield. The foundation is not used for all furnace structures, but if you are building a Russian or massive furnace, you cannot do without its device.

In no case should the support of the future furnace come into contact with the foundation of the building, since they have different settlements and in case of skew, the furnace may crack and its operation may be disrupted, and this is a fire hazard.

The depth of the foundation depends on the weight furnace design and its project, and the area of the support must exceed dimensions oven at least 5 cm around the perimeter. The foundation is leveled with burnt brickwork in two rows on cement mortar to floor level. When forming the first row of masonry, it is necessary to achieve a flat horizontal surface in accordance with the level, since the quality of the construction of the entire furnace will depend on it. This is followed by a layer of waterproofing, as a material for which ordinary roofing felt or roofing material can be used, the material is laid in two layers.

Furnace lining. The first row is laid out on top of the waterproofing. Brickwork from each row should be started without mortar, leaving gaps between the bricks equal to future seams (3 - 5 mm). Next, a mortar is laid in place of the corner brick and leveled with a trowel. The brick itself is immersed in water and kept there until all the air comes out. The “recessed” brick is removed from the water and correctly laid on the mortar with a trowel tapped on it for leveling. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.

The hearth is the heart of buildings not connected to centralized networks. It generates the heat necessary for life and provides energy for cooking. Both the microclimate in the building and the terms of its service directly depend on its performance and efficiency, and these are very important factors in the operation of the unit, do you agree?

The article presented by us details how to correctly build a brick oven for the house. Schemes for the construction of a hearth are given, technological nuances are thoroughly analyzed. We offer carefully selected, scrupulously verified, practice-proven information on selection and installation. brick ovens.

Novice stove-makers and owners of suburban property who want to control the work of hired craftsmen will be helped by the information we have proposed, based on building requirements. Photographs and video tutorials will be an excellent help in mastering the material.

It is not easy to understand the constructive abundance of brick ovens. However, owners of suburban real estate who want to equip the house with a brick unit should study this difficult issue. It is better to determine in advance the option that is optimal for its purpose and device than to rebuild and modernize.

The division of brick stoves into types is carried out according to the following aspects:

Appointment.
type of gas movement.
Performance.
Firebox frequency.
geometric data.

Ideally, an oven that is perfect for you personally is selected according to two or three of the most important criteria. We will analyze what should be attributed to aspects that are significant in your opinion, which will become the basis for choosing the optimal brick unit.

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Calculation of heat losses will make it possible to determine the productivity of the furnace, which should be slightly larger than the calculated value, but not more than 15%. If the power of the brick unit is greater than the specified limit, a different design should be selected.

To facilitate the process of choosing the most suitable brick oven for masonry in a low-rise building, nomograms have been developed. The graph below, which simplifies the calculations for the selection of the stove, was created for rooms with one external wall.

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Home heating in winter time with the help of stove heating is suitable for those who have Vacation home. For apartments, this method of heating is not very suitable. Unfortunately, it will be quite difficult to fold the stove with your own hands, but after carefully studying the masonry schemes for brick ovens, this is possible. If you want to save your time, it is better to turn to a professional in this matter - a stove maker. He will tell you which masonry is suitable in a particular case.

The main types and arrangement of brick ovens

1. Gate valve;
2. Cast iron plate;
3. Cleaning door;
4. Oven;
5. Firebox door;
6. The door blew.

There are two main types of brick ovens:

Heating stoves. The layout of the brickwork of the heating furnace is very simple, which is why laying does not take much time. Designed for space heating only.
The most common and popular type of stoves are heating and cooking. They allow you to both heat the house and cook food.

There are many schemes for bricklaying furnaces. The main structural elements of any furnace are:

fireman- where the fuel used to heat the house is loaded. The size of the firebox depends on what fuel will be used. Only refractory bricks are used for its laying, as it is in direct contact with the fire.
Chimney- designed to remove smoke and gases that are formed during the combustion process. Its design should not have a large number bends, if possible, it is better to make it completely vertical. The fewer bends, the better the room is heated.
Ash chamber or blower- also one of the important parts of the furnace design. Ash is accumulated in the ash pan - a product of burning wood and coal. Through the blower, air enters the firebox, as a result of which traction improves, and hence the quality of heating the home. The ash chamber is located under the firebox and has a separate door for easy cleaning of the ash.

The design of the heating and cooking stove is characterized by the presence hob or even an oven.

Sauna stove: masonry features

Drawings of brick sauna stoves are usually drawn up for specific cases. The dimensions of such furnaces directly depend on the size of the room in which they will be installed.

A distinctive feature of the design of the stove for a bath is the presence of a heater. This is a special compartment in the furnace, with a lid through which water is supplied and stones are laid. Do-it-yourself ordering of the laying of stoves should be agreed with a professional, because for sauna stoves, safety is first of all

1 - brick oven on a separate foundation,
2 - firebox, 3 - boiler with water, 4 - filling from boulders (heater), 5 - valve, 6 - door for giving, 7 - shelves, 8 - leaking wooden floor (plank, log) along waterproof beams.

When choosing a project, it is necessary to take into account some features in the design of sauna stoves:

firebox in sauna stove Definitely need a large size. The door blew and it itself must be large in order to ensure a good flow of air into the firebox.
The grate should be laid along the blower channel for better traction. But because of the problematic acquisition of long grates, most often you have to buy small grates and lay them across.
If flammable structures in the sauna room are not protected by refractory materials, the distance from them to the stove must be more than 30 cm.
If the heater is located above the firebox, the height of the latter should be at least 55 cm. This is necessary for better heating of the stones.
Before laying a brick sauna stove on the mortar, it is better to lay the rows dry first. And only after their alignment, use the mixture for masonry.
The horizontal and vertical masonry can be checked using a level. If minimal deviations are found in the masonry, they need to be corrected.
All doors must be securely fastened. To do this, during installation, steel wire is used, which is attached to specially made recesses in the bricks.
Where the chimney pipe passes through the ceiling or wall, there must be refractory insulation.
When mixing the mixture for masonry, only high-quality clay and fine sand are used.

Square oven with bottom heating

A distinctive design feature square oven with bottom heating, is that the height of the fuel section is relatively high. On both sides of the firebox, two voids are symmetrically located for the removal of gases into the chambers located on the side, in the outer walls of the furnace. From these chambers, gases enter the risers and then rise up, where an upper cap is formed from the cavities, consisting of three U-shaped cavities. These cameras are located parallel to each other.

In the upper part of the rear and middle cavities, heated air is retained, and the cooled products of fuel combustion are discharged through special openings into the cavity, which is connected to the chimney. Then they are taken out into the street.

Any type of coal and firewood can be used to heat a room with a stove of this device. But, when using coal and anthracite, the walls of the firebox must be laid from fire-resistant bricks.

The laying scheme of the furnace with lower heating consists of 3 caps: the upper section and 2 large cavities.

Masonry and design features of the furnace V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo

Furnace designed by V.E. Groom-Grzhimailo.

A feature of the device of the furnace V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo is that it has the shape of a cylinder and is enclosed in a steel case. There is no circulation of gases in it. The movement of gases in such a furnace occurs under the influence of gravity, and not with the help of traction. Heavy cold gases go down, and light heated gases rise up.

The design of this furnace consists of two parts:

The upper chamber, in which there is no smoke circulation. It is similar to an inverted glass or cap. Therefore, these furnaces are called channelless and bell-type.
The lower section is a firebox, in the ceiling of which there is a hole (khailo) for the removal of smoke and gases to the upper section.

Heated flue gases do not move from the hail to the chimney, they reach the ceiling, and after they cool down, they go down to the base of the firebox. From there, they will enter the chimney and come out.

Do-it-yourself brickwork of this furnace is quite simple. The advantage of the VE Grum-Grzhimailo furnace is that it takes a long time to cool down and uses 80% of the heat generated by the fuel during combustion.

For a furnace designed by V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo, anthracite and lean coal are most suitable as fuel. When using wood fuel, the gaps between the buttresses are clogged with soot. Soot cleaning is enough difficult process, because through the doors for cleaning it is difficult to get into all the cracks.

Bunk oven for home: masonry and features

Scheme of laying out a two-tier stove for a house. Typical.

A two-story oven, in fact, consists of two absolutely identical ovens located one above the other. To facilitate the design and save materials, laying out with empty chambers is carried out between the furnaces. The masonry that fills the gap between the two structures serves as the basis for the upper one.

The stove's chimney pipe, which is at the bottom, passes through the top one, so it has a slightly smaller heating area. The chimney of the upper stove is brought out separately. Laying a bunk oven is quite simple to perform. The doors for cleaning the furnaces from soot are located: at the back - in the lower, and in the side wall - in the upper structure. As fuel, it is best to use anthracite or hard coal.

When covering the upper part of empty chambers, a reinforced concrete slab is often used. Due to this, the level of strength and stability of the structure increases. Brick laying for the oven must be done very carefully. After all, in the event of a malfunction, repair will be difficult.

The two-story oven is ideal for a two-story country house. For its design, you can use the schemes of furnaces, which are made in the form of a square or rectangle.
Video instruction for laying a bunk oven

What is better to use for masonry: materials and tools

Tools for laying furnaces: a - mrlotok-kirochka;
b - furnace hammer; c - rule; g - wooden shovel;
d - building level; e - bast brush; g - pliers;
h - cycle; and - stalk; to - scriber; l - rasp;
m - square; n - plumb; o - sledgehammer; p - chisel;
p - trowel; c - stitching

For laying out furnaces, in most cases, refractory fireclay bricks are used. Its main advantage over the rest of the brick is that, although it heats up for a long time, it keeps heat for a very long time. That allows the room to warm up evenly and maintains a constant temperature in it.

When, the main thing is to pay attention to the quality of the material. If a brick is fired too hard, its refractoriness and quality are reduced. Such a brick is best used for laying out the base of the furnace. It is not very suitable for a firebox, since heat transfer will be disturbed.

But, fireclay bricks are best suited for laying out parts that are in direct contact with fire. As facing material suitable ceramic brick.

Silicate bricks cannot be used for laying the structure. It does not adhere to the solution, and absorbs moisture under thermal loads.

Brick laying technology is not complicated. Good enough to be able to fold the oven yourself, or ask for help from a specialist.

Clay, brick and sand used for masonry must be of very high quality. After all, a stove is a device that is created for many years, and its use should not be flammable.

Tools you will need for laying a brick structure:

Trowel, for spreading mortar.
Hammer-pick, for leveling and splitting bricks, if necessary.
Shovel for mixing mortar.
Cutting for alignment of convex and concave seams.
An ordering tool to check the evenness of laying out rows of bricks.

Basic principles of laying brick structures:

Bricks must be laid only one at a time. It is better for inexperienced to lay out a row without a solution and only then use the mixture.
Each brick is carefully cleaned of dust and crumbs with a brush.
For better adhesion of the mortar, the ceramic brick is briefly dipped in water.
Fireclay bricks must not be wetted with water in any case!
After laying, the brick cannot be moved and tapped, so you need to lay it in one confident movement.
If it was not possible to lay the brick immediately, then it is removed and the mortar is cleaned.
The solution that has been cleaned can no longer be used.

Now more and more people are making their choice in favor of stoves in their homes. This is due, first of all, to the efficiency of this method of heating. It is in the pursuit of fuel economy and better heat transfer that more and more new stove design schemes are being created. Most importantly, carefully study and choose a scheme that is suitable for a particular home.

The disadvantage of the furnace is the need to constantly maintain combustion or smoldering in the furnace. But, when using quality materials and choice correct scheme, which is suitable for the home, the need for constant fuel injection is greatly reduced. Another disadvantage is the impossibility of using the stove in the summer for cooking.