The project of a simple Kuznetsov heating furnace. How to make a Kuznetsov heating and cooking stove? Kuznetsov's furnaces: drawings and their diversity

The first Kuznetsov bell-type furnace was built in the 60s of the last century. The unique development belongs to Igor Kuznetsov, whose main activity is the design and improvement brick ovens for heating.

Kuznetsov's heating furnaces are efficient and reliable designs that use various fuel materials.

Currently, more than 150 types of furnaces have been invented, each of which has a high efficiency rate - from 80 to 94%.

Characteristics

Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces have a number of distinctive characteristics and advantages that distinguish them from the main competitors in the market heating equipment for home and bath.

The principle of operation of such a device is quite simple: the lower level (tier) and the firebox are a single structure - a cap, which is designed to effectively move gases formed during the combustion of fuel. In this case, the accumulation of light gases is carried out at the top of the cap, and heavy gases - at the bottom. Gases with an average heating temperature are concentrated in the middle.

"Kuznetsovka" made of bricks provides for a long-term retention of heated air inside the hood for efficient heat accumulation inside the room, and then the rapid removal of combustion waste through the chimney.

A feature of the furnace is to maintain the maximum combustion temperature. In addition, the Kuznetsov stove has a high efficiency, which is several times higher than that of a classic Russian stove.

The specific advantages of such ovens are as follows:

  • High efficiency - up to 94%.
  • High temperature mode of combustion of the fuel material.
  • Fast accumulation and long keeping warm.
  • Low level of soot deposition.
  • Ease of care and unpretentiousness.
  • Insignificant material consumption with high heat output.
  • Possibility of additional embedding of a contour for hot water supply.
  • Increased traction at small sizes flue pipe.
  • Attractive design and wide choice of constructive forms. An improved version is the two-bell Kuznetsov furnace, which can be designed for any type of room.
  • Fast distribution of thrust between channels in automatic mode.

Kinds

By appointment and design features"Blacksmiths" can be divided into several types:

  • Heating. The devices are designed to efficiently and safe heating premises.
  • Cooking. Used for cooking. This includes ovens for baking bread and bakery products.
  • Bath. The Kuznetsov sauna stove is designed for simultaneous heating of the main bath rooms. Such devices have high heat transfer with minimal fuel consumption.
  • Street. Oven complex, consisting of a grill or barbecue, for outdoor cooking.
  • Fireplace. The equipment is used as decorative element interior or additional heating option. Some are equipped with special sunbeds for a pleasant pastime.

The most popular are complex devices that are distinguished by their multitasking. A striking example is the Kuznetsov heating and cooking stove, which is intended both for heating residential premises and for cooking.

Despite their functional features, all stoves work on the same principle - the effective distribution of heated gases in the hood into separate streams.

It is noteworthy that the stove hoods can be equipped with additional equipment - electric heaters, hot water tanks, steam generators, an oven and a stove.

A well-designed and built Kuznetsov sauna stove will provide reliable heating in all functional areas: steam room, washing room, dressing room, rest room. In addition, it will allow you to quickly heat water, accumulate hot steam and purify the air.

What explains the high efficiency of furnaces

The reasons why bell-type ovens are so efficient compared to traditional devices are as follows:

  • Correct distribution of flue gases according to the heating temperature outside the furnace compartment.
  • A large number of caps contributes to the retention of hot gas and more efficient heat accumulation inside the device.
  • The correct position of the hood helps to contain the heated gases and maintain a high temperature regime. This leads to the collection of products of combustion of fuel in one place and a decrease in the level of soot formation in the chimney. For this reason, "blacksmiths" do not require frequent cleaning of soot.
  • The heat exchanger is located in the hood, so it does not retain the heat produced by the furnace and does not reduce the level of efficiency.

It is not so easy to build a Kuznetsov oven with your own hands, but all that is required from the master is to follow clear step-by-step instructions.

Materials and tools

To equip a brick "blacksmith" for a house or bath, first of all, you should prepare working drawings and orders. The author himself has developed over a hundred different stoves with step by step instructions for their construction.

The order of the furnace is complete guide, which clearly explains the correct laying of each individual row in the prescribed sequence. Beginning craftsmen are advised to strictly follow the orders of Kuznetsov's furnaces, which will allow them to build a reliable and durable structure.

For construction works it is necessary to prepare the basic materials and working tools:

  • solid red fire-resistant brick;
  • fireclay brick;
  • fire-resistant clay of medium fraction;
  • mountain sand (twice the volume of clay);
  • steel wire;
  • metal corner;
  • structural elements: doors for a blower, fireboxes, a grate for a grate, a valve, a stove for a hearth.

Attention! If desired, instead of clay and sand, you can purchase a ready-made masonry mixture, which is sold in specialized stores. It has all the necessary proportions of the main components.

Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov's furnaces have their own subtleties of construction, therefore, before starting work, the masonry scheme of the device should be carefully studied.

Construction technology

Even beginners can build such a device on their own, the main thing is that the construction technology and the working scheme are observed.

Foundation arrangement

The first stage is the construction of the foundation, which can be planned during the construction of a house or a bath. Otherwise, it is necessary to prepare a new base for the stove.

The base should exceed the dimensions of the furnace by 15 cm along the entire future perimeter, which will ensure high strength and wear resistance of the finished structure. For the arrangement of the foundation, it is worth considering the following:

  • The base for the stove is not recommended to be connected with the foundation of the house or bath.
  • When the furnace is located along the wall, the foundation must be 6 cm away from the main base, and the distance between them is protected by a sand layer.
  • To protect the base from high humidity and ground water reliable waterproofing is required - a sand cushion at the bottom of the trench and a rolled roofing material over the concrete layer.
  • To increase the strength, the foundation must be reinforced with a special reinforcing frame.

Brickwork

After the concrete foundation has completely hardened, you can proceed to the brickwork. The Kuznetsov furnace is correctly lined up only if the order proposed by the inventor is observed.

Before starting masonry, it is worth considering the location of the chimney pipe inside the room and outside on the roof, which must meet certain requirements. Recall that any Kuznetsov furnace has ready-made drawings, in accordance with which construction work is carried out.

  1. Fireclay fire-resistant bricks are used for laying the first two rows. A special one is being prepared to connect the bricks. It is not recommended to use a mixture prepared for arranging the foundation. After completing the laying of the 1st row, the corners are checked, each of which should be 90 degrees. From the 2nd row, the arrangement of chimney channels begins.
  2. To improve the heat output of the device, it is recommended to install 4 cleaning channels for the channels - in the back, in the blower and on the sides. The sizes of cleanings are chosen individually. At this stage, the horizontalness of all surfaces is checked using a corner.
  3. From the 2nd row, an ashpit and a blower are formed. These working chambers are designed to clean the ash and create the necessary draft for combustion. Brickwork is carried out in a checkerboard pattern with a seam 6 mm thick. To fix the bricks, a solution based on refractory clay is used.
  4. Next, partitions are installed for internal compartments, a wall is formed between the blower and the working part of the furnace. When laying the 5th row, a grate is installed, the thickness of which is determined by the degree of loading of the chamber with fuel. When installing the grate, technological gaps of 7 mm are observed between the grate for the grate and the outer wall of the stove. The grille is mounted at a slight angle with respect to the door.
  5. Here is the installation of the door for the firebox. When arranging the combustion chamber, it is additionally lined with fireclay bricks, which are laid with an edge. This provides reliable protection of the outer walls of the furnace from high temperatures.
  6. Until the 16th row, laying is carried out similarly to the previous rows. From the 17th row, a cap is installed, after which you can begin to equip the second chamber located above the first. It will be the second cap. At this stage, the cap is overlapped, and on the 21st row, passages are arranged that are directed along internal walls on both sides.
  7. The work is carried out in accordance with the proposed order until the 26th row, after which the upper part of the cap is securely closed brickwork.
  8. 24 hours after the completion of the masonry, a test run of the stove can be carried out with the addition of a small amount of fuel material. This will allow you to check the finished structure for tightness and the absence of gaps between the bricks. If even minor deficiencies are found, they must be eliminated immediately.

Any "blacksmith" must have a floating firebox, for the arrangement of which a special seam is made.

A dry seam in Kuznetsov's furnaces is a small technological gap in the extreme corner, almost at the bottom of the furnace. It provides a safe separation of gases in the furnace into cold and hot.

This process contributes to the unhindered rise of hot gases into upper part hood with their subsequent cooling. Further, the cooled gases are discharged into the second hood and through the chimney to the outside.

  1. The first hood must not be connected to the combustion chamber. This is due to the fact that the fuel material must burn separately - to create a high temperature regime. The connection of the hood and the firebox is allowed in a classic Russian stove with less efficient draft.
  2. Each even row of brickwork should be fixed with metal wire to create additional strength and stability of the structure.
  3. After completion of the masonry, it is recommended to treat the brick with a protective fire-resistant composition.
  4. Decorative and functional elements of the metal furnace are installed taking into account the possible expansion when heated. The distance between them and the brickwork is protected by a special gasket.
  5. The first furnace of the device is carried out at minimum temperatures with a small amount fuel.
  6. When heated, the brick expands, so the internal structure of the furnace made of refractory material must be designed so that there are technological gaps on each side.

The most accessible design of the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace can be built with your own hands. When planning a complex and multifunctional device, the technology of its construction can also be complicated.

The disadvantage of the designs of most furnaces is the low coefficient of productivity. This is the result of too rapid exit of flue gases. The problem can be solved by lengthening the chimney, but the draft will then decrease, as well as the intensity of combustion.

When designing a brick oven, the main tasks are:

  • providing good traction;
  • increase in heat transfer of the entire volume of generated thermal energy.

These tasks are mutually exclusive, so you need to find a "golden mean" so that the smoke lingers as long as possible, but the draft does not deteriorate. One of the best solutions to this problem is Kuznetsov oven.

All existing Kuznetsov furnaces (and there are more than 150 of them) can be divided into several groups according to their function:

  • bath;
  • cooking (for cooking);
  • heating;
  • grills;
  • fireplaces;
  • complex.

Important! The most popular of them are combined cooking and heating structures.

The furnaces described above work on the same principle. An air hood is placed directly behind the combustion chamber, which separates the hot flue gases. The inlet here is from below, and not from above, as was done before. The heated gases in the cap rise up, and the cooled and, accordingly, heavy gases go outside. Soon the hot gases also cool down and leave the hood in the same way.

Skeptics even today consider the described technology to be inefficient - the delay in smoke should lead to a deterioration in traction. In fact, everything is not so, and the fallacy of this opinion is quite easy to prove.

  1. The index of rarefaction of air under the hood is 0.18 hPa, which in relation to normal pressure in the atmosphere can be considered a negative value. Hence the natural convection.
  2. Other important point is the open door of the blower. It seals the air flow that regularly replaces the rarefied air under the hood.
  3. The length of the pipe also plays an important role. This is the air pipeline that passes the entire flow of flue gases and, therefore, ensures the maximum speed of their movement.

Important! With the help of the Kuznetsov stove, it is possible to provide not only individual heating, but also the supply of hot water. To this end, the back of the cap is equipped with a steel heat exchanger.

What can give such a strange chimney?

  1. Stratification of flue gases by temperature immediately after the combustion chamber.
  2. On the path of gases, you can install not one, but two or three caps at once. As a result, the smoke will give off more heat, and the structure itself will consist of several zones with a permanent temperature.
  3. The hood is located next to the firebox and smoke gases that have not yet given up their heat enter it. As a result, the ash carbon monoxide and volatile hydrocarbons, which are carried away by the chimney in a conventional furnace, burn out under the hood in this design. This leads to an increase in heat transfer and minimizes the amount of soot in the chimney.
  4. Due to natural convection, the products of combustion are physically unable to leave the furnace before all the heat has been released.
  5. The heat exchanger in the Kuznetsov furnace, unlike other types of construction, is located in the hood, that is, outside the combustion chamber. It cannot affect the temperature of the fire in any way and, as a result, does not reduce the efficiency.

Now - directly to the construction process.

What will be required in the work

When performing the whole complex of activities, you will need:


Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov furnaces: construction technology

To build a furnace of this type is quite simple even for people doing this for the first time. It is important that the construction technology, as well as ordering, be observed.

Stage 1. Foundation

If the base for the furnace is made simultaneously with the foundation of the house, it is only necessary to adjust the dimensions to the chosen design. But if there is none, then it is undesirable to connect it with the main foundation - it is better to fill it separately and make it somewhat wider (by 12-15 cm) of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future building.

I. Kuznetsov himself advises to build a deaf foundation of silicate brick.

Stage 2. Laying

Important! You should think in advance about the correct location of the chimney in the room and on the roof. It must meet certain requirements (see figure). Only after that you can start building.

A detailed order of the Kuznetsov furnace can be seen in the image below.

ordering

Rows No. 1 and No. 2 must be laid out of fireclay bricks. The main thing is not to use for this solution, previously mixed for the construction of the foundation. From row number 2, you can start the conclusion smoke channels, but it is desirable to make the bottom of the oven somewhat thicker.

For smoke channels that improve heat transfer, four cleanings are installed: one at the back, the second in the blower, the third and fourth on the side. The length and width of the brushes are determined individually, and to check the horizontality / verticality are used building level and corner.

Important! The main difficulty can be the laying of halves of bricks. For better cutting, it is advisable to use a grinder.

A wall is formed between the blower and the rest of the furnace, as well as all internal partitions. During the laying of row No. 5, a grate is installed.

In rows No. 17-18, an overlap of caps is being constructed, and in No. 21 a pair of passages is left running along the left and right inner walls.

In general, having a clear order on hand, building a Kuznetsov furnace is quite simple and, as a rule, no difficulties arise.

Stage 3. Check

At the end of the masonry, it is necessary to carry out the first kindling. The minimum amount of fuel is used so that the structure heats up slowly. In this case, the furnace will be fired, its performance will be checked, as well as the tightness of the joints of the doors and valves. If the slightest defects are found, they should be immediately eliminated.

Important! The maximum power of the described design is 10 kW - this is quite enough for an ordinary country house.

What else should you know

The combustion chamber is connected to the cap with a vertical slot, which is called a dry joint. The need for such a constructive solution is caused by convection currents moving in both compartments. The part of the flue gas containing a large number of steam is drawn into the combustion chamber to be recycled, which improves the combustion of the airborne particles and causes turbulence.

The blower is filled with air not only through the grate, but also from above, through cavities in the walls. Again, this is required for complete combustion volatile particles, because the air that enters through the grate, when it reaches the top of the torch, contains practically no oxygen.

Above the combustion chamber is a grate of refractory bricks, called a catalyst. It heats up to high temperatures and, as it were, burns out everything that remains after incomplete combustion of the fuel.

  1. It is impossible to make the combustion chamber part of the hood, because the fuel must burn in a limited space to create a sufficiently high temperature. If you connect the cap to the firebox, you get a traditional Russian stove, but with poor draft.
  2. Roasting should begin with a minimum temperature, gradually increasing the intensity of combustion.
  3. At high temperatures, the brick expands, due to which the inner fireclay box can “suspend”, that is, empty space forms on all its sides.
  4. At the end of the masonry, it is desirable to cover the entire brick with a special refractory composition.
  5. Every second row of masonry should be laid with steel wire to reinforce the bond.
  6. Doors and other metal elements should be mounted taking into account the fact that they expand at high temperatures. To separate the metal from the brick, you need to use a special gasket.

As a conclusion

As you can see, the simplest cooking and heating structure of I. Kuznetsov can be built with your own hands. But if you plan to install a multifunctional oven or the laying technology itself seems too complicated, then you need to turn to experienced stove-makers. They will do everything quickly, taking into account all the features, and finished construction will serve for many years.

For a more detailed acquaintance with the nuances of masonry, it is recommended to watch thematic video material.

Video - Laying the Kuznetsov furnace

Furnaces designed by Igor Kuznetsov are currently among the most efficient among all existing designs. For half a century now, such stoves have been used by a huge number of people not only in our country, but also abroad. You can build such a stove with your own hands in your house or in the country if you follow the recommended masonry scheme for a particular model.

What is a Kuznetsov bell-type furnace and where is it used: advantages and disadvantages

Kuznetsov began to develop projects for various types of furnaces in the middle of the last century. For all the time of his work, he created more than 150 designs of furnaces for various purposes.

Kuznetsov's bell-type furnace

The most popular furnace designs:


In fact, there are many more varieties of Kuznetsov furnaces, since there is the possibility of building mixed types.

The main indicator of the operation of the furnace is an increase in efficiency (efficiency). This is exactly what Igor Kuznetsov was striving for when creating bell-type furnaces. Depending on their purpose, the master equipped them with improved functions and capabilities. Some furnaces received an increased degree of heat saving, others received a new improved furnace, and the third was provided with a long service life.

Thanks to the competent development of projects for bell-type furnaces, hot air lingers in them much longer than in conventional designs, and the cooled air quickly goes into the chimney pipe through a special recess. They got this name due to the fact that a kind of “cap” is created inside the furnace, which connects the two parts of the structure - the lower part and the furnace. It also separates gases into hot and cold.

Bread bell oven Kuznetsov

The efficiency of bell-type furnaces reaches 95%, while conventional furnaces have only 25 to 40% efficiency. Thanks to the “free movement of gases”, which is ensured by the introduction of the Kuznetsov system, the formation of soot is reduced and the smooth heating of the furnace is increased. Such a 4 kW oven can quickly heat a house with an area of ​​​​about 100 square meters. If necessary, the design of the bell-type furnace allows you to install a water heating circuit in the house. And since the thrust is distributed automatically through the channels, the risk of waste is almost zero. Therefore, the view can not be closed.

Advantages of bell-type furnaces

  • Uniform heating of the furnace and heat transfer.
  • Equipped with a large number of places where you can install a metal heating element.
  • They burn without soot and smoke formation.
  • Rarely need cleaning (every few years).
  • They have a low level of heat loss.
  • High degree of economy.
  • Crack resistance.
  • Possibility of design improvement.
  • They have a maximum fuel combustion temperature.
  • Firebox possibility various types solid fuel.
  • Strong draft even with a small chimney.

Such furnaces are almost completely devoid of disadvantages, except, of course, for the difficulties in their construction and the cost of purchasing materials.

The design and its distinctive features

The principle of the arrangement of bell-type furnaces is quite simple and lies in the fact that the lower tier of the structure and the hearth are combined into a common space. It is called a cap, inside which hot gases circulate.

The lightest incandescent gases, which are formed during the combustion of fuel, rise to the top of the cap. There they will be until all their heat passes to the brick walls of the masonry.

Standard bell furnace design

As they cool, they become heavy and sink down. The following hot gases "come" to their place, and such a cycle occurs as long as the fuel burns in the hearth. Thus, hot air is always under a kind of cap until the brick takes all the heat. He won't be able to get out until he's completely cool and heavy enough to go down.

Design features of bell-type furnaces

In order to understand how such a stove works, we can consider the option with a glass container, when hot smoke cannot escape anywhere in it and gradually sinks down when cooled.

But you need to know that the cooled gas, which goes down, is not cold in the truest sense of the word. It has a temperature of more than 200°C, and the combustion temperature of solid fuel is about 800°C, so the air rising up will be just as hot. Cooling down, the gas descends to the outlet channels, which are located at the bottom of the furnace masonry. And then he enters the next cap, located above the first. And if the gas was cold enough for this cap, then for the upper one it will be red-hot and therefore rise again to the very top. There they will also heat the material of the oven walls. After cooling, they will go down, as in the first case, but with a temperature of about 130 ° C.

That's the whole process of the furnace, but, like every effective device, there is a small nuance here, which is called the "dry crack". It is an opening located vertically in the furnace about 2–3 centimeters wide, which combines the firebox with the lower hood from the floor itself to the end point of the chamber. Due to the dry gap, heavy cold air can directly enter the pipe without mixing with the rising hot gas and without reducing the efficiency of solid fuel combustion.

Dry joint in the masonry of a bell-type furnace

The sauna stove has the same principle of operation as the heating one, but its design is slightly different.

  • The lower cap is equipped with a special metal pan with stones.
  • There is access for water to enter and special holes for the exit of hot steam.
  • The stove has thicker outer walls, which allow the stones to heat up as much as possible, and the room itself does not overheat.
  • The hood has a circuit for heating water in the washing room.

Stones are heated in two ways:

  • Directly from hot gases.
  • In a steel closed pallet.

Since the stones are located at the top of the first cap and therefore they are heated to a maximum temperature. This is due to the fact that hot air "envelops" the stones from all sides at the same time.

For such a furnace, it is best to purchase rounded streamlined stones. This form will perfectly cope with the heating of air.

If possible, 1/3 of the cast iron ingots can be added to the stones.

Calculation of the main parameters

In order to properly build the Kuznetsov furnace, it is necessary to strictly follow the scheme developed by specialists. Masters who have extensive experience in the construction of such furnaces recommend that before you start capital masonry, practice laying it “dry” if you are doing this for the first time.

If the stove will be built at the stage of construction of the house itself, then it is necessary to draw up a project in such a way that it can heat several rooms at once.

The foundation for the furnace must be of high quality and must have a waterproofing layer. It is also necessary to take into account that the foundation of the house should not go into the basis for the furnace. This design must have its own foundation, giving its shrinkage.

The concrete base should be larger than the oven by about 10 centimeters on all sides. The degree of its deepening will depend on the height of the structure and the soil composition where the furnace will be built. Typically, the depth of the pit is from 40 to 60 centimeters. A pillow of sand is laid at the bottom for waterproofing and a layer of rubble to strengthen the building. To form the side walls, formwork is installed from the boards.

Scheme of ordering the bell-type furnace OVIK-9

The depth of the firebox is 450x470 mm with a dry joint to expand the brick by 2–3 cm. If a firebox is needed large sizes 510x530 mm, then back wall laid out not in ½ bricks, as shown in the order, but in ¼ bricks.

Necessary materials and tools

To build a furnace, we need a fairly large amount of materials and tools. This list does not take into account the construction of the foundation and chimney.


Instruments

  • Trowel.
  • Plumb and building level.
  • Container for mixing solution.
  • Spatulas.
  • Construction corner.
  • Perforator.
  • Bulgarian.
  • Mixer attachment.

Preparatory work before assembling the furnace

Before you start building a stove, you need to study in detail the plan of the room where the stove will stand. Since it weighs quite a lot, the foundation must be well reinforced.

The following information will help to build the furnace correctly and efficiently in order to avoid problems during its further operation.

  • The cap and the hearth should be combined with a dry seam - a size of 2-3 centimeters. It is necessary for the correct movement of air flows. Heavy gases saturated with water vapor will move in the hearth and create a certain vibration, improving the quality of firewood combustion.
  • It is impossible to combine a furnace with a hood, since firewood must burn in a certain volume. This is the only way to create the highest possible temperature.
  • Above the combustion chamber, a catalyst made of refractory bricks in the form of a grid should be arranged. Here they heat up to the maximum and burn out what burned out in the hearth.

If the furnace will be built in wooden house, then it is very important to protect the walls from severe overheating. To do this, it is recommended to install gaskets made of refractory material at the joints of the walls and the furnace itself.

Also, at the joints of the furnace, the gaps that will be filled with refractory material are needed for the free movement of the expansion of the masonry during its heating. Otherwise, the mortar at the seams will crack, and the oven will be deformed.

  • The refractory protection inside the furnace must be located in such a way as if it were suspended in the air. That is, it should not come into contact with the walls of the furnace.
  • Internal masonry must be installed on the edge. External masonry is done at the discretion of the master.
  • The wire is needed to strengthen the brick bond. Therefore, every 2-3 rows it is necessary to lay it so that the stove is more durable and stable.
  • After the solution has completely dried, the walls of the furnace must be treated with a special refractory substance.
  • Trial kindling should be carried out from the lowest possible temperature, with a phased addition of heat.

Do-it-yourself bell-type furnace construction

We will begin the construction of the furnace from the foundation, since it is it that is its basis and one of the main elements for ensuring the strength characteristics of the structure.


We leave the concrete to harden for several weeks, since the longer the foundation stands, the stronger and more reliable it will be.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for laying the Kuznetsov furnace - ordering (photo)

  1. We lay out the first row of bricks. It must be perfectly even, as it is a solid basis for future ordering. We make the thickness of the seams about 5 mm. We check the correctness of the angles. For this laying we will need 20 bricks.

    We lay out the first row of bricks for the oven

  2. We begin to create a blower chamber and a lower cap. In order to be able to clean its base after the masonry is completed, we put two halves of the brick protruding from the main row, and do not sit them on the mortar. We install the blower door and temporarily support it with bricks.

    We put the second row of the furnace

  3. We put the 3rd row according to the drawing. During the masonry period, we tightly fix the blower door.

    Third row laying

  4. We partially lay out the 4th row of fireclay bricks. From it we create the side walls of the furnace and the end wall. We block the blower door with 2 ordinary bricks, release them a little above it and cut it obliquely. We also put 2 hewn bricks from the end of the blower. Between the two types of bricks, we leave a five-millimeter gap. To do this, we put a simple five-millimeter corrugated cardboard between them. In the future, it will simply burn out and the thermal hole we need will remain. We will have to make such slots in other rows, where two types of bricks will join.
  5. We continue laying 4 rows. After we lay the bricks on the side above the blower door, we block the middle of the door with refractory and ordinary bricks, hewn on both sides from the side. We will need to take 1 ordinary and 1 fireclay brick.

    Fourth row laying

  6. From the fifth row we create a fuel chamber. We cut the brick obliquely and put the front wall of the hearth. The internal space of the furnace between the masonry should be similar to the size of the grate so that it easily fits into the brick rectangle and onto the bricks of the previous row protruding by 10-15 mm. We make a five-millimeter gap between the walls and the grate. Behind the firebox, where the first cap is located, we create a channel in ½ bricks to connect the two caps. We will need 12 and ½ red and 4 refractory bricks. Here, on the protruding bricks of the previous row, we lay out the grate (we do not fix it with mortar). The holes are filled with sand.

    Laying the fifth row

  7. On the sixth row, we install the combustion chamber door. The holes between the bricks and the door are filled with asbestos.

    Laying the sixth row

  8. We put the next row. When laying the end wall of the furnace on the left side, we make a gap of 2-3 cm, which will serve as a dry seam. We use 12 ordinary and 3 refractory bricks.

    Laying the seventh row

  9. We put the eighth row according to the drawing, using 12 ceramic and 3 refractory bricks.

    Laying the eighth row

  10. In the 9th row, we make the walls of the hearth, and between it and the cap from below we create a passage where the combustion products will go. We make the side walls ten millimeters lower than the rest of the masonry. The bricks that we put over the firebox are shifted a little to cover a small part of its frame. Before that, we cut the bricks obliquely and so we create a “notch” in which we will lay the main central brick. We use 12 ordinary and 2 and a half refractory bricks.
  11. Here, between the facade side bricks, which are located above the chamber door, we put a centering brick covering the rim of the door. Before that, we cut it obliquely. We cover the side of the chamber on the left with a strip of asbestos 10 mm. She will align the entire 9th row.

    Ninth row laying

  12. On the bricks of the tenth row, which are covered with refractory asbestos, we put an ordinary brick on the “dry” one. In the masonry that frames the furnace, we make a small ten-millimeter cutout on which it will lie hob. We leave a gap of 5 mm between the stove and the brick on all sides to heat the metal. The fireclay brick, which we lay in front and on the right of the firebox, is cut obliquely. We make a small ten-millimeter gap between the slab and the masonry.
  13. After we have laid out the 10th row, on the openings in the masonry we place asbestos twine, which is saturated with a mixture of clay. Place a panel on top. We fill all the holes between it and the bricks with sand.

    We lay the tenth row

  14. On the 11th row, we begin to create the walls of the cooking chamber and install a frame with doors. Between the steel frame and the masonry we make a gap of 5 mm. To form the frame, we wrap it with refractory rope.

    We lay the eleventh row

  15. We lay out the 12th row according to the drawing of 11 ceramic bricks.

    We lay the twelfth row

  16. On the 13th row, we continue to form the chamber and side channels.

    Laying row 13

  17. We lay out the 14th row strictly according to the drawing.

    Laying row 14

  18. We put the 15th row in two approaches. First, we raise the walls of the chamber and channels to the level of the steel frame of the door, and then we create a jumper for it. On this row we place a metal sheet 600x550 mm and make a cutout in it for the hood. For strength, we put 4 iron corners and 1 strip on top of the sheet.

    Laying 15 rows

  19. We put an ordinary brick on the corners of the 16th row and a strip, as indicated in the drawing. Leave the channels open. On the bricks that frame the near channel and for the hood before laying, we make holes for the chimney valves. We make a 5 mm gap in the masonry.
  20. Here, on the site with openings, we put 2 valves.

    Laying row 16

  21. On the next row, we block the hearth for cooking and the valves with ceramic bricks so that the outlet channels are open.

    Laying row 17

  22. Next, we form the second cap. To do this, without mortar, we install two halves of the brick, which we raise above the main masonry. This is necessary so that you can then clean the base of the furnace hood. After finishing the masonry, we fix these bricks with mortar.

    We put the 18th row

  23. We put the 19th row according to the drawing of 12 and a half red bricks.

    We put the 27th row

  24. On the 28th row in the masonry that frames the chimney channel, we make 10 mm cutouts for mounting the main chimney damper. When making openings, we regularly apply a valve so that it is located 5 mm from the walls of the furnace and freely stands in the gap we made.

    We put the 28th row

  25. Here, in the opening on the solution, we install the valve itself
  26. On the 29th row, we take 19 ordinary bricks and almost completely cover the surface of the structure. We leave intact only the chimney opening with the valve.

    We put the 29th row

  27. On the 30th row, we also almost completely cover the surface of the furnace according to the scheme.

    We put the 30th row

  28. On the 31st row, we lay the base of the pipe in 1 brick. Its size must correspond to the cross section of the chimney. The laying is carried out from 5 bricks.

    We put 31 row

  29. Then we create a chimney pipe. For each row we need 5 ceramic bricks. The oven has been built. Now it should stand until the solution is completely dry.

    We lay out the chimney of the desired height

Operation features

The difference between Kuznetsov furnaces is that they do not require special care and are very easy to operate. For them, it is enough just to prepare the appropriate dry solid fuel (firewood) in the right amount.

Since the efficiency of a bell-type stove is very high, the wood consumption will be much less than in conventional stoves, to which we are accustomed.

In bell-type furnaces, soot is practically not formed, since it is spent on secondary combustion and an increase in thermal energy.

  • Dry the oven well before using it. To do this, it must be heated 2 times a day, one at a time - an hour and a half with a small amount of fuel. The door of the blower and furnace must be open.
  • It is not recommended to use chips and cardboard in large volumes for kindling. Only for a short time they will give the maximum temperature, which will entail cracking of the bricks.
  • To kindle the stove, it is best to use paper, torches or birch bark. This will allow you to remove cold air from the chimney pipe, create the necessary draft and get the combustion temperature of firewood around 350 ° C. In winter, if the furnace has not been used for a long time, then kindling is recommended to be carried out with the “summer” valve open.
  • After the start of combustion, firewood must be put into the furnace chamber in order to get the maximum operating temperature 800–900°С.

Bell-type stoves practically do not need cleaning, and if the need arises, it is best to seek help from professional stove-makers. They will quickly and efficiently clean the chimney, furnace, grate and other elements of the furnace.

Video: we build a Kuznetsov oven with our own hands

Following detailed instructions and the developed scheme, you can independently build a convenient and functional Kuznetsov oven in your home. A properly selected scheme of the model will be able to decorate the design of any interior of the room, and will also fully fulfill the functions assigned to it - to heat the house and serve as a kitchen for cooking.

Traks, any test of the furnace to identify its characteristics, as well as operation, are carried out on wood according to the humidity of certain GOSTs. If you want to heat with raw firewood, it’s your right, but you will be warned about the consequences by the manufacturer and naturally you won’t get the characteristics that were declared, well, you yourself are tormented and ruin the stove.
It is tantamount to pouring 80 in a car, where it is written that gasoline is not lower than 91, and even slathered in the village. Who cares? After all, gasoline.
How long will your car last?
Well, it's a lyric.
And if you heat the firebox to a certain temperature, then the raw ones will go into action, but for this the stove should no longer be heating for the house, but of a completely different design.

Now about your index D/V
Money is a relative concept. For someone and 1000r. expensive.
In the regions, it has approximately developed to calculate the cost of the work of a stove-maker from a brick. And that's right. But the stove is different from stove to stove, as well as the skill of the stove-maker. Therefore, it is not ethical to talk about the cost in isolation from the requirements of the customer. If you take the economy class, i.e. without pretentiousness, strict design, for example, in the size of the well-known Swede, then I think no more than 60 tr last year for the oven.
Time is also relative. A bricklayer will add up a volume of 2 cubes in 2 days, a stove-maker - no more than 60-80 bricks per day. A different approach, different techniques, different thinking ... and the masonry technology will not allow, unless of course you violate technological process(eg add cement to the mortar, knead on fireclay clay, etc.) Therefore, the oven takes about 3 weeks per round with pipe, PP cutting, washing and surrender.
This is the norm and the law for the stove-maker.

Now D/V for operation
The money is mainly for the purchase of a service tool (poker, bucket, ax, dustpan, broom, welder's insulated leggings ..) and the purchase and storage of combustible material.
The furnace is not a barrel for burning garbage! And if you expect to drown it with garbage from the construction site, all the more so to drain and create comfort for the workers during construction, then immediately consider that the stove will be ruined for you. Irresponsibility has never led to good.
The quality of the fuel must match.
Time - open the stove valve, open the furnace door, put firewood in the furnace, light a piece of birch bark, close the furnace door, open the blower door at an angle determined by weather conditions, close the door and valve in an hour.
Rake out the ashes from the blower as they accumulate, once a year to control the condition of the internal walls of the furnace. As a rule, with proper operation, it will be necessary to clean the furnace no earlier than after five years.
Norov at the furnace should be automated to the maximum understandable by the user and keep the stoker, as well as making more than 2 valves in the design of the furnace, will not lead you to anything good.
Well, if there is not a lot in your pocket and you want a high-quality stove, then for this Kuznetsov posted the order on his website. But I still recommend that you first read the theory, ask the stove-makers on a specialized forum, make an order for yourself in a pencil or in a computer program, but it’s better to assemble a layout. That's when everything will fall into place. And depending on the skill, you will build at least 2-3 weeks. So count your time into money.

But the efficiency of the furnace cannot be measured with money.
If the furnace warms up in a horizontal section along the row from all sides equally, mainly from below, does not cool down quickly when the furnace valve is open and gives off heat evenly throughout the day, then we can talk about it.
If you suffer from not being able to melt, smoke constantly comes out of the door, the need to control combustion in the furnace, one-sided heating and usually above your head or only the firebox area, cracks after the first cold night, in the morning under the covers with your nose - then about what efficiency you can speak.

Ecology of consumption. Manor: The furnaces of engineer Kuznetsov have been known not only at home, but all over the world since the 60s of the last century. Moreover, the relevance of developments half a century ago has not become less at all, but on the contrary, Kuznetsov's furnaces are becoming more and more popular.

The furnaces of the engineer Kuznetsov have been known not only at home, but throughout the world since the 60s of the last century. Moreover, the relevance of developments half a century ago has not become less at all, but on the contrary, Kuznetsov's furnaces are becoming more and more popular. The purpose of modernizing the old design of the Russian stove with a not so significant change in its internal device was the creation of a heating unit with higher efficiency while saving fuel. Perhaps this was a foresight - since the trend towards higher prices for all types of energy resources, including biological fuel, stubbornly says that we will have to save resources, and in all seriousness? But half a century ago, the words "energy efficiency" and "energy independence" in the context of a residential building were not as familiar as they are today.

The appearance of the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace practically does not differ from the models of traditional Russian furnaces. But the thermal parameters are somewhat different - just one example:

  • to heat a house with an area of ​​​​up to 100 m2, one Kuznetsov bell-type furnace is sufficient, generating approximately 4-5 kW
  • according to reference data: for heating this volume, you need a unit with an indicator of at least 10 kW of thermal power

Advantages of Kuznetsov furnaces:

  • Highly high efficiency, for wood-burning stoves - at least 80%
  • Fuel burns at high temperatures
  • The oven works on all types solid fuel- wood, hard and brown coal, briquettes, etc.
  • Combustion of fuel to a minimum ash residue, as a result - not only fuel savings, but also simplification of operation, since it is necessary to clean the furnace from ash much less frequently
  • With the frequency of fuel fillings in the blacksmith shop only twice a day, you can have a thermal regime in the house that compares favorably even with the regime of apartments with central heating. An apartment in a high-rise building has more frequent temperature fluctuations than private house, heated by the Kuznetsov furnace, which gives uniform heat transfer between the furnaces
  • The combination of the Kuznetsov stove and water heating at home is not difficult and is often used in practice. A tubular heat exchanger is installed inside the furnace and connected to the heating circuit pipeline. The main plus is that the heat engineering and heat transfer of the furnace during modernization remain unchanged, without the slightest decrease in efficiency
  • The design of the blacksmith allows you to arrange low chimneys, and there is no reduction in draft. This fact is somewhat surprising to those who first get acquainted with the design and operation of these furnaces.
  • Features of the internal design of Kuznetsov furnaces allow you to install the unit in almost any room of any size, regardless of what the room is intended for. Both in kitchens and in common rooms, the stove looks solid and aesthetically pleasing, and organically fits into many interiors.
  • The most interesting and unusual feature of blacksmithing in the context of a house oven: you can not close the view. This most important part of the furnace and one of the conditions for safe everyday operation - for the Kuznetsov furnace is needed only if an emergency occurs. The fact is that when the process of fuel combustion comes to an end and cooling begins, the thrust in the furnace channels is redistributed spontaneously, “automatically”

The thrust is redistributed according to a special scheme, which is a unique feature of the furnace design. Channels are introduced into the device, which are called grassroots. Through these lower channels, air flows, obeying the draft, pass next to the heated parts of the furnace. If there is a fire in the fuel compartment of the furnace, this fire "attracts" part of the air flows

According to the material consumption of the furnace of this design, there is also interesting fact: Kuznetsov's bell-type furnace has more free space inside, it is more "empty" compared to most multi-channel models. Orders may vary, but according to calculations, it can be seen that the Kuznetsov furnace requires less building materials for construction, approximately 1.4-1.5 times per unit of heat generated.

Features of the device of the Kuznetsov furnace

It is known that the arrangement of chimney pipes in the form of long and narrow channel structures has one of the goals - savings. The swirling flow of hot flue gases will not reach the exit from the chimney until it leaves all its energy and heat in the furnace. All classical stoves with complex multi-turn chimney channels (for example, five-turn Dutch stoves) have flow turbulence to some extent in their complex pipes. The stove often hums in winter, this "music" was heard by everyone who is heated by large stoves.

Designs of revolving extended chimney channels and long chimneys work to force the flue gas to give up all the heat inside the stove - in theory. But in practice, it often turns out not quite so, and as a result of deviations in the efficiency of the furnace, the percentage is less than expected - up to 55-60%. There is only one reason - most of the energy still escapes into the atmosphere through the chimney. The heat generation is enormous, but channel design only part of it is used to heat the coolant in the heat exchanger and to heat the air in the room. The other part flies into the pipe, according to different schemes, but none of these schemes can suit:

  1. An incandescent turbulent flow flies out into the pipe, almost without time to cool down
  2. The flue gas has time to cool down, but too quickly - and the smoke residues in solid particles are simply huge, and soot deposits force the chimney to be cleaned more often than planned

It is not even clear which of the options is less desirable. When heating engineers are joking, one can hear comparisons of the duct design of a furnace with nothing less than a nuclear reactor. But blacksmiths are compared with thermonuclear, and all the energy given out by the fuel and all the heat go into the heated room. But more importantly, the required amount of thermal energy is released - as much as needed and no more. Such a scheme is possible due to the special organization of the flue gas movement - it does not rotate repeatedly in the channels, but is fed into the furnace body immediately.

Bell-type furnace model, comparison

The bell-type furnace as a model has been known for a long time, and the same scheme is used in Kuznetsov's furnaces - the internal cavity of the furnace is designed in such a way that the flue gas moves freely. But pyrolysis is also organized at the same time, and as a result, the fuel burns down to the smallest particles.

If we consider the Kuznetsov two-bell furnace as an example, then the pyrolysis process, moreover, self-regulating, goes immediately under the first bell. The “adjustment” scheme is as follows: as soon as the fuel in the fuel chamber flares up more strongly, the flue gas filling the cap moves downward. The gas held back by the cap cannot go up, and not only increases in volume, but becomes denser and presses with its entire mass on the fire, which, at the same time, cannot but lose some of its intensity. As a result, the combustion process subsides to a certain value, and the gas pressure weakens, then the whole process is repeated.

According to experts, ideally two-bell stoves should have round section. Then the outer dome, or the wall of the unit, will serve as the second cap, where generator gases - carbon monoxide CO and nitrogen oxides - will be neutralized. In this case, only water vapor and carbon dioxide will go out into the chimney. But at the same time, the round cross section of the furnace creates some problems during construction and operation:

  1. Cleaning a round stove is inconvenient, this is noted by the owners of such stoves
  2. Doors are more difficult to mount than in a flat wall

As a result, they act more practically - they connect both caps with a chimney, placing them one above the other. In this case, the efficiency will be less, by about 2-3%. if desired, integrate the stove into the heating water system home or have hot water from the furnace - flow heat exchangers are installed under the second hood, and not under the first, which gives the main output of thermal energy. the second vault has a heating temperature of only 300 to 400 degrees, so the heat exchanger is chosen relatively simpler, including the material. in addition, there will be no soot deposits under the second arch, and the metal of the built-in heat exchanger will last longer.

A lot of modifications of Kuznetsov's stoves have been developed - and not only house stoves for heating homes. There are a number of models for baths, stoves with stove benches. A separate place is occupied by the popular line of heating and cooking stoves. But according to the principle of internal structure - all options are similar.

Some nuances for the construction of the Kuznetsov furnace:

  • The body of the furnace is erected from red oven bricks, the mark is not lower than M150
  • For the furnace department, heat-resistant and fire-resistant bricks are needed, almost the only option is fireclay. Mark Sh-5; Shb-8, dimensions do not really matter, since the furnace is not structurally connected with the body of the furnace
  • The entire structure of the furnace must be separated from the body of the furnace, an option - a floating structure. And not only is there no ligation of furnace and fireclay bricks, but both modules are fundamentally separated - no fasteners, protrusions or supporting parts are allowed. There should also be no mortar between fireclay masonry and oven bricks, but only compensation gaps filled with heat-resistant material (basalt, kaolin or other types of cardboard or cotton wool). The reason is that the difference between the characteristics of heat capacity and linear thermal expansion of fireclay and ceramics is too large. The forces and deformations in the contact zone of fireclay and ceramic bricks heated to high temperatures are so great that they lead to breaks in the laying of the walls of the stove. Separation and floating device solves this problem.

A small minus of bell-type furnaces - with a decrease in their volume, the efficiency also decreases slightly, even when choosing perfect shape stoves - round in cross section. AT small rooms usually small ovens are installed, so some reduction in efficiency is inevitable. An interesting alternative to make a Kuznetsov furnace from metal does not yet have a worthy implementation. The design and shape of the blacksmith does not cause shear stress in any way, and this is only one argument in favor of a welded metal furnace body. The cost of the material, of course, is a little scary, but cheaper cast iron is impossible due to its massiveness and fragility, including some thermal brittleness.

A blacksmith model made of steel sheet, powder coated - the prospect is tempting, but there are also technical problems, and one of them is the difficulty of effectively lining the vaults of small furnaces. And the first blacksmithing hood has very high temperatures under the arch, the flue gases are too hot and the metal will not last long without a lining. Thus, the brick for Kuznetsov's furnace models has no competition yet. published

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to specialists and readers of our project.