Do-it-yourself installation of plastic lining - a detailed guide from the master. Plastic lining for outdoor work: advantages and rules of sheathing How to fix plastic lining

26.03.2020

Plastic lining is attached to the ceiling, as a rule, when finishing bathrooms, balconies and loggias, and other usually non-residential premises, where it is necessary to create a practical, tidy and moisture-resistant surface. Less often, ceilings in the kitchen are trimmed with clapboard, giving preference to outwardly slightly more attractive plastic panels. In living rooms - living rooms, bedrooms, etc. - such a finish is considered simply inappropriate.

Finishing the ceiling of the veranda, gazebo, porch with plastic clapboard is a normal practice, and we will explain how such a finish can be done in our article.

Preparing Tools and Consumables

Tool for finishing the ceiling with plastic clapboard

The ceiling of plastic lining is made using the following set of tools:

Jigsaw or wood saw y. Ideally, you should have both one and the other tool, since it is easier to cut plastic lining panels along with a hacksaw, while transverse cutting is easier to do with a jigsaw.
Also, a jigsaw is required for cutting beams for the frame device.

Impact electric drill.
Screwdriver or screwdriver.
A hammer.
Construction stapler.
Level.

Calculation of the amount of lining on the ceiling

Plastic lining is usually sold in the form of separate panels of 6 m in length, but if you know the size you need in advance, the store can immediately cut the material into suitable lengths.

The required amount of material is calculated based on the area of \u200b\u200bthe sheathed ceiling. If, for example, the surface dimensions are 3 * 4 m, and the width of one lining panel is 20 cm, it would be advisable to cut 6-meter panels in half and sheathe the ceiling in width.

Then the minimum number of panels required for the ceiling sheathing will be 10 pieces (10 * 2 = 20 pieces; 20 * 0.2 m = 4 m).

According to a similar algorithm, the number of lining for a specific area is calculated.

It is always necessary to provide up to 20% of the stock of material in case of rejection, offcuts, etc.

Calculation of the number of wooden beams

The wooden beam required for the construction of a frame structure (battens) is selected most often with a section of 20 * 30 mm. Usually it is screwed to the ceiling in a direction perpendicular to the planned one. The step between the bars is set within 1 m.

If we return again to the example with a ceiling of 3 * 4 m, then since the lining is planned to be placed parallel to the 3-meter wall, therefore, the bars will need to be placed parallel to the 4-meter one.

For 3 m wide, 4 bars will be required with a step between them of 1 m. But since a 4-meter beam is not found on sale, you will have to purchase 8 pieces of 2 m each.

Other materials

You will also need a number of additional auxiliary materials:

Staples for a construction stapler.

Instructions for lining the ceiling with plastic clapboard

Plastic lining on the ceiling is mounted as follows:

Remove the old fragile finish from the ceiling, if any, if it holds well, the removal can be omitted.
Holes are drilled in the beams for self-tapping screws in increments of about 0.5 m. With increased moisture in the room being finished, the wood should be protected with drying oil, varnish or paint.
Attach the bars to the ceiling. To do this, they are applied to the places of future deployment and the holes made in the beam are projected onto the ceiling using an impact drill.
The drill is selected in accordance with the diameter of the dowels. Having made holes in the ceiling, fasten the bars to the ceiling, inserting dowels into the holes and screwing screws into them.

In the process of fastening the bars, it is controlled that they are located in the same plane. If necessary, put under them any rigid pads (for example, wooden wedges) of suitable thickness.
It is impossible to fill up even one beam, otherwise the curvature of the entire canvas will subsequently be clearly visible.
At the end of the installation of the frame proceed to. First of all, along the perimeter of the ceiling, a plinth or L-profile is fixed to the bars with a stapler.
Then, with one wide end (with a spike), the lining panel is inserted into the plinth, while the other end (with a groove) is attached with a stapler to each beam.

Fastening with a stapler is performed in upper part groove.

Then the spike of the next panel is inserted into the groove of the first one, and from the side of the groove they are again fastened to the crate.
It is done in the same way.
The last panel may need to be trimmed a bit in width, and then carefully inserted into the baseboard on the other side of the ceiling.
Upon completion of the work, the clapboarded ceiling surface is thoroughly washed using a slightly warm soapy solution and a soft rag (sponge).

Mounting plastic lining on the ceiling is quite simple, and usually it is not difficult to do everything yourself.

This is just a great option in terms of practicality and durability, so plastic lining is used for rooms that are not too whimsical in terms of attractiveness.

Plastic lining has long been used for decoration interior spaces(as a rule, these are rooms with temperature fluctuations and high humidity- bathroom, bathroom, kitchen, commercial premises such as cafes, pavilions) and outdoor premises, this method is generally used quite often. It is used for cladding the facades of houses, industrial premises, outlets, etc.

This type of lining is a panel up to 3 meters long and up to 30 cm wide. It is reinforced with a stiffener on the inside and painted on the outside. The form repeats the form of a wooden lining, serves as its analogue.

Advantages of plastic lining

Of course, it is inferior to wood in environmental friendliness, but it has a cost 2-3 times lower than wooden lining, is not afraid of moisture and is not subject to rotting, fungal spores, pests do not breed in it, unlike wood, there is no need to process special means, as well as grouting, puttying, painting. Will not suffer from sunlight, will not lose its color and will not collapse.

By the way, the construction market has a very large range of different shades. These panels are not subject to deformation at temperatures from -50 to +50 degrees, but it is good to use plastic siding for exterior finishes.

They are easy to care for, a container of water is enough and detergent(powder, soap, dish detergent, do not use abrasive products), rags or brushes and you can easily give them an updated look.

And what is important, plastic lining is easy to install and does not need any finishing.

It is an ideal material for finishing walls and ceilings in bathrooms, toilets, corridors, balconies and loggias.

If the walls on which you will mount the PVC panels are perfectly even, you can not do any special preparatory work, it is enough to putty chips, cracks and install directly on the surface (wall, ceiling) by gluing onto liquid mounting nails.

Disadvantages of plastic lining

Of course, there are also disadvantages that should not be hushed up, and this is low strength, they can be mechanically damaged, let's say a careless blow and such PVC panels do not let air through and it is better to leave space between them and the wall for spontaneous ventilation so that the thermal insulation material does not change.

Due to the fact that plastic does not “breathe”, walls and ceilings in living rooms, bedrooms and children's rooms should not be sheathed with it. Such panels should not be installed in close proximity to the gas stove.

But this is extremely rare. Yes, and as we said above, it is better if there is a space for ventilation between the wall and the panel.

If necessary, this space can be laid with a heater, but you leave small gaps for air, and additional waterproofing can be laid between the wall and the heater.

Installation of plastic lining

Most often, a plastic lining is attached to a frame, which is fixed on a wall or ceiling, making it out of wooden beams or metal profiles. Metal profiles are more expensive, but thanks to them, you will install the panels perfectly evenly.

If you are using wooden slats, treat them with paint, varnish, antiseptic compounds to protect them from decay and insects. Such rails are fastened with screws or dowels.

Before starting work, conduct a preliminary check of the surface, check the meta passage of electrical wiring, possible communication pipes laid in the walls, protect yourself.

Frame made of metal profiles

Metal profiles are U-shaped. One of them with a narrower groove (UD), it is attached to vertical wall around the perimeter, and with a wider groove (CD) for the ceiling, on the sides such profiles are reinforced with corrugation for better bending strength, and it also fits into the groove of the UD hanger.

Frame rails can be placed both vertically and horizontally, it depends on how you will arrange the plastic panels, the rails should be perpendicular to them.

Mark up to install the frame, use building level and a plumb line when installing vertical guides.
Set the step between the slats, it should be no more than 50-60 cm,
Check each of the installed frame profiles with a level (with a plumb line stretched between the first and last plank), this will give an accurate flat surface of your coating.
Leave a gap of 3 to 5 cm between the floor, ceiling and slats for possible subsidence of the surfaces, which, if they occur, will not damage the surface sheathing.
Around the windows and doors along the perimeter, make an independent crate, the panels will be attached to it, and not to the frame.

If you decide to sheathe the ceiling with plastic, metal UD profiles are attached around the perimeter, along the edge of the wall of the room. CD-slats are inserted into opposite UD-slats, and CD-supports are additionally attached to the ceiling with U-shaped hangers.

Installation of plastic panels

Installation of plastic panels to metal profiles is carried out as follows:

The lining is cut to the desired length, in accordance with your surface.
One end of the lining is inserted into the starting profile, slightly bending it, the other end is inserted into a similar profile at the other end.
Then, the entire plane is shifted to the edge of the perimeter, inserted into the groove of the profile (this is the third side).
The fourth side fixes the entire plane on the ceiling.

The assembly is facilitated by the presence of grooves along the perimeter of the lining. Each next panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one, forming a solid plane with small stripes at the junction.

If the lining with drawing a picture, it should be assembled into a single one, but when installing this option, material consumption will increase.

Plastic panels are attached:

to metal profiles with self-tapping screws with a press washer (the distance between self-tapping screws should be 30-50 cm)
construction stapler
using liquid nails, but this is a less reliable option

Installation of plastic lining ends with the installation of skirting boards. The whole procedure for the installation of plastic panels from the beginning of the preparatory work, installation of the frame and to the finish line is practically no different from the installation of a wooden lining.

You can cut plastic panels with a jigsaw or a grinder with a metal disc.

When finishing any area, the question arises of choosing a material and it is necessary to do it correctly, and for this, consider in which room you will use it, under what conditions, for what service life you expect. The choice in the construction market is very large, make the right decision, contact specialists, sales consultants, friends and acquaintances, consider all the pros and cons and you will succeed.

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Finishing the facade of the building is an important stage in the construction and repair, since the general appearance of the house and personal plot. Modern manufacturers offer a wide range of building materials for home decoration, but plastic lining, which has a number of features, is more popular.

Peculiarities

The construction of a building is a procedure that consists of a series of sequential steps. The cladding of the building is the most important stage, not only due to the fact that the appearance of the building depends on it, but it also provides insulation and protection of the structure from an aggressive environment. Plastic lining thanks to its technical specifications complete these tasks. During the production of the product, harmful substances are completely removed from it.

Plastic lining is made of rigid polyvinyl chloride (PVC) with the addition of coloring and plasticizing special elements under the influence of high temperatures. Inside, the building material has voids that give the product thermal and sound insulating qualities. Specialized grooves allow for easy installation of trim, which reduces the time construction works and minimize financial costs.

Plastic lining is made from artificial building materials. This means that it is more durable when compared with a similar material made of wood, and it is also easier to care for such a product. It is allowed to be used not only indoors, but also outside, because this building material perfectly tolerates exposure to UV rays and sudden temperature changes.

If it was decided to use this material in places with harsh climatic conditions, then for this you can choose a specialized frost-resistant product option.

pros

Facade lining is in demand among many owners due to the existing product advantages:

water resistance - the product does not pass and does not absorb moisture;
high rate of resistance to deformation;
fire resistance thanks to modern technology the production of the product does not ignite and does not emit harmful substances;
high coefficient of resistance to mold and fungus;
easy care - just rinse the structure with clean water;

long service life - 10-15 years;
resistance to rust;
finishing is able to mask all the irregularities and flaws of the surface;
unlike wood lining plastic options before installation, they do not require treatment with specialized antiseptics;
acceptable product cost.

Minuses

Plastic lining, like other identical building materials, has some disadvantages when used.

Low impact strength - even a weak impact on the structure will cause a crack to appear.
Vapor resistance. Before cladding the room, it is necessary to process the walls special means against mold and mildew. If this is not done, then in the future it will be more difficult to eliminate such problems, because it will be necessary to dismantle the entire structure.

Design

Clapboard made of plastic for outdoor use can be of various types.

Below are the most requested designs:

Clapboard panel. This product visually resembles a wooden block. Such a system is the most simplified, so most plastic building materials are made with a similar profile.
Block house. Finishing building material is visually similar to log cabin. Inside the PVC panel has a flat surface, and on the sides there are grooves for fixing. This type of product can be used not only for outdoor work, but also for indoor. Beyond the aesthetic appearance, the product has an excellent indicator of plasticity, because during production, manufacturers add specialized additives that provide the building material with frost resistance and resistance to fading.
American. This option is the most popular type of plastic lining due to the installation features, because the located panels provide excellent protection of the building facade from high temperature conditions and moisture penetration into the room. Outside, this variation of the lining resembles overlapping boards.

Most experts divide PVC lining for outdoor use into the following varieties:

colored or white products;
materials that imitate wood, stone, as well as with the application of various patterns;
seam and seamless plastic panels.

How to sew with your own hands?

Before proceeding with the lining of the house with clapboard, it is necessary to study the methods of laying finishing building materials. The most popular variation is the perpendicular and horizontal placement of products, because in this way you can visually enlarge the walls. There is also an outdated method of laying panels - herringbone installation, as a result of which an unusual pattern is created, and it also becomes possible to save building materials.

As with other construction work, before proceeding with lining the house with clapboard, it is necessary to prepare the base.

If a wooden building is sheathed, then you should make sure that there are no areas with mold and fungus on the surfaces, otherwise the surface must be treated with an antiseptic.

Preparatory stage

Regardless of the building material of the outer walls, they should be thoroughly cleaned of various contaminants. All cracks and cracks are sealed with a special solution. Ideally, the wall should be as level as possible.

First of all, a wooden crate is installed for fixing plastic products - it will create a level surface for mounting. Besides, frame installation makes it possible to install thermal and waterproofing in the system. The frame can be made independently by using ordinary boards 4-5 thick and 10 cm wide. They are fixed in a vertical position.

thermal insulation

Mineral wool layers are mounted. Correct installation insulation is carried out in such a way that there are no gaps between the insulation materials. A feature of laying the layers is that their upper layers should cover the lower slabs to the middle.

Due to the natural elasticity of additional fixation products thermal insulation material does not require.

Waterproofing

To prevent moisture from entering the room, it is necessary to install a waterproofing layer. For this purpose, you can use a plastic film. Fixing the film is carried out using building brackets to the bars.

The joints must be glued with adhesive tape - this procedure will increase the waterproofing qualities of the structure.

Installing the second frame

Now you can start installing the second frame. Laths 2-3 cm thick and 0.5 mm wide are nailed onto the bars of the first frame over the waterproofing film. To prevent rodents and other insects from entering the lower area of the structure, it is necessary to close it with a metal mesh.

Installation of elements starts from the corner. The first part of the installation is the control, so at this stage you need to be especially careful and attentive. Having mounted several products among themselves, it is necessary to use the building level.

The variation of the finish in length involves the laying of materials, where the spikes of the finishing product will be located in the upper part, as a result of which condensation will not form inside the structure.

There are various methods of fixing finishing products. The method in which a stapler or nails is used is very popular. But such tools can break in a fairly short time, so in the future you will need to reinstall the parts. Experts recommend getting specialized clamps or thin nails. By means of kleimers, it is possible to carry out installation on a brick coating or on walls made of round beams or reinforced concrete.

After completing the plating procedure, you can start painting. Some types of paint (for example, oil paint) will require pre-treatment of the surface. This is done by applying drying oil in two layers. After that, you need to wait for one hundred percent drying of the special coating and continue painting.

Plastic lining is an ideal variation for wall cladding with a high moisture content (for example, it is perfect for a bath). When purchasing building materials for wall cladding, attention should be paid to the cost of the range, because high-quality building materials will stand out at a high price.

If it is not possible to purchase expensive building materials, you need to pay attention to the main nuances that shape the quality of the product.

The thickness of the outer part of the lining should be such that no stiffeners are visible through it, otherwise it is not worth using such building material for the outer skin of the building.
The strength of the product depends entirely on the number of stiffeners.
The distance between the ribs should not exceed 10 mm.

Attention should be paid to the uniform color coating of building materials. Most manufacturers do not add colorants to the copolymer special composition during manufacture, but only process the front of the products. Such a lining loses its shade in a fairly short time, and if there are scratches and cracks, they will most noticeably stand out against the general background.
When purchasing material, you need to require a quality certificate for products from the seller, because the lining is made from toxic raw materials. A new product may give off an unpleasant odor when opened, but this is considered normal.

According to many experts, high quality products should contain no more than 20% chalk. Excess chalk leads to a decrease in the strength of the material. Such an ingredient belongs to inexpensive components, so it is often used in manufacturing to reduce the cost of products. In order to check the content of this element in the material, it is enough to bend the angle of the bar. If a crack does not occur in the bending area, then such material is allowed to be used.
When choosing a finishing building material, you should purchase a lining for street decoration.

Sheathing the walls and ceiling with plastic is the fastest and most practical way to complete a home renovation.

Are you planning to use plastic lining during interior finishing work? Then step by step instructions for its installation with visual photo illustrations, you will come in handy. Any home master is quite capable of coping with the whole process without involving expensive specialists.

From preparing props to screwing screws

Preparation of tools and materials;
Lathing manufacturing;
Installation of lining elements.

Let's consider them in more detail:

Stage number 1: preparation of tools and materials

In order for the installation of PVC lining with your own hands to be easy and high-quality, you should have a number of the following tools and materials at hand besides it itself:

Perforator for drilling concrete walls. If you have them made of wood, then an ordinary drill will be enough;
Hacksaw with a fine tooth for cutting lining;

screwdriver for driving screws. In extreme cases, you can get by with a Phillips screwdriver, but then get ready for the fact that the entire installation process will turn out to be a very long and painful task;
spirit level to control the horizontal and vertical of the crate. In addition to it, a plumb line can also be useful;
Mounting knife. In some places, plastic is easier to correct with it, rather than with a saw or a jigsaw;
Construction stapler. At the same time, do not forget to purchase special brackets for working with plastic;
Marker with tape measure for marking;
Reiki with a section of 40 by 50 mm for the construction of a crate;

Set of dowels and screws. For wooden walls one self-tapping screw will suffice.

Stage number 2: making the crate

So, we pick up the tools and carry out the second stage of the planned work:

Cleansing walls from the old finish, which can be wallpaper, decorative plaster or paint;
Putty or plaster existing cracks. At the same time, it is not necessary to achieve complete leveling of the surface, as a result it will hide all the irregularities;
Eliminate all construction debris.

Fasten the first rail horizontally with self-tapping screws under the ceiling, having previously drilled holes in the wall for dowels;
We go down 500 mm and similarly install the next bar;
So we fill the entire wall. In this case, the lower bar should be near the floor, for which you can correct the last indent;
Checking the position of all elements with the help of a spirit level;

Finishing the horizontal rails, we leave small ventilation gaps between the individual segments, as shown in the diagram. They will provide further ventilation of the space between the wall and the finish, eliminating the formation of mold.

Ventilation gaps are, of course, good, but in order to completely eliminate the appearance of fungus under the plastic, I recommend that you pre-treat the crate bars with drying oil or other antiseptic impregnation. The price of such mixtures is much lower than the need for re-repair in case of damage. wooden frame mold.

Stage number 3: installation of lining elements

After the crate is ready, you can proceed directly to the installation of the lining itself:

A photo	Description
Bracket attachment points	Around the perimeter of the wall set the starting bars; We close the corner special plastic corner. Fixation can be performed both with self-tapping screws and with a stapler. When choosing the first option, it is convenient to use clamps to completely hide the mounting system from prying eyes.
Use a hacksaw with a fine tooth	Carry out cutting if necessary plastic sections. At the same time, do not forget that the markings are applied to the back of the product, so as not to spoil its appearance.
	Paste the first panel into the grooves of the starting corner vertical bar, as well as top and bottom horizontal; We fix it at the extreme edge at all points of contact with the crate using self-tapping screws or a stapler; Insert the next panel already in the groove of the previous one and also perform fixation; We fill the entire wall.

In order to increase the thermal insulation properties of the wall, insulation materials can be laid under the plastic lining between the cells of the crate. It is also convenient to hide wiring elements or other communications there.

It is noteworthy that the decoration of the ceiling with the material in question is carried out absolutely according to the same principle as the wall cladding. Of course,

Facing with this material is a very simple and “clean” method of finishing a room. One of the significant advantages of lining is the highest manufacturability of installation work.

A wall made of plastic lining is assembled as a constructor for young children.

PVC panels are an excellent alternative to time-consuming and expensive repairs, providing a convenient and easy-to-use decorative finishing material.

Therefore, anyone can do the installation of plastic lining with their own hands. Another important advantage of plastic lining is the almost complete absence of various dust, dirt, waste and other "side effects" that simply cannot be avoided when performing repair work with others building materials designed for interior decoration.

Features of this material

Auxiliary profiles ensure the connection of panels along the outer and inside corners, are used when framing window and doorways, niches, arches and other interior elements.

Plastic lining can be easily cut with your own hands both across and along, which is why there are no problems with this material when installation is performed.

Between themselves, this finishing material is connected according to the simple principle of "groove to groove". With this type of connection, the jointing may not match the colors of the panels at all, or even be mirrored.

Inserts are flat and embossed. The lining has a number of other advantages:

Democratic price.
Easy to assemble.
Aesthetic appearance that does not change throughout the life of the material.
Rooms that have been paneled look cozy and original, and only water and a little detergent are needed to keep them clean.
The material is made of rigid polyvinyl chloride, and its hollow internal structure guarantees quite high sound and heat insulation characteristics.
With the help of plastic lining, you can easily hide all the bumps, etc. without much effort.

Installation of plastic lining can be carried out in several ways:

by means of nails having wide caps and preferably treated with a coating that prevents the development of corrosion;
using building brackets;
adhesive mixtures and compositions;
using self-tapping screws.

If the do-it-yourself lining is mounted on a surface in a vertical position, then the plastic lining must be fixed in increments of no more than 600 mm.

If the installation of the lining is planned to be carried out on the ceiling, then the step should be no more than 500 mm in order to avoid possible sagging in the future.

In any case, plastic lining should be attached exclusively to a clean and perfectly smooth surface. Therefore, you should not be lazy, but take a cloth in your hand and wipe the surface.

Where to start the construction process?

In order to carry out the installation of plastic lining with your own hands, you will need the following materials and tools:

lining plastic;
staples;
a pistol designed for staples;
saw;
drill;
self-tapping screws;
wooden slats;
fine sandpaper;
stationery knife;
marker or marker.

Stage 1

For walls, the width between the rails should not exceed 30 - 40 cm, for the ceiling - no more than 30 cm. The rails for the crate are attached to the wall perpendicular to the direction of the panels.

Before starting the installation of the lining, it is necessary to build a frame. Of course, you can glue this finishing material directly to the wall surface itself, using ordinary liquid nails for this purpose.

But this option is possible only on condition that the surface on which the lining will be glued is perfectly flat.

Often this becomes possible only after the walls have been finished. drywall sheets. In ordinary construction, even the surface of the walls in panel houses have their own flaws, and if you stick a plastic lining on them, it will easily fall off after a while.

With the help of the frame, the surface of the walls is leveled and, of course, the fastening process is simplified.

In order to create a crate. it is necessary to carry out the installation of rails by means of self-tapping screws over the entire surface where it is planned to fasten the lining. The rails must be fixed horizontally. The distance between them should be no more than 50 cm.

This crate will help to securely mount the plastic lining with your own hands.

Stage 2

Scheme of installation of plastic lining: 1. Mount the grate perpendicular to the direction PVC mounting panels. 2. Additional profiles are used to finish wall and ceiling joints and solve corners. 3. Insert the panel into the initial profile, and fix it.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic lining can be carried out using nails with fairly wide hats, self-tapping screws, or staples specially created for such purposes.

The latter method is the simplest and saves a lot of time, because the protrusion of the fastening bar is rather narrow, so fixing it with self-tapping screws or nails is quite problematic.

You need to measure the desired height plastic panel and cut it off with an ordinary saw or a hacksaw with small teeth. Next, the cut edge must be sanded with fine sandpaper, so that later there is no injury to the skin of the hands.

We continue installation work

Stage 3

The facing part is inserted into the profile groove, and then it is fastened to each of the transverse guides. At the final stage of the cladding, before attaching its last element, it is necessary to first fix the finished profile.

Direct installation of plastic lining with your own hands.

The first panel must be inserted into the corner or the starting strip and securely fasten its edge with staples in those places where the panel edge comes into contact with the frame rail. The actual installation of each panel is carried out in 5 or 6 places.

Next, insert the next panel into the grooves formed and fix it in the same way as the previous one. Installation is desirable to start from the corner. If the plastic lining is installed in such premises as a bathroom or shower room, then it is necessary to seal the connection from the bottom of the lining and the starting profile.

In order to seal, it is necessary to use silicone that is resistant to moisture or another similar sealant. Do-it-yourself plastic lining can be mounted not only on the surface of the wall, but also on the ceiling.

The most difficult step is inserting the very last panel into the final bar, which is why it is recommended to put a corner on it immediately. In fact, the last panel is held on the bracket of the previous panel and rests against the wall.

Final moments of work

Stage 4

For ceiling lights the locations of the holes are easily cut with a clerical knife.

After completing the installation of the panels with your own hands, you should cut holes in the material for sockets and switches (if, of course, they are required).

This work is carried out using an ordinary clerical knife, jigsaw or hacksaw. Previously, at the place where the cutout will be located, it is necessary to make markings with a marker or felt-tip pen.

Plastic lining exists in a wide variety of shades, so there should not be any difficulties with the selection of colors. With its help, you can realize almost any design idea, while spending a minimum amount of your own efforts and, of course, your precious time.

Installation of such a finishing material is very simple, so absolutely everyone can handle it. It will also not be difficult to buy lining, because it is sold in any hardware store and is quite cheap.

In addition, plastic lining can be used for outdoor decoration country houses, cottages, etc. Such a finishing material will help make the external and, of course, the internal appearance of your home unique and attractive.

In addition to ease of installation and its own aesthetic qualities, plastic lining has another significant advantage - it does not require any special care.

It is enough just to wipe the material with a soft cloth dipped in soapy water as it gets dirty.

Therefore, if you are still thinking whether to carry out installation work to install plastic panels at home, you should cast aside all doubts and get to work. positive qualities this material has much more than negative ones, and by installing the lining, you will never regret it.