What you need for laying the foam block. How to put foam blocks on glue - the nuances of installation. We prepare the foundation for the house for masonry work

06.03.2020

Laying foam blocks with your own hands is not such a complicated process, and most importantly, it is fast. After all, it has a large volume and the space fills up quickly. We will consider how to lay foam blocks today.

Everything has its own technology and blocks are no exception. On the video in this article you can see the whole process of doing the work. Instructions will also be offered and you will not miss anything.

Foam block masonry technology

Laying the foam block with your own hands is done on the mortar, and you also need to pick it up. It should be noted right away that if there is no external finish of the plane, then it is best to use a cement-based mixture. It is most well tolerated by temperature extremes and high humidity.

Applied solutions

Foam blocks are laid in two rows or one, it does not matter.

You immediately need to decide on the solution:

Cement-sand classic mortar	It is prepared in the following ratio: 1 part of cement and 4 parts of sand, water, depending on the consistency of the solution. Additional additives can be added to such solutions to improve the basic specifications mixtures. The price of this material is not high, it can be used for laying not very high-quality blocks. But there is also a drawback due to the wide seams obtained by using such a solution, the thermal conductivity of the entire structure increases.
Lime composition	This solution is used quite often: The solution is light, it is evenly distributed over the plane and fills the seam; There is also a drawback, it should not be left open, it is better to use it when you are doing another plane facing.
Special glue	It is sold in dry form and before use, water is added to the dry mixture until the desired density of the solution is obtained. The thickness of the seams after using a special solution may lie in the range of 2-3 mm. Pros: the possibility of obtaining such seams, ease of preparation, good masonry strength, reduced heat loss. Cons: it is desirable to use high-quality compounds, masonry should be trusted to professionals who know how to lay foam blocks.
tile adhesive	Ordinary frost-resistant tile adhesive. Tile adhesives are intended not only for laying tiles, but they can be used for laying foam blocks, especially since they can also be used for outdoor work. The technology of laying foam blocks involves the use of reinforcement, which is produced using metal mesh or reinforcement, which fits into pre-cut grooves on the surface of the foam blocks.

Laying foam blocks on cement mortars

Fundamentally, laying on other compositions is no different. The working principle is the same.

We prepare tools and materials

A tool for laying foam blocks is needed, as well as for laying bricks.

And the list is as follows:

A container for kneading, it is better if it does not have stiffeners. Then you can make a quality batch;
Hacksaw or grinder with a disk, there should be a small tooth. Then the cut will be even;
You will need a trowel;
Spade for mixing mortar.
Unnecessary buckets, because after the cement mortar it is unlikely that they can be used anywhere.
Building level.
Lacing.
Rubber mallet.
Trowel (trowel).
River sand or mountain.
Cement brand M400.
Soapy water.

Attention: It is also necessary to properly prepare the place for masonry. You must move freely. Work will not work on the ladder. It is best to purchase or rent scaffolding.

Solution preparation

Since all tools and expendable materials already in place, you can safely start mixing the solution:

Dry ingredients are poured into the container, such as sand and cement at the rate of 1 part cement and 3 parts sand.
First you need to take a shovel and mix the dry ingredients, after which water is added to the mixture in small portions so as not to “smear” with the density of the solution. at this stage, soapy water or plasticizers should be added to the solution.
In the case of a concrete mixer, the sequence of actions is somewhat different: first, 1 bucket of water is poured into the concrete mixer, then 1 bucket of cement is poured into the same place. At the same time, the concrete mixer must constantly work. After the cement and water are well mixed, 3 buckets of sand are added to them. The output should be a solution of the required density. If this does not work out, you can add a little water or a couple of shovels of sand to the mixture. This will not affect the quality of the solution.
During operation, the solution should be stirred regularly so that it does not settle, and the mass is constantly homogeneous. In order to make the work not seem very hard, you can offer a few tips:
At elevated air temperatures, the masonry can be constantly sprinkled with water, and at the end of work, it is advisable to cover the masonry with a film so as not to force the drying process.

masonry technique

When purchasing foam blocks, you need, first of all, to pay attention to the quality, evidence of which will be their appearance.

Attention: You should not take foam blocks made using the forming technology if it is planned to build not an outbuilding, but a responsible building. On such foam blocks there are traces of lubricant that reduce the adhesion of materials. For this, blocks produced using cutting technology are better suited. They are distinguished by regular geometric shapes and a clean surface.

So:

The first row of blocks must be laid on the solution, no matter what compositions will be used later. This is necessary in order to lay out the first row very well, since the thickness of the seam will allow each block to be adjusted.
Subsequent layers are laid out according to the usual method. brickwork, with obligatory dressing of seams. This means that the vertical seam of each previous layer must be at least 20 cm from the edge of the next block. In other words, the blocks are laid out in a checkerboard pattern, making sure that the seams are 100% filled, otherwise the desired quality, based on the characteristics of the material, will not work.
For greater structural strength, do not forget about reinforcement. This also applies to the construction of lintels over door and window openings. They are poured with concrete mortar, having equipped the formwork before that and placing a metal frame for reinforcement inside the formwork.

An armored belt is being built using the same technology: formwork is installed, a metal frame is laid around the entire perimeter and poured with concrete. The height of the armored belt can range from 10 to 20 cm, depending on the area of the foam block building.
Laying the foam block in two rows or one is done taking into account the dressing. The seam should never match in order.
During the laying process, special attention should be paid to filling the joints. They must be filled as much as possible, otherwise there will be significant losses.
Mandatory reinforcement is made every 3-5 rows.
To evenly distribute the load on the foam block structure, a continuous armored belt is formed on top of the foam concrete masonry, based on concrete pouring.
Before starting masonry, do not forget about the waterproofing layer. It can be arranged by putting a couple of layers of roofing material.

They start laying from the corners, carefully exposing the foam blocks using the building level. Then, between the corners, a rope is pulled, which will serve as a beacon, when laying the wall.

Laying foam blocks on glue

If a foam concrete blocks are of acceptable quality, then adhesives can be used for their installation.

In this case, the procedure is as follows:

Blocks with geometric errors of no more than 1 mm are suitable for laying on glue. This is very important, since the thickness of the seams can be no more than 2-3 mm.
As mentioned above, the first row is laid on a cement-sand mortar, while each block is carefully monitored. From how much the first row will be laid out, the wall will turn out so evenly. During the laying process, you can use a rubber hammer to put the foam block in its place.
The subsequent rows are laid out on glue. The adhesive is applied to the surface of the blocks with a notched trowel. The layer thickness is no more than 5 mm, which will decrease to 2-3 mm when installing the block. During application, it should be controlled that the adhesive is evenly distributed over the entire surface.
In the process of masonry, it is imperative to control the evenness of the masonry using building level and plumb.
Door and window lintels are formed in the same way as in the previous case, using concrete pouring with mandatory reinforcement. In the same way, the armo-belt is formed.
Reinforcement reinforcement is laid every 3-5 rows, while special attention should be paid to reinforcing the corners. Given the fact that the thickness of the seams when using glue is minimal, then after laying out the 3rd or 5th row around the entire perimeter, a groove is cut out in the center of the masonry, into which the reinforcement is laid and filled with glue. The reinforcement should not be higher than the level of the blocks.

And in conclusion, I would like to say that structures made of foam blocks should not be heavily loaded, and therefore it is better to mount light ones, wooden roofs using lungs roofing materials. This will increase the durability of the foam block building.

The technology of laying foam blocks is not at all complicated. The main thing is to do everything carefully and slowly. Doing the work yourself will be a guarantee of quality; before starting, you should look at the photo and draw up a construction plan. After that, you can start.

Blocks made of cellular concrete allow their traditional joining or gluing. Making a decision related to the choice of masonry technique can have an impact on further heat loss in the house. With the development of building materials, there are doubts about the application of methods for connecting brickwork elements. Adhesive for foam blocks makes it possible to perform a thin-layer seam with a thickness of 1 to 3 mm. Compared to traditional 15 mm sutures, this solution provides many significant advantages in laying of foam blocks.

The advantages of a thin seam when laying foam blocks

The minimum seams between the blocks level the cold bridges - due to the thickness of the seam, there is a significant effect on reducing heat loss. It should also be borne in mind - any mixture that does not combine elements of cellular concrete is a material 4 times easier to conduct heat, so the smaller it is, the better the wall will be insulated. Heat loss from 1 mm joint thickness in a single-layer foam block wall is only approx. 4%. A wall built from the same blocks, on a mortar with a traditional joint thickness of 12 mm, generates heat losses that exceed 25%.

A thin seam gives a large load-bearing capacity of the wall

You can come across an erroneous opinion, especially among "specialists", that the thicker the seam layer, the wall will be able to withstand heavy loads. The situation is quite the opposite - the seam is the weakest element of the wall. The thinner its layer, the stronger the wall and withstand more loads. Here you can use the analogy of superglues, which stick together two surfaces within a few seconds, forming a strong connection only if a very thin layer is used.

The use of a thin seam provides economic advantages

It is worth noting that the cost of manufacturing 1 m 2 of the wall also depends on the quantity and price of the mixture that we must use to connect the brickwork elements. Walls made of blocks 20 cm thick have an adhesive consumption of approx. 2.4 kg and approx. 0.6 liters of water for every m 2 of the wall. Applying cement mortar at the same wall thickness - 24 dm3 of mortar is consumed - 7.5 liters of water and 42 kg of dry mix.

Step-by-step instructions - how to put foam blocks on glue

Blocks of foam concrete are placed on the adhesive solution. They require a very smooth and clean surface, so the surface of the blocks must be sanded and dusted before applying the mortar. In order for the seam to have the appropriate thickness, the solution is applied with special trowels:

The surface of the first layer of masonry elements must be leveled with a special float and leveling mortar, and then thoroughly cleaned with a brush from small particles and residues after grinding. With the same grater, we can remove bumps from vertical surfaces.
The foundation must be waterproofed. The first layer of blocks should be laid on a base of conventional cement-lime mortar. We lay the first element directly on the prepared mixture. You need to remember about maintaining the ideal level of the first elements and their alignment.
The contents of the bag with glue must be poured into a container with a measured amount of water recommended by the manufacturer, then mixed with a mechanical mixer until a homogeneous mass is obtained so that there are no lumps in it.
A layer of adhesive solution 1-3 mm thick is applied to the cleaned surface. The mortar should be applied with a conventional spatula that matches the width of the walls. When laying on a thin-layer mortar, the blocks are not sprayed with water. The control of the correct location of the masonry elements in the corners of the building, as well as along the walls, should be checked using a level and a cord. Irregularities of individual brickwork elements are corrected with a rubber mallet.
In the same way, we lay each next layer of foam concrete.
Before plastering the surface with mortar, fill in potholes and damage that may occur during masonry. Thanks to the use of adhesive solutions, as well as special tools designed for applying glue, you can significantly reduce the time and optimize the consumption of glue.

Considering that the blocks are produced with high precision, this allows you to use a number of advantages arising from the possibility of using glue for foam blocks. The choice of this technique for connecting masonry elements is the optimal and safe option, regardless of historical habits and decisions that cannot withstand the pressure of these technical requirements.

Foam concrete blocks are in demand in private construction, they are valued for their high speed and ease of masonry, low weight load and good insulating properties. The cost of work when contacting professionals varies from 1200 to 3000 rubles per 1 m3, in order to save money it is better to do it yourself. The installation technology of products is considered simple, but a number of rules are mandatory, it is important to familiarize yourself with them in advance.

The main requirements for working with this building material include:

Laying on a stable monolithic base, reliably protected from moisture, at least 30-50 cm above the ground.
Reinforcement of rows with reinforcement - the first and every fourth.
Armo-belt tab in the upper part around the entire perimeter bearing walls for binding floor slabs or mauerlat roofing systems.
Exclusion of cold bridges: it is best to put on a thin layer of a special one, all jumpers and metal elements are insulated.
Mandatory protection of foam concrete structures from moisture and steam.
When erecting load-bearing walls - the use of blocks with the desired strength grade (not lower than D400, more is better).
Verification of the certificate and geometric accuracy of products even before purchase.

Differences in masonry for glue and cement

The final characteristics of the constructed structure and the need for external insulation depend on the type of connecting solution. Two options are possible: laying on special adhesives or on a cement-sand composition. In the first case, ready-made dry mixes are used (Found Selform, Praktik Bergauf, Aero, Ceresit CT 21 and many others) based on Portland cement, quartz sand, modifiers and polymer powders, diluted strictly according to the instructions. The advantage is the creation of a thin seam - within 1-3 mm, no more. This eliminates the formation of cold bridges; with the right wall thickness, foam concrete blocks will not need to be insulated. Also, the advantages of using glue include the evenness of the rows, the possibility of installing products with your own hands, even in the absence of work experience.

Cement mortar itself is cheaper, but due to the inevitable increase in the thickness of the joints, its consumption increases and, as a result, the costs are not inferior to glue. The optimal proportions of PC M400 and sand are 1:3 with a W / C ratio within 0.5. To improve mobility, it is recommended to introduce plasticizers (the cheapest is liquid soap). This option is chosen only in the case of poor geometry of the blocks, due to the different thermal conductivity of foam concrete and cement, bridges of cold and heat loss inevitably form.

Another reason to put foam blocks on glue is an increase in the bearing capacity of the walls. The opinion that the greater the thickness of the seam, the more reliable the structure will turn out, is erroneous, such areas perceive loads worse and, in fact, are a weak link. It is also worth considering that when using self-prepared cement mortar, even rows are obtained only from experienced masons, and their services are expensive. The time spent on mixing glue or CPR is approximately the same, but in terms of saving effort on preparing components, the first variety wins.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for laying foam blocks

Before starting work, tools are prepared: a construction mixer and clean containers for spreading glue, hacksaws for cutting, a rubber hammer, levels, a notched trowel, wall chasers, a planer and a grater, brushes or a special hair dryer to remove dust. Next, follow the following scheme of actions:

Preparation of foam blocks for installation: inspection, if necessary, leveling with a fine grater and dust removal, sawing to the desired dimensions.
Waterproofing the top edge of the foundation. First, 2-3 cm of cement mortar is applied, two layers must be put on top of it roll materials with the longest service life. The width of the waterproofing layer should exceed the thickness of the future walls.
Laying the first row of blocks - from the highest angle, exclusively on the cement composition. To achieve the ideal level, a tensioned cord is used and it is carefully checked. The first row is necessarily reinforced - two strobes equidistant from the edge are drilled in the laid foam blocks, into which a solution and metal bars with a cross section of 8 mm are laid (when the reinforcement scheme is agreed with specialists, thinner rods can be placed, but not less than 5 mm).
Installation of subsequent rows - from the corners to the center, with dressing of foam concrete blocks. The glue is applied with a notched trowel on the horizontal surface of the already laid products and on the end of the placed products. Foam blocks are slightly pressed against each other, if necessary, they are tapped to seal. Excess is removed immediately, the same applies to the correction of displaced foam blocks. Checking deviations in level is carried out on each row without exception.
Laying of a monolithic reinforced belt along the entire perimeter of the bearing walls. Two options are possible: installation of formwork and pouring concrete mortar with simultaneous insulation of the edges or the use of special U-shaped blocks.

The above guide is also suitable for the construction of partitions. In this case, the first row is tied to a flat, clean and moisture-proof floor with reinforcement. Special beacons left in advance at the corners of the supporting structures help to correctly lay the walls of foam blocks inside the house. If it is necessary to bind a new partition, dowels are used that go 20 cm deep into the already operated walls.

To simplify the process and improve the quality of the connection, it is recommended that the foam blocks be slightly moistened. It is important to put them as tightly as possible; if the rows deviate horizontally, the products are polished with a planer. Construction dust after each treatment must be removed, it affects the reliability of the connection of neighboring blocks. The work is carried out mainly in the warm season, at an air temperature of +5 to +25 °C.

Possible mistakes

Violations of block laying technology include:

The absence of masonry mortar in vertical joints and the appearance of voids between products. Such an error is observed when saving glue spread on the walls, it leads to the accumulation and freezing of moisture inside the walls of foam concrete. As a result, the risk of destruction of the seam or the block itself increases.
Lack of dressing or insufficient displacement of products in subsequent rows. The recommended minimum is a quarter of the length, ideally they are shifted exactly by half.
Amendment of foam blocks after the glue has hardened or the CPR has set. Any changes should be carried out no later than 5-15 minutes, deviations from the level are checked on each row.
Refusal of reinforcement.

Most mistakes are made during the finishing process, the quite understandable desire of the owners to close the foam concrete from moisture as best and as quickly as possible must still be correctly implemented. Blocks shrink within 3-6 months, earlier plastering leads to the formation of cracks. To exclude the accumulation of moisture in the foam blocks, they first carry out their interior decoration and only then proceed to the facade.

The most serious violation is the closure external walls impermeable materials without organizing gaps, ventilated hinged systems or special plaster are best suited to protect cellular concrete grades.

The cost of laying foam blocks

The minimum price of 1 m3 of high-quality foam concrete suitable for the construction of load-bearing structures is 2500 rubles, the estimated consumption of glue per cube is 20 kg (about 150 rubles), and reinforcement is also added to the total cost of building materials when laying with their own hands.

The services of professionals cost no less than 1200 rubles for the installation of 1 m3, when erecting load-bearing walls they reach 3000. The value of prices is influenced by the number of storeys, type and size of foam concrete blocks, their geometric accuracy, overall difficulty project.

Foam blocks as construction material appeared relatively recently. Unlike brickwork, the technology of which has evolved over many centuries, the methods are still being improved. This building material has a low specific gravity and high porosity along with excellent heat-shielding properties. And the speed of building houses from foam blocks and the relatively low cost of this material make it very popular. Therefore, instructions on how to lay foam blocks will be very helpful.

Like aerated concrete, foam concrete can be placed on a cement-sand mortar or on a special glue. The choice of solution depends on the technology for manufacturing foam blocks. Foam block masonry needs to be reinforced. Before installing the ceiling, a reinforced concrete belt is made on top of the masonry.

Tools for laying foam blocks:

drill with a nozzle mixer for mixing the solution;
nozzle on a drill for making holes for electric points;
trowel;
rubber mallet for leveling blocks;
building level;
hacksaw and corner for cutting foam blocks;
grater and planer for leveling the surface of the masonry before the next row and leveling the surface of the walls before applying plaster or putty;
wall chaser;
electric milling cutter (for making grooves in masonry for laying reinforcement);
carriages for uniform application of the adhesive solution;
wide brush for removing debris and dust from the walls.

The production of foam blocks can be done in two ways: molding and cutting.

The casting method is different in that the foam mixture is poured into molds and solidifies in the form of durable blocks. Such blocks are placed only on a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1: 4. Before proceeding with the laying of foam concrete, it must be moistened with water to ensure uniform drying of the solution.

The manufacture of foam blocks from a large block dried in an oven and cut into elements of the required dimensions is a cut manufacturing method. For laying such blocks, you can use special glue. This manufacturing method differs from injection molding in high dimensional accuracy, the error of which is no more than 1 mm.

Cast foam blocks may have fuzzy lines, so they need to be prepared before work:

cleaning sharp corners and large burrs;
cut significant irregularities;
chip removal.

How to lay foam blocks? Cast put on a cement-sand mortar. It should be applied with a notched trowel or trowel. The thickness of horizontal joints should be 10-15 mm, and vertical - 8-15 mm.

Cut foam blocks are placed on a special glue.

The surface of the wall is smooth, which greatly simplifies its further finishing. The thickness of the joints when laying such blocks does not exceed 2 mm. There are no “cold bridges” in such walls, which improves its thermal insulation characteristics.

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Foundation arrangement

The reliability and durability of masonry from foam concrete blocks primarily depend on the quality of the foundation. It can be made monolithic, or it can be assembled from concrete blocks with a reinforced concrete strapping belt.

Foam blocks are distinguished by rather low indicators of hygroscopicity, however, they still react negatively to the appearance of moisture, absorbing it. Therefore, it is necessary to protect the walls from the possible penetration of water. When constructing the foundation, horizontal and vertical external waterproofing is necessarily done. The level of the plinth must be raised above the blind area by at least 50 cm.

The foundation waterproofing technology has the following order:

a layer is distributed over the foundation cement-sand mortar 1-2 cm thick;
waterproofing material is laid (for example, waterproofing);
cement-sand mortar is applied.

Only after these works can be erected.

One of the advantages of foam blocks is that anyone can build a house out of them. Laying foam blocks with your own hands is not difficult. The main thing is accuracy and adherence to technology. By choosing blocks and related materials of high quality, you can build a house that will last for many years.

You will need

For construction, you will first need foam blocks. They are supplied in pallets of 0.9, 1.44 or 1.8 m3. For bearing walls, it is necessary to use foam blocks no thinner than 200 mm, and they must be made of foam concrete with a density of at least 800 kg / m3. For partitions, you can take blocks with a thickness of 100 mm.

In addition to foam blocks, you will need:

mortar or adhesive for styling;
styling tool;
reinforcing mesh and reinforcement in bars.

Required tool:

Trowels. With their help, you can accurately apply the solution, providing its thickness of 1-3 mm. The width of the trowel corresponds to the width of the blocks, thanks to which the mortar is placed evenly over the entire surface of the block. Dosing carriage: used for fast application of adhesive solution with a thickness of 1-3 mm on horizontal rectilinear surfaces. The width of the dosing carriage corresponds to the thickness of the blocks. Cutter (Shtroborez). Tool for cutting grooves by hand (for example, for electrical wiring).
A hacksaw is used to cut blocks. Sanding board - serves to eliminate small irregularities in the laying of foam blocks. Planer - serves to level large irregularities in block masonry, as well as to change the shape of the block.
Corner - designed for even sawing of products made of cellular concrete. Spatula - used for grouting chips and seams of products made of cellular concrete. Mallet - a special rubber hammer for working with foam blocks. We strongly recommend using a rubber mallet for work.
Level - used to control horizontal and vertical planes. Construction cord - used as a guideline during the laying of walls and the installation of various structures. Coil 100 m. Level - to control compliance with the geometry of the masonry.

You may also need special nozzles for a drill for cutting holes and chasing blocks. Instead of a trowel, you can use a special carriage for uniform application of the solution.

Glue or mortar

Foam blocks can be laid on special glue or on cement mortar. Glue is easier to prepare - for this you just need to dilute the finished mixture with water and mix thoroughly. The cement mixture can be made independently by mixing cement with sand.

The advantage of laying blocks on a cement-sand mixture is that this mixture can cover up some minor defects on the surface of the blocks during the construction of walls. Otherwise, glue is more convenient. Adhesive joints can be made as thin as possible - up to 1 millimeter, while the cement joint should be 2-4 mm thick. The consumption of mortar from cement is six times higher than that of glue, which means that in the end the cost of laying a foam block for glue is more profitable. You can put blocks on the glue even in frost (up to -10 ° C), you just need to purchase a special frost-resistant glue for this.

Foreman's advice:
When laying the blocks, do not forget to periodically mix the glue or cement-sand mixture so that it remains homogeneous.

Block stacking

The laying of walls from foam blocks can be carried out at temperatures from 0 to + 40 ° C. At higher temperatures, the foam blocks must be moistened with water. At the same time, it is not recommended to work in the rain. In winter, it is also better to refrain from laying foam blocks or do it strictly in dry weather. For the winter, the blocks must be protected from the effects of precipitation, so it is worth calculating the time in order to have time not only to build walls, but also the roof, as well as to complete the exterior.

Regardless of whether the blocks are placed on cement or adhesive, it is recommended to lay the first row on cement. must first be waterproofed - covered with rolled bituminous material. After that, it is necessary to level the surface for laying the first row with a cement-sand mixture.

The first row should be as level as possible with a level or level. The laying of foam blocks starts from the corners. A cord is stretched between the corner blocks, which will serve as a guide. Blocks are laid on a layer of mortar and tapped with a hammer. Be sure to coat the side surfaces with a solution so that the seams are not only horizontal, but also vertical. The blocks are stacked so that the vertical seams of the first row are in the middle of the next.

Each installed block must be leveled, checking the accuracy of laying with a level vertically and horizontally. Irregularities arising during the laying process must be immediately rubbed with a grater, and dirt and dust should be swept away with a brush. Do not try to level the surface with an additional layer of mortar - this will worsen the thermal insulation properties of the foam concrete masonry.

Laying can be carried out in one or two rows. If the blocks are stacked in two rows, then the vertical seams of one row should be overlapped by the blocks of the second row to minimize heat loss. masonry interior partitions performed in one row.

Reinforcement

Reinforcement is needed in order to increase the reliability of the foam concrete masonry. It is made every 3-4 rows of blocks into the cement mortar for masonry. It not only strengthens the masonry, but also prevents foam concrete from cracking.

For armored belts, U-blocks are used, in the cavities of which reinforcement is laid with a thickness of at least 10 mm and poured with concrete. Or they fix wooden formwork on the walls, inside which thin blocks or foam plastic are installed for thermal insulation, after which the reinforcement is poured with concrete. The recommended height of the armored belt is 20 cm.

Before installing interfloor ceilings, it is necessary to strengthen the walls - this is a monolithic reinforced concrete row closed around the entire perimeter of the foam block box.

Finishing

After the box of foam blocks is built and brought under the roof, you can start finishing. The easiest option is plastering. Before finishing work, all chips and cracks on the walls are filled with mortar, and the irregularities are rubbed with a grater. After that, the first layer of plaster is applied to the wall, into which the reinforcing mesh is pressed, then the second layer is applied. After the plaster has dried, a finishing coat is applied. For outdoor work, it is better to use a mixture based on cement.

In addition to plastering, foam block masonry is protected from external influences by hinged ventilated facades. Metal rails are installed on the walls, on which panels are hung. It can be siding, block house, wall paneling, porcelain stoneware and other outdoor materials. You can also veneer a building made of foam blocks with bricks, but this is expensive and impractical.

After exterior finish you can move on to summing up communications and interior decoration home built by hand.