Drainage pipes for the removal of groundwater. Drainage pipes for draining groundwater - the basis of the drainage system of the site The diameter of the drainage pipe for giving
Drainage systems are a necessary element of site improvement. The main components of this system are drainage pipes for drainage ground water. In the old days, pipes made of ceramics and asbestos cement were used to collect excess moisture. In modern conditions, a plastic drainage corrugated perforated pipe with geotextile can be an ideal solution, but other types of pipes can be used to drainage system.
What is site drainage? This is a large set of measures aimed at removing excess moisture from the soil. To build such a system for a summer residence or a private house, you will need pipes for drainage of the site. Let's figure out what the principles of operation of the drainage pipe are, how to choose the diameter of the drainage pipe and how to make a water drainage system on the site.
Types of drainage pipes
What distinguishes a drainage pipe from a conventional sewer pipe? Holes available! Since the principle of operation of the system assembled to drain water from the site is that moisture from the soil will enter through the holes into the pipe.
Usage drainage pipes without perforation, it is advisable only for the removal of already collected water. But if necessary, a drainage pipe without perforation can also be used to install the main system on the site.
How to make an ordinary pipe turn into a perforated drain pipe? Drill holes in it! Such a do-it-yourself drainage pipe will work no worse than a finished perforated pipe.
The complexity of this work depends on what the pipe is made of. Working with a sewer pipe made of plastic (polystyrene foam or HDPE) is easy. But if the pipes are made of ceramics, then making holes will be problematic. Therefore, it is better to use ceramic pipes for installing a chimney, and for a system used when draining a site, it is better to choose plastic drainage pipes.
Advantages of plastic pipes
Special drainage plastic pipes have the following set of advantages:
- Have a long service life;
- Light weight facilitates easy transportation and installation;
- Possess the ability to self-cleaning;
- Differ in resistance to silting. The best option for collecting systems is a drainage pipe in geotextile. A drainage pipe with geotextile will last much longer than usual.
- The optimal ratio of quality and price.
- The simplest service. If a drain pipe is used in the filter, then you can forget about the need to flush the system for many years.
- Availability of different sizes polymer pipes allows you to build drainage systems of various capacities. So, in those places where it is necessary to divert a large number of water, large diameter drainage pipes are required. In these cases, a 300 mm drain pipe is selected. In most cases, the use of a 200 mm drain pipe is sufficient. At a small amount groundwater, a drainage pipe of 160 mm is suitable, and a drainage pipe of 110 mm is usually used if country drainage is equipped.
Advice! With a small amount of groundwater, the drainage pipe 110 in the geotextile filter can also be used when assembling the water drainage system from the house for permanent residence. But still it is better to choose products with a diameter of 200 mm.
Varieties of plastic pipes
What plastic pipes can be used to make a drainage system on the site? According to GOST - drainage pipes can be made of PVC, polyethylene (HDPE and PVD) or polypropylene. The most used option is a PVC drainage pipe. Such pipes are:
- Flexible and rigid. Manufacturers produce rigid pipes 6 or 12 meters long, as well as flexible hoses for drainage, which are sold in reels 40-50 meters long.
- Naked and having a filter shell. To create the most reliable and durable systems, drainage pipes with perforations in the filter are more suitable.
Polypropylene drainage pipe is no less often used. These pipes are produced in various versions, they can be smooth or corrugated pipes, the minimum diameter of such pipes is 50 mm, the stiffness class is SN8.
Corrugated drainage pipes look "harmonized". In fact, these are double-walled drainage pipes. A two-layer drainage pipe consists of: the upper part, represented by corrugations, in which each ledge is a stiffening rib.
Therefore, drainage corrugated pipes are highly durable. BUT inner part, made of a smooth polymer, does not create hydraulic resistance, so the pipelines of the drainage system, assembled from corrugated pipes, have good throughput.
Another material option for collecting the drainage system is polyethylene drainage pipes. These products are produced in a large assortment; for their manufacture, polyethylene of high or low pressure. Commonly used types include:
- Flexible single-layer corrugated HDPE drainage pipe can be produced with or without perforation. This option is perfect for the construction of shallow drainage systems.
- Smooth inside and at the same time corrugated outside, perforated drainage pipe made of polyethylene. This option has a hardness class of SN6 and can be used to install systems located at a depth of up to 4 meters. The pipes may have an additional geotextile filter.
- Flexible polyethylene corrugated drainage pipes with strength class SN8 are suitable for installation of systems located at a depth of up to 10 meters.
- Rigid two-layer drainage corrugated HDPE pipe with strength class SN8 is produced without a filter.
Pipes Perfocore
A separate discussion deserves such material as the drainage pipe Perfokor. For the manufacture of Perfocor pipes, high-modulus polyethylene with mineral additives is used.
Therefore, Perfocor pipes are characterized by increased rigidity characteristics. Most often, Perfocor pipes are used, having a diameter of 110, 160 and 200 mm. If necessary, Perfocor pipes with a diameter of 400 mm can be purchased.
Pipes Logistics
This is a flat drain pipe. rectangular shape supplied in coils. It is made of HDPE, has internal reinforcing elements, which is possible only in a rectangular pipe.
The main advantage of pipes of this type is their compactness. Thus, conventional 110 mm pipes during storage and transportation take up 2.5 times more space than flat pipes of the same size.
Pipe laying instructions
When assembling the system, the corrugated drainage pipe is laid in the prepared ditches, after which the installation begins with the implementation of land works.
Ditch preparation
- Ditches for the drainage system in the ground can be dug using earthmoving equipment or manually.
- The width of the trenches should be approximately 40 cm larger than the diameter of the pipes used. The distance between the drainage ditches depends on the type of soil.
- The trenches need a slight slope (0.5-0.7%) towards the collection well.
- A layer of sand 20 cm high is laid on the compacted earth at the bottom of the trench to create filter layers, it needs to be compacted.
- Next, a layer of crushed stone of the same height is poured onto the sand.
Pipe laying and system assembly
- Drainage pipes are laid in the prepared ditches. If perforation is made only on one side, then when assembling pipelines, they should be laid with holes down.
- How to connect drainage pipes? Drainage pipes are connected using special fittings. The parts to be connected are inserted into the sockets of the fittings.
- At turns, it is necessary to provide for the installation of inspection wells.
Backfilling
- From above, the corrugated pipe for drainage is covered with a layer of crushed stone 20 cm high.
- A layer of sand is poured over the rubble, and further backfilling is carried out with previously excavated soil.
- A pre-cut turf is laid over the ditch.
So, you can build a drainage system on the site with your own hands, since the work, although time-consuming, is not too complicated. For construction, modern polymer drainage pipes and wells should be used, since their use greatly facilitates the installation process. Service life of drainage systems consisting of plastic pipes with filter, is about 50 years old.
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Not every landowner has a perfect location. More often in spring or autumn, during a period of heavy rainfall, the yard, and even the garden area, begins to heat up, which is very harmful for various vegetable and fruit crops. This is where the difficulties begin. Owners dig channels, trying to remove as much moisture from the site as possible, which does not always help. Drainage pipes for the removal of groundwater can become a way out. With their correct location, you can forget about such a problem. But how to place them, what they can be and whether it is possible to make them from what is left of the repair, we will consider today.
Most sites require a drainage system
Drainage pipes allow the removal of groundwater from the site or adjoining territory. They are corrugated thick perforated hoses, which are buried at a certain depth. The principle of operation of pipes for is quite simple. As you know, water always goes where the passage is easier. This law of physics applies to many areas and is never violated. Leaking through the perforation, moisture freely rushes through the pipe to where the master directs it. Thus, water does not need to seep through the ground. As a result, the soil dries up.
Good to know! If in autumn garden plot water stagnates in a certain place, then the soil, not having received the necessary oxygen, begins to die. As a result, next year in this place the harvest will be negligible, or it will not be at all.
Drainage is of particular importance for residential buildings. With an excess of moisture, the foundation of the house will quickly collapse, which will negatively affect the building itself.
Drainage pipes for groundwater drainage: main technical and geometric characteristics
The main difference between such products is the presence or absence of perforation in them. It is for this parameter that pipes for the removal of groundwater are selected. In one case, it is required to remove excess moisture from the soil (perforation is used), and in the other, it is simple to carry out the removed moisture, preventing it from being absorbed into the soil (in this case, the pipe will be solid).
The diameter of the drain is also important. It should be understood that the larger the pipe, the more intensive the removal of moisture will be. On the other hand, if the product is not perforated and is used only as a diverting element, it makes no sense to use too large a diameter - it will simply be irrational.
And yet, of greater interest is the material from which perforated pipes for drainage are made. There are a lot of such materials, and each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, as well as specific areas of application. Let's consider this question in more detail.
Materials for the manufacture of drainage systems for the removal of groundwater
The main materials from which such products are made can be called:
- Ceramics;
- Polypropylene;
- Asbestos cement (chrysotile cement).
A separate item can be called pipes with coconut winding, which have a higher cost. But knowing the materials of manufacture is not enough. It is necessary to understand what are the differences between them, and in which case justified application one pipe or another.
Features of drainage corrugated pipes with geotextile
The main advantage of geotextiles can be called its compatibility with any type of pipe, regardless of the material of manufacture. This material is vapor-permeable, which creates additional air exchange and prevents the development of mold and mildew. By itself, geotextiles do not absorb moisture, but only help to redirect it to the drainage pipe. It is resistant to living microorganisms contained in the soil and is completely uninteresting to rodents. This contributes to a long service life, almost equal to the durability of plastic and polypropylene pipes.
It should be noted that when used, the period between drainage cleanings increases by 4-6 times.
Why perforate drainage lines?
It has already been mentioned that perforation helps to remove excess moisture from the soil. But even here it is worth being careful - fanaticism has not yet led to anything good. If the drainage pipe is too large, and the perforation is very large and frequent, then there is a danger of overdrying the soil of the garden plot.
Good to know! Too large perforation creates the preconditions for the rapid clogging of the drainage with dirt and its silting. Even if the drainage main is clogged by a third, there can be no question of any high-quality outflow of water. Yes, and the well will have to be cleaned quite often.
Manufacturers and features of their products
Manufacturers of similar products Russian market enough. Each brand has its own distinctive features, in comparison with others, which means it is worth focusing on this. Today we will not list all the companies operating in this segment, so as not to burden the esteemed reader with unnecessary information, but the most famous ones are worth considering.
Drainage pipes "Perfokor" and their features
The technical characteristics of these products are quite good. The company itself positions its products as the best in this segment, although many may argue with this. As the saying goes, “there are no comrades for the taste and color”, and therefore we will give some specifications drainage pipes of this company.
| Drainage diameter, mm | Hole width, mm | Number of rows of water inlets | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2 | 3 | 4 | 6 | ||
| 200 | 2,8 | 153-205 | 230-307 | 307-405 | 461-615 |
| 250 | 4 | 118-195 | 178-292 | 238-389 | 356-584 |
| 315 | 4 | 135-211 | 202-317 | 269-422 | 403-634 |
| 400 | 4 | 144-224 | 216-336 | 288-448 | 432-672 |
| 500 | 4 | 129-190 | 194-285 | 258-380 | 388-571 |
| 630 | 4 | 104-156 | 156-234 | 208-312 | 312-468 |
Products of the company "Korsis"
According to the manufacturer, Korsis drainage pipes are manufactured according to a special Italian technology, which allows one and a half times to increase their service life. Installing them is pretty easy. And although there are models that require the use of couplings when connecting, products with a bell on one side are more popular, allowing for “butt” installation.
Turning to the opinions of Internet users, it can be noted that the drainage systems "Perfokor" and "Korsis" have much in common, including the ease of laying the drainage pipe. This means that advising here is a thankless task and the home master will personally have to decide which of the manufacturers he prefers.
Pragma drainage pipes and their advantages
With the same two-layer structure, the manufacturer promises ease of laying the pipe even at a frost of -200 ° C, which allows you not to wait for the onset of the warm season. These products are able to withstand fairly large loads, which is quite convenient if the drainage of the courtyard of a private house is installed, where cars will drive in. The installation of drainage pipes of this manufacturer is carried out "in a joint", which eliminates the use of additional devices such as couplings.
Drainage "Soft Rock" from the company "Kanatex"
According to Internet users, negative qualities in the products of this brand is simply not. Easy to install, good quality and not too expensive.
One of the features of this drainage pipe is interesting. Between plastic and geotextile there is a layer of special filler, which provides additional filtration. It is for this reason that, regardless of the type of soil, such drainage pipes are laid without any backfilling in “bare” soil, which significantly reduces installation time.
Uponor drainage pipes: are there any differences from previous options
Drainage systems of this brand do not have any special differences from Perfokor or Korsis. High quality, two-layer structure and various options perforations - everything can be called similar to competitors. The only difference is the black color of the outer layer, but this is more of a visual than a technical difference.
How to make a drainage system in your area
The type of drainage can be closed or open. The closed one involves the use of perforated pipes dug into the ground, while the open one is carried out using trays that can be covered with decorative grilles.
Let's analyze in in general terms how you can do both of these types of drainage with your own hands. In order for the dear reader to understand the algorithm of the whole work, we will present several photo examples with explanations.
Open drainage system and its installation algorithm
| A photo | Action to take |
|---|---|
 | On each tray, which are interconnected by means of special locks, the direction of water flow is indicated. This arrow cannot be ignored. Otherwise, you will have to clean the open drain several times a year. |
 | At the end of the highway, a special sand trap is installed, where all the dirt that has fallen into the drainage will settle. This is especially true if the words will be produced in the sewer |
 | Through the mounting level we display required slope drain pipe towards the spillway. A slope of 1-3 cm / m is considered optimal. |
 | If it is necessary to turn the drainage channel, we mark the necessary area, which is cut out with the help of a grinder |
 | At the last stage, we fasten the decorative grille, which also performs the function of protection against large debris and foliage, to the special brackets that come with the kit. |
Having understood in general terms how an open drainage is mounted, you can proceed to the backfill system.
Removal of excess moisture from the soil
| A photo | Action to take |
|---|---|
 | First you need to dig a trench according to the marks where it is necessary to lay a drainage pipe. There is no point in digging too wide - this will only lead to overspending of rubble |
 | The trench can be brought outside the site into the gutter. If this is not possible, you will have to equip a drainage well |
 | We lay geotextiles on the bottom of the trench and pour a small layer of crushed stone. In our case, it was possible not to use bedding, because. a perforated drainage pipe will be laid that already has a geotextile sheath, but we decided that crushed stone would not hurt |
 | A drainage pipe is carefully laid, which is connected to the drain into the well. To do this, you can use simple screws |
 | After the work done, we again pour a layer of crushed stone, cover it with geotextiles and sprinkle with soil. Sod can be used to hide the location of the drainage line. |
It turns out that the drainage device on the site is not so difficult process, which is quite capable of being done by a home master with his own hands.
Article
Experienced builders and suburban residents are well aware that "extra" water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washing out of the base, flooding of beds, waterlogging of the territory, etc. As a result, spring, autumn and even summer summer cottage you can't walk without rubber boots.
In this article, we'll look at:
- How to arrange water drainage on the site.
- How to make a budget with your own hands storm sewer.
- Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.
What kind of water interferes with the life of the developer and the suburban homeowner
About the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems, you can write a separate book. Therefore, we will leave a detailed enumeration of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence outside the scope of this article, and concentrate on practice. But without the minimum theoretical knowledge, to take up the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewers is to throw money away.
The point is that even improperly made drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped with geotextile, which was placed in clay, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. And the money for the arrangement of drainage has already been spent and, most importantly, the construction of the drainage is associated with a large amount of excavation work with the involvement of equipment.
Therefore, simply digging and shifting a drainage pipe 3-5 years after its laying is difficult and expensive. The site is already inhabited, done landscape design, a blind area was equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. were installed.
We'll have to puzzle over how to redo the drainage so as not to turn the entire site around.
From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological survey data(which will help to find a water-resistant layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of the house or swamping of the site.
Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with a period of snowmelt and an abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:
- capillary water.
- Ground water.
- Verkhovodka.
Moreover, surface water, if it is not diverted in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground, turns into underground water.
The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.
Conclusion: surface runoff must be diverted by storm (rain) sewage, rather than trying to do surface drainage!
Storm sewage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, leading water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief in the backyard. This will avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.
The main mistakes that are made when independent device drainage:
- Non-observance of the correct slope of the laid drainage pipes. If we take the average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.
- Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on the "wrong" ground. To avoid siltation, a pipe in geotextile is used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.
- The use of cheaper limestone rubble instead of granite, which is washed away with water over time.
- Savings on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as the transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m / day (with a single pressure gradient).
Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm sewer
The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm sewers on the site is to lay special trays.
Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price of them "bites". This makes our portal users look for more cheap options arrangement of storm sewers and drainage systems from the site.
Denis1235 Member of FORUMHOUSE
I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain meltwater that comes from a neighbor. Water must be diverted to a ditch. I thought about how to make a water outlet. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they will leave “extra” gratings, and I don’t need special aesthetics for storm water. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and cut them along with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.
Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted by the need to saw asbestos-cement pipes on their own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.
Portal users responded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.
Hooked on the idea of an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to get involved with cutting pipes on their own, Denis1235 I found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately be sawn into pieces 2 m long (so that a 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be brought to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme for laying trays.
The result is the following pie:
- Soil base in the form of a bed.
- A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
- Concrete about 7 cm.
- Tray from asbestos-cement pipe.
When arranging such a storm, do not forget to lay metal mesh(for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.
Denis1235
As a result, I made a budget shower at the dacha. It took: 2 days to dig a trench, two more days to concrete and install the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.
Practice has shown that the track "overwintered" perfectly, did not crack and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the site dry. Also of interest is the option of rain (storm) sewage of the portal user with the nickname yuri_by.
yury_by Member of FORUMHOUSE
Because the crisis does not think to end, then I thought about how to arrange a storm sewer to remove rainwater from the house. I want to solve the problem, and save money, and do everything efficiently.
After thinking, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times cheaper than "red" sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yuri_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe could break in winter if water gets between the two layers.
Eventually yuri_by I decided to take a budget "gray" pipe, which is used in the arrangement of internal sewage. Although he had fears that the pipes, which do not have such rigidity as the "red ones", will break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.
yuri_by
If you step on the "gray" pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. Only the lawn is laid and there are pedestrian loads. Having laid the pipe in a trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they keep their shape, and the storm drain works.
The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photos.
Digging a hole to collect water.
Level the base.
We install a concrete ring.
The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.
We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.
Paint the manhole cover.
We make a tie-in into the well with a drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, maintaining a slope of the track of 1 cm per 1 linear meter.
We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids between the walls of the trench and the pipe.
To prevent the pipe from floating up, it can be pressed with a brick or board.
We put the cover, mount the hatch and fill everything with soil.
This completes the production of the budget shower.
Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland
Not everyone gets the “right” sites. In SNT or in new cuts, the land can be very swampy, or the developer has a peat bog. Build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not an easy one summer cottage- both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - to sell / exchange the site or to drain and bring the site in order.
In order not to engage in various costly alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options drainage and drainage of the territory on the basis of automobile tires. This option allows you to save the family budget.
Yuri Podymakhin FORUMHOUSE Member
Peat soil is characterized by a high level of groundwater. In my area, the water is almost flush with the surface, and after the rain does not go into the ground. To divert the top water, it must be thrown out of the site. I did not spend money on the purchase special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.
The system is mounted as follows - a ditch is dug, tires are laid in it, tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth does not fall inside from above. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with "unnecessary" pieces of slate in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the "cover" pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.
But there are also more “heavy” places where much more needs to be done.
Seryoga567 Member of FORUMHOUSE
I have a plot in SNT, with total area 8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The GWL is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the country house stands for a long time, the site actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the very heat in summer. No one wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone swims. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with the neighbors. It is necessary to raise your site and find a way to put all the "unnecessary" water from the site.
Groundwater drainage is a lowering of the groundwater level using various systems: trenches, canals, wells, pumps and other devices. Today, for this, a pipe system is used in suburban areas, as the most effective in terms of long-term operation and ease of installation work. for the removal of groundwater - these are several varieties that manufacturers offer today. All of them differ from each other only in the material from which they are made.
Read in the article
Materials for the manufacture of pipes
The main material for the production of drainage pipes today is. More recently, when polymers were not so in demand in industrial scale, drainage pipes were made of clay and asbestos. In the first case, these were ceramic products, in the second, they were based on an asbestos-cement mixture.
They are produced in accordance with GOST 8411-74, which provides for the production of three types of tubular products that differ from each other in external shape: round, hexagonal and octagonal. The inner section is round.
Range of dimensional indicators.
Manufacturers offer perforated or non-perforated ceramic pipes. The connection is made using special couplings with a smooth inner surface.
Attention! Ceramic drainage pipes differ from the same sewer pipes by the absence of glazed coating on the surface.
Use ceramic pipes only in the reclamation system. In private housing construction, they are not used due to the difficulties associated with installation.
Asbestos cement (chrysotile cement)
They are made according to GOST 1839-80. The production of these pipes is based on asbestos fiber, which is poured cement mortar. The fibers act as a reinforcing frame, giving the product shape and strength.
Today, manufacturers offer two types of asbestos-cement pipes: pressure and non-pressure. The latter are used in dewatering.
Dimensional indicators:
The connections of the drainage pipes to each other are couplings or others in which rubber cuffs are installed to make the joint tight. The service life is 50 years, and this indicator is inferior to plastic products. Although it should be noted that asbestos-cement pipes are cheaper.
Plastic
Under the name of plastic perforated pipes for drainage, one should understand all products made from all types of polymer compounds. And this is polyvinyl chloride, and low and high pressure polyethylene.
All of them are divided not only by the source material, but also by some technical and technological aspects. In terms of strength and stiffness for:
- flexible, come in bays up to 50 m long;
- rigid, with a length of 6 or 12 m.
By the number of layers: one or two layers. By configuration: with or without a filter coating. Shape: smooth or corrugated.
PVC pipes
It should be noted right away that PVC pipes do not belong to the category of plastic products. Therefore, they are produced with a certain length - 6 m. They are connected to each other in a socket way, this applies to the junction of pipes between themselves and with fittings.
Specifications.
It should be noted that there are several PVC pipe stiffness classes from SN2 to SN16. This indicator determines to what depth products can be laid so that they can withstand ground pressure and other loads. For example:
- SN2 - can be laid to a depth of no more than 1 m.
- SN3 - up to 6 m.
- SN4 - up to 9 m.
As practice shows, in private housing construction class SN3 or 4 is usually used.
Polypropylene
This is plastic products flexible type one or two layers. The first outer layer is corrugation, the inner smooth pipe. This design allows the drainage system to withstand both dynamic and static loads.
Today, manufacturers offer pipes of this type in two diameters: 110 and 160 mm, with a wall thickness of 3.4 and 4.9 mm, respectively. This is a non-pressure design, the pipes withstand a maximum pressure of 0.5 atm from the inside, which is normal for drainage. Most importantly, it perfectly tolerates various temperature changes. It does not crack or break at both low and high temperatures. This is very important point, if the level of soil freezing is lower than the level of groundwater flow.
Polyethylene
It should be noted that a polyethylene pipe for groundwater drainage - best option in the system of dewatering suburban areas. First, it is a flexible design. Secondly, its length is 50 m, so the pipes come in bays. This allows you to lay the drainage system without joints.
Manufacturers today offer pipes with diameters: 63-630 mm. The entire range is divided into three main groups:
- Without perforation and filtration layer.
- Perforated without filter.
- With perforation and filter element.
In private housing construction, drains with a diameter of 110, 160 and 200 mm are mainly used. Consider their characteristics.
| Characteristic | 110 mm | 160 mm | 200 mm |
| Conditional passage, mm | 91 | 139 | 176 |
| Wall thickness class SN4, mm | 0,4 | 0,4 | 0,5 |
| Corrugation height, mm | 8,7 | 10 | 13 |
| Weight 1 m, kg | 0,79 | 1,27 | 2,1 |
Attention! Two-layer corrugated pipes are made of two types of polyethylene: the outer corrugated layer is low-pressure polyethylene (HDPE), the inner smooth one is LDPE (high pressure).
Drainage pipe perforation
Groundwater drainage with the help of a drainage system is the gravity flow of water through pipes, into which they penetrate through holes. It is for this purpose that perforation is made in drains. You can do it yourself using drilling, or you can purchase ready-made perforated products, which is much easier in terms of future installation.
At the same time, it is necessary to understand that the perforation itself is a certain arrangement of holes of a certain area. According to the location of the holes, drainage pipes are divided into four groups:
- Perforated 360°. It is a versatile material commonly used in areas with high water tables. There are holes with a step around the circumference equal to 60 °.
- Perforated 240°. Here one requirement is to lay with the non-perforated side down.
- Perforated 180°. Such pipes are called "halves". They are usually used to drain storm water.
- Perforated 120°. This is a highly specialized variety, so it is not used in suburban areas.
filter layer
Typically, the drainage system is built in the filter layer, which consists of two layers different materials: and rubble. First forms external protection, the second internal. They are arranged like this - first a geotextile is laid in a trench, a layer of crushed stone 15 cm thick is poured into it, a pipe is laid on it, then another crushed stone layer and all this is wrapped with the ends of the geotextile. It turns out a multilayer structure.
Today, manufacturers offer ready-made drains wrapped in filter material, which is the same geotextile or coconut winding. To determine which one is better, you need to understand that geotextile is a non-woven fabric made of polyester, that is, a polymer-based artificial material. Therefore, it has a long service life. At the same time, the polymer material easily tolerates various loads, it does not rot, does not corrode.
In this regard, the coconut winding is inferior in many positions. It has a short service life, it can only be used in sandy soils. At the same time, the throughput of coconut fiber is 700 microns, for geotextiles it is 450÷700 microns. That is, in many respects the second material is better. Therefore, if there is a choice, then it is better to give preference to geotextiles.
Selection of pipes by type of soil
An important aspect of the choice, on which the quality and efficiency of the drainage system will depend.
- If on construction site crushed stone or gravel soil, then single-layer perforated pipes without a filter layer can be used.
- If the soil is sandy, then a drainage system of products with a protective filter layer is used.
- If the soil is clayey, then you can use two options. The first is to lay a single-layer drain without filtration in a crushed stone layer, followed by wrapping with geotextiles. The second is to use a filtered system.
- If the soil on the site is loam. There is only one option here - pipes wrapped with geotextile, sprinkled with rubble on top.
Corrugated drainage pipes
Today, all manufacturers produce drainage corrugated pipes, such as the best option with high bearing capacity. Corrugation is stiffeners that provide the necessary strength. They were first produced for laying under highways and roads, where pipelines are subjected to high mechanical loads from cars passing through the installation site of the sewer system.
But over time, in view of the fact that the technology for the production of corrugated pipes is no different from smooth ones, these models were mainly produced. Now they are used in any drainage and regardless of whether they will withstand heavy loads or not. But products of large diameters are still used for pipelines that can be subjected to quite serious tests.
It should be noted that drainage corrugated pvc pipes with a diameter of 400 mm and above with perforation do not happen. Manufacturers offer products with a diameter of no more than 200 mm. All other models are sewer types. But if it becomes necessary to lay them in the drainage system, then you can make holes in them with a drill and a drill, thereby creating conditions for the penetration of water into the pipe interchange. That is, making a drainage pipe out of an ordinary sewer pipe with your own hands is not a problem.
In this case, for their installation, a traditional standard scheme settings:
- Geotextiles are laid in prepared trenches.
- A layer of crushed stone with a thickness of 15 cm is poured into it.
- The pipe is laid.
- Another top layer of crushed stone so that it completely covers the pipe line.
- Wrapping is carried out with geotextiles.
- Backfilling with soil.
Rules for organizing a drainage system for the removal of groundwater
In general, drainage systems are divided into two groups: for the removal of groundwater and for the removal of precipitation. The latter is called storm water. It is laid at a shallow depth, and its main task is to remove rainfall and melting snow from the site. Often storm water is made in the form open system, which is a trench covered with rubble.
As for drainage for groundwater, this is a pipe system laid below the GWL. For this, a laying pattern is determined, which can be ring or herringbone. The latter is one main highway, to which auxiliary branches are attached at an angle.
Attention! The dewatering system must be done around the foundation of the house. Therefore, it is laid before the start of laying the foundation structure.
If the drainage pipe is laid around a house that has already been built, then the following technology must be followed:
- It is dug in trenches with a length of no more than 20 m along.
- A pipe line is laid in it.
- All protective measures are being taken.
- The trench is backfilled with soil.
- The next 20 m are dug.
- And are held installation work on this area.
This technology allows not to dig trenches around the entire perimeter, so as not to weaken its bearing capacity.
Article
What diameter of the drainage pipe to choose for lowering groundwater?
There is a lot of information on the purpose of drainage on the Internet now, so I don’t really want to describe the same thing several times. By and large, everyone decides on their own - he needs drainage in order to save the foundation, and the house as a whole, from dampness, cracks, or apply the saying "enough for our lifetime."
I have more than 20 years of experience in lowering groundwater and sewerage, so I don’t want to convince, but just give examples and some comparisons.
What all the same to choose a drainage pipe - with a diameter of 63mm., Or 110mm.
Let's turn to the school curriculum and find a table that shows the parameters of water consumption with a conditional diameter of the pipe passage equal to 63mm.
It turns out that a drainage pipe with a diameter of 63 mm., Is able to skip from 12 to 15m3 water in hour. , per day, respectively, at least 288m3., Water.
If we take into account that not a single ground vein gives such a pressure of the flow underground at such a speed, we conclude that it is quite enough to lower the groundwater along the foundation to use a drainage pipe with a conditional passage of 63 mm.
From my own experience, I can say that after the installation of the drainage system is completed, the largest water pressure is 1/3 of the diameter of the laid drainage pipe.