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Do-it-yourself siding installation: similar instructions and a step-by-step master class from siding experts (130 photos). Step-by-step instructions for installing all the elements of siding with your own hands Punch for siding with your own hands

At 4.6.2014, 8:14

I have been installing siding for several years, but have never had a problem making holes in the lock of a siding strip. If, of course, you bother with the effect of compression (stretching) of the strip, then you can simply drill a hole larger in diameter than self-tapping screws with a pressure washer, namely > 4.2 mm in 5-10 cm.

It's strange to hear that from a siding installer. Thermal expansion-compression is a very critical parameter for siding - it MUST move in the fastener in the longitudinal direction, otherwise it will "go in waves".

It's strange to hear that from a siding installer. Thermal expansion-compression is a very critical parameter for siding - it MUST move in the fastener in the longitudinal direction, otherwise it will "go in waves".


So no one argues about expansion (compression), it's just strange that you need to make holes yourself, usually this is done at the factory, and not at home. This is the same if you need an ebb on the window and you can bend it with a hammer on a workbench, and not on a bending machine, the result of handicraft is obvious.

it seems to me that you didn’t read the instructions for siding holes with holes, there is also a special punch, and this one is needed to make notches in order to snap into the finish line where it cuts off, but there are no standard notches, they need to be done.

it seems to me that you didn’t read the instructions for siding holes with holes, there is also a special punch, and this one is needed to make notches in order to snap into the finish line where it cuts off, but there are no standard notches, they need to be done.


That's right, the finishing strip is cut off, but usually it is adjacent to the hemming or lining, in this case it is necessary to install an internal corner or j-trim, and so that it does not fall down, pour liquid plastic or glue into the lower lock of the last strip and then after winter it won't fall. There is another option with a finishing (finishing) strip for siding, not to be confused with a finishing strip for wind or near-window strips, insert a trimmed strip into it and that's it, but not all brands of siding have it.

On the topic, from the profile site:

I make hooks with an ordinary weaving nail - you put the nail with the side of the cap on the siding, which lies on a piece of wood and bend the ledge with a light blow of a hammer, it is advisable to do this at a temperature of 20 degrees, because if the temperature is lower, then the siding is not so plastic.

why can’t a grinder make 3-4 cm cuts along a self-tapping screw, and then they hide in the finish bar


What are you, you can't!!! The wave will go, twist and shrink.
Buy normal material, and do not hammer your brain unnecessary information.
Believe me, nothing comes in waves.

I make hooks with an ordinary weaving nail - you put the nail with the side of the cap on the siding, which lies on a piece of wood and bend the ledge with a light blow of a hammer, it is advisable to do this at a temperature of 20 degrees, because if the temperature is lower, then the siding is not so plastic.


maybe one of the specialists will tell you how to make pediments ... the couple does not pull me to make forests ..

just got to the top will have to try ..
maybe one of the specialists will tell you how to make pediments ... the couple does not pull me to make forests ..


You will have to make scaffolding or use prefabricated scaffolding, rent is about 1000 rubles / week in the city. They are needed for high-quality cladding, the wall can still be sheathed, like the first floor from the stairs, but with windows on the second floor, and especially with filing, it is more difficult to install wind or end planks even with two people, and even more so without scaffolding.

You will have to make scaffolding or use prefabricated scaffolding, rent is about 1000 rubles / week in the city. They are needed for high-quality cladding, the wall can still be sheathed, like the first floor from the stairs, but with windows on the second floor, and especially with filing, it is more difficult to install wind or end planks even with two people, and even more so without scaffolding.


I probably won’t do the filing yet, I haven’t figured out how to do it ...

according to the residual footage there remains 3-4m2, if at your rates 500r m2 goes for a couple of thousand, will you take it?

I get up to half of the pediment ... but there is no way higher ... http://forum.wec.ru/index.php?s=&showt...t&p=3896101

gable base 3m side by 2.50

I probably won’t do the filing yet, I haven’t figured out how to do it ...


I would be happy to help, but I have orders until the beginning of September, and then according to calculations, or maybe because of the weather, the second job will turn out to be very busy, but I can tell you without any problems. I would make this order for 3500 rubles (4 m2 x 500 rubles and filing 5mp x 300 rubles), the filing must be created artificial from profiles, this is not 100% visible in three photos, but I think you just have boards sticking out from under the roof after installation of corrugated board. Everything is fast and convenient with one cell of scaffolding, usually its height is 1.2 m. In the evening I will write in detail how to mount everything in words ...

Everything is fast and convenient with one scaffolding cell, usually its height is 1.2 m.


yesterday I made the main scaffolding 1.8m and in order to get 5 more pallets to the ridge ... I seem to get it

the filing must be created artificially from profiles, this is not 100% visible in three photos, but I think you just have boards sticking out from under the roof after installing the corrugated board.


yes, that's right, and not everyone sticks out the same way, I still think it will let it go on top osb sheet so that everything is smooth and further stir up the frame on it and hem it, but I can’t understand what materials I still need ...
I want to do something like this

One of the most popular ways to finish the facade is the installation of siding panels. They allow you to give an individual look due to the wide range of colors, shapes and materials from which they are made.

The available siding installation technology allows you to assemble it yourself as a designer. The variety is great, but we will talk about how to install vinyl siding, the principles of working with this material and the installation steps.

But first, let's talk about accessories. Those details with which you can finish the facade of your house.

Important! All components must be made from the same material. with the same coefficient of thermal expansion. To prevent deformation of the structure.

Description of accessories

  • starting profile - a load-bearing element, the first siding panel is attached to it;
  • the finishing bar is the last in a row, hides the top edge of the last panel;
  • corner elements - with their help, corners are formed, the profiles have grooves in which the siding panel is placed;
  • platbands for doors and windows - perform a decorative function, making out door and window openings;
  • window and door profiles - if the window or door is not flush with the wall, but in a recess, then these profiles will help close the slopes when finishing;
  • J-profile is needed for fastening panels, sometimes used instead of corner profiles;
  • J-chamfer is necessary to decorate the edge of the roof, otherwise it is called - a wind board;
  • ebbs are designed to drain water from the walls;
  • ceiling soffits are perforated and solid, close from below, the overhanging part of the roof, perforated provide ventilation between the siding and the wall;
  • moldings connect panels located in different planes;
  • H-profile is required for joining panels.


Mounting principles

Vinyl is a material that tends to change its shape and size with changes in temperature factors. This must be taken into account during installation. Therefore, when assembled, the structure of siding panels should not be tightly attached to the frame, parts and elements should be able to move easily relative to other components and parts.

The siding panels have technological holes for fasteners, which have an oblong shape. This is no coincidence, the self-tapping screw must be screwed in the center of this hole (with the exception of the upper fasteners of vertical elements), so as not to interfere with the change in the shape of the material.

Do not screw in the self-tapping screw tightly, leave a gap of 1 mm under its head. You can not screw the panel through the vinyl, if necessary, make a hole with a cutter. The diameter of the screw must be smaller than the resulting hole.

Leave gaps of 6 mm between the end of the siding panel and the profiles (J or H), in case of expansion. If the installation takes place at a low temperature (-5 and below), increase the gaps to 9 mm. The gaps at the vertical panels, at the top - 3-4 mm, at the bottom - 6-8 mm.

Overlaps and joints do not need to be treated with sealant.

As guides for the battens, a metal profile or wooden beam. To make the facade last longer, it is preferable to mount a metal frame. But, if you still decide to use wooden ones, make sure they are well dried. Vertical guides are mounted at a distance of 40 cm.

When installing start profiles, the gap between them should be 12 mm. When joining overlapping siding panels, trim its fasteners so that there is 12 mm between them.

When installing the panel, do not overdo it, apply just enough effort so that the siding lock snaps into place with the lower profile, do not overtighten or deform the structure.

Wall preparation

Dismantle everything that can interfere with the installation of siding: water drains, shutters, lighting fixtures, etc. Align the walls, close the cracks and cracks. Cracks in the walls can be repaired with a plaster solution, and metal parts can be treated with anti-corrosion compounds. If the house is wooden, treat it with a flame retardant and an antiseptic.

Installing guides

Installation of the frame begins with the installation of corner rails. They are attached to the wall using suspensions controlling the verticality with a building level. A cord is stretched between them and all guides are installed in the same plane.

Attention! If it is supposed to insulate the house, then you need to calculate the distance from the wall of the building to the frame, it must be greater than the thickness of the insulation in order to provide a ventilated space. The second option is to first install a layer of insulation, and then mount the siding frame.

Installation of the start profile

Via building level find the lowest point on the frame, screw a self-tapping screw 5 cm above it. At the opposite end of the wall, also screw in a self-tapping screw (at the same level) and pull the rope between them. Repeat the same operation around the entire perimeter. The line that the rope forms will be the boundary of the starting profile.


Attach the corner profile. On the rails of the crate, mark the border of the angular profile.


Install the first profile, maintaining a distance from the corner profile of 6 mm, the gap between the starting strips is 12 mm.


It is possible not to make a gap of 6 mm, but in this case it is necessary to cut the fastenings of the corner profile.


Important! When mounting the starting profile, constantly monitor its horizontal position. Otherwise, the quality of the final result will be in question.

Installing the outer corner profile

Before installing the corner element, mark on the wall the place where the spotlights adjoin it, or install the spotlights. When installing the corner profile, make sure that the gap between it and the soffit is 3 mm, fix it with upper self-tapping screws on both walls. The bottom edge should be 6mm below the starting bar.

After making sure that the profile is vertical, fasten the profile along the entire length. If the length of one corner element is not enough, you need to install the second one with an overlap of 25 mm, cutting it so that the distance between the mounting sites is 9 mm.

You can do without the outer corner profile, and use two J-profiles. In this case, we win in time, but lose in waterproofing.

Installation of the internal corner profile

Similar to the outer profile, make sure that there is a gap (3 mm) between the top edge and the soffit, and the bottom one is 6 mm below the starting profile. If necessary, the inner element is also possible to "build up".

The inner corner element can be replaced with one or two J-profiles.

Installing door and window frames

For this operation, we use window and door platbands. Planks are installed along the perimeter of window and doorways.

If the window and doors are "recessed" into the wall, we use platbands with a profile that covers the slopes.

Installing the Launchpad

Insert the first panel into the start profile. Insert the ends into the grooves of the corner elements. Make sure there are end gaps. We begin to fix the panel from the middle, moving to the edges. Don't forget about the gap under the screw head.

If the panel is shorter than the length of the wall, use a connecting strip - H-profile for extension.

You can do without the bar, in this case we mount the siding with an overlap.


How to multiply all the practical characteristics of the house and at the same time make the house look more solid and attractive? Ordinary siding will help achieve such goals. About all types of this cladding of the facade of the building and how to properly install the siding with your own hands step-by-step instruction for dummies will tell in all details.

Necessary tools and materials

Any construction and repair process begins with preparation necessary tool and building materials. What does siding installation require?

Regardless of the type of siding, the master will definitely need power tools such as a portable circular saw and a screwdriver.

From the usual repair improvised tools will come in handy:

  1. Level;
  2. Roulette;
  3. A hammer;
  4. Hacksaw for metal;
  5. Knife-cutter;
  6. Awl;
  7. Screwdriver;
  8. Pliers.

Siding fastening involves active work on wood or metal, which means it is desirable to protect eyes and hands from small particles. To do this, builders are advised to wear safety glasses and construction gloves.

Which siding is better metal or vinyl

Depending on the material from which the elements for house cladding are made, there are several of the most popular types of siding: wood (blockhouse), metal and vinyl. What is the best siding?

We will analyze each type from the point of view of the customer (i.e., in terms of external indicators and cost) and from the position of the master installer (i.e., what needs to be done to pre-prepare the panels, how easy it is to install the siding, how to calculate the siding by cost and consumables etc.).

Vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride, almost no preparatory work Vinyl siding is not required. This material will be mounted on the wall of the house without much effort, since all panels are made according to a clear geometry.

Of the positive performance characteristics, it is worth pointing out:

  1. environmental safety;
  2. High fire safety;
  3. Polymer siding almost completely eliminates the risk of rotting and damage by fungal diseases;
  4. Tolerance to temperature fluctuations (from -50 to +50 C).

The disadvantages of vinyl siding include:

  1. Low noise and heat insulation;
  2. The inability to create bright contrasting colors;
  3. It will not be possible to restore the color worn from time to time;
  4. After installation, the vinyl surface requires constant processing and careful maintenance;
  5. The manufacturer gives a warranty period for trouble-free operation of only 50 years and only on condition correct installation designs.

Metal siding is galvanized steel panels with an additional coating with various colorants.

What has:

  1. Excellent resistance to fire, fungal attack;
  2. Not necessary special care behind the siding (it is enough to periodically wash with water);
  3. Metal panels are the most convenient for implementing a wide variety of design ideas: more than 100 color options + decorative coatings;
  4. Before installation, no special preparation of the initial surface is carried out;
  5. Mounting is easy at any temperature environment;
  6. There is no need to adjust the parts with a hacksaw.

The disadvantages for buyers include:

  1. The complete absence of sound and heat insulation, which means that the installation of siding with insulation will be necessary;
  2. Poor resistance to mechanical damage;
  3. The service life is up to 50 years, also with competently carried out installation.

Installation features of block house siding are even more complex:

  • Here, additional pretreatment of wood with an antiseptic solution and various varnish-coloring substances is necessary;

  • Cleaning of the most basic surface of the building is required;

  • Horizontal panels should be fixed to the surface in a special way;

  • It is necessary to constantly treat the surface of the siding after installation;

  • Due to the considerable weight of the tree, the structure makes the walls of the house heavier;
  • Extremely high fire hazard;
  • The threat of rotting and infection with fungal diseases;
  • Possibilities of color presentation of siding: only shades of wood, i.e. siding brown with shades of halftone.

Considering all the above points, experts conclude that the duration of using siding under a log is 100% dependent on pre- and post-treatment/care.

But among the most valuable characteristics indicate high heat and sound insulation properties, resistance to mechanical and other types of damage, environmentally friendly and healthy material.

After analyzing the properties of each of the presented types, you can fairly determine which siding will look better on the facade of the house.

Lathing installation work

Siding sheathing always begins with the installation of the siding sheathing. What is siding and what is it for? The crate for siding is a frame made of metal or wooden (section 20-40 mm) guides, on which a siding fence is attached.

  • Frame horizontal and vertical slats under the crate can be made of galvanized, aluminum profile, CD-profile for drywall or other material: it is important that the contact of the building material on the walls of the house with the slats of the crate does not provoke destructive reactions (corrosion, decay, etc.).
  • Why you need a crate for siding is not difficult to understand. Firstly, this design allows you to "correct" the curvature of the walls of the house, hide small ledges, surface irregularities. Secondly, it greatly increases the operational durability of the material due to the created ventilation.
  • If the siding panels must be laid vertically, then the crate is made with horizontal guides. And vice versa: the installation of metal siding with horizontal panels requires a vertical crate.
  • With the help of the level, horizontal and vertical markings are carried out. From the drawn guides, after 30-40 mm, frame strips are attached to dowels (for walls made of bricks, shells) or to self-tapping screws (for wooden surfaces). Under drains, lamps and other practical elements, additional laths of the crate are installed.

Thermal and moisture insulation

Installation of vinyl siding is not complete without additional measures for thermal insulation and moisture insulation. On the mounted crate with an overlap of 10 cm, a thermal insulator is laid in slabs (or in roll form). The insulation is supplemented by a hydrobarrier. On top of the double layer of insulation + waterproofing, another crate is installed (parallel to the slats of the first crate), on which external siding will be attached under a log, from vinyl, metal or other material.

It is imperative to leave space between the hydro / thermal insulation cushion in the crate and the wall of the house. This air gap will be an effective help in the implementation of the functions of thermal and moisture insulation of the house, which will greatly increase the performance.

Installation of guide elements

The correct installation of the cladding of the facade of the house always begins with the fastening of the first plank. This is a special siding strip, which will subsequently be almost completely hidden by other siding elements. But, the final result completely depends on how accurately this bar is attached: a beautiful siding will turn out or not at all.

What needs to be done? From the bottom of the wall on which it is planned to install vinyl siding, a distance equal to the thickness of the siding is measured (this is the width of one siding element). A nail is driven from one edge of the wall to a point according to the measured distance, and with the help of a level, a place is determined for another nail on the opposite edge of the wall.

Two such landmarks are connected by a line - this is the main guide for mounting deck siding. After several attached strips of siding along the frame crate, it is worth checking again with a level the clarity of the guide in order to eliminate errors.

Installation of external corner profiles

Exterior decoration of the house necessarily includes work on the plinth, i.e. protruding part of the foundation. For installation basement siding a material of a more expressive format and often a contrasting color is chosen.

For example, under gray siding for the facade of the walls, beige siding for the basement will look quite impressive. Corner elements, which must be used for the installation of basement siding, are also used to finish the corners of windows and doors.

As outside corners profiles, manufacturers have developed several different shapes:

  1. J-profile is used to fix end and corner panels (in window openings, doors, corner joints), as well as a finishing bar. Under the starting bar, this type of profile is not advised to be used, because due to the shape (in the form of the Latin letter J), water can accumulate in the profile.
  2. The H-profile is designed to fasten the plates together on a flat section of the walls.
  3. F-profile close the slopes.

Between any of the protruding wall elements and the profile, it is necessary to leave a gap of 6 mm - this is taking into account the maximum expansion of the profile material when the temperature changes. It is this installation scheme that is performed for contact with the base: there is a 6 mm indent between it and the profile.

Installation of internal corner profiles


Mounting order internal corners th profiles are practically no different from the installation of external corners:

  1. Use J-profile;
  2. A space of up to 3 mm is left between the profile and the siding panel.

If the wall of the house is more than 3 m, then, when installing the alto siding on the profile, the profiles should be spliced.

There is such a pattern: vinyl or other siding changes dimensions with an increase / decrease in air temperature, but you can determine in advance the direction of linear expansion of the material. For this, self-tapping screws are used.

If you screw a self-tapping screw into the extreme oval hole vertical bar not in the center, but along the very top edge, then the material will not deform upwards, but only to the sides and down.

Installation of the first panel

As mentioned above, the first panel and the first row is the index for all subsequent rows. It must be attached to the starting bar. From this first panel, all of the following elements will rise to the top of the wall.

Particular attention and diligence, of course, should be given to the starting bar. How to fix the starting bar correctly is already described above. After the starter bar is fixed, you can proceed to install the first siding panel.

Practitioner builders have identified a number of tricks, thanks to which it is possible to achieve high quality and wear resistance of the installation of siding panels:

  1. Strips of siding material have a number of oval holes along the outer strip, which are intended for fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws). These fasteners should only be installed in the center of the oval, as this avoids damage to the panels when their width and length increase with temperature changes.
  2. Advice on the tightness of the fit of the self-tapping screws to the surface of the panel has a similar justification: the width between these elements should be such that a coin can freely enter.
  3. At the corners, the fastening of the slats is not carried out end-to-end, since there are their own elements for these structural parts of the house (corner slats).

Installing vinyl siding on a wall at home is easy if you carefully follow the recommendations of professionals and have all the necessary materials / tools at hand.

In addition to siding plates, it is necessary to purchase internal and external corners, starting and finishing rails, a connecting profile, and trim. These design elements will help you complete quality installation siding finishes in all difficult places of the house (corners, near-window frames, doorways, under the roof, etc.).

From the lower level of the house from the extreme left corner, we begin to build siding:

  • The starting strip is attached;

  • The first siding panel is attached to the starting strip with a lower lock;

  • The higher rows are fixed with the lock of the lower row;

  • The finishing bar completes the design.

Roof installation

The scheme of work is no different from the above described:

  1. Installation of the crate;
  2. Installation of the starting rail at a distance of up to 15 cm from the ends of the walls;
  3. The first siding panel is laid into this starting rail;
  4. Siding parts are overlapped, 2 cm each. The distance between the fastening strips must be at least 0.5 cm.

Mounting the pediment

The pediment of the house is one of the most striking details of the construction; its appearance is striking from afar. Naturally, the design of all installation siding work should be completed with a similar finish of the gable.

It is convenient that, regardless of the type of siding chosen, the dimensions of the panels can be changed: the width is usually not adjusted, but the length and shape of the edge of the panel can be easily cut with an ordinary carpenter's knife. The accuracy of the whole structure will be ensured by the types of profiles described above.

  1. The crate must be done for the pediment. It consists of the same guides as for the wall of the house.
  2. The surface of the gable can be covered vertically or horizontally with siding panels. You can use a combined method - the transition from one direction of installation to another is possible using an edging profile.
  3. Work is carried out from the bottom up and ends with a finishing bar. The top panel must be cut at the angle of the roof slope. To do this, it is enough to make a template from a small piece of the panel.

How to calculate gable siding? There is a simple installation method: from the center of the gable. An H-profile should be installed on the central vertical axis, starting strips should be inserted into it, and panels should already be mounted on them in both directions.

Panel installation

Externally, corrugated siding can be placed both vertically and horizontally on a wall or on another surface. The first siding panel is inserted into the fixed starting bar along the lock. A click should be heard - it means that the bar is installed correctly.

Further rows of panels are raised up, fastened with self-tapping screws to the crate, taking into account the above construction technology, and the finish bar completes the structure, behind which the edge panel is inserted, bending it slightly.

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation rules

Anyone can do all the work on finishing the facade of the house with siding panels. The cost of work during self-assembly, of course, is several times lower than payment to hired craftsmen. If all the recommendations are followed thoroughly and clearly, then there will be no mistakes, and the appearance of your home will allow you to experience a sense of pride and joy in full.

  • When installing siding with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions repeatedly focus on this rule: when fixing the siding panel to the wall with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to leave a distance of 1-2 mm between the screw head and the wall.
  • This is a must, because when the temperature changes, the vinyl material of the dock siding panels tends to expand, and when fixed “tightly” to the wall, the panels can simply burst or be significantly deformed.
  • It is for this reason that siding work in Russia should be performed only in the summer (i.e., in the warm season). After all, the material of polyvinyl chloride, from which vinyl siding panels are made, has sufficient linear expansion.

Particular attention should be paid to the installation instructions, since even slight deviations from the rules may result in sagging of panels of this type.

Rules for installing metal siding

  • Metal siding panels are made of galvanized iron, and this implies a significant weight of the material. This means that the crate under them should be more serious than for vinyl, which will naturally affect the cost of the work of the craftsmen and the cost of building materials for the crate.
  • Metal siding m2 at the prices of manufacturers in the Russian Federation is almost twice as expensive as vinyl siding.
  • For metal siding, post-installation work is also important, since the material requires attention to the condition of the paint. This means that the cost of work after installation is also considerable.

Conclusion: it is impossible to clearly determine the good and bad type of siding finish on the facade of the house, because. it depends on individual aspects: the condition of the house, the taste preferences of the owner, the size of his wallet, etc. Only one thing is true: dress your house in gorgeous dress from Siding Design - it is profitable, durable and beautiful!

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation

Siding is a popular material for facade cladding. A practical homeowner chooses this type of finish external walls Houses. Siding has a lot of undeniable advantages. Among them, the presentable appearance of the panels and the ease of their installation.

The market offers two types of siding: vinyl and metal. There are no fundamental differences in the installation of these materials. But there is a significant difference in characteristics.

Vinyl significantly more affected by ambient temperature. When heated, it expands; when cooled, it contracts. This feature is taken into account in the panel production technology: they are designed in such a way that during installation, the damping gap necessary to compensate for the expansion and contraction of the lamellas remains.

Vinyl siding has a significantly lower frost resistance than metal siding. Therefore, long-term exposure low temperatures becomes brittle. This feature of vinyl must be considered by those homeowners who live in regions with a harsh climate. When hitting a fragile frozen vinyl lamella, cracks will certainly appear on it.

Unlike metal, plastic panels are not fire resistant. But they can be used as additional insulation of the facade.

AT last years a modernized version of vinyl siding has appeared, which is more resistant to ultraviolet radiation (does not lose its color saturation from sunlight) and has a lower coefficient of thermal expansion. It is a siding "under the rounded log". It looks more attractive than the flat panels that are sheathed in kiosks and industrial buildings. Therefore, it is able to make the facade of a residential building cozy and spectacular.

Differs in wide colors, but much less often used for facing private houses.

There are several reasons for this:

  • it has the property of heating up in the cold, thereby reducing the thermal protection of the walls;
  • during rain, quite loud sounds characteristic of metal appear.

In order for the cladding of a wooden house with vinyl or metal siding to be of the highest quality, along with the panels, additional elements are purchased that are required for finishing window and door openings, gables, slopes. These are elements such as:

  • start and finish line;
  • spotlights;
  • J and H profile;
  • external and internal corners.

For sheathing a wooden house with siding, it makes no sense to purchase a complete set of additional elements. In choosing their type and quantity, they are guided by architectural and design features building. But start and finish bars are always required, no matter what. A set of panels begins with the installation of the starting bar and is completed with the installation of the finishing one.

Siding prices

The appearance of the cladding of the house depends on how well the crate is built. A frame assembled in accordance with all the rules is able to hide any flaws and irregularities in the walls and gables of the building. The crate is the base to which the canvases of the finishing material are attached.

When installing metal and vinyl lamellas, two types of frames are used:

  • from wooden bars;
  • from a metal profile.

Any one of them is suitable for mounting. facing material on wooden walls. A properly installed frame allows you to lay any of the modern heat insulators on the walls. The crate also provides the ventilation gap required to eliminate excess moisture.

Installation of the frame is not needed if the walls of the wooden house are perfectly even. On such a surface, you can safely mount siding without using the structure of additional supports.

Prices for mineral wool

Rules for mounting a metal frame

For the device of this type of crate, a metal profile is required, which is used for the installation of plasterboard walls, ceilings and partitions. These are PN 28x27 and PP 60x27. These planks will be attached to the wall of the house with the help of special suspensions, which the craftsmen call "pawns".

If it is necessary to mount a two-tier metal frame, assuming a protrusion under the roof or in the upper part of the wall, special “crab” fasteners are used to connect the metal strips. They are designed for strong docking between vertical and horizontal strips. As fasteners, self-tapping screws SMM 3.5x51 are used, which experts call "seeds".

Stages of installation of a metal crate

Step 1: drawing up a scheme of the crate

At this stage of work, it is necessary to decide which step between the racks of the crate will be optimal. This distance depends on what material is chosen for wall insulation. If this mineral wool in rolls, then the step between the racks of the frame should be 3-4 cm less than the width of the canvas. This will allow you to lay the insulation in the openings between the racks of the crate so that there are no gaps between its canvases.

Step 2: Markup

Markings corresponding to the scheme are applied to the wall. Use a marker.

Step 3: Hanger Mounting

With the help of wood screws and a screwdriver, hangers are attached to wooden wall Houses. These metal strips are placed horizontally, aligning the marking point with the center of the wide slot in the middle of the suspension. At the initial stage of siding installation, the perforated "legs" are not bent, but left pressed against the wall.

Step 4: installing the corner posts of the batten

Corner posts consist of two planks of profile PP 60/27 connected at a right angle. They will serve as the basis for installing the external and internal corners of the siding. When installing the corner posts, it is important not to make a mistake, and set the corner exactly as needed: for external corners, the protrusion is outward, for the internal corners, the protrusion is inward.

Step 5: installation of intermediate vertical racks of the crate

It is important that all vertical supports of the frame are located in the same plane. If a thread is pulled between the corner posts, the installation of the intermediate posts will be easier and faster. The lower and upper ends of the profile PP 60/27 are inserted into the guides PN 28/27 and fixed with self-tapping screws. Thus, the frame acquires the required rigidity.

Step 7: Mounting the frame for windows and doors

The metal frame around the window and door openings should be a solid frame of the correct geometric shape, exactly following the contours of the opening. It should be noted that slopes and low tide should have a slight slope from the window installed in the house. Therefore, the frame is mounted in such a way that its vertical and horizontal strips are indented 1-2 cm from the window lines. The same requirements are set for doorways.

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Screwdrivers

Rules for mounting a wooden frame

Having figured out how to make a metal frame for siding, it is easy to mount a wooden crate. It is set according to the same rules. But other materials and tools will be required:

  • wood screws;
  • hacksaw;
  • bars with a section of 3x4, 4x4 or 4x5 cm.

Lumber is necessarily treated with an antiseptic solution that prevents premature destruction of wood. It is recommended to apply a double or triple layer of this composition. The bars should be well dried and even. A planer is used to eliminate flaws.

The device of a wooden crate for siding does not provide for the installation of guides. The ends of the vertical racks are interconnected by similar wooden bars.

Features of mounting the frame for sheathing the plinth with siding

Siding is suitable not only for facing walls and gables. It is also suitable for covering the foundation. Since the plinth is more often exposed to mechanical stress than walls and gables, it is recommended to mount a metal crate. It should be noted that each basement siding panel must be installed on 4 vertical posts. The distance between them must be the same.

Installation of siding on the crate

During the installation of the panels, their trimming will inevitably be required. Sawing is performed using a grinder and a circle for metal with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm. It is suitable for both metal and vinyl siding. For cutting panels and additional elements, you can use scissors for metal.

Step 1: Installing the Starter Bar

The quality of all further work will depend on how correctly the starting bar is set. Therefore, this process must be taken with all responsibility. The starting profile must be installed strictly horizontally along the entire length of the wall. In order to fulfill this condition, self-tapping screws are screwed in at the bottom of the corner posts of the crate so that the thread stretched between them is located strictly horizontally. It will serve as a guide when installing the starting profile.

It is important that when building up between the strips, there is a gap of 0.8-10 mm wide.

Video - Installing the starting bar

Video - How to insert siding into the homepage, installation using the example of Docke siding (Docke)

Step 2: installing the corner profile

The lower border of the profile should be 0.5-1 cm below the starting bar. When building up the corner profile, the side perforation is trimmed. The optimal overlap of the lower part on the upper one is 2.5 cm. There should be a gap of 8-9 mm between the perforations of the upper and lower corner profile.

If during work it turned out that the length of the corner profile is not enough to sheathe the corner, you should not rush to the store. You can use existing starter strips. They need to be connected to each other so that the desired angle is obtained: internal or external.

Step 3: decorating window openings

If the opening is in the same plane with the facade, two vertical and two horizontal near-window profiles are installed.

If window openings are recessed into the facade, installation of slopes and low tide will be required. It is important to correctly connect the near-window strips to each other so that water does not get inside the facing layer.

Step 4: Mounting the first panel

Siding panels are simply inserted into the H-profile with a gap of 5-6 mm

When fastening the siding and any of the additional elements, it is necessary to leave a gap of 1-2 mm, without screwing the self-tapping screw tightly into the frame. Otherwise, the skin will be deformed under the influence of compression-expansion forces.

The end face of the first panel is brought into the corner profile and the locking connection of the starting bar. After that, proceed to attach the siding to the crate. When building up the panel, cut off 4-5 cm of perforation.

Step 5: Panel Set

During the installation of the panels, the correct position of the panels must be regularly checked using a bubble level at least 80 cm long.

Step 6: Mounting the Finishing Plank

When you reach the top of the wall, you will find that there is not enough space to mount the entire panel. In this case, measure the distance from the locking of the last installed panel to the top of the wall. Then they take a new panel, apply the appropriate markings on it with a pencil and cut off the excess. Fasten the siding to the crate and install a finishing bar on top of it.

Under the window, everything is about the same - the topmost bar is cut to size and simply snaps onto the bottom lock of the siding

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Aluminum ladder

How to properly and economically install window adjoining

To form slopes, a plastic or metal L-shaped bar (L-profile) is used. Measure the length and width of the window block and cut the strips for the top, bottom and sides of the window.

In order to compensate for the difference between the thickness of the manufacturer's window strip and the width of the L-profile, two strips of the same length will be required for each side of the window. One will be inserted into the other, which will simultaneously strengthen the profile.

Take one bar and attach it to the top of the installed window unit. Use self-tapping screws SMM 3.5 / 51. Similarly, the L-profile is fixed around the entire perimeter of the window.

In order to form the protrusion necessary for installing the near-window strip, the same, similar length is inserted into the profile fixed on the window. But first apply super glue to it. It is important not to forget that the glued profile must be dry and clean. The L-profile is inserted towards the one fixed on the window so that the short shelf is connected to the long one.

At the lower corner points of the window towards the crate, it is necessary to strengthen similar double strips of such a length that it corresponds to the width of the slope required in this case. These double short slats must be on the previously installed metal trough.

Measure the desired length of the near-window strip and cut it with scissors for metal. On each side of the plank, you need to make a saw cut at an angle of 45 °, which will allow you to form a beautiful slope. Before attaching the strip, cut off the excess perforated abutment.

The near-window plank is inserted into the L-profile so that its rectangular perforated protrusion closely adjoins the adjacent rack of the crate. Perform fastening.

Self-tapping screws, with which the siding is attached, must be screwed strictly into the center of the factory holes. But the last top skin panel can be fastened directly through vinyl or metal.

The finished result - the pediment is sheathed, spotlights are installed

Video - Step-by-step installation of factory window connections

Video - How to cut a near-window profile

Video - Installation of overlapping siding on a wooden frame

Video - How the siding ends at the top

Installing siding is fairly easy. The material was developed with the aim not only to provide a beautiful and reliable sheathing, but also to make the installation process as easy as possible, as well as to ensure the correct joining of the material.

However, in practice there are always moments that the lamella manufacturer cannot take into account.

Difficulties during installation

It would seem that the developers of the material provided for everything so that the skin was reliable.

  • The slats are fastened to each other in a special way: such a connection is much more resistant to wind gusts, pressure and other mechanical stress.
  • At the same time, snapping also guarantees the correct installation: it will not be possible to fix the lamella at an angle or unevenly. It would seem, why in this case such a tool as a notch punch for siding.
  • For the design of corners, window and door openings, the joining of lamellas along the length, there are special prefabricated elements, whose dimensions and shape make it possible to easily and tightly fix horizontal elements into vertical ones. And finally, for a simple start and end of the installation, special parts have been developed - the start and finish bar.

All this functions perfectly, but only in cases where the dimensions of the facade are a multiple of the dimensions of the lamellas. And this rarely happens. Much more often, the finishing or near-window bar has to be cut with your own hands, since its width turns out to be excessive. And cut at the expense of the part where the mounting holes are located.

As a result, the builder receives an element of suitable length, but not adapted for snap-fitting, since the necessary notches are missing. To form them, you need a notch punch for snapping siding panels, for example, model SL5.

How the tool works

By appearance it resembles ordinary pliers, but unlike the latter, it forms U-shaped holes. The tool is suitable for both vinyl and aluminum slats.

The excess part of the bar is cut off with a circular saw or grinder - this option is more suitable for siding than metal shears. Then, the required number of notches is made on the site with a punch. It is necessary to ensure that the number of holes and the distance between them coincide with the slots on the factory material. The photo shows the SL5 model.

How to replace the punch during installation?

Installation of siding without a punch is quite possible. Professional fixtures rarely end up in the hands of a home master, since they are hefty in price, they are designed for long-term continuous work, and all this is simply not necessary for someone who clads the facade of their building alone.

So there are quite a few ways to do without a tool. How to replace it during installation?

Use a cut of the usual steel pipe with a diameter of 10 mm. The end of the pipe is flattened on an anvil in order to obtain a narrow oval hole. Its edges are cleaned with sandpaper to give them the desired sharpness. With vinyl slats, this do-it-yourself siding puncher does quite well.

The bar is placed on a hard surface, preferably on a desktop, the end of the flattened pipe is set vertically and is pressed into the surface of the lamellas with a hammer blow. The edges cut through the material, and the desired cut is obtained at the output. This process is much less pleasant than using a special tool, however, the cost of a self-made cutter is much lower. Despite the somewhat atypical shape of the holes, they cope with their role - they provide snapping of the lamellae.

In the video, a do-it-yourself siding puncher demonstrates its functionality.