Attic insulation scheme. Competent insulation of the attic floor with your own hands. Attic: why you need roof insulation

11.05.2020

The arrangement of living space on the site of the attic has long ceased to be a rare occurrence. More and more home owners are interested in how to properly carry out repairs so that life “under the roof” is no less comfortable than in the house itself. Consider how to make attic insulation if the roof is already covered, what materials are best suited for this purpose and what nuances you should pay attention to.

The attic is not just a habitable attic. There are some norms that distinguish these two rooms from each other. First of all, the attic roof must necessarily have a slope. In addition, the height of the room established by the norm must be at least 2.5 m.

Focusing on attractive appearance, many decide to equip the attic. But in reality, you have to deal with some nuances, which it is advisable to familiarize yourself with before starting work:

the materials that were used to build the attic directly determine the further heat loss in this room. Therefore, their choice should be approached very responsibly;
Properly selected engineering solutions have no less influence, which allow providing all the necessary communications on the top floor;
the shape of the roof plays a significant role. It can be single-sided, double-sided or broken;
in order to hide the load-bearing elements of the roof, you will have to show imagination;
the attic can be located not only on the territory of the house, but also go beyond it, relying on columns.

Each of these aspects has its own impact on the approach that will be required for high-quality roof insulation. But the main role still belongs to the two main materials - heat and water insulator. On the one hand, the space under the roof is in the coldest zone of the building. On the other hand, a strong difference between the temperature inside and outside often causes condensation, which has a destructive effect on materials.

The best materials for do-it-yourself attic insulation

For internal attic insulation, there are many suitable options. But your choice must be made based on the characteristics of the region of residence, as well as the design features of the particular roof with which to work. Consider what options exist today and what features are characteristic of them.

Attic insulation with foam plastic: the pros and cons of the material

Polyfoam is one of the most famous heaters, which occupies its niche among inexpensive thermal insulation materials. Its price is indeed significantly lower than that of many others, but this is far from its only advantage:

Styrofoam does not absorb moisture at all. If the material is pre-treated with an impregnation specially designed for this, then the water will simply drain down the surface;
light weight is another advantage that greatly facilitates transportation and installation, and also reduces the load on the roof;
the thermal conductivity of the foam is very low, so that it copes with its direct functions more than fully;
Styrofoam is easy to cut and fasten. This allows you to work with it without any problems, even in the absence of any experience.

Interesting! In terms of cost, this method can only be compared with the insulation of the ceiling with expanded clay, although now this method is used less and less.

Based on these characteristics, we can conclude that the foam is almost a win-win option when we are talking about the insulation of the attic from the inside. But the insulation of walls with foam plastic from the inside also has disadvantages, and sometimes they turn out to be much more significant than the advantages:

the vapor permeability of the foam is at a very low level. As a result, the room is often stuffy and hot. It also leads to an increase in humidity, which causes the development of fungi and mold on the wooden elements of the roof;
despite its artificial origin, this material is often damaged by rodents;
over time, wood tends to shrink, which leads to the formation of gaps between the foam elements. It is impossible to fix this, and the only way to solve the problem is a complete replacement thermal insulation material.

Many believe that the listed disadvantages are greater than the advantages and insulation of the attic with foam plastic is not justified. But it must be admitted that this is one of the most budget options, which delivers a minimum of hassle, and subject to the installation technology, it may well become an alternative to more expensive solutions.

Attic insulation with polystyrene foam: advantages, disadvantages and features

Extruded polystyrene foam is very similar to Styrofoam. Them specifications almost identical, with the exception of one significant aspect - installation technology. If the foam needs to be laid between the rafters, then the expanded polystyrene is placed on top, which eliminates the risk of cracks and gaps.

Helpful advice! Some manufacturers offer buyers plates with stepped joints, which makes the joints even more durable and reliable. Such fixation of the elements among themselves is an ideal option for insulating the roof of the attic.

Among other advantages of roof insulation with polystyrene foam, one cannot fail to note its low weight, which is perfectly combined with high strength and resistance to external influences. In addition, the operational life of this material is quite long, subject to the entire attic insulation technology with foam.

Expanded polystyrene is not prone to rotting or decomposition processes, which is also important in the case of roof work. It can be topped with any topcoat that will give an attractive appearance and provide additional protection.

Working with expanded polystyrene on your own is simple: a variety of adhesive mixtures and mastics are suitable for fixing it. And in some cases, even a construction stapler is used. So for installation there is no need to purchase any expensive additional elements.

But behind all these positive characteristics, one should not forget about the only, but rather serious, drawback of polystyrene foam insulation from the inside of walls and roofs - the material has an increased level of combustibility. For owners, this means the need for a more careful and thoughtful summing up of all communications, in particular, electricity.

Of course, manufacturers are trying to minimize this drawback, but today we can say with confidence that this question remains open, and every owner who has made a choice in favor of insulating the walls from the inside with foam plastic is obliged to take care of his safety.

Interesting! It is no coincidence that this material is most often chosen for warming the balcony. Expanded polystyrene has a very low thermal conductivity, and at the same time on the balcony it practically does not have to come into contact with electricity.

Insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool: a worthy alternative to penoplex

Mineral wool is another thermal insulation material that is used everywhere and is widely known for its characteristics. It got its name because of the fibrous structure, similar to medical cotton wool. You can buy it in rolls, which makes transportation and installation even more convenient.

Low thermal conductivity is perfectly combined with the ability not to absorb moisture. Although, if this happens, the material dries quickly without losing its appearance and technical characteristics.

Mineral wool belongs to the category of environmentally friendly and safe materials, which becomes noticeable even if top part the roof will be covered with metal tiles, which are prone to strong heating under the influence of sunlight. In addition, mineral wool also serves as a sound-absorbing barrier, and unlike polystyrene, it is completely of no interest to rodents and various insects.

Roof insulation from the inside with mineral wool should be done taking into account the fact that this is a rather elastic material, even despite its soft fibrous structure. It is quite capable of being held between the rafters, subject to high-quality fixation.

Helpful advice! In the process of cutting mineral wool for laying sheets between the rafters, it is necessary to leave a margin of about 2 cm. This will allow them to be held and not fall out even if there is no additional elements mounts.

Insulation of the roof from the inside with glass wool: is it worth using this material

According to its characteristics, glass wool is similar to mineral wool, but in this case, the fibers that make up the material are longer, which generally increases the elasticity of the material. Slightly higher and strength indicators and soundproofing ability. But when in contact with moisture, glass wool is inferior to mineral wool, absorbing more water.

The use of glass wool for insulation of residential premises does not lead to any negative consequences for the health of residents. No toxic substances are used in the production process. In addition, glass wool is characterized by a low flammability index.

In the process of working with the material, safety regulations are required to avoid getting glass wool fibers into the air. Its small particles can cause irritation of the mucous membranes, and therefore the use of a respirator and goggles is a prerequisite.

Helpful advice! Sometimes glass wool fibers can irritate the skin, so it is recommended to wear closed clothing and even gloves when working with it.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic roof from the inside using stone wool

Stone wool is the most expensive option among similar materials. But at the same time, it is the safest for human health and significantly exceeds all other options in terms of reliability. Here are some of its main advantages:

the thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is one of the lowest;
stone wool remains completely environmentally friendly even when heated;
the layer of this heat insulator is also an excellent noise-absorbing barrier;
the level of vapor permeability is very high;

the material practically does not burn;
no mechanical loads can deform stone wool or affect its characteristics;
the material has a long service life;
stone wool can be purchased in the form of slabs, which are easily cut into segments of the required length and attached to the ceiling surface.

Due to the high cost of stone wool, they often try to replace it with mineral wool or glass wool. But such a replacement cannot be called complete, since this affects the quality of insulation quite seriously. Many users claim that the price of the material is quite justified, and subject to the installation technology, it very quickly pays for the provoked costs.

Related article:

Types of insulation for roofs and ceilings. Mineral and synthetic roof insulation. Mansard roof insulation.

In addition, it is quite possible to do all the work on insulating the roof of the attic from the inside with your own hands. A video instruction can demonstrate the procedure for carrying out the work, and the recommendations of specialists will help you avoid common mistakes.

Insulation of the attic with ecowool is one of the most effective ways to combat the cold.

Ecowool is a pre-shredded material that is first blown into the cracks, and then, using the same method, a layer is placed between the ceiling and the rafters, using a device specially designed for this. This is an expensive procedure, but it allows you to completely eliminate all the risks of drafts and ensure the most effective insulation.

Ecowool consists of 80% completely natural material - paper, the properties of which are very similar to those characteristic of wood. With its natural origin, ecowool reduces the level of heat loss no less effectively than other materials.

One of the components that is part of ecowool is borax. According to its characteristics, it is an antiseptic. natural origin, which allows to provide wooden roof elements with effective protection against the formation of fungus and mold.

Ecowool is applied in a thin layer, but at the same time it provides a decent level of not only heat, but also sound insulation. The material retains its characteristics even after decades of use. So not too low cost is the only drawback of this material, which is fully justified by its excellent properties.

Attic insulation with polyurethane foam: technology basics and material features

Foamed polyurethane foam is the most modern among all the listed ways to insulate the attic. Its main difference is the complete absence of joints or gaps that can become a source of cold air. In addition, the operational period of this material is one of the longest, and is up to 30 years.

Foamed polyurethane foam is not subject to shrinkage, even if the wooden roof of the house begins to deform a little over time. Its solid structure completely eliminates the risk of moisture absorption, which eliminates the need to install an additional vapor barrier layer.

But there are also aspects that significantly complicate the process of using polyurethane foam as a roof insulation from the inside. First of all, this concerns the application procedure, which requires complex and expensive equipment. Its purchase is almost never justified, so it is usually rented.

Another aspect is the complex application technology, which provides for a certain experience in this area and does not allow beginners to cope with the task on their own with high quality.

Helpful advice! Perfect option- invite a team of workers who will come with their own equipment and in just a few hours will make high-quality insulation of the attic of your house.

Insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands using penofol

Penofol is a kind of foamed polyethylene - a technology that occupies its niche among the ways modern insulation walls and houses. Along with high sound insulation performance, it is also worth noting that the penofol has a high-quality aluminum coating, which can be applied to one or two sides.

Here are a few more arguments in favor of using penofol for attic insulation:

the material does not pose any threat to human health or the environment;
its thermal conductivity is extremely low;
the closed system of air bubbles characteristic of this material serves as an excellent barrier to steam penetration.

This method is also not cheap and requires significant financial investments for implementation. But, as practice shows, it is better to spend money on quality material and thereby ensure comfortable living conditions for many years to come.

It is not uncommon for a combination of materials. Materials that match in characteristics can be used for insulation together. For example, mineral wool and polystyrene foam are perfectly combined with each other. The first is laid between the rafters, and the second is placed closer to the edge of the roof. This combination will achieve the desired effect and significantly save on the purchase of materials.

Can provide reliable thermal insulation in combination with other materials

As you can see from the descriptions, each insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages. The only question is to choose the most suitable option, which will satisfy the idea of \u200b\u200bmatching the price and quality of the material.

One of the most common mistakes that owners make is a rash choice in favor of the cheapest option for attic insulation. Videos and articles can demonstrate the positive aspects of a particular solution, but you need to choose taking into account all the nuances and characteristics. Attempts to save on heat-insulating material can lead to the fact that after some time of operation, it will be necessary to carry out repairs or even completely replace all the material.

Warming the attic from the inside with your own hands: video and stages of work

Each of the materials has its own fastening characteristics and should only be used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. But if we talk about the general procedure for carrying out work, then there are mandatory steps that are carried out almost always, regardless of the material chosen.

The first layer of waterproofing material is laid out, which should protect the insulation from the damaging effects of moisture. The film is overlapped in such a way that one layer is 10-15 cm on top of the other. The material is fastened with a construction stapler, and the joints are additionally glued with adhesive tape.

Then, if necessary, a crate is created. For it, you can use wooden slats, the width of which is 8-10 cm. You need to attach them to the rafters, placing them parallel to each other at a distance of 50-60 cm. It is very important to check each element individually using the building level. This will prevent any roof defects from occurring in the future.

A heat insulator is laid on the rafters or crate and fastened in a suitable way for it. For example, if we are talking about using some type of cotton wool, sold in the form of rolls, then the material is cut into pieces of the right size in order to lay them between the rafters. In this case, the thickness of the insulation must be such as to correspond to the width of the log. It is especially important if you decide to insulate the walls from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall. In this case, everything free space should be filled with insulation.

The top layer of this "pie" is a layer of vapor barrier material, which can be used as a polyethylene film, glassine or roofing material. As in the case of waterproofing, the selected material is overlapped. True, in this case, it is better to fasten with the help of thin wooden slats, placing them in 40-50 cm increments. All joints must be glued with adhesive tape.

Helpful advice! If you need to lay several layers of thermal insulation material, you need to lay a vapor barrier film between each of them. This is especially true for cold regions.

As a final step, it remains only to take care of a suitable topcoat, which can be attached to the crate or, in its absence, directly to the bars. It is worth taking into account the weight of the decorative panels used, since the installation of the heaviest of them may require the preliminary installation of a metal profile frame.

The main mistakes made in the process of attic insulation

The end result of the work that is done by one's own hands directly depends on how accurately the technology and all the prescribed rules are followed. Particular attention should be paid to the procedure for laying the waterproofing layer, since materials that are able to absorb moisture later dry out, which often causes cold in the room.

if the slope of the roof does not exceed 13°, this will cause precipitation to be retained on the surface. The result is rust and leaks. All this can adversely affect the condition of the insulation, so it is important to make sure that the angle of inclination is large enough before starting work;
installation of thermal insulation material on the walls and roof - that's not all necessary work. It is necessary to take care of the insulation of windows (according to Swedish technology). To do this, it is best to invite specialists to surely avoid leakage. Especially if you want to install windows at an angle;

in order to provide ventilation to the heat-insulating material and the ability to dry out if it gets wet, it is advisable to leave a gap of about 2-3 cm between the material and the roof;
it is absolutely impossible to skip at least one of the necessary layers of vapor or waterproofing materials;
if the heat-insulating material exceeds the rafters in thickness, then their height can be increased by filling additional slats on their own.

These simple recommendations can help in the process of work, significantly improving the quality of insulation. However, if for any reason there are doubts about the strength and experience, it would be better to invite a specialist. Of course, you will have to pay for this, but in this case you will not have to redo everything twice.

Warming the gable of the attic from the inside is far from the most difficult task that the owner of the house may face. Often, on the top floor, the owners want to place a balcony, the insulation technology of which also has its own characteristics.

As for the walls, a wide variety of materials can be used to insulate the ceiling on the balcony, although it is worth noting that here the loggia insulation technology is often used, which has not been mentioned before. To understand in detail the features of this process will help you understand step-by-step instruction"Insulation of the balcony from the inside with your own hands."

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool: video instruction

As good example it is recommended to watch a training video, which details the technology of wall insulation from the inside with mineral wool. This will allow you to familiarize yourself with all the nuances in detail and avoid the previously mentioned common mistakes.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Some time ago, I completed an order for attic insulation for winter residence. While doing the work, I thought that the technology I used is quite simple and even an unprepared person can make thermal insulation with their own hands from the inside.

In today's material I will tell you what is better and how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands. This guide will help you avoid the same mistakes that I had to make in the beginning of my career as a builder.

I assure you, upon completion of the work, the attic floor of a wooden house will turn from a useless trash storage into a cozy and comfortable room, for living in which all your household members will fight.

Features and methods of insulation of the attic room

Before talking about ways to insulate the under-roof space from the inside, I want to note that this is a must, even if you are not going to live in a house in the winter. The fact is that the attic, due to its location, is strongly warmed by the sun in summer time, therefore, without a reliable insulating layer, the temperature inside will be uncomfortable (or you will have to install a very powerful air conditioner).

If you have already insulated ordinary living quarters and think that you know how to insulate the attic, I have to disappoint you. The thermal insulation of a room under the roof (not an ordinary room on the second floor, namely the attic) has some features that I simply have to mention:

The geometry of the attic follows the contours pitched roof, so it is far from a standard cube or parallelepiped. Insulation will have to be installed on inclined surfaces, so the choice of heat-insulating material will have to be approached with great care. For example, the use of too soft and flexible products is completely excluded.
The roof truss system and roofing are always made of lightweight materials so as not to exert a large load on bearing walls Houses. Consequently, the heat-insulating cake should weigh as much as to only slightly weight the structure, otherwise the roof may collapse with a significant snow load.
In addition to the roof slopes, the attic has two more gables and a floor (it is also an attic floor). If you do not perform thermal insulation of these surfaces, all efforts to install insulation in the rafters will not lead to any significant result.

Roofing material, no matter how reliable it may be, can pass atmospheric moisture, which, in turn, can damage the insulation layer or significantly reduce its technical characteristics. Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to reliably protect the thermal insulation from moisture.
When buildings catch fire, the fire usually moves to the upper part of the dwelling, where the attic is located. Therefore, to ensure the possibility of evacuating people from this room for thermal insulation, I personally recommend using non-combustible or poorly flammable heaters. After all, the matter is further aggravated by the fact that the roof truss system is made of wood, which cannot be classified as NG.
And last but not least, environmental friendliness. Care must be taken to ensure that the insulation does not pose a danger to people living in the attic, regardless of the conditions of its operation - heating, moistening, freezing, and so on.

First, let's decide on the method of thermal insulation. There are two options:

Insulation of attic walls. This method is resorted to in the case when the roof slopes are not the walls of the attic. The role of the latter is played by additional partitions made of wood, drywall, plywood, and so on, which should be insulated.
The advantage of this method is the presence of additional ventilated space under the roof. Minus - a decrease in the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

Insulation of roof slopes. In this case, the heat insulator is installed in truss system, after which you can divide the spacious attic with the help of thin partitions, without worrying about cold or heat. The advantage is that the entire under-roof space will be insulated. And with the help of partitions, you can divide it into several separate rooms, arranging an additional pantry in the attic room.

I prefer the second method of insulation, so it will be discussed further.

Choice of materials and tools

It's time to decide how to insulate the attic room from the inside. To do this, you can use expanded polystyrene, expanded clay, polyurethane foam, ecowool and many other heat insulators that domestic and foreign industries offer to purchase.

But I am insulating the attic with basalt wool. This material, in my opinion, best meets the requirements for the heat-insulating layer of such a room.

I will briefly list the most important advantages of basalt mats:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The material retains heat indoors so well that for effective thermal insulation it is enough to install a layer 10 cm thick.
Hygroscopicity	Basalt fibers do not absorb water and have hydrophobic properties, so moisture that has got inside is quickly removed through the gaps without reducing the operational properties of the material.
Vapor permeability	The material does not prevent air infiltration, normalizing the humidity in the attic and extending the life of wooden parts.
Incombustibility	Basalt wool does not ignite in a fire and contributes to the extinction of the flame, giving time for the evacuation of people or the elimination of the source of ignition.

I could talk about the advantages of mineral wool for a long time, but this is not the topic of today's article. Therefore, he simply noted the better it is to insulate the attic from the inside.

I prefer to use TechnoNIKOL Technolight Extra basalt mats 10 cm thick, 120 by 60 cm in size. It is not advisable to buy a denser material, since it will not experience load between the rafters.

It is very important to pay attention to the dimensions of the material. I chose TechnoNikol mats because their width is 60 cm, namely, this is the distance between adjacent rafters in the case I am describing.

In addition to direct thermal insulation, other materials are also needed:

Wooden bars with a section of 30 by 50 mm, with the help of which a counter-lattice will be formed for ventilation gaps that help remove moisture.
Super diffuse vapor permeable hydro- and windproof membrane. These films are of especially high quality from Strotex and Juta, so I recommend buying them.
Penofol. A thermal reflective material that I'm going to use in place of the standard vapor barrier film that keeps the mineral wool from getting wet from inside the room.

Antiseptic primer. She needs to process the roof trusses to prevent the appearance of mold and fungus. You can buy a composition with fire retardants, thereby increasing the fire safety of the building.
OSB boards. They will be needed to construct the crate, on which flexible tiles are laid on one side and eurolining on the other. If you are going to use other materials, then a solid crate may not be needed.
Polyurethane polyurethane foam. Useful for sealing joints between mineral mats.
U-shaped perforated brackets for mounting galvanized lathing. For me, they will hold the installed mineral mats in place until they are sewn with decorative material.

Well, now you can safely move on to how to insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands.

Arrangement of insulation

The whole process of warming can be conditionally divided into several steps:

So, I will explain how to do the work correctly with my own hands in each of the mentioned stages.

Step 1 - Laying waterproofing and roofing material

Let's start with the installation of the waterproofing membrane, since it is installed outside the room before fixing roofing. Only in this way can the insulating layer be reliably protected from the ingress of atmospheric moisture into it.

I must say right away that the entire roof truss system in the case I am describing was installed. However, the roofing material and the crate on it have not yet been laid.

The process consists of the following steps:

I roll out the first layer of hydro- and windproof membrane. You need to start work from the bottom of the roof slope, gradually moving up. The membrane is fixed with staples and a construction stapler or wide-head nails. It is necessary to install the film not in tension, but with a slight sag (about 2 cm per meter), so that when the air temperature decreases, it does not tear.

I lay the second and subsequent sheets of waterproofing film. You need to act in the same way as in the previous paragraph. But there is one point here. The edge of the upper membrane must overlap the edge of the lower one by 10 cm to ensure complete impermeability to moisture.

I seal the seams of the membrane. For this, adhesive tape is used. It just needs to be glued to the joints of adjacent waterproofing membranes.
I install a control panel. Her role is played wooden blocks, which are fixed with self-tapping screws over the waterproofing membrane on the rafters. Previously, I recommend impregnating them with an antiseptic and flame retardant in order to extend the life of the roof structure.
I fix the boards of the additional crate. They are installed perpendicular to the rafters and fastened with self-tapping screws to the counter-bar. The step between adjacent parts is about 40 cm.

I install OSB base plates. They are attached to the boards with self-tapping screws. Here it is necessary to monitor the length of the fastening fittings so that too long screws do not tear the hydro- and windproof membrane located below.

Installing a flexible roof To do this, a lining carpet is glued to the slabs, after which shingles of flexible tiles are fixed on it.

If you are insulating the attic with a finished roof, then the waterproofing membrane will have to be installed from the inside. This method has two disadvantages:

the labor intensity of the work being carried out increases;
waterproofing film will not protect the wooden roof trusses.

It is necessary to fix and seal the film so that it wraps around the rafters and adheres to the roofing sheathing. Thus, peculiar baths are formed, in which insulating material will be invested.

But before that, it is necessary to prepare the under-roof space for the installation of mineral mats.

Step 2 - Preparing the truss system

The space under the roof, namely the truss system, is being prepared for thermal insulation:

I clean wooden parts from dust and debris, remove objects that interfere with the installation of mineral mats. It is best to clean the rafters with a vacuum cleaner, which will remove dust, sawdust and shavings left after the installation of the roofing material. You should also check if the sharp ends of screws, nails, and so on do not stick out from somewhere. They can cause injury or damage insulation materials.

I install engineering communications and insulate them. Ventilation and chimney pipes can be installed on the roof, as well as electrical wiring necessary to connect household appliances in the attic room:
- Ventilation pipes, if they are laid in the non-insulated part of the attic, must be thermally insulated with mineral wool or foam shells.
- For a chimney, a box should be designed to pass through the attic floor and roof. They must be filled with heat-insulating material (most often perlite or expanded clay), which will increase the fire safety of the room.
- Electrical wiring should be placed in polymer flexible or rigid cable ducts that will prevent the rafters and insulation layer from igniting in the event of a short circuit.

I prime wooden surfaces. For work it is better to use universal composition, which has both antiseptic and fire-fighting properties. For example, the composition for wood BS-13 or Fire protection Strazh-2. Apply it to wooden details it is necessary with a roller or sprayer, after processing in two layers with intermediate drying for 3 or 4 hours.

I install U-shaped brackets on the side surfaces of the rafters. It is not necessary to use them because correct installation rafters are mineral mats and so become tightly by surprise. But I'm used to playing it safe, and their acquisition does not hit hard on the budget planned for insulation. But if you use cotton wool in rolls, you can’t do without it.

Step 3 - Installation of thermal insulation

Insulation of the attic from the inside continues. Let's move on to the main part:

I do cutting mats. Mineral wool is cut into the required pieces with a sharp knife or saw with very fine teeth. If the distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the insulation, there is practically no need to trim.

I install mats between the rafters. To do this, you need to slightly bend the material in the middle, and then insert the insulation in the right place. Having straightened, the basalt mat will take its place and will not fall out of the inclined surface.

I fix the mats with brackets. You just need to bend part of the bracket so that its edge is on the surface of the mat and holds it in place. Instead of brackets, you can use galvanized perforated tapes that are attached directly to the lower edges of the rafters.
I seal the seams of the material with polyurethane mounting foam. Gaps must be filled with a gun. Moreover, act in such a way that the composition is inside the entire gap, and not just on its surface. If you make a mistake at this stage, cold bridges may form at the joints, which will reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

To increase the reliability of the heat-insulating layer, you can install not one, but two layers of insulation. Just take mineral mats with a thickness of not 10, but 5 cm. Then the individual layers are installed so that the joints are apart. And cold bridges can not be feared at all, although it is still worth sealing the seams.

Step 4 - Finishing coat

decorative trim enclosing structures of the attic room is made as follows:

I install a heat-reflecting and vapor barrier layer. As you understand, penofol will serve me for this - foamed polyethylene with a reflective layer of polished aluminum foil. It is mounted as follows:
- The first sheet of penofol is installed with a foil layer towards the living quarters, after which it is aimed at the rafters using a construction stapler.
- The second and subsequent sheets of material are installed so that between the individual elements there is an overlap of 10 cm.
- Penofol joints are glued with double-sided adhesive tape (inside the joint) or metallized tape (which is glued on top of the joint). It is necessary to make sure that a completely homogeneous and sealed layer is formed.
- If the thickness of your rafters is such that the edge of the insulation does not reach the cut of the tree, then penofol must be laid on the surface of mineral wool, fixing it on the side surface of the roof support beams. Otherwise, it may rustle when air passes through the ventilation gap.

I mount the bars of the control battens for arranging the ventilation gap. It is necessary to fasten the planks with self-tapping screws to the rafters on top of the foam. These details create a gap between finishing and a heat-reflecting surface, which is necessary to remove condensed moisture.

Installing OSB boards. They are attached to the counter-lattice with self-tapping screws. Everything is standard here, with the exception of some small nuances:
- It is necessary to install the sheets so that at the edges (at the gables and the floor) there is a gap of 1-2 cm thick. It is necessary to remove excess moisture and compensate for possible changes in the size of the material.
- The seams between adjacent slabs should be staggered (staggered) and be 2-3 mm thick to avoid warping of the surface during thermal expansion of the base.
- It is necessary to fix the plates so that their edges are located on the bars of the counter-lattice. The distance between the screws is no more than 20 cm.

You can later install eurolining or other decorative material on the plates. And we have ahead of the insulation of the gables, which form two of the four walls of the attic room.

Step 5 - Warming the gables

I strongly advise these parts of the attic to be insulated from the outside, using dense mineral wool for this, which can be covered with cement plaster on top. The scheme of work is as follows:

Preparing the surface for work. To do this, you need to clean the surface of the walls from the remnants of mortar, debris, dirt and dust. After that, the following operations are performed:
- Damage repair. If gaps and cracks are found in the masonry, they must be repaired. cement mortar or blow out with mounting foam.
- Surface priming. To do this, you need to take a primer for bricks or (not the one with which you processed the rafters), and then cover the pediments with it in two layers with intermediate drying.

I mount the start profile. This is a perforated galvanized part on which the insulation layer will rest. It is fixed at the bottom of the wall strictly horizontally. If several of these parts are needed, then install them with a small gap to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

I glue the first row of mineral mats. Let me remind you that you need to use dense mineral wool, which is intended for subsequent finishing with cement mortar. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- The surface of mineral wool is pre-reinforced with cement glue, which is evenly distributed over the slab with a spatula.

A bead of cement glue is applied to the mineral wool at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Several lumps of glue are also placed in the middle of the mat so that at least 40% of the sheet surface is covered.
The part is attached to the wall. at the same time, its lower end must be supported on a pre-installed starting profile. Using a water level, it is necessary to check that the basalt mat is installed strictly vertically in all planes.
Behind the first layer, other mats are glued to the wall in the same way. It is necessary to follow the verticals, and that the seams between adjacent parts are minimal.

I glue the second and subsequent rows of mineral mats. There are no differences compared to the procedure described in the previous paragraph. You just need to make sure that the vertical ones go sideways. That is, the seam of the upper row fell in the middle of the insulation sheet of the lower row (as in brickwork).
After the solution hardens, I fix the insulating layer with dowels - “fungi”. They are installed as follows:
- A hole is drilled directly through the mineral mats in the wall using a perforator, the depth of which in brick or concrete should exceed 2 cm.
- A dowel is inserted into the resulting hole, after which the core is installed inside.
- Using a hammer, the core is hammered into the dowel so that its cap is slightly recessed into the surface of the insulation.
- It is not only mineral mats that need to be fixed. "Fungi" should be installed in the seams of the insulating material so that the heat-insulating layer does not come off under load.

I seal the seams of the material. To insulate the joints, polyurethane foam is used, which glues the fibers of the insulation together, preventing the formation of cold bridges at the junctions of adjacent mineral plates. It is necessary to fill the seam with a gun as tightly as possible.
I reinforce the surface of the insulation with an alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh. To do this, mineral mats are covered with a reinforcing compound, after which a mesh is placed on it and pressed into the mortar with a plaster trowel. Then a little more solution is applied on top so as to completely hide the mesh inside.
I do surface finishing. The reinforced insulated surface of the gables is plastered, after which it is decorated with the selected decorative material. In the simplest case, you can simply paint the gable with facade paint.

That's all. Some still resort to thermal insulation of the interfloor ceiling, however, with such powerful insulation that I have described, I consider this procedure unnecessary.

Summary

Now you know how to independently perform the correct insulation of the walls in the attic floor and the floor with your own hands using mineral wool at the lowest cost. However, there are other options.

For example, sprayed polystyrene foam, with which it is easy to perform thermal insulation of complex areas, including the Mauerlat in a heated attic. You can learn how to spray PPU yourself from the video in this article.

If you have any questions - ask them in the comments!

September 7, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

The attic in the house is a space with great potential. It has a spacious area to serve as a place to store things or a seasonal vacation, and a non-trivial shape that can become the basis for the implementation of design ideas. Not to use its opportunities is a big omission.

You can organize the space of the attic floor different ways. But the most rational of them is the arrangement for living quarters. This will help self-insulation of the attic from the inside. The choice of material and the order of work will also not be difficult after a detailed consideration of the features of the materials and the insulation process.

Why insulate?

A good, warm attic has a number of advantages over an uninsulated floor:

Can be used as a living space all year round.
An uninteresting shape is suitable for interior decoration in an unusual style.
The upper floor, due to its isolation and unusualness, can serve as a bedroom, study or children's room. Especially in the attic like, of course, children.
Skylights are arranged differently than usual and let in a lot of light. This is useful if a children's room is located there, and is also suitable for other purposes, because natural lighting is always better than artificial.
When transferring the function of any room in the house to the attic floor, a lot of usable space is freed up.

At the same time, attic insulation, despite the name, works in the opposite direction. Summer stuffiness and heat, concentrated under the roof of the house, are not the best companions of comfort. To the air in space attic floor did not heat up because the sun warms the roof all day, thermal insulation is needed.

Many people forget about this, choosing to insulate the attic from the inside, and instead of a room for all-season use, they get an option for wintering. In summer it is impossible to be there because of high temperatures and stuffy air.

Why insulate the attic is clear: increase the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe house by turning the attic into a living space. What specific type this room will be depends on the individual needs of the family. It can accommodate a greenhouse, a dining room (which is very convenient, since it will be easier to arrange an exhaust hood, and the smells of food will definitely not penetrate into other rooms), a children's room, a bedroom, an office, a pet room, a dressing room, a guest room.

Roof construction options

The convenience of an attic for living largely depends on its size and the shape of the roof, which forms the walls and ceiling of the room. The form also affects the complexity of the warming procedure. The type of roof is laid during construction in accordance with the design of the building.

In total, there are about a dozen types of roofs, to one degree or another suitable for arranging an attic:

Shed. The slope can be on the left or on right side. This determines the scheme of the future home, designed in accordance with building codes. This type of roof is not the best, but not the most inconvenient option for a living space. At least one half of the attic is suitable for a person to fit in it at full height and be able to move freely. The second can be assigned to the organization of storage systems or a bed.

Gable or gable. Available in both symmetrical and asymmetric versions. In this type of attic, all free space is concentrated in the place where the roof has the highest point. There is less and less of it under the slopes, and if the slope is gentle, then most of the area will not be used.
Hip. A roof with four slopes: two in the form of a trapezoid, two in the form of beveled triangles.

Shatrovaya. Variety hip roof, which is erected over the base of the house square shape. All 4 slopes in this case have the same type of beveled triangles.
Half hip. It's a variety gable roof, in which, for practical purposes, the side slopes on the gable part are cut off. It is more convenient for arranging the attic floor than the previous two options.
Slightly less common semi-hip hipped roof. Its pediment parts are formed by windows, and slopes are located under them.

Mansard roof. It is recognized as optimal, since it is closest to the coveted U-shaped shape of the dwelling. Such a roof does not impose any restrictions on the arrangement functional areas inside the attic. You can easily place a child's room in it, which can later be converted into his own office or bedroom.
Broken or multi-tweezer. These are options for complex design ideas. It is impossible to say unequivocally how suitable they are for arranging a warm attic, since their shape can be very diverse. But those species that are most similar to the U-shape are definitely suitable for this purpose.

Load calculation according to SNiP

When it comes to attic insulation, it is necessary to consider several types of SNiP: general rules for the arrangement of residential premises and the rules for choosing materials for thermal insulation of a residential building.

Calculation of the load on the supporting structures of the building. The own weight and thickness of materials, decorative finishes, interior design of the attic significantly increase the load on the supporting structures in any type of house. The maximum allowable load for each option is different, but the planned changes should not exceed it.

Proper assessment of the structures under construction. For the reconstruction of the house, which in many cases will include the reorganization of the attic in residential attic need legal grounds. Each case is individual.

In one, if the documents are drawn up correctly and the construction of the house occurs immediately with the attic, it can be redone in any way without unnecessary red tape.

In a private house, the construction of an attic depends only on the height of the floors and compliance with the load standards for load-bearing structures; in an apartment building, it is important to take into account its status. If this is an architectural monument, the construction of an attic cannot be legalized.

Compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards. They regulate the minimum height of the attic room, the degree of its illumination and insolation - protection from ultraviolet rays.
The number of floors in the house. Building codes allow a maximum of three floors, while basements and semi-basements that protrude more than a meter above the ground are also considered. If, after insulating the attic, it becomes a full-fledged living space and the fourth floor in the house, then such a building will be considered illegal. In theory, it should be demolished.

Degree of fire resistance. It is measured in minutes and in most positions is:

for lower floors 60 minutes,
for the attic - 30, since the fire spreads upwards and the risk of ignition of the lower floors from the attic is less.

When arranging an attic, especially a wooden one, for a living space, all the requirements must be met: treat the wood with special impregnations that prevent the spread of flame, choose fire-resistant materials, and lay communications with high quality.

It is also important to calculate which layer is needed when using different materials. As a rule, the recommended thickness and density of foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam or foam glass is indicated by the manufacturer or GOST for a particular material.

Review of materials: pros and cons

The construction market offers the materials themselves in abundance. In this case, only a heater is not enough, since technology involves the layer-by-layer use of materials for various purposes:

Material for roofing and walls. These are the elements that form the basis of the attic space. The walls of the house can be wooden, brick, block. For roofing choose professional sheets, ondulin, slate, metal or ceramic tiles.
Bars for the counter-lattice. The timber is used wooden, mounted on the rafters. The counter grille is necessary to create air circulation so that condensation does not form under the roof sheeting.

Windproofing and waterproofing. Polypropylene and polyethylene films, various non-woven roll materials are used. Films with anti-condensation coating are in priority. They are overlapped by 20-25 cm between the bars and roofing material, stick together.
Thermal insulation. Various types of insulation, which are laid at a distance of 25 cm from the waterproofing film under slate or tiles, and 45-50 cm under sheet materials.
Vapor barrier. It is necessary from the outside of the insulation to protect it from vapors and moisture contained in the indoor air. Various film and foil materials are used to prevent the formation of condensate and the greenhouse effect.

Internal crate. Decorative decoration of the ceiling and walls. In some cases, when the height of the roof allows, you can "hem" the ceiling. The air space between it and the roof will make the thermal insulation more effective.

If there are no questions with most points, then the choice of insulation is the most crucial moment. His choice is wide, which is both a plus and a minus, since it is necessary to evaluate a large number of options.

Insulate the attic:

sawdust;
mineral wool;
ecowool;
basalt type of cotton wool;
polyurethane foam plates (PPU);
extruded foam;
penoplex;
foam glass;
construction foam;
foil and heat-reflecting material.

The use of sawdust for thermal insulation is a proven and effective method. It is cheap, the mixtures are prepared by hand, but with the availability of alternative materials, the method is already outdated. A lot of time is spent, working with sawdust is clean, but unpleasant, and the flooring will not differ in durability. Ecological cleanliness in this case is rather not at hand, because wood fibers are an excellent breeding ground for organisms.

Ordinary polystyrene also belongs to the materials of the past. It has a number of advantages: little weight, low price, easy installation alone, fairly long service life, good insulating properties. But the disadvantages are still significant: fragility and fragility, retains moisture inside, a suitable environment for the reproduction of living organisms, a thick layer of material is needed.

Mineral wool is a more relevant insulation. Its advantages:

high coefficient of thermal insulation;
resistant to moisture, chemicals and alkalis;
provides good ventilation in the room;
promotes sound insulation;
high coefficient of fire resistance;
long service life;
strength;
safety for residential use.

Disadvantages:

With poor organization of the waterproofing and vapor barrier layers, ingress of precipitation on the material, mineral wool loses several percent of thermal conductivity.
Capable of accumulating dust over time.
High-quality mineral wool is quite expensive, but it is environmentally friendly. There are often fakes on the market in which the formaldehyde content exceeds the norm. They are harmful to health and are prohibited for use in residential areas.

Ecowool, in its essence, represents cellulose fibers for three-fourths of the composition, and the remaining share is made up of substances that allow the use of cellulose as a building material - this is borax and boric acid. They increase the fire resistance of cotton wool, prevent the appearance of microorganisms, fungi, rot.

The advantages include the good ability of the insulation to retain heat in the room, not to interfere with ventilation, high-quality insulating properties, natural and safe raw materials based on ecowool.

The material also has a minus, and a significant one. Ecowool is not produced in the form of plates or sheets, it is a loose fiber that must be applied wet using special equipment. And to work with the equipment you will need qualified installers.

In addition to ecowool, foreign manufacturers also offer other types of insulation based on plant fibers: ecolen and cotton fabric insulation.

Another type of cotton wool is basalt. It is related to the mineral. Since its components are present in the composition, but the basis of the material is basalt rock. Basalt imparts unique qualities to the material.

Its advantages:

components of organic origin without formaldehydes and harmful resins;
thermal insulation qualities, sound insulation;
does not ignite, does not support combustion;
biostable;
plates are convenient and easy to use;
served for decades.

Disadvantages:

high cost of insulation square meter basalt slabs;
absorbs moisture well.

The third type of wool, glass wool, has similar characteristics. It is more convenient to use, because the material is rolled.

Extruded foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam combines the qualities and advantages of mineral boards and ordinary foam plastic, thanks to a special production technology.

Its performance characteristics are mostly positive:

lightweight, but durable - this allows you to use it for insulation in large quantities, work with it simply alone;
closed pores of the material are moisture resistant;
easy to cut into fragments, it is not brittle and does not crumble;
does not cause interest, as a habitat, neither in fungi, nor in rodents;
low cost.

The disadvantages include: vapor permeability, low fire resistance.

The group of gas-filled plastics of the new generation also includes polyurethane foam (PPU). Its advantages make the material one of the best for insulating the attic floor: it is lightweight, moisture and fire resistant, does not accumulate dust, does not attract living organisms, and is very durable.

There are two types: sheet and sprayed. Sheet material is very convenient in that it does not crumble in the process of cutting fragments and closely fits the part to the part. The sprayed type of protection creates a monolithic layer under the roof, due to which it is not afraid of precipitation and cold. And also it has good adhesion to various surfaces, is resistant to the appearance of microorganisms and allows installation work to be carried out as soon as possible.

The sprayed material creates better thermal insulation and helps muffle extraneous sounds, but it has two serious drawbacks. Firstly, the application will require an expensive service of professionals with special equipment. Secondly, it is so dense that it "does not breathe". Humid and stuffy air will accumulate in the room if it was not possible to organize additional ventilation.

It is advisable to use both types of PPU at the same time. Large areas are covered with sheet material, and hard-to-reach places and cracks are treated with spraying. This will completely solve the problem of even the coldest attic.

Foam glass is a rare and unfairly relegated material. The reason for this is simple - a very high price. Foam glass, as the name implies, is obtained by foaming fiberglass. It turns out a porous (cellular) material that is absolutely not susceptible to fire, safe, durable and meets all the requirements for insulation. If financial possibilities allow, then foam glass as thermal insulation should be considered first of all.

A separate group from plastic and glass derivatives are foil materials for insulating rooms from the inside. By themselves, they have a small thickness, so they are often combined with various variations of foamed cellular materials that are inside between two layers of foil.

The advantages of reflective materials are obvious:

Light weight and small thickness. The attic is rare large sizes, especially considering that its dimensions are hidden by the shape of the roof, and 20 mm foil sheet is much more practical than 200 mm foam.
The material is easy to cut, does not crumble, does not slip on the surface.
There are variants of self-adhesive sheets, in which one side is covered with a reflective layer, and the other with an adhesive adhesive. They greatly simplify installation work.
Foil is an excellent heat reflector. Thanks to its abilities, in the cold season, heat does not leave the room, and in hot weather it remains outside.
Reflective coatings are hydrophobic, they simply repel water.
It is at the same time isolation from precipitation, dust, wind, cold.
Despite the minimum thickness, it copes with the function of sound insulation.
Elastic and flexible.
Biostable.
Do not emit toxins and formaldehyde when heated.
Durable.

How to choose?

The choice of a suitable insulation is a crucial stage in the arrangement of a living space on the attic floor.

There are several important factors to consider:

Accounting for climatic conditions. If the region is rampant very coldy in the cold season, the insulation must be chosen cellular or porous. Its structure allows warm air fill empty spaces and keep the heat in the room. It works like PVC profiles and double glazing on windows. The more layers of cells, the better material, so the thickness of the layer should be more than 1-2 cm.
For regions with high humidity the first place is the hydrophobicity of the material. All types of cotton wool are undesirable here, but derivatives of polyethylene and plastic will be just right. You can safely use polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam.
At in large numbers rainfall in winter, giving a load on the roof, lightweight materials are preferred. For example, foam and foil.

Accounting for indicators of moisture and fire resistance. Even if the climate does not abound in rain, protecting the insulation from moisture is very important. Wet material ceases to perform its functions, as its thermal conductivity changes, and gains weight.
As for fire safety, it is rather compliance with all norms of SNiP. Choosing fire-resistant material is not difficult. Most manufacturers add substances called flame retardants to organic raw materials for the manufacture of insulation. They prevent the spread of fire.

The ability of a material to hold its shape. Measured as modulus of elasticity and resistance to deformation. It depends on this whether it will create a monolithic reliable protection or will begin to sag and drafts and ventilated places will appear in the room. The undisputed leaders in this respect are not sheet, but sprayed materials.
Material coefficients for several characteristics: thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, sound insulation index.
The composition of the substance. For the arrangement of a living room in the attic, it is recommended to use environmentally friendly materials, without resins, formaldehydes and toxic substances. Various impregnations are acceptable if their presence meets the requirements of GOST.

The type of materials used in the roofing also matters.

Under the metal tile

Insulation of the attic ceiling under such material should be properly carried out with the help of a layer that is not afraid of moisture. Features of the structure and installation of metal tiles are such that water can get under it. The use of foam materials based on plastic or glass is optimal here, but if the choice fell on mineral wool, it is important to take care of good layer waterproofing.

It is also necessary to choose a material with an anti-condensation coating. After the condensation reaches a certain temperature, it will also turn into water that is dangerous for the insulating layer. The problem can be solved with the help of polypropylene films, geotextile coatings and super diffuse membranes.

The disadvantages of metal tiles include the fact that its unusual shape allows precipitation to accumulate between the layers of the coating, which is almost impossible to make completely airtight. This will help mitigate the damage as much as possible. high-quality ventilation under the roof. Natural in this case may not be enough, it is necessary to equip a forced one.

Such problems also apply to ceramic relief coating and slate sheets. All of them have the same shape, which does not allow you to fit the sheets closely.

Under corrugated board

It is less problematic in terms of leaks and condensation, as the sheets fit more tightly, and the joints are treated with sealant and paint. But the material has its own characteristics. Firstly, it is very cold and the insulation must be of high quality and impressive in thickness. Secondly, when it rains under a corrugated roof it is very noisy, you need a material with high sound absorption rates.

From the list suitable materials it is necessary to exclude thin foil sheets, fiberglass, cellulose insulation of the eco-type type. Their thickness and sound insulation performance are insufficient to ensure comfortable living in the attic under the corrugated roof.

For the attic above the bath

Along with the type of materials for the roof, the location of the attic must be taken into account: either it is located above all living quarters, or above a part of the house.

One of the problematic options is the attic above the bath. With such an arrangement, it is difficult to equip a living space in it. It is more suitable for a relaxation room, a small living room or a play corner, which is necessary after bath procedures.

The main difficulty in choosing materials lies in the microclimate of the room above the bath, which is different from the microclimate above the living rooms. The temperature and humidity conditions in it are unstable, and the possibility of condensation is very high. Of course, under such conditions, neither sawdust, nor cotton wool, nor ecological cellulose-based heaters are suitable. It requires hydrophobic materials such as expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam, foil coatings, good vapor barrier and forced ventilation.

Winter residence houses

There is no universal solution for winter attic insulation. It all depends on the climatic conditions and materials used in the construction of the house.

Long and harsh winters - a solid, porous, temperature-resistant insulation. Warm climate - any material suitable for the type of roof.

In private wooden house due to the properties of wood, a fairly thin insulation retains heat. Cellulose-based materials, on glass or plastic are also suitable. You can use foil with a minimum thickness.

AT brick houses with roofs made of corrugated board, tiles or slate, additional insulation in the form of air spaces is necessary. These can be dense porous materials and several layers between them. Warming frame house does not require much effort, since its design already provides for all the features of specific climatic conditions. Any moisture-resistant and fire-resistant materials are suitable here.

How to insulate with your own hands?

The technology for creating thermal insulation in the attic is also available to non-professionals. Experience is not the key to success installation work, and in correct selection material, consistent performance of actions to create a continuous insulated contour and accuracy.

The procedure is as follows:

Calculation permissible load and optimum material thickness.
The choice of materials and necessary tools(including safety equipment).
Preparation of the premises: cleaning, dedusting, processing wooden structures protective impregnations.
Lathing installation. This is an important and mandatory step that amateurs skip out of ignorance. The attic thermal insulation device without battens and counter battens is considered gross mistake. It is nailed from the inside over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe roof.
Laying a waterproofing film or diffuse membrane. The fastening should not be stretched, it is better to let the material sag a little. The sheets overlap each other (15-25 cm) and fasten with tape or foil. A gap of 20 to 50 cm is required between the membrane and the crate.
Heater installation. The methods are different, depending on the type of material and the location of the rafters. Roll material can be fastened with a slight overlap and fixed with tape or a stapler. Sheet insulation for finishing the roof and walls is laid close, taking into account a slight shrinkage in the future. The junction is made as close as possible, the seams are processed with adhesive tape. You can use screws and nails for very dense materials.

It is important to join well in the corners of the gable and in such difficult areas as the ridge, valley, overhangs. For this, small parts of the material are used, separated by hand.

Particular attention is paid to the contour of the windows. The room will remain cold if warm air escapes through the cracks near the window.

The sequence is as follows: insulation of the roof, ceilings, gable, partitions, walls. The floor can be insulated both before and after.

Floor insulation is more variable, since it is less affected by precipitation, winds and frosts.

It can be dry backfill, and sawdust, and mineral wool:

Installation of vapor barrier. It is overlapped, like a membrane, fixed in various ways. As a rule, there is a line on the material that marks the width of the joint between two sheets.
Lathing if necessary.
Decorative finish.

Common mistakes

The correct thermal cake for roof insulation is mounted in compliance with many nuances.

Non-professionals often make the same mistakes that affect the quality of attic thermal insulation:

lack of ventilation gap from the ceiling to the membrane. As a result, the insulation freezes and ceases to operate;
strong sagging of the membrane - this reduces the gap required for ventilation and leads to the formation of condensate;
attempts to save on insulating materials, laying them without the necessary joints, as a result of which gaps form and heat escapes outside, warming the roof, and not the room;

tamping the material to such an extent that it warps and crumples, losing its properties;
unlined cornices - this leads to the fact that precipitation gets free access to the insulation and saturates it with moisture;
lack of ventilation;
lack of adhesive tape or tape at the joints of the sheet material.

Use hard and dense materials or spraying. They are better fixed and do not deform in the process.
Increasing the distance between the attic ceiling and the top of the ridge will create an "air cushion" and improve the quality of the warm contour.
It is better to leave a gap for ventilation not only between the crate and the membrane, but also between the membrane and the insulation.

The attic is not just a place to store unnecessary things. If it is properly equipped, you will get a separate living room. Therefore, the repair of the attic, and especially its insulation, is of interest to many homeowners.

Insulation of the space under the roof is the main condition for comfortable living, and it is with it that the arrangement of this territory should begin. Before proceeding with the repair work, you need to figure out which material is better to choose in order to insulate the attic, what to pay close attention to.

Warming the attic from the inside, if the roof is already covered: preparing the room

Attic insulation from the inside

Not every attic can be called an attic. This type of attic is distinguished by a roof with a slope. In such a room, the height to the ceiling should not be less than 2.5 meters.

Important! When carrying out installation work, special attention should be paid to the insulation of windows.

Making an attic and equipping it for a full-fledged living space is a very tempting idea, for the implementation of which the owners of buildings are actively accepted.

Before buying a material, you should know what properties a heater should have:

low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
minimum level of water absorption;
security;
incombustibility;
no shrinkage.

All these points are important to consider when choosing a heater for your attic. But the most significant is insulation from heat loss and waterproofing.

The attic is located under the roof and therefore is a rather cold room. A large temperature difference outside the building and in the attic space itself often leads to the accumulation of condensate. Moisture has a negative effect on building and finishing materials, leading to their deterioration and destruction.

The better to insulate the attic floor in a private house

There are a lot of building materials, including for the internal use of any premises. To know what kind of insulation is best to insulate the attic, taking into account the design features of a particular building, as well as climatic conditions in the habitat.

Styrofoam

Foam insulation

This is one of the most popular insulating materials, which has won the love of builders and repairmen due to its low price.

The cost of foam plastic is its main advantage, but far from the only one:

This material is highly moisture resistant, it does not absorb water. If it is additionally coated with a special impregnation, then the drops will simply flow down it.
Lightness is another advantage of foam. It is easy to transport, convenient to work. It does not create any additional load on the roof, load-bearing structures.
Another "plus" of the material is its excellent thermal insulation properties, so it is suitable as a heater for the attic.
The material is easy to cut with improvised means in any direction. It will not be difficult to fasten its sheets. A person without building skills can handle the laying of foam plastic. This is not at all capricious material.

But before you opt for this material, you should know what density of canvases is needed to complete the task. After all, the comfort of the room depends on it.

mineral wool

Warming with mineral wool

Another type of popular and worthy means for thermal insulation is mineral wool. She looks a bit like medical cotton due to the presence of fibers in the fabric structure. Mineral wool is sold in rolls, so it will not be difficult to transport it and work with the material.

This is a great attic insulation. It does not pass heat and practically does not absorb moisture. This combination of characteristics makes it popular in construction. Even if the mineral wool gets wet, it will dry very quickly, without spoiling at all.

This material belongs to the class of environmentally friendly, it is safe. It doesn't matter what the roof is covered with and how much it heats up in summer, there will be no problems with mineral wool. Moreover, mice do not gnaw it, bugs do not start in it. This mineral wool compares favorably with polystyrene. The fibrous material also blocks sound.

Quite convenient. The material has elasticity, although it seems fibrous, soft. It will hold well between the rafters if the sheets are fixed correctly.

Ecowool

Ecowool insulation

Ecowool is not layers, but a crushed substance. It tightly blows all the cracks, small holes, as well as the space between the ceiling and the rafters. It is unlikely that it will be possible to do this yourself, because special equipment is needed for blowing out. Roof insulation with ecowool expensive pleasure. But this type of insulation has its advantages: the insulation effect is high and there is not a single draft in the room.

The basis of ecowool are natural components: paper, close to wood in characteristics, occupies 80% of its composition. Despite this, the material saves heat well and is in no way inferior in efficiency to synthetic insulation.

Ecowool also includes borax. It is an antiseptic that fights various fungi and microorganisms, and of natural origin. Therefore, when insulating with such a tool, you should not worry about the possible appearance of fungus or mold; with borax as part of ecowool, this will not be allowed.

Ecowool insulation requires a fairly thin layer, but this is enough to provide high thermal insulation and block noise. The material will last a good ten years without deteriorating its characteristics. With all this in mind, the high price of ecowool is fully justified by its properties and durability.

polyurethane foam

Insulation with polyurethane foam

The most progressive and reliable material for warming a cold attic and other rooms is polyurethane foam. It surpasses in its properties all the above listed heaters. It compares favorably with the fact that during installation it does not give any gaps, joints, cracks through which cold air flows into the living room. It is one of the most durable materials correct styling it will serve the house for at least 30 years.

This material does not shrink, and even in the presence of wooden roof near the house, which is characterized by deformation over time. Polyurethane foam has a solid structure, which ensures its complete moisture resistance. Therefore, when insulating with this material, there is no need to additionally mount a layer for insulation from steam and moisture.

With all these advantages, polyurethane foam has one significant disadvantage, due to which it is not always used to insulate residential premises from the inside. To apply this substance, a special rather expensive technique is required. Buy it yourself for construction works does not make sense, it is easier and cheaper to rent.

The application of a heat-insulating layer of polyurethane foam should be entrusted to a person who has experience with this material. After all, this is not very simple and requires some skill. It is not possible to insulate the attic yourself with high quality.

Styrofoam

Extruded polystyrene foam insulation

No less popular is the use of expanded polystyrene. This is a unique material that has a number of positive aspects. Insulation of any attic with extruded polystyrene foam can be done independently. The material is quite light and fits perfectly on any surface.

With proper installation, the product will reliably protect the room from the cold and will last for decades. In order to insulate the attic of a private house with polystyrene foam at the highest level, you just need to follow the basic rules of installation and preparation.

How to carry out insulation work?

Effective insulation attic

Each heater has its own nuances, features and installation rules. It should be installed according to the manufacturer's recommendations. But there are also general rules for the insulation process, which do not depend on the substance chosen for insulation. Several mandatory steps are always present in them.

The first layer is mounted material for waterproofing. It provides protection against destruction due to moisture penetration. A special film must be overlapped, and with a good overlap of one layer on another at least 10-15 cm. A construction stapler will reliably help to fix the material. At the junction of the film, it can be further strengthened with adhesive tape.

If the project provides for and there is a need for this, then the crate is stuffed. Ordinary wooden slats are suitable, their width can be from 8 to 10 cm. The slats are fixed to the rafters, in strictly parallel rows. The distance between the rails is about half a meter. Each component of the crate must be checked using the building level, otherwise it will not be possible to avoid the appearance of flaws and flaws in the roof during its further operation.

Next comes the turn of the actual heat-insulating substance. It is mounted on a crate or rafters, the method of attachment depends on the type and characteristics of the material. If it is presented in the form of rolls (for example, mineral wool), then it is simply cut into strips of the required size so as to be distributed between the rafters.

Important! The thickness of the insulation used for the attic floor should match the width of the log.

The ratio of the thickness of the material and space must be taken into account, first of all, when insulating the attic with mineral wool, followed by the installation of drywall. In this embodiment, the entire space must be filled with insulating material.

This pie-like multi-layer construction is completed by a layer of protective film material against steam. In its role, plastic film is perfect, you can also use glassine or roofing material. When laying a vapor barrier, in the same way as when installing a film for waterproofing, the film is overlapped. But they fix it not with a stapler, but due to wooden slats of small thickness. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. The joints are isolated by gluing with tape.

Now it remains to complete the finish coat. It is attached directly to the bars or to the crate. At this stage, you should consider the weight decorative elements. If rather weighty materials are chosen, then for their reliable fastening it will be necessary to install an additional frame, for example, from a metal profile.

As additional thermal insulation for the attic floor great option is isospan FS, FD, FX for attic flooring. All types have not only the functions of vapor barrier, but also combine the effect of reflection of thermal infrared radiation.

The main mistakes made in the process of attic insulation

Attic insulation scheme

In order for the insulation work carried out on your own to really please, you must follow the basic rules for their implementation. The key point is the laying of a waterproofing layer, because without it, all materials that can get wet and dry lead to the penetration of cold into the room.

To avoid negative consequences, or at least minimize them, you should heed the advice of experts:

Before starting work on the insulation of the attic, you need to check the angle of the roof. If it is less than 13 degrees, then precipitation will begin to accumulate on such a roof - snow and rainwater. Stagnation of moisture will provoke the appearance of rusty spots, cracks, crevices, moisture seepage. These phenomena will spoil the insulation.
Warming the walls of the attic and the roof itself with special insulating compounds is an important part of the work, but one should not be limited to this. It is equally important to carry out thermal insulation of windows, preferably according to the Swedish scheme. The ideal option is to entrust this to specialists, then there will be no leaks. And certainly you should not deal with the insulation of windows on your own, if they are not located strictly vertically, but at an angle.
We should not forget that any material for thermal insulation requires ventilation. It is also important to ensure that it can dry out in case of moisture. In order for air to circulate, you will need to leave a gap of a couple of centimeters between the insulation layer and the roof.
It is required to observe the sequence and number of layers for isolation from steam and water, none of them must be skipped.
If the height of the rafters is not enough due to the impressive layer of heat-insulating material, it is necessary to increase it by mounting special rails. It is quite possible to do it yourself.

Such simple but important tips can help with insulation work, ensure their high quality, the absence of errors and miscalculations that will have to be corrected and redone. If you are not sure about own forces, have sufficient experience repair work, it is best to invite a professional to equip the attic. His services will not be cheap, but the result will be excellent.