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Roof soft roof installation with insulation. Do-it-yourself soft roof: preparation and installation of a soft roof. What materials are suitable for arranging a soft roof

The construction of residential buildings with a wooden frame has a long history - in particular, the construction of such houses in the countries of Southeast Asia, North America and Scandinavia is widespread. Recently, they have become popular in the CIS countries. This is associated with the emergence of modern heaters and various wall cladding materials.

The variety of technologies for the construction of frame dwellings, which are on the market, is quite large. This is due to the fact that such technology is characterized by various kinds of engineering solutions and it is easily adaptable to any need.

Do-it-yourself construction of wooden frame houses

Frame dwellings are undoubtedly considered the most reliable, economical, warm and energy efficient of all known in our time.

This technology requires developers to carefully study, but, alas, not everyone treats it with the proper level of responsibility to comply with the requirements for the construction of frame structures. It is often violated, due to a bias in favor of the conveniences of the builders, and sometimes simply because they have not studied it enough.

Construction frame house on your own is a simple and quite inexpensive task. Here you do not need to have special knowledge or skills, you do not need to recruit a team of builders. It will be sufficient to have a high-quality detailed design, 1-2 assistants and skills in using conventional tools at a general level.

Mounting

The construction process is quite simple. Pre-prepared elements of the future home are brought to the site. Due to the ease of construction, this method does not require the use of expensive equipment.

If the base for the frame house is ready, the work is carried out in the following order:

  • Installation and fastening of the lower trim. The beam is fixed with anchors directly to the foundation;
  • Installation of the floor, waterproofing is carried out in advance, then floor SIPs are laid - panels up to 20 cm thick on the base tape, subject to the technology that the span cannot be more than 5-6 m;
  • An angle is set, after which wall panels are installed and fixed;
  • Load-bearing walls are installed;
  • Overlapping is put;
  • The roof system is installed and the required finishing work is carried out.

The construction of frame dwellings is associated with the use of frame structures made of wood and metal. The metal frame is much more expensive, which affects its popularity. The wooden frame is predominantly made from oak wood.

Naturally, it is logical to mount the insulation in the gap between the walls. If you do not unfasten the house with braces, external loads will contribute to the occurrence of distortions and further destruction. The frame from the outside is sheathed with boards. It should be remembered that wood swells or cracks during the year due to the influence of natural factors.

Modern technologies

The modernized technologies for the construction of skeletons are superior to brick and concrete houses in indicators such as: reliability, strength and durability.

  • Prefabricated and rather low cost of the construction process.
  • Small chance of home damage from design errors or ground features. The heavy weight of stone walls contributes to their destructive effect.
  • All season finishing works.
  • Relative lightness of structures.
  • Fire resistance. Using new non-flammable materials, frame structures have a higher level of fire safety than concrete or stone ones.
  • « Breathable room. With proper planning of such a building, using modern vapor-permeable materials for the outer skin and high-quality insulation, it is permissible to create vapor-permeable walls.

Knots of a wooden frame house

There are nodes of floor systems, roofs and walls. They are divided into sub-nodes.

The lower harness knot is the place where the strapping bars are fastened to the base. Joints are made by using bolts, clamps or other means.

Another structural unit of the lower trim is the joint of the bars with each other in the corner.

In the process of creating a frame dwelling, corner vertical supports are first placed, followed by intermediate ones. Here are the following nodes: places of docking of vertical racks in the corners of the upper and lower strappings and docking of racks with strapping beams.

The bars of the upper strapping are fixed like the bars of the bottom.

The truss system includes:

  • Knot supporting the rafters on the ridge run;
  • Knot supporting the rafters on the Mauerlat;
  • Docking of rafters with a crossbar and other struts;
  • Docking of rafters with counter-lattice bars;
  • Docking of the crate and counter-crate.

Foundation for a frame house

The base of the frame structure can be anything.

The main thing is that the structure itself is built in accordance with the soil soil where the dwelling is located and has the necessary strength.

If a strip base is used, then it should be remembered that the central partitions “stand” on the foundation strip, and are not in a “hanging state”.

Similarly, with a columnar base. The design of the house should take place so that the joining of the partition and the wall is on the support, but not along the gaps.

The frame of a frame house

The frame of the dwelling is made of any material: metal, lightweight wood, solid wood, etc.

At the time of choosing the material and design of the frame, one should be guided by the strength of the latter, its service life, the number of cold bridges, and the fact how real independent construction is.

The connection of the base of the frame with the foundation must have the necessary strength. Wood for the production of the frame must be dry and of sufficient quality. Also, do not save on processing. All elements of the frame must be planed before installation. Then all the components of wood must be impregnated with special compounds that prevent the process of decay and increase fire resistance. It is worth remembering that dry wood changes its geometry when used.

If the project is completed successfully and of high quality construction works, then such a frame will be strong enough and durable.

Log and floor device

The most popular option for installing the floor is considered to be the installation of the floor on the logs. Although the process itself seems confusing, it is quite possible for an amateur. To properly lay it, you need to carefully understand all the nuances.

Between the pillars and lags it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing. The thickness of the log reaches from 4 to 6 cm. The distance from the ground to the floor should be more than 15-20 cm, and the underside of the boards must be treated with an antiseptic. The joists are attached to the beams. It is optimal to fasten them to the sides of the beams. Then there is no need to use linings.

The device of a wooden floor on logs is considered the most popular and durable. This floor is easy to repair. It is necessary to carefully monitor and verify the correct installation of the log, in which case the design will be strong and durable.

Installation of house frame racks

In the process of building frame housing, corner vertical posts are first installed, and then intermediate ones. To fix the vertical racks, holes are made in the corners. Fasteners for intermediate racks are made in the same manner.

Vertical supports are reinforced with special brackets. Making them is easy enough. Reinforcement 0.5 m in length is sharpened at both ends and bends with the letter "P". Then they are driven into vertical and horizontal beams. They greatly strengthen the frame. It is possible to make them in the forge, but their absence will not be a disadvantage.

When installing vertical bars, you need to carefully check the diagonal of the future wall. For these purposes, the level and twine is quite enough.

Attachment of the upper trim bar

At the corners, the bars of the upper trim are connected by cutting. They are fixed in the same way as the bottom bars. They are connected at the corners and with the pillars of the building.

  • Corner fixings: there are no characteristics. Mounted with wooden screws.
  • Fastening by punching: before putting the bars on vertical supports, grooves are made in them for each rack. It is necessary that they are located clearly vertically in relation to the grooves of the lower trim. Only then will the vertical supports be truly vertical.

Roof of a frame house

  • Creation of a rafter system;
  • Installation of a heater;
  • Arrangement of battens and counter battens;
  • Fastening material for the roof and the final components of the structure.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house

Properly done insulation will keep the home from losing heat in cold period and contribute to the creation of comfort and coziness indoors.

Recently, mineral insulation has become very popular. Basalt wool is produced in the form of a fibrous substance as a dense slab. No less popular insulation, consisting of glass fibers. The latter are extremely simple and easy to install. Thanks to the air gaps, fiberglass effectively insulates sound and heat.

The very technology of warming a frame dwelling is the same for all materials. In the process of choosing a heater, it is important to build on its cost. At the same time, it is not recommended to save on the insulation of environmentally friendly housing. The inflated cost of insulation will repeatedly pay off with the saved heat energy.

OSB frame house wall cladding

OSB production technology is much more advanced than in the manufacture of chipboard. In this regard, they have greater resistance to moisture and mechanical stress. For sheathing a frame building, OSB is considered the most promising material. The main disadvantage is the high cost of the plate.

The lower trim is completely covered with OSB sheet.

OSB boards are fixed if:

  • In the intermediate section - a step of 30 cm.
  • At the joints of the plates - a step of 15 cm.
  • On the outer edge - a step of 10 cm.
  • From the edge of the plate to the fastener, the distance is 0.8-1 cm.
  • Among the plates, the gap is 0.5 cm.
  • A self-tapping screw or nail enters the support by 4-5 cm.

Wind protection and waterproofing of the walls of a frame house

and waterproofing are carried out by a superdiffusion membrane. It is often advised, in addition to the membrane, to use a waterproofing film and polyethylene. But these materials have poor vapor permeability. In this regard, the film does not guarantee the necessary removal of moisture from the insulation, which can lead to various negative consequences.

The membrane is nailed to the frame supports, tightly against the insulation. After the crate, thanks to it, a gap is made. Then stitching.

This scheme is used:

  • in the process of plastering on the lining;
  • if the lining with a board turns into a fine finish;
  • when facing with siding on top of OSB, LSU, DSP, boards.

The rough lining is nailed to the frame supports. On top - a membrane, tightly, without gaps. After, the siding is fixed along the crate.

Vapor barrier of the internal walls of the frame house

The installation technology of penofol is extremely simple. It requires a construction stapler. The vapor barrier is mounted horizontally to save time and money. An overlap of approximately 5 cm is performed.

Penofol is fixed with foil outward to reflect the heat radiation of the room. Moreover, this position reduces the risk of condensation. When the penofol is carefully fixed, the entire structure of the walls is sheathed with boards.

Insulation of walls and other components of the dwelling on its own is a fairly simple and relatively cheap process, with correct selection thermal insulation and study of the technology of the construction process.

Internal lining of the walls of a frame house

To carry out the internal lining of the walls of the building, drywall or OSB is used. Due to the irregularities of the frame supports, the drywall will take their shape. As a result, drywall will have to do more layers of alignment. OSB boards are much stiffer and they will have to be leveled less.

Often, internal sewing is done using. When these panels are not laminated, they must be applied carefully as they do not tolerate moisture. They are not advised to use in the kitchen, in the bathroom, in the bathroom.

Ceiling device

The ceiling is one of the most important structures in a building. It should be approached very carefully. Usually, the heat goes up and if the ceiling is designed without going into all the details, then the heat loss will be quite large and this may affect the funds for its repair.

To equip the attic floor you will need:

  • edged board up to 3 cm thick;
  • hydro-vapor barrier;
  • construction foam;
  • insulation;
  • nails;
  • Fiberboard or drywall;
  • pegamine or roofing material;
  • croaker.

Common construction mistakes

The most common mistakes that occur during the construction process:

  • Poor frame reinforcement;
  • The use of poor quality wood;
  • Insufficient steam and waterproofing;
  • Wrong step when installing vertical supports;
  • Weak fastening of vertical supports.

tree care mistakes

When building a frame dwelling, you should not make mistakes on your own.

Often, poorly dried wood is used to build a structure. This is a gross oversight. When a tree dries, its shape changes. As a result, the building may squint, nails or screws may be uprooted. The house, insulation, and decoration will also be destroyed.

Wood must be carefully looked after to avoid defects and early damage, which is caused by mechanical stress, as well as the influence of natural factors.

  • Having started construction work, it is worth determining its purpose. Will it be temporary housing, or a room where permanent residence.
  • It is reasonable to use all frame buildings for low-rise construction. Build with my own hands frame building more than 2 floors is not recommended.
  • For creating wooden frame, it is more expedient to use an oak tree.
  • Metal fasteners are not recommended. since the tree rots strongly, when interacting with metal, naturally, the connection weakens at the junction and the building can loosen.
  • Before erecting walls, you need to find a leveled and dry surface. for installation, so that there is no distortion of the walls.
  • All load-bearing structures, walls and floors must be built from the same material, otherwise, there is a risk of the building tilting.

Now extremely popular frame technology housing construction. This is quite natural, since the design of the frame house is lightweight, and, hence, does not require a reinforced base.

The technology of construction of rapidly erected buildings is very popular. This topic is constantly discussed on construction forums and causes a lot of controversy. Advantages and disadvantages frame houses will help to form a general idea of ​​the method, to get acquainted with the stages of the construction of objects.

Based on the experience of European countries, there is no doubt that soon frame-panel houses will become leaders in low-rise construction. Compared to traditional building systems, the technology has its advantages, the main of which is economy. The financial aspect is one of the stimulating factors for acquiring your own housing. The cost of 1 sq. m less than one and a half times foam concrete blocks, 2.4 brick walls, 1.4 times the beam.

The frame-panel constructor is assembled by the efforts of 4 people in 1.5 months. According to this principle, it is permissible to build an object of any complexity up to 3 floors. In addition, building a frame house with your own hands will save on the foundation, equipment, and a team of workers.

The disadvantages include:

  1. Moisture absorption.
  2. Risk of fire.
  3. Bad ventilation.
  4. Sensitivity to vibration.
  5. fragility.

There was an erroneous opinion that only brick, panel or wooden walls keep warm well. However, according to the current thermal protection standards, modern buildings in some regions do not meet standard requirements. Canadian houses with walls of 150 mm in terms of thermal protection coefficient are equivalent to double block masonry and are quite suitable for habitation. In the cold, when the heating is turned off, the normal temperature is kept in the rooms for a long time.

Temporary or permanent residence determines the thickness of the frame house. If housing is planned for a seasonal stay, there is no need to purchase expensive insulation. Accordingly, the thickness of the walls will be somewhat less. For a comfortable microclimate, a substrate of 10-15 cm is enough. If we are talking about permanent housing, the material is laid in a thick layer - more than 15 cm. In the end, the wall is 20 cm without taking into account the outer and inner skins.

How to correctly calculate the thickness of the frame house

For this purpose, there is a special table with indicators for each region. Insert into the formula:

  • insulation thickness parameters;
  • thermal conductivity coefficient of the material;
  • calculate the parameter.

You can make calculations yourself using our construction calculators.

When ordering a house kit at the factory, calculations are performed on the spot, and plates with an increased margin of safety are offered to the customer. Many people think that if they are thick, the insulation does not need to be laid. This is a misconception - without a quality substrate, the cost of a heating resource increases significantly. The walls of the frame building should resemble layered cake. Thanks to the air cushion between them, even in cold weather, the house remains warm.

Do-it-yourself frame house is built using Finnish or Canadian technologies. The process algorithm is the same, and consists of several stages:

  1. Purchases of materials.
  2. Foundation pours.
  3. The lower binding of the foundation.
  4. Building walls, roofs.
  5. Installation of windows and doors.
  6. Wall cladding and insulation.
  7. Interior decoration.

In order to avoid heat loss and ensure good ventilation, it is important to adhere to an adapted technology during the construction of the facility.

How to build a frame house: pouring the foundation

The prefabricated structure is light, so it makes no sense to build a powerful base. Depending on the type of soil and the number of storeys of the building, choose between:

  • columnar;

How to make harness and lags

Next, mount the transverse logs. Boards with a section of 150 x 50 mm, turned on their sides, with a step of 40 cm with oblique nails of 9 cm, are nailed to the end and lower beam on the left and right. If they are long, but a transverse beam is laid, jumpers 45 cm long are stuffed on top.

flooring

After the installation of the crate between the cells, a waterproofing film is laid, and a heater is placed on it. A budget option- expanded polystyrene from 15 kg / m3 with a thickness of 150 mm. The insulation is cut with a hacksaw, laid in 2 layers. The material is distributed so that the edges of the canvases of the second row do not coincide with the first, otherwise the sheets will move. To fix the foam at the bottom of the lattice around the perimeter, a cutting beam of 50 x 50 mm is stuffed. The seams are blown with mounting foam.

The material is covered with a vapor barrier membrane, then the flooring is constructed. For the subfloor choose plywood, grooved boards or cheap OSB-3 boards. Cloths are covered across the lattice. For reliability, the sheets are placed in a checkerboard pattern or perpendicular to the lags.

The flooring is fixed to the logs with 50 mm self-tapping screws or nailed nails. First, glue is applied to the back of the sheets, then they are nailed every 15 cm along the edge and in 30 cm increments in the middle. Between the segments on all sides leave a gap of 3 mm.

Now for the construction of walls you need a frame: wooden or steel. A popular solution is oak timber, larch or other wood with a dense structure. Such designs are cheaper than metal counterparts by a third. Prior to installation, they are planed, treated with impregnations from fire, decay, and pests.

Installation of vertical racks

How to build frame house to live in it for a long time without repair? Follow the sequence of stages and take into account all construction nuances. First of all, it concerns the fastening of parts. When erecting the skeleton, corner posts are first installed. If dowels are selected for the connection, they recede from the edges up to 10 cm, holes are made at the end 1 cm longer than the dowel length, and the beam is vertically fixed.


Now choose the method of fastening the intermediate longitudinal racks. The first is fixation to the harness with a partial or full cut, or connection with galvanized corners. The second method is simpler and more reliable, although it increases the cost of the project.

The principle of installing the upper bars is similar to the installation of the lower trim. Horizontal structures are joined in the corners with vertical posts, connected with 2 nails and corners.

How to build walls

How to make a frame house: first assemble the spans on the ground, then raise it up or assemble it on the spot? Usually they are ready-made attached to the lower base. The first span is nailed to the floor and supported with jibs, the second is connected to the post of the first, and so on along the perimeter.

Regardless of the principle of connecting the racks, they are strengthened with temporary braces. It reinforces bottom harness until the installation of permanent supports, giving the frame rigidity and resistance to wind loads. After installation of all structures:

  • the backbone is measured with a plumb line and level;
  • temporary supports are removed;
  • 2 strips are screwed to each support at the top and bottom.

Windows, doors

Door and window openings are installed in places according to the project. First, racks are fixed on the sides of the niches, then jumpers at the top and bottom. Internal partitions are mounted in the same way as the frame, tied with boards for rigidity.

Ceiling

The process consists of several stages:

  1. Grooves for beams are cut in the beam.
  2. Transverse structures are inserted into the openings, nailed, steel corners are screwed.
  3. Inside, supports are installed along the partitions, connected to the upper and lower bars.
  4. A ceiling shield is laid from tongue-and-groove boards.
  5. A vapor barrier layer is laid, a heater and a waterproofing membrane are laid on top.
  6. Build a rough floor.

Roof

For the device, choose: a mansard, multi-gable, single-pitched or multi-pitched roof with a slope of 10 °. To calculate the rafters and step lathing, construction tables or ours are used.

  1. The rafters are assembled from the bottom of the timber. To do this, 2 boards are spliced ​​together at the top at an angle, then lifted into place.
  2. First, rafter pairs are installed on gables with an overhang of 400-500 mm.
  3. The slope of the ramp is adjusted, the structures are mounted to the upper harness.
  4. The remaining parts of the system are installed in increments of 700 mm.
  5. Then they are integrated with a ridge bar, which serves as a support for the upper rafters, and the paws are fixed to the floor.
  6. They build a solid or rare crate with a section of 25 x 30 cm, fix it on the rafters with side counters. The step of the bars is the same as that of the rafters.

A vapor barrier membrane is fastened to the inside of the rafter legs with a stapler. The joints are sealed with adhesive tape, the space between the bars is filled with heat-insulating plates, then with a diffuse film. At the final stage, the roof is laid. The process algorithm is clearly shown in the picture.

Wall insulation

Choose a protective material with a thickness of 50 mm: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool or polystyrene.

  1. Lay mats between the vertical racks of the skeleton. With double flooring, the joints of the canvases should not coincide. To protect against moisture from the outside, waterproofing is laid.
  2. Then a crate is stuffed from thin laths corresponding to the thickness of the insulation. This will ensure air movement.
  3. From the side of the rooms, the vapor barrier is stretched, fixed with a stapler. The walls are lined with thick plywood, gypsum fiber sheets or clapboard. The base for finishing with drywall is ready.
  4. Walls are sheathed outside finishing material: block house, siding, lining.

It remains to ennoble the house inside and celebrate the housewarming. There are a lot of nuances in the construction of prefabricated frame-panel houses. Experience and knowledge will come along the way.

Full video how to build a frame house

As roofing any waterproof material can be used. But it is also important that they are resistant to temperature extremes, ultraviolet radiation and mechanical damage. All these characteristics are soft shingles.

In the process of work, the following scheme of a soft roof roof is used. First, the rafters are installed and the vapor barrier is laid, then the insulation layer is placed, it is waterproofed, and at the end the roofing is laid directly.



soft roof - scheme

Preparatory steps: installation of rafters and insulation

To install a soft roof with your own hands, you must first prepare basis. First, a secure roof structure. For her, they take a bar with a section of 15x5 cm. rafters placed at a distance of about sixty centimeters. The configuration of the roof depends on how they are located. The advantage of soft tiles is the possibility of laying them on a roof with any slope and other features. After installation truss system, all wooden parts must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

High-quality arrangement of a roof from a soft roof requires mandatory use vapor barrier. The material is laid parallel to the eaves, from above, starting from the ridge, and moving down.




installation of a soft roof instruction. A photo

Individual strips are laid with an overlap of ten or fifteen centimeters. Joints are insulated with foil adhesive tape. Attach the vapor barrier to the rafters with a construction stapler.

The required step is warming soft roof. Plates are used as insulation mineral wool. They are placed on the outside in two layers, having previously completed the rough sheathing of the rafters from the side of the attic.

The first layer is laid in the space between the rafters. The insulation is laid perpendicular to the line of the eaves. The thickness of the first layer of mineral wool is about fifteen centimeters, which corresponds to the dimensions of the rafters.

installation of a soft roof. A photo

In order for the insulation of a soft roof to be as effective as possible, a second layer of mineral wool is required. For its installation, a counter-beam is fixed at a distance of sixty centimeters from each other. The beam is taken with a section of 5x5 centimeters. Position it in such a way that the second layer of mineral wool is laid parallel to the eaves. Such insulation of a soft roof covers almost all cold bridges.


The heater is covered vapor diffusion membrane. It releases steam from the material, but does not allow moisture to penetrate into it. The membrane is laid parallel to the eaves and fixed with a construction stapler. At the joints, overlaps of ten centimeters or a little more are made, and then they are glued with self-adhesive tape.


soft roof installation step-by-step instruction. A photo


Do-it-yourself soft roofing

If we consider the scheme of the roof device from a soft roof, then we can pay attention to the presence ventilation gap between the steam vent membrane and the base of the roof. Just five centimeters is enough for the air to circulate freely.

Another layer of counter-beam helps to create a ventilation layer, which is already parallel to the rafters. Such a roof device made of soft roofing is the most optimal.

As a counter beam, elements with a cross section of 5x5 cm are used, placing them with a distance of 30 cm. The bars are not laid back to back, but breaks are made by about five centimeters.

Do-it-yourself installation of a soft roof with your own hands is performed as follows.

On the crate of the counter beam is fixed OSB boards with moisture resistance. It is required to leave gaps of approximately four millimeters between individual sheets. Differences in height should not exceed two millimeters.


In the process of installing a soft roof, be sure to take care of the installation drainage system . Immediately after attachment OSB boards hooks should be installed that will hold the gutter. Then the installation of the gutter and all other parts of the drain, including funnels and pipes, is carried out.


roof soft roof installation. A photo





do-it-yourself soft roof A photo

Further, the installation of a soft roof with your own hands involves laying on the surface wood-based waterproofing material. It is placed with overlapping seams. Longitudinal overlaps should be at least ten centimeters, and transverse - twenty. All seams are additionally sealed. For this they are processed bituminous mastic.






To perform installation shingles, carry out the marking of the roof. Then the material is laid and fixed with sharp nails with a galvanized surface. Begin the installation of flexible tiles from the eaves. It is laid in rows, rising towards the ridge.








The next step in the installation of a soft roof is laying ridge elements. In order for the individual elements of the flexible tile to lie tightly, not to be blown up by the wind, they are fixed with the help of bituminous materials.


Completion of installation of shingles closing joints and careful isolation. Be sure to close the slats where the roof adjoins the pipe, walls or other elements. Also, at the end of the installation of a soft roof, all additional work is carried out. Such as the installation of skylights, snow retainers, spotlights on cornice suspensions and other things.


Installation of a soft roof video instruction

Video installation of a soft roof

Photo of a roof with a soft roof

The relative ease of installation of flexible tiles is not the only plus of such a roofing. It should also be noted the variety of appearance.

The gray-blue roof of the house perfectly emphasizes the brick color of its walls. The shape of the individual elements of the tile is hexagonal, which creates an interesting pattern and visual effect. Roofing looks like scales. Uneven color enlivens the surface and makes it voluminous.

Soft roof photo

Light brown roofing is distinguished by discreet neutrality. It does not draw attention to itself, but emphasizes the beauty of the building itself and the roof of a complex shape with many planes. The elements of the tiles are square, which echoes the stone wall, which is visible on the right side.

Soft roof photo

The dark brown material with rectangular elements looks austere, but it makes the complex shape of the roof more attractive. Dark color sets off the light walls of the house and is supported by other brown elements on the facade of the house.

Soft roof photo

The roof is covered with soft hexagonal tiles. The presence of a color transition and lighter spots makes the roof surface visually more interesting. It is quite dark and therefore does not merge with the rest of the building.

The simplicity of the form of this flexible tile is balanced interesting combination matte and textured surfaces. A roof with such a coating will look strict, but at the same time elegant. It will decorate any home with the appropriate color scheme.

Do-it-yourself soft roof with a step-by-step photo: Instructions for action In this article you will find instructions for step by step photos and video tips on how to make soft roof with their own hands on the example of the roof of Onduvilla.

2017-08-18T16:10:38+03:00

In this article you will find instructions with step-by-step photos and video tips on how to make a soft roof with your own hands using the example of a roof.

Preparatory stage

Installation of a soft roof begins with the arrangement of a new or repair of an existing crate:

1. After installing the truss system inner part the roof is covered with a vapor barrier film, which is overlapped and fixed with bars.

2. Insulation plates are located between the rafters. Their thickness, density and number of layers are determined by the architectural features of the roof and the climate of the region.

3. From the outside, the insulation is closed with a superdiffusion membrane. On top of this layer, bars of the counter-lattice are installed - they are attached along the rafters, create the necessary ventilation gap and form an additional frame for OSB or plywood.

4. Finishing stage - installation of the crate. Its type depends on the slope of the roof. At 9-20 degrees, it is necessary to mount a solid base under a soft roof made of moisture-resistant plywood FSF, OSB-3, TsSP, boards. At 20 degrees and above, a sparse base is allowed from a board with a thickness of at least 25 cm or a bar with a thickness of at least 50 cm. The two extreme elements of the crate are mounted with a reduced gap of 30 cm, the rest - with a step of 32 cm.

5. In the case of a continuous crate, another layer appears roofing cake- rolled bituminous waterproofing is laid over the entire surface.

Important! This manual gives the maximum allowable batten spacing. If possible, it is better to make a more frequent or continuous crate.

Do-it-yourself installation of a soft roof

Before starting installation, be sure to check whether the roof slopes are even. If there are deviations, it is necessary to draw a strictly vertical line - you will be guided by it when centering the sheets.

When carrying out work, do not stretch the sheets by more than 10 mm and follow the instructions with step-by-step photos exactly.

Stage 1

Laying must begin on the side of the roof opposite to the prevailing winds. Mark the overhang of the first row with a stretched rope. Optimal length is 3.5-5 cm. Secure the first strip by driving nails into upper part waves strictly at an angle of 90 degrees.

Follow a certain order of hammering.

Use a special filler to protect the cornice gaps from birds, snow drifts and debris. If necessary, the holes are easily pressed through with an improvised tool of a suitable diameter.

Stage 2

Lay the second row, starting with half a sheet. At the corner joint there should be 3, not 4 overlaps - otherwise, deformation of the roof is possible. Drive in nails, fixing both sheets at the same time. Install the following blades in the sequence shown in the figure. Make sure the locks match. For marking sheets, you can use an ordinary colored pencil.

Important! Installation of Onduvilla is possible at temperatures from -5 to +30 degrees. In the cold season, the speed of work depends on the condition of the repair compositions. With strong cooling, the adhesive properties of the mounting tapes are lost, and the sealants become more viscous. So expendable materials should be stored in a heated room, and during installation - kept in pockets.

Features of the installation of roofing elements

Mounting forceps

Fasten the end beam with a size of 40 * 40 mm along the bottom of the slope crate. Install gable elements, placing them along the edge of the roof from the eaves to the ridge. The overlap should be 8 cm. The transverse lines serve as a good guide. Mounting options for components are clearly shown in the photo.

Mounting the skate

Decorate the ridge elements. To do this, install covering aprons with an overlap of 4 cm on both slopes. Fasten the skates over them, taking into account the angle of the roof slope. If you use Ondulin roofing elements, the gaps must be closed with Onduvilla filler. In the same way, the ribs of a multi-pitched roof are formed - in this case, the joints of the slopes are additionally sealed with a breathable tape.

Onduvilla ventilated skates are also used to protect the slope joints. First, lay a breathable insulation pad along the rib, then close it with a roofing element with an overlap of 8 cm. Install special end caps on the ends of the ribs.

Installation of valleys

For laying the valleys, an additional crate is required. Install 50 mm thick bars on inside corners roofs. The distance between their center and the rafters should be no more than 21 cm. Mount a continuous boardwalk at least 70 cm wide along the slope line.

Lay underlayment waterproofing to protect against leaks. Here you can use Ondutis superdiffusion membranes. Make sure that the overlap of the canvases is at least 30 cm.

Fix the valley on the resulting base. Installation of roofing elements is carried out in the direction from the eaves. The starting gutter is installed with an offset of 5-7 cm, which allows you to set the valley flush with the cornice line. The subsequent parts are laid with an overlap of 15 cm and fixed in all corners with wide-head nails.

Connection design

To carry out the work, you will need an Onduvilla covering apron and a specialized tape with metal coated"Onduflash-Super". To begin, lay the apron around the chimney/along the wall and nail it into each wave of soft roofing.

Close the apron-to-wall/pipe joint with an appropriately sized strip of tape. Make sure that the sealing material extends at least 10-15 cm onto the vertical surface.

To fix the top edge of the tape, use metal profiles or wooden planks.

After finishing work, cover the bottom of the tape with an additional sheet of Onduvilla soft roofing.

Ventilation outlets

Use additional elements to ensure complete tightness of the connections and avoid future leaks. Onduvilla ventilation pipes perfectly match the "native" soft roof, and deflector caps reliably protect the channels from debris and precipitation. Installation is carried out as follows:

  • Cut an appropriately sized hole opposite 3 or 4 Onduvilla sheets. To do this, draw a line that coincides with the axis of the wave, and measure along it 13.5 cm from the top edge of the sheet. Set the leg of the compass at the end of the line and draw a circle with a diameter of 12 cm. Carefully cut it out with a jigsaw.
  • Mount the vent pipe. Make sure that the profile of its base coincides with the waves of the soft roof.
  • Lay the Onduvilla sheets over the base and secure the vent pipe with branded nails.

Video installation of a soft roof

Take a few minutes to watch the video. The plot highlights the features of a soft roof and typical mistakes novice builders.

Important nuances

Prior to installation, Onduvilla must be stored in a horizontal position. It is advisable to keep the original packaging. If it has been damaged, it is necessary to protect the opened pallets from moisture and dirt. The soft roof cannot be stored near heating devices, the minimum distance is 1 meter.

The roof made of bituminous soft tiles is easy to use, durable and aesthetic. Its big plus is that self-assembly is quite possible. The technology is not the most complicated, the weight of the fragment is small, it is attached to the adhesive base, additionally fixed with roofing nails. So the installation of soft tiles with your own hands can be done even alone.

Roofing cake for soft tiles

The attic under the roof can be warm or cold, depending on this, the composition of the roofing cake changes. But its part from the rafters and above always remains unchanged:

  • waterproofing is stuffed on the rafters;
  • on it - bars with a thickness of at least 30 mm;
  • solid flooring.

Here we will consider these materials in more detail - from what and how to make, what features each of them has.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing membranes are available in one, two or three layers. Single-layer membranes - the simplest and cheapest, perform only a dual task - do not allow moisture to pass towards the room and release vapors to the outside. So in a simple way not only is the attic protected from the penetration of condensate or suddenly leaked precipitation, but also excess moisture that accompanies human life is removed from the air. Single-layer membranes are poorly represented on the market. Practically they are produced by one company - Tyvek.

Two and three-layer membranes are more durable. They, in addition to the waterproofing layer, also have a layer that gives greater tensile strength. The third layer, if any, is the absorbent layer. That is, even if a drop of condensate has formed on the surface of the membrane, this layer absorbs it into itself, preventing it from spilling onto other materials. With sufficient ventilation, moisture from this layer gradually evaporates and is carried away by air currents.

Three-layer membranes (for example, EUROTOP N35, RANKKA, YUTAKON) are desirable if your attic is insulated and used as a heater mineral wool. It is afraid of getting wet and with an increase in humidity by 10% loses half of its thermal insulation properties.

If under soft tiles there will be cold attic, it is desirable to use a two-layer waterproofing membrane. In terms of strength, it is much better than single-layer ones, and at a price it is only a little more expensive.

crate

On top of the waterproofing film, parallel to the overhang, the lathing strips are stuffed. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap. It will help maintain the normal humidity of roofing materials.

The crate is made from boards conifers(mainly pine trees). The thickness of the boards is at least 30 mm. This is the minimum gap that will ensure the normal movement of air in the under-roof space. Before laying, the wood must be treated with an impregnation that protects against pests and fungi; after drying this layer, it is also treated with fire retardants, which reduce the combustibility of wood.

The minimum length of the board for the crate is at least two spans of rafters. They are attached and connected above the rafter legs. You can't connect them anywhere else.

Flooring

The flooring under soft tiles is made solid. Materials are selected based on the fact that nails must be driven into it, therefore they are usually used:

  • OSB 3;
  • moisture resistant plywood;
  • tongue-and-groove or edged board of the same thickness (25 mm) with a moisture content of not more than 20%.

When laying flooring under soft tiles, it is necessary to leave gaps between the elements to compensate for thermal expansion. When using plywood or OSB, the gap is 3 mm, between edged boards 1-5 mm. Sheet material is fastened with a run-out of seams, that is, so that the joints are not continuous. Fasten the OSB with self-tapping screws or ruffed nails.

Using boards as flooring, it is necessary to ensure that the annual rings of the wood are directed downwards. With the reverse arrangement, they will be arched, soft tiles will be lifted, the tightness of the coating may be broken. There is another trick that will keep the wooden flooring even if the moisture content of the boards is above 20%. When laying the ends of the boards, they are additionally fastened with two nails or self-tapping screws hammered close to the edge. This additional fastener will prevent the boards from bending during shrinkage.

The choice of the thickness of the material for flooring under soft tiles depends on the pitch of the crate. The larger the pitch, the thicker the flooring required. The best option- frequent step and thin plates. In this case, a light but rigid base is obtained.

Another point concerns the installation of flooring for soft tiles around the chimney pipe. With a brick pipe, the width of which is more than 50 cm, a groove is made behind it (pictured). This design, reminiscent of a mini-roof. It separates the rain streams, they roll down the sides of the pipe without flowing into the under-roof space.

After installing the flooring, its geometry is checked. The length is measured, the width of the slope at the top and bottom, the height of the slope on both sides, the diagonals are measured. And the last check - tracking the plane - the entire slope must lie entirely in the same plane.

Soft tile roofing technology

When buying, you will most likely be provided with instructions for which the installation of soft tiles will be described step by step and in detail, indicating all the exact dimensions that this particular manufacturer requires. These recommendations should be followed. However, it is worth getting acquainted with the order of work and their volumes ahead of time - in order to understand the intricacies of installation and the required amount of materials.

We must say right away that it is necessary to handle soft tiles when laying carefully - she does not like it if she is bent. Therefore, try not to bend or crush the shingles unnecessarily (this is one fragment consisting of a visible and mounting part).

Overhang reinforcement

The drip bar is installed first. This is an L-shaped sheet of metal coated with paint or polymer composition. Polymer coating is more expensive, but also more reliable. The color is selected close to the color of bituminous tiles.

Drip bar installed along the roof overhangs

The task of the drip bar is to protect the crate, sections of rafters and flooring from moisture. With one edge, the dropper is laid on the flooring, with the second it closes the overhang. It is fastened with galvanized (stainless steel) nails, which are hammered in a checkerboard pattern (one is closer to the fold, the second is almost at the edge). Fastener installation step - 20-25 cm.

The drip bar is sold in two-meter pieces. Having laid the first element, the second is fixed with an overlap of at least 3 cm. If desired, the gap can be closed: grease the joint with bituminous mastic, fill it with sealant. At the same stage, it is mounted, in any case, hooks are nailed that will hold the gutters.

Laying waterproofing carpet

Regardless of the angle of the roof, a waterproofing lining must be laid in and along the slope. It is sold in meter wide rolls. An adhesive is applied to the underside, covered with a protective film or paper. Before laying, the paper is removed, the valley carpet is glued to the flooring.

Installation of a waterproofing carpet begins with laying it in the valley. Roll out the material of a meter width, distributing 50 cm on both sides of the bend. Here it is desirable to do without joints, but, if necessary, the overlap of two canvases should be at least 15 cm. Laying goes from bottom to top, the junction is additionally coated with bitumen mastic, the material is well pressed.

Next, a waterproofing carpet for flexible tiles is laid along the cornice overhang. The minimum width of the carpet on the cornice overhang is the size of the overhang itself, plus 60 cm. First, the carpet is rolled out, if necessary, cut, then the protective film is removed from the inside and glued to the substrate. Additionally, they are fixed along the edges with stainless steel or galvanized nails with a large flat hat (step 20-25 cm).

In places of a horizontal joint, the overlap of two canvases is at least 10 cm, in the vertical direction - at least 15 cm. All joints are additionally coated with bituminous mastic, the material is compressed.

Lining carpet

The lining carpet, as well as the waterproofing carpet, is sold in rolls of meter width, the back side is covered with an adhesive. The laying method depends on the slope of the roof and on the profile of the selected shingles.


When using shingles with cuts (such as Jazz, Trio, Beaver tail), regardless of the slope, the lining carpet is spread over the entire surface of the roof.

Underlayment installation often requires undercutting. This is done with a sharp knife. In order not to damage the material below when cutting, enclose a piece of plywood or OSB.

Fronton (end) plank

Gable strips are mounted on the side sections of the overhangs. These are strips of metal bent in the form of the letter "G", along the fold line of which there is a small protrusion. They close the stacked roofing materials from wind loads, from moisture ingress. The gable plank is laid on the flooring over the lining or waterproofing carpet, fixed with nails (stainless steel or galvanized) in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 15 cm.

These planks also come in pieces of 2 m, stacked with an overlap of at least 3 cm.

Slope marking

To make the installation of soft tiles simple, markings in the form of a grid are applied to the lining carpet or flooring. Do this with a painter's cord. The lines along the cornice overhang are applied at a distance equal to 5 rows of tiles, in the vertical - every meter (the length of one flexible tile shingle). This marking makes laying easier - the edges are leveled along it, it is easier to track distances.

Valley carpet

On top of the already laid waterproofing carpet, another valley material is laid. It is slightly wider, serves as an additional guarantee of no leaks. Without removing the protective film from the underside, it is laid, cut at the bottom in the overhang area, and the boundaries are marked. Deviating from the mark of 4-5 cm, a special mastic of increased fixation Fixer is applied. It is applied from a syringe, with a roller, then rubbed with a spatula into a strip about 10 cm wide.

A valley carpet is laid out on the mastic, the folds are smoothed out, the edges are pressed. Stepping back from the edge by 3 cm, it is fixed with nails in increments of 20 cm.

Connection to a brick pipe

To bypass pipes and ventilation outlets, patterns are made from a valley carpet or galvanized metal, painted in the appropriate color. The surface of the pipe is plastered, treated with a primer.

When using a valley carpet, a pattern is made so that the material enters the pipe by at least 30 cm, and at least 20 cm should remain on the roof.

The pattern is smeared with bitumen mastic, placed in place. the front part is installed first, then the right and left.

Part of the side elements is wrapped on the front part. Back wall installed last. Its parts go to the side.

At correct installation on the flooring around the pipe, a platform is obtained, completely covered with a valley carpet. Before laying tiles in this place, the surface is smeared with bituminous mastic.

The tile from three sides enters the laid carpet, not reaching the walls of the pipe 8 cm.

The upper part of the junction is sealed with a metal strip, which is attached to the dowels.

All gaps are filled with heat-resistant sealant.

Conclusion of round pipes

For the passage of ventilation pipes there are special passage devices. They are positioned so that the lower edge of the element extends over the tile by at least 2 cm.

Having attached the passage element to the roof, its inner hole is circled. According to the applied contour, a hole is cut in the substrate, into which a round pipe is led out.

The back of the skirt of the passage element is smeared with bituminous mastic, set to the desired position, and additionally fastened around the perimeter with nails. When installing soft tiles, the penetration skirt is smeared with mastic.

The shingle is cut as close as possible to the ledge of the penetration, the gap is then filled with mastic, which is covered with a special UV-protective dressing.

starting strip

The installation of soft tiles begins with the laying of the starting strip. Usually it is a ridge-cornice tile or an ordinary one with cut petals. The first element is laid on one of the edges of the slope, going to the edge of the gable plank. The lower edge of the starting strip is laid on the drip, stepping back from its fold 1.5 cm.

Before installation, the protective film is removed from the back, the shingle is leveled and laid. Each section of bituminous tiles is fastened with four nails - at the corners of each fragment, stepping back from the edge or perforation line 2-3 cm.

If a cut from an ordinary tile is used as a starting strip, in some part of it there will be no adhesive composition. In these places, the substrate is smeared with bituminous mastic.

Installation of soft ordinary tiles

There is a flexible tile with an applied adhesive mass, protected by a film, and there is a composition that does not require a protective film, although it also fixes the elements well on the roof. When using the first type of material, the film is removed immediately before installation.

Before laying bituminous tiles on the roof, several packs are opened - 5-6 pieces. Laying is carried out from all packs at the same time, taking one shingle from each one in turn. Otherwise, there will be pronounced spots on the roof that differ in color.

The first shingle is laid so that its edge does not reach the edge of the starting strip by 1 cm. In addition to the adhesive composition, the tiles are also fixed with roofing nails. The number of fasteners depends on the angle of the slope:


When installing soft tiles, it is important to drive in nails correctly. Hats should be pressed against the shingle, but not break through its surface.

Valley design

With the help of a paint cord in the valley, an area is marked in which nails cannot be driven in - this is 30 cm from the middle of the valley. Then mark the boundaries of the gutter. They can be from 5 to 15 cm in both directions.

The upper corner, which is turned towards the valley, is cut

When laying ordinary shingles, nails are driven in as close as possible to the line beyond which nails cannot be hammered, and shingles are trimmed to the floor of the gutter laying line. To prevent water from flowing under the material, the upper corner of the tile is cut obliquely, cutting off about 4-5 cm. The loose edge of the tile is smeared with bituminous mastic and fixed with nails.

Decoration of the pediment

On the sides of the slope, the tiles are cut so that 1 cm remains to the edge (protrusion) of the end plank. The upper corner of the shingle is cut in the same way as in the valley - a piece of 4-5 cm obliquely. The edge of the tile is smeared with mastic. A strip of mastic - at least 10 cm. Then it is fixed with nails, like the rest of the elements.

If the flooring in the ridge area is made solid, a hole is cut along the ridge, which should not reach the end of the rib 30 cm. bituminous tiles it is laid up to the beginning of the hole, after which a special ridge profile with ventilation holes is installed.

It is fixed with long roofing nails. On a long skate, several elements can be used, they are joined end-to-end. The installed metal ridge is covered with ridge tiles. A protective film is removed from it, then the fragment is fixed with four nails (two on each side). The installation of soft tiles on the ridge goes towards the prevailing winds, one fragment overlaps the other by 3-5 cm.

The ridge tile is a ridge-eaves divided into three parts. A perforation is applied on it, a fragment comes off along it (first bend, press the fold, then tear off).

The same elements can be cut from an ordinary tile. It is divided into three parts, not paying attention to the drawing. At the resulting tiles, a corner is cut off - about 2-3 cm on each side. The middle of the fragment is heated with a building hair dryer on both sides, placed in the middle on a bar and, gently pressing, bend over.

Ribs and kinks

The ribs are covered with ridge tiles. A line is beaten off along the bend at the required distance with a masking cord. The edge of the tile is aligned along it. Laying of flexible tiles on the edge goes from bottom to top, each fragment is glued, then stepping back from the top edge of 2 cm, fixed with nails - two on each side. The next fragment comes to the laid 3-5 cm.