How to lay foam blocks or the construction of load-bearing walls from foam blocks. Pros and cons of foam block masonry How to lay foam block walls

12.05.2020

When building a private house, developers use different kinds blocks that are stacked on top of each other cement-sand mortar or special glue. Foamed concrete blocks are popular. Foam block masonry has its own characteristics. When planning to do the laying of foam concrete blocks with your own hands, you should study the rules for installing the first row, as well as the technology for laying and strengthening the remaining rows with reinforcement. To increase the stability of the masonry, it is important to figure out how to reinforce the openings. Consider the features of technology.

Preparation of special and general construction tools and building materials

Foam concrete blocks are distinguished by their low weight, the necessary margin of safety, they are easily machined, they effectively insulate the room, but they are a rather fragile building material. Having decided to carry out construction, you should carefully handle foam products, and use tools and equipment for special and universal purposes to perform work.

Tools for laying foam blocks

For laying foam blocks you will need:

a massive hammer with a rubberized head, used for dense laying of block material;
the building level necessary to control the masonry and the location of the horizontal seam;
hand saw and square, allowing you to mark the blocks and adjust their size;
an electric drill or a construction mixer that speeds up the preparation of a binder mixture for foam block masonry;
trowel, with which the solution is applied in an even layer during the construction of walls;
a special grater and planer for blocks, allowing you to give the building material the required shape and size;
a wall chaser that forms a longitudinal groove on the foam block surface for placing reinforcing bars;
twine stretched between corner blocks and serving as a guide when laying blocks;
grinder with a cutting wheel for metal, necessary for cutting reinforcing bars into blanks of the desired length.

For the construction of foam concrete walls of a private house, the following building materials will be required:

It is enough to have basic knowledge to start laying foam blocks with your own hands

foam concrete blocks. The construction of walls subject to significant loads will require the use of a stronger material, marked with the designation D600. The construction of partitions located between the internal premises is carried out from foam concrete blocks of the D500 brand. You should not take risks and buy foam blocks made in artisanal conditions. Industrial production passes laboratory control and meets the requirements of standards, which is confirmed by a certificate of conformity;
Portland cement brand M400, as well as fine sand, cleaned of foreign impurities. Of these ingredients, taken in a ratio of 4: 1, a masonry mortar is prepared. To increase the frost resistance and moisture resistance of the working mixture, plasticizing components are added to it. The use of an inexpensive cement-sand mortar when laying foam concrete walls reduces costs. The thickness of the binder when laying blocks reaches 20 mm, which causes additional heat loss through bridges of cold;
construction adhesive for laying blocks. The adhesive mixture is sold in building supermarkets in powder form. The recipe regulated by the manufacturer provides for the addition of water to the dry mixture at the rate of 0.1 l per 0.5 kg of dry powder. The glue is mixed with a drill with a mixing nozzle until a uniform consistency is obtained. Construction adhesive is applied to the surface in a thin layer, the thickness of which does not exceed 3 mm. The use of glue for laying blocks can improve the thermal insulation of the room.

When determining which binder mixture will be used for foam block masonry, you should not focus only on the level of costs. The use of a cheap mortar of sand and cement increases the amount of heat loss, and the use of a more expensive glue applied in a thin layer prevents the formation of cold bridges. It is necessary to comprehensively evaluate all indicators to make the right decision.

You should not focus only on the level of costs, determining which binder mixture will be used for foam block masonry

You will also need steel reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm with a corrugated surface or finished mesh. The use of steel rods of class A-III will ensure the reliability of reinforcement. It is important to prepare essential tool and building materials, so that the laying of the foam block with their own hands is carried out without interruption.

Calculation of building material for the construction of foam concrete walls

When planning to build a house from foam concrete blocks, you must first perform a number of calculations. To determine the need for material, a building plan will be required.

Initial data:

foam block length - 60 cm;
product width - 20 cm;
block height - 30 cm;
the dimensions of the building outline and the height of the box are determined by the plan;
thickness of foam concrete walls - determined at the design stage;
dimensions and number of openings are specified in the project documentation.

It is necessary to preliminarily perform a number of calculations when planning to build a house from foam concrete blocks

Settlement operations are performed by various methods:

manually. Knowing the dimensions of the foam blocks, the thickness of the walls and the dimensions of the building box, it is easy to independently determine how much foam concrete will be required;
using an online calculator. It allows you to more accurately determine the number of blocks, taking into account additional parameters, including the thickness of the seam in the masonry.

Consider how the calculations are performed manually. To calculate the required number of blocks, do the following:

Calculate the perimeter of the box by adding the lengths of the walls.
Determine the wall area by multiplying the height of the walls by the length of the contour.
Calculate the total area of window and doorways.
Subtract from total area walls the resulting value.
Divide the resulting area by the area of the lateral plane of the foam block.

Using a specific example, we will determine the number of foamed concrete blocks required for the construction of a box with dimensions of 5x7 m, a height of 3 m and a wall thickness of 0.3 m.

To calculate blocks, you need:

Calculations of the required number of blocks

Determine the area of the box - (5 + 7 + 5 + 7) x3 \u003d 72 m2.
Calculate the area of doorways (0.7x2=1.4 m2) and window openings (1.3x1.5=1.95 m2).
Sum up the values obtained for the openings - 1.4 + 1.95 = 3.35 m2.
Calculate the area of the walls without openings - 72-3.35 \u003d 68.65 m2.
Determine the area of the side plane of the foam block - 0.6x0.2 \u003d 0.12 m2.
Calculate the number of blocks - 68.65: 0.12 = 572 pcs.

Do-it-yourself outdoor masonry from foam blocks

Having decided to build a house from foam blocks with your own hands, you should carefully familiarize yourself with the requirements of the technology. The laying of walls from foam blocks is carried out from pre-prepared material. It is necessary to clean the blocks from contamination, check the conformity of sizes, and also plan their surface by removing sagging with a planer or grater. Let's dwell on the features of the technology.

We prepare the foundation for the house for masonry work

For the construction of a house from foam blocks, the foundation is best suited tape construction. She is verified in various conditions operation and ensures the stability and durability of foam block structures. So, where to start laying foam blocks?

Preparing the foundation for masonry work

First you need to prepare the surface of the existing foundation:

Check the horizontalness of the base with a building level.
Plan the foundation with a cement-sand mortar.
After the cement hardens, lay on the surface with two layers of roofing material.

When preparing the foundation, remember that it is necessary to lay sheets of roofing material with an overlap of 100-150 mm.

Rules for laying the first layer of foam blocks on the cement mortar

To compensate for height differences, the lower level of the blocks should be laid on the cement mixture. Please follow the following procedure:

Determine the raised corner of the foundation with a laser level.
Lay a cement mixture 20-30 mm thick on the roofing material in the corners of the base.
Moisten the surface of blocks intended for laying in corners.
Lay the blocks by which the horizontality of the bottom row is controlled.
Stretch the twine between the corner blocks, check for sagging.
Adjust the position of the blocks by tapping them with a hammer.
Moisten the surface of the blocks to be laid in the bottom row.
Apply a layer of mortar and lay blocks on it, focusing on the stretched cord.

Rules for laying the first layer of foam blocks

While doing masonry works, pay attention to the following points:

the need for constant compaction of blocks during masonry to ensure the size of the vertical seam is not more than 10 mm, and the horizontal one - 15-20 mm;
mandatory performance of control operations to check the horizontal position of the masonry;
the feasibility of reinforcing the lower foam blocks with reinforcing bars.

After laying the reinforcement, the bars should be connected by welding or knitting wire, and then poured with a cement mixture.

How to put the rest of the rows on the glue for foam blocks

The second and subsequent levels of foam blocks should be laid on building glue. You must adhere to the following algorithm:

Start laying rows from corner sections.
Pull the cord in each row between the corner blocks.
Moisten the material and apply the adhesive in a thin layer.
Control the horizontal level of each masonry level.

Do not forget about the need to reinforce the masonry with mesh or reinforcement at intervals of 3 or 4 rows.

The second and subsequent levels of foam blocks should be laid on the construction adhesive

Proper dressing of seams when laying foam concrete products

A well-executed dressing guarantees the reliability of the masonry and prevents the formation of cracks. Possible options dressings:

with an offset of the foam blocks by 50% of the length relative to the blocks of the lower level. This is a common ligation method that provides strength and aesthetics;
with a shift of masonry elements by 30-40% of the length. This method is less popular, but also reliably protects the masonry from cracking along vertical seams.

The choice of a specific type of dressing is determined individually.

Features of the installation of foam concrete products in the corner sections of the box

Corner blocks are laid from the highest point. It is important to comply with the following requirements:

be sure to ligate the corner elements;
control the tight fit of the foam blocks;
ensure equal thickness of the masonry joint.

The location of the masonry seam in the middle of the foam block - best option offset.

Corner blocks are laid from the highest point

Arrangement of wall openings and reinforcement to ensure load-bearing capacity

For the arrangement of door and window openings, foam blocks laid on various bases are also used:

metal profile;
prefabricated reinforced concrete lintels;
lintels, independently concreted into the formwork.

To increase the strength of the masonry, foam blocks are reinforced. To strengthen the foam block walls use:

steel reinforcement laid in grooves on the surface of the blocks;
metal mesh placed in a binder solution.

Strengthening is carried out along the entire height of the box with an equal interval through 3-4 levels of blocks.

Arrangement of wall openings

The technology of laying foam blocks in the construction of the internal walls of the house

If you want to build a house from foam blocks with your own hands, you should study the rules of masonry internal walls.

The load-bearing walls located inside the box are joined to the outer walls by various methods:

with dressing for 50% of the block length and penetration into the outer wall by 30 cm;
with the installation of blocks of internal walls in prepared cavities with a depth of 15-20 cm;
with laying foam blocks close to the surface external walls without dressing.

Professionals prefer the second method, which prevents the formation of corner cracks.

Laying of internal partitions

Laying of foam blocks of internal partitions

They lie not on the foundation, but on concrete surface gender.

It is important to consider the following points:

provide a thermal gap of 1-1.5 cm in the upper part of the wall;
seal the expansion joint with mounting foam;
lay blocks on roofing material;
reinforce the partition wall with reinforcing bars.

The masonry technology complies with the rules for the installation of wall foam blocks.

Recommendations for the correct construction of foam concrete structures

Use the advice of professionals when performing work:

prepare the binder mixture in a small volume, which retains its properties for several hours after preparation;
compact the foam blocks immediately after laying, until the glue or mortar has hardened;
carry out plaster finishing a month after construction, when shrinkage is completed.

It is easy for novice craftsmen to master the techniques of foam block masonry, having dealt with the requirements of the technology. The increased dimensions of the foam blocks allow you to quickly build the walls of the house. The guarantee of the durability of the structure is the use of high-quality raw materials and the implementation of technological recommendations.

So, there is a foundation, communications are introduced. We proceed to the construction of load-bearing walls from foam blocks (foam concrete blocks), using for this purpose fiberized foam concrete M 600 (FPB) with dimensions of 600 * 300 * 200. So how to lay foam blocks? And what is the laying of the first row, and what is the reinforcing belt made of? All about this in detail below…

More material with photographs on this topic is in the article " .

Before laying the blocks, a layer of waterproofing must be laid under the base of the walls. To do this, the laying surface must be thoroughly cleaned. The roofing material is laid as follows: a roll is rolled onto the cleaned surface. Before he lays down on the foundation, he must be heated (with a blowtorch or gas burner). This is done for better bonding of surfaces, therefore, better waterproofing.

Laying the first row of foam blocks

At the end of this process, it is necessary to determine the highest corner of the foundation. This can be done using a level (if any) or a hose level, which can actually be made at home as follows. For example, the longest foundation wall is 10 m. Then you need to take any hose with a length of at least 12 meters and more. We insert glass tubes about 15–20 cm long at the ends of the hose, and fill the hose with water so that the liquid level is in the middle of the tubes. On both tubes we mark this level with a marker. The top of the tube must be plugged with something, otherwise the water will pour out. Then we fix one end at any corner so that the mark corresponds to the level of the foundation. We alternately bring the second end of the hose to each of the corners.

Having determined the upper point of the foundation, we lay the block on it on the minimum layer of mortar, while aligning it horizontally. Then we re-fix the hose level so that the mark corresponds to the upper edge of the block. Then in other corners, using the hose and horizontal levels, we put other blocks. After installing all the corners, be sure to stretch the ropes along the walls. Now we put the remaining blocks of the first row along the ropes. We lay them on the mortar, where the ratio of cement to sand should be 1 to 3. Moreover, do not apply the mortar immediately to the entire wall. Do it for two, three blocks, no more.

After the first row is laid, it must be allowed to dry a little (2 - 3 hours). Then it is necessary to lightly process the top layer with a grinding grater and remove dust with a brush. This is done when laying each row for better adhesion of the material. Then, using the same technology as when laying the corner blocks of the first row, we lay the corners of the next rows.

We carry out all the adjustment of the blocks only with a rubber mallet, but if there is none, then you should put the board and hit it. We must remember the rule that between the rows there should be knitting, with each upper block entering the lower one by at least 8 cm. The following rows are placed on a special adhesive for cellular concrete. If there is none, then you can spread it on any glue for tiles. All the advantage of special glue is that it is light, and not so noticeable in the masonry.

The glue is applied to two or three blocks, with a layer of about 3 mm, using a special trowel or a figured spatula. If you purchased the "correct" fibrous foam concrete, then the blocks can only be placed on a horizontal layer of glue, which significantly reduces its consumption. If the geometric error of the blocks is large, then a vertical layer of glue should be made between the blocks. A metal reinforcing mesh must be laid on the surface of every third row so that it covers at least 2/3 of the wall surface. This is done to evenly distribute the loads over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wall. On the row of blocks that precedes the row of blocks of the window opening, it is imperative to lay the grid in such a way that its edges extend to the sides beyond the borders of the opening by at least 50 cm. This is done even if the row preceding the window opening is not the “third” one.

Along the perimeter of the openings, the masonry should be calculated so that the upper blocks corresponding to the top of the opening are intact (not cut off). Jumpers will be laid on them, which go onto the wall at least 40 cm. Reinforcing mesh should also be laid under the jumpers. If you purchased fibrous foam concrete from good manufacturer, then they usually offer jumpers as well. Skeptics believe that they cannot be made from fibrous foam concrete. But they think so out of ignorance. Lintels made of fibrous foam concrete have proven themselves perfectly and have passed all types of tests.

In addition, you will get a wall of a homogeneous material, which will positively affect its thermal conductivity.

When the construction of the load-bearing walls is completed, they should be treated from the inside with a deep penetration acrylic primer.

If there are vertical gaps between the blocks, they should be covered with an adhesive solution. On top of the walls, it is necessary to make a reinforcing belt, or a stabilization belt. It can be made both from cast fibrous foam concrete (if there is such an opportunity), having previously made a reinforcing tab, and from ordinary concrete. But in this case, you need to take care of additional insulation of the belt.

Based on experience, we can say that most builders do not follow the rules listed above and lay the blocks in the same way as an ordinary ordinary brick. This leads to the appearance of cold bridges and other negative consequences.

How to lay foam blocks correctly everyone thinks before starting construction. After all, this is quite a large material and will greatly facilitate the work. But the truth is to say that having won in the speed of construction, you will have to bear the cost of finishing. And it's a must.

How to properly lay the foam block, we will consider today. Also, your attention will be presented with a video in this article and a photo, where you will find a lot of additional information.

Foam block masonry

To slightly rock the boat of building conservatism, you need not so much. Challenge the power of traditional building materials of status, and pay close attention to their counterparts, which abound in the modern market.

This material, created about 70 years ago, was originally intended for utility-type buildings. Today, it is increasingly used in low-rise suburban construction of houses, in construction - cafes, shops, sanatoriums, schools, and so on.

The secrets of the success of foam blocks

Logically justified:

High resistance to fire;
thermal insulation qualities, which no one can dispute (keeps cool in summer, warm in winter);
Soundproofing;
Durability; with proper functional application, capital structures from this type of building material can serve for more than 100 years;
Environmental friendliness; foam blocks are also called bioblocks (no harmful impurities in composition, similarity with wood);
Frost resistance;
breathability;
Affordable price and the possibility of laying with your own hands significantly reduce costs;
Short construction time;
Requires minimal knowledge for the masonry process;
Variety of sizes, the ability to saw and give any shape; material, which is important for the implementation of design ideas;
PB walls have a small mass;
Design for minimal shrinkage.

With all the undeniable advantages, foam blocks have their drawbacks:

Low resistance to vertical loads, which dictates the need to install reinforcing belts in places of load
Low resistance to moisture; (it is possible to reduce this disadvantage to zero by plastering or cladding the building with waterproof materials)

Choice of foam blocks

This issue requires a serious and thorough approach, since recently there have been many unscrupulous "handicraft manufacturers" who produce low-quality products.

But compliance with the necessary strength standards allows you to avoid not only cracks and subsidence, but also to get a building that, without processing and cladding, will be used all year round without any disturbances in the structure of the foam blocks.

Criteria for selecting quality PBs:

Same size	To check on a flat surface, we put 5-6 blocks very tightly, “back to back” one to one. If we observe a fit over the entire surface, without gaps, then the quality is on the face.
Breakage test	To do this, rub a piece of the chip between your fingers. If you succeed, it means that there was a lack of cement in the composition, or too much water.
The presence of even microscopic cracks	This indicates non-compliance with the correct mode of drying the foam blocks, and, as a result, internal stress. During transportation, they can be severely “damaged”. It is worth considering how many such blocks will reach the consumer intact.
The identity of the lower and upper cleavage of the block	The presence of differences, namely a strong chip from below, but fragile from above, says that you have a foam block in front of you - a “sandwich”, which greatly reduces the strength of the material.
The shape and size of the bubbles on the cleavage	Spherical shape, not exceeding 1 mm in diameter, the best way compared to the oval shape and more than 1 mm.
No grease streaks	The color of the walls and the core of the blocks must be identical. If this is not the case, then it is better to refuse such an acquisition. Since, as a result, plaster may not lay down on such a surface.

Necessary equipment for masonry

All work is performed with the following tool:

Corner and hacksaw (for smooth sawing of the block)
Planer (to change the shape of the foam concrete block)
Grater (for preparing the working plane, eliminating irregularities)
Building level and rubber mallet
Trowel - provides uniform distribution of glue or solution over the surface of the material
Drill with a nozzle (for high-quality dilution of mixtures on an adhesive or cement basis)
Wall chaser, (by means of which grooves are cut)
Carriage - allows you to quickly apply the solution
brushes

Solutions for installing foam blocks

There are several ways of laying this building material - using a special adhesive, a cement-containing mortar, a lime composition, or an adhesive for finishing tiles.

Attention: The use of adhesive composition allows you to form seams with a thickness of 1-2 mm, which increases thermal insulation. Prevents the appearance of "cold bridges", thanks to its fine-grained structure. It does not require additional leveling procedures, as, in the end result, it provides a flat and smooth surface.

The advantages of the cement-sand mixture are:

low cost
Possibility of masking some surface defects of the block during operation
It is allowed to use not high-quality blocks
Possibility of self-cooking

Instructions for kneading:

Mix cement and sand (dry ingredients), in a ratio of 1: 3
Gradually add water (small amounts)
In the resulting mixture, add the necessary plasticizers (without ceasing to mix the contents thoroughly)

The lime composition allows you to achieve an almost perfectly even distribution over the working plane (fills the seams perfectly). However, it does not provide high masonry strength. Tile adhesive is a frost-resistant mixture, designed for both outdoor and indoor use.

Technology of installation of foam blocks

To form the first row of foam concrete blocks, you will need:

Preliminary waterproofing of the foundation using rolled bituminous material
Remove sharp corners and chamfers from blocks (machining) if chips are found on them
Carry out the installation of corner blocks, (wetting the lower part with water, for better adhesion); between them, you should stretch and fasten the so-called mooring cord (it acts as a kind of guideline for smooth laying of the first row)
Place the block on the layer of the applied solution (1st - no more than 30 mm), not forgetting to coat the side planes
Check the level of accuracy and quality of laying, making adjustments, if necessary, (using a rubber mallet)
Get rid of surface irregularities using a grinding tool

The installation of the second row is similar to the first:

It is necessary to adhere to the correct parameters of the seams: the width of the vertical seam is 8-15 mm, and the thickness of the horizontal one varies between 10-15 mm.
To make foam concrete masonry even more reliable and durable, reinforcement should be carried out (every 3-4 rows).
Using a grinder or a shroborez, we make two grooves, along the perimeter of the first row (indent from the edge - at least 60 mm).
Next, place the reinforcement in the grooves, and connect the reinforcing bars to the foam concrete corners using welding machine(or regular wire).
To create an armored belt, and in preparation for laying window openings, use U-shaped blocks. Subsequently, reinforcement should be laid in them and poured with concrete.

Another option is also possible - to fix the formwork on the walls, in which the foam plastic was previously installed for the purpose of thermal insulation, and then fill it with concrete ( optimal height armored belt, in this case - 20 cm).

Pay special attention to laying and the mandatory reinforcement of the first row to prevent the formation of cracks and deviations from the vertical
Do not produce installation work with foam blocks in frosty and wet weather
The need for block ligation
The lack of dedusting leads to a poor-quality connection of the material and the subsequent formation of cracks.
High-quality mortar application for perfect grouting to avoid loss of thermal insulation
If the process of laying foam blocks is carried out in hot weather, then it is necessary to periodically moisten them with water, and at night, to prevent drying out, cover the wall with a film
Prepare masonry mortar in portions that will be used on the same day, not in reserve
The best temperature for work is from 15-250 C

Partition masonry

In order to enhance the strength of the future structure, the pins should be fixed in the bearing ceilings; or place anchors in the walls of the house in advance, and fasten the internal partition (every third row) to the wall using an anchor

Determine the future location of the partition, then apply markings to the designated area; use dye thread
For a more even laying of blocks, install a metal profile (in accordance with the marking lines)
Clean the base of debris and dust, and then apply a coat of primer
Wait for the final drying of the material, and proceed to dilute the glue, (following the instructions)
Coat the base with cement mortar
Start laying the first row
The formation of the second row should be carried out from the middle of the extreme block, (in a checkerboard pattern)
Apply glue, after leveling the surface, (grater or planer)
Place the blocks so that each next row is tightly adjacent to the previous and neighboring blocks (to avoid wall shrinkage in the future)
Having reached the ceiling, you need to fill the gap between the last row of the partition and the ceiling with mounting foam; (don't go overboard with the quantity)
The partition should dry completely, which will take about two days.

How to overlay wooden house foam blocks you will now figure it out without problems. Only during construction it is necessary to immediately take into account the width facing material, because the foundation should be at least five cm larger than this size. So take your time and calculate everything correctly. Now you know how to lay foam blocks correctly.

Foam block walls are built much faster and easier than brick walls. However, this process requires strict adherence to technology, since foam concrete has a number of features. Therefore, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with this process in detail, which will allow you to avoid a number of problems during the construction that beginners usually face.

Construction of the outer wall

The process of building exterior and interior walls is somewhat different. Therefore, we will now consider each operation separately.

We will conditionally divide the construction of external walls into six steps:

Foundation preparation

A house, garage, barn or any other foam block building needs a quality foundation. The latter is erected in the same way as in the construction of walls made of bricks or other materials.

Let's take a look at the device as an example. strip foundation. The instructions for filling it look like this:

Illustrations	Actions
	Site preparation: The site is cleared of the upper vegetation layer; Then the markup of the future structure is applied. To do this, pegs are usually driven in and twine is pulled between them. The marking of internal load-bearing walls is also carried out.
	Trench preparation: Along the perimeter of the site, as well as at the location of the bearing walls, dig trenches to a depth below the freezing of the soil. The depth depends on your region, in central Russia it averages one and a half meters; Align the trench walls. Their width should be 10 centimeters more than the thickness of the walls; Fill the bottom of the trenches with a layer of rubble 15 centimeters thick.
	Formwork installation. Make formwork from OSB boards or, for example, plywood. Fix the formwork walls with spacers and supports.
	Reinforcement. Make a reinforcement frame from two double belts located at the base of the foundation and 5 cm below the top level. Tie the belts with racks and jumpers. For the manufacture of the frame, use reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm.
	Foundation pouring: Fill the prepared formwork with concrete grade M200-M250; Level the surface of the concrete with a trowel. In this case, it is necessary to provide a horizontal plane; After three days, dismantle the formwork; After the concrete has hardened, treat the surface bituminous mastic and lay the roofing material on top.

You can start building walls after the concrete has gained strength. If the construction time is “running out”, it is better not to pour concrete, but to use foundation blocks.

Preparation of foam block and other materials

First of all, I note that not all types of foam block, or gas block, are suitable for the construction of load-bearing walls. Not everyone knows that the material can be autoclaved and non-autoclaved.

For load-bearing walls, I recommend using autoclaved blocks, as their quality is higher - they are stronger and have more accurate geometry. In addition, aerated concrete, like ordinary concrete, differs in strength grade. For bearing walls, it is necessary to use aerated concrete blocks of grade not lower than M500 B2.5.

Houses are often built frame technology, in which the entire load-bearing load is assumed by the reinforced concrete frame or columns. For such walls, you can use blocks of the M400 or even 300 brand, since they, in fact, perform the same function as the partitions.

In addition to the blocks themselves, you will need:

Masonry mixture - it is advisable to use a special glue for gas blocks;
Reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm;
U-shaped blocks for jumpers;
Cement and sand.

When buying glue, pay attention to the date of manufacture and expiration date. As a rule, adhesive mixtures cannot be stored for a long time. Expired glue can cause a decrease in structural strength.

Instead of glue, you can also use a regular cement-sand mortar, but it will have to be applied in a thicker layer. Such a layer between each row will subsequently serve as a cold bridge.

As for tools, you will need a standard masonry kit:

Trowel and notched trowel;
Level and plumb lines;
Container for glue;
Twine.

In addition, for sawing blocks, you will need a hacksaw, as well as a special device for making grooves.

Laying the first row

Now let's start building the walls. The first row is laid out as follows:

Illustrations	Actions
	Block preparation. If, in order to save money, you decide to use non-autoclaved blocks, they most likely have geometry defects. Therefore, try to eliminate chips and irregularities with a hacksaw.
	Laying the first (lighthouse) blocks: If the foundation surface is not perfectly level, find the highest corner and start laying from there; Apply a layer of cement to the surface of the foundation with a trowel; Lay the block and level it with a level. To correct the position of the block, use a rubber mallet; In the same way, lay the blocks on the remaining corners; Stretch twine beacons between the blocks; Make sure the beacons are stretched in the same plane. You can adjust the level of the position of the blocks with a solution. Cement mortar is allowed to level out differences that do not exceed 3 cm. If the level of differences is higher, it is necessary to “zero out” with concrete.
	Laying intermediate blocks: Apply cement to the surface of the foundation. Treat the end of the block with glue using a notched trowel; Place the intermediate block close to the corner block and align its position with a spirit level.

According to this principle, the entire first row of blocks is laid.

Laying the second row and dressing the corners

So, the beginning of our walls has already been laid. Now you need to properly lay the second row. The principle is the same as when laying the first row - at first the blocks are installed in the corners, then the beacon cords are transferred to the row above.

Do not forget about the dressing in the corners. If, for example, you laid the first block of the bottom row along the side wall, then in this corner, lay the block of the second row along the end wall. As a result, all the blocks will shift and you will get a dressing not only of the corners, but of the entire masonry.

Thus, the third and fourth row of blocks are laid.

Reinforcement of the fourth row

Every fourth row must be reinforced so that the walls can withstand the load to which they will be subjected during the operation of the building. Reinforcement is carried out as follows:

Illustrations	Actions
	Making grooves. Make two grooves with a special tool along all the walls. Be sure to perform a smooth twist in the corners, i.e. as large a radius as possible.
	Reinforcement: Lay reinforcement in the grooves. At the joint areas, ensure an overlap of at least 20 cm; Fill the grooves with cement mortar. The joint of the reinforcement should not fall on the corners. Reinforcement can only be joined on flat areas walls.

According to this principle, not only foam blocks are laid, but also other similar materials, such as polystyrene concrete blocks, expanded clay concrete blocks, porous ceramic blocks, etc. The only thing is that these materials, unlike foam blocks, do not require reinforcement.

Thus, it is necessary to build up the wall to the design height. The main thing at the same time, do not forget to reinforce every fourth row.

Arrangement of openings and armored belts

To make window and door openings, it is necessary to make jumpers. For these purposes, special U-shaped blocks are used, which are made in the form of trays.

Jumpers are installed as follows:

As a result, the opening will receive a concrete monolithic bulkhead, the formwork for which is aerated concrete trays. According to the same principle, an armo-belt is also made for laying a ceiling or a roof Mauerlat. We will talk more about the device of overlaps below.

How to lay the floor

The ceiling in the house of foam blocks can be anything - wooden, metal or slab. But, in any case, it fits only on the armored belt. As with the installation of jumpers, the minimum length of the platform on which the ceiling must rest is 25 cm.

I must say that it is not necessary to use U-shaped trays to make an armored belt. Instead of them, the usual formwork is also suitable. Otherwise, the work is carried out in the same way as when installing ceilings on walls made of concrete or brick.

If used wooden beams, they must be waterproofed with roofing material. Also, remember to provide an air gap of about a centimeter, as shown in the diagram above.

That's all the information about the construction of external walls.

A few words about finishing and insulation

Do not forget that after the construction of the walls, it is desirable to finish the outside as quickly as possible, since foam concrete strongly absorbs moisture. You can veneer it with siding, brick or even ordinary plaster. If you do not finish the walls in time, the process of their destruction will begin in the very first winter.

A new building made of aerated concrete shrinks for some time. Therefore, for exterior finish nevertheless, it is preferable to use siding, which is not afraid of any wall movements.

In addition, if you are going to operate the house in winter time year, insulate the walls. It will also increase the longevity of your home. The only thing is that the insulation must be placed on the side of the facade.

From the inside, it makes sense to insulate the room only if it is not possible to do the work from the outside, for example, if you want to insulate the balcony in the apartment.

Why insulate walls? If this is not done, the dew point will be inside the aerated concrete. Accordingly, it will begin to dampen and collapse in winter.

The construction of the internal (bearing) wall of the foam block

Interior load-bearing walls are built according to the same principle as the external ones. The only thing is that it is necessary to properly equip the node of their docking with the outer walls.

You can make a connection in several ways:

To the full depth. In this case, the inner wall is erected in parallel with the outer ones. At the same time, through a row, the block of the inner wall is laid on the outer wall;

For part of the block. The principle is based on the fact that a nest is cut in the outer wall under the block of the inner wall with a depth of 15-20 cm;
butt. Unlike the two technologies described above, such a bundle allows you to build internal walls after the construction of external ones.

The principle is based on the fact that indoor units located close to the outer wall. At the same time, a pin is laid in every third row, which is previously inserted into the outer wall and cemented. A piece of rebar can be used as a pin.

I must say that the first version of the bundle is the most optimal, since it is the simplest, and at the same time providing high structural strength.

Low density foam blocks can be used to equip interior non-bearing partitions. They are more durable than drywall, which will allow you to fix shelves on the partition or, for example, a TV bracket. In addition, foam blocks provide good sound insulation of the room.

After the construction of the internal partition, it is advisable not to plaster it for some time so that it shrinks. Drywall sheathing can be done immediately.

Conclusion

Now you know how to build a wall of foam blocks, and you can handle this task yourself. And if you encounter any difficulties - write comments, and I will be happy to help you with advice.

The correct construction of foam concrete walls and partitions comes down to the fulfillment of a number of conditions: accuracy of calculations, selection of foam blocks of the desired density and the appropriate adhesive composition + compliance with the masonry technology.

The latter is of decisive importance.

The speed and quality of building a house depends on how correctly the first row of foam blocks is laid.

Where to start laying foam blocks - two recommendations

provide good waterproofing of the foundation. Despite the fact that foam concrete has a low moisture absorption rate, waterproofing will maintain the integrity of the material longer;

keep the line horizontal. We will describe this part of the work step by step in the form of instructions for beginners without construction experience, because. it is the first row that sets the tone for the main construction.

The specifics of laying the first and then subsequent rows of foam blocks depends on the purpose and function of the wall. From this position, there are:

load-bearing walls (internal or external, in one or multi-storey buildings);
non-bearing walls (interroom partitions).

1. Masonry of the outer wall of the foam block

Foundation preparation

The foam block is laid on a flat surface, leveling with glue is allowed, but only if the height difference is not more than 30 mm. If there are horizontal violations, it is recommended to level the foundation by applying a layer of sand-cement mixture, and then isolate it.

Foam block preparation

Laying begins with the preparation of blocks. Since the foam block is no different high precision geometric dimensions, it is recommended to bring them into working condition. For this you need:

eliminate irregularities that may affect the quality of the masonry;
remove burrs. To do this, you can use a grater or drywall planer;
eliminate chips.

If too large voids have formed on the surface of the foam block or large chips are present, it is better to leave such a block for trimming.

Masonry of the first row of foam blocks

Laying the first blocks is done in the corners. From what angle to start laying also matters. The first foam block is installed at the corner that is the highest in relation to the rest. The mortar layer under this block will be much thinner than under the foam blocks in other corners. With a flat foundation, the choice is arbitrary.

Corner or as the masters call "lighthouse" foam blocks serve as a guide for further work. Therefore, their installation is a time-consuming and responsible stage.

Note. When installing the corner block, make sure that it protrudes 30-50 mm above the plinth. Such an indentation will prevent the accumulation of water at the ebb of the basement, and it will remain dry. This means that the masonry on which the bottom row is based will not be subject to destruction.

Correction of the installed foam block is carried out with a rubber mallet.

A mooring cord is installed on the lighthouse blocks. The cord can be fixed to the block with a nail. It should be said that hardware does not hold well in foam concrete, but in this case, the nail will fulfill its function. If the distance between the corner blocks is more than 6 meters, it is recommended to install intermediate beacons. This will prevent sagging of the guide rope. Masters recommend installing beacons at the intersection of external and internal load-bearing walls.

It is more convenient to use a laser level for these purposes.

Foam concrete blocks of the first row are laid only on a cement-sand mortar. The solution can be applied in two ways: apply to the previous row of blocks and install a dry block on the adhesive, or apply glue to the surface of the block. The second option is rarely used, but indispensable when a part of the block is inserted into a narrow gap in the masonry.

The solution is applied using a notched trowel or carriage. A trowel can also be used, but it does not allow you to maintain a given thickness of the mixture, which leads to its overrun or the appearance of places without a mixture.

Why is it necessary to use a cement-sand mixture for the first row? In order to level the difference in heights due to a denser overlay layer.

The masonry mortar must be applied not only on the horizontal surface of the row, but also on the side walls of the block. The vertical seam is also filled with mortar. Ignoring this recommendation is fraught with the appearance of voids in the masonry, which will allow moisture to accumulate in the seam gap and, in frost, will lead to the destruction of the seam or block.

The recommended thickness of the horizontal seam when laying the foam block on the mortar should not exceed 10-15 mm. (depending on the type of block), vertical seam - 8-10 mm. Naturally, you can lay out the first row using a special adhesive mixture. In this case, the thickness of the joints will be determined by the recommendation of the mixture manufacturer. But from the point of view of the economy of building a house, such a solution would be inappropriate.

Note. If the block is wetted, the adhesion of its surface with the adhesive mixture will increase. This recommendation is especially relevant for work performed in the warm season.

Sometimes craftsmen save time and mortar and do not fill the vertical seam with glue. In this case, you need to carefully seal the seams from the front and back (inner) sides, leaving the middle empty. If it is planned to plaster the house from foam concrete, vertical seams can not be filled at all.

If necessary, the foam block is cut to the desired size. In this case, the block is less than 50 mm thick. looks ugly, you can eliminate this gap by varying the thickness of the masonry joint. The installed foam block can be adjusted within a certain time (determined by the type of adhesive mixture). Adjustment occurs using a rubber mallet. Further elimination of irregularities is possible only by using a planer or drywall grater.

Note. The first row of blocks is necessarily reinforced.

Masonry of the second row of foam blocks

The second and subsequent rows of blocks are also laid, starting from the corners with periodic measurement of deviations. In this case, the mooring cord moves one block higher and sets the exact direction of the masonry. For these rows, it is desirable to use an adhesive mixture for foam concrete. Due to the fact that the adhesive is consumed less, a certain cost and time savings are achieved. The block of the second row is placed on the block of the first row as tightly as possible so that the solution is squeezed out, which is removed with a trowel.

It should be noted that it is impossible to put the foam block on the block with the intersection of the seams at an angle of 90 °. This weakens the clutch. To perform dressing, you need to move the foam block at a distance of at least 25% of its width. Ideally, the dressing is done on half of the block.

Foam block masonry dressing systems

In practice, a foam concrete house can be laid out in one or two rows. For example, a foam block with a size of 200x300x600 mm is too narrow for load-bearing walls, and a wider one is heavy and inconvenient to work with. This automatically leads to the fact that the laying of foam blocks is carried out in two rows with the obligatory bandaging of the rows. It is she who holds the blocks together and ensures the strength of the entire masonry.

Options for double dressing of foam blocks are shown in the diagram

When bonding, periodically lays out a number of foam blocks, which are placed perpendicular to the main masonry. If the block size exceeds the width of the wall, it is trimmed.

With flat ligation, the rows are laid parallel to each other and interconnected using a flexible connection.

Sometimes, simultaneously with the laying of the wall, it is also finished with bricks, then it is desirable to reinforce both materials using a metal mesh. Or make a bonded dressing with a brick.

Foam block corners

The corners also need dressing. The corner laying of the foam block is carried out in the manner shown in the figure, where 1 - foam concrete block, 2 - seam. The main requirement is that the masonry seam should fall exactly in the middle of the block. Offset is acceptable, but this affects the quality of the construction of the house.

2. Laying the inner (bearing) wall of the foam block

Let us immediately note we are talking about the internal load-bearing wall, which is laid on the foundation, and not about the partition. To join two foam concrete walls together, you can use several tricks:

dressing to the full depth of the foam block. In this case, the block is, as it were, wedged into the masonry outer wall fully;

ligation on part of the block. Usually the block "sits down" in the place prepared for it. The depth of wedging the block into the masonry of the outer wall is 150-200 mm. depending on block width;

butt ligation, i.e. dressing is not performed, and the foam block is installed close to the block that forms the outer wall.

Masters unanimously agree that the first option is the most preferable. When using the other two options, additional reinforcement should be performed (with the introduction of reinforcement into the masonry of the outer wall) every 3-4 rows.

3. Laying partitions from foam blocks - technology

The construction of partitions from the foam block is possible, both at the construction stage and in an already functioning house. In the first case, the foundation will play the role of the foundation, in the second case, the floor (concrete or wooden).

Dimensions of foam blocks for partitions

For the construction of partitions, foam blocks of the D300-500 brand, 100 and 200 mm thick, can be used. The choice of the thickness of the foam concrete block directly depends on the purpose of the partition. If it is designed to separate the heated and unheated area, a thicker (wider) block should be selected.

Technology of installation of foam concrete partitions

the surface of the floor and walls is cleaned of debris and primed;

markings are made on the floor, wall and ceiling. For this, a rope is used or an even strip is drawn with chalk (marker). Moreover, first you need to correctly mark the ceiling, and only then, using a plumb line, transfer the markers to the floor. So the wall will be perfectly flat;

Advice. For marking, it is convenient to use a coated (coloring) cord.

the floor surface is covered with roofing felt, it will play the role of a sound insulator for partitions or a special rolled sound insulator (sometimes this stage is skipped);

pieces of reinforcement are mounted on the floor surface. Their purpose is to support the first row of blocks;

a cement-sand mortar or adhesive mixture is applied to a part of the floor and wall (in accordance with the dimensions of the foam block);

the first block is installed close to the wall. Its setting is checked by the level;

the installation of the first block of the second row also has its own specifics, it lies in the fact that the foam block needs to be “tied” to the wall. To do this, you can punch holes in the wall and insert reinforcement between the wall and a number of blocks. Reinforcement length 200-250 mm. It is wound into the wall for half its length. And you can use flexible reinforcement using, for example, an EC-bracket for attaching a profile for drywall;

the second row of blocks must be installed with a mixture of at least 25% of the block width;

reinforcement of partitions from foam blocks is carried out without fail: the three lower rows of masonry, as well as every second (with a foam block thickness of 100 mm) or every third (if the thickness exceeds 100 mm);

if you plan to make two partitions at an angle to each other, it is better to think about reinforcement in a timely manner. To do this, you can build at the same time or leave in the first row part of the reinforcement bar for laying the second row;

since the interior wall is not a load-bearing one, a thermal gap of 10-15 mm is provided between the ceiling and the last row of foam blocks. Its purpose is to level the possible shrinkage of the house. The gap is sealed with mounting foam. Foam is applied to both sides of the wall.

Note. With a gap not exceeding 50 mm, the craftsmen advise not to cut the block, because it is difficult to cut off 35-40 mm of foam concrete (despite the fact that it is perfectly cut), but to lay polystyrene foam or dense foam between the wall and ceiling

Do-it-yourself foam block laying - video

4. The device of openings in the house of foam concrete

Window or door openings, arches, columns, all these elements are typical for private construction. The use of foam concrete does not impose any restrictions on the arrangement of such structures. Moreover, in a place where, according to the plan, there should be an opening, it is not necessary to initially make even masonry. It is quite possible to leave protrusions on half of the foam block, which are then easily cut off with a saw.

How to make a hole in the wall of foam blocks

The opening from above or around the entire perimeter is made using ordinary foam blocks. They are laid on a base, which can be used as:

metal corners. The width of the corner is determined by the width of the foam block, and should be at least 2/3, and preferably half of its width. For example, with a block width of 100 mm, you need to use a 40x40 corner. The corner is inserted into the foam concrete wall at a distance equal to at least the length of one block;

bar reinforced concrete lintels. It should be noted that such a jumper is a continuous bridge of cold and needs additional insulation;

removable formwork for the foam block, in which reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured. The formwork is disassembled after the concrete has set. Supports must be installed under the formwork to support the weight of the structure. Supports are removed one month after completion of work. During this time, the foam concrete bulkhead will gain the necessary strength. In the future, the strength of concrete will increase, which makes it an ideal material for forming openings.

Formwork can be mounted for both straight and round openings.

Note. With an opening width of more than 1,200 mm, it is recommended to form an opening only using removable formwork. Thus, the possibility of its sagging under the load of the house is excluded.

U-shaped aerated concrete block. The tray block must be reinforced without fail. Installation of the U-block is allowed only if the house is subject to external decoration.

5. The device of floors in the house of foam blocks

After installation last row foam concrete, it's time to form a reinforcing belt. The device of the armored belt consists in the manufacture of a removable formwork, followed by reinforcement and pouring of concrete. The formwork is installed so that the width of the belt is equal to the width of the foam concrete wall, and the height reaches 200-300 mm (depending on what will be installed on the armored belt). The connected reinforcement is placed in the formwork and poured with concrete. The reinforcing belt, like a foundation, is made around the entire perimeter of the foam concrete house, including internal load-bearing walls.

Note. Filling the entire belt is performed at a time. Concrete is covered with a film to ensure uniform solidification.

Hollow reinforced concrete slabs, wooden floor beams or a Mauerlat, on which the rafter system is mounted, are installed on the armored belt.

sand-cement mixture or foam concrete adhesive is prepared in small portions. The fastening (adhesive) characteristics of the solutions correspond to the declared ones within 1.5-2.5 hours after manufacture (kneading);

the installed block can be adjusted within 5-15 minutes. (depending on the adhesive manufacturer). If you do the laying of foam blocks with your own hands, then it is better to use the solution, the adjustment time of which is longer. In practice, this means that the work will take longer, but the likelihood of spoiling the masonry is less. After all, the foam block, subject to the use of good glue, can be dismantled (knocked out) only with damage;

the right time for laying foam blocks is spring and autumn. Optimally, when the surface of the block has a temperature of +5 to +25 ° C, otherwise, you need to use masonry mortars with anti-frost additives;

to simplify the masonry, the foam blocks need to be moistened. Thus, dust is removed from the surface of the block, which increases the adhesion of cellular concrete;

glue is best applied with a notched trowel;

a rubber hammer is used to level the block, and after the glue has hardened, a planer or grater;

each row is checked by level and plumb;

when reinforcing the rows, the reinforcement is laid only on the glue, thus eliminating voids under the reinforcement.

Note. It is possible to proceed with further finishing of the foam concrete house with plaster a month after the erection of the walls. This is due to a significant shrinkage rate of the foam block cottage - up to 3 mm per 1 running meter.

The cost of laying foam blocks per m3 and a piece

the price for laying foam block partitions starts from 230 rubles / sq.m. The cost is determined by the complexity of the masonry and the configuration of the wall, openings;

the laying of load-bearing (external or internal) walls made of foam concrete will cost the customer much more.

Examples of calculating the cost of masonry are shown in the table

Conclusion

As can be seen from the article, even a beginner who does not have practical experience in construction can lay a foam block with his own hands. Due to the size of the foam block, the work will progress quite quickly. The main thing is to lay the foam blocks correctly, in compliance with the technology, this ensures that the house will last without overhaul long time.