The location of the toilet in a private house. Bathroom layout (41 photos): design ideas. Installation of a gravity sewer system

A wooden house has many features that affect the arrangement of a bathroom. Therefore, before making a bathroom in wooden house, you should consider the entire construction process, as well as familiarize yourself with the basic requirements of the premises. The device of a bathroom in a wooden house should be carried out in stages, taking into account all the requirements.

It will be necessary to equip a bathroom in a wooden house, taking into account a number of factors that affect the construction process. These factors are associated with the negative features of the structure of wood:

  • the tree has a high sensitivity to moisture, which leads to the appearance of fungus and the destruction of the material;
  • the first seasons after construction, shrinkage and drying of the structure will occur;
  • during different seasons, the geometry of the structure will vary, i.e. during wetter periods, the structure will be larger.

A toilet room in a constructed wooden building should be equipped in accordance with all the rules with the correct sequence of work. This will improve the house for many years. Otherwise, a room with a bathroom will require repair in a few years.

The order of arrangement should not be violated, that is, the bathroom is installed in the following sequence:

  • determining the location of the bathroom and the required dimensions;
  • sewer development;
  • ventilation;
  • water connection;
  • laying waterproofing;
  • installation of plumbing and necessary devices;
  • finishing and finishing work.

At right order and the absence of violations of construction work, the bathroom will serve for a long time.

You can not save on materials and elements of the room, as well as on plumbing. The worse the original materials are, the more often you will have to do secondary repairs later.

Plan development

The development of a plan for arranging a bathroom is the initial stage. The layout of the premises and construction must be subordinated to the main important points that are directly related to the arrangement:

  • the number of people using this room and plumbing;
  • the number of bathrooms to be installed;
  • location in the building;
  • calculation of all plumbing that will be needed in the arrangement of the premises, as well as its dimensions;
  • basic requirements and ease of placement in the room;
  • calculation of materials and means.

In addition to these points, there are a number of features in terms of location. This series includes the main recommendations that will allow you to place a bathroom or bathrooms in accordance with the norms.

  • the room should be located next to the living room or below, but not above the floor;
  • in a multi-storey building with several sanitary facilities, the location of the bathrooms is made according to vertical bar i.e. one above the other. This allows you to equip all secondary systems, including drains and sewers, on the same line;
  • the room must have at least one external wall to facilitate the installation of ventilation;
  • the sewer riser should be located within three meters from the bathroom, and the bathroom one meter. If the distance is increased, then additional pumping equipment for forced outflow will be required.

The layout also includes ventilation and sewerage layouts. The installation locations of all plumbing equipment are marked.

The dimensions of plumbing, as well as secondary structures, must be indicated in advance, that is, the room is marked out beforehand before work begins.

Regulated norms for planning and placement

When planning, standards should be applied that will extend the longevity of the bathroom. Placement of plumbing should be carried out taking into account the requirements:

  • the minimum size of the restroom - height - 1.2 meters, width - 0.8 meters;
  • the toilet is combined with a washbasin - 1.6 by 2.2 meters;
  • combining a bathroom with a bath or shower - 2.2 by 2.2 meters;
  • a small room should be equipped with hanging cabinets and sinks. This will provide more space;
  • in larger premises, the distribution of plumbing and furniture is carried out evenly, without the formation of empty and completely filled areas.

However, in accordance with the regulation construction works for the arrangement of bathrooms in a wooden house, it is necessary to follow the standards for placement:

  • from the washbasin to the wall, the distance is twenty centimeters or more;
  • the axes of the drain pipes are located no closer than 0.7 meters from each other;
  • the space near the sink is more than 0.7 meters;
  • the bathroom is installed taking into account that the closest object or equipment is removed by at least 70 centimeters;
  • the toilet and sink should be located at a minimum distance of 25 centimeters.

The calculation for the construction should provide that the room with a bathroom and a toilet occupies no more than 25 percent of the entire building area. A bathroom in a frame house made of wood is installed according to the parameters of a solid wooden structure.

Step-by-step instructions for self-arrangement

After planning and distribution of plumbing and additional equipment on the area, the first stage of work begins - the installation of sewage. When placing and arranging the sewer system, it is worth considering the features wooden house.

  • a metal pipe should not be used, since during seasonal or temporary subsidence of the frame base, the metal is deformed. A more acceptable material would be plastic or metal-plastic. It is worth choosing a pipe material with elasticity and resistance to low temperature conditions;
  • sealing is ensured by the use of clamps and rubber gaskets at the joints. Flexible suspensions and a stable mount are also needed, which will hold the channel when the building shrinks;
  • the wall pass is equipped with a special gutter, which is protected by a metal frame. The primary base of a rigid type should be located on the floor of the first floor, while the connection with the frame base of the house is excluded;
  • pipe insulation must be carried out in accordance with fire and building recommendations. Intermittent residence may be taken into account in the form of a faucet draining water from the system. The crane is installed at the lowest point of the system.

After the complete installation of the sewer channels, ventilation is fully equipped. In wooden buildings, it is necessary to eliminate wet fumes from the room. When arranging a room in a wooden structure, it is required to lay full-fledged ventilation ducts with access to the attic.

Standard ventilation holes during construction in this case they will not be suitable, since they will not fully provide the necessary level of air exchange. The ventilation duct is laid through the floors. Fasteners must have compensation gaps for stability during shrinkage or seasonal changes in the frame shape.

Installation Features:

  • direct contact of the system is excluded by mounting on delivery using special brackets;
  • fans are used, provided with protection against moisture;
  • all material base used in construction should not be classified as combustible;
  • If desired ventilation system powered by lighting, which allows it to turn on simultaneously with lighting fixtures in the room.

The next step will be the complete waterproofing of the bathroom in a wooden house. This includes the arrangement of the entire room. Waterproofing is carried out in a complex, since the entire wooden surface must be protected from moisture. A special waterproof and vapor-tight shell is created. In this case, the first stage will be the treatment of wood with an antiseptic.

Further work is carried out according to the following plan:

  • waterproofing of walls and ceilings is carried out with a liquid insulating compound, which is applied with a brush. The waterproofing material can be bitumen or polymer. A feature of the wooden surface is that for its processing in the composition liquid waterproofing should be latex and antiseptic. Several layers are created, after which the wall is equipped with waterproofing materials;
  • the ceiling must be suspended or suspended. This will allow good ventilation;
  • the floor in the bathroom of a wooden house must be flat and durable. In addition, the first floor is made using a concrete screed or a polymer base;
  • the first stage of floor insulation is carried out using coating mastic. After that, the floor is lowered three to four centimeters below the main level of other rooms;
  • sills are mounted, the entire surface of the floor is covered ceramic tiles or cork slab.

After waterproofing the premises, plumbing equipment is installed in previously marked areas.

Plumbing should not have joints with a wooden surface. Special compensating gaps are made. Also, plumbing should not come into contact with furniture.

The final stage of the arrangement of the premises will be finishing work. Requires the use of waterproof waterproofing material. This stage completes the complete arrangement of the premises.

Construction work on the improvement of a wooden house or a sanitary room must be carried out by a specialist or under the supervision of a specialist who has the necessary experience. In addition, the use of high-quality materials, as well as phased arrangement, allows you to bypass all the negative characteristics of a wooden structure.

We love to go to visit my grandmother, she lives in the village, in a private house. Your garden, farming, nature, in a word, grace. Except one but. The toilet is outside and that says it all. We decided at the family council to eliminate this defect!

Preparatory work for the construction of a toilet in a village house

Except one but. The toilet is outside and that says it all. We decided at the family council to eliminate this defect!

Grandma's house, though old, but made to last! Five-wall, the main room is a chopped log house, and a utility room, warm and quite spacious. It has a gas boiler with water heating function.

This is where we decided to place the bathroom. The wooden floor has been removed. We freed the room from all the rubbish, in a word, we prepared a front of work!

We decided to make a toilet in a village house measuring 180 by 120 centimeters. Just right, so that the door from the house could open freely and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet was comfortable enough for this room.

The base for pouring the base was laid out of white silicate brick, since a lot of it remained after the cladding of the house. They did everything as carefully as possible so as not to damage the ongoing communications.

They decided to level the walls with a ceiling profile for drywall. Installed using building level, and fastened it to ordinary "swallows". We decided not to do all the work twice, at the same time to make the ceiling, but about it another time!

The walls of the future toilet were sheathed with 12 mm drywall. They did it quickly, because this procedure does not cause labor with a prepared crate.

Since the house is rustic, they tried to preserve the style of the rustic interior by using floral wallpaper and inserting a rustic door. By the way, I had to redo the door to the house, when it was opened, it closed part of the doorway to the toilet and created certain inconveniences.

However, if you have a good tool and a little experience, work for half an hour! By the way, have you noticed that she is like a twin brother with a bathroom door?

This is what our bathroom looks like from the outside. We noticed that the floor has changed, we raised it concrete screed and the ceiling was covered PVC panels. The beauty!

Tiles 20 * 30 were glued to the walls, they are usually easier to lay than smaller ones. Grout Ceresit. The floor was not made warm. Grandma still wears slippers, and the room is warm enough in winter.

For laying tiles did not begin to prepare cement mortar, a lot of dirt and troublesome, just purchased tile glue and installed all the tiles on drywall. For the floor, they took a mixture for laying tiles. It took about a day to work.

So, in just two weekend visits to our beloved grandmother, we made such a comfortable toilet in a private village house with our own hands!

Now the guests are more willing to agree to stay overnight, all the same convenience without leaving home.

Always remember that our comfort is in our hands!

Well-maintained toilet in a private house in the village - a master class with a photo, Do it yourself


How to make a toilet in a village house with your own hands, see the master class with step by step photos

How to make a toilet in a private house, design and arrangement

Choosing a place for a toilet in a private house

The ideal place for arranging the future toilet is considered to be a finished room like a small pantry. It is desirable that it be located closer to the drain well.

Things are much more difficult when there is no suitable room. Then, to install the toilet, you should find a free corner. There is nothing wrong with the fact that such a place can only be in the kitchen. In this case, a home-made toilet is fenced off with a solid partition, and the entrance is made by cutting it through from an adjacent room, therefore unpleasant odors do not interfere with eating. In this case, you can use materials such as chipboard, lining, drywall, etc.

Arrangement of sewerage in a private house

Depending on the variant of transportation of sewage and waste, sewage can be:

  • pressure (forced);
  • non-pressure (gravity).

The pressure structure uses a fecal pump to move the waste. As for the gravity drain, it occurs due to the slope of the pipes. When solving the problem of how to make a toilet in a private house, you can use any option, depending on the circumstances.

Gravity sewer system

Efficient work a similar design can be ensured if the slope parameters are strictly observed - it must be constant and uniform throughout the entire length of the pipe. Most often, during installation, they allow the creation of too steep a slope. The fact is that the very fast movement of drains does not allow them to fill the pipe completely and for this reason the inner surface is poorly washed.

In the case when the slope is less than permissible, the flow speed slows down and this moment is a big drawback. It is necessary to ensure such a ratio between the filling of the pipe and the speed of sewage movement so that self-cleaning occurs during its operation. Otherwise, plaque will appear on the inner surface of the pipeline, preventing the discharge of effluents and contributing to the formation of blockages.

Pressure sewer system

In some cases, the arrangement of a toilet with a gravity sewer is problematic. Laying pipes with a diameter of about 100 millimeters through partitions and walls is quite difficult. Problems can be circumvented by installing a pressure sewer, the main element of which is a fecal pump.

The design of the sewerage system in the house

For laying sewerage in the house good choice are polypropylene pipes, which are durable, lightweight and able to withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees without deformation. The last advantage is useful when connecting to this site washing machine or someone will pour boiling water down the toilet.

Plastic sewerage is assembled easily, as if it were a children's designer. Installation starts from the lowest point, for which the next element is inserted into the socket of the previous part, but before that, a sealant is applied to the end of the fitting or pipe.

Before each turn, at the bottom of the risers and at the place where the sewer exits the house, revisions should be made. If there is a need to combine a new plastic pipe with an old cast iron product, the connection is sealed with a special rubber cuff.

  • there is no need to go around the corners, since the pipes will be laid in the shortest way, and this will save materials and time, which means money;
  • sewer pipes will not occupy the space at the bottom of the room.

The elements that make up the pressure sewer are connected together by welding or using flanges. Depending on the characteristics of the fecal pump, the diameter of the pipes can vary between 20-40 millimeters. Laying can be done both from the outside, and under the floor or in a wall strobe.

How to make a sewer outside

The design of the toilet involves laying the outer part of the sewer in a trench, the depth of which depends on the climate in the region. Pipes at the same time use different ones - from asbestos, cement, cast iron, plastic and ceramics. The most popular are plastic products, such as in the photo.

Toilet installation

  1. Usually in own houses the floors are made of wood, so before you make a toilet in a private house, they should be leveled, strengthened and laid with linoleum. When the neck of the pipe is located above the outlet of the plumbing fixture, it must be raised. The podium can be made from a wide board or pieces of timber. If the installation is planned on a concrete floor (for example, on the basement floor), then brick and cement will be required. The wood must be carefully coated with drying oil and painted.
  2. Most often, the connection to the sewer can be made directly: a cuff with an o-ring is inserted into the pipe, and the toilet bowl outlet is inserted into it. In the case when this is not possible, a plastic eccentric or a corrugated cuff is used.
  3. Connecting to a fecal pump will not cause difficulties, since the inlet on it is located at a standard height, and everything that is needed for docking is available.
  4. After the toilet is installed in the place intended for it, and after making sure that it is securely docked with sewer pipe, mark the holes. Then the plumbing is removed to the side and the floor is drilled. A set of fasteners is usually included with the toilet. It consists of self-tapping screws, plastic dowels, washers and decorative caps.

How to make a toilet in a private house: arrangement, design in photo and video


How to make a toilet in a private house: arrangement, design in photo and video

Warm toilet and sewerage system in a village house

Many private houses built in Soviet times did not provide for the installation of a warm toilet, but had only a separate object, which is extremely inconvenient to get to in cold or rainy weather. Therefore, it is necessary to resolve this situation and install a warm toilet with sewerage in a village house on its own.

Choosing a place for the toilet

In order to make a minimum effort for equipping the toilet, it is necessary to find a ready-made room that is suitable for construction standards. It should be a small room, with an area of ​​at least 3 m2 to accommodate the toilet and all necessary accessories. The ideal option would be to place it near one of the outer walls, which will ensure a minimum distance to the cesspool or local sewerage. If such a room is located inside the house and does not border on outer wall, then the implementation of connecting the toilet to the sewer will become somewhat more complicated due to the laying of pipes in the basement.

wooden toilet and shower with sewerage system

Another option could be to equip a toilet inside a dwelling with the installation of partitions and summing up all communications. The advantage in this case will be the creation of sufficient space and its location in any convenient place. However, in this case, living space will be lost and the implementation of the project will be very difficult.

The main requirements that should be followed when choosing a place for a toilet are as follows:

  1. Minimum distance to the point of discharge of sewage or to the local sewer system.
  2. The room should not be located near the place of eating or sleeping.
  3. It will be possible to freely introduce pipes into the toilet with cold water, drain and equip ventilation.

If sewerage and water supply are introduced into the house, then you can immediately place a bathroom and a bathroom in the same room near the entry point. This will save on installation work oh and building materials.

The main nuances of connecting to the sewer

Laying the sewer to the toilet is qualitatively divided into two stages: external and internal. External consists in laying sewer pipes to local, centralized or storage systems. Internal involves the installation of piping and plumbing.

construction of a warm separate toilet with sewerage

External piping should be carried out taking into account the following factors:

  1. Depth of soil freezing. It has a strong influence on the operation of the sewerage system and therefore must be strictly taken into account. For central Russia, it ranges from 0.8 m. Additionally, protection from stronger frosts should be provided and pipes should be insulated.
  2. The distance to local treatment facilities should, on the one hand, be minimal, and on the other hand, comply with sanitary and building standards. The minimum distance is 15 m, and the slope of the pipe per linear meter is at least 30.
  3. The choice of pipe type depends on the heaving and density of the soil. In places of high soil mobility, it is necessary to use cast-iron pipes, and in other cases, plastic pipes are recommended.

When creating internal communications, the main problem will be the choice of how to install the toilet. This is due to the fact that it will require a rigid and durable foundation, which is absent in most village houses, and it is impractical to install on wooden floors for the reason that warm floors cannot be laid on them. Therefore, most likely, it will be necessary to pour concrete floors with all the costs and labor that result from this.

Filling toilet floors

Before carrying out installation work, the room must be completely emptied and cleaned of dirt. This will accurately assess the condition of the walls and ceilings. If there are any defects, they will need to be corrected.

toilet sewer system

If wooden floors are laid, then they will need to be dismantled. Then, along the perimeter of the room, it is necessary to dig a pit to a depth of 40-50 cm with leveling the bottom and careful tamping. It is important not to damage the main foundation. After that, you need to fill the bottom with a layer of sand, 30 cm thick and carefully tamp or spill it with plenty of water. A layer of crushed stone with a grain size of up to 10 mm is poured over the sand, leveled and rammed.

At the next stage, you need to bring the sewer pipe outside the building through the foundation. This will require the use of a diamond drilling machine to prevent loss of bearing capacity of the base due to cracking or partial failure. The hole diameter must be at least 100 mm. The depth of the exit of the outer part of the pipe from the outside must be below the freezing level. Indoors, the height of the pipe should be 15-20 cm higher than the floor level. To prevent foreign objects from entering the pipe, it must be closed on both sides with a tight plug.

Then, overlapping waterproofing material is laid at the bottom of the trench with careful sealing of the joints. After that, a reinforcing mesh with a rod diameter of 4-6 mm and a mesh size of more than 5x5 cm is laid. A solution of M300 grade concrete is poured over it. Thorough mixing will be required to remove air bubbles. The surface must be carefully smoothed. Until the solution solidifies, they measure the places for attaching the toilet bowl and insert vertically steel pins with a thread cut from above into them.

After that, a system of electric underfloor heating is installed on the prepared surface, taking into account all the recommendations of the manufacturer. If the house has a heating water circuit, then you can connect instead electrical system water, but at the same time, the heating of the toilet will be noticeably slower, and the height of the floors due to the laying of pipes will be about 5-10 cm higher, depending on the laying technology and the diameter of the pipes used.

On top of the warm floors, a screed is made and tiles are laid.

Wall and ceiling insulation

Prepared walls for repairs must be marked for installation of battens for drywall sheets. The distance between the nearest rails is chosen so that it is from 1 to 1.5 m and the crate is evenly spaced along the walls. It is advisable to use special metal profile rails. They are placed in a strictly vertical position close to the wall and fixed to self-tapping screws with an interval of 15-20 cm. Then the entire surface of the walls is laid with a waterproofing film overlapping with an interval of 15 cm and glued with a special adhesive tape or adhesive tape. Mineral wool is tightly laid inside the gaps between the slats of the crate. A vapor barrier layer is laid on top of the mineral wool layer, similar to a waterproofing layer. If the walls are thin, then you need to additionally lay soundproof material. Then, drywall sheets with a thickness of at least 12 mm are installed end-to-end, the joints are smeared with putty and the surface is leveled. The ceiling is insulated in the same way, only thinner sheets of drywall with a thickness of up to 8 mm are used.

connecting a separate toilet to the common communications system of a private house

After that, the inner surface of the walls and ceiling is plastered, and then laid out with tiles or finished with waterproof plaster.

Toilet installation

The installation of a toilet bowl in a wooden house is carried out directly on steel pins pre-installed in the floor at the time of pouring the concrete floor. To do this, it is necessary to lay a dense cork or rubber gasket at the installation site to ensure tight contact of the toilet heel with the floor surface. Then the toilet bowl is taken, placed on top of the gasket and the bolts are tightened. The main thing at the same time is to observe the same clamping of the nuts in order to prevent distortion and damage to the heel. Therefore, the nuts must be tightened alternately while tightening about half a turn. The moment when the toilet bowl became completely stable and motionless indicates its correct installation. Then, a drain tank is mounted on special fasteners on the surface of the bowl.

The toilet is connected to the sewer pipe using a corrugated flexible hose with rubber seals. The outer part of the connecting joints must be coated with a silicone-based sealant. After that, the toilet bowl can be connected to a pipe with cold water, which should be stretched from the nearest point.

Laying external sewer pipes

A toilet in a wooden house with sewerage involves connecting the toilet to already laid internal communications and will not require external work. Otherwise, it will be necessary to carry out earthworks and, possibly, install local treatment facilities or connect to a centralized system.

construction of a separate wooden house for the bathroom

Digging a trench is carried out in accordance with the scheme for laying an external sewer system, which was thought out at the planning stage. Its depth should be at least 0.8 m, and the bottom should have a slope towards the drain Wastewater at an angle of 30 per linear meter.

A sand cushion with a thickness of 30 cm is laid at the bottom of the trench and carefully leveled and compacted. Then, from the pipe brought out from the house, a sewer system is laid directly to a local or centralized sewage discharge point. For laying, it is desirable to install metal-plastic pipes with a diameter of more than 100 mm and, if possible, as long as possible in order to minimize the number of joints and reduce the likelihood of leaks.

When all pipe communications are connected, it is necessary to check the functionality of the toilet. To do this, open the water supply to the tank, monitor the degree of its filling and, if necessary, immediately adjust. Turn on the underfloor heating system and set the required degree of heating. Then they drain the water from the tank and inspect all the joints of the pipes and the joints with the toilet. If any deficiencies were found, they are immediately eliminated. External communications are examined in the same way. In the absence of leaks, the insulation is installed on top of the external sewer pipes, and then the trench is buried.

Warm toilet with sewerage in a village house


Many private houses built in Soviet times did not provide for the installation of a warm toilet, but had only a separate object.

How to make a house

DIY rustic toilet: types, construction options

Recently, people often began to buy country plots to build a cozy house, a bathhouse on them. All this people do in order to come there on vacation or on vacation. As a rule, the first building after the acquisition of the site is a toilet. We can somehow manage without a house, a bathhouse and a shower, but there is no such building as a toilet.

In most cases, a rustic toilet is the first experience in construction. It's good that the village toilet is not a complex structure and a person even without experience in construction can handle it. Although the village toilet is not considered a complex building, there are some nuances that need to be considered.

Construction of a village toilet

So, how to build a rustic toilet:

  • You must select the type of toilet;
  • It is necessary to determine where the latrine will be located;
  • It is necessary to determine the dimensions and select materials for construction;
  • Start building.

And now we will analyze each stage in more detail.

Village toilet type

Before you start building a toilet, you need to decide on its type. And we are talking not about the house itself, but about its internal structure.

There are several types of rural toilets.

So, according to the type of device, they can be divided into groups:

  1. With a cesspool device;
  2. No cesspool.

In the event that the level ground water on your site is higher than three and a half meters, then your choice is limited to a device toilet without pit. Such restrictions apply to places where there are natural cracks or soil of shale rocks.

Consider the option of a rustic toilet with cesspool.

With cesspool

If you chose pit toilet, then it must be borne in mind that the depth of the pit should be one meter less than the groundwater level.

The volume of the pit depends on the number of people and the frequency of visits. For example, if your family consists of 2 or 3 people, then a pit with a volume of one and a half cubes will be enough for you.

If you want to equip a toilet in the country, then the volume of the cesspool can be made smaller.

The shape of the container can be any, but most often it is made square, in rare cases round.

The walls of the container can be lined with brick, concrete, rubble masonry, wood that has been treated with resin.

The container is also made of concrete rings, but in this case, the bottom and joints must be sealed with special compounds so that there are no leaks.

The cesspool must be equipped with a ventilation system. That is, a large-diameter pipe is installed in the pit, the second end of the pipe (it should be 50-70 cm above the toilet roof).

Also, a window for ventilation is made in the toilet itself, it can be located above the door or one of the side walls.

If the pit is filled with more than two thirds of the volume, then the contents are pumped out using special equipment.

Exist two types of organization of the drain pit This:


Normal.
The pit is located directly under the house;

Backlash - closet. The pit is on the sidelines. With this option, you can also place the toilet in the house (make a warm village toilet), and all the sewage will drain through the pipes (which are laid at a slope), then falling into the tank.

The backlash-closet device is suitable for a house in which people live permanently, but for a summer residence this option will be too expensive.

When installing a backlash - a closet, it will be necessary to equip full ventilation, provide a supply of water for flushing, and drain pipes must also be laid lower than the soil freezes through. And the cesspool is lowered lower, because the drain pipes must have a certain slope (2-3 meters).

Without cesspool

A toilet without a cesspool is built faster, since all waste accumulates in them in an airtight container (it is placed right under the toilet seat) The difference is in how waste is processed and odors are neutralized.

Exist the following types:

In this case, a container with peat, sawdust, ash, earth or a mixture of the above components is placed in the booth.

This name arose because the waste is, as it were, powdered with the above powders.


A kind of powder is a closet; crushed peat is used to sprinkle waste.

These types of toilets are also produced on an industrial scale.

Industrial peat toilets are similar to cistern toilets, but the cistern is not filled with water, but with peat crumbs.


In such a toilet, waste is poured into a container in which a solution containing microorganisms is poured. These organisms are engaged in the processing of waste.

Such booths are often installed in public places.

Dry closets are sold together with plastic cubicles, as well as separately (toilet with a container)


This type of toilet is very similar to a dry closet, but chemicals are used to process waste. Such substances are produced in the form of tablets or powders. Waste treated with chemicals cannot be used as fertilizer. Waste from such a toilet can only be drained into the sewer and this should be done periodically.

The positive qualities of pit latrines are obvious:


Such toilets also have negative qualities:

  1. Industrial toilets are not cheap;
  2. There is a need to change the tank;
  3. It is necessary to monitor the availability of means of neutralizing waste.

Installation norms

These regulations are necessary in order to limit possible contamination. And so the rules are:


And so on the site plan it is necessary to choose a place that will satisfy all the requirements.

Norms required for all types of toilets:


How to make a rustic toilet with your own hands?

You have already taken the initial steps, these were the choice of the type of toilet and its location. The next step is to choose the size of the toilet. It will not be difficult to determine these parameters. We have already described to you how to determine the volume of the cesspool you need (for 2-3 people, the volume of the pit should be 1.5 cubic meters).

Most often, toilet houses are made of wood. But a rustic toilet house can also be made from other suitable materials, such as GVL, fiberboard, etc.

Usually the roof of a village toilet is covered with slate. Such material is relatively inexpensive and lasts quite a long time.

But for the roof of the toilet, you can take another suitable material, as they fix the roof on a continuous crate.

The final stage is the construction of a village toilet.

If you are making a pit latrine, make a pit first.

Consider how to make a cesspool.

First of all, a pit is dug in a suitable place, with dimensions 30-40 centimeters larger than the future drain pit.

Then clay is laid on the bottom and rammed. The layers must be laid without voids, this is necessary so that sewage does not fall into the soil.

Then the bottom and walls are laid out of brick, buta or wood impregnated with resin. The most important factor is that the walls and the bottom should not let moisture through, so the walls of the pit are plastered and coated with special waterproofing agents.

Soaked clay is laid between the walls of the drain pit and the soil.

Then a ceiling is laid on top of the pit, it is made of boards.

Two holes are left in the ceiling, for the toilet seat and for the hatch.

The hatch for pumping out waste is made double so that unpleasant odors do not penetrate outside.

Next, they are engaged in the installation of a ventilation pipe and only then they build a toilet house.

You can buy toilet houses at ready-made or build it out of wood by making it rectangular shape with shed roof, with your own hands.

If you do not want to strain yourself with a waterproofing device, masonry walls and bottom, then you can easily install a plastic tank (septic tank) in the pit. Such tanks are produced in different sizes and designs.

Well, in this article we told you about how to build a rustic toilet on your site with your own hands. Good luck!

How to build a rustic toilet with your own hands: types, norms


Construction of a village toilet. In this article, we will consider the types of rustic toilets, as well as the nuances that must be considered during construction and installation.

The convenience and trouble-free operation of its operation depends on how correctly you design a bathroom in a wooden house. In addition, following certain rules when designing will allow you to save your budget and time. Besides, great importance has a selection of designs, finishing materials and arrangement of the finished bathroom.

In this article you will find a design guide as well as helpful tips concerning the arrangement of the bathroom.

Bathroom design

A bathroom in a wooden house can be designed without much reference to SNiP and SanPiN, but certain rules must still be observed here. So you can avoid all sorts of surprises and problems in the process of organizing a bathroom in the country, with your own hands.

Where to begin?

First of all, we need a floor plan of the whole house, with the location of sewer risers, ventilation ducts and water pipes indicated on them. This is if the house is almost completed and the wiring of all systems is completed. If the house is at the design stage, then you will have more freedom in designing the bathroom.

Here are some questions to ask at this stage:

  • The number of people, and, accordingly, the number of rooms for which it is necessary to allocate bathrooms.
  • Own wishes regarding the filling of the toilet or bathroom in log house– presence or absence of a bidet, replacement of a bathtub with a shower cabin, etc.
  • Does any of the future tenants have needs in connection with which the toilet or bathroom needs to be enlarged or specially equipped.
  • The maximum budget you can allocate to all jobs.
Attention: based on this data, you can make calculations of the minimum and maximum size, as well as the number of bathrooms. You can make a sketch of the designed room, by hand or in a computer program.

The device of a bathroom in a wooden house: a preliminary layout

Choosing the location of the bathroom

First of all, it is necessary to say about a few rules that should be followed when choosing a place. The order in the list corresponds to the importance of the items:

  1. The bathroom should not be located above the living quarters, if we are talking about a two- or three-story house. Failure to comply with this paragraph may lead to problems when registering a finished house.
  2. Bathrooms located on different floors in a village house should be located one above the other. Here we are talking about the convenience of connecting to sewerage, water supply and the use of ventilation ducts.
  3. The toilet is installed no more than 1 m from the riser, and a bath or shower cabin - no more than 3 m. This should be taken into account when arranging a separate bathroom in log house. This distance ensures optimal outflow of water into the sewer. Increasing it may require the installation of forced outflow pumps.

Bathroom in a house made of timber: location on the plan

Attention: there are still nuances responsible for the comfortable operation of bathrooms in the house. A bathroom in a frame house is best organized next to the bedroom, if we are talking about the second floor, where sleeping areas are most often organized. Perfect option- Entrance directly from the bedroom. And if we are talking about the first floor, where the kitchen and dining area are usually located, then here, on the contrary, the bathroom and the entrance to it should be located away from these premises. But this question is more about ethical standards.

Dimensions of a bathroom in a private house

Size standards exist only for latrines: 80 cm wide and 120 cm deep. For a bath and a combined bathroom, standards exist only in case there is a disabled person in the family. The figures are as follows: a restroom with a washbasin - 160 cm by 220 cm, a combined bathroom or bathroom - 220 cm by 220 cm.

Also, when calculating the size of the bathroom, the following figures should be included:

  • The distance between the axes of washbasin drains is from 70 cm, the free space in front of the sink is from 70 cm.
  • From the wall to the washbasin - from 20 cm, from the washbasin to the toilet - from 25 cm.
  • From the bath to other objects, the distance is from 70 cm.

Here are the minimum numbers, and if you have large areas, then they can be increased at your own discretion.

Installing a bathroom in a private house, in a village: the distance between plumbing

Finishing and design of the bathroom in the house

In this section, we will consider the most popular finishing materials used for bathrooms in private homes. In addition, you will find here three design options for these rooms.

Finishing a bathroom in a wooden house

The most budgetary and easy-to-install option is PVC panels. They are used for finishing walls and ceilings. A wide range of panels will allow you to choose the necessary finish. Even a small shop will most likely be able to offer many options in terms of color, pattern and texture.

Bathroom in a private house. A photo PVC finishes panels

Tiles are no less popular than PVC panels, but this is another price segment, which can not be called budgetary. This finish is used for walls and floors. The tile always looks solid, but if it is laid correctly, it lasts a very long time. True, installing tiles is a complicated matter, and very often requires the involvement of a specialist.

How to do in country house wall decoration

And another material that is not very often used for finishing bathrooms in houses is moisture-resistant drywall. It is versatile, allows you to change the shape of walls, ceilings and doorways. Finishing on drywall, this is usually paint or, more rarely, self-adhesive film. When choosing drywall, you need to remember that the material requires good ventilation in the room.

Bathroom in a log house: plasterboard finish for painting

For country house wall decoration with clapboard will be relevant. The tree is environmentally friendly and creates a healthy microclimate in the room. Well, do not forget about the high decorative qualities of natural wood. It is difficult to talk about the price here, since it all depends on what kind of wood will be used. For example, a budget option- spruce or pine, higher in quality and more expensive - oak. Teak has a higher resistance to moisture, deformation and rot than oak, but it also costs more, respectively.

Photo of a bathroom in a wooden house: clapboard decoration

Design and arrangement of a bathroom in the house

In a wooden house, country style suggests itself. It is better to choose the simplest, imitating antiquity for wall decoration, plumbing and furniture here. In addition, the rustic style does not tolerate excessive pretentiousness. Here, even incompletely finished ones can play into the hands external walls. In the photo you see that the caulked timber is not covered by anything. No polished surfaces: it is better to take a slightly rough stone for finishing, and apply a varnish on the walls that does not hide the texture of the wood.

Bathroom in country house: country style

A chalet-style bathroom will look organic in a wooden house. When designing, we try to approach the image of a log hunting hut. In the example in the photo additional finishing not on the walls, the ceiling and interior partitions left in its original state. But if the walls in your bathroom are made of a different material, then the problem can be solved with a block house. This material will imitate a log. We try to use furniture and accessories to a minimum, only the most necessary.

Attention: a solid natural wood finish will look good only in a large room. And in a small restroom, the pluses of the texture and color of the tree turn into minuses, the room will visually “shrink”.

Bathroom in the country: design photo in the style of a chalet

And of course, a wooden house does not oblige you to arrange everything interior spaces in styles like the ones above. Here you can use design options similar to what you see in the photo below. Registration according to color scheme and interior close to Provencal style. Airy, light design, well suited for rooms that do not have windows to the street.

Bathroom in the country: a photo of a design close to the Provence style

Unlike a city apartment, private house gives practically endless possibilities for decoration. That is why the owners of just such dwellings most often decide on a combined bathroom. But you need to understand that some bold ideas and square meters by no means enough to create a comfortable and functional joint space - it is very important to properly manage the available space. In order for you to succeed, then we will reveal several points of designing a bathroom combined with a toilet: the main advantages and disadvantages of the idea, the stages of creating a project, the planning rules, the features of organizing the resulting space, and in addition - a photo of already equipped bathrooms.

Pros and cons of the combination idea

It makes sense to start design and repair work only if you are sure of the rationality and appropriateness of the combined bathroom in your home. But how do you make the right decision here? There is only one way - to soberly assess the advantages and disadvantages of a bathroom combined with a toilet.

  1. Expansion of usable area. Thanks to the elimination of the wall and one doorway, the dimensions of the bathroom are significantly increased. This, of course, is the main advantage, because crowding has never been a joy to a single person - it provokes not only physical, but also emotional discomfort.
  2. Finishing savings. Due to the absence of one wall, the volume of necessary finishing materials is reduced and, as a result, the cost of facing work is reduced.
  3. Bold design tricks. In a large combined bathroom, you can realize more original ideas design than in two small separate rooms.

Combined bathroom allows you to use space more rationally
  1. Although small, but the cost of finance and time for the preparation and execution of the project.
  2. The close proximity of the toilet and areas of cosmetic and bath procedures - if a large family lives in the house, this can cause some discomfort.

The indicated disadvantages do not scare you? This means that the decision has been made: we begin to study the features of the immediate process of redevelopment.

Stages of creating a design project

The layout of a combined bathroom in a private house will not result in unbearable problems if you correctly draw up a design project. And for this you need to understand all its stages.

First- taking measurements of the premises. At this stage, you need to calculate what will be total area combined room, and the width and height of each of the four walls, ceilings, and floor.

Important! If you are designing a combined bathroom not from scratch, but already in a rebuilt house with a separate bathroom and toilet, before creating a project, you need to dismantle the wall and one of the doors in order to perform accurate area calculations.

Second- zoning space. The new bathroom should have four zones:

  • bathing area: shower or bath;
  • toilet area;
  • area of ​​cosmetic procedures;
  • business area.

The third- determination of the new location of communications: water supply, sewerage, electrical wiring,.

Fourth- thinking over the placement of all appliances, furniture, plumbing equipment.


Zoning in the bathroom

Fifth– direct creation of a design project. Using information about the configuration, zoning and dimensions of the combined unit, you can proceed to drafting a project. Here you have two options: either do the work yourself, using special programs, or contact a specialized company.

Planning rules

How to plan a new combined bathroom in such a way that it turns out to be both functional and comfortable at the same time? To do this, you must follow certain standards and recommendations of experts:

  • Minimum allowable dimensions: total area - 3.8 m, height - 2.5 m, width - 0.8 m, depth - 1.2 m. The maximum possible dimensions are not regulated.
  • The bathroom should not go into the living rooms and the kitchen. The best option- exit to the hallway.
  • The door must open outward.
  • It is recommended to leave a space of 80-100 cm in front of the bath or shower.
  • should be located from the booth or bathroom at approximately arm's length - no more than 70 cm, so that it is within a comfortable reach zone.
  • The sink is recommended to be installed at a height of 80-90 cm.
  • From the entrance to the sink you need to leave about 70 cm free space for the convenience of cosmetic and hygienic procedures.
  • The sink should not be closer than 25 cm to the toilet or bidet.

In a spacious room you can install a large bath

Advice. If you want to install two sinks at once in a combined bathroom, for comfort, it is advisable to maintain at least a minimum distance of 40-50 cm between them.

  • Around the toilet, it is recommended to leave at least 40-60 cm of free space: 60 cm - in front, 40 cm - on the sides.

Although many of these rules are optional, neglecting them is fraught with unpleasant consequences: the bathroom will turn out not only unergonomic, but also overly cluttered, which will provoke its inconvenience and unaesthetic.

Features of the design of the combined bathroom

Another point on which the success of the implementation of the idea of ​​​​a combined bathroom depends is the design features of the new room. In particular, its environment. Here you need to focus on the dimensions and configuration of the bathroom.

If a new room came out rectangular, and the door is located on a long wall, the following layout would be optimal: a bath or a cabin - at one end wall, a washing machine - opposite in the corner, a sink and main shelves and cabinets - at the longitudinal wall approximately opposite the doorway.

If the bathroom is strict square shape, you can try to make it more “soft”: place the bath in a kind of semicircular niche, install an oval sink on the opposite side, and cabinets with neatly rounded corners on the side.

In not very large combined bathrooms, you need to actively use the corners. A great option is a corner countertop with a sink. Under the countertop, you can install a washing machine, and above - shelves for hygiene products. In another corner, you can place a compact shower.

If the doorway is located on the end wall of a rectangular room, use the following scheme: opposite the door - a bath or shower room, along one long wall - a sink with cabinets and shelves for cosmetic and bath accessories, along the second long wall - a cabinet for various household products and a washing machine .

As you can see, if you approach the matter wisely, you can quite successfully cope even with such a difficult task as decorating a bathroom combined with a toilet. In this matter, the most important thing is to give free rein to your design imagination, adhere to all stages and planning rules: if you do not miss a single nuance here, you will get a functional, comfortable and ergonomic space where you can enjoy relaxing procedures for many years.

Bathroom in the house: video

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In the private houses built in the Soviet years, the amenities familiar to modern people are absent: at best, the housing has cold water supply and sewerage to discharge liquid effluents. Toilets with toilets are usually not there, like many other things. It is not difficult to install plumbing, but, unfortunately, in such buildings the project did not provide for either a bathroom or a bathroom, as well as the corresponding engineering communications.

Therefore, solving the problem of how to make a toilet in a private house of an old building can be quite problematic. It will be necessary not only to find a suitable place, but also to bring sewage, water to it and provide ventilation in the bathroom. As a rule, for ventilation, you can install a hood in the toilet in a private house, and this will be enough.

Choosing a place for a toilet in a private house

The ideal place for arranging the future toilet is considered to be a finished room like a small pantry. It is desirable that it be located closer to the drain well.
When the toilet seat is on the other side, the volume increases necessary work, respectively, and costs. As an option, you can consider arranging a combined bathroom in a small room, installing plumbing fixtures in it that will fit: a bath, a toilet, a washbasin, a shower stall, and so on.
Things are much more difficult when there is no suitable room. Then, to install the toilet, you should find a free corner. There is nothing wrong with the fact that such a place can only be in the kitchen. In this case, a home-made toilet is enclosed with a solid partition, and the entrance is made by cutting through it from an adjacent room, so unpleasant odors will not interfere. In this case, you can use materials such as chipboard, lining, drywall, etc. See also: "".

Soundproofing material is placed between the layers of the skin, and then the operation of the bathroom will not disturb the residents. The partition should be built after the completion of the laying of engineering communications, since plumbing work difficult to produce in a limited space.

Arrangement of sewerage in a private house

Depending on the option of transporting sewage and waste, sewage can be:
  • pressure (forced);
  • non-pressure (gravity).
The pressure structure uses a fecal pump to move the waste. As for the gravity drain, it occurs due to the slope of the pipes (more details: ""). If you have not yet decided how to make a toilet in a private house, you can use any option, depending on the circumstances.

Gravity sewer system

The effective operation of such a design can be ensured if the slope parameters are strictly observed - it must be constant and uniform throughout the entire length of the pipe. Most often, when installing a bathroom in a private house with their own hands, they allow the creation of a too steep slope. The fact is that the very fast movement of drains does not allow them to fill the pipe completely and for this reason the inner surface is poorly washed.

In the case when the slope is less than acceptable, the flow speed slows down and this moment is a big disadvantage (read: ""). It is necessary to ensure such a ratio between the filling of the pipe and the speed of sewage movement so that self-cleaning occurs during its operation. Otherwise, plaque will appear on the inner surface of the pipeline, preventing the discharge of effluents and contributing to the formation of blockages.

The use of this device leads to the fact that drain waste can move from bottom to top, despite the fact that the cross section of pipes decreases significantly. Fecal pumps designed for household needs, are distinguished by their compact size, aesthetic appearance, the ability to pump liquid several meters in the vertical direction and tens of meters horizontally. On sale there are toilet bowls with the built-in pump.

Construction device

For laying sewers in a house, polypropylene pipes are a good choice, which are durable, lightweight and able to withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees without deformation. The last advantage comes in handy when a washing machine is connected to this area or someone pours boiling water into the toilet.

Plastic sewerage is assembled easily, as if it were a children's designer. Installation starts from the lowest point, for which the next element is inserted into the socket of the previous part, but before that, plastic pipe sealant is applied to the end of the fitting or pipe, which is designed for such work.

This is necessary both to prevent leaks and to facilitate installation work. The fact is that with such a diameter of pipes, it is not easy to dock - it requires considerable effort. When the ends of the element are lubricated, work is much faster. When installing the sewerage, the use of right angle bends should be avoided, and a 90 ° turn can be performed using two 45 ° bends and thereby reduce the braking of fluid flows.

If you want to shorten a long piece of pipe, use a hacksaw. To fix the structure, they use stud clamps or clips (the latter products look more presentable).
Before each turn, at the bottom of the risers and at the place where the sewer exits the house, revisions should be made. If there is a need to combine a new plastic pipe with an old cast iron product, the connection is sealed with a special rubber cuff.

If there is a basement or a room under the toilet for which the interior matters, then the horizontal section of the pipe can be placed in them under the ceiling surface.

This solution has obvious advantages:

  • there is no need to go around the corners, since the pipes will be laid in the shortest way, and this will save materials and time, which means money;
  • sewer pipes will not occupy the space at the bottom of the room.
The elements that make up the pressure sewer are connected together by welding or using flanges. Depending on the characteristics of the fecal pump, the diameter of the pipes can vary between 20-40 millimeters. Laying can be done both from the outside, and under the floor or in a wall strobe.

How to make a sewer outside

The design of the toilet involves laying the outer part of the sewer in a trench, the depth of which depends on the climate in the region. Pipes at the same time use different ones - from asbestos, cement, cast iron, plastic and ceramics. The most popular are plastic products.

An external non-pressure sewer is equipped under a constant slope in the direction of the drain, equal to 2%. To do this, a sand cushion about 20 centimeters thick is poured into the bottom of the trench.

Toilet installation

  1. Usually, in their own houses, the floors are made of wood, so before you make a toilet in a private house, they should be leveled, strengthened and laid with linoleum. If the neck of the pipe is located above the outlet of the toilet bowl, it must be raised. The podium can be made from a wide board or pieces of timber. If the installation is planned on a concrete floor (for example, on the basement floor), then brick and cement will be required.
  2. Most often, the connection to the sewer can be made directly: a cuff with an o-ring is inserted into the pipe, and the toilet bowl outlet is inserted into it. In the case when this is not possible, a plastic eccentric or a corrugated cuff is used.
  3. Connecting to a fecal pump will not cause difficulties, since the inlet on it is located at a standard height, and everything that is needed for docking is available.
  4. After the toilet is installed in the place intended for it, and after making sure that it fits securely with the sewer pipe, mark the holes. Then the plumbing is removed to the side and the floor is drilled. A set of fasteners is usually included with the toilet. It consists of self-tapping screws, plastic dowels, washers and decorative caps.

    The toilet bowl is returned to the place prepared for it and it is checked how level it is using the building level. If necessary, the base is leveled by placing a solid object. After completion of the work, the resulting gap is filled with cement.

  5. The plumbing fixture is fixed with self-tapping screws, placing soft washers under the caps.
The junction with the tube and cuff should be syringed using silicone sealant. Do the same with the base of the toilet bowl so that water does not flow under its bottom. Now it remains only to connect the water for drain tank. As a rule, a coaxial hose is used for connection, placing a tap in front of it.

As a result, a well-maintained bathroom will certainly improve the quality of life of the household.