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How best to make a cesspool. Arrangement of the sewerage system of a country house: do-it-yourself cesspool. Sealed waste tanks

Cesspool is an integral part comfortable living at the cottage or in a private house. If it is not possible to connect to the city sewer system, care should be taken to alternative solution. Making a cesspool with your own hands is not an easy task. But if you want to fully enjoy your time in the country at any time of the year, you will have to work hard. In this article, we will talk in detail about all the ways of arranging a cesspool.

In the city, the issue of disposal of household Wastewater and waste is solved quite simply - the municipal services are engaged in this, and in order to make a sewer, you just need to call the masters. In the case of organizing such a system in the private sector, things are a little more complicated.

Cesspools are different, and the choice depends not so much on financial capabilities, but on the specifics of use and volumes of wastewater. For a large house, where 3-5 people live permanently, a capacious septic tank or a local treatment station is needed. For the more humble country houses enough of the simplest cesspool.

Speaking of the most simple designs, it is impossible not to mention the "predecessor" of all modern systems for waste water disposal. We are talking about a simple hole in the ground, the walls of which are plastered with clay and reinforced with boards. This design was replaced by wooden barrels that were buried in the ground, metal tanks, containers and any other suitable containers. Today, this method is also actively used, but capacious plastic tanks have replaced the barrels. They can be installed if the daily volume of wastewater does not exceed 1 m³.

You can make the most ordinary cesspool for a toilet, but in some cases their arrangement is contrary to sanitary and epidemiological standards, and using them, to put it mildly, is not very convenient. This is useless - today many inexpensive and practical options have been invented.

It is clear that every owner country house I want to save as much money as possible on a cesspool device. Below we take a closer look at the most actual ways among which you are sure to find the right one.

Depending on the design features, cesspools are absorbent and sealed. Septic tanks are also designed to collect and filter wastewater, but they are more complex from a technical point of view.

Absorbing sewage pits do not have a bottom, so the drains that enter them undergo a rough cleaning with a layer of sand, gravel, broken bricks or other loose material that can act as a filter. This option is the most economical, and it will not be difficult to do it yourself. Partial infiltration allows you to reduce the frequency of calling vacuum trucks to a minimum. One such pit can only be built if the volume of wastewater is small, and the house does not have equipment that works with water (washing machines, jacuzzis, etc.). Otherwise, the earth will not be able to absorb so much liquid.

Sealed pit latrines are watertight tanks made of concrete, brick, plastic, or other materials. As they fill up, they must be emptied by calling a sewage truck. The tightness of the structure allows you to avoid the spread of unpleasant odors around the site, however, the pit must be constantly monitored so that it does not overflow. If the house uses a lot of water for household needs, resorting to this method is impractical, because the tank will fill up quickly, and the services of the sewers will cost a pretty penny.

The fastest and in a simple way to make an airtight cesspool is to purchase a capacious plastic container. It is buried in the ground, and a hatch is installed on top for pumping wastewater.

Preparatory work

Despite the fact that technology is developing at a breathtaking pace, and human civilization is in full bloom, it has not touched some aspects of life. It is very difficult to carry out a centralized sewage system to a village or town, so many are still forced to make do with cesspools.

Location selection

Whatever design you choose, it is very important to find right place Otherwise, all efforts will go to waste. For this, there is a special SNiP, which describes in detail the requirements and norms of a cesspool for a residential building.

In short, the pit should be at least 12 m from the house, but as close as possible to the fence or driveway, so that the vacuum trucks can do their job without hindrance. If you are doing a bottomless drain with a coarse filtration system, care should be taken that the distance from the cesspool to the sources drinking water(wells, wells) was the maximum possible. Also consider the constant wind direction so that unpleasant odors do not interfere with your life or your neighbors.

Cesspool calculation

When you have decided on the location of the future cesspool, you can begin to calculate its size. In this case, one should build on the number of people permanently residing in the house. If an adult consumes on average about 180 liters of water per day, then a family of 3 people per month will produce 12 cubic meters of wastewater. Since it is better to take the volume with a margin, the cesspool of such a family should hold at least 18 cubic meters.

The second thing you should pay attention to is the presence in the house of equipment that works with water - washing and dishwashers, jacuzzi, etc. The mechanical composition of the soil also plays an important role and affects the size of the future pit. If your site is located on light soil, for example, with marl, then the water will seep well, and you can take 40% of the flow per month for the volume of the cesspool. If the house stands on clay or hard soil, which is poorly permeable to moisture, then the volume will be required with a margin exceeding the monthly rate.

The depth of the cesspool should be no more than 3 m, while the distance between the surface and the hatch should be about a meter so that the drains do not spill out.

Construction of a cesspool

If it is not possible to enjoy the benefits of a central sewer, why not do your best to feel comfortable in your own country house? We suggest you consider a few simple, but effective ways how to make a cesspool.

brick pit

The most difficult thing in building any cesspool is digging a foundation pit. It will not be easy to get rid of several tens of cubic meters of land without large specialized equipment. Therefore, if you do not know excavators, pick up a shovel and be patient. by the most the best option there will be digging a drain hole during the arrangement of the foundation.

For the construction of a brick cesspool, it is better to use only red fired bricks, as it withstands moisture better and has greater strength compared to other types.

The scheme for building a cesspool is quite simple:


bottomless pit

The design is similar to the previous one, except that there is no bottom in it. In some cases, it is not laid only metal mesh to trap large particles of sewage. The walls are also laid out with bricks, but using the half-brick method. It will turn out to be a less stable design, but it will better drain wastewater, and its cost is very low.

To save even more, use improvised and used materials. For example, instead of the usual cinder block, use inexpensive semi-blocks. Instead of bituminous mastic to waterproof the walls from the inside, coat them with greasy natural clay.

Such a pit will serve you for about 20 years with regular use. After that, spot repairs may be required, but no more. It will not have to be pumped out too often, because due to the lack of a bottom, the water goes into the ground, and only large fractions remain in the pit.

Of the minuses, one can single out the fact that the pit will overgrow with silt over time, therefore, after pumping it out, it is recommended to additionally clean and disinfect it.

concrete pit

Making a cesspool of concrete is much more expensive than brick, and it takes much more time, but the result will more than pay for all the efforts. There are two types of such structures: a cesspool made of concrete rings and a solid one.

In the first case, the bottom of the pit is poured with a concrete screed, and concrete rings of the appropriate diameter are laid on it. You can build such a pit very quickly, but the work will require the participation of a large construction equipment and several people. This design is of a sealed type, so keep in mind that the vacuum trucks will have to be called quite often.

We offer you to watch a video about a cesspool made of concrete rings, built on a site with a high level of occurrence ground water:

It is more difficult to make a solid-cast pit, since not only the bottom, but also its walls must be reinforced, and then poured with concrete. Even a beginner will not have any difficulties with horizontal surfaces, but it will not be easy to make even and strong walls of a pit several meters deep. The principle of operation resembles the construction of a foundation, when formwork is made, reinforcing bars are inserted into it and poured cement-sand mortar. After the walls have hardened (3-4 weeks), they should be covered with waterproofing material. Bituminous mastic or liquid rubber will perfectly cope with this task.

A one-piece pit in terms of durability will “surpass” any other. Moreover, it can last longer than the house itself. It is also environmentally friendly, as it is completely isolated and does not release sewage into the ground. It does not clog silt, so over time the volume will not decrease. Unfortunately, it will be necessary to pump out sewage from such a pit no less than from a brick or plastic one, and the price is several times higher.

Pit from tires

What is common between cesspool and old tires? The answer to this question will be a common "life hack" that resourceful summer residents came up with to save money, effort and precious time.

To build such a structure, dig a pit of the required depth and with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of a car tire. Then stack the tires in a pile until the pit is filled, install an elementary overlap of waterproof material and a hatch.

How to make a cesspool without spending a dime? Contact your nearest tire shop - maybe they will give you old unnecessary tires for free. The durability of this design is impressive - the pit will last 20-25 years without repair. Tires are best used from cars. They are strong, waterproof and durable.

The disadvantages of the "tire" pit are also present. Firstly, strong carrying capacity (water seeps between the tires and through the bottom) can adversely affect the condition of the soil. Secondly, the pit is heavily silted, so it must be cleaned frequently. Thirdly, tires can begin to rot if sewage is not pumped out in time.

We have described the most common ways to make a cesspool in a private house so that you can evaluate all their advantages, disadvantages and choose the most suitable option. Reminds that before this, the required volume should be calculated - the nature of the structure and the scale of the work to be done will depend on it.

Cesspool: photo





The suburban area must have a sewerage system. You can carry it out on your own. without do-it-yourself pumping is a way to make living in country cottage more comfortable. The main thing is that the sewer system functions correctly. The device of drains is not a difficult task, if you first know how to complete the construction.

The cesspool of a private house can be done by yourself

Sealed waste tanks

These tanks are containers made of concrete, plastic, metal and other materials that do not allow water to pass through. Thanks to the tightness, the tenants will be spared from unpleasant odors. However, such a device for cesspools in involves the frequent call of a team of sewers to remove accumulated effluents.

Storage tanks made of plastic can be mounted in parallel, which increases their volume. Sealed tanks are mounted by above-ground and underground methods. The first option will be required for land plots with a close location of groundwater.

The simplest homemade septic tanks

A do-it-yourself cesspool is a feasible job for the master when we are talking about simple and light structures. If you are going to use for construction, then it is better to find an assistant and hire special equipment. Heavy-weight structures are not easy to lay on your own.

If your household has found a plastic container for a cesspool, then proceed to the arrangement suburban area. Installation will take no more than 2 - 3 days. In addition to plastic containers, metal barrels or containers are used, as well as products made of polypropylene or polyethylene. Each of the materials has its own characteristics:

  1. The plastic is light weight, easy to transport, resistant to damp environment, long service life, easy processing;
  2. Metal barrels or self-made welded structures need an anti-corrosion coating. Otherwise, the product will soon become unusable;
  3. Polypropylene containers have strength, moisture resistance, impact resistance, the ability to withstand sudden changes in temperature;
  4. Polyethylene containers are fragile. They require careful handling. The service life is up to 30 years.

For a homemade septic tank with several chambers, you need to prepare a pit and fill it correctly concrete screed to get a solid foundation. Rings are installed. The structures are interconnected. Step-by-step cleaning allows you to get an excellent natural fertilizer for the garden.

How to make an absorption hole

A cesspool without pumping is created in several stages:

  1. Choose a location for the hole. It is necessary to retreat from the fence 1 m and from the residential building at least 12 m. Scatter the top layer of soil over the site. Leave 1.5 m3 of land for thermal insulation above the ceiling. Remove the remaining soil from the cottage;
  2. Make concrete walls. Another option is brickwork. The design will be optimal for suction of liquid into the ground if masonry is staggered;
  3. Make a top cover. It could be monolithic slab from concrete with a hatch.

If the cover is not planned to be insulated, then you need to put the walls 30 or 40 cm lower than the soil level so that the cesspool does not freeze in winter.

A plastic pot for a pit is one of the simplest solutions.

Hermetically sealed device

There are many options for making a cesspool. It is convenient to meet the various needs of summer cottage owners. Use factory products so that the sewer pit will serve you for many years. Scheme of a cesspool made of concrete slabs. Installation is fast. The cesspool will be able to fully satisfy the needs of residents: concrete rings on the market are sold in a large assortment. You can easily pick up circles with the desired diameter.

During installation, the following order must be observed:

  1. Dig a hole. An excavator is usually hired to perform earthworks;
  2. Lay the main circle. Install subsequent rings. This work will be handled by experts. This requires the involvement of special equipment. An excavator is needed to set up the bottom, the rings will be lowered down by a crane. It is preferable to use solid products in construction;
  3. The last circle should rise above the ground by 20 or 30 cm.

The device of a cesspool from concrete rings requires the involvement of experienced professionals and special equipment.

A cesspool with overflow is an excellent replacement for a central sewer in areas where it does not exist. The building has the following advantages:

  • rare pumping with the help of sewage equipment;
  • the ability to use water a second time to water green spaces;
  • no bad odors;
  • the ability to use water in large volumes;
  • the absence of gurgling and other unpleasant sounds from sewer system if the pit overflows.

If desired, the master will build a cesspool overflow structure on his own. To do this, you need to understand its device. 2 settling pits are connected to each other with a special pipe in the form of the letter "T".

The first container is connected to the house by a pipeline at an angle of 1.5 or 2 degrees towards the drain. Large particles sink to the bottom of the sump. Wastewater flows through a T-pipe into another container. This sump does not have a bottom. It is with layers of sand, as well as rubble with broken bricks. Waste water passes through all layers. After cleansing, she goes into the ground without causing harm. environment. Loose or sandy soil makes it possible to fill the second hole with one rubble. Lay geotextile with a layer of black earth on top. Plant plants with a short root system.

The addition of special preparations containing bacteria to the first septic tank helps to improve the breakdown of organic waste. If oxygen enters the container, the biological product works better. Therefore, it is recommended to leave a hole in the lid of the septic tank.

The first sump is built from concrete rings, and the second from red brick. You will need sewer pipes made of plastic and a T-shaped pipe. Instead of the latter, you can take a corner. This is necessary to prevent the entry of sewage from the first container into the second.

If you have to dig a ditch by hand, then use this method. Install the first concrete ring in the place where the settling pit will be. Climb inside the product and dig in a circle. The weight of the ring will cause it to drop. When the concrete product is level with the ground, a second one is installed on it. Keep digging. Unnecessary earth is poured into a bucket, which is lifted by your assistant standing on top. After completing the installation of the rings, bring the pipes to the tanks. A chisel and hammer will help you make holes in the concrete rings.

A plastic cesspool is a structure that the master creates without outside help. When installing, avoid pipe drops and sharp turns. When it is impossible to lay a straight pipeline, then make the angle of rotation obtuse. This design avoids blockages. Make sure that it is convenient for the sewer truck to drive up when the drains accumulate and you need to pump out the cesspool. The drawn diagram will help create a competent project for local sewage.

Do-it-yourself sewer pit from used car tires is a budget way to create comfortable living conditions. If the volume of wastewater is small, then this design is ideal: it is affordable and practical. Installation is not difficult. However, it is difficult to disassemble the construction of tires with your own hands. Homemade will last no more than 15 years.

It is difficult to shape a circle on your own from gas silicate blocks. Therefore, it is made in the form of a square or rectangle. Sealing is carried out using a special adhesive or cement mortar.

WATCH VIDEO

Ready-made sets of cesspools

Today, cesspools in a private house are made in one day. Contact professional companies that sell and install septic tanks. Select ready product according to the catalog and place an order - a cesspool made of plastic or concrete rings. In the first case, the container is already ready for use, in the second it will be assembled on site.

Factory septic tanks are divided into single-chamber, two-chamber and three-chamber. The last two models allow you to get cleaner water at the outlet. The first option is used instead of a cesspool.

If a person lives in a house, it must have sewerage, since waste products still need to be disposed of somehow. And it's hard to disagree with that, isn't it? The modern industry offers many solutions: from multi-section septic tanks to neat dry closets. But the usual cesspool in a private house is still relevant and in demand.

But, before proceeding with the construction of a cesspool on the site, you will have to weigh the pros and cons. After all, an incorrectly chosen place, and the design of the cesspool itself, subsequently, threatens to turn into many problems. The most common of these is the appearance bad smell. We will tell you how to avoid this problem.

In the article, we have collected and summarized information about the types and design features cesspools. In addition, here you can find helpful tips and recommendations on how to choose and build a sewer on the site. The material is accompanied by thematic photos and videos.

A cesspool is perhaps the oldest and simplest type of sewage. It is a depression in the ground in which sewage is accumulated and partially processed.

Any drain contains a certain amount of bacteria that absorb and transform these accumulations. Part of the filtered effluent passes into the underlying soil.

Everything that has not been recycled and has not gone into the underlying layers should be periodically removed from the cesspool so that the container does not overflow.

Image gallery

To collect household waste in private homes or on garden plots a drainage pit is required. Its construction is simple, so you can do it yourself, without the involvement of specialists. To create a drain pit with your own hands, you will need some knowledge, we talked about them in this article.

Sanitary restrictions

In order to avoid penalties and litigation with neighbors, when choosing a place for a drain pit, the following sanitary and technical requirements should be taken into account:

The storage pit for domestic wastewater is located only on the territory of a private household; you have no right to place it outside of it; distance from the fence - from 1 m;

In order to avoid the ingress of effluents into drinking water in case of leakage of the pit, it is necessary to place it at a distance (at a distance of 10 m) from the water supply branch; at least 20 m recede from the well with drinking water (on loam up to 30 m, sandstone - 50 m);

The close location of such a pit, when it is drowned or blurred, can lead to the destruction of the foundation, so the distance from residential buildings (including neighboring ones) is 10-12 m;

The depth of the pit depends on the occurrence of groundwater, the maximum depth is 3 m.

When choosing a place for a treatment plant, one should also take into account the possibility of access to it by special equipment for pumping.

In order to avoid the appearance of an unpleasant smell in the house, you should not place it near the windows - you should retreat at least 5 m.

Distance to cesspool

Violation of sanitary and technical standards is fraught not only with fines. If the spill of sewage causes damage to the natural environment or the health of others, a criminal case may be opened against you (Article 250 of the Criminal Code).

Important! The device of cesspool tanks without a bottom is allowed only if the volume of domestic wastewater per day does not exceed one cubic meter. In all other cases, the waste collection container must be airtight.

Types of drain pits

For the construction of a storage tank for domestic waste, you can use a variety of materials:

Concrete (including concrete rings);

Plastic;

Rubber tyres.


Drainage pit made of bricks

Due to their low tightness, wood and rubber tires are used only for the construction of small drainage structures. Most often, cesspools are built of concrete or brick.

Calculation of the volume of the drive

The size of such a capacity depends on the number of residents, the number of installed plumbing fixtures, the presence of a shower or bath, bath, dishwasher, washing machine, pumping frequency and other nuances. The generally accepted norm for 1 person without further filtration is 30-50 liters (0.03-0.05 cubic meters) per day.

Thus, subject to pumping out the drain pit once a month, a family of 3 will need at least:

0.03 x 3 x 60 (number of days in 1 month) = 4.5 m3

Advice. In case of unforeseen situations (for example, snow drifts and the impossibility of timely pumping), it is better to make the size of the drive with a margin. Since the volume of one GAZ sewage truck is on average 3.8-4 cubic meters. m, in order not to overpay for running the car, it is more reasonable to make the pits a multiple of this value.

Drainage pit made of concrete. Construction stages

1. Initially, a pit is prepared manually or with the help of an excavator. Usually its width is no more than a meter. The length of the cesspool is calculated depending on the volume of wastewater. For the convenience of pumping out the bottom of the pit is best done with a slight slope.

2. So that the walls do not crumble, they are leveled.

3. Pipes are brought to the pit. In order for wastewater to flow into the pit by gravity, they must be located at a certain slope. For pipes d160 mm, it is 10 mm per meter of passage; the slope of 100 mm pipes is 20 mm.

4. It is desirable that the drain pipes are located below the freezing level. Otherwise, they will have to be carefully insulated.


Pipe supply

6. It is better to make a hydraulic lock between the walls of the pit and the ground. To do this, wet clay is poured between the formwork and the soil and carefully compacted. This must be done as the formwork is erected.


clay castle

7. It is desirable to waterproof the walls of a concrete pit with a conventional plastic film.

8. Standard formwork is being prepared for the side parts of the structure. Since the concrete walls have a significant mass, the formwork is fixed as firmly as possible with the help of self-tapping screws.

9. The structure must be reinforced. All metal rods are connected with wire.


Cesspool reinforcement

10. The thickness of the walls of the concrete cesspool is 25 cm.

11. In order to avoid the appearance of cold joints (places of “weakness” in concrete), the walls are poured in only one step.

12. The solution is mixed in a ratio of 1:2:3 (cement, sand, gravel). It should be quite liquid. If you throw a small pebble into it, with a sufficient amount of liquid, it should be completely immersed in the solution.

13. During the pouring process, the solution should be periodically compacted with a shovel or vibrocompactor (bayonet). Otherwise, voids will form in it, which will negatively affect the strength of the structure.


Compacting concrete makes it stronger and prevents voids

14. In hot weather, to avoid cracking, drying concrete surface it is better to cover with bags.

15. After the concrete has completely hardened (this happens on average within a week), the pit is carefully waterproofed with bitumen. To do this, the walls are first cleared of irregularities. The bitumen is crushed into pieces, heated to a boil, then removed from the fire and gradually, in a thin stream, added a small amount of kerosene, gasoline or diesel fuel (a liter is required for 10 liters of bitumen). This is done so that the bitumen is more liquid. If it is not diluted, it will solidify almost immediately after removing it from the fire.


Heating bitumen on a fire

16. You should not overheat the bitumen or heat the mixture together with gasoline, kerosene or diesel fuel, otherwise it will flare up. If the heated bitumen nevertheless catches fire, in order to extinguish the flame, you should immediately cover the container with plywood or a suitable lid.

17. For waterproofing, you can also purchase a ready-made solution of roofing bituminous mastic, but it will cost more.

18. The resulting mixture is applied to the walls with a brush. After the first layer dries, another one is applied.

19. As a cover, you can use a reinforced concrete slab with a hatch for pumping and cleaning.


Drain hole hatch

Advice. As a result of decay of waste, methane is formed in the drain pit - a rather explosive gas. It is removed using a ventilation pipe located in the lid of the pit. The diameter of such a pipe is 100 mm with a height of 600 mm.


Ventilation pipe device

Video: Drain pit: construction stages

Citizens, using plumbing, as a rule, do not think about where the waste water then flows. But the owners country houses The problem of waste disposal often has to be solved independently. Consider how to properly make a drain hole. After all, it is this popular version of local sewage that is the simplest, cheapest and most affordable for self-construction.

When landscaping the house and the site, the first thing they do is to build water supply and sewerage systems. Because imagine comfortable life if necessary, it is quite difficult to carry water from a well.

There are a lot of options for organizing wastewater disposal, but the simplest and therefore very popular is the construction of a drain pit. Consider how to make a drain pit with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professional builders.

Types of drain pits

For all its simplicity, the drain pit can have different design. Here are the most common options:

  • sealed pit.
  • filter hole.
  • Double pit.

sealed pit

This version of the local sewage system is the safest for the environment, since all drains from the house disappear into a sealed sump and remain there until they are pumped out by sewers.

Thus, there is no risk of contaminated water entering the soil and soil water, that is, the presence of this type of sewerage on the site does not affect the ecological systems. The disadvantage of this waste disposal option is the need to regularly pump out the accumulated liquid.

Filter drain pit

Build filter-type drain pits sanitary regulations allowed only if the volume of effluents per day is less than a cubic meter. If there is little wastewater, they have time to be recycled through natural decomposition. Pits of this type can be built for a bath, as well as for a house in which there is a separation of drains.


In the latter case, two sewer branches and two drain pits are constructed. In the first (filter type) drains are transported from the shower room, from the washbasin, washing machine, which is relatively pure. In the second (sealed type), drains from toilets and the kitchen should be transported.

Two-chamber drain pit

Another practical solution to the problem of how to build a drain pit is the construction of a two-chamber installation. Consider the principle of operation of such a treatment plant:

  • The pit consists of two chambers connected at the top by an overflow.
  • The first chamber is sealed, the second is filtering.
  • Drains (undivided) come from the house to the first sealed chamber, where they are mechanically separated, that is, they are simply settled. Solid inclusions sink to the bottom, and relatively pure water overflows into the second chamber.
  • From the second chamber, water is filtered into the ground.
  • Waste that accumulates in the first chamber should be pumped out periodically.

Advice! So that the drain pit can be cleaned less often, it is recommended to use special biological products. Bacteria recycle organic matter, reducing the amount of solid waste.

Construction planning

Before you make a drain pit, you should draw up a construction plan. It is necessary to decide on the type of structure, choose the place of construction and determine the required volume of tanks.


How to determine the volume of the drain pit?

The main indicator on which the volume of the drain pit will depend is the intensity of use of a residential facility. It is clear that a larger pit is needed for a house than for a summer residence.

Advice! Of course, it is better to determine the volume of effluents individually, but there are generally accepted norms. So, for a family of three people permanently residing in the house, a pit with a capacity of 6 cubic meters should be built.

When determining the volume of the tank, the following factors should be taken into account:

  • Availability of sewer services.
  • The volume that sewage equipment can pump out at a time.

Where is the drain hole located?

  • Soil water should lie deep enough on the site, since the minimum depth of the pit is two meters.
  • If there is a source of drinking water nearby, then a pit should be placed at a distance of at least 30 meters from it.
  • The cesspool cannot be placed on a slope.
  • Provision should be made for the availability of free passages for servicing the pit.
  • You can not have a hole next to the house and the fence of the neighboring area. The minimum distance to housing is five meters.


In a word, it is quite difficult to choose a place for construction, especially if the site is already equipped. However, you cannot deviate from the above rules.

The choice of material for construction

For the construction of a sealed pit, the following materials are used:

  • Concrete solution. A formwork is being built into which the mortar is poured. The thickness of the walls and the bottom should be at least 7 cm, it is advisable to reinforce with a steel mesh.
  • Plastic containers. This is the least labor intensive option. A pit is being prepared, in which a finished plastic container is installed.

Advice! To exclude the possibility of deformation of containers under the action of soil pressure, as well as its floating up during spring floods, it is recommended to concret the walls and bottom of the pit. When concreting the bottom, special fastening loops are laid, to which the plastic tank is tied with polymer belts.

  • concrete rings.
  • Ceramic brick.

When choosing the last two options, you have to carry out additional measures to seal the seams. For this brickwork(or joints between the rings) is treated with mortar from the inside, the bottom of the pit is concreted.

Additionally, from the inside, the walls are covered with a bitumen solution, and from the outside they are covered with a thick (20 cm) layer of greasy clay. And what is the best way to overlay the drain pit if a filtering version of the treatment plant is being built? There are no less options. Great for:


  • Brick. The walls should be laid out so that between the rows there are five-centimeter gaps arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
  • Reinforced concrete rings. Manufacturers specially produce rings for the construction of drainage wells, they are perforated. If it was not possible to buy such rings, holes in solid products can be made independently using a perforator.
  • old car tires. From this improvised material, you can easily assemble a drainage well. Tires are stacked one above the other, having previously cut off the lower rim on each of them.
  • Old plastic or metal barrels. For the construction of the pit, a barrel without a bottom is used, while a number of holes are made in its lower part for better water filtration.

Stages of construction of a drain pit

Let's consider how to properly make a drain pit, provided that the work is done independently:

  • Construction begins with the preparation of a pit and trenches for laying a supply pipeline.
  • The pit should have a greater depth than the planned depth of the drain pit, since a drainage cushion is arranged at its bottom.
  • The drainage cushion is made by pouring a layer of sand and gravel, each layer is qualitatively compacted.
  • If the pit is airtight, then the height of the layers can be 10-15 cm. Either a ready-made reinforced concrete slab should be placed on top of the drainage pillow, or a concrete screed should be made.
  • If a filter pit is being built, then the crushed stone layer should be at least 20 cm so that the drains are better cleaned and the bottom does not silt longer.
  • Next, the walls of the tank are strengthened, that is, brickwork is performed, concrete rings are installed or plastic containers, depending on the chosen construction material.
  • If a sealed tank is being built, then after the walls are strengthened, they are waterproofed.
  • At this stage, the connection of the supply pipeline to the receiving tank is also carried out. The connection of the pipe with the tank must be tight, but not rigid, so that it does not collapse under the action of soil movements. It is convenient to use rubber couplings.


  • At a distance of about 40 cm from the surface of the earth, an overlap for the pit is arranged. As a rule, a finished reinforced concrete slab with a hole for a hatch is used as a floor. If desired, such a slab can be cast independently, having previously constructed the formwork.
  • Alternatively, thick boards can be used to build the floor, but in this case, it will turn out to be less durable.
  • A hatch must be made in the ceiling to check the filling of the pit and pump out its contents.
  • It is advisable to install on the cover and the ventilation pipe. Indeed, in the process of decomposition of waste, various gases are formed, including methane, which is explosive. Therefore, it is better to provide for the possibility of ventilation.
  • From above, the overlap can be covered with soil. The soil must be filled with a mound to prevent rainwater from flowing into the pit.

So, if it is planned to arrange a local sewerage system, the construction of a drain pit is one of the simplest, but at the same time convenient and practical options. It does not hurt for beginners in the construction business to visually see how to make a drain pit - a video describing the stages of work can be found on construction sites.