Repair 

Self-installation: plastic windows in a wooden house. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: a step-by-step process of installing plastic windows How to install euro-windows in a log house in stages

window opening in wooden house has always been one of the most complex building blocks. With the advent of PVC windows, the problems caused by shrinkage processes have been supplemented by an extensive list of new restrictions and requirements associated with the universal design of metal-plastic profiles. In this connection, the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands should be done only after a thorough study of all the features of this technology.

We emphasize right away that the principle of fixing PVC windows is fundamentally different from the method of installing classic wooden frames, so even experienced craftsmen who have no experience in this area construction works, it is advisable to study the relevant documentation and technological advice from window manufacturers.

You will find general information about the technology for installing plastic windows in our article, and today we will give step-by-step instructions for self-assembly.

When preparing for self-installation of a plastic window, special attention should be paid to the preparation of tools and materials. Considering that in most cases, the installation of windows in wooden houses is carried out on-site (dacha, Vacation home etc.), the absence of one specific key or device can create a lot of problems.

Consider the main groups of tools that are necessary to properly install the window structure.

Mechanics

From a mechanical point of view, plastic windows have a far from standard design, so the usual set of home craftsmen will not be enough.

Below is a list of mechanical tools needed to work effectively with PVC profiles:

  • an iron and rubber hammer (an elastic striker is used to position the frame);
  • universal screwdriver;
  • a set of hex keys;
  • pin removal handle (with hexagonal tip);
  • electric drill;
  • drills for concrete and metal (diameters from 3 to 10 mm);
  • mounting wedges and gaskets;
  • universal adjusting key;
  • measuring set (tape measure, square, building level, plumb);
  • a device for gripping double-glazed windows (“glass jacks”).

Please note that for cutting expansion profiles, a conventional hacksaw may not be enough, since some types of extensions can be reinforced with metal. Of course, you can cut such a profile with a hand saw, but you will have to spend much more time on each detail.

In view of the foregoing, it is useful to supplement the above list with a mechanized version of the saw (electric jigsaw or circular saw), as well as fixing devices (clamps).

It is advisable to take a clamp with a wide grip, since they may be needed not only for fixing materials during cutting, but also for attaching expansion profiles.

Sealing

An integral part of the technology for assembling metal-plastic windows is sealing with sealing tapes and polymerizable substances.

When installing PVC profiles with your own hands, you can use the sprayers supplied with cylinders with mounting foam, but for professional work it is advisable to purchase a separate device that will significantly reduce the cost of consumables.

Separately, we emphasize that in addition to mounting foam, when installing PVC windows, silicone is often used, which is extremely difficult to squeeze out of the tube without a special “gun”.

Waterproofing

Any polymer sealant - and polyurethane foam is no exception - in the case of constant contact with outside air and moisture, it quickly collapses. To slow down this process, the inner and outer surfaces of the installation gaps must be protected with waterproofing (installed on internal surfaces, such protection is called "vapor barrier").

This can be done both with the help of a special tape, and through the application of special pastes (putties).

Depending on what type of waterproofing will be preferred, the basic list of tools must be supplemented with scissors or a set of spatulas.

Preparing for installation

After the PVC window is purchased and delivered, it is imperative to check the completeness and compliance of the actual dimensions with the parameters that were specified in the order.

Before starting a technical description of the self-installation of windows, we list the main terms used to refer to the elements of their design:

  • frame (power base of the window);
  • sash (movable part of the window);
  • double-glazed window (1-2-3 chamber set of glasses combined into a single block);
  • impost (internal frame partitions);
  • glazing bead (latching strips necessary for fixing double-glazed windows in a frame or sashes);
  • accessories (operating and regulating elements of a window);
  • slope (decorative panel covering the end of the log house or the inner plane of the casing);
  • windowsill;
  • dobor (expanding profile used to adjust the geometric dimensions of the window).

Examination

As practice shows, window handles and other auxiliary fittings are often lost during transportation.

If a mosquito net was present in the order, it is necessary to check the availability of fasteners for its installation.

In addition to completeness, compliance with the size of the window and casing is checked. The main test criterion is simple - the installation gap should be no more than 2 cm (but not less than 5 mm!). It should be borne in mind that when comparing linear dimensions, the above tolerances are multiplied by two. That is, if the inner width of the casing, for example, is 200 cm, then the total width of the frame should be no more than 200-2 * 2 = 196 cm.

In those cases when the window was bought with the expectation of building extensions, measurements are made taking into account the mutual overlap of the locks.

Next, you need to select the fastening dowels, the length of which should be such that, when fully screwed, they do not pierce through the casing.

This requirement is relevant only for those cases when the installation of the window is carried out with the drilling of the profile. However, it should be remembered that this installation method is a spare and is used only in cases where the window is mounted in a pigtail, consisting only of a mortgage beam.

The main way to fix a PVC window in the opening is to install it on anchor plates, the purchase of which should also be included in the list of preparatory work.

Disassembly and preparation for installation

The next stage of preparation for installation is disassembly of the factory delivery set. Despite the fact that the window can be installed without dismantling the double-glazed windows, we recommend using the option with complete disassembly, since it is much easier to install and center a light frame than a massive and inconvenient window block.

Below is step-by-step instruction disassembly and preparation process:

  • remove the packaging and the protective tape (you can leave the tape on the inner surfaces, but if you leave it on the outside, then after 1-2 months it will firmly “stick” to the frame);
  • remove glass panes. To do this, you need to remove the glazing beads from the latches. You should start from the bottom;
  • dismantle the frames, for which you will need to remove the locking pins (a special key mentioned in the previous section is intended for this operation);
  • dismantle auxiliary fittings, otherwise during installation it may be lost or damaged (plugs for drainage holes, covers for hinges, etc.).
  • if the window is installed in the reverse quarter - stick PSUL sealing tape on the outer perimeter of the frame;
  • drill holes for dowels or mount anchor plates (depending on installation method).

We emphasize the following nuances:

  • when removing double-glazed windows, the initial position of the left and right glazing beads should be noted;
  • the lower edge of double-glazed windows must be installed on special gaskets - their position must be noted;
  • gripping glass panels is best done using a special tool (it is also indicated in the list of tools listed above);
  • removed double-glazed windows should be handled with extreme care so as not to damage the edges (and also to avoid vertical storage).

Installation methods

There are two different ways PVC installations do-it-yourself windows: with and without disassembly of the window block.

This difference is due to two factors: the window fastening scheme and the mass of the structure.

The first option is more versatile and allows you to install the window in any way.

The second method is used only in cases where the fixation of the window block in the opening is carried out using anchor plates. It is used for the installation of fixed windows, or for mass installation of standard format windows in a T-shaped casing.

Obviously, the installation of a window without disassembly is an order of magnitude faster than with disassembly. However, due to the fact that most of the assembled metal-plastic window blocks have a significant weight, for self installation only the first option is recommended.

Installation of plastic windows

In order to correctly install the window yourself, you should clearly understand the main rule of installation operations of this type: the effectiveness of the window depends not only on the quality of the double-glazed window, but also on correct assembly the entire structure of the window block, which includes several auxiliary subsystems.

Under "auxiliary subsystems" in this case we mean:

  • waterproofing;
  • additional seals;
  • slopes;
  • low tides;
  • platbands.

Particular attention should be paid to the position and protection of sealants. The figure on the right shows the basic layout of additional seals.

Please note that the seal around the outer perimeter of the window is installed only when mounting in a reverse quarter. If the window is mounted in a conventional T-shaped casing (which is the most common case), then the slopes play the role of such a seal.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly install PVC windows in wooden houses.

Removing old windows

When disassembling windows in houses made of timber and logs, special attention should be paid to the safety of the pigtails, since making a new one will be expensive.

In cases where the previous installation was carried out correctly, and the frames were fastened with self-tapping screws, the dismantling sequence consists of only three operations: removing the fasteners, removing the window block and cleaning the casing from the remnants of the mounting foam.

Some problems may arise if the old window was nailed down, which may require an additional tool - a nail puller - to remove it.

It is important to take into account that, before installing a new window, it is necessary to inspect the casing frame. Namely: it is necessary to check for cracks, chips, as well as the absence of signs of decay or woodworm damage. If any of the above factors is detected, the pigtail should be replaced with a new one.

Note that regarding the replacement of the pigtail, you can find many conflicting recommendations on the network, among which there are those that state that when repairing old houses, windows with a metal-plastic frame can be installed without a pigtail. We consider this approach to be wrong, since even old log house with seasonal changes in humidity, it can create a displacement sufficient to jam or even destroy a window.

Of all types of wooden buildings, only in frame house you can not install a sliding casing, but even in this case, the installation of the window is done in a finished wooden frame.

Unlike stone houses, in wooden buildings there is rarely a need for “patching” repair of the place for installation, since the casing almost always provides an even rectangular opening for fixing a new window.

The only exception may be the situation when it is necessary to insert a window that is smaller than the previous one (the need for such a replacement often arises when repairing a bath). In this case, the preparation of the internal opening consists in increasing the thickness of the casing strips.

Frame fitting

The most common mistake, performed when installing a euro-window with your own hands - these are incorrectly taken original dimensions.

Therefore, before you start fixing the window, you need to make sure that it really fits the installation opening.

Trying on the frame is simple - supports 1.5-2 cm thick are laid on the lower casing bar. The frame is installed on them, after which a visual assessment of the remaining gaps is performed.

If in any part of the window they exceed 2.5 cm, you need to think about correcting the geometric dimensions of the frame using extensions.

Separately, we note one nuance - if the size of the gap between the frame and the casing is more than 2 cm, but less than the minimum thickness of the available expander, then there is a temptation to blow it out with foam without any size correction. Many do this, after which they cannot understand why it smells so cold from an expensive PVC window.

It is important to remember: mounting foam is not a full-fledged heat insulator, and in no case can it be a substitute for a window profile.

Window frame installation

After the correspondence between the dimensions of the frame and the opening has been established, you can proceed to the main operations.

Let's list them step by step:

  1. initial positioning. It is carried out in the same way as fitting: the frame is installed on the centering pegs, after which it is necessary to achieve a uniform thickness of the installation gap around the entire perimeter of the frame.
  2. Spatial alignment. For positioning in the vertical plane, it is better to use a plumb line, in the horizontal - the building level. Working fixation is performed using lateral and upper spacers.
  3. After the accuracy of the installation is confirmed, fix the vertical points first, and only after an additional check - the side ones. As mentioned above, fasteners can be long self-tapping screws or anchor plates.
  4. Immediately after the fixing is completed, we recommend installing a flashing tide, since after assembling the window, access to the corresponding mounting positions will be difficult (this moment is especially relevant for windows located on the second floor).
  5. Installing window sashes on workplaces.
  6. Installation of double-glazed windows. Please note that the glass panel must not be placed directly on the plastic of the sash (during dismantling, special gaskets must be saved).
  7. Fixing double-glazed windows with glazing beads (in reverse order).
  8. Close the sashes and check the positioning again.
  9. We carry out installation of accessories.

Once again, we recall what you need to pay special attention to when installing the frame:

  • the position of the transverse line of the window - for wooden houses it should run exactly in the center of the log house;
  • the length of the fixing dowels (if the through fixation method is used) should not exceed the total thickness of the frame and casing boards;
  • to secure the outer tails of the anchor plates, use fasteners that are shorter than the thickness of the casing boards.

window foaming

The next step is to fill the installation gap with mounting foam. Despite the seeming simplicity, this stage has several technical features:

  1. Mounting foam expands during polymerization and the force created in this case is capable of deforming the metal-plastic profile. Therefore, blowing should be done only on a fully assembled and closed window.
  2. If it is intended to use a tape waterproofing option, it is much more convenient to immediately veneer the installation gap area on the outside of the frame.
  3. To simplify the installation of the vapor barrier, we recommend cutting the tape and fixing it on the window frame.

Blowing is done from the inside, after which the seam is immediately sealed with pre-installed pieces of vapor barrier tape.

Possible problems with incorrect installation of windows

Avoiding lengthy discussions on the topic “which windows are better to install so that the savings are truly economical”, we formulate a simple rule: any, even the most expensive window, will not provide the declared characteristics if it is installed incorrectly.

Therefore, in addition to strictly following the above recommendations, it is necessary to avoid the following mistakes:

  • incorrect position of the window along the thickness of the frame. The consequence of the error is freezing and condensate. For classic houses windows made of wood are installed along the middle line. In cases where the house is lined with bricks or lined with thermal insulation, we recommend contacting specialists to calculate the position of the window;
  • no seasonal adjustment. The consequence of the error is a violation of air exchange standards. In those windows, where possible, the adjustment is carried out using the splines set in the desired position.

The company "Master Srubov" accepts orders for finishing, repair and restoration of log and square log cabins, including the installation or replacement of windows. You can clarify the details of cooperation and order the departure of the measurer by contacting our specialists by any of the communication methods published on the page.

Pursuing self-repair, many are interested in:

“Is it possible to install PVC windows with your own hands?”

"How difficult is it?"

This event can be classified as medium-difficult work.

In terms of time, it may take about five hours for a person without experience to work on replacing the middle window, including its dismantling.

Constantly practicing employees of specialized firms spend much less time on this.

The upper and side parts from the inside of the room and from the outside are closed with slopes. They may be made from the same material or using a different technology.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

Measurement

To order plastic windows, you need to make important ones. These are six mandatory indicators: the width and length of the window sill and slope, the width and height of the window.

In order for the measurements to be performed correctly, you need to determine the type of your window opening - with or without a quarter.

The opening is inspected: he and a quarter if inner part the windows are wider, and the outer narrower. Measurements in this case are carried out at the narrowest point, and at several different points. It is necessary to determine the smallest indicator, and add three centimeters to it. This is a measure of the width. The height is set as it is.

In the case of an even opening, without a quarter, the calculation is carried out differently. Height and width are measured, and five cm are subtracted from the first value, and three are the second. This is the height and width of the future window. The side three cm are removed because gaps of one and a half cm are needed for mounting foam on both sides. Five cm of height are distributed as follows: the same one and a half cm from above, and 3.5 cm below will be required for mounting the window sill.

The length of the window sill is considered to be five to ten centimeters greater than the width of the opening inside the room. The length of the ebb is also calculated, but outside. For some distance they go deep into the wall. The window sill is measured on the basis that it should deviate somewhat from.

Its width can be different - at the discretion of the owners. More often it ends a little further than the battery. Before ordering, you need to decide what components will be in your window, and how many of them there will be: is there a capercaillie, if so, where is it located, the number of sashes, how they open, in what positions. The type of fittings used is also considered in advance.

Preparing for installation

Removing old windows

When replacing windows with new ones, the old ones must be dismantled. This is easy to do, but it will take some effort. Then an audit of the opening is carried out, during which everything that can fall off later is removed. All protruding parts are removed with a chisel, hammer or even power tools.

All debris generated during the dismantling process must be carefully removed, including construction dust. In the presence of large cavities or potholes, it is advisable to cover them with a solution. The fact is that the installation is easier to carry out, the smoother the window opening. If the walls are made of too loose material, they should be treated with special ones.

The choice of installation method for metal-plastic windows

Exist various methods installation: with window disassembly (unpacking) and without.


When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchors are driven into the wall. This method is more difficult, but more reliable.

With another method, metal plates are attached to the outside of the frame, then they are fixed to the wall with them. This is much faster, but such a mount is not the most reliable. The frame may sag or warp under significant loads, such as strong winds.

If you do not want to disassemble the window, then for installation it is better to use wide and thick plates used when installing the system. If you install small windows on just such, then they will stand normally in the absence of strong wind loads.

If your region is characterized by frequent and strong winds, which blow mainly through the windows, and the apartment is located on a high floor, installation with disassembly will be required.

Window installation technology

Let's take a closer look at both methods. Indeed, it is often the method of mounting on plates that is required.

It is preferred in buildings erected from low bearing capacity, when it is necessary to distribute the load from windows over a large surface.


Also, this method is necessary in the case of building a building using a special “layered” technology: for example, behind and in front of concrete layers, between which a layer of insulation is placed.

If it is intended to install a window in a soft layer, then it should be fixed with plates. Installation of PVC windows in a house, panel or cinder block is best done on an anchor.

After installation, only a plastic profile will remain in three planes and in two axes of rotation.

Installation with unpacking

With this method, only the frame is installed in the opening.

First, the window opening and the frame itself are measured to make sure they are compatible. Only after that they start working.

The process begins with unpacking the window. Actions are carried out according to the following algorithm:

Removing window sash

  1. the window is placed in the closed position, its handle is directed down;
  2. pry off with a screwdriver and remove the plastic lining from the hinges;
  3. the pin on the top hinge serves as a movable connection, it is located in the center and protrudes slightly. By pressing, you need to slightly drown it so that it slides out below. Then it is grabbed with pliers (or side cutters) and pulled down;
  4. hold the sash at the top, turn the handle, opening the lock. Top part deviates slightly towards itself, the sash rises and is removed from the pin at the bottom.

The double-glazed window is also removed on the capercaillie. It is held by glazing beads, which are removed, after which it can be easily removed.

Beads are removed

  1. something strong and narrow is inserted between the frame and the glazing bead, for which it is convenient to use a spatula. Disassembly usually starts on the long side;
  2. the angle of the spatula is inserted into the slot and the glazing bead is gently moved away from the frame, moving along the entire length. The separated glazing bead is taken out;
  3. with a short side is even simpler: the freed edge is hooked and removed from the groove by turning the spatula. By pulling it up, the glazing bead is removed.

After all of the above activities, you can try to pull out the double-glazed window. You should be careful that it does not fall out: it is quite heavy.

The double-glazed window is pulled out

  • along the outer perimeter, the released frame is glued with self-adhesive tape, as recommended by GOST, so that the future window does not dry out;
  • remove the protective tape;
  • a prepared frame is inserted into the opening. For its exposure, mounting wedges are required, which are placed under the impost and in the corners, as well as in places where it is necessary. They are gradually laid down, while the window is aligned in three planes, strictly according to the level. The position of the window is fixed using mounting plates;
  • with a drill with a drill of the right size, fixing holes are made, retreating 15-18 cm from the top edge for the first of them. At approximately the same distance from the bottom corner there will be a place for the lower fastener. In a standard window, another anchor is placed between them: the distance between adjacent fasteners should not exceed 70 cm;
  • having made holes for fastening, in all three planes they check the position of the frame - whether it has moved. After that, the anchor is carefully hammered in, tightened, but not overtightened. It is impossible for the profile to sag;

Arrangement of low tides from the street side

  • self-adhesive vapor-permeable insulation is glued outside the frame. Neat strobes are made on the sides of the opening: later, the edges of the tides will be brought into them;
  • on the outer part of the opening, in the place where the tide is supported on the wall, a mounting foam is applied. In some cases (with large elevation differences), a lining profile is first mounted, to which the ebb is attached. The ebb of the desired size is fixed with screws to the frame under its ledge;
  • the tide foams along the bottom edge;
  • the opening is also foamed. In summer, for a better setting of the foam, the space between the opening and the frame is sprayed with water;
  • a heat-insulating vapor-permeable strip is glued along the contour of the window frame;
  • all gaps for two-thirds of the volume are filled with foam. With a large gap, it is necessary to do this in several stages, with an interval of at least ten minutes between applications. After the first layer dries, it is sprayed with water, then the next one is applied;
  • until complete polymerization has occurred, the edge of the tape is glued to the window opening. It is important to remember that when using heat-insulating tape, the slopes must be made of plastic. Mortar and plaster do not stick to it;
  • all parts of the window are assembled;
  • vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill, at the bottom. In the same place, support pads made of solid


Installing windows in a wooden house is significantly different from installing windows in brick and stone houses. For example, the openings of buildings made of logs and timber, as a rule, have a quarter, but not from the inside, but from the outside.

Shrinkage

But the most important difference between houses made of wood (does not apply to frame-panel houses) is the ability to shrink as a result of drying of the wall material (logs, timber). And this moment is decisive in the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house, because if you install a window, as usual, in a bare opening, it will inevitably be crushed and deformed by the shrinkage process.

There is an opinion that the first two are the most active period of wood drying. But it's not. After the construction of the house, the shrinkage of the walls continues for decades. But that is not all. The tree not only gives off moisture, but also absorbs. Therefore, rigid fastening when installing windows in a wooden house is impossible in principle!

  • Shrinkage in a log house - about 10 - 15 mm per log D = 250-300 mm
  • Shrinkage in a house made of timber - about 7 - 10 mm per one timber with a section of 150x150 mm
  • Glued laminated timber - unknown.

There are other ways to calculate the shrinkage height of log cabins as a percentage: about 10-15% of the original height. But in fact, the shrinkage of houses made of timber and logs depends on many factors:

  • from the material (log, rounded log, timber, glued timber);
  • from the time of material procurement ( winter harvest or summer)
  • from time of day(morning, evening) Yes-Yes!!! Don't be surprised - explored this too!
  • from where the forest grew (marsh, field);on the degree of resinousness and density of the tree;
  • on the dimensions of the material - both its length and thickness;
  • from the moisture content of the material;
  • on the size of the building;on construction technology (nagel, type of felling, etc.);
  • from the material of interventional insulation;from the type of wood;
  • from the time of year when construction is underway.

The strongest shrinkage occurs in log cabins from ordinary logs, then rounded logs, profiled timber, timber, glued timber go down.
Even if the house is more than a dozen years old, it is still necessary when installing windows in a wooden house to take into account the vertical movements of the walls as a result of an increase or decrease in humidity and air temperature at different times of the year.


Wooden house - Live

A wooden house is a constantly moving structure, compared to buildings made of stone and concrete. Therefore, the installation of windows in a wooden house is not carried out in the opening itself, but in a special wooden box acting as a link between the window and the wall. They call this box differently: casing, salary, deck, pigtail, linden.

As can be seen from the photo, the casing is an ordinary window frame made of four, sometimes three (sides and top) thick boards, installed inside the opening.



The meaning of this design lies in the fact that it is independent of the vertical movements of the wall and moves freely in the opening, since it is not attached to the logs (beam) with nails, screws, or other fasteners, but is held with the help of grooves in the side posts, planted on the spikes at the ends of the logs. Even foam is not used to seal the gaps around the pigtails - only tow, jute (lnovatin) and other soft insulation.

Shrinkage clearance

Please note: a large gap is specially left above the pigtail, the size of which is designed for the maximum possible shrinkage of logs (beams). During the first years after the construction of the house, this compensation gap will gradually decrease to the minimum, but the upper log (beam) of the opening at correct calculation will not crush or deform the pigtail. Thus, the shrinkage of the house will not affect the size and shape of the pigtail in any way, and, accordingly, will not damage the plastic window inside it.

Shrink gap size




If you decide to install windows in an old wooden house, which has long gone through the shrinkage process, then, when disassembling the window blocks, you will probably notice: they are made according to the same principle as the casing design described here, i.e. not nailed to the beams of the opening, but fixed in it using a simple "groove-thorn" system on the sides.



This suggests that the technology for installing windows and doors in a wooden house in a pigtail was invented a very long time ago, and is used with success to this day. We will not invent anything new and will go the same way.

There are several ways to install a pigtail (for more details, follow the link):

  • t-shaped pigtail - a groove is made at the ends of the opening logs, a t-shaped profile is laid into it;
  • p-shaped - the spike is cut out at the ends of the opening logs, and the groove is made in the side posts of the casing).

We make both options, as they determine the maximum strength and stability of the opening, because the pigtail not only protects the window from shrinkage of the walls, but also ensures the stability of the wall at the place where the opening is cut.

Briefly, the sequence of our actions will be as follows:we cut an opening in the wall, the dimensions of which slightly exceed the dimensions of the inserted plastic window;



We form a groove for a T-shaped pigtail;




We form a spike for a p-shaped pigtail;




We make pigtail parts;




We install the pigtail in the finished opening;



We install a window in a wooden house in a pigtail, aligning it flush along the front edge (we fasten it with self-tapping screws of such a length that they do not pierce the pigtail through and enter the logs (timber);




We blow out the gap between the frame of the plastic window and the window with foam, not forgetting about the waterproofing device (outside) and vapor barrier (inside - suitable for a draft window for sheathing, for finishing it is not required, since the window rests on a quarter) foam seam;




we install external platbands (we fasten to the casing);




we carry out the interior decoration of the window (window sill, slopes - it is not required when finishing the pigtail, since it is the slopes and the window sill).




We use foam only inside the pigtails. We insulate the gaps around it with traditional flax fiber or jute linen.




For the next 5 years (if the house is freshly built), we will have to periodically remove the trim and gradually reduce the amount of insulation invested there. If this is not done, then the upper parts may bend.




Even after complete shrinkage of the house, the gaps around the casing should never be sealed with foam.

Preparing the opening for installing a window in a wooden house

Before sawing, we mark the window opening with the help of a level, because the plastic window will be installed strictly according to the level in all planes, therefore the pigtail should also be installed in the opening as accurately as possible in the initial level.




The lower crown in the opening must be sawn through, so that a flat horizontal platform is obtained.




The dimensions of the opening are determined based on the dimensions of the plastic window, the thickness of the casing bars and the size of the required gaps.

All calculations are performed visually. Here is an example of a scheme for calculating the dimensions of an opening for a draft T-shaped pigtail:




Accordingly, we take a bar with a section of 100x150 mm and cut out a T-shaped profile.




Here is a scheme for calculating the details of a finishing p-type pigtail:




For a p-shaped pigtail, we cut out a p-shaped profile from a solid bar.



The size of the shrinkage gap (H shrink) is not easy to determine, since the amount of shrinkage at home, as mentioned above, depends on many factors. If we, for example, calculate roughly, taking everything to the maximum, then for a window of a standard height of 1400 mm (plus the thickness of the casing beams, plus mounting clearances of ~ 245 mm), with a 15% shrinkage, the upper clearance will be 24.5 cm - a huge hole , the height of which, most likely, will eventually turn out to be unnecessarily large.

To simplify the task and avoid mistakes, you should not rack your brains over GOSTs that regulate the shrinkage values ​​​​of building materials of various tree species, comparing this with local climatic conditions, etc.
You can do it easier, namely:

If you are building new house, then start installing windows in it no earlier than a year after the construction of the log house in order to wait out the period of the most active shrinkage. Then, during the manufacture and installation of the pigtail, the size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be safely made 60-50 mm for a log house, 50-40 mm for a log house and 40 mm for a house made of glued beams;

If your house has stood for more than five years, then the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be made minimal - 40 millimeters, only to compensate for possible seasonal changes in the geometric dimensions of the opening;

So, we calculated the size of the opening, marked it out and cut it out. Now you need to cut a spike at the ends of the logs (beams) on the sides of the opening. The spike is also marked with a level in the center of the log (beam).




We make the size of the spike 60 mm - width and 40 mm height.




We sew the side and lower part of the opening with linen or jute using a stapler.



Making pigtails

First, you need to decide on the width of the pigtail bars: it should either be equal to the thickness of the wall, or be slightly larger, so that later, when installing the outer trim, they (platbands) fit tightly on the pigtail, and not on the wall. There is another option in a log house - a patch around the opening along the width of the groove.

Secondly, to make a pigtail, you need to take a well-dried material, otherwise assembled structure It will deform on its own as it dries.

First we cut out the lower part (window sill), making it 10 cm longer than the width of the opening. At the ends of the window sill, we cut a groove for a spike 65 mm wide and 40 mm deep.




Also, at the ends of both window sills, we make small recesses of 20 mm each for joining the crossbars with the side posts - the so-called locks.

We make side racks with a height exceeding the height of the plastic window frame by 70 mm. On the reverse sides of the racks, using a circular saw, we cut a groove for a spike 60 mm wide and 40 mm deep. We immediately make a lock for the upper part in the side racks.




Lastly, we make the upper part of the pigtail. Based on the dimensions obtained between the two installed side parts.

Installing a pigtail

We start installing the pigtail in the opening from the bottom crossbar (window sill). Then, an apex is inserted into the opening, under which we alternately substitute the side racks, putting them in grooves on the spikes.




We fasten the pigtail elements together with self-tapping screws and, if desired (not necessary), coat the joints with sealant. We caulk the gaps around the casing with ordinary tow, but without much fanaticism, so that the details do not arch out.

We plug the upper shrinkage gap with soft insulation such as Rocwool or holofiber. This operation is best done after installing windows and external trim. Read more in the article ""

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Now you can start installing the window.

Installing a window in a wooden house

We install a wooden or plastic window by aligning it with the front edge of the pigtail. Bring the window inward by a third of the thickness of the wall, as is done in a panel or brick house, there is no need here due to the lower coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood (smaller freezing depth).

Especially with the small thickness of the walls of a wooden house, deepening the window into the opening, we will be forced to cut the already narrow window sill. And the ledge that is formed as a result from the outside of the opening will have to be additionally closed and sealed. And as measurements taken by a thermal imager show, the main conductor of cold is the profile itself. For more details in the photo report made from photographs from the thermal imager, see here.



Black box for trim

If you calculated the dimensions of the opening and the pigtails as described above, then the mounting gaps around the window frame when installed in a wooden house should be 15 mm on the sides, 15 mm on the top and 15 mm on the bottom (the lower gap is not made larger, because the stand profile makes it possible later lead under the frame plastic window sill, which is 30 mm thick).

It is more convenient to fasten the frame to the pigtail using self-tapping screws the size of such calculations so that they enter the body of the pigtail, but do not penetrate the wall. We drill holes in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 mm. Using self-tapping screws with a length exceeding the thickness of the pigtail is dangerous because they will pass through the pigtail and screw into the logs (bar), which is unacceptable.




Provided that all preparatory work were done using a level, the window frame should line up exactly on the pigtail, i.e. the front edge of the pigtail should be parallel to the plane of the window, without noticeable distortions.

Window waterproofing from the outside

Before foaming the gap between the window and the pigtail, it is necessary to decide with what material we will waterproof the installation seam from the street side. As you know, the two main enemies of foam are sunlight and water. If we can simply close the mounting seam from the sun with platbands or flashings, then the situation is more complicated with waterproofing, because it must meet two basic conditions: do not let water in and at the same time not prevent moisture vapor from escaping from the inside to the outside. Well, and, of course, waterproofing must be resistant to prolonged weathering.

All these conditions are met by such materials as PSUL, waterproofing vapor-permeable tape and special sealant "STIZ-A".
Sealant "STIZ-A" - a one-component vapor-permeable acrylic sealant of white color for sealing the outer layer - is characterized by good adhesion to the main building materials: plastic, concrete, polymer concrete, foam concrete, plaster, brick and wood including.

It is also resistant to UV radiation, precipitation, temperature deformation and can be applied even at negative temperatures down to -20 degrees. The only disadvantage of this material is that it is difficult to find it in small containers, and it makes sense to buy a whole bucket when you install a lot of windows. If you choose STIZ-A as an external waterproofing, then the procedure will be as follows: first we foam the window, then, after complete drying, cut off the foam sticking out from the outside and after that, using a spatula, apply sealant to the cut.

Vapor-permeable waterproofing tape (self-adhesive butyl rubber tape, consisting of a vapor-diffusion membrane with an adhesive sealant layer on one or both sides) is sold in rolls of different widths. In our case, a tape with a width of 70 mm is suitable. When using this tape as waterproofing, orient it correctly when gluing.




You can determine this by blowing into it from one side and the other (do not forget to remove the paper first). Since there is a membrane inside the tape, the passage of air is only possible in one direction. The side from which it is impossible to "blow through" the tape is the outer (street).

The sequence of actions (first tape, then foam or first foam, then tape) does not of great importance, but it must be taken into account that the foam, expanding upon drying, not only pulls the tape with a bubble (it will interfere with the installation of platbands later), but in general can tear it off the window or the pigtail.




Therefore, if you stick the tape in the first place, then immediately screw the trim or hard flashings on top of it, and only then foam it. Or foam first, wait for the foam to dry, cut off the excess and stick the tape on the same day so as not to expose the foam cut to prolonged weathering.

PSUL - pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (similar to foam rubber), impregnated with a special composition, due to which it is waterproof and vapor-permeable. Supplied in a compressed state, rolled into rollers.

If you opt for PSUL tape, then buy the one that expands more than 30 mm. PSUL will have to be glued not to the outer side of the frame profile, but to the end near the front edge. This should be done after fixing the frame in the opening, but before foaming. Of course, it is more convenient to glue the frame with PSUL before installation, when it lies on the floor, but then the installation will have to be done at an accelerated pace, because after a few minutes the tape will expand and interfere with work.

The assembly seam should be foamed only after the PSUL has fully expanded and blocked the assembly gap. But here the same problem is quite possible as with the waterproofing tape: the foam expanding when it dries can squeeze the PSUL out. This can be avoided by pressing the PSUL from the street side with platbands or flashings.

Internal window vapor barrier

From the inside, the foam should also not remain open in order to prevent moisture from entering it from the room air. For the device of internal vapor barrier, you can use a vapor barrier tape, which has already been described in the main section of this site, or use acrylic sealant SAZILAST-11 ("STIZ-B").

The vapor barrier tape is glued to the end of the frame with a thin adhesive strip before foaming. Immediately after foaming, the protective paper is removed from the wide adhesive strip, and the tape is glued to the pigtail. While the foam under the tape has not hardened, it is advisable to immediately install the window sill and screw the starting profile to the edges of the frame, otherwise the tape "inflated" with foam will interfere with this later.

Sazilast is applied to the hardened foam, more precisely, to its cut. In this case, it is no longer necessary to rush to install window sills and the starting profile, as when using a tape. Nothing will stop you from doing it later, when it's convenient.

Interior decoration

The interior decoration of a window in a wooden house (window sills, slopes) is not much different from the decoration in a panel or brick house. It’s even a little simpler here: you don’t need to drill holes for installing slopes - we fix everything with self-tapping screws into a tree (into a pigtail).

It is also not required to additionally insulate the slopes from the inside with foam or other material. To be safe, it is enough to foam the inner surface of the casing with a narrow strip next to the slope before installing the slopes. assembly seam. This will be enough, because the tree does not freeze through as deeply as concrete or brick.

Okosyachka as - window sill and slopes

This method of installing a window in a wooden house allows you to save on slopes and window sills, gain time and achieve a greater, in my opinion, aesthetic effect, but this will require a good woodworking machine to evenly cut the so-called reverse quarter on the casing elements, into which install a plastic window.






What is a reverse quarter can be easily understood from the figure. This is the recess in which the window frame will be installed from the street side. Quarter depth - 20 mm. The width is made exactly corresponding to the thickness of the frame, for example: for a 5-chamber VEKA, the profile thickness is 70 mm, therefore the width of the back quarter should be 70 mm.




It is important to accurately calculate the dimensions of the pigtail and window, carefully assemble the pigtail and install the pigtail into the opening exactly according to the level - the inner clearance should have the shape of a regular rectangle, and all faces of the outer edge should be located in the same plane without skew. In order not to be mistaken in size, it is better to first make and install a pigtail, and only then accurately measure and order a plastic window in place.

Let's assume that the pigtail is already installed in the opening. The size of the plastic window is made in such a way that it turns out to be slightly larger than the "clearance" of the casing, or rather: 10 mm more in width and the same in height. From the inside, such a window will not enter the pigtail, but it will easily enter the opposite quarter from the street side. In this case, the edges of the frame will “hide” behind a quarter of 5 mm on each side (no longer possible - the leaf hinges will interfere), and an assembly gap will remain around the frame, which will later be filled with foam.

The frame is attached to the pigtail with self-tapping screws, as already described above. To ensure a beautiful hermetic joining of the frame and casing from the side of the room, a D-shaped door seal can be used. It is glued before installing the frame with the adhesive side on the edge of the quarter. Accordingly, the dimensions of the quarter must be adjusted for the seal.

But, as practice shows, quality workmanship pigtails, the need for such an addition disappears. The window is placed directly in the quarter and the meringue of the gaps is pressed tightly against the pigtail.




When attaching the frame, we firmly press it to the quarter, compressing the seal, and screw in the screws, fixing the window in this position. Installed window foaming from the street. Then, after the foam has dried, its excess is cut off, the seam is sealed with a waterproofing tape or smeared with STIZ-A sealant, and platbands are installed.

Of course, since we are giving up interior decoration any additional elements, then they must ennoble it, i.e. give it a look that matches the interior design of the room.

First of all, you need to give the lower crossbar the shape of a window sill so that its inner edge protrudes slightly from the wall and is slightly wider than the opening.




Second - we make the "dawn" of the inner surfaces of the racks and the top, i.e. we abandon the primitive rectangular (in cross section) shape of these elements and cut out a large chamfer, simulating the turn of the slopes.

Next, we process the inner surface of the casing elements. There are many options: texture, color - the choice is yours. You can simply sand the surface and varnish it. You can cover the tree with wood stain desired color so that the surface of the casing is in harmony with the color of the window and / or the color of the walls.

There is also, in my opinion, an interesting, but more costly option - to brush the surface, i.e. process antique.

Artificial aging of antique wood is now very popular in various design styles. The essence of brushing technology is to remove soft fibers from the surface of wood with a metal brush (along the fibers), while the surface turns from smooth to embossed. After giving the relief texture, the wood is cleaned of pile and fibers, then the final gloss is given.




You can immediately cover the tree with varnish, but the "aged" wood will look much more effective after being treated with a stain of the color you need. However, there is an even more spectacular way of coloring - patting - creating a contrast between dark wood pores and a lighter surface.

This is achieved with the help of paint of the desired color: the entire front surface of the casing is covered with it, and then the top layer is removed with a cloth until the paint has had time to dry. Final stage artificial aging- varnishing. It is applied in two or three layers. Then you can rub the surface soft cloth to add gloss.

Unlike foam or reinforced concrete buildings, wooden houses have high instability. This term refers to the minimum, but constant shrinkage of the structure. The tree “shrinks” not for 2-3 years, as some experts believe, but for at least 5 years. Of course, shrinkage visible to the naked eye occurs during the first 12 months, but then the dwelling continues to decrease in volume. If you do not take into account this property and, for example, install a plastic window in a wooden house, by analogy with reinforced concrete structures, you can seriously pay for the miscalculation.

Shrinkage of timber and logs is from 1 to 2 cm per meter of masonry. That is, a two-story wooden house can reduce the height by 10-12 cm in 5 years. If the owners decide to insert plastic windows using conventional technologies, they will be disappointed in a year. With all its mass, the structure will put pressure on PVC products; first, the sashes will stop opening, and then the frame will crack altogether, ceasing to perform heat-insulating functions. But you do not need to take extraordinary measures to properly install plastic windows - just install them in window opening pigtail.

Design features

The purpose of the pigtail (otherwise called casing) is to give the windows complete independence from bearing walls Houses. The design has several undeniable advantages:

  • it eliminates even the minimum vertical load on the window, since it does not allow the logs to move;
  • does not interfere with the natural shrinkage of the house;
  • serves to strengthen the house in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe window opening.

There are two types of framing. In the first case, grooves are made in which wooden bars the same dimensions as a window opening. In the second, a comb is cut out in the latter, on which a gun carriage (a log hewn from opposite sides, better known as a gable beam) with a groove is fixed.

It is advisable to install plastic windows in a log house (or log house) with an assistant, since the installation of a pigtail requires high precision, and with the mass of double-glazed windows it is sometimes difficult to cope with one person.

Required Tools

to install PVC windows, you will need a basic set of building supplies, including:

  • drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • chisel;
  • building level;
  • roulette;
  • mallet (wooden mallet);
  • self-tapping screws no more than 10 cm long (elongated options violate the integrity of logs or timber);
  • mounting foam;
  • expansion wedges made of wood;
  • spray bottle with water;
  • gloves.

In addition, you will need a special adjusting hexagon for window structures. On the topic of installing windows in wooden structures Hundreds of videos have been filmed and are easy to find. However, the basic and most valuable tips are given below.

Surface preparation stage

The first step is to remove the old window. If its condition is not bad, it can be useful in another matter (for example, during the construction of a country greenhouse). The dismantling of windows is carried out carefully so as not to spoil the wooden walls. After that, the opening is cleaned of dust and dirt.

Measurement of the parameters of the window opening should be as accurate as possible. It is advisable to record the obtained values ​​​​on paper. Installing a new window is simple, but due to one millimeter miscalculation, it can be very skewed.

If the contour of the opening is not quite smooth, it will have to be leveled with putty or sealant. A properly prepared surface for a new PVC product is characterized by ideal geometry (right angles).

It is also necessary to withstand the margin for shrinkage at home. This is about 6 cm in height, 2 cm in height and sides for foaming, 4 cm under the windowsill.

Depending on the time of the year and the current stage of construction, the order of double-glazed windows either precedes dismantling or becomes the final stage. Few people want to put a window in a wooden house and change it in a year or two, so you need to take into account some points. The buyer should decide on the number of doors, the direction of their opening, shape, size, color of future products. And, of course, you should place an order with reliable manufacturers.

Installation instructions for PVC windows

The ideal distance from the floor to the windowsill will be 80-90 cm. This is a little higher desk. The user must freely lean on the window sill, minimally bending the body. The further sequence of actions is given below.

  1. Precise marking is carried out for the side and lower spikes (5 × 5 cm), after which they are cut out.
  2. In previously prepared and well-dried boards (preferably one inch), holes are cut out to fill the spikes.
  3. The window opening and the blank of the pigtails are treated with antifungal impregnation.
  4. Insulation (jute tape, tow, etc.) is attached to the spike using a construction stapler.
  5. The casing structure is installed in the opening, starting from the window sill. Its elements are connected with self-tapping screws, and the joints are coated with sealant.

In general, the window frame is ready, it remains only to insulate the upper landing gap. The same jute will do; the lumen is caulked as tightly as possible. Now you can mount a plastic window inside the opening. To do this, do the following:

  1. Insert the double-glazed window into the opening, perfectly aligning it with the front edge. Applying a level, make sure that the geometry of the sides is correct. First, for the convenience of work, remove the sashes from the double-glazed windows.
  2. Fix the frame inside the opening with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in it.
  3. Fill the gaps between the double-glazed window and casing with polyurethane foam.
  4. While the foam has not hardened, install the window sill, screw it on.
  5. After the foam has dried, waterproof it from the outside with acrylic sealant, sealing tape or a vapor-permeable membrane, and from the inside with a vapor barrier tape.

Due to mounting additional design(casing) it may seem that it is difficult to insert windows in a timber or log house, but this is not so. To be calm about the durability of the structure and the reliable performance of PVC products, it is better to allocate a couple of hours for additional work. The casing will avoid unnecessary expenses as the dwelling shrinks, and will also save the plastic novelty from deformation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6s3VKuxmy4o Video can "t be loaded: Installing a plastic window in a casing in a wooden house or log house (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6s3VKuxmy4o)

Reading time ≈ 6 minutes

Every builder knows how to install wooden windows in a wooden house, but ordinary residents of private houses cannot do this with their own hands. The reason is the lack of knowledge, although ordering such a procedure from experts will cost a pretty penny. Read the information below to make your home as comfortable and warm as possible.

Grandparents know perfectly well what a wooden frame is. After all, before such windows were on every corner. The process of installing a wooden window requires special skills and abilities from the master in order to get the right result. It is the experience and skill of the master that directly affects the quality of installation, compliance with tightness, service life, and appearance generally. And in order to avoid drafts and unnecessary distortions, let's look at the correct instructions for installing wooden windows step by step. When installing a wooden window, one cannot do without skill and certain skills, but then it will be possible to make an excellent glazed one.

Features of installation and dismantling of old wooden windows

Before installing wooden windows in a wooden house, you should listen to the recommendations of experienced craftsmen in order to effectively carry out the operation with your own hands. Especially if you have never experienced this kind of work before. It is best to transfer such a process into the hands of a master who knows all the secrets of installation firsthand. After all, the lack of necessary skills can lead to the fact that the frame will be damaged. And their cost is quite high, so spending extra money on repairs is expensive. In addition, repair is not always possible. However, it is often necessary to install products, for example, in.

Woodworking enthusiasts can delve into the details of the installation and try their hand at this craft. If you follow the recommendations, you will not only be able to install a wooden window with high quality, but also save a lot.

Tip: in the case of ordering a new wooden window, it is worth leaving the installation in the hands of the manufacturer. The fact is that in this way all guarantees for this design will be preserved. And if the installation is independent, then all your mistakes will remain on your conscience.

In any case, before installing new window frames, it is worth removing the old structures. This item does not apply to houses that are under construction. By following the correct sequence of actions, you will greatly facilitate your task:

  1. Before work, you need to prepare the room. If possible, it is better to move small interior details, clothes and furniture to another room. Thus, your things will be safe and sound.
  2. The furniture that was left in the room, and flooring worth securing. To do this, it is enough to cover them with a film.
  3. Floor coverings should also be removed. This includes a carpet, carpet, path, etc.

After such preparations, you can proceed to the very dismantling of the old window. To do this, carefully, but applying force, you need to disassemble the wooden frame. At the same time, the slopes are beaten off along with the plaster. This operation will help you determine the presence of a lintel. Without this element, the structure is dangerous. In older buildings, such a "hack" is found all the time. If you are also one of the lucky ones, then further actions are impossible without solving such an issue with professional builders, and you don’t need to meddle there yourself. But experience will help you further develop in the direction, and then completely.

Then beat off the slopes in all places. Take a close look at each wall to see if there are embedded bars on which the window frame is fixed. It is worth immediately determining their condition.

Mortgage bars in the wall

Tip: In order to find out if these bars need to be replaced or not, use a regular awl. It is worth sticking it in a bar. If it sits tight and is difficult to pull out, then everything is in order. Their presence is not necessary to install a new window.

The importance of correct measurement of parameters

Replacing any window requires the correct measurement of parameters. This will determine how perfectly the window fits into the window opening. If you have a wooden house, then cleaning should take place up to the level of the casing. Now you can start taking measurements. It is important to measure clearly and in the right places. Even a small mistake can cross out everything.

Even if you have saved previous measurements, it is not a fact that they will fit now. After all, over time, any building is influenced external factors. It is important to create a wooden window slightly smaller than the opening itself. So you can correctly set the frame in relation to the horizon using the correction. To do this, subtract 15 - 25 mm from the height, and as much as 4 - 6 cm from the width indicator.

All parameters are taken from ideal lines (horizontal and vertical). To create them, use the building level. Modern devices, for example, a tape measure with a laser, will greatly simplify all measurements. After all, it will give a real indicator for each parameter. It is also important to know how if they are located on the upper floors.

Wooden window installation step by step

Before mounting a wooden frame, it is necessary to prepare the right tools. For work you will need:

  • drill and perforator;
  • pliers with a hammer;
  • screwdrivers;
  • perhaps a saw and a planer with an axe.

It will not be superfluous to buy a sealant on silicone, mounting foam, roofing material (polyurethane). These materials are useful in order to seal the opening.

If a wooden window is installed in a wooden house, then the technology involves the use of support blocks.

Initially, the installation of wooden windows in a wooden house with your own hands begins with protecting the window from moisture, which can be provided by a wooden wall. After all, such moisture provokes the occurrence of mold and various fungal growths. And all this spoils the wood very quickly. Therefore, it is necessary to glue parts of the roofing material in the opening. It sits well on silicone. Here is what you should do:

  1. Blocks (length 12 - 15 cm) made of wood. One end should already be under the frame. The widest point should correspond to the distance between the frame and the wall. You need at least 4 pieces.
  2. 2 pieces are installed at the bottom of the opening. There should be about 80 cm between them (depending on the size of the wooden window).
  3. Remove the sashes from your frame and place it in the opening itself on supports. Keep the required slope - at least 10 cm.

  1. The remaining pads are set according to this scheme, as in the photo. They shouldn't be too tight, so use a planer to lighten them up if necessary. Constantly adhere to the vertical (plumb test) and horizontal (level test) so that there are not even small distortions.
  2. When everything is set perfectly, you can pull out the block one at a time, fill this place with sealant and insert it back.
  3. The hardest part is behind. Now it's up to the mounting foam. With its help, all the cracks around the perimeter are closed. You need to work with it carefully, and after drying, simply cut off the excess parts with a knife.

You can learn more about installing windows from the video. Now you know perfectly well how to install wooden windows in a wooden house, and you can do it yourself, and not spend extra money on the work of builders. The main thing is attention and patience.