How to make slopes on the front door with your own hands: tips and tricks Do-it-yourself door slope installation: installation and paneling PVC slopes for entrance doors

What to be the door in the apartment, metal or wood, you decide. And we will show you how to independently, without unnecessary hassle and loss of time, correctly install the door slopes on the front door with your own hands.

And so, when the doors to the apartment are already installed, it's time to start installing the slopes. It is they who guarantee the reliability and safety of the room, as well as protection that protects against heat loss. Soundproofing in the apartment and on the corridor depends on them.

The outer part of the doors is often treated with platbands, puttied with mortar or mounted during installation. The inner side requires special attention and is much more difficult to deal with.

The surface of the apartment door looks like a slab of concrete or brick, strewn with various fasteners and bolts. To cultivate this species, it is necessary to install slopes. This type of work can be performed by door manufacturers if it is specified in the contract or has been previously discussed. If there is no such service, the installation should be carried out independently.

The process of installing the slopes of the front door is not particularly difficult, however, you must be on the alert and take all actions following the instructions. What? How? And why? We tell.

The purpose of the slope design is to increase the door's burglary resistance, correct the surface, hide the fasteners from the eyes and, most noticeably, improve the appearance.

Let's figure it out existing types formation of slope structures:

  • Treatment with mortars and plaster.
  • Fastening finishing material to the solution.
  • Sheathing of the frame, produced using finishing materials.

This division arose due to the difference in the method of creating a slope, which is created by a variety of materials for sheathing.

The most popular of them:

  • MDF (wood fiber board),
  • laminate,
  • drywall sheets,
  • plastic sheets and cellulose panels,
  • wooden coverings.

The main task is to decide on the material and start implementing the plan.

First way

If you rely on the protection of the room and the sound insulation in it, we carry out the sealing with a solution, then this option will be the most acceptable. Upon completion, we get a slope without voids and not amenable to the formation of deflections.

This option is simple both in implementation and in external characteristics.

Second way

If you add color or textured tiles to such a scheme, it will turn out in a designer way. And you yourself will act as this specialist. To implement the second type is simply through the use of finishing materials that are attached to the solution.

This option helps to achieve absolutely any visual perception. In terms of efficiency, it is akin to the first type, but also more beautiful.

Third way

The third method is carried out by mounting any finishing material.

So, on a constructed frame, presented from a metal profile or, which is no less common, wooden bars, drywall, plastic or wood-fiber cloth is attached.

This method is appropriate if the two previous types are very costly and require a large number materials.

In addition, this design looks more presentable and allows you to install lighting directly above the door. And this will illuminate the passerby from the very entrance to the apartment. This type of slope is more convenient for laying an Internet cable or interactive cable television.

Step 1: Design preparation

Preparatory work with each type of slope formation does not differ. Before starting, the door itself and the entrance opening must be pasted over with a film - this is done in order to protect the canvas from possible deformations.

After that, all the irregularities should be “combed”, creating a smooth surface so that the convex particles are not visible.

After that, the surface is primed (with such types of primers that have full penetration) and overcast.

If the walls are made of a material characterized as loose, a surface primer should be used.

At the preliminary stage, it is better to immediately take care and lay the cable responsible for the light transmission. If the slope is planned to be made with a frame mount, then the conducted light cable is installed upon completion of the work.

Nuance: first draw an image of the future frame on the floor and focus on these indicators. Such marks will help to avoid errors in the form.

Step 2: Plastering the prepared slope

On a pre-formed surface, already primed, the so-called beacon profiles are installed. They allow you to make the surface as even as possible when distributed on the surface of the solution. These mini-fences are also attached to the solution.

It is most appropriate to use gypsum here, because its properties (dry quickly) help to quickly deal with the next step.

So, along the edges of the ends we put a few drops of the solution and install beacons-stabilizers. Use a bubble level to correct their position.

From the moment the mortar hardens, we fill the slopes with mortar. This is a cement-sandy substance. Its mixing ratio is 1:4. The consistency of the mass should resemble thick sour cream.

After adding plaster to small quantities. The resulting ready-made solution must be applied to the surface and aligned with the beacons.

At the end of the day (it is during this time that the solution dries up), you can proceed to the next step - applying putty. With an abrasive mesh, we level the dried putty by that time. And the final step will be painting the slope.

Step 3: Shaping the slope with finishing materials

Already on the leveled and primed surface on which the level was marked, we set the necessary emphasis for the sheathing material. This is done by screwing the screws into the wall until the head matches the height of the cladding. And only after that we fill all the spaces with a solution around the perimeter.

First layer

The first layer - we apply a cement-sand mortar with a thin layer up to half the length of the protruding screws.

next layer

The next layer - with an adhesive solution suitable for your type of material, compare the surface of the slope and go to the joints of the first layer of material from the back side. After that, we try to install the sheets so that they become close to the caps of the self-tapping screws.

You can check your work by applying a level to the slope.

Until the solution is dry, we correct the errors. We close all the gaps between the sheathing sheets with a mortar and only after that we fix the platbands, if necessary.

Step 4: Mounting the structure on the frame

In the case of installing a frame, we pre-treat the wall with a primer. This process will prevent premature sprinkling and will allow you to do the job better.

After that, materials are prepared from which the mounting process will be carried out. These are most often bars, a metal profile or ordinary slats.

Depending on the thickness of the material used, we prime the wall to such a level that the frame can be leveled and perfectly installed in the future. Along the perimeter of the opening along the edges, 2 rivers and 2 profiles are attached in parallel. To reinforce the structure, jumpers are attached, focusing on the floor seams of the sides.

Upon completion of these works, we fix the frame using impact screws and dowels. It must be taken into account that first we lay the cable for wiring the light and only after that we fix the source with sheathing.

The fastening of the skin has differences that depend on the material used:

  • We fix drywall around the perimeter using self-tapping screws. The resulting gap between the wall and the sheets is filled with a solution or we mount the platbands. The edges of the sheets are reinforced with perforated corners. The joints are sealed with sickle (construction tape). The resulting surface is puttied and leveled with a fine abrasive grater. And as the final stage - painting or wallpapering.
  • MDF (wood fiber board, characterized by medium density). This plate is distinguished by the most aesthetic indicators, wear resistance and strength. Unlike previously described. Fixing MDF is carried out with small nails, self-tapping screws or clamps. It is important in this technique to make sure that any of the species used does not interfere with the subsequent installation of the slope structure. By using fibreboard, corners and joints are closed with corners or platbands with liquid nails.
  • Laminate strips are laid along and across, which does not matter at all, except for visual perception. However, it must be taken into account: in the transverse technique - the first blade is attached to the bottom of the frame along the edges, in the longitudinal one - in the center and along the edges. In addition, in the first technique, after fastening, all subsequent elements are fastened with a lock.
  • The installation of plastic structures is identical to that of laminate. However, due to the properties of plastic, which is lighter, there should be much more clutch units. An important condition on which this introduction depends is the fact of the load on the front door - it often opens and closes at various temperature conditions. This means that the material will be subject to endurance testing. Therefore, it is recommended to fix the plastic every 10-15 cm.

Upon completion of the main work, it's time to move on to connecting various lighting fixtures. At this stage, the door and the box can be released from the film captivity, because. It is done.

As you can see for yourself, installing slopes on the front door is not a difficult job. It is enough to decide on the option: imagine what you would like to see in the end and get to work, carefully considering all the nuances. And our article-guide will only benefit you.

With carelessly made slopes, even the most expensive and chic will look unattractive. entrance doors. Why do we need slopes for entrance doors? First of all, they are used as a beautiful frame, a means of complementing and highlighting the main element - that is, the door itself. In order for you to be able to decide what material to make slopes from, it is necessary, first of all, to pay attention to the design of the door structure itself, its style and color. After all, it is important that the slopes fit not only the design of the door, but also the overall design of the room.

We also note that the described elements perform not only aesthetic functions - they are also an insulating layer, because they close the joints between the structure and the walls.

Basic materials for the manufacture of slopes

To create slopes, you can use the most various materials, although, as an option, you can bring the already existing slopes into a “divine form”.

Option one. Plaster

If the door structure is strong and reliable, but does not look very presentable, reinforce the corners and level the slopes using plaster. Tellingly, this is often done not only by staircase but also in the hallway.

Note! The plastered slopes will look pretty neat - if you wish, you can additionally paint them in the color of the room or door trim.

Option two. Drywall

It is advisable to use this material if your slopes turned out to be wide due to the rather large thickness of the walls. Thanks to the use of drywall, your walls will become warmer, and all existing joints will be securely closed. In addition, the slopes, again, will look very neat.

If you want, you can subsequently paint the drywall or, alternatively, paste over with wallpaper. One of the main advantages of the material is that its installation does not require laborious work to level the surface.

Option three. natural wood

If the wood is suitable for door trim, then you can use it for slopes. It is no secret that wood has always enjoyed considerable popularity and, apparently, will never go out of fashion. The material fits perfectly into almost any interior design, and if necessary, you can easily change the tint of the material using folk / modern means.

In addition, wood can serve you for many years, while retaining all its decorative and operational properties. Although, in a pinch, you can always paint it to match the color of the hallway.

Option four. Laminated lining

Such lining, made on the basis of chipboard, can become great alternative natural wood.

Due to the fact that this material is produced in the most different colors and can imitate the texture of various tree species, you can always choose the most suitable option under the decoration of the hallway. However, it is highly undesirable to use lining when finishing external slopes, since it will simply quickly become unusable there.

Option five. PVC panels

The next material through which they can get off slopes for entrance doors, are ready-made PVC panels. This material is made in a variety of colors, and the dimensions of the panels can also be different. The manufacture and sale of this kind of panels are carried out by specialized companies, where specialists work who are also engaged in their (panels) installation.

This finish of the slopes looks attractive and respectable. The service life of PVC panels is quite long, but it is still desirable to mount them from the side of the hallway, and on the reverse side - options No1 or No2 (they are described above).

Note! If you are completely confident in yourself, you can finish the slopes with finished elements with your own hands.

Although it is worth noting that there is another option for using polymeric materials for slopes - in this case we are talking about plastic lining. It also comes in a variety of colors, so you can easily choose the most suitable option for decorating the hallway.

Option six. Chipboard panels

Yes, they are also widely used in the design of slopes. But, as a rule, only for thick walls. Although in fairness we note that this option in last years not very popular due to the appearance of a huge number of more modern materials capable of replacing chipboard elements that are so difficult to install.

In any case, if you have a panel lying around suitable sizes, you can easily arrange door slopes from the inside with it.

Note! There are other materials used in the design of slopes (for example, laminate, installation instructions for which will be given at the end of the article), but only the most common options were considered above.

What is required for the design of slopes on their own?

Before proceeding directly to work, you must prepare everything necessary materials and equipment. So, if we are talking about plaster, then you should prepare:

  • finishing putty;
  • sandpaper (large and medium);
  • primer;
  • sickle tape, self-tapping screws and a mounting knife (in case drywall sheets are used for finishing);
  • the plaster itself;
  • iron perforated corner (it will be required to align the corners);
  • level;
  • spatulas of different sizes;
  • plumb;
  • rule (it is important that it be shortened);
  • electric drill with a special nozzle-mixer;
  • container of suitable size for mixing.

If panel materials are used for finishing, then the list of everything you need will look a little different:

  • the panels themselves of the material of your choice, additional elements required for their installation;
  • a hammer;
  • platbands, decorative corners;
  • timber 2x3 or 1.5x3 centimeters (in case slopes for entrance doors will be finished with clapboard);
  • screwdriver;
  • dowels;
  • electric jigsaw (as an option - you can use a simple hacksaw);
  • perforator (in case of walls made of concrete);
  • measurement tools;
  • self-tapping screws with which the panels will be attached.

When all the required equipment and materials are ready, you can proceed to preparatory work and directly finishing. Let's consider in more detail each of the possible options.

How to properly trim slopes for entrance doors - detailed step-by-step instructions

First, let's get acquainted with some features of the finishing process.

  • Most of the materials described above are installed using the same technology.
  • Some technologies are quite simple, and therefore the work can be done independently.
  • The rest, on the contrary, can only be used if you have certain skills in working with materials and equipment.

In any case, the finishing work itself should begin only after the installation of the door structure and the sealing of all joints between it and the wall. We also add that the previous coating should be removed from the slopes in advance, as well as peeling areas should be repaired. After carrying out all these activities, you can proceed directly to the finish using one of the technologies presented below.

Option one. Plastering door frames

If you decide to use a plaster mixture for finishing, then proceed in accordance with the instructions.

Step one. First, prime the previously cleaned surfaces (if possible, then in two layers, but the second layer should be applied only after the first one has completely dried).

step two. After that, determine how even the slope angles are. In case of deviations from the norm, be sure to take this moment into account when installing the reinforcing corners. With the help of the latter, you can easily align corners that deviate slightly from the vertical.

Step Three. Next, using a level and a plumb line, set the perforated metal corners at the corners. Ideally, they should immediately be attached to the finishing putty (the latter can be purchased already in ready-made). Apply it, using a spatula, to the corners of the slopes - the mixture is necessary not only for fixing the corners, but also for leveling the slopes horizontally / vertically. Remove excess solution that has come through the perforation immediately using the same spatula. When everything is perfectly smooth, you can rest for a while - the putty should dry completely.

Step Four. In the case of uneven slopes, before installing the leveling corners, it is recommended to set the direction from the door jamb by fixing a plasterboard strip about 0.8-1 cm wide along it. To attach this material to the surface, use putty. If the putty you use is gypsum, it will not take very long to dry completely.

Step five. The perforated corner and the edge of the drywall strip are in this case the points that you must connect with putty and level with the plaster mixture.

Step Six. We continue to finish the slopes for the entrance doors. When the elements that correct the walls are dry, spread the putty (according to the manufacturer's instructions) to end up with a paste-like mixture.

step seven. Using a trowel, throw the resulting mixture onto the wall, moving up from the floor. After throwing the right amount (about 100 centimeters high), level the putty using a short rule. As a kind of beacons, a metal corner and a previously fixed plasterboard strip will serve.

Step eight. Throw the mixture on the second section, level it, and then move all the way to the top in the same way.

Step nine. With puttying the upper surface of the opening, certain difficulties may arise. So, for applying putty there, you will have to use a wide spatula, and for leveling - all the same short rule. After that, putty the wall above the opening, then close with a mixture upper part perforated corner.

Step ten. Wait until the puttied slopes are completely dry. The drying time depends on the composition, as well as on the thickness of the leveling layer.

Step Eleven. When the layer dries, check how good the surface is. If there are minor defects, clean or chip them. After that, bring the slopes to the limit evenness, using the finishing putty for this.

Step twelve. At the end when finishing layer dry, cover it with a primer.

The resulting slopes can be wallpapered, painted or, alternatively, finished with decorative plaster.

Video - How to plaster slopes

Option two. We use plasterboard for finishing

This material is simpler and easier to work with than the plaster described above. However, you still have to use the finishing putty - in this case it will serve as an adhesive for GKL sheets; although instead of it, it is better to give preference to special gypsum adhesives, which are designed to work with just this material.

In the case of limited space, drywall sheets are perfect option for finishing slopes. The algorithm of actions in this case should be as follows.

Step one. First of all, separately measure each of the slopes.

step two. Transfer the received numbers to the sheets of material, then, working on the markup, open the elements for subsequent fastening to the walls.

Step Three. Install drywall sheets from the bottom of the opening. First, apply several “hills” of glue on the first sheet, as in the image, then press the element firmly to the desired location and additionally fix it with pre-prepared supports.

Step Four. Similarly, finish the side slopes with drywall parts, not forgetting to check each of them for level. For fixing to the walls, you can use driven dowels, having previously made narrow through holes under them with a perforator.

Step five. Just as in the case of using plaster, close the corners with iron corners, using the same putty for fixing.

Step Six. Lubricate all joints with putty, carefully align and, when it dries, clean it thoroughly so that the finished slopes for entrance doors looked most attractive.

step seven. To obtain a perfectly even surface, apply a millimeter layer of finishing putty mixture. So you will finally mask all the defects and holes for the dowels.

Step eight. When the mixture has completely hardened, you can sand the surfaces with fine sandpaper (if required) and, finally, proceed to decorative design. You can use paint for this, again, decorative plaster or quality wallpaper.

Note! There is another way of fixing drywall - it is advisable in cases where, when leveling slopes, it is necessary to close a considerable thickness of the wall.

  • Attach metal corners to the slope or wooden blocks, thereby forming a crate in order to give the wall the desired direction. The main advantage of this method is that between the elements of the crate it will be possible to additionally lay thermal insulation material.
  • close the crate drywall sheets, using for fixing with self-tapping screws. Everything else is not much different from the technology described above.

Video - Finishing slopes with plasterboard sheets

Option three. We use lining or panels

If you intend to use panels made of rigid materials in your work (this includes many types of lining, MDF, particle boards and so on), you should know that they are all attached using almost the same technology. The advantage of this method is that even the most serious irregularities can be hidden with such panels.

As for the specific algorithm of actions, in this case it will look something like this.

Step one. First, prime the slopes, mark the places where the bars or iron profiles will be attached. The step between them should be approximately 30-40 centimeters (if they are mounted across the slopes). In our example, a lining is used, mounted parallel to the box. If a transverse arrangement is required, fasten the crate along the jamb. If the surface is wide enough, you can use not 2, but 3-4 strips at once.

step two. The image shows another option - with the installation of lining parallel to the door leaf.

Step Three. You can lay heat-insulating material (polystyrene, mineral wool, etc.) between the lathing slats.

Step Four. Install the panels of the selected material on top of the finished batten.

Step five. For installation of laminated / plastic lining, use the metal fasteners shown in the image.

Step Six. To fasten large panels, use self-tapping screws, sinking the latter by 0.15-0.2 centimeters. To close up the formed holes, you can use putty.

step seven. At the end, install decorative corners. They must match the color of the cladding. Glue corners on horizontal as well as outer vertical corners; finally, at the joints of the finishing material and the door frame itself.

Rules for creating vinyl slopes

Vinyl panels are rightfully considered one of the most modern materials that can be used for finishing slopes. They are sold in almost all specialized companies involved in the production and installation of this material. In the case of a non-standard form of slopes, the panels can be made to order, having previously measured the dimensions.

Finishing can imitate various natural materials, so in any case you will choose the most suitable option for yourself, regardless of the design of the door and the hallway itself.

Note! The main advantage of such panels is that they are quickly installed, and there is little debris left after completion of work. Yes, and this kind of finish looks extremely attractive, neat and stylish.

This material is fastened with a universal adhesive that can reliably connect materials of different properties (for example, brick and lining, concrete and wood, plaster and vinyl). In a word, everything that can be used in the course of finishing and construction works. Still, as an option, slopes for entrance doors can be finished with vinyl using polyurethane foam.

The adhesive should be applied to the inner surface of each panel, and then pressed against the slopes. In this case, no holes need to be drilled in the walls or cladding, which can also be attributed to the undeniable advantages of this technology.

Using laminate is a worthy alternative

Laminate is widely used as flooring, it is easy to work with and comes in a variety of colors. Who does not know, laminate is an MDF panel covered with a special decorative layer. Why is this material so popular? This is because it has many important advantages.

  1. It is inexpensive and can be used for different surfaces, including for slopes.
  2. Some of its varieties are moisture resistant.
  3. The material looks attractive, and it goes well with other finishing materials.
  4. Laminate has excellent wear resistance. It is not erased for a long time, in addition, it can withstand not very strong blows.
  5. Finally, the material is produced different types, textures and colors. Therefore, you will definitely choose the most suitable option for yourself.

Note! The service life of slopes can reach 10 or even 15 years, which, you see, is not so short.

Sheathing slopes with laminate can be done by one of several possible ways. Let's get acquainted in more detail with each of them.

  1. For glue. In this case, liquid nails or similar formulations may be used. However, the surfaces must first be leveled (using plaster or plasterboard sheets).
  2. With the help of a framework. The most time-consuming method, which, nevertheless, allows you to get extremely even slopes without resorting to preparatory leveling of the walls. Also, this method makes it possible to lay a layer of thermal insulation material, which will help save heat in the apartment.
  3. On the mounting foam. The simplest technology that does not require preliminary alignment. All defects will be eliminated after the mounting foam swells.

Video - Laminate door slopes

As for the laying process itself, it - regardless of the specific method chosen - should begin with surface preparation. In our example, the laminate will be attached to the adhesive. The algorithm of necessary actions is given below.

Step one. First fill all the gaps and apply a layer of plaster. Do all this on a plaster mesh. Later, when the plaster is completely dry, prime the slopes to provide additional protection.

step two. Here begins the most important stage of work, so approach the matter with the utmost responsibility. You need to mark up and cut the laminate. Start at the top, then move on to the sides. We recommend cutting the material with an electric jigsaw, although in the absence of one, a regular hacksaw may well be suitable.

Step Three. Before gluing, install mounting spacers - a kind of border, thanks to which the material will not move.

Step Four. Take the first lamella, put it on the upper slope, and then open the door - the latter should not catch it. Then apply foam to the inner surface of the laminate, press it against the slope and fix it with masking tape (you can remove the latter only after complete drying). Too much foam should not be applied, because an excessive amount of foam after swelling can lead to displacement of the element.

Step five. Install the sidewalls in the same way, regularly using the building level.

Step Six. Having laid out all the slopes, wait for the mounting foam to dry completely and proceed to the final stage of work. Cut off excess foam, close the openings with plaster. But this is not the end yet - slopes for entrance doors looked really attractive, seal the openings with a corner of a suitable color.

That's all, now you know about the most popular ways to finish the door slope. We hope the article was really useful for you.
Good luck in your work and, according to tradition, warm winters to you!

After installing a new front door, it remains to update them with brand new slopes. They can be included in interior design different ways, drywall, laminate, MDF, PVC sandwich panels are suitable for decoration, as well as non-standard materials(for example, imitation natural stone). In order not to spend money on the services of a specialist, you can do the installation of slopes yourself, following the instructions.

Slope plastering


Slopes are plastered most often together with the entire apartment when the finishing is not completed.

Required tools:

  • Putty knife.
  • Level.
  • Master OK.
  • Rule.
  • The grid is painting.
  • Painter's tape.
  • Painting corners.
  • Construction mixer.

Materials:

  • Plaster (dry mix).
  • Finishing putty.
  • The primer is liquid.
  • Sandpaper.
  • Water based paint.

Do-it-yourself plastering sequence:

  • Clean the surface.

  • Prime.
  • Install and fix beacons with a level.
  • Close the junction of the wall and the slope according to the level with a paint corner.
  • Tape the front door and box with masking tape

  • Attach the mesh.
  • Make a solution.
  • Seal potholes.
  • Apply the solution to the entire surface, stretch along the beacons, then wait for drying and repair the cracks.
  • Prime.
  • Level with finishing putty.
  • Wait for it to dry and sand it down with fine sandpaper.
  • Paint with water emulsion.

Finishing completed.

If we are talking about a private house, it is advisable to treat the cleaned opening with an antifungal primer before work and add a little to the solution itself.

Drywall slopes

Drywall is a popular material for finishing the slopes of the front door with your own hands. It is inexpensive, reliable and easy to install.

Necessary materials:

  • Drywall.
  • Dowel.
  • Self-tapping screws.
  • Profile guides.
  • Glue.

Required tools:

  • Drill.
  • Roulette.
  • Simple pencil.
  • Rag.
  • Level.
  • Putty knife.
  • Construction mixer.
  • A hammer.

The procedure for doing the installation of slopes with your own hands using drywall:

  • Clean the opening from dust, remnants of mounting foam.
  • Drill connectors for dowels at a distance of 20 cm along the perimeter - it is necessary to improve the adhesion of the material to the surface.
  • Using a tape measure, measure the width and height of the door opening and cut out the guides: two side and one top.
  • Stepping back from the door hatch about 1.5 cm, attach a guide to the screws so that its narrow edge is in the inner part of the slope.
  • Measure the size of the strips for slopes and cut from drywall. When cutting, try to ensure that the edge of the drywall does not crumble and is even.
  • Dilute the glue to a state of homogeneous, thick sour cream.
  • On the cut parts of the drywall, apply a sticky mass in heaps.
  • Lubricate the dowels with glue.
  • The drywall sheet is inserted into the guide and pressed.

  • Check the level of the slope, then fix it for 6 hours.
  • Wipe off protruding adhesive with a rag.
  • Periodically tap the surface with a hammer through the trim.

The next day after installation, the slopes can be further processed: putty, paint.

Laminate slopes

Laminate - flooring, often used for slopes of the front door, it does not need to be further processed, it resists mechanical stress. Do-it-yourself decoration has a lot of nuances.

There are two ways to install laminate slopes:

  • Frame installation. With this technology, you can insulate the opening: fill mineral wool or mounting foam. The design flaw is that the slats are placed only in a horizontal position.
  • Glue installation. It requires a flat surface of the opening, or it must correspond to the dimensions of the laminate. The laminate is glued onto the foam (at low pressure).

The first method is preferable for apartments, the second is universal.

Slopes from MDF panels

Most common finish: Affordable, good looking, easy to install.

Necessary materials:

  • MDF panels.
  • Wooden bars, width 3 cm.
  • Dowel.
  • Self-tapping screws.
  • Liquid nails.
  • Platbands.
  • Decorative corner.
  • Guide bars.

Instruments:

  • Perforator.
  • Drill.
  • Scissors, knife.

Installation of MDF door slopes - do-it-yourself installation algorithm:

  • Clear the opening.
  • Drill holes around the perimeter for dowels.
  • After, attach the rails, guides.

  • Measure the dimensions and make templates for the details for the slopes.
  • Cut out details.
  • Install the top part on the screws. Check that there are no gaps.
  • Install in the guide side parts: inside on nails, outside on self-tapping screws.
  • Paste the outer corners with a flexible decorative corner to hide the screws, bumps.
  • Inside, paste over the corners with a decorative rail and the finish is ready.

After finishing work, you need to install platbands. If there is still wallpapering to be done, they are installed after the repair is completed.

Advantages: finishes look presentable, easy installation.

Slopes from sandwich panels

PVC sandwich panel is two thin sheets of plastic with a layer of insulation (sheet thickness 1 cm).

Materials, tools for installing slopes of PVC sandwich panels on the front door:

  • PVC sandwich panel.
  • Profile (starter, cover).
  • Liquid plastic.
  • Roulette.
  • Self-tapping screws.
  • Screwdriver.
  • Drill.
  • Screwdriver.

Installation of slopes from sandwich panels, or how to do it yourself:

  • Clean the opening from dust and foam residue.
  • Take measurements of the parts of the sandwich panels (length, width): one top, two side. For convenience, you can cut out a cardboard template so that there are no gaps between the parts of the PVC sandwich panels after installation.
  • Cut the starting profile, attach to self-tapping screws (indentation 10 cm) along the edge. You can not use the profile: make an opening in the foam 1 cm deep, insert the edge of the sandwich panels there.
  • Install the top PVC panel.
  • After, cut the starting profile to the width of the slope, install under the ceiling and at the base of the floor. This can be omitted if there is liquid plastic - the cracks can be sealed with it. But do not use sealant - it darkens.
  • Installation of strips of sandwich panels.
  • Close the sections of the sandwich panels with a “cover” profile. Cut and install. An overlap is formed in the corners of the structure.
  • In the place of overlap, cut the profile at an angle of 45 degrees.

Optional space between sandwich PVC panel, the wall opening is filled with mounting foam. This is done after installing the sandwich panels.

More about installing slopes with your own hands after installing the front door, watch the video

Non-standard solutions

In addition to the above standard methods using popular materials, you can use more original variants that will emphasize the interior, decorate the front door and surprise your friends:

  • Artificial stone - non-standard slope finish. The main advantage is resistance to mechanical stress (if this is not a plaster model, it is fragile). Not cheap option, requires the participation of a specialist.

  • Tile. A type such as clinker (imitation of brick or stone) is suitable.
  • Plastic panels are an affordable but unreliable finish.
  • Decorative plaster - in terms of aesthetics, endurance, it has no equal. But you will need to work hard to find a good specialist in this field, because this work requires a creative approach and professionalism.

Materials can be combined if their properties are similar (sandwich panel details + stone, laminate + tiles and others).

No matter how chic the door you set for yourself, and without a decent frame, it will look, to put it mildly, unpresentable. Finishing the slopes of the front door is no less important than its installation. But often a person has no idea how to finish the slopes of the front door. Let's talk about how to improve the doorway, discuss the pros and cons of the most popular materials.

Often, it is the slopes that are responsible for the presentable appearance of the doorway.

Before you decorate the doorway, let's figure out what the openings of the entrance doors are in general.

  1. The classic regular rectangle is the standard, most common option. No matter how strange it may sound, but deciding how to finish the doorway of the front door with classic shapes is the most difficult thing. You can decorate with anything, but the problem lies in the large selection of materials, which can be difficult to decide on. The main plus is that the finish doorways do it yourself rectangular shape won't cause much trouble.
  2. The arch looks more impressive, but the finish door slopes after installing an arched entrance door, it is more technologically difficult. Plus, not all materials will fit. Except for the branded overlays that come with the door, then only plaster, drywall and elastic polyurethane slopes remain.

Arched openings look more impressive.

If the arched design of doorways haunts you, it is not necessary to equip a real arch: it is much easier to install in the lintel area (upper crossbar) decorative overlay in the form of an arch. This can be done both from the inside and outside, the door itself and the slopes will be rectangular.

A decorative overlay will help to design the doors in the form of an arch.

How and with what you can finish the slopes of the main door of your home

If you are faced with the task of how to finish the slopes of the front door, with step by step instructions you can see in and on the video in this article, and we will try to analyze to the smallest detail all the pros and cons, which are often forgotten to be mentioned in brochures.

Option number 1. Good old plaster

Finishing doorways with cement plaster is deservedly considered the patriarch of the direction. This finish of the door slopes appeared along with the doors themselves.

A well-plastered and finished slope will last for more than a dozen years, it is not afraid of any temperature changes, or humidity, or cold. The plaster will fill all voids and irregularities. To spoil such a slope, you need to beat on it with a hammer. If you are not going to influence your doors so radically, then you can be calm about the rest. To freshen up the surroundings, the plastered slope can be repainted, wallpapered or lined with a fashionable now reflective film with a 3D effect: a smooth and durable surface will withstand everything.

But plaster also has a downside. Of all the finishing methods, plastering slopes is the most time-consuming and dirty process.

Plastering the slopes of the entrance doors is not an easy task.

Of course, if you install the beacons correctly, buy good plaster mixtures and quality tool, things will go a lot faster. Although believe me, if you have never plastered doorways with your own hands, this kind of design is not for you. In addition, plaster is, in fact, a stone, only artificial, and you should not expect any serious insulation from such a finish.

There is one more professional nuance. Even on a well-leveled slope, you can only paste wallpaper, and then after two layers of primer. For high-quality painting, one plaster is not enough: the surface will still have to be additionally puttied and sanded, and puttying and grinding will take no less time, effort and money than plaster.

plastered doorways look simple but elegant.

By the way, if you plan to trim the slope with natural or artificial stone, then the plaster will be the best and most reliable base, you do not need to putty it.

Option number 2. Drywall slopes

The next most reliable is the finishing of the doorway of the front door with drywall sheets. This cladding is also called dry plaster.

Drywall attracts with speed and relative ease of installation, plus, if necessary, door jambs can be closed almost completely. If you conditionally break down all the work, then in short, finishing the front door opening with sheets of moisture-resistant drywall consists of 5 stages:

  1. According to the rules, before finishing the front door opening, the surface must be cleaned of debris and covered with soil. But if the foundation is strong, for example, Brick wall, then it is enough to brush off the dust and walk with a solution of copper sulfate so that the fungus does not start.
  2. Next, we install a frame of metal profiles. There are wall and ceiling profiles, so for slopes it is better to take ceiling (UD / CD). If a large space is covered, then a solid frame is mounted, and when there is not enough space, only extreme vertical guides are placed.

  1. GKL is better to take wall (12.5 mm), and the sheets must be moisture resistant. If an arch is formed, then there is an arched drywall (7.5 mm) for it. Sheets are fastened to the frame with self-tapping screws, and glued to the wall tile adhesive or similar building mix.
  2. When the structure is assembled, it must be puttied. Remember - nothing is glued to the "bare" sheets, it is not painted or attached.
  3. The last step is the decor of the doorway. It all depends on taste, skill and financial capabilities. The easiest way is to paste over the slopes with wallpaper. They don't need to be carefully sanded. Next comes the painting, but before it you have to sand the slope well. Tiles or stone are more expensive, but glued quickly and easily.

A hollow plasterboard slope has another indisputable advantage: it can be filled with insulation, thereby increasing heat and sound insulation. In this case, it is better to take polystyrene as a heater. There is an option to blow the mounting foam inside, but you need to act carefully: when it expands, it can squeeze out the sheet. It is advisable not to use mineral or any other wool for warming the passages of the entrance doors: it will become damp from condensate and become useless.

Many people reproach drywall for allegedly easily breaking through, but believe me, if you mount a good frame with a gap between the profiles of no more than 200 mm, and when mounting on glue you do not regret the glue, then you can not worry about the strength of the slope.

Option number 3. MDF

Finishing the jambs of the front door with MDF boards is currently considered perhaps the most common. It's pretty tough and at the same time beautiful material, such panels behave well at temperature extremes and in conditions of high humidity.

When choosing MDF panels, there is a small nuance: you can take any sheets to finish the front door from the inside, but under the outer slopes, especially if the doors go straight to the street, you should buy only moisture resistant ones (their back has a greenish tint), otherwise after a year all beauty will bubble.

In this case, we are only interested in laminated panels, it makes no sense to take ordinary ones and then paint them separately. The range also includes panels covered with natural wood veneer. The price for them is about half as high as for laminated ones, but such slopes are practically indistinguishable from expensive wood.

A backlit slope made of veneered MDF is not only beautiful, but also convenient.

As for self-assembly, it is not a problem to buy and install dobors, platbands, mounting angles and other things. Essentially, you are dealing with a constructor. First, a frame of wooden bars is constructed along the perimeter of the opening, and panels are already attached to it.

From a relatively expensive tool, you will need a miter saw or at least a jigsaw, as well as a drill and a screwdriver. A hammer, tape measure, etc. are usually in the arsenal of any home craftsman.

The downside of MDF slopes is only the price of the material itself. More expensive than such a cladding is only natural wood of elite species, by the way, it is mounted in the same way, but it’s better not to take it on yourself: the risk of spoiling is too great.

To equip a door slope from MDF is not as difficult as it seems.

Option number 4. Clapboard

The price of a good wooden lining is approximately equal to the cost of MDF, but in this case you get slopes made of natural wood. This design of the doorway looks pretty solid, but there are nuances.

Any lining is mounted on a wooden crate, which means that you must have enough space for such a crate. Accordingly, it is problematic to make small slopes from the lining.

Natural wood is a good material, but rather capricious. In extreme conditions of entrance doors, wood must be covered with antiseptics, fire retardants and other protective compounds.

Previously, the lining was completely varnished, now design experts do not recommend varnish. The fact is that most people associate varnished lining with balconies and garages, and the front door is still the face of the home. It is best to buy an oil-wax impregnation and apply it. The result pleases: quickly, beautifully and inexpensively.

Option number 5. PVC

Slopes from PVC finishing panels can be mounted within 1 day, plus the price of this material is affordable for almost everyone, but decorating a doorway with plastic has a number of negative points.

Plastic PVC slopes are mounted easily and quickly.

You can break through a hollow thin panel by simply leaning on it. As practice has shown, even the highest quality plastic panels on a good crate in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe entrance doors they are kept for no more than two to three years.

Under the plastic you need a wooden or metal crate. Theoretically, such a panel can be glued to the plastered slope with liquid nails, but if you have a good plastered slope, then why do you need plastic.

In addition, according to fire regulations, it is extremely undesirable to mount plastic in the entrance area. In the event of a fire, it will actively melt and emit suffocating acrid smoke, thereby blocking the exit.

Although, on the other hand, as a temporary solution to the problem, plastic fits perfectly. And when you have enough funds, you can quickly dismantle it and install solid slopes from high-quality MDF on the same crate.

PVC panels have quite wide range of decor.

Option number 6. Decorative polyurethane lining

If you dream of seeing your doors decorated with luxurious moldings, we recommend that you pay attention to decorative polyurethane linings. Visually, such a finish cannot be distinguished from good stucco, and the performance of such slopes is an order of magnitude higher. The only problem is that the price for such decorations is quite serious, plus you can’t glue an overlay on a curved base. In other words, you will first need to level the slope with plaster or drywall, and then glue polyurethane beauty on it.

If the slopes are decorated with luxurious stucco, this speaks of good taste and the status of the owner.

A few words about the decorative finishing of door slopes

Finishing decorative finish is applied only on a solid prepared base, respectively, we can only choose between plaster and drywall.

  1. Most often, people choose simple staining. The quality of modern paints is such that they can retain their original appearance for quite a long time and under any weather conditions, plus, if you get tired of the color, you can always repaint.
  2. The next in the ranking of finishing door slopes is decorative tiles. Tiles for entrance doors are not suitable, so it is better to give preference to clinker tiles. If funds allow, then it is possible to line the slopes with artificial stone, by and large this is the same tile, only made from stone dust and polymers.
  3. The top three leaders are natural stone. Pleasure is far from cheap, in addition, it is better not to undertake it with your own hands and without preparation. A natural stone- heavy and difficult to process material.

Qualitative fake diamond visually does not differ from natural.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we would like to note that it is better for homemade ones to dwell on materials designed for crates. These are MDF, wood and PVC. If you are confident in yourself, then you can swing at drywall. But we recommend leaving the plastering of slopes to professionals.

MDF door slopes are one of the most affordable for self-arrangement.

Professional finishing of the slopes of the front door should be carried out by qualified craftsmen. At Yuda, you will order the services of such specialists, as well as find out the current prices for repair and construction work. The performers registered on the site perform high-quality finishing of slopes.

Door trim services

High-quality finishing of the slopes of the front door, which you order on YouDo, is carried out at the time you specified. Masters will carry out the work quickly and accurately. Specialists use different kinds materials, including:

  • decorative rock
  • laminated panels
  • drywall

Services for finishing the slopes of the front door include preparatory rough work, as well as connecting switches after installing a decorative coating. Discuss with the contractor the need to purchase Supplies. Specialists registered in Yuda will assist in the selection of elements for decoration.

Features of the work of masters

Finishing the slopes of the front door is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the selected material. Professionals work with both expensive and budget options decor. Order their services if you need to finish the slopes using:

  • wallpaper
  • paints
  • putties

Masters also mount plastic slopes. If necessary, specialists attach cable television wires around the perimeter or hide them along with electrical wiring. Rough finish includes crack removal cement mortar surface leveling. Specialists carry out the insulation of portals and the device of hydroprotection.

Yudu performers achieve an absolutely even and neat decorative coating. Finishing the slopes of the entrance doors lasts a long time.

Prices for professional services

The prices for the services of specialists registered in Yuda are low. In the shortest possible time you will find a suitable artist. The cost of work depends on:

  • type of selected material
  • task difficulty
  • urgent need to complete work

Also on youdo.com you will order other repair and construction services. Masters inexpensively install entrance doors, lay laminate and carry out redevelopment of premises.