How to insulate the walls on the loggia with your own hands. Do-it-yourself loggia insulation: step-by-step photo instructions with recommendations. Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia - the initial stage

07.05.2020

Until recently, the balconies of city apartments served as a kind of storerooms - people kept conservation and various things there. What is there, on the balconies they carried out any unnecessary rubbish that it was a pity to throw away. Today, however, these spaces are increasingly being used as additional living space. And in order to realize such an idea, you need to take care of the insulation of the balcony.

If you insulate the balcony, you will not only be able to expand the living space of the apartment relatively cheaply, but also significantly reduce the heat loss of housing. The fact is that it is through the balconies that most of the heat leaves. But in order for everything to be done efficiently, you need to know where to start. With a well-designed scheme, turn cold balcony albeit in a small, but almost full-fledged room, it will be much easier.

So, first sketch out a rough work plan - it will include:

Important information! The balcony can be insulated both from the inside and outside. But in view of the fact that you will do the work on your own, that is, without the help of specialists, it is better to resort to internal insulation.

Stage number 1. Choosing a heater

There are a lot of heat-insulating materials on the modern construction market, but it is more suitable for a balcony:

As for foam plastic and XPS, the laying of these materials is carried out using almost the same technology (the only exception is the form of adhesion - it is better for XPS due to the use of grooves).

It is better not to use mineral wool for a balcony - the installation procedure will be more laborious, and the condensate that inevitably forms on the balcony is undesirable for this material. Expanded clay, for obvious reasons, can only be used for floor insulation (insulation technology will be described in detail below).

And if we add to all of the above the fact that the balcony should in no case be overloaded, then it becomes obvious: the most suitable option- this is a foam plastic 4-5 cm thick, which is cheaper than polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

Stage number 2. We carry out glazing

If your balcony is already glazed, you can skip this step. The glazing procedure itself largely depends on the parapet installed on the balcony. If we are talking about an iron crate, then you must build it up using foam blocks or ceramic bricks. It is important that the wall thickness as a result exceeds the mark of 10 cm. And if you have a reinforced concrete parapet, you can immediately start installing windows.

Today, many (especially admirers of environmentally friendly building materials) prefer double-glazed windows with wooden frames. It is worth remembering that such structures must be treated with an antiseptic and regularly painted. You can learn about the installation of double-glazed windows with wooden frames from the video below.

Video - How to install a wooden window with double-glazed windows

However, most consumers still buy PVC windows. When buying, choose a special plastic profile, characterized by increased rigidity and strength characteristics. In addition, the profile must have good thermal insulation performance.

Also, plastic windows should have:

5-chamber profile;
2-chamber (if you live in the middle lane) or 3-chamber (if in a more severe climate) double-glazed window;
reinforced reinforcement.

After installing the PVC construction ordered according to the dimensions of the balcony (specialists should do the work), you can proceed directly to the insulation.

Stage number 3. We warm the floor

Consider how to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands using foam (although the technology described below is also suitable for polystyrene foam).

Table. Floor insulation on the balcony

Steps, no.	Short description	Illustration
Step #1	Prepare your work surfaces first mounting foam all detected gaps in the concrete, as well as at the joints between the slabs and the wall.
Step #2	Mark the floor for the subsequent construction of the crate. At the same time, it is important that the pitch of the crate exceeds the width of the insulation sheets by about 10 mm.
Step #3	According to the previously made markings, lay the slats (the approximate size of the bars is 4x4 cm, however, it is necessary that their width matches the thickness of the insulating material). The first and last rails should recede from the walls by 50-100 mm. Connect the rails with self-tapping screws.
Step #4	Lay foam sheets between the lathing laths, gluing them to the floor with liquid nails or special glue. Blow out all the voids formed as a result of this with mounting foam.
Step #5	Lay on top of the insulation Lay a vapor barrier layer on top of the insulation (required to increase thermal insulation and prevent condensation). If you use ordinary PET film, then in no case lay it on the "cold" side of the insulator. If you are laying foil insulation, then do it with foil to the foam.
Step #6	Fasten sheets of plywood or chipboard from above, and the thickness floor covering must be at least 20 mm. Attach the sheets to the rails with self-tapping screws.
Step #7	It remains only to lay the finish coating, for which you can use carpet or linoleum.

Important information! There is another way to insulate the floor on the balcony with foam: foam sheets are attached to the leveled and cleaned surface, and a thin screed is poured on top from a previously prepared dry mix solution. Ceramic tiles can be used as a finishing coating here.

Alternative option. We use expanded clay

As noted earlier, the floor on the balcony can also be insulated with expanded clay. This material is also inexpensive, and its installation is not difficult. Let's get acquainted with the algorithm of actions.

Step #1. First, lay a waterproofing film on the floor with a 10 cm exit to the walls.

Step #2. Arrange beacons around the perimeter in increments of about 25 cm, while being careful not to lean them too much against the walls.

Step #3. Fill the floor with a layer of expanded clay 15 cm thick, evenly distribute the material over the surface.

Step number 4. Moisten expanded clay with cement "milk" (this is an aqueous solution of cement).

Step number 5. Pour expanded clay with a layer of concrete or self-leveling mixture. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the structure of the insulator.

Step number 6. Wait for the screed to dry completely. After that, you can start laying the finish coat.

Stage number 4. We insulate the walls

The technology here is almost the same as for floor insulation. Do the following.

Step #1. Mark the future location of the rails on the walls (as for the floor).

Step #2. Attach the slats according to the given markup.

Step #3. Apply mounting foam to the surface with wave-like movements. At the same stage, holes for dowels should be drilled.

Step #4. Attach the styrofoam sheets using plastic mushroom dowels.

Step #5. Blow out all the cracks formed with mounting foam, then glue with mounting tape.

Step #6. Lay a waterproofing layer on top - for example, penofol, which at the same time will also serve as thermal insulation.

Step #7. Seal the seams at the joints with foil tape.

Step number 8. Mount the counter-lattice on top of the foam and install finishing material.

Stage number 5. We insulate the ceiling

This procedure is also performed using a similar technology, but there are still some differences.

First, mark up where the hangers for attaching the rails will be installed.
Install the suspensions themselves, necessary for fixing the guides (use a galvanized profile or timber as the latter).
Cut small holes in the insulator (styrofoam or XPS) in appropriate places for hangers.
Next, fix the insulation boards using the same mounting foam.

If the insulation weighs too much, then you can use dowels for fastening. Fill the cracks with foam. Otherwise, there are no significant differences.

Finishing Features

In most cases, balconies are lined with clapboard or profile from the inside, but drywall is also used, followed by wallpapering. PVC panels are also used for cladding. Concerning exterior finish, then it is better to entrust it to professionals, especially if your apartment is located higher than on the ground floor.

Important information! It is forbidden to go there central heating, so if additional heating is required, then you can lay the film "warm floor" under the linoleum.

Even on the balcony you can install a socket to which an electric heater will be connected. The described room is small, so heating will take a minimum of time. We also note that a double-glazed window weighs quite a lot, so the rest of the materials (including the insulator itself) should be with a minimum weight. By the way, this is another reason why it is better to give preference to XPS or foam boards.

Video - Instructions for warming the balcony

Now you know about the strong and weaknesses materials suitable for insulating the balcony, as well as the technologies for laying foam and expanded clay. So it's time to get straight to work! Moreover, there is nothing complicated here if you are armed with step-by-step instructions and all necessary materials. If you do everything right, then turn the balcony into a full-fledged living room with all the ensuing benefits.

The part of the apartment that needs primary and thorough insulation more than others is, of course, a balcony or loggia. Because by no means all owners use these premises exclusively for a warehouse or pantry. Modern views are such that balconies and loggias are increasingly being transformed into personal account, kitchens or simply in rest rooms. This is what makes the owners perform competent, and therefore high-quality insulation of these premises.

With this publication, we set ourselves the goal of conveying to the reader information on how to properly insulate the loggia from the inside, what is needed to insulate the loggia from the inside, etc. This will provide significant savings, since you will not have to hire expensive specialists, and learning something new is always useful and exciting. The basis for success here is to avoid the most common mistakes, as well as to clearly follow the sequence of actions.

Let's start, perhaps, with a few points that are considered the most common mistakes of inexperienced builders when they decide to insulate the balcony with their own hands.

Rush. Quite often, insulation work is carried out at an accelerated pace or hastily. Usually, in these cases, all work is limited to installing a new warm double-glazed window, covering all visible cracks with putty and plugging in an oil cooler. And meanwhile, the precious heat from the apartment both came out and comes out. In this way, it will not work to insulate the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia. To warm the loggia, you need to make a little more effort.
Use of low quality materials. In order to avoid this common mistake, the question of how best to insulate a balcony from the inside must be taken responsibly and approached in advance. Since balconies have a fairly large area, improperly selected insulation for a balcony or loggia will cause a fairly serious heat leakage from the apartment.

To ensure maximum insulation of the balcony, and eventually the entire apartment, from the cold, a clear sequence of actions must be followed in the performance of work. This will achieve high-quality insulation, save the expended effort, money and time. So, next we consider the question of how k is produced interior decoration do-it-yourself balconies step-by-step instruction to this process.

Installation of warm windows

The beginning of insulation work in any room, including on the balcony, is the installation of new double-glazed windows. The presence of old wooden frames- this is one of the main causes of volatilization a large number useful heat from the apartment. Unlike other rooms, the installation of a metal-plastic double-glazed window requires one nuance to be taken into account: the reliability of the parapet.

Especially on old-type balconies, the parapets are quite flimsy and their strength may not be enough to install heavy enough metal-plastic double-glazed windows. Under such conditions, it is necessary to take care of additional reinforcement of the parapet. The most suitable method for this is reinforcement with thick metal rods, followed by pouring them cement mortar. Along with insulation work on other surfaces of the balcony, parapet insulation is no less important and must be approached very responsibly.

How and how to insulate a balcony

Probably, the most important moment when insulating work on the balcony is the choice of the thickness of the material with which the internal surfaces are insulated. Most often, the internal insulation of a balcony involves sheathing with insulating materials not only the walls, but also the ceiling and floor. Therefore, the better to insulate the loggia from the inside is the most important issue. And to solve the question of how and how to insulate the balcony inside with your own hands, it is necessary first of all.

The main criterion for choosing such materials is their thermal conductivity.

This indicator is inversely proportional to the heat it retains, or rather, its amount. It is for this reason that the question arises more often than others: how to insulate the balcony from the inside? Mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam?

The most common insulation for these purposes is extruded polystyrene foam.. In combination with lightness and thinness, it is still perfectly cut and mounted, and very inexpensive. It has good resistance to corrosion and moisture. However, it is very, very expensive. It can be replaced if necessary budget option- polystyrene. The latter has similar properties, but is not as durable.

Crack sealing

Any fairly old or not even very old balcony has gaps. That is why, even by installing the most modern and warm double-glazed windows, you will notice that the heat still disappears somewhere. Sealing gaps in insulated surfaces is best done with polyurethane mastics and sealants. They are the most plastic, resistant to natural influences such as wind or frost, and seal gaps longer.

Such sealants and mastics are sold most often in small cans, and the gaps are sealed with a plastic nozzle or a special gun, which often comes with cans. As soon as the sealant or mastic is completely dry, you can begin the next step - to fix the insulation material.

We warm the balcony floor and walls

The insulation has been selected and purchased, and now the only thing left is how to sheathe the surfaces with it. There are 2 enough simple options how to insulate the loggia from the inside with insulating material, or rather, how to fix this very material: glue, which does not necessarily contain toluene (since the latter can corrode the insulation boards), and dowels. If it is decided to fix the plates with dowels, then their location should be such that about 10 dowels are located on each square meter of the plate.

Stages of insulation of balcony walls

Insulation of the balcony walls begins with the installation of a vapor barrier film and gluing its joints with construction tape;
A crate is mounted from bars or a profile. For these purposes, both wood and metal are suitable;
Insulation is mounted: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool or styrofoam. The seams between the plates are blown with mounting foam. When the loggia is insulated from the inside, this stage is the main one;
The crate is sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall, plywood, chipboard or other sheet materials;
Finishing the resulting surface is in progress. For these purposes, among other things, we also need a finishing material, with which the walls on the balcony are finished.

I would like to note that the use of vapor barrier tape will help to avoid, for example, mold or fungus.

And on the insulated floor, it is imperative to lay a layer of waterproofing. Moisture-resistant drywall will go on the walls and ceiling as a sheathing. How to insulate the balcony from the inside with your own hands, see the video step by step below:

Video

Stages of insulation of the balcony floor

Poured concrete screed, the thickness of which varies between 3-5 centimeters. If desired, you can mount a warm floor system in the screed;
A waterproofing film is mounted with the subsequent processing of its joints with a sealant or moisture-resistant mastic;
Thermal insulation is laid in the form, for example, foam;
Finishing the floor covering by laying ceramic tiles, laminate or linoleum.

The arrangement and insulation of the balcony floor is possible without the use of a screed. In this case, longitudinal logs made of wood are laid on the waterproofing layer. Attached directly to concrete base balcony. Next, the floor is insulated with a gasket between the lags of basalt wool, expanded clay, foam, etc. All this is covered with boards or some kind of sheet material ( chipboard boards, plywood, etc.). Insulation work is completed by laying the finish coating.

Balcony ceiling insulation

When deciding how to insulate a balcony inside, one more thing should be taken into account. If there is no neighbor’s balcony above your balcony, that is, the ceiling of your balcony is not the neighbor’s floor, then a slightly special approach is needed to warm it. Here you will need roofing material high quality with sound insulation applied on the inside in the form of a film or spraying.

The following layers are also laid:

Waterproofing - PVC film or polyester;
Windproof membrane that allows steam from the insulation to pass through, but does not allow drops that penetrate inside with the wind;
Anti-condensation layer that does not allow water vapor to condense and flow onto the insulation material;
Wooden frame holding the roof;
Insulation, which, in fact, is thermal insulation;
Vapor barrier of the insulation itself, which helps to preserve its properties. It prevents the penetration of water vapor into it.

Additional insulation

In order to ensure comfort, warmth and coziness on the balcony, even in severe frosts, a well-thought-out additional balcony insulation scheme may be required. Part of this can be: air conditioning, radiator or underfloor heating system. In fact, the insulation of the balcony from the inside is limited only by the imagination of the owner of the apartment and his financial capabilities.

If the balcony is connected to the apartment, then it is quite possible to do without an additional insulation scheme. In this case, even an apartment air conditioner can easily cope with the role of an additional heater. However, there is one "but". It will be warm on the balcony, but the floor, as it was cold, will remain so, even if there is a carpet.

To avoid such an incident, we still recommend equipping a warm floor system. Believe me, it will be very appropriate. The installation of such a system is a rather complicated step-by-step action, therefore, we will not consider it within the framework of this article.

The internal insulation of the balcony is, of course, good, however, in order to achieve the maximum effect, care must be taken to insulate the balcony from the outside. And although it is forbidden to independently insulate the balcony from the outside, we decided to briefly describe this process using the example of how professional companies do it on their own.

External insulation

Pipes with a square section are welded to the upper edge of the parapet, on which the window sill will be fixed and insulation material will be mounted from the outside of the balcony.
The insulation is laid in two layers, and with some shift, so that the top layer overlaps the joints of the first. This is done so that cold air through the joints of the insulation does not penetrate into the balcony. Warming the walls of the loggia from the outside helps to ensure that there is no condensation in the apartment, or rather, on the loggia.
The fastening of the foam boards (namely, this material is used for insulation when the loggia is insulated from the outside) is made with self-tapping fungi directly to the surface of the parapet and tubes welded on the upper end of the parapet.
Sheathing of the balcony from the outside is carried out either with a metal profiled sheet or with plastic. The first is more reliable and durable, the second looks aesthetically better.

During the insulation of the balcony from the outside, potholes and splinters may appear on the parapet, from its outer side. It is not particularly worth worrying about because of this, since these defects will be blocked from the outside with a heater, and inside they will be sealed with mounting foam.

Once again I would like to repeat that for questions about how to insulate a balcony from the outside, it is better to contact professional construction organizations. Working outside the apartment at a height (from the side of the facade) is very dangerous, and it is better to trust specialists in this. Be smart and don't take risks!

In this article, we tried to show in as much detail as possible the procedure for warming the balcony. Of course, it cannot be argued that the tips we have given will suit absolutely every owner of a balcony. After all, everyone has their own approach to the question of which materials for insulating a balcony from the inside are better and which are worse. The choice always remains with the respected reader.

The value of additional square meters in a city apartment is difficult to overestimate. A loggia can be a cold storage island or a warm living room. But, in order to fully use it, you need to take care of ensuring an acceptable temperature in this room.

It has become the main task for those who want to expand the useful area of the apartment.

The degree of insulation depends on the purpose of the room, as a living room or storage space.

And if the question of whether it is necessary to insulate the loggia has long been resolved, then there is still no consensus about the place of insulation.

Three directions for warming the loggia

outside loggia insulation is the preferred option. In this case, the freezing point shifts to the outside, i.e. towards the insulation, mounted outside the loggia. This will allow not only to insulate the surface of the wall, but also to preserve the load-bearing properties of the material from which it is built. In addition, the interior space of the loggia is saved.
The only drawback of insulation from the street is the cost of high-altitude work (industrial mountaineering). Rigid is used for insulation on the outside. thermal insulation material(expanded polystyrene, polystyrene), which is covered with a polymer mesh and protected with a strong cement mortar and / or decorative plaster;

Note. In some cases, the decision on whether it is possible to insulate the loggia from the outside is determined by the City Council. For example, if the house is of architectural value, it is forbidden to perform external work that changes the appearance of the building.

double-sided insulation and finishing of the loggia. It involves the installation of heat-insulating material outside and inside the loggia. Such a decision is inexpedient in principle, because from the point of view of thermal efficiency, it does not matter from which side the work is carried out.

insulation of the loggia from the inside. Internal insulation is the most popular option, because. It is possible to do the work yourself. However, in this case, the useful space of the loggia is reduced. Nevertheless, it is on this option that we dwell in more detail.

Do-it-yourself warming of loggias - step by step instructions with a photo

A simple technology for beginners with no experience in construction.

Step 1 - Determining the need for insulation

Depending on the future purpose of the room, a decision is made on whether it is necessary to insulate the loggia from the inside or outside, what type of insulation and what thickness will be used.

By definition, a loggia is a room in a building with one open side. This specificity makes it possible for owners to carry out thermal insulation at lower financial costs compared to thermal insulation of a balcony.

The fact is that it will be necessary to insulate only one side - the parapet of the loggia. As for the other sides, if they border on the heated premises of the apartment, there is no need to perform insulation.

Step 2 - The degree of insulation of the loggia

It is a mistake to assume that glazing a loggia with double-glazed windows is enough reliable way save heat in the room. In order to ensure the desired temperature in the room with minimal costs, you need to take care of the thermal insulation of all surfaces: walls, floor, ceiling. It is better to do the work at the same time, but you can do it in parts, the main thing is to follow the sequence.

Step 3 - Choosing a heater for the loggia

At first glance, the selection is not difficult. However, the variety of heat-insulating materials makes you wonder what is the best way to insulate the loggia from the inside.

penofol(40-50 rubles / sq.m.). Belongs to the group of semi-rigid heaters. It is distinguished by the presence of two layers: polyethylene foam and foil, which will act as a reflector (reflects up to 97% of thermal energy). Warming the loggia with penofol is more justified than warming the balcony with it, but, despite this, using only penofol is a rather rare occurrence;

Styrofoam(2560-3200 rubles / cubic meter). Optimal price/quality ratio. It has excellent thermal insulation properties, is non-hygroscopic, does not require the use of films, and is easy to install. The market offers foam plastic with different densities (15, 25, 35 kg/m3) and different sheet thicknesses - 20-100 mm, which makes it possible to vary the thickness;

polystyrene foam(extruded polystyrene or foam plastic) (3500-5000 rubles / cubic meter). A newer generation of foams. While maintaining the advantages of polystyrene, it is distinguished by a high density (40, 100, 150 kg / m3) and a tongue-and-groove fastening system, which makes it possible to avoid cold bridges. Insulation of the loggia with penoplex is one of the most effective ways of thermal insulation, but widespread use holds back its cost;
Note. Insulation of the loggia with polystyrene foam is advisable if you need to minimize the loss of space in the process of thermal insulation.

cotton wool. Representative of soft heaters. Mineral (400-500 rubles / pack = 5.76 sq.m.) or basalt wool (650-720 rubles / pack = 5.76 sq.m.) are good because they make it possible to warm the surface with irregularities or crevices. In the line of heaters of this type there are materials with different densities and prices. However, the general disadvantage of mineral wool is its susceptibility to moisture. This requires the use of waterproofing films;

polyurethane foam. A heat-insulating material that is sprayed onto the surface under pressure, allowing you to fill the smallest gaps. Work on the insulation of the loggia is carried out quickly, but expensive;

expanded clay. Loose heater. Differs in significant weight and can only be used for floor insulation;

aerated concrete. Allows you to level the walls and insulate them, but the usable area is reduced.

With the exception of expanded clay and aerated concrete, each of the heaters can be used to insulate the loggia.

Factors affecting the choice of insulation:

the technical condition of the surfaces to be insulated: their configuration, the height of the floor / the lowering of the ceiling, the condition of the ceiling;

the number of surfaces to be insulated. Often the wall adjacent to the room is not insulated;

climate. In regions with high humidity it is undesirable to use soft heaters;

environmental friendliness. Styrofoam is considered the least environmentally friendly material, basalt wool is the most;

ease of installation. Rigid heaters are easier to install. When using them, you can do without the formation of a crate for laying soft wool. It also eliminates the need for films. best qualities from the point of view of installation, polystyrene foam has, thanks to the groove-comb system;

type of finishing coating;

project cost: turnkey loggia insulation or do-it-yourself.

Step 4 - Prepare materials and tools

For work, you need to prepare: heat-insulating material, mounting foam, primer, wooden beam (50x50, for the floor) and slats (50x30, for mounting the crate under soft insulation), vapor and waterproofing film (for soft insulation), hardware, metallized adhesive tape, Decoration Materials.

From the tool: puncher, drill, level, hammer, tape measure, foam gun, vacuum cleaner, stapler, pliers, pencil.

Note. wooden beam can be replaced with a drywall profile. The dimensions of the timber are determined by the thickness of the insulation.

Step 5 - Glazing the loggia

Glazing and insulation of loggias are two interdependent actions. Installing plastic windows you need to give preference to a 4-chamber profile and a 2-chamber double-glazed window. During installation, it is necessary to monitor the tightness of the fit of all structures. Outside, the installation of an outflow is mandatory, which avoids water leakage. A window sill is installed inside, taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Installing PVC windows makes it possible to increase the temperature on the loggia by 2-3 degrees compared to the temperature outside the window.

If it is not possible to replace old windows, they can be sealed. Insulation of loggia windows is best done using Swedish technology. It makes it possible to increase the thermal insulation properties of the window without changing their functional characteristics.

Step 6 - Surface Preparation

Whatever type of insulation is carried out on the loggia, due to its small area, it must be freed from everything extraneous. It is for this reason that it is advisable to carry out the insulation of the entire loggia at the same time.

Then the actions necessary for further work are performed:

removal of protruding parts that can be dismantled;

chasing and drilling walls. If necessary, electrification of the loggia;

processing of elements that cannot be dismantled. The metal is cleaned and coated with a primer;

primer treatment of all surfaces of the loggia. This will prevent the development of the fungus;

cleaning.

Step 7 - Warming the floor on the loggia

It is advisable to start work on insulation from the floor.

Regardless of the material, it is performed on logs. An exception is the laying of insulation with subsequent screed under the tile or when installing the underfloor heating system. The work is carried out in several stages:

penofol installation. This is not necessary, but the masters advise laying penofol with the reflective side up. Due to the reflectivity of penofol, almost all the heat that comes from the wall adjacent to the room or from the heating source remains in the room;

lag installation. Before installation, the beam must be cut to size and treated with a primer. The longitudinal beam is laid at a distance of 50-70 mm from the walls, and the transverse one with a step equal to the width of the insulation (for foam plastic 500 mm, for cotton wool and expanded clay - 600 mm.). The bars are attached to the floor with dowels. When installing the log, they monitor the correctness of their fastening, in the future they will serve as a guide for arranging the floor and installing a fine floor covering.
Note. Mounting the log against the wall increases the risk of wood deformation if it gets wet.

insulation installation. Rigid insulation is laid between the lags. When insulating the loggia with polystyrene foam or polystyrene, it is not recommended to use thick material. Masters are advised to purchase thinner sheets and stack them with an offset. This minimizes the surface of cold bridges. Cotton wool is also placed between the joists so that the material fits freely, without knocking down. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the cotton wool to prevent it from getting wet.

seam sealing. If the rigid insulation is laid with gaps, they must be blown out with mounting foam, which is a good insulator.

subfloor arrangement. It is not recommended to lay laminate or lay linoleum until the end of work. If the floor is finished with tiles, it is mounted immediately and protected (covered) with cardboard.

Note. The use of a warm floor system will ensure the heating of the loggia, because it is forbidden to take out central heating radiators, and the use of a heater does not give a long-term effect.

Step 8 - Insulation of the ceiling on the loggia

This stage can be excluded if the floor of the neighbors from above is insulated. If not, then most simple solution there will be insulation of the loggia with polyurethane foam. It adheres well to any surface, and the work can be done in a day.

Often, the ceiling is insulated on the loggia with hard heaters, less often with cotton wool. The work order may vary.

Option 1 - frame method of thermal insulation of the ceiling on the loggia

installation of penofol. From the course of physics it is known that warm air rises. And in order not to heat the floor to the neighbors from above, it is advisable to install penofol on the ceiling;

frame arrangement. For work, wooden slats are used, with a thickness equal to the thickness of the insulation;

the insulation is placed in the cells of the frame. If cotton wool is used, a vapor barrier film is additionally mounted;

ceiling finishing.

Option 2 - "wet" way to insulate the ceiling on the loggia

If the base of the ceiling is even, you can glue hard insulation to it. Additional fixation will be provided by the use of dowels with a large cap. The joints of the insulation sheets are foamed with foam. For an additional effect, penofol is installed.

Option 3 - insulation of the false ceiling on the loggia

Lay insulation (usually wool) on the finishing material of the ceiling. Suitable for false ceiling or finishing the ceiling with laminate or plastic panels.

Step 9 - Wall insulation on the loggia

Warming the walls of the loggia is the easiest step. However, it has an important feature, namely: the walls of the loggia are insulated in different ways.

the wall adjacent to the room is insulated in one layer;

the outer wall is insulated in two layers or a thicker thermal insulation material is used. Moreover, it fits in pieces, and always with an offset.

Like work on the ceiling, there are two ways of insulation: “wet” and frame:

"wet"- suitable for rigid insulation and the only possible for aerated concrete. Often in this way the loggia is insulated with penoplex.

frame– Mandatory for soft materials. Without a frame device, it is impossible to insulate the loggia with cotton wool. The frame can be made of wood or metal profile. The technology of laying cotton wool on a wall does not differ from its installation on a ceiling or floor. The protection of cotton wool is provided by the installation of the film.

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high tech, computer technology, programming.

I have already talked many times about the internal insulation of balconies in city apartments and private houses, but I did not dwell much on highlighting the question of how best to insulate the loggia from the inside. But right choice thermal insulation material - the key to the effectiveness of ongoing activities.

And now is the time to fill this gap. The instructions below will tell you how to choose suitable material for warming.

Requirements for heaters

Before telling you how to insulate the loggia inside with my own hands, I want to give a few words to the criteria by which I personally choose thermal insulation materials for such work.

So, what is worth paying attention to:

Heat transfer coefficient. The lower this parameter is, the better. That is, for the thermal insulation of the room (whether it be a separate loggia or combined with the main room), you will have to use a smaller layer of material. So, more usable area of the room will be saved.
Ease of installation. The more complicated the procedure for installing the heat-insulating material you have chosen, the longer and more laborious the repair process will be, especially on your own. However, I have already written a lot about how to properly insulate the loggia from the inside. If you need, you can find the relevant material or ask a question in the comments.
Strength. It is better to choose a heater that tolerates external mechanical stress (both static and dynamic). In this case, the subsequent decorative finishing of the room is facilitated.
Antiseptic. Internal insulation shifts the dew point inside the heat-insulating cake. In addition, air vapors, which are formed as a result of human activity, can penetrate through the walls. Therefore, I recommend paying attention to materials that are not subject to biocorrosion - mold, fungus and other microorganisms, rodents and insects do not appear in them.
Affordable price. Naturally, this factor is also very important, although I would not put it at the forefront. Below I will tell you about insulating materials that have an optimal ratio of cost and performance. And then you yourself choose what material is better to perform insulation.

Characteristics of individual types of insulation

So, let's start the story. Let's start with the most common and very inexpensive heat insulator - polystyrene foam or, as it is popularly called, polystyrene.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of 98% air, which is enclosed in closed polystyrene shells. It turns out some kind of solid foam in sheets, which, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia, prevents unproductive heat loss.

Specifications

I will briefly describe the main technical characteristics of the material:

Thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity coefficient of expanded polystyrene is in the range of 0.028-0.034 W / (m * K), that is, lower than that of mineral wool. The specific value depends on how dense the foam you get for work.

I'll warn you right now. Do not confuse foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Although they are relatives, their technical characteristics differ significantly. Therefore, we will talk about EPS separately in the next section.

Vapor permeability and water absorption. Conventional building foam does not allow air to penetrate through the insulation layer.

Therefore, the insulation of the loggia with foam plastic from the inside requires additional measures to be taken to ventilate the room in order to remove excess moisture from it. Otherwise, the microclimate in the room will be far from comfortable.

The situation is different with water absorption. When in contact with liquid, the foam absorbs approximately 4% of its volume. However, unlike mineral wool, its heat-retaining properties do not deteriorate much from this, therefore it is not necessary to carefully waterproof the insulation layer.

Strength. For insulation, building foams are used that meet the requirements of DIN 7726 and are classified as "rigid". That is, when a load is applied, the surface of the heat insulator reacts elastically. However, when a dynamic or strong static force is applied, the integrity of the insulation may be compromised.

In other words, if you are using Styrofoam for internal insulation loggias, you immediately need to decide what to finish inside after warming. You need to choose this way decorative finishes, which would simultaneously protect the insulating layer from mechanical damage.

The strength of the foam is largely dependent on its density. But with an increase in density, heat-preserving properties deteriorate. The optimal density of foam for internal insulation is 25. You can also buy 35, but this, in my opinion, is already an unjustified waste of money.

Chemical resistance. Classically, expanded polystyrene perfectly tolerates the effects of household chemicals, which include soap, soda, and mineral fertilizers. It is chemically neutral in contact with bituminous resins, cement and lime mortars, asphalts.

However, I myself saw how the foam “melts” when some varnishes, drying oils and other similar substances get on it. In addition, petroleum products with various alcohols are also dangerous.

All this once again suggests that if you are going to use this insulation for interior work, you should take care of its thorough protection.

Sound absorption. If you want the insulation layer to act as a sound insulator at the same time, then you will be disappointed with the foam. It is able to protect a little only from impact noise, and even then, if you lay 10-15 centimeters of insulation.

Other noises that are transmitted through the air, the foam does not jam. The fact is that the cells with air inside the material are rigidly fixed and completely isolated from the outside world. Therefore, sound waves do not absorb.

Antiseptic and environmentally friendly. In 2004, research by scientists from the United States finally proved that biological life on the surface of expanded polystyrene is impossible. Therefore, there is no need to be afraid of the appearance of mold and fungus.

As for security issues environment(for some this is very important), then everything is fine here too, since in the production of insulation they refused to use freon, which is harmful to the ozone layer of the planet. In addition, the foam itself serves for a long time without losing its performance properties. And regardless of the number of cycles of freezing and thawing.

However, the insulation in question is subject to oxidation. Moreover, the lower the density of the material, the faster this process. Especially if the material is exposed to direct sunlight. And during oxidation, it releases many harmful substances, which include:

benzene;
toluene;
formaldehydes;
methyl alcohol;
acetophenone and so on.

But during the construction of houses, wood is also treated with various chemicals, which also harm human health. So wood cannot be considered a completely environmentally friendly building material. However, I am only stating the facts, and you will have to make the final choice.

Fire safety. According to the current Russian standards (GOST under the number 30224-94), foam plastics belong to the third and fourth flammability classes. In other words, they are very dangerous when viewed from this point of view.

When choosing a heater, pay attention to what standards the expanded polystyrene is certified. In Europe, the flammability class is determined by three factors (biological, chemical and complex). So, experts from the EU believe that the most combustible material is wood, but they do not take into account the danger of combustion products formed during the ignition of the foam.

Therefore, when purchasing material, pay attention to certificates issued based on the results of comprehensive studies. And buy polystyrene foam, which contains flame retardants (it is marked with the letter "C"). This does not mean that such material will burn worse. It just takes a longer exposure to a more intense flame to ignite it.

In any case, I can say that despite various fire retardants and other additives to the foam, it continues to be a rather combustible material. Therefore, if you are going to arrange a workshop on the loggia, it is better to choose other materials for insulation. Moreover, flame retardants disappear over time.

Lifetime. Subject to the foam installation technology (that is, laying it under plaster or other decorative material), it will retain its performance properties for at least 30 years. However, this is if you do not make mistakes, which I want to talk about below.

First of all, this is the wrong choice of a warming elk. Some, for example, believe that if you put foam board 30 cm thick, then the loggia will be insulated as efficiently as possible. This is not so, because a thick insulation will warp and crack due to temperature fluctuations.

As a rule, 5 cm thick slabs or two such slabs stacked on top of each other are used to insulate a dwelling. Among other things, this method of installation allows you to reduce the amount of smoke emitted during a fire and reduce the risk of poisoning people in the room.

Well, now I kind of summarize everything that has been said and give some advice to those who have already decided to buy polystyrene foam to insulate their loggia:

For internal insulation, I advise you to purchase polystyrene foam with the PSB-S marking with a density of 35-40. In any case, do not take insulation with a density of less than 25. It is only suitable for packaging household appliances but not for construction.
Sometimes manufacturers label the foam with the number "40", which does not indicate its density. Therefore, pay attention not only to the numbers in the name, but also to the technical characteristics, which, according to the law, must be placed on the package or provided separately at the request of the buyer.
Buy foam produced by extrusion (should be listed in the accompanying documentation). This is the only way to give the material a density higher than 20 kg per cubic meter.
To check the quality of the material on the spot, break off a piece from it. If you see balls at the break point, which are also easily separated, then you have packaging material in front of you. Styrofoam for insulation has cells in the form of polyhedrons, along which a fracture occurs.
If we talk about specific manufacturers, then I recommend paying attention to the materials of TechnoNikol, BASF, Styrochem or Polimeri Europa. These materials are of excellent quality and are quite affordable.

Penoplex

I recently used extruded polystyrene foam to insulate a balcony. And he chose the material of a domestic manufacturer for work - foam plastic. That's why I'm going to talk about it in this section.

Specifications

The first extruded polystyrene foam was produced in the United States of America about half a century ago. essence technological process is as follows: expanded polystyrene granules are placed in a chamber where they are melted under high temperature. Then this mass is foamed with the help of chemicals and squeezed out through rectangular nozzles onto the conveyor, where it cools.

For foaming, so-called foams are used, that is, substances that, when heated, emit gases: nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

After hardening, the extruded polystyrene tape is cut into slabs and packed in polyethylene for transportation to construction sites.

As for penoplex, it consists of the following components:

polystyrene;
ground perlite;
sodium bicarbonate;
lemon acid;
barium stearate;
tetrabromoparaxylene.

The use of foams in the production of foam gives the latter a porous structure, like foam. But unlike the latter, the cells of this material are tightly interconnected into a homogeneous structure, so the air is more evenly distributed inside the material.

The size of the air cells in the insulation is from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. They are isolated from each other, so they have good thermal resistance and low water absorption. In addition, this whole structure has greater strength than classic expanded polystyrene (styrofoam).

The exact technical characteristics of the penoplex are shown in the illustration below:

As you can see, the market building materials there are several varieties of this extruded polystyrene foam, which differ in the characteristics and dimensions of the plates. Accordingly, they must be used for insulation of various structures.

If you are not too versed in the above figures, I will decipher some of the parameters:

Coefficient of thermal conductivity. For penoplex, this figure is approximately 0.03 W / (m * K). This is one of the lowest coefficients of all existing heaters. At the same time, what attracts me personally: this indicator does not change depending on humidity and temperature. That is, when using penoplex, it is not necessary to protect it with additional waterproofing membranes.
Hygroscopicity. When in contact with water or moist air, the foam board absorbs no more than 0.6% of its own volume. In this case, humidification continues only during the first 10 days after installation, and then stops. Only the upper layers of the insulation are impregnated, which positively affects the integrity of the material.
Vapor permeability. The material does not pass moisture vapor dissolved in the air through itself. Therefore, the surfaces finished with foam are not covered with vapor barrier films. On the other hand, you will have to take measures to ventilate the room to remove excess water vapor.
Compressive strength. This parameter is at a height, which is achieved due to the homogeneous structure of the penoplex. Therefore, it can be used to insulate floors on the loggia (laying the insulation under the cement screed). If a significant force is applied to the insulation, a dent with a depth of no more than 1 mm may form on the surface.
Environmental friendliness. Although the manufacturer claims that the material is completely safe for the environment and humans, it nevertheless emits during operation a small amount of chemical compounds that may be hazardous to health.
Lifetime. Experiments carried out at the Penoplex plant show that the material is able to withstand more than 50 consecutive freeze and thaw cycles. Therefore, when used outdoors, it will retain its technical characteristics for at least half a century. And inside the loggia and even more.

To all of the above, I can also add that penoplex tolerates the effects of aggressive chemicals and solvents well. However, it is destroyed upon contact with petroleum products, benzene, formaldehyde, acetone, oil and some other materials. This must be taken into account when choosing a method of decorative finishing.

Marking methods

There are several types of extruded polystyrene foam Penoplex on sale. To make it easier for you to choose the right variety, I will give the following table.

Marking	Scope of application
Penoplex 31	Used for insulation of industrial tanks with various liquids and technical pipelines.
Penoplex 31C	A material that, like the previous one, is not very durable, therefore it can only be used for internal insulation. Unlike the previous one, it has the ability to self-extinguish when ignited.
Penoplex 35	Material of medium strength and density, which is ideal for internal insulation of the loggia. Moreover, it can be installed not only on walls and ceilings, but also on the floor under a cement screed.
Penoplex 45	Very durable and moisture resistant insulation. It is used for external thermal insulation of surfaces that experience a large static and dynamic load. On the loggia, it can be used to warm the floor.
Penoplex 45C	Self-extinguishing type of insulation described in the previous row of the table. It is mainly used for thermal insulation of industrial and commercial buildings.

However, in addition to digital marking, penoplex has its own names. Detailed description I will list each brand in the following table.

Name	Density, kg/cu.m.	Purpose
Wall	25-32	It is used for internal and external insulation of enclosing walls, internal partitions and basement floors above ground level.
Foundation	29-33	It is used for thermal insulation of structures buried in the ground. This type of foam is very durable and able to withstand the load exerted by the soil after backfilling the pit.
Roof	28-33	It is used for insulation of attic rooms. The insulation has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, but is fragile, so it is better not to use it in places where it will be subjected to a constant load.
Comfort	25-35	Material ideal for internal insulation of balconies, loggias and other premises. It differs in that it can be used in rooms with high humidity.

If you ask my opinion, then I would advise using Penoplex Comfort slabs 5 cm thick to insulate the loggia, laying them in one layer under the screed or in a pre-arranged crate.

Basalt wool

Another fairly common insulation for loggias and balconies is mineral wool. There are several varieties of this material, but I prefer the variety that is made from a volcanic mineral - basalt. It is basalt wool that is the most eco-friendly material with excellent technical specifications and performance properties.

This insulation was invented in Hawaii, when local residents, after one of the volcanic eruptions, discovered strong and thin fibers in the vicinity.

Now basalt wool is produced industrially. To do this, gabbro-basalt is collected and melted into melting furnace at a temperature of just over 1500 degrees Celsius. Then the mixture enters the drum, where it is blown by a jet of air and rotates. The result is fibers with a thickness of 7 microns and a length of about 5 cm.

After that, a binder is added to the mass of fibers, after which the mixture is heated to 300 degrees Celsius and pressed into mats, which are used for insulation.

Specifications

I will tell you the most important thing about this heater:

Thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, wool, although it does not overtake penoplex, is not an outsider. The thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.032 to 0.048 W/(K*m).

So that you understand what in question, compare, for example, a 10-cm layer of basalt wool with a density of 100 kg per cubic meter with other building materials. To ensure the same level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to build a wall of ceramic bricks with a thickness of 1 m 20 cm. Silicate brick will need even more - 2 meters. As for the wooden wall, its thickness should be at least 25 cm.

Water absorption. Basalt wool has hydrophobic properties. That is, water does not penetrate inside the fibers and does not linger in the insulation, changing its technical characteristics.

This, by the way, is the fundamental difference between basalt fiber and glass wool or slag wool. The last two varieties after getting wet (from contact with water or moisture vapor) increase their thermal conductivity, that is, they retain heat indoors worse.

So if you are going to insulate the loggia from the inside, you need to take exactly basalt wool, and not from glass fibers. Do not confuse. Its water absorption is no more than 2% of its own volume.

Vapor permeability. The described insulation, unlike the previous ones, does not prevent air infiltration through the building envelope. Moisture, penetrating through the decorative material, is removed outside and does not condense in the insulation layer.

The vapor permeability of the material is about 0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa). That is, on the loggia, where you use such a heater, a comfortable microclimate for living will independently form, if you look at it from the point of view of air humidity.

Fire safety. Due to the fact that basalt, being a volcanic rock, has a very high melting point, the heat-insulating material itself belongs to the class of completely non-combustible materials.

Moreover, it is able to stop the further spread of the flame. The thermal insulation layer loses its integrity at a temperature of at least 1100 degrees Celsius. Therefore, by the way, it is used for insulation. engineering systems and pipelines, the surface of which is very hot during operation.

The material fully complies with the requirements of GOST under the number 30244 and SNiP under the number 21-01-97. It has no restrictions when warming residential premises.

Soundproof properties. Unlike expanded polystyrenes, basalt wool perfectly absorbs sound waves. This is due to the fact that the air contained inside the insulation is not closed inside the cells, and the fibers themselves are arranged randomly.

Moreover, cotton wool not only cuts off noise from the street, but also reduces the reverberation time. That is, not only the loggia itself is soundproofed, but also the rooms located behind it.

Strength. As in all other cases, this parameter depends on the density of the basalt wool. Although it is less than that of polystyrenes, it is still sufficient for construction works, since some basalt fibers are arranged vertically when forming mats.

As a result, when the insulation layer is deformed by 10%, it shows a compressive strength of 5 to 80 kilopascals. And this indicator does not decrease depending on the operating time.

Nevertheless, it is impossible to install basalt mats under the floor screed. For insulation, I recommend equipping the crate, on which decorative material is then mounted. Although there are some varieties (for example, Dan Floor from Danova), which are specifically designed for insulating floors under a cement screed.

Biological and chemical activity. The material does not react with chemicals and does not cause corrosion of metal parts. In addition, mold and fungus do not start inside the insulation layer and on its surface, insects and rodents do not live.

So you can insulate the loggia in the country. Unlike foam, which mice love to chew on.

Environmental Safety. The insulation is completely safe for the environment and humans, as it is made from a natural mineral. However, the fibers are glued together with phenol, which can be hazardous to health.

But I hasten to assure the skeptics. All hazardous substances are neutralized when heated at the stage of production of basalt wool. But even at the stage of manufacturing the material, the emission is no more than 0.05 mg per cubic meter per hour.

In addition, during operation, mineral fibers do not irritate the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs of a person.

Material disadvantages

So that you do not get the impression that basalt wool is just a gift of fate for warming the loggia, I will list the main disadvantages of the material:

high cost of insulation;
the presence of seams in the insulation layer, which make it leaky;
the possibility of the formation of basalt dust, which causes inconvenience to installers in the process of working with it;
high coefficient of vapor permeability, which in some cases is simply not needed.

Summary

Now you have all the necessary information to choose the right insulation for the thermal insulation of the loggia. Those who are interested in how to lay the selected insulation with their own hands can watch the video in this article.

In order to avoid disputes about the need to obtain permission to carry out the insulation of balconies or loggias, it is worthwhile to carefully understand this issue. The usual insulation of the walls of the loggia from the inside without the installation of external glazing systems can be carried out without issuing permits.

If it is planned to perform window fillings on the balcony, these works are equated with redevelopment and require the receipt of established permits.

Permission for redevelopment of loggias with insulation

Order project documentation and order certificates from supervisory organizations

Given that non-glazed structures do not retain heat, it is possible to insulate floors, walls and ceilings, but this is an ineffective exercise. Heat is reliably stored in the premises of the loggias, where external glazing is installed, such works, according to the legislation of the Russian Federation, are redevelopment and require a permit for their implementation. Cases where a permit cannot be issued are defined by law:

The building belongs to the monuments of architectural heritage.
The structures of a residential building will not withstand the additional load (the building is dilapidated or intended for demolition).
The loggia insulation plan provides for the use of obsolete building materials with a high degree of ignition.
If the redevelopment plan provides for the installation of heating and floor heating systems with their connection to general house communications.

In other cases, you will have to go through the procedure for obtaining permission, before starting construction and installation work on the insulation and glazing of the loggia.

To obtain permission to carry out work on the redevelopment of the loggia, you will need to order project documentation from an organization that has a license to design residential buildings, as well as obtain the necessary information from a number of organizations.

The finished project is coordinated with the Department of Architecture and interested organizations (SES, fire safety department and others).

Performance of work on the insulation of loggias without issuing the established permits may entail:

bringing the premises to their original form at their own expense.
penalties in the amount of 2 to 2.5 thousand rubles.

Warming technology

The sequence of warming the loggia is determined by the technology of work. How to start warming a loggia or balcony? First you need to perform a number of preparatory steps.

First of all, the premises of the loggia are freed from the things stored there: they clean old furniture, boxes and planters for flowers. The clotheslines are removed, the holders for clotheslines fixed on the walls or ceiling are dismantled.

If the floors of the loggia are covered, it must be disassembled, and then the slab should be inspected. If necessary, the surface of the slab base is repaired, especially if concrete chips are found and bare reinforcement comes to the surface (iron bar without concrete coating).

The front fence of the loggia is dismantled, observing safety regulations.

Before dismantling structures, it is necessary to protect home territory cords, hang warning signs to warn of dangerous situations.

The loggia insulation procedure includes the following technological processes: glazing; floor, ceiling, wall insulation; reliable waterproofing device; external insulation; finishing. More details about each stage of work and the intricacies of the technological process below.

Glazing

Single-row glazing will protect from bad weather, but not from frost

Providing for the glazing of the loggia, it is worth noting that all efforts to insulate the structures will be reduced to zero if low-quality double-glazed windows are selected. Guaranteed protection from the weather will be completely provided by window fillings with single-row glazing, but such windows are not able to protect against frost.

When choosing a material for window fillings, it is worth abandoning wooden windows, because on the loggia there is a danger of condensation, which can adversely affect the condition of the wooden frames. Aluminum and plastic windows can be installed on the loggia without fear of increasing the maximum permissible load on the stove. Aluminum window structures are lighter than PVC structures, do not undergo corrosive processes, are suitable for finishing loggias in any style.

Installation of window blocks should be carried out after strengthening the parapet, which can be made of monolithic concrete or foam concrete blocks (ceramic bricks). The thickness of the parapet is provided in the amount of at least 10 cm.

When installing window fillings, an additional profile is often used, which is installed around the perimeter of the window.

Insulation of the loggia from the inside

The process of warming the balcony can be continued after the installation of double-glazed windows. The walls of the loggia can be conditionally divided into "cold" and "warm", bordering on heated rooms. Insulation usually covers only the "cold" surfaces of structures, so as not to reduce free space loggias. Details of the insulation of the loggia, see this video:

The choice of insulation among the abundance of modern brands is not particularly difficult, but when purchasing certain type material, the climatic conditions of the region are necessarily taken into account.

Styrofoam

The most popular are the following heaters:

In addition to the main insulation, a number of materials will be required to help carry out work in the loggia: mounting foam, mounting foam cleaner, foil tape, antiseptic primer, galvanized metal profile, fixing hardware, drywall sheets.

Foam wall insulation technology

Consider the technology of laying insulation on the walls of the loggia using the example of installing foam.

First you need to treat the walls of the loggia with a primer, such a coating will prevent the spread of fungal infections and mold in the event of adverse conditions ( high humidity, the appearance of condensation). After applying the primer, it is necessary to allow the wall surfaces to dry thoroughly. For more information about foam insulation technology, see this video:

Using a sharp clerical knife, it is convenient to cut the insulation to size. In cold climates, it is worthwhile to provide for the laying of foam in 2 layers with an overlap of adjacent segments of at least 5 cm.

Work should begin with fixing the first layer of insulation with special dowels to the surface of the walls. The second layer can be mounted on top of the first on mounting foam or the same dowels.

Styrofoam sheets are fixed in a similar way.

Insulation of ceiling structures

Insulation of the ceiling of the loggia begins with the fixing of galvanized suspensions and guide profiles. Holes for suspensions are pre-cut in the sheets of insulation.

You can correct these holes with mounting foam. The cut insulation is fixed on the ceiling with mounting foam or dowels with different cores. Plastic dowels are designed to fasten light materials, metal ones are used for heavy plates.

Loggia floor: laying insulation

The floor of the loggia is considered the “coldest” surface and needs to be provided with maximum insulation. It is from the floor that is poorly insulated that the cold spreads throughout the loggia, so it is worth considering laying the insulation in 2 layers. For more information on warming the floor of the loggia, see this video:

After cleaning the slab, assessing its technical condition, a decision is made to perform a leveling screed, which must dry thoroughly before continuing the insulation process.

The floors are treated 2-3 times with a protective solution against the appearance of fungus and mold, after which waterproofing can be arranged.

The next stage is the laying of rails and transverse logs, which are fixed with galvanized self-tapping screws, while it is important to ensure that all logs are of the same thickness.

The best material for floor insulation is mineral wool, the material perfectly fills the crate, reliably isolating the smallest gaps and holes.

At the end of laying the mineral wool, they proceed to the device of the subfloor. What material to choose for the device finishing the floor in the loggia depends on the style of the room and the personal tastes of the owner. For information on how to treat fungus and mold, see this video:

Starting a conversation about external insulation, it is worth warning about the inadmissibility of independent actions at height; professional industrial climbers should be involved in such work. The rest of the work on the insulation and finishing of the loggias can be easily done with your own hands, having some experience in construction work.