Make a sewer in a private house with your own hands. Proper wiring of sewer pipes in a private house. Closed tank: a simple solution, operating features

20.11.2019

The end of the second decade of the 21st century suggests that in a modern private house, including a dacha, a latrine is somewhat more technologically advanced than a modest wooden booth at the end of the site. It is not surprising, therefore, how advanced sewer systems have become today for country houses and materials for them. And all this is quite affordable and feasible for a home master when installing it yourself.

Any system for the removal and disposal of wastewater in a residential building, no matter how small, needs to build a diagram that will show the size of the system on a scale and help in the choice:

type of plumbing and its location, including additional wastewater suppliers, such as, for example, a bathhouse;
internal pipe routing;
exit points sewer system from the building;
passage of the sewer line outside the building;
type of equipment and its location on the site;
necessary to create a system of materials.

The diagram also displays pipe diameters, their connection options and other information that is necessary for assembling the internal and external components of the sewer system.

Types of sewer system

The most popular sewer systems today are based on the use of:

cesspools;
storage tanks;
two-chamber septic tanks;
septic tanks with filtration;
septic tanks with biofilter;
septic tanks with forced air supply.

Did you know?As archaeologists have established, the world's earliest outlines of sewerage systems, which appeared in Mesopotamia, are already almost five thousand years old. However, a sewer system resembling a modern one appeared in Ancient Rome in the 6th century BC.

The centuries-old method of sewage sewerage is simple and cheap. For construction cesspool in the form of a well without a bottom, concrete rings, bricks and similar materials are needed.
Since the bottom of this well consists of bare soil, domestic liquid waste enters through the well onto it, seeps out and begins to be cleaned. The more solid fractions of these wastes are retained in the pit and precipitate. When a lot of them accumulate in the well, cleaning is required.

This system operates reliably and justifies its existence if the volume of drains from the house does not exceed a cubic meter per day. This amount allows the microorganisms in the soil to cope with the processing of organic elements and thereby purify the water entering the soil through the bottom of the well.

When this volume is exceeded, the water no longer has time to be purified and begins to pollute groundwater. It makes sense to build a cesspool if the cottage is visited a small amount people only on weekends. In any case, this primitive type of sewage is becoming less and less popular with suburban homeowners today.

A container for receiving waste waste installed near the house can be plastic, brick, concrete, metal, provided that this container is hermetically sealed.

This is especially true for land plots where the level of groundwater is high. A hermetically sealed tank will protect both the soil and groundwater from pollution. The only inconvenience of this system is the dependence on frequent calls of vacuum trucks, which is why the cost of its operation is quite high.

This device consists of two tanks, the first of which is equipped with a sealed bottom, and the second is not equipped, being covered from below with a layer of sand and gravel mixture.

Did you know?The all-round genius of Leonardo da Vinci even invented the flush toilet in 1516. But even the French king could not bring the revolutionary idea to life, because then there was no water supply and sewerage at all.

Effluent flows into the first tank, where solid organic matter sinks, fatty particles rise up, and partially purified water is located in the middle.

Both volumes are interconnected by a pipe with a slight slope towards the second tank. Through it, the water, which has already become somewhat cleaner, flows into the second reservoir. And there it, passing through the sand-gravel mixture, and also through the soil, is additionally cleaned.
It is clear that in the first compartment, which is a sump, masses of waste gradually accumulate, in order to eliminate which it is necessary to resort to the services of sewers.

But it is recommended to equip the second tank only when there is at least a meter distance from its bottom, filled with a mixture of crushed stone and sand, to groundwater. Moreover, this sand-gravel mixture is required to be changed every five years.

It consists of a tank divided into several sections, connected to each other by slightly inclined pipes. As a rule, such a tank is manufactured at the factory.

The first tank is used for settling liquid waste. From it, partly clarified water flows into another compartment of the tank. And there, anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic elements make the water even cleaner, after which it flows into the third tank.
And from it, through the ground, water reaches filtration fields specially created from a sand-gravel mixture, where it is cleaned up to 80% and discharged into special ditches or containers. This method of treating liquid waste is only feasible where there is a large area of land.

After all, only from the filtration fields to the house or source drinking water the distance should be at least 30 m. Plus, the filtration sites themselves occupy a lot of space, although they are underground. Besides, ground water should in this case rise no higher than 3 m.

This type of treatment device is different in that it can be used on land where the groundwater level is high. It is a tank consisting of four sections connected to each other by pipes with a slight slope.

In the first tank, the effluent settles and flows into another compartment in the form of partially purified water. There, the water is further purified by means of anaerobic microorganisms and, already in a more clarified form, is sent to the third compartment-separator, and from there to the fourth.
And there it is already being processed by aerobic bacteria. They need a constant supply fresh air, coming here with the help of a pipe, which is brought out to a height of half a meter. Thanks to the treatment with these bacteria, the water reaches a purity of up to 95% and is quite suitable for watering plants, washing a car and other household needs.

This method of sewage treatment is most in demand in country houses with people permanently living there, since bacteria need a continuous supply of liquid waste, without which they die. And while bacteria can be easily added to the system through the toilet, it will take about two weeks for them to fully restore their full activity.

This installation with the help of electricity significantly activates the treatment of wastewater. She does this by means of forced atmospheric air injection, for which an electric pump and an air distributor are used.

This type of cleaning device can consist of one tank divided into three compartments, and of three different tanks connected to each other by means of inclined pipes.

Primarily treated effluents from the first compartment are poured into the aerotank, which is the second section. There is aerobic sludge, supplemented by plants and microorganisms. It is they who need a forced supply of fresh air.

After that, the already more purified liquid, together with the sludge, is poured into the third tank, where, after settling, it undergoes better purification, and the sludge that has settled in the sediment is returned to the aerotank with the help of a pump.
Forced air serves as an effective catalyst for the process, as a result of which the water is purified much faster and more efficiently.

And although the installation consumes a little electricity, nevertheless it needs the mains, which is partly its disadvantage. The functioning of this system also requires continuous residence in the house of one of the household members.

How to install a sewer with your own hands

With a high-quality scheme of the future sewer system and with the presence of all necessary materials you can go directly to its phased construction.

There are three stages, which include:

installation of an internal sewer system;
laying pipes outside the home;
construction of treatment facilities.

Video: house sewer

Piping and riser

Indoor wiring includes horizontally placed pipes connecting plumbing to a vertically standing pipe, which is a riser. And it is connected to the highway, which brings sewage to the outside.

Ideally, it is desirable to match the installation of a sewer system with the construction of a house, but it is quite realistic to assemble the wiring located inside in an already built house, especially if it is small.

In doing so, the following requirements must be adhered to:

Insofar as wastewater they are diverted from plumbing fixtures by gravity, the pipes that go from them to the riser must be laid with a certain slope.
Sanitary equipment must be separated from pipelines by water seals in the form of siphons, which are a curved pipe with water constantly in it, which does not allow odors to penetrate from the sewer into the premises.
The pipe connecting the toilet to the riser should not exceed 1 m.
The intra-house sewer system needs ventilation, for which the riser is brought out with a slight elevation above the roof.

Important!The toilet bowl must be connected to the horizontal wiring in its lowest part on the floor.

Pipe laying

If piping is carried out in an already built house, then there are three ways to lay them:

with the help of digging, ditches are made in the walls, into which pipes are hidden;
lay them on the floor;
fastened to the walls with clamps.

The pipeline is assembled, starting from the riser and ending with plumbing. The main thing when distributing horizontal pipes is to establish the required angle of inclination.

The larger the pipe, the smaller the angle should be. For example, with a pipe diameter of 50 mm, one end of its meter-long segment should be 30 mm higher than the second, and with a diameter of 200 mm, this elevation is only 7 mm.

Video: wiring sewer pipes At first glance, it seems that the greater the slope of the pipeline, the better the drains will flow through it. However, in reality, excessive slope causes the water to roll down the pipe too quickly, and the more solid parts of the drains do not keep up with it and linger in the pipeline.

Installation and installation of the riser

With the installation of an intra-house collector in the form of a riser, the installation of an internal sewer system begins. In its lower part, the riser is connected to a pipe that passes through the foundation and leads the drains out, and at the top it is crowned with ventilation towering above the roof.

Important! The best option when there is only one riser for the whole house.

Installation and installation of the riser are made in the following sequence:

On the wall, at the place where the future riser passes, it is necessary to draw its axis with a pencil. If desired, a recess is made in the wall, with a width and depth slightly exceeding the diameter of the riser pipe. For external fastening of the pipe to the wall, clamps and brackets are used. Fasteners should be installed under the sockets connecting the pipes, the distance between the fasteners should not exceed 4 m.
Then it is necessary to carry out a preliminary assembly of the riser and attach it to the wall in order to check whether all dimensions have been correctly observed, taking into account the fittings for connecting the horizontal part of the system. The installation locations of fasteners are immediately determined if external mounting of the riser on the wall is provided. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the pipe cannot be installed close to the wall, the clearance between them must be at least 3 cm.
Having eliminated all errors in the installation of pipes, the riser is assembled with the help of seals and fastened with clamps, if external fastening is provided.
Next, you need to connect the riser to the pipe that leads the drains out. And the upper end of the riser can be connected to a fan pipe that rises above the roof.

Video: tips for installing sewer risers

Used for ventilation of sewerage systems, fan pipes connect the internal system with the external environment, helping to:

remove harmful and foul-smelling gases that are formed in the sewer system into the atmosphere;
maintain the required pressure within the system.

For all their usefulness, fan pipes are not at all obligatory in all housing constructions without exception. In a small one-story country house, where the volume of wastewater is small, it is quite possible to do without this device. But in large houses, two or more floors, with a considerable number of residents, fun devices are certainly necessary.

They work on the principle of suction of atmospheric air into the sewer system when the air inside it is rarefied. Vacuum valves help them in this, which just let in atmospheric air when its pressure drops in the system, but prevent the gases accumulating in the system from escaping to the outside.
Fan pipes with vacuum valves are installed on the roofs of the building, where they usually rise 20 cm above the roof. Sometimes this ventilation is installed in the attic of buildings.

The sewer outlet is a pipe system that is placed under the foundation of the house and serves as a continuation of the riser. It is an intermediate link between the intra-house collector and the outer part of the sewer system.

The most difficult point in its device is the exit to the outside under the foundation or through it for connection with the external pipeline.

The outlet equipment requires pipes of the same diameter as the riser, as well as bends that transfer the vertical pipeline to a horizontal position, in which it is brought out through the foundation.

The external sewerage network starts from the outlet coming out of the foundation and goes to the treatment device, where it delivers liquid effluents from the house.

For the construction of an off-site sewerage site, the following rules should be followed:

the external pipeline should be located at such a depth that it does not freeze in winter;
if it is not possible to dig a deep trench, the pipe must be insulated;
every ten meters on straight sections of the pipeline and on its turns, it is necessary to install inspection wells.

Except for digging a trench to a non-freezing depth, pipe laying does not require much effort:

First, the trench is prepared, consisting in the required depth and inclination towards the cleaning device.
A 10-cm layer of a mixture of sand and clay is poured onto its bottom.
A pipe is placed on top of this layer.
The gap between it and the walls of the trench is also filled with this mixture.
The trench is backfilled with previously excavated soil.
The landscape disturbed by these operations is being restored.

Ancient cesspools without a bottom are now used less and less. Instead, storage and cleaning devices are used. The first of these is a large reservoir, hermetically sealed, as a result of which its contents do not come into contact with the surrounding soil.

Video: choosing a septic tank for a private house

This constituent part suburban sewage is most rationally used in areas with a high level of groundwater, as well as in country houses and cottages, which are visited infrequently and by a small number of people.

If the country house is large, equipped with many types of plumbing and constantly populated by a large number of residents, then a septic tank with soil aftertreatment of wastewater or with forced aeration is necessary.

Device

The accumulative type of sewer system works very simply: liquid sewage enters the tank and accumulates in it, without any contact with the surrounding soil. After the tank is completely filled with sewage, it is necessary to resort to the services of sewers to remove them.

As storage tanks, both large prefabricated plastic tanks and independently made of brick, concrete, concrete rings or iron barrels welded together are used.
Different kinds septic tanks are more complex. They consist of several sections, in the first of which the solid elements of the wastewater precipitate, undergoing anaerobic treatment by microorganisms, and the partially purified water flows into the next section, where it is purified using various filtration methods.

The choice of one or another type of septic tank is determined by the level of groundwater on the site, the size of the site itself, as well as the house, the number of permanent residents in it and the plumbing devices that they use.

Construction

For the construction of a storage tank, you should:

Dig a pit.
Install a concrete base in it.
Build a brick wall around it, providing a hole for the sewer pipe in its upper part. On top of the concrete cover there should be another hole for the sewer hose, which at all other times should be tightly closed.
Instead of bricks, concrete rings or welded metal rings can be used.

Video: construction of a septic tank For construction different types septic tanks use concrete rings, metal containers, eurocubes and other plastic tanks.

They are mounted differently, but their installation is largely similar:

First you need to dig a pit, which should be about half a meter larger in length and width than the container installed in it.
Then the bottom of the pit should be leveled and covered with a 2-centimeter layer of sand.
Concrete and plastic containers require concreting of the base.
After that, you need to install the tank.
The installed tank must be connected to pipes, through one of which sewage flows, and purified water comes out of the other.
Then, if necessary, it is possible to attach elements of additional purification of water with the help of soil.
You should also install hatches.
And finally, you need to fill the container with previously excavated soil.

Alternatives

If someone does not want or is not yet able to install in his country house or in the country the sewer system, he has the opportunity to do without it, using dry closets. They are autonomous devices that do not need to be tied to the sewerage system.

Currently, there are many types of such toilets, but the most popular among them are:

Peat, as it is easy to understand from the name, use special peat with bioactivators to compost waste products. In liquid, special solutions are used that accelerate the processing of waste products.

And electric, the most expensive, separate waste into solid and liquid fractions, the first of which are then dried, and the second are disposed of.

With apparent difficulty this process installing a sewer system in a house with your own hands is quite within the power of a home master. With a properly drawn up scheme of the future system, the availability of materials and a great desire to realize what was planned, success, as practice shows, almost always comes.

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Living in a private house, every owner dreams of creating maximum comfort in it, ensuring a comfortable standard of living. Therefore, it is important to worry in advance about such an important issue as installing a sewer in a private house with your own hands. And below you will learn how to do all the work competently, correctly and not harm the environment.

With the independent construction of the sewer system, you can decently save. But it is important to do all the work correctly, taking into account all the requirements for construction and installation work.

Attention! Your site may require drainage, and you can buy everything you need for it at a discount in the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/. But be sure to indicate that you entered from our Remontik website.

The choice of a sewer system scheme should always be made in strict accordance with the layout of your home.

When planning, we recommend to provide for the most compact placement of rooms for which water will be drained and supplied (bathrooms, shower rooms, bathrooms, laundries and kitchens). But the most the best way consists in such an arrangement in which all plumbing equipment will be tied to one collector, through which sewage will be drained into a septic tank or cesspool.

In the presence of a large country house, which provides for several different rooms with water outlet / supply located in different parts buildings, experts advise giving preference to such a sewerage scheme, in which there will be at least two septic tanks or cesspools. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and the bathrooms, baths and kitchens are on different floors, then you will have to install risers.

Installation of sewerage in a private house. Types of sewerage

All work on the construction of sewerage in a country house or in the country is reduced to the installation of an external and internal sewerage.

The work on internal sewerage should include the installation of a vent pipe, a riser and piping for such premises as a kitchen, shower room, toilet, etc. to the outer or outdoor sewerage everything that is outside the house applies, that is, a system of pipes that go from the house to a deep cleaning station (a rather expensive solution) or to the septic tank itself (with a storage tank or filtration field).

Of course, if you can connect to centralized system drains, then the task will be greatly simplified. However, below we will consider an autonomous system that includes effective cleaning drain in a septic tank, and not such a primitive structure as a cesspool.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

First of all, you need to deal with the internal circuit. Even during the design of the house, care must be taken to ensure that all the premises where sewerage will be carried out are as close as possible to each other, since this approach simplifies the scheme of the internal sewage system. Everyone private house involves the installation of an individual sewerage scheme, which can be very different.

Therefore, you must take into account the fact that pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm must be used in the toilet for draining. For gray drains entering the sewer from the bathroom or kitchen, it is worth using PVC or PP pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. All turns must be done using two plastic elbows that are bent at an angle of 45 degrees, as this will minimize the possibility of blockage in the future (otherwise, it will be quite difficult to eliminate it).

It is cheaper and more reliable to use polypropylene (PP) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes in the sewerage scheme. In addition, it is much easier to arrange an internal sewerage system using such pipes.

First of all, you must decide where the riser or collector pipe will be located, and only then carry out further wiring from it.

But first of all, you should figure out as accurately as possible how to independently develop a sewerage scheme for your home, since in the future you can use it to complete the calculation of materials and plumbing equipment that will be needed to install a sewer system in a private house.

You can make a sewerage scheme on a piece of paper in a box, but it is better to buy several sheets of graph paper for such a task. In addition, you will need a ruler, tape measure and a sharp pencil.

The sewerage scheme for a private house is drawn up in the following sequence:

First of all, you need to draw up a detailed plan of the house on a scale. If you do not know the dimensions, then you will have to use a tape measure and carefully measure everything.

Next, you need to decide on the location of the risers.

Then, on the plan, you need to mark the locations of the plumbing and decide how they will be connected.

Next, mark the pipes that will go from the riser and fittings to plumbing fixtures, and all connecting elements (bends, tees, etc.).

All of the above should be done for all floors of a country house.

Now decide on the size of the riser and the fan pipe.

Add the entire length of the pipes that belong to the internal sewerage.

Another stage is the external sewerage. It is necessary to draw up its scheme: the location of the pipes coming from the septic tank or deep cleaning station to the outlet. At the same time, do not forget all the available SNiPs.

Sewerage installation in a private house: choice of pipes

For the reason that the conditions inside the house, as well as outside it, are significantly different, then the pipes for such sewerage systems must be different. Today, PVC or PP pipes, which are distinguished by their characteristic gray color, are usually used for laying internal sewage. For risers and sun loungers, their diameter should be 110 mm, and for the outlet - 40 and 50 mm. However, do not forget that such pipes are used exclusively for internal sewage, and other solutions should be used for external ones.

Typically, pipes that are installed underground from a septic tank or deep cleaning station to discharge are orange in color, which is extremely simple - the bright orange color is more noticeable in the ground. But the pipes used for external sewage differ from others not only in color, but also in the requirements that apply to them. They have high rigidity, since they have a significant load.

More reliable designs are also offered, a striking example of which are two-layer corrugated pipes. But their laying depth, when maintaining a sewer system, is usually small (usually up to two meters), so there is no need to use them. Most often, red pipes have a diameter of 110 mm, which is quite enough to drain wastewater.

Below we will consider all the disadvantages and advantages of pipes made from different materials among which the most used are:

Cast iron.

Advantages: durable and strong pipes, able to withstand high loads.

Disadvantages: heavy and fragile, expensive, on the inside, as a result of corrosion, roughness may form, which can cause blockage.

Polypropylene.

Advantages: flexible and lightweight, making them in high demand for internal sewage. Cope well with high flow temperatures.

Disadvantages: if you use them for their intended purpose, then they have no disadvantages.

Polyvinyl chloride.

Advantages: reminiscent of cast iron, light and inexpensive. Most often used for outdoor sewage.

Disadvantages: they do not tolerate high wastewater temperatures, brittle (crack, do not bend).

Sewerage installation in a private house: pipe laying

Perhaps the most complex process during construction autonomous sewerage in a country house is wiring and pipe laying. If you are going to do this work on your own, then call someone for help, as this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also its speed. In addition, we advise you to check the tightness of the system by spilling it with water, and only then, when you are sure of the reliability of all seams, proceed to full operation.

Pipe connection

As mentioned earlier, the easiest option is to use PVC or PP pipes for sewage. Today, a huge number of products are offered on the construction market, so you can easily find revisions, elbows, tees and plastic pipes that are easily and securely connected at the joints, which is ensured by the presence of rubber cuffs. If necessary, all joints are additionally treated with sanitary sealant. Well, where the pipe passes through the ceiling and the wall, we recommend installing a sleeve.

Also, do not forget about the slope of the pipes. Taking into account SNiP, the angle of inclination of a pipe in a non-pressure system directly depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, you need to create a slope of less than 3 cm per 1 meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - at least 2 cm per 1 meter. Keep this in mind, as different points of the pipeline will have to be laid at different heights to ensure required slope.

Sewer outlet

In order not to encounter a discrepancy with the outer and internal systems sewer, you need to start installing the sewer in a private house from the outlet (the border part of the sewer connecting the pipe that leads to the septic tank with the pipe leaving the house).

The outlet must be installed through a foundation that exceeds the depth of soil freezing corresponding to your region. Naturally, you can make the outlet even higher, but you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in winter. If you do not do this, then there is a high probability that you will only be able to use the toilet in the spring, after warmer weather.

If you did not take care of this during the construction of the foundation, then you will have to punch a hole in its structure, into which a drain pipe with a sleeve can easily fit. Moreover, the sleeve is a small piece of pipe with a larger diameter than that of the sewer (130-160 mm). It should protrude from both sides of the foundation by at least 15 cm.

Summarizing all of the above, we can say that at the current stage you need to make a hole in the foundation and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Remember that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. The sleeve itself is necessary so that you can set the required slope of the pipe in relation to the septic tank (2 cm per 1 m).

Wiring and installation of the riser

It is good if the riser is in the toilet, since the recommended size of the pipe from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted both openly and hidden, depending on how exactly the pipes will be located - in special boxes, channels, walls and niches or next to the wall (fastening with clamps, pendants, etc.).

To connect sewer pipes with risers, it is worth using oblique tees, and at the joints of pipes of different diameters, adapters must be used. At the intersection of pipes from sinks, shower and bath, you need to install a collector pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm. At the same time, take care of water seals that will protect the sense of smell from unpleasant odors.

On each riser, it is imperative to mount a special tee with which you can clean the blockage. In order not to carry out work on cleaning the sewer in the future, mount the cleaning after each turn of the pipe.

Exhaust pipe outlet

It should be said right away that the output and installation of the fan pipe plays an important role, since it is needed for:

maintaining normal atmospheric pressure inside the system so that air discharge and water hammer do not occur;
increase the durability of sewerage;
ventilation of the entire system, which is required for effective work septic tank.

The fan pipe is a continuation of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that leads to the roof. Before connecting the riser and the fan pipe, you need to perform an audit. Then you can bring the pipe to the attic at any convenient angle.

We do not recommend simplifying the work by combining a fan pipe with ventilation or a chimney. In addition, it is necessary to locate its exit as far as possible from balconies and windows (at a distance of at least 4 m). Moreover, the height of the indentation from the roof should in no case be less than 70 cm. In addition, it is necessary to have sewer ventilation, house ventilation and a chimney at different levels.

Summing up all the above, we can note the following:

at the first stage, we recommend developing a detailed wiring diagram, minimizing the distance from plumbing to the riser;

it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes going to the riser, in the course of connecting other additional devices (avoid reducing the diameter);

follow one simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be located to the riser (the toilet should be closest to the riser);

where blockages may form in the future, it is necessary to provide for cleaning and revision;

in the wiring system for ventilation, there must be a fan pipe.

Installation of external sewerage in a private house

You can equip an external sewage system in a country house with your own hands different ways, which we will discuss below. It is important to correctly choose a system that would fully satisfy the needs.

It is necessary to decide on the scheme for arranging sewerage, taking into account the following factors:

permanent or temporary residence in a private house;
the number of people who live in the house daily;
daily water consumption by one person (depends on the presence of a washbasin, washing machine, toilet bowl, sink, bathtub, shower, etc.);
groundwater level;
soil structure and type;
the size of your area around the house and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
climatic conditions.

All sewerage systems for a private house can be divided into 2 types:

storage systems (cesspool without a bottom, sealed container);

facilities used for wastewater treatment (aerotank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a filtration field and three or two chambers, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with natural treatment and two overflowing wells, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning).

Cesspool without a bottom

A cesspool is the oldest and most proven method of sewerage in a private house. Even 50 years ago, this method simply had no alternatives. True, then people did not use as much water as they do today.

A cesspool is the same well that has no bottom. In it, you can make walls of concrete rings, concrete, bricks and other material, leaving the soil as the bottom. After sewage enters the pit from the house, relatively clean water, being purified, will seep into the soil, and fecal matter and organic waste will accumulate, gradually settling to the bottom. When the well is completely filled with solid waste, it must be cleaned.

Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, which means that when it was full, they simply buried it and dug a new hole in another place.

It is worth considering the fact that it is possible to install sewerage in a private house with the help of a cesspool only when the volume of drains per day does not exceed 1 m 3. Only in this way can soil microorganisms that feed on organic matter have time to process water that penetrates into the soil through the bottom of the pit. In this case, if this norm is exceeded by the volume of wastewater, the water will not receive the necessary treatment, which will provoke pollution of groundwater. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated.

If you add microorganisms to the pit, it will reduce the unpleasant odor coming from it, and the cleaning process will be significantly accelerated. But be that as it may, you should not risk it.

Therefore, it is necessary to build a cesspool without a bottom only when the family does not live in a private house permanently, but happens only a few times a week, without spending a lot of water. At the same time, it should be taken into account that groundwater should lie 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to exclude contamination of the soil and water sources. The cesspool has a low price, but be that as it may, today it is not very popular in modern cottages and country houses.

Sealed container, presented in the form storage tank

In this case, a special sealed container must be installed next to the house, where sewage will flow from the house through pipes. You can buy a ready-made container, which will be made of plastic, metal or some other material. However, if necessary, you can make it from concrete rings with your own hands. The lid is most often made of metal, and the bottom is made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of such a sewer is complete tightness. For this type of sewage, you can use pragma corrugated pipes.

This container must be cleaned. As soon as it is completely filled, you will have to call a sewage truck, which will not be very expensive. The frequency of emptying the tank is directly dependent on the volume of wastewater and the size of the tank. For example, if there are 4 people in the house who use the toilet, washing machine, bath and shower, then the volume of the storage tank must be at least 8 m 3, and it must be cleaned every 10-14 days.

Therefore, if a high occurrence of groundwater is noted on your site, then it makes sense to use an airtight cesspool to equip the sewerage system at home. Thus, you can protect the soil and water sources from possible pollution.

But the main disadvantage of this system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. So think in advance about the place where the pit will be located in order to provide a convenient access to it. The bottom of the pit or container is not deeper than 3 meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom.

It is also important that the lid storage capacity was qualitatively insulated, and the pipeline had good protection from freezing. The cost of this container directly depends on the volume and material from which it will be made. Most cheap option- the use of used eurocubes, and the most expensive is concrete pouring or brick. Do not forget about the monthly costs of cleaning the tank.

Single-chamber septic tank - the easiest way to clean the soil

It is worth noting that a single-chamber septic tank is not much different from a simple cesspool. Such a structure is a well, where the bottom is covered with an insignificant layer of rubble (not less than 30 cm), and coarse-grained sand is poured over it with the same layer. Otherwise, sewage from the house penetrates through pipes into the well, where water seeps through crushed stone, sand and soil, being cleaned by 50%. Naturally, sand and gravel greatly increases the quality of water treatment, but does not solve this problem radically.

In a private house, it is not recommended to build sewers using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or in the case of a large volume of wastewater. You can use this option for temporary residence and low groundwater levels. In addition, periodically you need to change the sand and gravel, as they become silted.

Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells

The construction of overflow settling wells and filter wells is a fairly popular way of arranging sewage in a private house. Moreover, this option is quite economical and can be installed independently.

Such a sewer system includes two wells: the first has a sealed bottom, and the second does not, but is sprinkled with sand and gravel.

Waste water from the house is fed into the first well, in which solid waste and feces sink to the bottom, while greasy waste floats to the surface. Between these two methods, relatively clarified water is formed. Moreover, the first well is connected to the second one with the help of an overflow pipe approximately 2/3 of its height, which is under a slight slope, allowing water to flow there calmly.

Clarified water enters the second well, which subsequently seeps through the soil, crushed stone and sand, being purified even better.

The first well is used as a sump, and the second one is used as a filter. The first well fills up with feces from time to time and to clean it, you will need to call a special sewage machine. This should be done approximately once every 6 months. To reduce unpleasant odors, add microorganisms that decompose feces to the first well.

The two-chamber septic tank described above can be made on your own from concrete, brick or concrete rings, or you can buy a ready-made plastic septic tank from the manufacturer, where additional cleaning will be carried out using special microorganisms.

It is recommended to install a sewerage system in a private house based on two overflow wells only when, even during the flood period, the groundwater level is below 1 meter from the bottom of the second well. If there is sandy or sandy soil on the territory of your site, then this will be great option. However, do not forget that after about 5 years, crushed stone and sand in the second ring will have to be replaced.

Biological or soil treatment - septic tank with filtration field

This type of septic tank is made in the form of a single container, including several individual containers, which are connected by pipes or into two or three sections. As a rule, if you need to install this type of sewer system in a private house, you can buy a ready-made version.

The first capacity of the septic tank is used to settle the drains, as is the case in an ordinary settling well. The partially clarified water then flows into a second tank or section, where all organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. Then the more clarified water goes to the filtration fields.

A fairly large underground area (approximately 30 m 2) acts as a filtration field. This is where primary wastewater treatment takes place. In this case, the water is purified by approximately 80%.

If there is sandy or sandy soil on your land, then this will be an excellent option, otherwise you will have to build an artificial filtration field from crushed stone and sand. Once the water has passed the filtration field, it can be collected in pipelines and directed to drainage ditches or pilot wells. It is forbidden to plant edible trees and vegetables above the filtration field, because in this case you will break a flower bed.

Attention! You can buy drainage wells at a discount in this section of the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/catalogue/drenazhnye-kolodtsy/, if you indicate that you came on our recommendation - the Remontik website.

Over time, the filtration can become silted up and it will have to be cleaned, or rather, crushed stone and sand should be replaced. This is a huge amount of work in which your site may suffer.

Installation of a sewerage system with a filtration field is only suitable when groundwater is located at a depth of at least 2.5-3 m. At the same time, you must understand that there must be a distance of at least 30 m from the filtration field to water sources and residential buildings.

Septic tank with biofilter - station natural cleaning

Thanks to the deep cleaning station, it is really possible to complete a complete installation of sewage in a private house. And this despite the high level of groundwater.

This station acts as a capacity, which is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to buy it from a trusted manufacturer, asking professionals about the required volume and equipment. The cost of this septic tank usually starts at $1,200, which is not cheap.

The first chamber of this septic tank is used to settle water, and in the second, organic residues are decomposed with the help of anaerobic microorganisms. In the third, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed by aerobic bacteria, which require a constant supply of air. To ensure such conditions, a pipe is installed above the chamber. It should rise 50 cm above the ground. In that pipe leading from the third to the fourth chamber, a special filter is installed, into which aerobic bacteria actually settle. It turns out a kind of filtering field, but it is more miniature and concentrated.

Due to the small area of water movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, water purification is carried out even more efficiently (up to 90-95%). Such purification allows you to use water for watering the garden, washing the car and many other purposes.

From the fourth chamber there is a pipe that goes either to the storage tank or to the drainage ditch.

For a private house where people live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is an excellent solution. Adding microorganisms to a septic tank is easy - you just need to pour them into the toilet. This cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not need electricity. The downside is that it needs regular maintenance, as bacteria will simply die if left out of the sewage. If you add new bacteria, they will only work after 2 weeks.

Artificial treatment stations - septic tank with forced air supply

This is an accelerated cleaning station, where natural processes occur artificially. The installation of a sewer system in a country house with an aeration tank is impossible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is required for the air pump and connecting the air distributor.

Such a septic tank has 3 separate chambers or containers that are interconnected. Through the sewer pipe, water enters the first chamber, where it settles and solid waste precipitates. Then the partially purified water passes into the second chamber, which acts as an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of microorganisms and plants, is mixed with water. All microorganisms and bacteria of activated sludge are aerobic, therefore forced aeration is extremely important for their vital activity.

Then the water is mixed with sludge and goes to the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump. Further, with the help of a special pump, the sludge is pumped back to the aeration tank.

Forced air supply provides fast wastewater treatment, and water after treatment can be used for various technical needs (car washing, watering the garden, etc.).

Of course, the aerotank will cost you quite a lot (from $ 3,700), but at the same time it is very useful. When installing sewers of this type there are no restrictions. Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting only the need for electricity, constant maintenance so that the bacteria do not die.

If your site has a high level of groundwater, then having concluded from everything written above, you can opt for several options:

septic tank with biofilter;

A few general rules for sewerage in a private house

There are certain restrictions on the placement of the sewerage system.

Residential building location:

50 m from aeration treatment plants;
300 m from drain wells and station;
25 m from the filter field;
8 m from the filter well.

Septic location:

not less than 20-50 m from any water sources (well, well, pond);
not less than 10 m from the garden.

Before proceeding with the installation of sewerage in a private house, you must make its project. You should not work without it, since sewage is such a system in which approximation is unacceptable. It is better to contact a design bureau or architects who will help create a quality project, taking into account the climate, operating conditions, soil and site. It's good if you do a sewerage project along with a house project even before construction.

All work on the installation of the sewer system is not difficult. You only need to properly dilute the pipes around the house, connect them to the collector and bring them to the septic tank. For land works you need to hire an excavator, although you can make them yourself. The main is the development of the project and right choice sewer systems.

It is difficult for us to live without amenities, even being in a private house. We strive to provide maximum convenience, creating an optimal standard of living for our family. For this, it is very important to think over the issue of construction in advance.

When constructing a sewer with your own hands in a private country cottage, You can save money, but you need to carry out these works in accordance with construction and installation requirements.

Sewerage in the house involves the arrangement of external and internal sewerage.

Internal is piping, installation of a fan pipe and a riser.

The outer one includes a set of pipes running from the house to a septic tank or a deep cleaning station.

Scheme of internal sewerage

You need to choose a scheme based on the layout of each house. Ideally, when all plumbing equipment is tied to one collector, through which water will flow.

AT big house, with several bathrooms, it is more correct to prefer such a scheme in which there will be at least two cesspools or a septic tank. And in two-story house risers need to be installed.

How to draw up a sewerage scheme for a private house:

make a house plan;
determine the location of the risers;
mark the locations of plumbing fixtures and determine how to connect them;
depict the pipes going from the fittings and the riser to the plumbing, and all the elements of the connection;
do this for each floor;
determine the dimensions of the fan pipe and riser;
sum the length of all inner pipes;
at the final stage, draw up an external sewerage scheme.

How to choose sewer pipes

For external and internal sewage, different ones are used.

For laying pipes inside, PVC and gray are used. For sunbeds and risers, pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are used, and for drains - 40 and 50 mm. Turns are made with two plastic knees bent at a right angle.

Often, pipes for external sewerage are orange, 110 mm in diameter and have the necessary rigidity. Two-layer corrugated pipes can also be used.

Pipe Properties

Cast iron:

durable and strong, designed for heavy loads.
expensive, heavy and brittle, corrosion of the interior can contribute to blockages.

Polypropylene:

light and flexible, well withstand high water temperatures.
there are no shortcomings.

PVC:

inexpensive and lightweight, used for outdoor sewage.
Fragile, do not tolerate high water temperatures well.

Pipe laying

The most serious process in the construction of sewerage in the house is the wiring and laying of pipes. At the end of the work, check the tightness of the system, and only then, proceed to its operation.

Pipe connection

Today, many types of revisions, tees, elbows and plastic pipes that connect easily. Connection points can be processed. And in places where the pipe passes through the foundation, it is recommended to install a sleeve.

It is also important to remember about the slope of the pipes, which depends on its diameter, and is 2 - 3 cm per 1 m.

Sewer outlet

In order not to encounter a discrepancy between the internal and external sewers, start the installation of the sewer from the outlet,

It is mounted through the foundation deeper than the frost level. When setting the outlet higher, it will be necessary to insulate the pipe.

If you didn't think about it at the time, you will need to punch a hole in it, sufficient to install a drain pipe with a sleeve. A sleeve is a small piece of pipe with a diameter of 130-160 mm. It should protrude 15 cm from both sides of the foundation.

The diameter of the outlet must not be less than the diameter of the riser. A sleeve is needed to create a pipe slope.

Dilution of pipes and installation of a riser

It is ideal to place the riser in the toilet. It is mounted openly or hidden.

To connect sewer pipes with a riser, oblique tees are used, and at the joints of pipes that are different in diameter, adapters are used. At the intersection of pipes, it is necessary to install a collector having a diameter of 100-110 mm. Also install water seals that will protect you from unpleasant odors.

Installation of a special tee (revision) on each riser is required. With its help, it will be possible to clean the blockage. You can set the cleaning after each bend.

The riser is best located in the toilet of a private house

Exhaust pipe outlet

Fan pipe functions:

supports Atmosphere pressure within the system;
increases the durability of the sewer system;
ventilates the entire sewerage system.

A fan pipe is called a continuation of the riser. This is a pipe leading to the roof. Before connecting the fan pipe and riser, it is important to install a revision. After that, the pipe is displayed at a convenient angle to the attic.

Do not combine a fan pipe with a chimney or ventilation at home. The outlet of the fan pipe must be located at a distance of 4 meters from windows and balconies. The height of the retreat from the roof should be 70 cm. It is also important to place sewer, house and chimney ventilation at different levels.

External sewerage at home

You can equip the sewer in the house in different ways, but it is very important to choose correct system that suits your needs.

It is necessary to choose an external sewage scheme taking into account the following:

temporarily or permanently you live in the house;
the number of people living;
daily water consumption per person;
ground water level;
plot size;
soil type and structure;
climate.

For more detailed information, you should read the relevant chapters of SNiP and SanPin.

All external sewage systems are divided into two types:

storage (cesspool, sealed container);
wastewater treatment structures (single-chamber septic tank, septic tank with two overflowing wells, aeration tank, septic tank with biofilter, septic tank with several chambers and a filtration field).

Cesspool without a bottom

This is very old way sewer, which is now used exclusively as a country house.

In the cesspool, walls are made of rings of concrete or bricks, and the earth remains as the bottom. In the pit, relatively clean water seeps into the ground, and organic waste settles to the bottom.

When completely filled with waste, it needs to be cleaned.

It is possible to make such a cesspool if the house is not permanently inhabited and does not consume a lot of water. At the same time, groundwater must pass at least 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise it will lead to soil water pollution.

Adding microorganisms to the pit will slightly reduce the unpleasant odor and speed up the process of water purification.

Sealed storage tank

This option involves the installation of a sealed container into which water will drain. You can purchase a ready-made container made of metal or plastic, or you can make your own from concrete rings. The lid is made of metal, and the bottom is made of concrete. Important in the construction of the storage tank is its complete tightness and insulated cover.

When filling the tank, it must be cleaned using a special sewage machine. The volume of the tank and the frequency of its cleaning depends on the water consumption.

This system can be used when groundwater is high, so you secure water sources and soil. But its disadvantage is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often.

Single chamber septic tank

This is a well, the bottom of which is sprinkled with a layer of rubble and coarse sand. Water seeping through them is purified by 50%. Along with mechanical cleaning, there are processes of biological cleaning.

It is not necessary to build such a sewer in a private house if people live in it permanently. This option can only be used when the groundwater level is low. It should be noted that gravel and sand need to be changed periodically.

With your own hands, a septic tank can be made of polypropylene, reinforced concrete rings, bricks or a bay of its walls and floor. At the same time, it is necessary to determine whether the post-treatment of wastewater will take place in the well field or in the filtration field. You also need to equip the system and carry out its hydro and thermal insulation.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most popular way of arranging in a country house, it is economical and can be built independently.

It consists of two wells. The first one has a sealed bottom, and the second one does not, but is covered with rubble and sand, which will need to be replaced about once every five years.

The first well plays the role of a sump, and the second - a filter well. Periodically, the first well is filled with waste and to clean it you need to call a sewage truck about 2 times a year.

It is worth installing such a sewage system in the house, even if during the flood the groundwater level is below 1 m from the bottom of the second well.

Soil and biological treatment - septic tank with filtration field

This type of septic tank is made in the form of a container, divided into sections connected by pipes.

The first container is needed for settling wastewater. The clarified water goes to the second section, where organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. After the water goes to the filtration fields.

This is a vast underground area where soil sewage treatment takes place. If the soil in your area is sandy, then this perfect option. After that, the water is sent through pipelines to a well or drainage ditch.

Sometimes it is necessary to replace sand and gravel in the filtration field.

Natural treatment station - septic tank with biofilter

With its help, you can sewer at any level of groundwater.

Such a station is a container divided into 3-4 sections.

In the first, water is settled, in the second, organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic microorganisms. In the third, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed by aerobic bacteria that live only under the condition of a constant air supply. To do this, a pipe rising above the ground is installed above the chamber. In the pipe leading from the third chamber to the fourth, there is a filter with aerobic bacteria. Purified water can be used for technical purposes. From the fourth chamber there is a pipe leading to a drainage ditch, or storage tank.

For a country house permanent residence, a septic tank with a biofilter is the optimal solution. The disadvantage is that with a changeable residence, the bacteria will simply die.

Artificial cleaning station - septic tank with forced air supply

This is a fast cleaning installation, in which natural processes are artificially caused. The device of sewerage with the help of an aerotank is impossible without leading to it

It is not always possible to connect a country cottage to the village sewer system. But now there are various septic tanks for installation within your own estate. You can always put one of the options with your own hands and connect pipes from home plumbing to it. Just how to make a sewer in a private house so that it serves correctly and properly for many years. There are few rules for the design and installation of such an autonomous drainage system, but they must all be observed.

Types of sewer systems in private homes

The external street part of the sewerage of a country house can be arranged in the form of:

sealed storage tank;
septic tank (with one or more cameras);
septic tank with infiltrator;
biological stations with aerobic purification.

Plus, there are still cesspools, but they should only be used in summer cottages with small volumes of effluents. For the arrangement of sewage in a cottage with permanent residence of two or three people, you should choose only a full-fledged septic tank. Moreover, in some cases, a simple accumulator will be an ideal choice, and in others, a clean station with aerobic microorganisms.

Before buying a particular model, you need to carefully weigh everything. It is important here that the number of people living in the house, and the amount of wastewater in cubic meters per day, and the characteristics of the soil in the adjacent area.

Storage tank, hermetic container

It is customary to choose a storage tank at a high groundwater level (GWL). This airtight container is not afraid of rains and floods, sewage will come out of it only in an emergency. It is best to make such a drive from concrete rings or an iron tank. Comes out cheap and fast. The only drawback of this sewage option is the constant cost of calling a sewage truck every two to three weeks to pump out sewage.

Installation of a sewer storage tank

Single chamber septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank is a slightly improved classic cesspool in the form of a well with a drainage bottom. The purification of wastewater in it occurs due to the passage of water from the internal sewerage of a private house through several layers of gravel and sand. It is not necessary to call vacuum trucks here, but it will be necessary to clean and wash the gravel-sand drainage twice a year. Such an option to make money comes out inexpensively, but it can only cope with a small amount of sewage (suitable only for families of a couple of people).

What is the difference between a single-chamber and a two-chamber septic tank

Two-chamber septic tank with overflow settling wells

A septic tank with two or three chambers is a design of several overflow wells. The first (and the second for sludge, if any) is made airtight, and the last, on the contrary, comes with drainage at the bottom. Such a sewage system is able to clean sufficiently large volumes of effluents from a private house and does not require special attention. However, if the groundwater is highly located, then such a septic structure will have to be abandoned.

The device of a two-chamber septic tank

Septic tank with filtration field

If the GWL is high and the cottage is large, then a septic tank with a filtration field or an infiltrator can be mounted to clean the sewerage. In this case, the drainage of water into the soil also occurs through a sand and gravel filter. However, here it is located not at the bottom of a narrow vertical well, but on a “field” located away from the foundation of the house in the form drainage pipes or a large infiltration structure.

Filtration field device options

Septic tank with biofilter

An anaerobic septic tank with a biofilter for money will cost more than the options listed above. However, it is more efficient and productive. Plus, the water after cleaning it can be used to water the garden or wash the car. Such a station is made at the factory from plastic or fiberglass and is divided into compartments inside. Effluent gradually flows into it through several chambers, one of which contains special organic-eating bacteria. The result is 90–95% purified water at the outlet.

Septic tank with biofilter

Septic tank with forced air supply

An aerobic septic tank (an active biological treatment station) is the maximum in terms of productivity and efficiency, which is among autonomous sewer systems for a private house. Wastewater treatment here is carried out by aerobic microorganisms that need a constant supply of oxygen. This is done using an electric pump, such a septic tank is volatile. But on the other hand, the rate of “eating” organic matter by bacteria is high, and the degree of purification fluctuates around 98–99%. A serious minus is the high cost of the station.

The device and principle of operation of a septic tank with forced ventilation

How to choose a sewer system for your home

For country house with temporary residence, a cesspool, a small storage tank or a single-chamber septic tank with soil drainage will be enough. But for a private house in which a large family constantly lives, a more powerful treatment plant is required. The best choice there will be an aerobic or anaerobic station.

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Regardless of the option chosen, the installation of the outer part of the local sewer system can almost always be done independently. It is enough to dig a hole, and then install a ready-made septic tank inside or build it there from brick or concrete.

Where to begin

Counting and thinking about how to make a sewer in your cottage is most correct not even during the construction of a dwelling, but even at the design stage. It is necessary to foresee technological openings for pipes in the ceilings, walls and foundation of the building. In an already built house, this is much more difficult to do. Here, as the replacement of electrical wiring or the installation of a ventilation system, it is better to calculate and recalculate everything in advance.

A simple diagram of a septic tank in a private house

How to calculate the volume of a septic tank

The calculation of the internal volume of the septic tank is made by the number of plumbing fixtures and the sum of their actual drains. But to simplify the sewerage in a private house, it is customary to plan based on 150–200 l / day of wastewater for each person permanently residing in it.

Paving depth

If a septic tank for arranging sewage is chosen with soil drainage, then it should be taken as far away from the cottage as possible. Otherwise, moisture leaving the soil will negatively affect its foundation. At a minimum, this distance should be 5 m, but in this case it is better to increase it to 8–10 m.

But if a sealed container or biostation is chosen, then the sewerage installation rules allow them to be located closer than five meters from the building. At the same time, the depth of digging in the treatment plant and sewer pipes from the building should be such that they do not freeze in winter.

System design

Designing an internal sewage system in the cottage itself is also quite simple. Difficulties can arise only if the house is built on several floors and with a lot of plumbing. For ordinary low-rise housing of 100-150 square meters, everything can be designed independently. It's no more difficult than choosing or an emergency gas generator. It is only necessary to comply with the relevant building codes.

Tilt rules

All horizontal sections of sewerage in a private house should be made at a slope of three (for pipes D = 50 mm) and two degrees (at D = 110 mm) in the direction of the flow of effluents. It is no longer possible to tilt pipelines, as water will flow through them too quickly, leaving feces and solid waste inside. And with a smaller slope, the sewage, on the contrary, will stagnate in the outlets, not reaching the central riser.

Internal piping

The internal sewage system consists of:

horizontal outlet (pipes to the septic tank);
vertical riser with vent hole top;
horizontal outlets to each plumbing fixture.

For laying the outlet, riser and branch from it to the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 100–120 mm should be selected, for other sections 40–50 mm will be enough. The easiest way to make sewer pipelines from plastic products connected in a socket with a rubber cuff for tightness.

Installation of sewer pipes in the house

Riser installation

The connection of the outlets to the vertical pipe is made by means of tees, and turning it to the outlet is done by a bend with a smooth bend. In general, the installation of the sewerage of a private house begins with the installation of a riser, assembled from the bottom up and strictly vertically. It is attached to the wall with clamps with a distance between the fasteners of a maximum of 2 meters. To carry it through interfloor ceilings metal sleeves are used a couple of centimeters wider than the pipeline itself.

Laying sewerage is an important stage in the construction of a private house. If there is no public sewerage, then in order to equip a completely autonomous drainage system, it is necessary to lay a network that delivers wastewater from sanitary and household appliances to a collection well. Installing a sewer for a private house is not a quick matter, but serious difficulties should not arise when doing the work yourself. The help of specialists may be required only on the most difficult areas pipeline.

The drainage system of a private house consists of internal and external sewage and a prefabricated well. In cottages with more than two floors with their own bathrooms, the sewer network is additionally equipped with a fan pipe.

Water supply and sanitation systems are usually designed and installed at the same time, since the same plumbing and household equipment is connected to them.

The procedure for laying a sewer network:

Prepare a pipeline project, taking into account all the devices connected to it, a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter, and calculate the amount of building materials needed.
Purchase pipes, fittings and fittings.
Cut pipes into lengths according to the project.
Carry out internal wiring and bring the sewer pipe outside.
Install fan pipe.
Install outdoor sewer.
Arrange a prefabricated well and connect a pipeline to it.

Internal wiring

Intra-house sewerage is collected in such a way that its lowest point is the place where the pipeline exits to the outside. In order not to be mistaken with the angle of inclination, you can start the assembly from this point.

If there is a project, the connection order is unimportant, but you must strictly follow the rules for performing internal wiring:

Each device and functional section of the pipeline requires a pipe of the appropriate diameter: for the riser and toilet - 11 cm, for showers, bathtubs, kitchen sinks - 5 cm, for everything else 3.2 cm is enough, but if several devices are connected to one pipe at the same time , its diameter must be at least 7.5 cm.
Since wastewater flows through the pipes by gravity, a pipeline slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter is required.
The connection of pipes must be tight and not interfere with the free flow of liquid: the pipes are connected along the flow, there should be no roughness and burrs at the junction.
Right angles should be avoided, as they are the most likely to form blockages. To perform a turn, it is better to use several knees with smaller angles.
It is necessary to prevent backflow from the sewer and the penetration bad smell to the house. To do this, a siphon or an S-shaped bent pipe is installed on the pipe of each plumbing fixture, which acts as a water seal.
If the house has several floors and each of them has plumbing, a common riser should be equipped.
Toilets are installed closer to other household and plumbing fixtures to the riser.
Piping nodes cannot be performed in places where walls or ceilings pass.
Holes for pipes passing through walls and ceilings are cut with a margin, it is advisable to insert special sleeves or sections of wider pipes into them.
The points of connection to the riser and the turns of the pipeline are equipped with a tee with an inspection window closed with a plug. Through these windows, pipes will be cleaned in the future in case of clogging.
The riser is located as close as possible to the outlet of the sewer to the outside.