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Proper installation of pvc windows in a wooden house. How to install plastic windows in a wooden house. Rules for secure installation

As practice shows, plastic windows (PVC or euro windows with double-glazed windows) have higher energy saving rates than ordinary wooden ones. For this, and also for a number of other reasons, more and more often in the construction or reconstruction wooden house preference for PVC windows.

Of course, this is a controversial preference, however, we will not figure out which windows are better - wooden or plastic.


In this article, we will consider how to independently install plastic windows in wooden house(as well as a frame made of logs or timber). Let's do this using the most common installation method as an example.

The window installation process consists of several stages:

  1. Dismantling old windows in a wooden house
  2. Preparing openings for installing new windows

The disassembly process, most often, does not present any particular difficulties. To work, you will need a saw (chainsaw, electric saw), an ax, a nail puller or a crowbar.

If the windows are old and the window casings are rotten and useless, then you can ruthlessly destroy everything and everything, not caring about the safety of the latter.

If the window frames are in good condition, then carefully remove them, after removing the glass. These frames can serve as a greenhouse, gazebo or other construction needs.

When dismantling old windows, be sure to observe safety precautions when working with cutting and chopping tools, use safety glasses when working with saws. Before sawing the structure, make sure that there are no nails or any metal pins - this will save the tool (saw band) and protect against possible injuries, since when the saw is jammed, it is quite difficult to hold it in your hands.

Preparing openings for installing new windows

After removing the frame, you need to make sure that the window opening is suitable for installing a new window. Namely, check the condition of the wood of the window frame, the absence of traces of rot, wormholes, cracks, chips and other damage. It is recommended to treat it with protective compounds. If the window frame is not suitable for further use, then it must be replaced with a new one. To do this, you need a good, dried planed board. The corners can be fastened with locks (for example, a tongue-and-groove), or you can simply twist them on self-tapping screws of sufficient length. Be sure to treat the structure with protective compounds.

When replacing a window frame, it is possible to carry out an audit and, if necessary, replace the vapor barrier, insulation materials, check the condition of the material (wood) in the window opening of the wall.

You may need to replace some sections of the opening. For example, in log houses, the areas of logs located under the window opening most often suffer. In this case, the damaged areas are cut out and replaced with pieces of logs of a suitable size. The replaced sections are fixed, depending on the possibilities, with brackets, long screeds, wooden locks (groove-thorn).

Be sure to treat the replaced area with protective compounds.

Installation of windows in a window frame (for logged wooden houses, installation of a window frame is carried out by means of a pigtail or casing) is most the right way window installations. Thus, the rigidity of the opening is maintained, and a strong base frame is created. But at the same time, the window itself will be able to self-regulate with seasonal fluctuations in the house (shrinkage, movement, etc.).

During installation, the window frame is set according to the level.

Installation of plastic windows in a wooden house

After the preparation, we proceed to the process of installing the window itself.

First of all, we disconnect the window frame from the sashes, if the window is deaf, we take out the double-glazed window. We do not remove the protective film from the windows - it will protect the profile from possible damage and scratches.

Window sill installation

If you want to install a window sill, then first of all we mount it. When installing, we adjust the plane using a level and backing plates (pieces of wood, plywood, etc.).

If the window sill is also made of PVC, then a washer must be placed under the head of the self-tapping screw (so that when tightening the self-tapping screw, it does not fall into the cavity of the window sill). We screw the screws into the places located under the future frame (so that it is beautiful and the hats are not visible). But most often, the lower wide board of the window frame serves as a window sill, and therefore the installation of an additional window sill is not required.

Frame fitting

We put the frame on blocks with a thickness of about 1 cm, we check the level of correct installation. On the sides, be sure to leave a gap of at least 1 cm, install the bars between the frame and the window box. They will prevent the frame from moving horizontally, prevent possible deformation of the frame during installation, and allow the window frame to be securely fastened to the window frame.


We check the plane of the surface of the wall (window box) and the frame, not allowing the frame to protrude beyond the boundaries of the window box.

Window frame installation

We fasten the frame with long self-tapping screws to the window frame, trying not to overtighten the self-tapping screw. After installing the frame, we hang the sashes and install double-glazed windows (in blind windows).

When installing a double-glazed window into a profile, it is necessary that there is a gap of about 5-7 mm between the double-glazed window and the profile. This will prevent the glass from warping and cracking in case of possible deformations of the profile (frame) during operation (seasonal fluctuations of the building, possible distortions during shrinkage and during operation).

Vertical adjustment is made by adjusting plates.

Installation of a double-glazed window

Further, with the help of a plastic glazing bead, the double-glazed window is fixed in the PVC profile. The glazing bead spike should click into the groove on the frame. The connection should be made by lightly tapping the glazing bead with a wooden or rubber mallet or hammer.

window foaming

Next, we foam the space between the window frame and the frame. We wait until the foam hardens. During this period of time, it is not recommended to open or set the window for ventilation in order to prevent deformation of the frame from the expansion of the foam.

After the foam hardens, we cut off the excess and you can proceed to trimming with platbands.

Installation of plastic windows in a wooden houseOn video

The last step is to remove the protective film, the window is ready for use.

The window opening in a wooden house has always been one of the most complex building blocks. With the advent of PVC windows, the problems caused by shrinkage processes have been supplemented by an extensive list of new restrictions and requirements associated with the universal design of metal-plastic profiles. In this connection, the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands should be done only after a thorough study of all the features of this technology.

Let us immediately emphasize that the principle PVC fixings windows in principle differs from the method of installation of classic wooden frames, therefore, even experienced craftsmen who have no experience in this area of ​​construction work, it is advisable to study the relevant documentation and technological advice from window manufacturers.

You will find general information about the technology of installing plastic windows in our article, and today we will give step by step instructions for self-assembly.

In preparation for self installation plastic window should pay special attention to the preparation of tools and materials. Considering that in most cases, the installation of windows in wooden houses is carried out on-site (dacha, Vacation home etc.), the absence of one specific key or device can create a lot of problems.

Consider the main groups of tools that are necessary to properly install the window structure.

Mechanics

From a mechanical point of view, plastic windows have a far from standard design, so the usual set of home craftsmen will not be enough.

The following is a list of mechanical tools required for effective work with PVC profile:

  • an iron and rubber hammer (an elastic striker is used to position the frame);
  • universal screwdriver;
  • a set of hex keys;
  • pin removal handle (with hexagonal tip);
  • electric drill;
  • drills for concrete and metal (diameters from 3 to 10 mm);
  • mounting wedges and gaskets;
  • universal adjusting key;
  • measuring set (tape measure, square, building level, plumb);
  • a device for gripping double-glazed windows (“glass jacks”).

Please note that a conventional hacksaw may not be enough to cut expansion profiles, since some types of extensions can be reinforced with metal. Of course, you can cut such a profile with a hand saw, but you will have to spend much more time on each detail.

In view of the foregoing, it is useful to supplement the above list with a mechanized version of the saw (electric jigsaw or circular saw), as well as fixing devices (clamps).

It is advisable to take a clamp with a wide grip, since they may be needed not only for fixing materials during cutting, but also for attaching expansion profiles.

Sealing

An integral part of the technology for assembling metal-plastic windows is sealing with sealing tapes and polymerizable substances.

When installing PVC profiles with your own hands, you can use the sprayers supplied with cylinders of mounting foam, but for professional work it is advisable to purchase a separate device that will significantly reduce the cost of consumables.

Separately, we emphasize that in addition to polyurethane foam, when installing PVC windows, silicone is often used, which is extremely difficult to squeeze out of the tube without a special “gun”.

Waterproofing

Any polymer sealant - and polyurethane foam is no exception - in the case of constant contact with outside air and moisture, it quickly collapses. To slow down this process, the inner and outer surfaces of the installation gaps must be protected with waterproofing (installed on internal surfaces, such protection is called "vapor barrier").

This can be done both with the help of a special tape, and through the application of special pastes (putties).

Depending on what type of waterproofing will be preferred, the basic list of tools must be supplemented with scissors or a set of spatulas.

Preparing for installation

After the PVC window is purchased and delivered, it is imperative to check the completeness and compliance of the actual dimensions with the parameters that were specified in the order.

Before starting a technical description of the self-installation of windows, we list the main terms used to refer to the elements of their design:

  • frame (power base of the window);
  • sash (movable part of the window);
  • double-glazed window (1-2-3 chamber set of glasses combined into a single block);
  • impost (internal frame partitions);
  • glazing bead (latching strips necessary for fixing double-glazed windows in a frame or sashes);
  • accessories (operating and regulating elements of a window);
  • slope (decorative panel covering the end of the log house or the inner plane of the casing);
  • windowsill;
  • dobor (expanding profile used to adjust the geometric dimensions of the window).

Examination

As practice shows, window handles and other auxiliary fittings are often lost during transportation.

If the order included mosquito net– it is necessary to check the presence of fasteners for its installation.

In addition to completeness, compliance with the size of the window and casing is checked. The main test criterion is simple - the installation gap should be no more than 2 cm (but not less than 5 mm!). It should be borne in mind that when comparing linear dimensions, the above tolerances are multiplied by two. That is, if the inner width of the casing, for example, is 200 cm, then the total width of the frame should be no more than 200-2 * 2 = 196 cm.

In those cases when the window was bought with the expectation of building extensions, measurements are made taking into account the mutual overlap of the locks.

Next, you need to select the fastening dowels, the length of which should be such that, when fully screwed, they do not pierce through the casing.

This requirement is relevant only for those cases when the installation of the window is carried out with the drilling of the profile. However, it should be remembered that this installation method is a spare and is used only in cases where the window is mounted in a pigtail, consisting only of a mortgage beam.

The main way to fix a PVC window in the opening is to install it on anchor plates, the purchase of which should also be included in the list of preparatory work.

Disassembly and preparation for installation

The next stage of preparation for installation is disassembly of the factory delivery set. Despite the fact that the window can be installed without dismantling the double-glazed windows, we recommend using the option with complete disassembly, since it is much easier to install and center a light frame than a massive and inconvenient window block.

Below is a step-by-step instruction for the disassembly and preparation process:

  • remove the packaging and the protective tape (you can leave the tape on the inner surfaces, but if you leave it on the outside, then after 1-2 months it will firmly “stick” to the frame);
  • remove glass panes. To do this, you need to remove the glazing beads from the latches. You should start from the bottom;
  • dismantle the frames, for which you will need to remove the locking pins (a special key mentioned in the previous section is intended for this operation);
  • dismantle auxiliary fittings, otherwise during installation it may be lost or damaged (plugs for drainage holes, covers for hinges, etc.).
  • if the window is installed in the reverse quarter - stick PSUL sealing tape on the outer perimeter of the frame;
  • drill holes for dowels or mount anchor plates (depending on installation method).

We emphasize the following nuances:

  • when removing double-glazed windows, the initial position of the left and right glazing beads should be noted;
  • the lower edge of double-glazed windows must be installed on special gaskets - their position must be noted;
  • gripping glass panels is best done using a special tool (it is also indicated in the list of tools listed above);
  • removed double-glazed windows should be handled with extreme care so as not to damage the edges (and also to avoid vertical storage).

Installation methods

There are two different ways PVC installations do-it-yourself windows: with and without disassembly of the window block.

This difference is due to two factors: the window fastening scheme and the mass of the structure.

The first option is more versatile and allows you to install the window in any way.

The second method is used only in cases where the fixation of the window block in the opening is carried out using anchor plates. It is used for the installation of fixed windows, or for mass installation of standard format windows in a T-shaped casing.

Obviously, the installation of a window without disassembly is an order of magnitude faster than with disassembly. However, due to the fact that most of the assembled metal-plastic window blocks are of considerable weight, only the first option is recommended for self-installation.

Installation of plastic windows

In order to correctly install the window yourself, you should clearly understand the main rule of installation operations of this type: the effectiveness of the window depends not only on the quality of the double-glazed window, but also on correct assembly the entire structure of the window block, which includes several auxiliary subsystems.

Under "auxiliary subsystems" in this case we mean:

  • waterproofing;
  • additional seals;
  • slopes;
  • low tides;
  • platbands.

Particular attention should be paid to the position and protection of sealants. The figure on the right shows the basic layout of additional seals.

Please note that the seal around the outer perimeter of the window is installed only when mounting in a reverse quarter. If the window is mounted in a conventional T-shaped casing (which is the most common case), then the slopes play the role of such a seal.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly install PVC windows in wooden houses.

Removing old windows

When disassembling windows in houses made of timber and logs, special attention should be paid to the safety of the pigtails, since making a new one will be expensive.

In cases where the previous installation was carried out correctly, and the frames were fastened with self-tapping screws, the dismantling sequence consists of only three operations: removing the fasteners, removing the window block and cleaning the casing from the remnants of the mounting foam.

Some problems may arise if the old window was nailed down, which may require an additional tool - a nail puller - to remove it.

It is important to take into account that, before installing a new window, it is necessary to inspect the casing frame. Namely: it is necessary to check for cracks, chips, as well as the absence of signs of decay or woodworm damage. If any of the above factors is detected, the pigtail should be replaced with a new one.

Note that regarding the replacement of the pigtail, you can find many conflicting recommendations on the network, among which there are those that state that when repairing old houses, windows with a metal-plastic frame can be installed without a pigtail. We consider this approach to be wrong, since even old log house with seasonal changes in humidity, it can create a displacement sufficient to jam or even destroy a window.

Of all types of wooden buildings, only in a frame house you can not install a sliding casing, but even in this case, the window is installed in a finished wooden frame.

Unlike stone houses, in wooden buildings there is rarely a need for “patching” repair of the place for installation, since the casing almost always provides an even rectangular opening for fixing a new window.

The only exception may be the situation when it is necessary to insert a window that is smaller than the previous one (the need for such a replacement often arises when repairing a bath). In this case, the preparation of the internal opening consists in increasing the thickness of the casing strips.

Frame fitting

The most common mistake, performed when installing a euro-window with your own hands - these are incorrectly taken original dimensions.

Therefore, before you start fixing the window, you need to make sure that it really fits the installation opening.

Trying on the frame is simple - supports 1.5-2 cm thick are laid on the lower casing bar. The frame is installed on them, after which a visual assessment of the remaining gaps is performed.

If in any part of the window they exceed 2.5 cm, you need to think about correcting the geometric dimensions of the frame using extensions.

Separately, we note one nuance - if the size of the gap between the frame and the casing is more than 2 cm, but less than the minimum thickness of the available expander, then there is a temptation to blow it out with foam without any size correction. Many do this, after which they cannot understand why it smells so cold from an expensive PVC window.

It is important to remember: mounting foam is not a full-fledged heat insulator, and in no case can it be a substitute for a window profile.

Window frame installation

After the correspondence between the dimensions of the frame and the opening has been established, you can proceed to the main operations.

Let's list them step by step:

  1. initial positioning. It is carried out in the same way as fitting: the frame is installed on the centering pegs, after which it is necessary to achieve a uniform thickness of the installation gap around the entire perimeter of the frame.
  2. Spatial alignment. For positioning in the vertical plane, it is better to use a plumb line, in the horizontal - the building level. Working fixation is performed using lateral and upper spacers.
  3. After the accuracy of the installation is confirmed, fix the vertical points first, and only after an additional check - the side ones. As mentioned above, fasteners can be long self-tapping screws or anchor plates.
  4. Immediately after the fixing is completed, we recommend installing a flashing tide, since after assembling the window, access to the corresponding mounting positions will be difficult (this moment is especially relevant for windows located on the second floor).
  5. Installing window sashes on workplaces.
  6. Installation of double-glazed windows. Please note that the glass panel must not be placed directly on the plastic of the sash (during dismantling, special gaskets must be saved).
  7. Fixing double-glazed windows with glazing beads (in reverse order).
  8. Close the sashes and check the positioning again.
  9. We carry out installation of accessories.

Once again, we recall what you need to pay special attention to when installing the frame:

  • the position of the transverse line of the window - for wooden houses it should run exactly in the center of the log house;
  • the length of the fixing dowels (if the through fixation method is used) should not exceed the total thickness of the frame and casing boards;
  • to secure the outer tails of the anchor plates, use fasteners that are shorter than the thickness of the casing boards.

window foaming

The next step is to fill the installation gap with mounting foam. Despite the seeming simplicity, this stage has several technical features:

  1. Mounting foam expands during polymerization and the force created in this case is capable of deforming the metal-plastic profile. Therefore, blowing should be done only on a fully assembled and closed window.
  2. If it is intended to use a tape waterproofing option, it is much more convenient to immediately veneer the installation gap area on the outside of the frame.
  3. To simplify the installation of the vapor barrier, we recommend cutting the tape and fixing it on the window frame.

Blowing is done from the inside, after which the seam is immediately sealed with pre-installed pieces of vapor barrier tape.

Possible problems with incorrect installation of windows

Avoiding lengthy discussions on the topic “which windows are better to install so that the savings are truly economical”, we formulate a simple rule: any, even the most expensive window, will not provide the declared characteristics if it is installed incorrectly.

Therefore, in addition to strictly following the above recommendations, it is necessary to avoid the following mistakes:

  • incorrect position of the window along the thickness of the frame. The consequence of the error is freezing and condensate. For classic wooden houses, windows are installed along the center line. In cases where the house is lined with bricks or lined with thermal insulation, we recommend contacting specialists to calculate the position of the window;
  • no seasonal adjustment. The consequence of the error is a violation of air exchange standards. In those windows, where possible, the adjustment is carried out using the splines set in the desired position.

The company "Master Srubov" accepts orders for finishing, repair and restoration of log and square log cabins, including the installation or replacement of windows. You can clarify the details of cooperation and order the departure of the measurer by contacting our specialists by any of the communication methods published on the page.

Do-it-yourself window installation will save up to 50% of the money that would be spent on installation by a third-party company. But it is very important to do everything right, otherwise the savings will be doubtful. For wooden houses, there are some features that you should be aware of.

Possible problems with incorrect installation of windows

It is advisable to adequately assess your strengths in advance, because some mistakes can become very expensive:

    • lack of casing - a house made of timber during shrinkage “walks” and begins to put pressure on window frames;
    • the use of mounting foam in the shrinkage gap between the top in the casing and the wall of the house - the hardened foam is very hard and will transfer pressure from the upper bars to the window frame, nullifying the functions of the casing;

    • incorrect calculation of the dimensions of the plastic window frame - not taking into account the mounting gap, you will have to expand the window opening;

    • too large a gap between the frame and the wall - with a simple foaming of such a gap, the slopes will always be cold, it is better to insert an additional expansion profile;
    • absence external protection installation gap - by foaming the distance between the frame and the casing, from the outside it is better to close the gap with PSUL tape, which provides foam protection from ultraviolet radiation, but allows moisture to evaporate;

    • lack of waterproofing from the outside and vapor barrier from the inside - the foam is destroyed when exposed to the atmosphere, which leads to a deterioration in the insulating properties;

    • placing the window in the "cold zone" - is the cause of the freezing of the slopes and the formation of condensate from the inside

If there is the slightest possibility of making one of these mistakes due to inexperience, it is better not to save and order the installation of windows. For an experienced builder, do-it-yourself installation should not be a problem.

Pitfalls that plastic window manufacturers do not talk about

The tightness and high sound insulation of plastic double-glazed windows is presented as an undoubted advantage. But, unfortunately, not everything is so rosy. After all, the humidity in residential premises is constantly increasing, and thanks to leaky wooden frames provides a constant supply fresh air. Of course, too large gaps can make the house very cold, so euro-windows have long become a very popular product.

How to solve the problem with high humidity? One option is to make forced ventilation. But in the absence ventilation holes this can be problematic - you have to redo a lot.

It was for such cases that window supply valves were invented - special profiles that are installed on plastic windows. What is especially pleasing is the ease of installation. It is enough to replace part of the standard seal with a special one and fasten the valve to the window sash with several self-tapping screws. Unfortunately, the system will not work without an exhaust vent.
Another unpleasant surprise for owners of wooden houses is that companies that install plastic windows often do not guarantee their work, citing the unpredictability of wood behavior. So even with all the installation rules, you can find that after a few years the windows stopped opening. And you won't be able to sharpen the plastic with a file.

Manufacture of casing (pigtails)

The first thing that begins with the installation of windows - with the installation of casing. But is it always needed and how to do it right?

When you can do without pigtails

A new wooden house made of logs or timber will shrink in any case. And no one canceled the seasonal heaving of the soil. In this case, casing is required - it will protect the window from distortions, torsion or bends.

It is important to use only dry and durable material for casing boards - edged board 50 mm thick and edged timber 150x100 mm or 50x50 mm. The width should be equal to the thickness of the wall.

But in frame house you don’t have to make a pigtail - the frame itself is already formed for window and door openings and provides the necessary rigidity. In a log house that has stood for more than 10 years, some builders also do not mount the casing, arguing that it has already undergone shrinkage and is not deformed. But for peace of mind in your home, it is better to do it, this process is not so complicated.

How to do a squash properly

The last option is the most time-consuming, but also the most reliable. If there are doubts about your own carpentry skills, it is better to make a casing in a mortgage bar. For this:

    • In the window opening, in the middle of the beam, two vertical furrows 5x5 cm in size are selected. This can be done both with a chainsaw and with a manual circular saw, a chisel and an ax. The second option is preferable if the hand is not stuffed for precise work with a chainsaw.

    • On top of the mortgage bar is laid edged board and fixed with self-tapping screws flush - two at the top and bottom. To do this, a small recess with a diameter slightly larger than the screw head is pre-drilled.
    • If the “thorn-monolith” casing option is chosen, then the previously sawn T-shaped element is simply driven into the groove and also screwed on with self-tapping screws.
    • Vertical elements should not reach the upper edge of the opening by 8 cm - so that the top laid on them with a thickness of 5 cm is at a distance of at least 3 cm from the wall beam. This will be the shrink gap.
    • The tip should enter the grooves with little effort, and not move freely in a horizontal plane. It is also fixed with self-tapping screws screwed in at an angle.
    • The insulation is laid in the shrinkage gap and closed on the inside with a vapor barrier, and on the outside with a windproof membrane. In no case should the insulation be covered on both sides with vapor-tight films - the accumulated condensate will cause mold to form on the wood adjacent to the insulation.

And this is how the casing is done “in the deck”:

When the pigtail is ready, you can proceed directly to the installation of double-glazed windows.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

The installation of double-glazed windows is not very complicated, but it requires precise adherence to the technology. Otherwise, the window will almost certainly condense, and the frame will warp.

Checking the delivered double-glazed window

In no case should you neglect this moment! First, the dimensions of the window opening and the double-glazed window are checked. So, if the opening is 184 cm, then the window frame should be 180 cm - the gap between the side posts and the wall cannot exceed 2 cm on each side. The height of the window opening, for example, is 120 cm, then the frame itself should be 116 cm, and at the bottom there is also a support profile (clover) of 3 cm. Thus, the gap on top will turn out to be 1 cm. it needs to be left a place at the window calculation. It is needed so that the window sill can be installed from the inside, and the ebb can be screwed on the outside.

If mosquito nets are planned on the windows, it is also necessary to check the presence of fasteners. Handles are often “lost” as windows are transported without them. But pins - special fasteners, you need to select yourself.

Their length should be such that, when fully screwed in, they reach only to the middle of the casing. And that's with clearance. If the dowel is screwed into the wall of a wooden house, the window will begin to deform, regardless of the presence of a pigtail.

Often they do not pay attention to small elements - decorative overlays fittings and drainage holes. They also need to be counted. But the window sill and the ebb must be ordered - forgetting to clarify their need, you can find that the windows arrived without them. For installation, you will also need special linings for the glass itself - their presence can only be seen by disassembling the double-glazed window.

They may not be included in the kit, so it is better to order them in advance. Wedges are convenient because, thanks to their different sizes, you can set the frame evenly by simply placing a wedge of the desired thickness under the corners and racks.

Dismantling and preparation of double-glazed windows

The finished double-glazed window is brought assembled. But to install it, you have to disassemble everything to the frame. For this:

    • when closed, the upper pins holding the swinging sash are removed with a special key;
    • the window handle is inserted, the sash opens and is removed from the lower mounts;
    • glazing beads are knocked out from the inside of the window and double-glazed windows are removed - you can use a hammer and a regular knife;
    • you need to remember or designate the right and left glazing beads;
    • a protective film is removed from the outside - under the influence of the sun it will not come off after a few months;
    • external elements are mounted - mosquito net holders and decorative plugs for drainage holes;
    • holes for pins are drilled - first at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the corners of the frame, and then no more than 60-70 cm from each other;

Once the preliminary preparation is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation.

Installation of the frame and assembly of plastic windows

First, the frame is simply inserted into the window opening and temporarily fixed in it. For example, temporary jibs nailed on the outside. But it is much easier to do everything with an assistant - he just holds the frame until it is leveled and screwed to the casing. Frame installation also requires the correct sequence:

    1. The lower edge is aligned according to the level - the laser level is more convenient in this regard. Wedges of different thicknesses are placed under each rack so as to achieve a perfectly even position. Even minimal distortion will create problems during operation.
    2. Side braces are inserted to ensure the same distance from the walls. If the width of the window frame is too small and literally "falls out" of the opening, you can use a special expansion profile. This is much better than foaming the resulting huge gap.

    1. The frame is also aligned vertically. Do not forget that you need to install it in a "warm" zone - for wooden walls without external insulation, this is clearly in the middle.
    2. Once the frame is level, you can begin to mount it, starting with the side racks. First, holes are drilled in the tree through those already made in the frame, and then the dowels are baited. First, the upper and lower, with a mandatory check of the vertical, and then between them.
    3. As soon as the frame is fixed, the ebb is attached outside. Of course, this can be done as a last resort, but on the second floor it is not so easy to approach from the outside. The tide is inserted into a special groove under the frame, screwed on with two self-tapping screws along the edges, and under it the gap is filled with mounting foam.

    1. Decorative trims are put on the fasteners of the sash. The lower ones are put on the frame, the upper ones - on the sash. First, the sash is installed on the frame, and only then the handle is attached in the open state.

    1. Double-glazed windows are placed on special gaskets. Without them, the window may simply burst due to the emphasis on the metal parts in the corners of the frame.

    1. The mounting seam around the perimeter is foamed.
    2. The window sill is installed. To do this, a finished window sill is placed on the window sill, wedges are placed under it for leveling. The window sill is removed, its end and delivery profile are smeared with sealant, and the free space between the wedges is foamed. Again, the window sill is placed, pressed tightly against the profile and left until the foam hardens.

  1. In some cases, they do the opposite - first install the window sill, align it in level and screw it with dowels to the casing. And then a double-glazed window is placed on top of it. In this case, it is no longer necessary to align the frame horizontally. The only inconvenience is that the material of the window sill must withstand the action of the external environment. Of course, you can fix the ebb outside on top of the window sill and foam everything under it, thus protecting the wooden element.

Once the mounting foam has hardened, you can start finishing the windows.

Slopes for a plastic window in a wooden house

The easiest option that even girls can handle is to cover them with plastic panels. For this you will need:

  • L-shaped or starting profile - it is screwed to the wall close to the window frame;
  • decorative plastic corner- it closes the end of the panel from the side of the room and is also screwed with self-tapping screws;
  • herself plastic lining for slopes.

And you don't even need to froth anything. But to provide the necessary protection assembly seam and good insulation, it is necessary to lay insulation between the wall and the slope and cover it with a vapor barrier. From the outside, the seam is closed with a windproof film - waterproofing with good vapor permeability.

And in order for the windows to please with warmth and comfort, it is very important to protect the mounting foam from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, as well as from being taken away by birds. You do not need to restrain your soul's impulses if you want to start doing something with your own hands. And everything will definitely work out!

Reading time ≈ 12 minutes

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is currently very popular - it is affordable, holds heat well and does not lose geometric parameters. Against the backdrop of a rise in energy prices, such materials are almost a panacea, so many people are interested in installing a plastic window in a wooden house with their own hands. In the article, in addition to installation instructions, you will find photo and video materials that will help you cope with the task.

Log house with an attic in the process of glazing with PVC windows

Choice of plastic windows

In order to choose a good plastic window that is right for your case, you will have to pay attention to several parameters. Do not neglect these indicators so that during operation you will not have any complaints about the manufacturer or even force majeure.

Features of double-glazed windows

Single-chamber (left) and triple-chamber (right) double-glazed window

The production of double-glazed windows means not only different technologies manufacturing, but also different glass - this directly affects their performance. Below you will see what they are:

  1. The usual option with float glass. Such glass has high light transparency and is devoid of any shortcomings.
  2. Multifunctional double-glazed windows. It has protection against ultraviolet radiation (exposure to sunlight), has a low heat transfer capacity. These features directly affect the maintenance of the microclimate in the room - they do not let in the cold in winter, and the heat in summer.
  3. Self-cleaning designs. Such double-glazed windows help to significantly save time on cleaning, since the windows do not have to be washed from the outside. The special composition with which the glass is coated, when exposed to ultraviolet (sunlight), destroys the dirt that the first rain will wash away. Leaks and stains do not remain.
  4. Soundproof options. In this case, thickened glasses and a scientific approach to the distance between them are used. Thanks to the high-quality profile, seal and glazing bead, vibration, as such, is completely eliminated. Such windows do not absorb, but reflect airborne noise, which affects densely populated and industrial areas, as well as houses located near railways and airfields.
  5. Reflective glazing. They are also called specular because they are shiny and reflective with a reflectance of about 4%. Such options are ideal for hot climatic conditions - they do not allow heat to pass through, they do not heat up themselves, but at the same time they freely transmit photons (light).
  6. Colored glass panes. Such glasses soften bright light and poorly transmit heat, although transparency does not suffer from this. Properties (retention of light and heat) change with the hues.
  7. Tinted windows. They have the same characteristics as colored ones, but at the same time, no coloring pigments are used in the composition. The shade changes due to the gluing of a special film.
  8. Energy saving options with k-glass. This is an ordinary float glass, on which a k-coating (a thin metal film) is applied by the pyrolysis method during its manufacture (in a hot state). This significantly reduces thermal conductivity and increases mechanical strength (glass is placed on the outside).
  9. Energy saving options with i-glass. It has a reduced thermal conductivity inherent in k-glass. But the i-coating is a thin layer of silver and the glass can easily be deformed, so it is installed inside a double-glazed window.
  10. Constructions from smart glasses. These are, as it were, “living” windows that change their parameters (transparency and thermal conductivity) when they change from the outside. This category includes energy-saving and self-cleaning windows.
  11. Triplex glass. It is a multilayer sheet, where a transparent polymer is in the interlayer. This factor does not reduce translucency, but fire resistance and mechanical strength increase (this does not affect thermal conductivity and sound insulation). If such glass is broken, it will not shatter into small fragments, but will be held on the polymer.

Note. Double-glazed windows are also distinguished by the number of chambers. For regions with a temperate climate, one- and two-chamber packages are popular, in cold zones - three-chamber packages.


Video: Insulating glass formula determines the choice

Plastic profile

Five-chamber profile made of metal-plastic

The functionality of the PVC profile for windows can be determined by six parameters, including:

  • number of cameras. According to the building standard, 3, 4 and 5-chamber PVC profiles are produced. In this case, the thickness of the first two options is 60 mm, and the third - 70 mm.
  • The width of the outer wall can be of three classes:
  1. A - 3 mm ± 0.2 mm;
  2. B - 2.7 mm ± 0.2 mm;
  3. C - 2.5 mm ± 0.2 mm.
  • Reinforcing or guiding profile. It determines the rigidity of the frame and its service life. When installing a plastic window in a wooden house, pay attention to its cross section - it should be a galvanized square with a wall of at least 1.2 mm. L-shaped perforated or ferrous metal, especially of smaller thickness, indicates poor quality.
  • Rubber seals. High-quality seals are made of rubber and have a guarantee from the manufacturer for at least 10 years. But if at least once a year the inserts are lubricated with special silicone, then the service life will double.
  • A high-quality PVC profile does not fade in the sun, does not turn yellow and does not emit a smell, but this depends on its composition:
  1. TiO2 is titanium dioxide. An effective white dye, which is practically absent in budget profiles.
  2. Chalk - its allowable rate in cheap profiles is limited to 6%, but unscrupulous manufacturers exceed this parameter by 2-3 times. From this, the plastic burns out, turns yellow, and there is no perfectly smooth surface.
  • The manufacturer largely determines the quality. So, Chinese windows are much cheaper, but they will not last long. In the countries of the European Union and in Russia, a law has been introduced on laser marker marks, which are applied every 30-50 cm from the end side. It displays the date of manufacture and the country of origin. If such a marking is present, then there is no doubt about the quality of PVC, reinforcement and seals - they will comply with GOST and SNiP.

PVC window installation process

Below you will find step-by-step instructions for installing plastic windows in a wooden house. This is not difficult, but it will require the presence of certain carpentry tools - I will not write them out separately and you will learn about them in the process of reading.

Removing old windows

Removing old windows

I offer special instructions for dismantling old windows from the opening so as not to damage those elements that will remain in operation. But this applies only to old houses, where there are already window openings with a pigtail and they meet your needs - this item is irrelevant in a new building.

First of all, all glass should be removed - for this, the glazing bead and all the carnations that did not come out during the elimination of this profile are removed. Sometimes the studs are invisible, so to make sure they are present or not, run a knife or screwdriver at the installation site of the glazing beads, slightly resting on the glass. If the fixing material remains there, then the blade will definitely stumble on it, and then, as they say, it’s a matter of technology.

In some cases, in order to clog windows to the maximum and get rid of drafts, the glass is glued to the frame with silicone or silicone sealant. In such situations, all attempts to pick up the glass with a knife to tear it off the frame are doomed to failure. There is only one way out - to break the glass, but it can shatter and injure you. To avoid this, a wet newspaper is glued to the glass and broken - all the fragments will fall nearby and not scatter.

The frame is held on by nails, which are also very difficult to pull out - it is much easier to cut vertical frame profiles with a hacksaw, as shown in the top photo. After that, pick up a part of the cut vertical with a nail puller and tear it off. Perform a similar operation on the opposite side, and then tear off the diameters with a nail puller. The opening is ready and you can insert a plastic window.

Window casing in a wooden house

So they make a groove for the casing spike in the mortgage bar

First of all, window openings should be cut out and there are two options here. If the plastic windows are already ready, then, of course, you will have to focus on their sizes, but this is more an exception than a rule. Usually, first of all, window (door) openings are cut out and only after that they measure the windows or invite a representative of the company where the windows will be made (this is a free service).

Casing in a mortgage bar (left) and in a deck (right)

To begin with, let's look at the features of the installation of casing (pigtails). Casing into a deck clearly implies cutting a stud along the verticals of the opening, and in the box making a groove for this stud, as shown in the image at the top right. But we will focus on a pigtail with a mortgage bar - it is more popular.

With a mortgage bar, more options. The groove is cut out in the opening according to the size of the bar (usually it is 50 × 50 mm) and the bar is driven into it without nailing it, and a distance of 3 cm is left at the top to shrink the house. But sometimes they make the so-called stud-monolith, this is when the stud is one piece with the vertical of the casing. In both cases, when the wall shrinks, logs or beams will simply slide along the spike without deforming the window frame.

On both sides of the inserted bar, a jute or felt tape is nailed with a stapler - this is necessary for sealing and. Now you can screw a draft box to the bar, which is most often assembled from a 50 × 100 mm pine board. In this case, it is best to use wood screws with a length of 75 mm - they are guaranteed not to pass through the bar and will not reach the edge of the opening. If this happens, then a log or beam may hang on the screw, which will lead to the formation of a gap between the logs.

Now the upper and lower crossbars are inserted, but if it is placed below between the vertical boards, then it is placed on top of them. The gap left should be 3 cm, which means that the distance from the end of the vertical to the top of the opening is 8 cm, that is, the jumper, having a 5-centimeter thickness, after installation will leave 3 cm of free space. The boards of the draft box are best fastened together with metal corners. Now we are talking about installing a plastic window in a wooden house with our own hands, so below you can watch a video on how a pigtail is made.

Important! The use of mounting foam in this case is unacceptable! The foam will glue the box to the opening, which will prevent the logs from sliding freely along the bar during shrinkage.


Video: Okosyachka or casing of the opening - protection against shrinkage of the building

Installation of PVC window sill

PVC window sill

After installing the draft frame (casing), you can proceed with the installation of the window sill - this is the first step to assemble the window within the opening. The fact is that the window sill is not adjacent to transverse profile on the side, but the frame is placed on top - there is a special recess there. But for strength on the sides of the box, you should make a cut of 5-8 mm and insert the window sill there - this way it will hold much better. Use to level the horizontal level. plastic plates, as coasters (mention about them when ordering a window if you insert it yourself).

Self-tapping screws with a press washer

Window element must be attached to the bottom window opening self-tapping screws, stepping back from the edge plastic panel 20-25 mm, and subsequently the heads will be covered with a frame profile. To prevent the screw head from pushing through the plastic, you need a version with a press washer without a rubber gasket, as in the top photo.

Installing a plastic window in a wooden house

PVC frames are always pasted over with a protective film, but according to the installation technology, it is removed only when the window is finally inserted - this protects the plastic from scratches and dirt. To prevent the sashes from opening (this interferes with installation), screw the window handles and put them in the “closed” position (vertically down).

On vertical and horizontal window profiles, holes are drilled on the installation line of the double-glazed window with a diameter of 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fixing screw. Most often, the screw is 5 mm, and the hole is made 6 mm. The hats must be recessed into the plastic, so with a 10 mm drill they make a hole deep to the metal profile. Three holes are needed on the sides, and two at the top and bottom, indented from the corner by 50-60 mm.

At the bottom, the frame is placed directly on the windowsill, but at the top and sides there should be a gap of about 10 mm or a little less. Therefore, to screw the frame evenly, use wooden spacers (they are easy to make yourself). When everything is screwed on, check the vertical and horizontal levels, as well as the opening-closing function of the valves, so that there is no skew.

If the sash closes normally (there is no friction anywhere, and there is a tight fit), then close the window and insert double-glazed windows. It is unlikely that it will be possible to press the glazing bead with your hands, therefore, in order for this profile to fit tightly into the mounting groove, it is finished off with a rubber hammer. Now it remains to blow out the gap between the frame and the draft box with mounting foam, and it will be possible to open the sash the very next day (a precautionary measure against distorting the profile). It remains to make slopes inside and out, as well as install trim, but this is after the final shrinkage of the house.

Conclusion

In fact, the installation of a plastic window in a wooden house, except for the device and installation of the casing, is done in the same way as in a brick, block or monolithic building. But care is needed in any case, so try to remember all your actions and, if necessary, read the article again. You can also print the installation process on a printer and keep it in your pocket while you work, to use when needed.

Greetings dear readers!

I decided to replace the old windows in a wooden house on my own. This is not at all easy, so before that I reviewed a bunch of sites and forums, talked with friends who performed the installation. And he singled out for himself the basic rules in the installation.

First you need to take measurements of windows in order to know the exact dimensions and order the window correctly.

Next, you need to dismantle the old windows. Then he prepares the installation site of the window, for this you need to remove the dust and debris accumulated during dismantling. Next, we install the window sill and prepare the plastic window for installation. Then install the window itself.

At first it seems very simple, but there are little nuances, given that you can easily do it. I want to tell you more about the installation later in this article.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows in a wooden house. Installation technology. Instruction, photo

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows into the prepared pigtail of a wooden house, like other construction and installation works, is carried out using a building level and a plumb line.

It is very important that the plastic windows in the house are strictly level, otherwise an open, for example, window sash will close itself or, on the contrary, open under its own weight. Thus, the technology of installing plastic windows in the pigtail of a wooden house includes setting it in terms of level and plumb before fixing the window.

Here is our, developed by our own experience, instructions for installing plastic windows in a log house.

First, I would like to note one point that you will need to remember when buying plastic windows: When you buy windows, it would be good to immediately buy mounting brackets for them, ideally 6 pieces per window.

These are iron plates (see photo) which, with the help of little effort, are fixed in special technical slides on the sides of the window frame. Thus, the frame is attached to the pigtail using self-tapping screws through these mounting fasteners.

During installation, many plastic window installers fix the window by drilling through the frame, but this is a violation of technology, and the tightness of special air chambers in the plastic window profile is thus violated, so this is not our method.

Plastic windows in a wooden house are generally a very capricious thing, but if observed right technology installation, then such windows in your house will last a long time without upsetting their owners with all sorts of distortions and other problems.

In order to prevent the installation of windows with your own hands from becoming a torment, we advise you to remove the window sashes from the window frame. To remove them, you need to pull the pins out of the loops. Without window sashes, the frame weighs a little, and it will be much more convenient to tilt it, which will greatly facilitate the installation of windows.

The instructions for installing plastic windows in a prepared pigtail of a wooden house are as follows:

Align the window. We put the window on the lower part of the opening on chips about 2 cm thick and adjust it horizontally in level. For setting a horizontal level, the best tool, in our opinion, is a water level.

You can't deceive water, it always levels off with the horizon.

Thus, setting the window exactly at the horizon level, placing chips of the required thickness under the frame for this, it will leave about a two-centimeter gap below for foaming with mounting foam, we proceed to setting the vertical level so that the window sashes do not live their lives.

How the vertical level is set when installing a plastic, and indeed any other window, I think it’s not worth explaining in detail, everything is clearly visible in the photo.

After we put the window on the level, we fasten it to the pigtail with self-tapping screws through the above-mentioned mounting fasteners.

There is one technological point here - do not hit the crest of the log on which the pigtail sits with a self-tapping screw.

It is better to screw in the self-tapping screw a little obliquely than to deprive the design of the pigtail of independence from the log house in terms of the free movement of the gun carriages along the ridges of the logs.

The next step in our instructions for installing plastic windows in a wooden house is to fix the window sashes. It is necessary to hang the sashes on the window before foaming, but if you foam the frame without sashes, the mounting foam can slightly bend the frame, and the sashes will close / open poorly.

Thus, if the technology is correctly followed and the installation of the pigtail and the plastic window is evenly done, your window should stand in such a way that distances of about 2 cm for mounting foam remain on all sides from the frame to the pigtail.

And above the upper part of the pigtail there will be a gap of 5-10 cm to the log for shrinkage of the log house, so that when it dries completely, the upper logs do not press on the windows.

Window foaming. Control check - On the already fixed, but not yet foamed window, with the shutters inserted, open the window and look.

If the half-open sash of a plastic window does not try to open further or, on the contrary, close, then our window is installed correctly and you can foam the frame with mounting foam.

Here we have such a technology for installing plastic windows with our own hands. We hope you find it useful in the construction of your wooden house! Happy building!

http://dachaclub.rf/

How to install plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands

In our wooden house, we decided to replace the old wooden windows with modern plastic ones. This article discusses in detail the installation of double-glazed windows with your own hands in a wooden house. The article is based on personal experience. Why is it profitable to install windows yourself:

When installing double-glazed windows in a wooden house by a supplier or manufacturer, the cost of a window along with installation will cost 40-50% more than its original cost.

As a rule, about 95% of companies that install windows do not guarantee the quality of installation in a wooden house. Therefore, when you install plastic windows in a wooden house yourself, you do not lose warranty period operation, but only save yourself for the good.

The installation of windows is shown on the example of self-installation of double-glazed windows, without the help of strangers, which takes an average of two and a half hours (for one window). Further, the process of inserting a plastic window into the window opening of a wooden house is described step by step.

Removing old windows

Self-installation of double-glazed windows in a wooden house is carried out on a solid foundation (frame). Since in our example the window boxes were installed quite recently (about 5 years ago) and were without damage (cracks, chips, putrefactive formations and wormholes), we decided to use them instead of the frame for installing new windows.

Old window frames that are in good condition and have sufficient strength can be reused, for example, to install a greenhouse.

Therefore, in order not to damage the frame tree, their dismantling must be carried out carefully, and before that it does not hurt to remove the glass from them. In our case, we did not pull out the glass from the frame, since the strong frames did not warp when they were removed and were dismantled quite easily.

Preparation of a place for the installation of double-glazed windows

With a dry and clean cloth (or soft brush), you need to wipe the window frame, remove the waste and debris accumulated after dismantling.

The PVC window sill is mounted first, as it is the base of the double-glazed window when it is installed. In this regard, the window sill should be installed as evenly as possible (ideally horizontally). We check the exact horizontal position of the window sill with a level both in the longitudinal and transverse positions.

To make the window sill stand firmly, we make cuts up to a depth of 8 mm on the sides of the window frame. To adjust the evenness of the window sill, we use special plates made of plastic or fiberboard, or thin wooden planks treated in advance with an antiseptic. After final installation window sill we measure the evenness of the window sill with a building level.

We fasten the window sill on self-tapping screws to the bottom of the window frame, while indenting from the outer end of the window sill by 2 cm. PVC window sill has cavities). After the window is fully installed, the window sill attachment points will not be visible, as they will be hidden from the eye.

Preparing a plastic window for installation

At the very beginning, even before you start installing the window, you need to install the handle. It is not yet necessary to remove the entire protective film from the window surface, as it protects the window from possible mechanical damage.

Note!

The protective film can only be removed where the handles need to be installed. Handles of the handle at their installation should be in horizontal position.

This position means that the window opens on its side, while if the handle is turned down, the window will be locked in the closed state, if the handle is turned up, the window will open in the cranking mode.

We fix the handle to the window with two bolts, move the handle handle down. On the side pillars of the window (at the ends), we make markings for making holes on which the window will be fixed to the block.

Next, we drill with an electric drill according to this marking, two through holes (lower and upper) in the right rack of the double-glazed window and in the bottom rack (in total - 4 holes). Distance between bottom and upper parts the glass unit to the hole should be from 25 to 35 cm. The diameter of the drill for this work should be 6 mm, while the diameter of the self-tapping screw is 5 mm.

In order for the screw head to firmly rest against the window frame, we drill holes on the side posts from the inside for fastening with a drill with a large diameter - 10 mm, up to the metal frame itself. The hole should be such that the head of the self-tapping screw freely passes into the cavity of the window pillar.

window installation

We install the assembled window in the window opening. The center is controlled by measurements taken with a tape measure starting from the edge of the window and ending with the surface of the window frame on both sides, the distance should be the same (about 1 cm each).

We install the window on the surface of the previously installed window sill. Since we have already checked the window sill for evenness using the building level, there is no need to control the window itself for horizontality.

To install a window parallel to the wall of the house, we install a building level between the wall and the siding to stop. If the house was sheathed by another finishing material for example, a clapboard that fits snugly against the wall and does not allow you to place a level, then you need to use a plumb line for control.

We install a spacer bar 1 cm wide between the window frame and the window. It is necessary that this bar enters between the window frame and the window tightly enough. This bar is needed as a stop at the moment when the window is fixed in the window opening using self-tapping screws.

If this is not done, then the window, when it is fixed, may go to the side (it will simply be taken away) and the mechanism for opening and closing the window will not function well, or the window sash will not open at all.

When the installation of the stop bars is completed, and the window is leveled or aligned parallel to the wall of the house, then we fix the double-glazed window on the self-tapping screws. We fix the window to the window frame from below and above its side posts, so that the self-tapping screw is in the free space between the frame and the window.

Such fastening is not only reliable, but also provides a floating effect. If there will be seasonal shifts in the structure of the house, distorting window openings, then windows that do not have a rigid binding to the frame are almost not subject to distortion, due to the fact that the self-tapping screw can arbitrarily move towards the window frame skew.

Installation of double-glazed windows in a wooden house

First, we install adjusting plates between the drain holes. This is necessary so that the double-glazed windows do not close the holes through which condensate is drained from the window.

Carefully install a double-glazed window in the window opening. We make sure that it does not fit tightly between the racks of the window, since if seasonal changes occur and, accordingly, distortions of the window frame, the glass may burst.

Note!

If your double-glazed window entry is tight, and there is no gap between the window pillars and the double-glazed window (at least 5 mm), then you should contact the company that made windows for you for your order for an explanation, so that the company's employees eliminate this shortcoming. It is necessary to check the gaps between the frame and the double-glazed window even before removing the old window.

We install the double-glazed window evenly and fix it with plastic glazing beads, which have profile spikes that are inserted into the grooves of the window frame with with the help of a lung tapping on the glazing beads, in which the spike passes into the groove and a click is heard. A click indicates that the bead is securely fastened.

After the window is installed, we fill the void between the window frame and the window with mounting foam, both from the inside and outside of the house. Excess hardened mounting foam is cut off with a sharp knife.

After that, you can start finishing with platbands, fittings and drainage.

source: http://stroykaportal.ru/

How to install plastic windows in a wooden house

The relevance of the question: “How to install plastic windows in a wooden house” (and not only plastic ones), lies in the fact that wooden houses are very unstable. Moreover, unlike a stone or reinforced concrete house, this instability manifests itself throughout the entire service life of a wooden house.

If these factors are not taken into account when installing plastic windows or doors in a wooden house, very unpleasant (to put it mildly) problems can arise!

What is the peculiarity of a wooden house? And the fact that the tree tends to "shrink", especially in the first years after construction. Those who claim that the log house shrinks a year after its installation are mistaken.

Yes, the most noticeable shrinkage occurs in the first year, but the process continues for at least 5 years, and in some climatic zones - for a lifetime! As the logs or beams dry out, the height of the wall can decrease to 1.5 cm per meter of masonry. This means that the height of the wall can “shrink” up to 6 cm.

And now imagine what will happen to a plastic window if, as always, you left a gap of 2 - 2.5 cm for foam ?! So, installing plastic windows in a wooden house is generally unrealistic? Quite the opposite!

But only if a special structure, called a pigtail or casing, is installed in the opening.

The purpose of this design is to give windows (and not only plastic ones) complete independence from bearing walls at home, to exclude even the slightest load on the window during shrinkage or curvature of the walls:

  1. The casing prevents the logs from moving from the vertical in the window opening.
  2. Does not interfere with vertical shrinkage.
  3. Takes all the load.
  4. Strengthens the wall of the house in the opening area.

Let's take a look at this system in detail. The simplest casing option is when a vertical groove of 50x50 mm is cut at the ends of the opening logs and a bar of the same size is inserted into it.

But this method of braiding is ONLY suitable for wooden windows. Therefore, we will not dwell on it. A more reliable option for casing is when a comb is made at the ends of the logs, and a window carriage with a groove is put on it.

Now the logs during shrinkage (due to the ridge) will slide inside the groove without deviating from the vertical and without pressing down the window.

It happens that the groove is made in logs, and the spike on the gun carriage, the main meaning, I think is clear.

Window carriages are vertical bars 150x100 mm, at the ends of which 50x50 cutouts are made for inserting horizontal lintels - boards 150x50 mm with spikes at the ends.

The assembled casing is made smaller than the window opening by 7-8 cm in height. This gap is left in the calculation for the shrinkage of the wall. When assembling the pigtails in the opening, we cover the ridges with rolled tow and fill the gun carriages on it. This will save us from squeaks during shrinkage and insulate the opening.

Note!

Further, the procedure is as follows - we lay the lower jumper, stuff the gun carriages on the comb with tow, we wind up into the upper gap and lower the upper jumper into the grooves. We fasten the entire structure with self-tapping screws, trying not to capture the ridge, otherwise the whole point of installing the casing will be lost. In the gap between the pigtail and the logs, we also hammer in the tow.

And now you can insert plastic windows into a wooden house without fear for the consequences. We make installation in compliance with all technology: steam - noise - moisture protection. The gap between the casing and the frame is filled with thin boards wrapped in tow.

As the house shrinks, they have to be knocked out and replaced with others. To do this, the upper trim (attached only to the casing) is carefully removed and, after replacing the filling, is put in place.

At seminars, I was often asked the question, why does a window fitter need to know the technology of building a wooden house. And then, so that you can determine whether it is possible to install a window in this opening.

And, if necessary, equip it with a classic casing. Of course for a fee. There have been cases like this in my experience.

Now like this important point. You insert a plastic window into a wooden house where there are wooden windows. They removed the platbands for accurate measurement, but there is no casing. That is, the box of the old window plays the role of a pigtail.

This is where the choice has to be made (by the owner, but with your help): to remake the window opening for casing or to significantly reduce the size of the future window. After all, on each side you need to add the thickness of the casing + window frame + gap for foam. And what will be left there?

And in conclusion, I want to warn:

Helpful advice!

In no case do not agree to the installation of windows without casing in the opening. Even if the owner proves that the house is 300 years old and "all the shrinkage has already settled down." The tree "breathes" all its life with all the consequences, as they say.

Well, in the most extreme case, you can give in to the client, under his responsibility. But do not forget to put a dash in the contract in the column "Guarantee" !!!

All the same, the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house requires very serious attention.