How to install a plastic window yourself. How to install plastic windows correctly? Installing a plastic window on the plates on your own

Not so long ago, metal-plastic windows were considered a kind of "elite" element of a house or apartment, accessible to very few wealthy owners. Today the situation has changed - these window systems have become less expensive and have become widely used by almost all average families. They significantly outperform wooden ones both in terms of the degree of insulation, and in terms of sound insulation, and on by fitting all the elements, which becomes a reliable barrier to drafts and street dust. And just outwardly, such windows are very nice and easily fit into any design of the house and its premises.

In a word, both during the construction of new housing and during repairs, the issue is almost always unambiguously resolved in favor of installing just such. There are a great many companies, large and small, involved in their assembly at the present time in almost all regions of the country. Large companies immediately include their installation in the price of their windows - with large volumes of production, they can afford it. But you can often meet small private enterprises that require a separate fee for installation - and this is about 2.5 ÷ 3.0 thousand rubles at the present time. It is clear that the thought immediately arises - is it so difficult to install a plastic window with your own hands? Is it possible to save on this by carrying out an independent installation?

It turns out that this is quite doable. The main thing is to understand the process technology well and immediately prepare the necessary expendable materials. And, of course, during installation, exercise increased accuracy, strictly follow the installation instructions.

The main stages of installing a plastic window

Must be carried out in a clear sequence. This technology has already withstood the “test of time”, and it will not be advisable to make adjustments to it at your own discretion.

• First of all, the necessary measurements are carried out, an order is made for the window structure.
• After the window is manufactured and delivered, the old frames are dismantled, the opening is cleaned, and it is adjusted - if necessary.
• The next step is preparing the new window for installation. It may vary - depending on the chosen method of installing the window, which will be discussed below.
• The most important step is the correct installation of the window in the opening, its vertical and horizontal alignment, leaving the required gaps, and fastening to the walls.
• Next, there is a sealing of the seams between the frame and the opening, providing hydro- and vapor barrier.
• The next step is to install a low tide outside and a window sill inside the room.
• The final adjustment of the window mechanisms is carried out, the installation of the necessary fittings.
• When the room will be finished, window slopes are installed.

Now about the main stages - with all the details.

Two main ways of fixing plastic windows

Before undertaking independent work, you need to understand a little theory.

• Firstly, one should not be taken for window installation by someone who does not quite accurately represent his device. First, let's look at the window from the outside:

1 – Window frame assembled from PVC profile.

2 – Openable window sash, also made of a special profile. It can open in several planes, for example, be tilt-and-turn. It is suspended from the frame by means of special fittings, which allow precise adjustment of the sash position.

3 – The central post is an impost dividing the common plane of the entire window into two or more parts. The material of manufacture is the same frame profile.

4 – Installed in the opening sash or directly into the frame profile (with the "deaf" part of the window) double glazing. It can be single-chamber (two panes) or two-chamber (3 panes).

5 - Fittings. In this case, the handle of the opening sash is shown.

6 - PVC window sill, which is usually ordered, purchased and installed at the same time as the window itself.

Now let's look at the same window in a section (for convenience, continuous numbering is used, that is, if the positions coincide with the top figure, their numbers are saved):

- The frame profile (pos. 1) has several air chambers (usually from 3 to 5 ÷ 6) - the more there are, the higher the thermal insulation qualities of the window system. Profiles are counted along a horizontal line in the direction from the street to the room. In this case, the figure shows a three-chamber profile.

— Inside the profile there is a reinforcing metal profile (pos. 7). This element etc idae t t the required rigidity of the frame structure.

- The sash profile is arranged in approximately the same way (pos. 2). The number of chambers is usually the same as on the frame; a reinforcing metal element is also placed inside (pos. 8)

- A double-glazed window in the frame or in the window sash is held with glazing beads (pos. 9).

- The diagram additionally shows the installation of a PVC panel window slope. Pos . 10 - starting profile, pos. eleven - PVC panel, pos . 12 - also made of PVC.

Of course, windows from different manufacturers may have their own characteristics, the shape of the cross-section of profiles and reinforcement, the number of air chambers, the design of the double-glazed window, but still typical scheme remains the same.

More details about, and how to choose the right model for it, are described in a special publication of our portal.

• Secondly, you need to decide on the method of fastening the window in the opening. In practice, two main approaches are used - installation directly through the frame with dowels or anchors, or installation using brackets (anchor plates) previously fixed to the window.

BUT. In the first case (in the figure - on the left), the frame is drilled through, and a hole is made in the wall coaxially with the hole in it. The fastener is inserted through the frame, tightened, and its head will then be hidden by the installed double-glazed window or covered sash.

Advantages of this method:

• The window in the opening is set much more accurately.
• The fixing strength of the entire window system is higher, so this approach is the only possible one when large sizes windows (2000 mm or more on either side), or where high external loads are expected (especially windy places, high number of storeys, etc.)

Disadvantages:

• The window requires mandatory disassembly - removal of glazing beads and double-glazed windows, opening sashes. For the inexperienced master it's an extra problem, since when dismantling the glazing beads it is easy to scratch or even bend, and the removed double-glazed window requires especially careful handling. For the need for disassembly, this method is often called installation with unpacking the window.
• Violation of the integrity of the profile (drilling it through) reduces its thermal insulation qualities, and under certain conditions can provoke.
• This installation takes longer.

B. Installation on anchor plates or other brackets fixed on the end part of the PVC window frame. After placing the window in the desired position in the opening, these platinums are fastened with dowels or anchors to the wall (schematically shown in the upper figure on the right). The window sill and further finishing of the slopes will hide them from sight.

Advantages:

• Such installation is easier and faster, especially if regular anchor plates are used, which fit snugly into the grooves intended for them on the end of the profile.

• The integrity of the profile is not violated - there is no need to drill through it.
• There is no mandatory need to disassemble the window - you can install it in a mounted form. (Because of this, this method is sometimes referred to as "without unpacking"). True, this advantage can be called very conditional, for several reasons at once. Firstly, windows are most often delivered unassembled from the manufacturer. Secondly, it is very difficult and dangerous to mount a window assembly with double-glazed windows installed, especially on a high floor, due to its large mass. And thirdly, filling the remaining gaps from the outside, providing external waterproofing and installing a low tide is still more convenient to carry out with completely removed double-glazed windows.

Flaw, in principle, one that has already been mentioned - in terms of the strength of the installation, in terms of the resistance of a large window to weight and wind loads, this method is significantly inferior.

Taking measurements

Immediately it is appropriate to make one very important remark. The owners of the apartment, one way or another, will have to contact the company that manufactures windows to place an order. The best situation would be when a representative of the manufacturer comes and independently takes all the necessary measurements. Firstly, a specialist in this matter has much more experience, and the probability of error will be minimal. Measurers, as a rule, are already familiar with all typical buildings, and it is much easier for them to deal with the nuances of window openings. And secondly, if it suddenly happens that the manufactured window for some reason suddenly does not correspond to the opening, then all responsibility will fall on the employees of the company, and the customer will have the right to demand the manufacture of the correct window structure.

Measurements are most often a free service.

Very often, in serious companies, the measurement of the opening is included in the cost of the order and is not paid additionally, so there is no need to fool yourself.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to carry out measurements on your own, then you should first understand the configuration of the window opening.

• AT panel high-rise buildings most often there are openings with a quarter - a monolithic side on both sides and on top of the opening, forming such way the outer slope of the window (in the figure - on the left).
• In brick houses, there is usually no quarter - the opening is formed by straight planes perpendicular to the wall (in the figure - on the right).

Measurements of different openings have their own characteristics.

Measurement of a window opening with a quarter

When measuring a window with a quarter, it is taken into account that on both vertical sides and from above the window frame should be a quarter by 15 ÷ 25 mm, and at the same time there must still be a gap to fill it with mounting foam.

So the measurement is done like this:

• Outside, in several places (top, center, bottom), the distance is measured strictly horizontally BUT between opposite slopes. Given that the window should go on them by 15 ÷ 25 mm, 30 ÷ 50 mm are added to the resulting distance. In this way, the required window width is preliminarily obtained.

Now measurements are taken inside. The width of the opening is determined With at its widest point, at the level of the wall (also horizontally in several places - for control). Not to be confused with magnitude AT, which shows the distance between the slopes at the frame itself - this indicator in this case has no determining value.

Now you can compare the previously obtained width of the required window with the width of the opening. On each side, at least 20 mm must remain on the sides for sealing with mounting foam. It is possible to correct the ordered width, as there is a certain range of window setting by a quarter.

• Now about the height of the window. The entry of the frame to the upper quarter remains the same. lower quarter, usually, it does not happen in the openings, since a window sill and an external ebb are installed here. For their installation, it is necessary to additionally use an installation profile under the window frame. Most often, manufacturers mount it even in the process of fulfilling an order, but it never hurts to check.

An important structural element is a substitution profile

So, how to correctly measure and calculate the height of the window:

Measurements are taken from the outside - from the upper quarter to the point where the tide located at an angle (if it is standing) touches the outer corner of the opening ( F).

To this value is added 15 ÷ 25 mm - this is the entry of the frame into the upper quarter. Now you need to subtract 30 mm - this is the height of the installation profile. Under it, there should also be a gap for sealing - from 5 to 20 mm. They are also subtracted from the resulting value. The result should be the required height of the window.

For control, measurements are made inside - from the top point of the opening to the window sill ( E), and then you need to try to measure the distance from top the surface of the window sill to the “bare” opening (sometimes it makes sense for me to remove the window sill altogether, since it will change soon anyway). The resulting opening height will allow you to check the correctness of the calculations - window height + substitution profile + not less 20 mm from above and 5 ÷ 20 mm from below for sealing with polyurethane foam.

Note - if it is not planned to install a substitution profile (which in itself is already a serious drawback), then the gap between the frame and the opening from below is left not less than 40 mm.

You can immediately take measurements to order a window sill, low tide and slopes.

• The length of the ebb is equal to the distance between the quarters (A) plus 50 mm. Width - the distance from the window to the edge of the opening plus 20 ÷ 30 mm.

• The length of the window sill - the maximum width of the opening ( With) plus 50 mm. The width is usually standardized and the most suitable option for specific conditions is selected, taking into account the distance from the frame to the corner between the opening and the inner wall, plus the desired distance of the window sill to the outside (usually another 30 ÷ 50 mm).

Measurement of a direct opening, without a quarter.

With a simple straight opening, measurements and calculations will be much easier.

Measuring for a direct opening - much easier

The opening is measured vertically and horizontally at several points, in the widest places (in the diagram - a).

• The width of the window will thus be equal to this distance minus two mounting gaps. With. We take it, as before, for 20 mm, that is, in the end we subtract 40 mm.
• The height of the window is determined by the difference between the height of the opening, the mounting gap from above (20 mm) and the thickness of the mounting profile (30 mm) and 10 mm of the gap below it. If the profile is not installed, then the mounting clearance from below is 40 mm. In total, 60 mm is subtracted from the total height of the opening.

Otherwise, the measurements remain the same as with a window with a quarter.

If the measurements are done, you can go to place an order. But one more time not superfluous will repeat - it’s better to call the measurer to the house so that he takes into account all possible nuances, for example, a slight skew of the opening, which arose due to the shrinkage of the building.

Preparing Instruments and Consumables

While the window is being made, it makes sense to start preparing for further work. It is necessary to prepare the tool and consumables for installation.

Of the tools and materials you will need:

	Perforator with a set of drills (6, 8 and 10 mm) and a chisel-blade		Screwdriver with bit set
	Drill 10.2 mm for metal		Screwdriver Set
	Roulette		Building level, better than 300 mm long
	Construction knife		Marking pencil
	Rubber or special plastic hammer for PVC windows		Spatula, width 50 ÷ 60 mm
	Hacksaw for cutting PVC		Wood saw
	Anchor plates - if the method of fastening "without unpacking" or combined is used		Drive-in dowel nails, Ø6 mm - for anchor plates or Ø10 mm - when fastening through the frame.
	Metal frame dowels (anchors) Ø 10 mm		Self-tapping screws 4×16 and 4×25
	Pre-Compressed Self-Expanding Sealing Tape (PSUL)		Thermo-vapor barrier tape PPE, best of all - foil
	Vapor Permeable Diffusion Tape		Mounting foam and a gun for its application
	Silicone sealant - a small tube should suffice.		Wedges for window alignment. You can use specialized plastic ones or limit yourself to wooden ones.

The table needs clarification:

I.Primarily, we deal with the number of points for fastening. It depends on the size and design of the window. There are certain standards that ensure reliable fixation of the window system. Below is a diagram of the approximate placement of points for fastening. Three of the most common options - a window with an impost, a completely blind window and a balcony block.

In all three cases, there are three main quantities, BUT, AT and With.

BUT– distance from inner corner window frame to the fixing points. Be sure to put two points from the corner, both vertically and horizontally. The value A is taken equal to from 150 to 180 mm.

AT- the maximum distance between adjacent points on one side of the frame. It is taken equal to:

- for "white" PVC windows - no more than 700 mm.

- for windows made of colored PVC profiles - 600 mm.

With- the distance from the impost to the attachment point towards the larger sash (if two wide sashes are the same, then it is better to install fasteners on both sides). The value of this distance is from 120 to 180 mm.

Having such a scheme in front of your eyes and knowing the linear dimensions of the ordered window, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fasteners. It is advisable to even immediately sketch out a scheme for arranging points for fasteners - this will be a good help when carrying out work.

II. What type of fasteners will be needed? It depends on the wall material and on the method of fixing the window in the opening.

If the “unpacking” fastening method is used, that is, through the frame, then metal, frame dowels (anchors) or dowel-nails with a diameter of 10 mm are taken. At the same time, it is advisable to use anchors on concrete, brick (solid or hollow brick), expanded clay concrete, foam concrete walls or made of natural natural stone. Dowel nails are preferred on walls made of materials that do not have a high degree of compressive strength, such as lightweight concrete or other porous materials. They will also fit hollow blocks and bricks.

In the case when installation on anchor plates will be used, it will be enough for each attachment point of two dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. In addition, the plates themselves will be needed - and it is better to purchase them in the same organization that manufactures the window - special hooks on the plate must fit exactly to the PVC profile. To fix the plate, in addition, you will need self-tapping screws with a drilling tip 4 × 25 mm - one piece for each attachment point.

The length of the main fasteners must be such that, taking into account the thickness of the frame and the width of the mounting clearance, a minimum penetration into the thickness of the wall is ensured. For various wall materials, it has its own value - see the table:

Small 4 x 16 self-tapping screws may be needed to attach the sill and accessories for installing the window sill. They are also needed if it is planned to install a mosquito net on the outside of the window - they attach plastic brackets to the frame profile.

• The PSUL tape is purchased with the expectation that it is enough for the entire perimeter of the window. It is installed in such a way as to seal the gap between the window and the adjacent quarter - on the sides and top. And from below it will be attached when installing an external tide. If the window opening is without quarters, then, accordingly, less tape will be needed.
• PPE tape with foil - it will be necessary to completely isolate the perimeter of the window from the inside.
• Vapor permeable diffuse membrane tape - will cover the bottom side of the window from the outside when opening with a quarter, and it is desirable to glue it around the entire perimeter, if the opening is straight, without a quarter.
• Mounting foam: best option- purchase cylinders with "pro" - foam, for the use of which you will need a special gun. It does not give "inadequate" expansion, like cheap ones sold in spray guns, and will not have a deforming effect on the frame racks. In addition, it is much better, more durable, it is much easier to apply it to the right places, without unnecessary overspending.
• Finally, silicone sealant. It may be needed to seal narrow gaps between the frame and the window sill or slopes. At correct installation gaps, if any, are very small, that is a large number sealant is not required.

And finally prudent the owner will purchase a film that will cover furniture, walls, floors in the room where the window will be installed - at first the work will be quite dusty.

Dismantling the old window

After the window is made and delivered to the place of work, you can move on. It is clear that before installing a new PVC window, it is necessary to dismantle the old one and clear the opening. This work is quite dirty and laborious, but you can’t do without it. An approximate sequence of actions is in the table below:

Miniature	Description of the operations performed
	First of all, the largest sashes are removed. For example, if a balcony block is dismantled, then the door is removed. There is important nuance- it is possible to remove sashes or doors together with glasses only if the structure has retained its rigidity. If the window "plays" or is very rotten, then for reasons of elementary safety, the glass is first removed and taken out.
	It is recommended that all dismantled parts be taken out of the work area immediately - there is a high risk of accidentally breaking the old window glass and getting injured.
	If the side of the window has a window, then first remove it. If it was not possible to unscrew the old fasteners of the hinges (and most often this happens), then you will have to make an effort - usually this is enough to remove the window.
	Windows are usually hung on hinges, from which they can be removed by simply lifting them from below with a pry bar.
	All windows and vents are removed - you can proceed to dismantle the frame.
	First, the central rack is removed - the impost. To make this easier, the import is cut closer to the bottom of the frame. It is necessary to cut with a hacksaw - in some videos, the masters flaunt the fact that they use a “grinder” for this. To repeat after them - in no case should it be - it is extremely dangerous!
	The sawn impost itself becomes a lever, which will not be difficult to break out of the frame.
	Next, the lower jumper of the frame is removed. Again, for ease of dismantling, it is advisable to cut it using a jigsaw.
	Using a pry bar or a nail puller as a lever, one of the halves is pulled up.
	If there is resistance at the place of its attachment with a vertical stand, then you can help yourself with a mount there
	After that, the second half is broken out in the same way.
	After removing the lower jumper, the window sill is dismantled. It can be knocked out with a hammer from the side of the street.
	The window sill is removed and exposes the lower plane of the window opening.
	Go to the vertical stand. Often it is tightly wedged from above and below. Then it is better to move it somewhat away from the wall, and also cut it with a jigsaw.
	It will not be difficult to pull out the two halves of the rack one by one
	The upper part of the frame on one side is no longer supported by anything, and should move away without any problems.
	The last vertical leg of the frame should also not resist if it is properly pry with a pry bar. Sometimes, in order to get to the gap between the racks of the frame and the wall, you have to cut off the plastered slopes with a puncher.
	The last stage is the cleaning of the vacated window opening from the old sealant, construction debris, etc. cleaning is carried out very carefully so that the opening remains completely clean before installing the window. Ingoda it makes sense to use hard brushes and a vacuum cleaner. All garbage is loaded into bags and immediately removed from the work area.

Sometimes you have to resort to correcting the opening - removing defects in concrete casting, mortar residues, etc. The easiest way to do this is with a puncher by installing a chisel-shovel on it. It is also advisable to immediately drill small grooves in the wall on both sides at the place of the future installation of the window sill, about 50 mm wide and deep and about 30 high.

After cleaning the dust, one should not be too lazy and walk around the entire opening with a layer - this will strengthen the surface to a certain extent and improve adhesion with the mounting foam.

Preparing a new window for installation

BUT. If it is planned to install the window “with unpacking”, then it is advisable to stipulate the order at the time of registration so that it is brought disassembled (and this is most often the case). If not, then you will have to disassemble it yourself.

• First, glazing beads are removed from the blind sash. They can be pry off with the blunt side of a knife or a spatula, starting from the center. Then, when the first gap appeared, it is expanded by gently moving the instrument in one direction and the other.

The main thing is to carefully pry the glazing bead in the center

The glazing bead should disengage in the groove and separate in the interlock. Then it remains to put your fingers under it and carefully separate along the entire length. It is advisable to number the removed glazing bead - so that there is no confusion during reinstallation. But it is better to make a mark with a pencil from the inside out - the pencil mark is very hard to rub off from the PVC surface.

• is retrieved. It is most convenient to do this with a special suction cup, but if it is not there, then you can do it that way. Caution - the double-glazed window is quite heavy and may have sharp edges - it is better to work with gloves.

Please note that plastic inserts may be located under the double-glazed window. Their position will need to be marked in some way so that during installation they stand in the same place.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Video: how to remove a double-glazed window from a PVC window

• It is not required to get a double-glazed window from the opening sash - it is enough to remove the sash itself. It is quite easy to do this. To begin with, the sash handle is transferred to the “closed” position - it looks down. From both hinges, from the top and from the bottom, the decorative casing is removed - it should be easy to pry off with a thin screwdriver. Then we move on to the top loop. It has an axial vertical pin, slightly protruding outward. It is pushed down, and then either carefully knocked out using a thin screwdriver (its diameter should be less than the diameter of the pin), or pulled out by picking it up with pliers.

After that, the sash handle is transferred to the "open" position. The door leans back on top of itself, and then is removed by a translational upward movement from the lower axis. The removed sash, as well as dismantled double-glazed windows, are temporarily removed from the working area so as not to be accidentally damaged during further operations.

Video: how to remove a PVC window sash

• The next step in preparation is drilling holes for fixing the window in the opening. To do this, according to the previously drawn up layout of points for fastening, the centers of the holes are marked and slightly punched. A drill for metal Ø 10.2 mm is inserted into the chuck of a drill, hammer drill (switched to non-impact action) or a screwdriver.

Drilling is best done from the outside of the frame. In this case, the drill, having quickly passed the PVC layer, immediately, without distortion, rests against the reinforcing profile. After it is passed, there will be one insignificant obstacle in the form of the inner PVC surface of the frame. If you change the direction of drilling a hole, then it is much more difficult to achieve its perpendicularity and evenness of the edges.

• Checks for the presence of a wildcard profile. It is attached from below with a conventional locking connection, entering the grooves of the frame part. If for some reason it is not available, then it is advisable to purchase and install it. Most often, it does not require additional fastening. Experienced craftsmen advise in advance, about a day before installing the window, to fill the cavities of this profile with mounting foam so that it does not become a “weak link” in the thermal insulation of the entire window system.

• The protective coating is removed from the outside of the frame. If this is not done immediately, then it will be very difficult to separate the film that has been in the sun at least a little. And in general - it will be difficult to remove the protective coating from the outside after installing the window. On the inside, this coating can be removed later.

If the window will stand mosquito net, then now is the time to mount brackets for it. They are mounted on self-tapping screws 2 × 16 mm, screwed to the PVC profile.

Their placement should be such that it does not interfere with the pressing of the window to the upper quarter of the opening, and that the mesh is securely fixed, as well as its installation and removal by its translational movement upwards until it stops against the upper brackets.

• The last preparatory step in this case is gluing the PSUL tape on three sides of the window, in those areas where the frame will be pressed against the quarters of the opening.

Usually PSUL is placed in such a way that between its inner side facing the center of the window and the edge of the quarter there is a gap of about 3 ÷ 5 mm.

B. If it is planned to install the window on anchor plates, then the preparation process will have its own characteristics.

- Firstly, the deglazing of a deaf sash may not be carried out - it will be enough to remove the opening ones. True, this has already been mentioned, installation will become somewhat more complicated due to the large mass of the window.

- Secondly, anchor plates are installed at the intended attachment points. They have serrated or even hooks, which must perfectly match the grooves on the outside of the frame profile. It is enough to make a moderate effort, for example, knocking out with a mounting hammer - and they will fall into place.

Installing the anchor plate in the profile groove ...

There is a hole in the center through which they are fixed to the profile with a 4 × 25 mm self-tapping screw - after passing through the reinforcing metal profile, it will securely hold the plate in place. The plates are fixed perpendicular to the frame, and then they are bent so that they fit into the window frame when installed. opening.

... and fixing it with a self-tapping screw

On the opening itself, on its slopes, in those places where the plates will fall, recesses can be made in advance with a perforator. The goal is to reach the wall material, having beaten off the unreliable plaster layer (if any), and facilitate further work on finishing the slopes - the plates will not interfere with this. However, such an operation, especially when installing a window in a “bare” opening, is not mandatory - all this can then be closed with a finish.

The rest of the preparation steps do not differ from those about to which were mentioned above.

Installation and fixing of the window in opening

Very carefully, in compliance with all precautions and, possibly, additional insurance against tipping the frame outward, it is exposed to the window opening. If the opening is with quarters, then the frame should fit snugly against them through the glued PSUL.

The next most important task is to very accurately set the frame in vertical and horizontal planes, and the main tool becomes building level. Can you give one good advice- temporarily fix the window approximately in the center on top of the anchor plate - the degree of freedom will be preserved, and it will be much easier to work.

The level is set on the inner plane of the lower jumper of the frame - that's why the tool is preferable dl other 300 mm. The absence of vertical blockage of the frame is checked by applying a level from the side of the room to the impost and to the side posts.

To ensure the necessary clearances on all sides and the correct position of the frame, wooden or plastic wedges are used.

Plastic ones are definitely preferable, and if there is an opportunity to purchase them, then it will be ideal option. They "work in pairs", engaging one after the other through small teeth. Moving (knocking) them one relative to another, you can set the desired height to the nearest millimeter.

You can, of course, completely get by with wooden wedges or linings, but often this requires trimming, replacing, installing several pieces in a “pyramid”, etc.

The wedges should wedge the window so that you can move on to fixing it in the opening.

When installing fasteners using the “unpacking” method, experienced craftsmen often practice making a hole in the wall directly through the already drilled channels in the frame profile. This is quite acceptable, but only if the installer is 100% sure of the quality of the wall, the power of the tool, and the hardness of his hand. It happens that the perforator drill hits an obstacle, a beating begins, which, if not kept, can turn a neat hole in the PVC profile.

Drilling a hole right through the frame is dangerous enough

If there are any doubts about this, it is better to carefully mark the centers of the holes with a puncher, then remove the frame, and then start drilling. True, in this case, you will have to re-set the window to its previous position and wedge it, but with drilled holes, this will already be easy to do.

Driving the anchor into the prepared nest ...

The anchor is inserted into the hole directly through the frame, knocked out with a hammer until it is completely immersed, and then twisted, but without a "fanatical" effort so that the head does not deform the PVC profile. If dowel nails are used, then the plastic part is inserted first, and then the expansion nail is carefully driven in.

… followed by tightening

The fastener heads are decorated with special plugs, to be sure, lightly lubricating them from below with a drop of silicone sealant.

When installing a window on anchor plates, the process is even easier. They are finally given the desired bend so that they fit snugly against the surface of the window opening. Holes are drilled directly through their holes in the wall Ø 6 mm, into which dowel-nails are installed and hammered.

Window installed using the method "without unpacking"

The standards define two fasteners per plate, although, judging by the numerous photographs on the Internet, many masters are limited to one. Probably, nevertheless, with two - more reliable, and they are not at all expensive. However, sometimes the steepness of the bend of the plate simply does not allow you to install two dowels.

Sealing gaps

After the window is securely fixed in the opening, you can proceed to sealing the gaps between it and the opening, installing a window sill and low tide.

An important note - in the case when the installer decided in order to save ( absolutely unjustified) to use inexpensive "household" mounting foam, you must first assemble the window - install the sashes and double-glazed windows. The fact is that such a foam has a very significant expansion force, which can lead to even slight deformation - deflection into the frame profile. And even a slight curvature can lead to difficulties with installing a double-glazed window or closing the sash, which means that the window needs to be given “standard” rigidity before foaming.

Filling openings with high-quality "professional" foam will not entail such consequences. With the help of a pistol, which has a long and easy-to-use mouthpiece, filling is carried out down up. In no case should there be internal cavities - the foam should lie evenly and tightly. Its residual expansion is insignificant, which makes it possible to economically control its consumption. Particular attention is paid to narrow cavities, for example, under the staging profile.

While the window is in a disassembled state, nothing prevents you from checking the filling of the openings with foam from the outside, if necessary, making certain adjustments. This is especially important if opening has no quarters.

If the width of the gap between the frame and the opening is more than 20 mm, then it is likely that you will have to fill it with foam in two passes, with a pause between them of 2 ÷ 3 hours. The quality of the filling will only benefit from this.

Mounting - an excellent insulation, but very vulnerable. It must be protected from sunlight and excessive moisture. This should be done immediately after it completely hardens (in about a day), and the excess is cut off.

If a opening does not have quarters, then you should not delay with the device of external slopes, which should completely hide the hardened layer of foam from direct exposure to ultraviolet rays. Solutions here may be different, for example, plastering or paneling.

But in any case, it is recommended to first cover the outside of the foam with a diffuse membrane - it is necessary to ensure the free exit of water vapor into the atmosphere, while preventing the penetration of moisture from the outside. Moisture, if it accumulates in the thickness of the insulation, is capable of damaging effects when freezing and expanding.

And from the inside, another tape is used - PPE, which has both hydro and vapor barrier qualities. It will not allow from the inside either a direct ingress of water into the insulation layer, or the penetration of steam. In addition, the foil layer facing the room is another frontier of reliable thermal insulation.

Installing a window sill and tide

BUT. Installing a window sill can be done in different ways. So, they are mounted on glue or mounting foam, on special brackets or same using self-made fasteners made, for example, from straight hangers, which are usually used with galvanized drywall profiles.

Ideally, the window sill at its base should fit into a special groove for it on the substitution profile. Sometimes the frame design itself implies the presence of a special quarter, designed specifically for mating with the window sill plane. If it is not there, then the panel can be slipped under the frame profile, wedged from below for a snug fit to it.

To make it easier to understand, an example diagram is given. correct installation window sill and tide. Pay attention to location film membranes.

Consider the option of installing a window sill on mounting foam, as one of the most common.

• Wedges are placed under the window sill panel (again, better adjustable plastic ones), with a step of 400 ÷ 500 mm. The panel itself is cut to the exact size, often taking into account a slight penetration into the wall on both sides. You can cut the window sill with a hacksaw with a fine tooth.
• Then, by adjusting the height of the wedges, they ensure that the panel inserted into its intended slot on the frame or staging profile is occupied in an exactly horizontal position.
• Now the window sill must be loaded so that when the space below it is filled with foam, it does not move from the set position. The load can be given by placing on the windowsill evenly along the entire length, for example, water containers.

• The space under the window between the wedges is completely filled with mounting foam. She will and thermal insulator and act as glue.
• It will be possible to remove the load only after the foam has completely hardened.

• If there is a small gap between the frame and the window sill, it is carefully sealed with white silicone sealant.

B. The next is the installation of a low tide from the outside. An exemplary circuit is shown in the figure.

The place of fastening of the ebb is already covered vapor permeable a membrane that completely covered the mounting foam. It is recommended to glue the PSUL strip along the opening plane - the ebb located at an angle will rest on it, which will create another barrier against the penetration of moisture from the street.

The ebb itself is attached to the substitution profile with 4 × 16 self-tapping screws, with a pitch of 100 ÷ 150 mm. It can be mounted flush, and then it makes sense to smear its edge with silicone sealant. But it’s even better if its curved edge enters from below into a special groove of the production profile - then you won’t have to be afraid of rainwater penetrating under the tide at all.

Just like the window sill, it makes sense to slightly deepen the plane of the wall on both sides by gouging grooves for this. Then it will be easy to fix them with plaster.

Final window assembly

When the installation of the main elements is completed, it is necessary to bring the window into fully working condition.

• Double-glazed windows are inserted into place, using those plastic linings¸ that were originally installed. According to the numbering, glazing beads are mounted in place. This is most conveniently done with a special rubber or plastic hammer. The glazing bead should sit exactly along its entire length - straightness, an audible click and the absence of a gap will indicate that it has clearly taken its position.

• The removed sashes are installed in place - how to do this has already been described and shown above. After installation, the operability of the mechanism for opening and closing the sash in all modes and the tightness of its fit to the frame are immediately checked.
• If necessary, an accurate one is made (how to do this - in a special article of the portal). If there is no need for adjustment, then the hinges are closed with decorative casings.

In fact, the installation of the window is completed. Only the issue of installation remained unresolved - but this is already a topic for separate consideration, which is also paid attention to on the pages of our portal.

Finally, detailed Video instruction for metal installation plastic windows. Read, watch, evaluate your strengths in order to make a decision - is it feasible to install a plastic window with your own hands, or does it still make sense to turn to specialists for help?

Video: instructions for self-installation of PVC windows

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows is possible if you are not going to glaze large areas or install a large window (from 2x2 m). The editors insist: it is better to mount windows with a partner, as it will be both difficult and boring to work alone.

Instructions for installing plastic windows: taking measurements

Rectangular window measurements:

1. We measure the width of the opening (L pr. - the width of the opening in mm).

2. We calculate the overall width (L - width in mm) according to the formula L \u003d L pr. - 2 q.

3. We measure the height of the opening (H pr. - the height of the opening in mm).

4. We calculate the overall height of the window (H - height in mm) according to the formula H \u003d H pr. - 2 q.

q - the size of the mounting gap, according to GOST 30971-02, its value should not exceed 20-30 mm.

Photo 1 - Balcony plastic pair KBE (double window)

IMPORTANT! The size of the mounting seam cannot be arbitrarily increased or decreased: in the first case, mounting foam placed in a thick layer in the gap may not support the weight of the structure, and in the second case, you will not be able to install a window sill or even a window.

Almost all plastic windows have a stand profile that goes beyond the level of the window frame. It is designed to securely mount the window sill to the window. When calculating the dimensions of the structure, it is important to take into account its height.

Formula for calculating window height:

Photo 2 - Finished plastic single-leaf window 600 x 750

Perfectly even window openings are rare, therefore, when measuring a structure, it is important to measure not only one length and one width, but also the entire perimeter of the window and its diagonal (from the lower left corner to the upper right and from the lower right corner to the upper left).

5. We measure the thickness of the walls of the house (G is the thickness of the walls in mm).

6. The structure during installation will be located no further than 2/3G from the inner surface of the wall, i.e. will not be strongly displaced towards the street.

IMPORTANT! Offset towards the street reduces the thermal insulation of the room, but increases the sound insulation performance.

7. We measure the length of the ebb (Lо - the length of the ebb in mm). If you do not plan to install end caps, use the formula Lo \u003d L pr. + 50 mm, where 50 mm are allowances for the end seams of the ebb. If there are end caps, then Lo \u003d L pr. - 20 mm.

IMPORTANT! When measuring, be careful: the width of the window opening at the extreme points may not match.

Photo 3 - Rehau 2050х1415

8. We calculate the width of the tide (Ho - the width of the tide in mm) according to the formula: But = G ext. + (30 mm or 40 mm), where G ext. - this is the width of the wall from the point of attachment of the plane of the window frame to the outer horizontal of the wall.

9. We measure the length of the window sill (L under. - the length of the window sill in mm) according to the formula L under. = Lpr. + 2x, where x is the value of the window sill launch on the wall.

IMPORTANT! The length of the window sill should not be equal to the width of the window.

Photo 4 - Velux Optima 78×118 (GLP MR06 0073B, attic)

10. We measure the width of the window sill (H under. - the width of the window sill in mm). To Gint. It is necessary to add the value of the "departure" of the window sill and subtract the thickness of the PVC box (in the standard it is 60, 70 and 86 mm, but it is better to focus on a specific, rather than a standardized indicator).

IMPORTANT! A window sill with a long "reach" can interfere with normal circulation warm air from the battery. The window sill should not cover the battery more than 1/3.

11. We measure the length of the slopes according to the formula L otk. = Lpr. max + 30 mm, where 30 mm is an allowance for fitting, and Lpr. max is the maximum horizontal length of the window opening.

12. We measure the width of the slopes according to the formula H otk. = G int. + 30 mm or 40 mm, where 30 mm and 40 mm are mounting allowances.

Window Installation Methods

There are several installation methods:

• with unpacking

The structure is completely disassembled before installation: glazing beads, double-glazed windows, hinged windows are removed from the hinges and only the window frame is mounted in the opening, fixing it with dowels and self-tapping screws to the wall on anchor mounting plates. After installing the frame, the structure is assembled.

• without unpacking

Photo 5 - Economy 1180x1415

The window frame is fixed in the opening with external fasteners.

The latter method is not suitable for high-rise floors - the procedure for installing plastic windows above the 15th floor involves more reliable way fixing the frame after parsing the window.

All this can be done faster if you install the structure in a sandwich panel.

Installing windows in a brick house

Structures are selected depending on the type of building. Brick houses have wide walls, good heat and sound insulation, so windows for apartments in brick house you can choose from economy class.

AT frame house designs are set according to standard technology. More attention is paid to external waterproofing. When installing windows in such structures, it is convenient to use overlays for installation.

IMPORTANT! Due to the high probability of shrinkage of a new wooden building, windows in log house must be fixed so as not to interfere with the natural deformation of the walls.

You can extend the life of windows if you make large mounting gaps, statically fix the verticals, and the horizontals - in a "floating" way.

Photo 6 - Single swing turn-tilt

Plastic window installation technology: tips from experts EtiDom

AT technological map there is not only a detailed drawing indicating all the constituent elements, but also the amount of materials for installation is described.

Installation of windows according to GOST

Installation of plastic windows according to GOST involves the use of:

• PSUL for waterproofing,
• tapes for protecting polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation
• additional layers during installation so that the mounting foam does not come out of the seam to the outside of the wall.

Work progress:

1. We process the window opening cleared of debris and dust with a primer.

2. We glue the vapor barrier tape to the frame along the half-perimeter (we bend the protruding edge of the tape when the mounting foam hardens, closing the seam).

3. On the frame without breaking the tape, we glue the external waterproofing - PSUL.

4. We install the frame in the opening (G), level it in a horizontal and vertical position using wedges.

5. We fix the frame on anchor plates or through to the wall with a step of no more than 70 cm, starting at window opening from the top fasteners. From the corners of the frame, the extreme fasteners should not be removed more than 15 cm.

6. To organize the ebb on the outside of the frame, we attach a diffuser tape and PSUL.

7. We fill the assembly seams with foam and after 15 minutes we close the lapel with a film.

8. We attach the ebb to the frame with a stop under it. We also install the window sill (it is set to a horizontal level, we use wooden wedges for leveling).

It is difficult to dispute the advantages of new plastic eurowindows over old window systems: their installation guarantees reliable thermal protection and sealing. Let's discuss the process of replacing old windows with new double-glazed windows.

The desire to save on the installation of structures and cope with the installation with your own hands is quite logical. Although plastic windows are a complex structure, you can handle their installation yourself and without specific equipment.

We take measurements

When taking measurements, one should take into account the features of the opening - with or without a quarter, other parameters and details, including the window sill and the presence of ebbs.

In the first case, one opening is measured in the vertical and horizontal directions.

The second option involves measuring the distance horizontally between the quarters in the narrowest place, adding 3 cm to the resulting value. The net distance from the bottom of the opening to its top is measured vertically, which determines the height of the planned glazing.

We make the required calculations

To perform installation without a quarter, it is necessary, in addition to measuring the distance between the surfaces of the window opening, to calculate its optimal dimensions. To do this, subtract 5 cm vertically to obtain optimal height, and horizontally - 3 cm to calculate the width. These gaps include a 1.5 cm layer of mounting foam around the perimeter of the window opening and 3.5 cm for installing a window sill. Another 5 cm is added to the measurements of the window sill with a low tide, so that there is a margin for mounting into the wall.

Before visiting the store and purchasing materials, you should obtain six dimensional data:

• window height and width:
• window sill dimensions (width with length);
• tide settings.

Preparing supplies and consumables

What do you need for self installation plastic window? From the inventory you will need the usual set of tools:

• building level;
• set of hexagons;
• screw driver;
• jigsaw;
• perforator;
• knife;
• tape measure pencil.

Watch a video on how to install a plastic window in accordance with GOST standards:

The package of necessary consumables includes: foam for mounting, silicone composition, putty, screws.

For execution installation work you need to prepare the profile of the future window, handles, window sill, fasteners and ebb.

Dismantling the old window

If the frames are deaf, the first step is to remove the elements that hold the glass. The opening sashes are removed from the hinges simultaneously with the glass. If the double-glazed windows are worn, the frames in them are loose and move in a horizontal direction, in order to avoid unnecessary problems and secure the glazing, it is recommended to dismantle them in advance.

After that, the frame is pulled out, sawn with a hacksaw in separate places. Sometimes the use of a grinder is required.

Having divided the frame into parts by sawing, they are removed with a crowbar, a hammer and other auxiliary tools, disconnecting from the window opening, with which they have “grown together” over the years of operation. If the frame is in good condition, you can do without dismantling. But it is still better to perform this action so that it is possible to install new glazing directly to the wall.

The procedure for dismantling the old window sill is the same, and if it is made of wood, such a measure is a necessity. The concrete structure is beaten off with a hammer or a crowbar and a sledgehammer are used. But if her condition is normal, you can do without a crash. But note that plastic construction is warmer than concrete, and if there is a lack of heat, it is preferable to install it, besides, a worn construction is not able to provide optimal contact with the new frame.

After dismantling the intermediate components, inspect, clean from dirt and, if necessary, repair the bearing parts of the opening.

Preparation of a new eurowindow

If the sashes open, lock them securely before installation so that they do not accidentally open during installation work. The window must remain closed even when foaming, sealing gaps, installing in a frame - its flexible ribs can bend in a semicircle under the action of the foam that increases during solidification.

Before opening the sashes, wait about 12 hours after the installation work is completed - this time is required for the fixing compounds to harden.

Important! Inexperienced installers make the mistake of removing the protective membrane before installing the window. But the film is required just to protect the window from damage and dirt during installation.

Remove the film after finishing work related to finishing: puttying, painting, installing slopes.

Installation steps

Installation begins with marking the frame for fixing elements placed on all sides of the frame at a distance of 70 cm. If the double-glazed window is single and has a small weight, you can increase the distance, but by a maximum of 100 cm. . But double-glazed windows with a stand profile in the design do not require fixing from below.

In accordance with the marks on the frame, fasteners are mounted. They are combined with it so that the screw passes through the iron that is in the frame (it is called a bent channel). For this, special screws designed for iron are used, 0.4 cm in size, with a tip that looks like a drill.

On a note! It is acceptable to use ordinary 0.5 cm screws, but then you will need to do extra work, drill 4 mm recesses for self-tapping screws with a drill, and then screw them in. They cost approximately the same, but differ in the thickness of the metal: the plates are 1.1-1.5 mm thick, while for suspensions this parameter is 0.5-1 mm.

At the selected points of installation of fasteners on the window opening, holes are made. This action is not performed by eye, but the frame already equipped with fixing parts is placed at the installation site and, in accordance with the mounting perimeter, holes are made 2-4 cm deep in their “imprints” on the outer side of the opening - a stone or brick wall. Fixing parts are immersed in these holes.

The window is placed in the opening using a level, if necessary, placing wood chips under the frame. The wedges can only be inserted opposite the transverse components of the frame: under the horizontally lying strips at the points of their intersection with the vertical ones.

Simple installation instructions for the wedges: insert two at the bottom and one at the top to adjust the bottom edge and top horizontal. After that, two at the top for fastening the frame. Then the remaining wedges on the right and left sides, top and bottom. If there is an impost, it is wedged in the same way - so that the plumb lines are parallel to one another. The installation of wedges takes a lot of time - this is an important part of the installation work, on which the correct placement of the frame in the window opening in the vertical and horizontal directions depends.

The next step is fixing the double-glazed window in the opening.

Having adjusted the placement of the window, it is fixed with anchor bolts. Anchor fasteners are more reliable, but also more expensive. Any fastener can withstand a load of up to 60 kg - this is enough for a window. The cross section of dowels for fastening in concrete, foam concrete, brick and shell surfaces is 6-8 mm, and the length is 75-80 mm.

At the end of the installation work, the gaps between the window opening and the frame built into it are foamed so that there are no cavities.

The foaming technique in the presence of gaps larger than 2 cm involves the application of several layers of foam at 60-120 minute intervals to solidify each of the layers. This reduces the deformation of the foam mixture with its increase in volume and reduces unnecessary costs, since the excess will still have to be removed.

Important! If during the performance of work the temperature is less than +5, the foam must be used universal, suitable for all seasons, or intended for winter work.

In most cases, window sills have standard parameters with the necessary margin, they are adjusted during installation to fit the dimensions of a certain opening. These actions are performed using a grinder (a hacksaw with small teeth is also suitable) and a jigsaw.

Then the trimmed part is adjusted in accordance with the substitution profile design: it is set exactly level - according to the same method as the window. As for the plugs on the window sill, it is preferable to install them so that they fit into the opening in the wall. To fix them, it is recommended to use a special glue, and not rely on silicone and acrylic compounds.

Watch another video that tells about the features of self-installation of PVC windows:

The design of the window sill should be placed evenly so that a cup filled with water can be placed on the surface without splashing. Make sure that the window sill does not change position even with excessive pressure.

It happens that the window sill is mounted with a slight slope (less than three degrees in the direction of the street). The slope prevents the accumulation of condensate on the windows, thanks to which the water flows to the ground.

Having finished the adjustment and fastening, proceed to foaming and seal the space under the window sill by placing a load on top so that the foam does not lift the structure. 24 hours after the foam has completely solidified, the excess is removed with a knife.

It happens that due to the unevenness of the window sill element, after its installation, a cavity appears between its top and frame. It is filled with a silicone mixture, but keep in mind that the silicone will darken over time due to the formation of mold, which will spoil the look of the white euro window. Try to avoid the formation of such a defect at the installation stage. Before mounting the plastic profile, screw Z-shaped plates made of galvanized sheet metal. Such elements will make the process of setting the window sill structure easier.

Installation of slopes with platbands

From the inside of the window, wooden rails are installed on self-tapping screws 9.5 cm long, controlling their location with a level with a square.

The next step is the installation of the initial profile, which has a U-shaped configuration, on mini-screws screwed directly into the frame. This profile is intended for inserting slopes, when installing it, you need to be especially careful when combining its outer edges.

A profile similar to the letter F is attached with a stapler. Its groove must match the groove of the previous one; they will hold the slopes.

After the double-glazed window is equipped with two types of profile, slopes are installed in them.

The final step is the sequential installation of platbands: one at the top and two on the sides. To ensure mutual contact, their edges are cut at 45 degrees.

Adjustment of fittings

To adjust the sashes, the hexagons located next to the hinges are used. To do this, use a bit with six edges or adjust the flaps with a small wrench. Due to this, during their rotation, a position is created in which the flaps can be easily closed and opened without damaging other components of the system. The flaps must not open and close randomly, their position must remain stable.

Often, during manipulations with the sashes, there is a strong contact with the locking fittings, which is accompanied by characteristic sounds. The problem can be solved by unscrewing the self-tapping screw that fixes a certain fitting element, shifting the latter by 5-10 mm.

Installation of ebbs

In most cases, ebbs are mounted at the end of all installation manipulations. It is recommended to fix them directly under the window: thanks to this, you will prevent moisture from entering the gaps between the ebbs and the frame. But in some cases this is impossible to do, and the tide is attached to the frame with miniature iron screws 0.4 cm in diameter and 0.9 cm long.

Let's calculate the costs - these are the labor and financial costs of the installation itself.

The technique of self-installation of a window involves two main types of work: the dismantling of an existing window and the installation of a new one. In order to remove the old window, it will take from 0.5 to 1.5 hours. Installation of a new double-glazed window with average dimensions will take about a couple of hours.

On average, it takes 2.5-3.5 hours to replace one double-glazed window. Working in this rhythm, you can install several windows at once in one day.

Thanks to do-it-yourself glazing, you can save on the services of specialists, because professionals require payment in the amount of 2-4 thousand rubles. - for glazing one opening. When ordering this service from any company, you can spend even more if the prices are formed as a percentage of the price of double-glazed windows (from 10 to 40%). And if you do everything yourself in accordance with the step-by-step instructions, you will get not only savings, but also confidence in the quality of the work performed.

Does it make sense to mount windows with your own hands

Self-assembly of plastic profiles is not as difficult as it seems. Almost all double-glazed windows have a modular design that does not involve the assembly of individual elements and is almost ready for installation. In order to insert and secure them in the opening, it is not necessary to be a professional; expensive tools are not required for this.

But please note that the installation is carried out under your responsibility - this means that you will have to take measurements and purchase materials yourself.

The manufacturer's warranty will apply exclusively to double-glazed windows and fittings. The person who installed the window will be responsible for the quality of installation work, the tightness of the seams, the correct location of the structures and the performance of the window system.

If you use the services of an installation company, the guarantee for the work performed and consumables will be from 1 to 5 years.

But if you have the time and desire to install a plastic window yourself, do not be afraid: you will cope with this task if you follow step by step instructions. You will be able to mount the glazing yourself, enlisting the help of one of your relatives or friends so that you are given the tools.

You do not have to pay professionals, because their services are not cheap, and the work on installing a new window will not last much longer than if it were done by specialists.

One more detailed video about how to properly install a plastic window:

Common Mistakes

Beginners installing plastic double-glazed windows for the first time often make the same mistakes. Such shortcomings are not critical, but can affect the service life and ease of use of the window system.

1. The window profile is installed with glazing beads on the street, thereby opening the way for intruders to enter the house. To get into the room, unauthorized persons only need to remove the glazing beads, pulling out the double-glazed window will not take them much time and will not require much effort.
2. Installation is not always performed correctly, as is, without checking or correcting the level; This results in design failures.
3. When sealing cracks with building foam, they ignore the instructions attached to it. Many do not even suspect that the foam is destroyed by the action of sunlight, and this is stated in the instructions. To maintain the tightness of the window system, the foamed slots must be closed with a finishing material.
4. The double-glazed window is fixed exclusively with mounting foam without additional fasteners in the opening. A similar mistake, if an opening with a quarter, can cause cracks on the slopes, due to the fact that the foam cannot provide full fixation of the frame, and when it shifts, it will begin to break the slopes. A double-glazed window installed in an opening without a quarter, over time, under the influence of vibration and other influences, may fall out altogether.

Read about: the main causes of fogging windows and how to deal with it.

Read about how to properly install the thermostat on the battery.

It is undesirable to use an iron cutter when dismantling any wooden structures, including a worn frame - this tool is not suitable for this work. Thin disk with a rotation speed of 7 thousand revolutions per minute. easily damaged by a knot - this is very dangerous for the performer. The use of a toothed disc should also be abandoned - for the same reason.

Until the foam has completely hardened, do not install the handle to open the sashes so that the household does not unknowingly ruin your work.

To date, plastic double-glazed windows can be called the best solution for use in any building. If you are still using wooden windows, then it's time to change them to more modern ones and forget about the annual problems in winter period. You do not have to paint them and plug the gaps, because the plastic frames are perfectly even and not at all demanding to care for. We will tell you how plastic windows are installed, and show a video of the installation process for clarity.

If you were interested in the services of plastic window installation companies, then you probably know that they have the usual installation and installation in accordance with GOST. it costs more, but subject to all tolerances, it is better than usual. You can learn more about the requirements for the quality of products and installation work in several regulatory documents.

• GOST 23166-99 "Window blocks" - General requirements to room lighting, ventilation, weather protection and noise permeability.
• More specific requirements are described in GOST 30673-99 "PVC profiles" and GOST 30674-99 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles".
• Installation requirements are specified in GOST 30971-02 "Mounting seams of adjoining window blocks to wall openings".
• The norms of heat and sound insulation, ventilation, light transmission are described in GOST 26602.1-99, GOST 26602.2-99, GOST 26602.3-99, GOST 26602.4-99.
• Those. terms of glued double-glazed windows construction purposes specified in GOST 24866-99.

Do-it-yourself PVC window installation includes the following steps:

• aperture measurements;
• dismantling works;
• preparation of openings for installation;
• installation of a plastic window.

However, if you decide to do all the steps yourself, then a problem may arise: manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements and installation were not performed by their masters. If you make a mistake by a centimeter, the window block may simply not enter, and if you insert plastic windows incorrectly, then after a couple of years they will freeze, leak, etc.

On the other hand, if you approach work responsibly, having studied all the details before work, you can even install PVC windows. better than masters from firms that often save time and money by not following the process.

Consider in order all the stages of installation work, and start with measurements of the window opening. This is the most difficult stage, because it is difficult to determine the actual dimensions of the window when it is already installed, especially in older houses. The layer of plaster and insulation after dismantling may fall off, and the opening will become larger than you expected, so you should carefully examine the walls when measuring.

First, consider the process of measuring a window in an opening without a quarter. A window quarter is an internal frame of bricks about ¼ brick wide (5-6 cm) that prevents windows from falling out and allows them to be more rigidly fixed. In addition, a quarter closes the mounting foam from the sun's rays, which is mandatory even in its absence. When there is no quarter, the frame is attached to the anchor plates, and the foam is hidden using a decorative flashing. Finding out the presence of a quarter is very simple: you need to compare the width of the frame inside and outside the window; if it differs greatly, you have quarters.

Window measurements are performed as follows:

The width of the window opening is measured. To do this, you need to know the distance between the internal slopes. At the same time, in old houses it is worth considering the thickness of the plaster, it is advisable to remove it for more accurate measurements.

The height of the window opening is measured from the upper slope to the window sill, taking into account the thickness of the latter. We make at least 3 measurements, from the edge and in the middle, for calculations the minimum result is taken.

• Width = width of the window opening - 2 centimeters per mounting gap.
• Height = Opening height - 2 cm per mounting gap - stand profile height.

It is also necessary to check the straightness of the window opening so that its sides are not skewed vertically and horizontally. Measurements can be made using a standard spirit level. If you are a fan of ultra-precise measurements, then use a laser level.

If there are irregularities, be sure to indicate them on the drawing, according to which you will order the window. It is necessary to calculate the usable space so that during installation the corners of the frame do not rest against the wall due to the skew of the opening. In other words, it is necessary to maintain a uniform mounting gap around the perimeter.

As for the location of the window block, when viewed from above, it must be installed 2/3 of the width from the inside. If external cladding of the facade is planned, you can move the window closer towards the street.

To measure the width of the drain, it is usually enough to add 5 cm per bend to the width of the already installed ebb. Its total width should be the sum of the width from the mounting seam to outer corner walls + 3-4 cm per ledge and + margin for bending. If planned exterior finish facade, take into account the thickness of the insulation and finish, so it is recommended to install the ebb after finishing the facade, but it is important to cover the mounting foam from the sun in any case.

The dimensions of the window sill should be equal to the width from the inner corner of the wall to the mounting joint + the size of the inward projection - the width of the window frame (60, 70, 86 mm). The overhang should be large enough to cover the top of the radiator by about 1/3.

It is better to measure the slopes after installing the windows, since it is difficult to determine the exact width. The length will be equal to the height of the window opening with a margin for cutting.

Quarter window measurements

If there is a quarter, you need to take into account its dimensions and measure on the outer part.

• Width \u003d distance between quarters + 2 centimeters for the overlap of the quarter on the frame (2.5-4 cm).
• Height \u003d distance between the ebb and the upper quarter + overlap on the upper quarter (2.5-4 cm).

The installation plane is chosen along the inside of the quarter, and from it the dimensions of the window sill and the ebb are calculated.

Many window manufacturing companies provide measurements for free. Therefore, think before you take on independent measurements, you can still leave this work to professionals.

Window order

After all measurements, you can contact the manufacturer and decide on the configuration of the reservoir window. Fittings are selected, the presence of deaf parts and sashes.

Also, when choosing, you should know that there are several window fastening systems:

1. fastening through the frame in the mounting plane;
2. fastening with support reinforcement, which is installed during production.

In the first case, during installation, double-glazed windows are pulled out of the frame and fixed, and then inserted back. The second option means that the window is fixed immediately with double-glazed windows. Both systems have their disadvantages: when pulling out and installing double-glazed windows, their tightness can be damaged, and if this is not done, the weight of the entire structure will be large, which adds to the risk of damage during installation.

Preparatory work

Preparation should begin only after a window is in place. First of all, of course, you need to free up the working space and cover the furniture with polyethylene, because there will be a lot of dust.

If necessary, a double-glazed window is pulled out of the window and the sashes are removed from the hinges. To pull the double-glazed window out of the frame, you need to carefully pry the glazing bead with a chisel and pull it out. First remove the vertical glazing beads, then the horizontal ones. Be sure to number them so as not to confuse them, otherwise gaps may appear later.


After you pull out the glazing bead, you can tilt the frame slightly and pull out the glass, moving it to the side.

To remove the sash from the frame, you need to remove the plugs from the canopies and unscrew the bolts. After that, turn the handle to the center to switch the window to the ventilation mode, open it slightly and remove it from the lower canopy.

As a result, only the frame with imposts (lintels for separating the wings) will remain.

Marking of points for anchoring is done, and holes are drilled from the inside. Make at least 3 attachment points at the edges and 2 at the top / bottom. For reliable fixation, anchors of 8-10 mm and a corresponding drill for metal are suitable.

If the walls have a low density (for example, cellular concrete), then fastening should be done on anchor hangers. They are screwed to the frame and fastened to the wall with hardened self-tapping screws (6-8 pcs. for each suspension to the wall).

Advice! In order to exclude a temperature bridge in the place of the support profile, it is highly desirable to fill its internal cavity with mounting foam the day before installation. So you protect yourself from freezing.

Removing the old window is best done on the day the new one is installed. Some homeowners prefer to keep old windows for reuse. If you want to dismantle the window carefully, do the following:

1. remove the window sashes from the hinges;
2. remove the old mortar from the space between the frame and the opening;
3. having access to the window fasteners, dismantle them or cut them off with a “grinder”;
4. knock the frame out of the opening;
5. remove the old seal and insulation;
6. remove the layer of plaster from the slopes with a perforator with a nozzle-shovel;
7. dismantle the window sill and use a perforator to remove excess cement under it;
8. level the slopes and remove excess mortar;
9. Treat all adjacent surfaces with a primer.

If the opening is wooden, it is necessary to provide a layer of waterproofing around the perimeter.

If work takes place in the cold season, then it should be warmer than -15 degrees outside. At the same time, frost-resistant foam must be used in winter.

Fixing a plastic window

First you need to fix the window on wooden wedges around the perimeter so that you can level it, and then just fix it to the wall. Wooden substrates do not need to be removed after fixing, they will additionally support the structure.

Sectional view of the installed plastic window

Another gross violation of GOST is the lack of a support profile. It provides not only a stable mount, but also allows you to fix the window sill and ebb to it. In the absence of a profile, they are usually attached directly to the frame, violating its tightness. The diagram shows how to position the window sill profile at the bottom of the frame.

After that, you need to make sure that in all three planes the window is perfectly level. This can best be determined with a plumb, water or laser level. Popular bubble levels have poor accuracy for such measurements.

As soon as you set the window block exactly without distortions and slopes, you can fix it with anchors to the wall.

With a perforator, carefully so as not to damage the profile, we drill the wall by 60-120 mm through the holes prepared in advance in the window. First we fix the bottom anchors, but not completely, then we check the evenness again and fix the remaining points. The anchors can only be finally tightened after the final check. In this case, you do not need to overdo it, otherwise the frame will warp. In the same way, fastening to anchor plates occurs.

Drainage plant

From the outer side of the window, the ebb is attached to the stand profile with a self-tapping screw or in a special groove on the bottom of the frame. All joints must be sealed with sealant so that moisture does not penetrate inside. Additionally, you can deepen the ends of the ebb into the wall by a few centimeters, making the recess with a perforator. Before laying, the bottom gap is sealed from the outside to prevent freezing. To reduce the noise from the rain, we glue a strip of Linoterm sound insulation on the lower part of the tide or make a foam pillow.

Window Assembly

When all the anchors are fixed, you can insert the double-glazed windows back and put on the sashes. We insert the glass into the frame and fasten the glazing beads back, they should snap into place, to do this, gently tap them with a rubber mallet.

Elements of plastic windows

Then you need to check that the sash opens freely and fits snugly when closed. The window level is finally checked. An open sash should not open or close arbitrarily if the window is level.

After you are convinced of the correct installation, you can proceed to seal the mounting seam. We seal it with polyurethane foam and make reliable waterproofing on both sides to avoid freezing and misted glass.

Before applying the foam, moisten the cracks with water. When filling the gap, it is important to spray it again to improve the polymerization process.

Advice! When sealing the seams, be especially careful! It is important to apply the correct amount of foam (70-95% of the joint space), if it is too little, freezing is possible, and if it is too much, then the window can lead. After drying, the foam should protrude from the seams by several centimeters. Also make sure that it does not get on the front of the plastic profiles. Fill wide joints over 8 cm in several stages.

Inside, we glue a hydro-vapor barrier tape for plastic windows along the perimeter, except for the bottom. At the bottom of the window, you need to glue the waterproofing with a foil surface, which will be hidden by the window sill. On the outside, you need to stick a vapor-permeable membrane so that moisture comes out from the inside, but does not penetrate inside.

We cut the window sill so that it rests against the lining profile and enters the opening. At the edges, it should go to the walls by 5-10 cm. Do not forget to leave a temperature gap of 0.5-1 cm, which will be hidden by plastic slopes.


The window sill is installed on wooden linings, according to the level, slightly tilted into the room. The empty space under it is filled with foam and plastic plugs are glued from the ends. After that, you need to put a heavy object on it until the foam dries. You can also fix the window sill on the anchor plates by screwing it to the wall from below.

Video on how to properly measure and install plastic windows:

Now you know how to install a plastic window correctly, and you can probably do it yourself. It is recommended to finally check the operation of the fittings one day after installation, so that the foam has time to set. It is necessary to adjust the fittings for a snug fit of the window on all sides.

This installation instruction for PVC windows also applies to balcony glazing, but there are some subtleties. In particular, it is usually necessary to reinforce the parapet, additionally creating a partition of foam blocks.

If you or your friends have previously used the services of companies for the installation of double-glazed windows, then you know that installation can be ordinary and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, then the quality will be much higher than in the first one (for more details about the standards, see GOST 30971-02).

Consists of several stages.

Note! When manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If the windows are installed incorrectly, they will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, then the structure simply will not enter the opening.

However, if you study all the subtleties of the process, then there will be no difficulties during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.

Video - Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST

Stage 1. Measurements

In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.

Note! A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ of a brick, hence the name), which prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.

If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on anchors, and the foam will be closed with special flashings. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the inner and outer widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.

1. First, the width of the opening (the distance between the slopes) is determined. It is recommended to remove the plaster so that the result is more accurate.
2. Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope from above and the window sill).

Note! Measurements must be repeated several times and take the smallest result.

To determine the width of the window, two mounting gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the profile height for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.

The symmetry and straightness of the opening is checked, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.

To determine the width of the outflow, 5 cm should be added to the already existing outflow for the bend. Also, the width of the insulation and cladding is taken into account (subject to the subsequent finishing of the facade).

The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the size of the departure is added to the width of the opening, the width of the frame is subtracted from the received figure. With regards to departure, it should cover the heating radiator by a third.

Note! measured after installation.

Stage 2. Order

After measurements, the finished drawing should be taken to the window manufacturer, all the necessary fittings will be selected there. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:

In the first option, you will have to pull the package out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached entirely. Each option has disadvantages - if you pull out the package, then it can; and vice versa, if the window is installed assembled, then it can be damaged due to its large weight.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Stage 3. Preparation

This stage of installation begins only after the delivery of the ordered windows. Freed first workplace, all furniture is covered with plastic wrap (there will be a lot of dust).

Step 1. If required, a double-glazed window is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly tucked in with a staple and pulled out. First of all, vertical glazing beads are removed, then horizontal. They are necessarily numbered, otherwise gaps form after installation.

Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the canopies. The handle is turned to the "ventilation mode" (in the center), the window is slightly opened and removed. Only the frame with imposts remains.

Note! Imposts are special lintels intended for dividing sashes.

Then you need to make markings for the anchors and make holes on it - two from the bottom / top and three from each side. This will require anchors ø1 cm and a drill of the required diameter.

If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, cellular concrete), then fastening is carried out using anchor hangers. The latter should be fixed on the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces each).

Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it must be filled the day before installation. So the element will not freeze through.

Stage 4. Dismantling work

This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before installing a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be pulled out along with the mount, and, if necessary, the frame can be sawn.

Step 1. First, the seal and thermal insulation are removed.

Step 3. The window sill is removed, the cement layer under it is cleaned off.

Step 4 Adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.

Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. Mounting foam must be frost-resistant.

Stage 5. Installing a plastic window

Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (it will be easier to align the structure), only after that it is fixed to the wall. Substrates can be left - they will serve as additional fasteners.

Step 2. The absence of a stand profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install an ebb with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.

The correct location of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.

Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. It is characteristic that traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, therefore it is better to use.

Step 4. If the window is straight, then it is fixed with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled through pre-prepared holes in the structure with a puncher (about 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.

Note! The final screed is made only after the final check. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the design will “skew”.

Prices for mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns

Mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns

Stage 6. Drainage

Outside, an ebb is attached to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure.

The edges of the tide are recessed into the walls for several centimeters, having previously made recesses with a perforator.

Note! Before installation, the lower slot is also sealed.

Stage 7. Assembly of the window

After fixing the anchors, the double-glazed window is inserted back.

Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber mallet).

Step 2. The flaps open, the tightness of their fit is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening/closing of the sash cannot occur if the window is level.

Step 3. Close up on the sides mounting seam. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass from fogging. Before and after sealing, the joints are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.

Note! The seams are filled no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will “lead”. If everything is done correctly, after drying, the foam will come out a few centimeters.

Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used from below.

Stage 8. Installation of the window sill

Step 1. The window sill is cut in such a way that it enters the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic

Step 2 Wooden wedges are placed under the windowsill. It must be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a while until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.

Video - Instructions for installing plastic windows

findings

Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after the end of installation (then the foam will already “grab”).

The described technology is quite applicable to, although there are some nuances there too - such as, for example, installing a parapet to create a partition.

Find out how to do it right from our new article.