Underfloor heating from hot water. Underfloor heating from hot water in a city apartment - a contour of a warm floor in a bathroom. Wooden floor heating system

If during the autumn-winter cold the room still remains cool, you should think about how to keep warm using radical methods. Today, such an opportunity as the installation of a warm floor with a liquid heat carrier has proven itself well. The water heated floor system in the apartment is gradually replacing classic heaters and fans.

The device of a warm water floor in the apartment

A water heated floor in an apartment is a self-sufficient design and effectively heats a room of any size, even in very coldy. The polymer pipes circulate warm liquid coming from gas boiler or central heating systems. The air in the room heats up, and rising up, evenly distributes heat over the entire area of ​​​​the room.

This allows you to create the most optimal and comfortable conditions, thanks to which you can not be afraid of hypothermia of the legs, at the same time, the temperature near the ceiling decreases slightly. Doctors say that such a thermal regime is the most suitable for good health.

This type of structure is:

• flooring (laminate, tiles, etc.);
• laying layer;
• a pump that circulates water;
• heater;
• polymer pipes;
• fasteners and distribution manifolds.

This heating option increases the life of the finish floor covering, and makes it possible to apply original design solutions in the interior.

Is it possible to make a water heated floor

Not infrequently, the question arises whether it is possible to make a water-heated floor in multi-storey buildings? Today legislative acts changes that relate to various improvements in piping schemes in housing stock where there is central heating are prohibited. It can give an increased load, which was not taken into account at the time of designing the house. Forced circulation and a rather complicated installation of a special pump will be required.

But, theoretically, such systems can be mounted in any room, the main thing is not to disturb the balance of the water flow and observe the conditions for dosing heat consumption. In addition, in new buildings, the layout provides for the presence of risers for connecting TVP.

To make the installation of the structure in the apartment legal - special permits from the representative of the housing and communal services and heating networks will help. Required documents will be issued only after checking the premises and agreeing on the equipment necessary for further use. Unauthorized connection of a warm floor threatens with fines, litigation and other troubles:

• if necessary, it will not be possible to legally sell the apartment;
• if there is a break in the circuit and the apartment of the neighbors below suffers, all repair costs will have to be paid in full.

Before you make a water heated floor in an apartment, you should calculate the possible consequences and negative risks, take into account the positive and negative qualities this modernization.

Advantages and disadvantages of a water heated floor

In comparison with alternative heating systems, a warm water floor stands out with a number of undeniable advantages.

• Profitability. Water, which has a low temperature, reduces heat consumption in residential buildings by 20-30%. In spacious rooms with ceiling heights above average, the savings reach about 60%.
• Security. The heating elements hide the screed and the flooring layer. The risk of burns and injury is completely eliminated. This also applies to facts involving long contacts with a warm surface. The probability of the appearance of the fungus is reduced to zero, since there are no areas of increased dampness.
• Convenience. It is very pleasant to walk on such a floor without indoor slippers, and you can also not worry about the health of children who want to play on the floor.
  The humidity level practically does not change, the air does not dry out. The room warms up evenly, which allows you to obtain temperature conditions that are optimal for a person.
• Visually aesthetic interior. The system does not affect the overall design of the room, which cannot be said about traditional batteries and pipes. All parts and devices of the heating structure are hidden from prying eyes; redevelopment can be easily done. Radiators do not have to be hidden behind drywall panels or replaced with new ones.

In the process of using a water-heated floor from central heating, it requires lower costs than an electric one. The system practically does not require maintenance, and during installation all the necessary norms of sanitary, hygienic and environmental safety rules are observed.

Among the disadvantages are:

• high cost and complexity of installation - the basis of a multilayer structure includes several types of materials;
• the likelihood of a possible leak of pipes - you can find and fix the problem only by fully raising the floor covering;
• slow heating of the screed - this method is only suitable for rooms in which they live permanently.

Installation of a water heated floor in an apartment is not always possible. Some rooms will require the installation of additional heating sources (convectors or radiators).

Preparing for work on installing a water-heated floor in an apartment

Before starting work on installing a water-heated floor in an apartment from heating, you should calculate the amount of materials that will be needed to organize the system. To do this, it will be necessary to evaluate the characteristics of the finish coating, the area and features of the room (maintained temperature, window features, wall material, etc.). If there is a strong draft in the room, it is advisable to start insulating it first.

It is also necessary to take into account the characteristics of the pipes used for the circulation of the liquid acting as a heat carrier. Today the following types are most popular:

• foam;
• metal-plastic;
• copper;
• corrugated stainless steel

The length of the harvested pipes is affected by the laying method - a snail or a snake. The first option, despite the complexity of design and installation, is more efficient. In such a system, pipes with relatively hot and cool water alternate in series, evenly distributing warm air throughout the room.

Installation of the underfloor heating system

The device of a warm water floor in an apartment must begin with careful surface preparation. Construction debris should be removed and the base leveled. The horizontal plane should not have differences exceeding 5 mm. Otherwise, coolant stagnation zones are formed, as a result of which the structure may fail. There are three installation options for this heating system.

Concrete water floor heating system

The most popular installation method, in which a cement-sand screed is the main material in the base and distribution layer. A film is laid on the concrete layer, which provides thermal and waterproofing. Then glued around the perimeter of the room special tape, which will prevent cracks and absorb the expansion of the screed when the circuit is heated.

On top of the thermal insulation, special grids with cells are mounted, and pipes are connected to them. It is important to correctly calculate the distance between them, it depends on how evenly the incoming heat will be distributed. Recommended laying step:

• in cold zones (near windows, doors) - 10 cm;
• in rooms with normal heat loss - 20-30 cm;
• in cold rooms - 15 cm.

For spacious rooms, a reinforcing mesh is used during installation. It is not recommended to lay pipes where furniture can be installed.

Structural elements are fixed, powered and maintained for several days. If there is no damage, fill the carrier layer with a mixture with the addition of cement, sand and plasticizers.

Then the final flooring is laid. If the laying of the water heating system in the apartment must be done under ceramic tiles, then the screed should not be wider than five centimeters.

Wooden floor heating system

Polystyrene underfloor heating system

Do-it-yourself water-heated floor in an apartment can be made using special heat-insulating plates. Products are distinguished by a special form of pressing and have the appearance of convex circles. They are the best suited for quick and convenient installation of pipes. The plates are securely interlocked with locks at the edges, thanks to which it is possible to create a monolith around the entire perimeter of the floor.

Is it possible to make water heated floors on your own without resorting to the help of specialists? This option is possible, but several recommendations should be taken into account.

• When arranging the heating structure, it is necessary to completely dismantle the old finish up to concrete screed.
• Replace metal pipes (if any) with a plastic counterpart, this will avoid rust at the joints.
• Reliable waterproofing from a trusted manufacturer will save the floor from possible leaks.
• When installing insulation, be sure to glue the seams between the sheets with metallized tape. An additional layer of waterproofing will minimize all possible risks leaks.
• If a laminate or natural wood was used as a finishing coating, the temperature of the coolant should be increased gradually. With a sharp jump, the material may be damaged, which will significantly reduce its service life.
• The water heated floor in the apartment from heating must be installed so that when the circuit is turned off, the coolant circulates in central system. Filling the screed or laying the thermal distribution plates is necessary only on the filled system.

Features of operation and probable errors

When you connect a warm floor, the temperature in the apartment rises for a long time. It takes time for the floor, walls and air in the room to warm up, so installation should begin before the onset of the first cold weather.

During installation, certain errors are often made:

• independent connection to the riser - the pipe is constantly filled with coolant, to start work you need to get a special permit and completely drain the water;
• the impossibility of adjusting the temperature - you need to install a water collector and a mixing unit;
• lack of a project - you should not start work without determining the layout of pipes and dividing an apartment or house into heating zones;
• materials and components from different manufacturers - this common mistake can cause rapid depressurization of the structure.

Installation of such a system as a warm water floor is a rather complicated and time-consuming process. But, if you wish, you can handle the installation yourself, without involving specialists. The main thing is to obtain the necessary permission and strictly follow the recommendations for working with the materials used. However, so that the question of how to make a water-heated floor in apartments does not cause unnecessary financial costs, it is better to seek qualified help.

Increase in delivery prices hot water makes people look for a more economical way to heat their apartment. One of these methods - water heated floors in the apartment will be discussed in more detail, namely, how to properly make a warm floor.

Laying of warm flooring and warm water floors in an apartment in European countries has been done since the 80s of the last century. In Austria, Switzerland and Germany, a water heated floor in an apartment is installed in 60% of houses. Different energy sources are connected to heating for underfloor heating:

• infrared emitters;
• heating electric cables;
• PLEN device, films with built-in electric spiral and others.

The warm floor and the technology of its execution in this case provides for heating through the laid with hot liquid, most often it is water, sometimes antifreeze or antifreeze is used. Laying a water-heated floor requires laying pipes evenly over the floor surface.

During circulation, the liquid in the heating system passes through a centralized heating source, gives off heat to the concrete, and then the air is heated. The technology of laying a water-heated floor provides for heating water with an autonomous boiler, or heated floors in an apartment are connected from central heating. In both cases, the inclusion and installation of a water-heated floor can be done by hand.

Modern technologies simplify the installation of a water-heated floor. Pipes are used, the configuration of which is based on the molecular memory of cross-linked polyethylene. This reduced the cost of materials, the connection scheme for a water-heated floor and the installation technology became simpler, and reliability increased.

Installing and pouring a warm floor is not a difficult process; it is quite possible to make a warm water floor with your own hands. For this, several methods and special materials have been developed. People are interested in how to connect the warm floor of the room to the heating system, how to implement this project on their own.

Pipe length calculation

How to calculate the length and lay pipes on a water heated floor with underfloor heating will be discussed below. There are several options for how pipes for heating should be installed in a water-heated floor: in the shape of a snail or in straight parallel lines, in other ways. But everywhere the main requirement is met.

The pipes are distributed evenly, the total length covering a certain area depends on the step between them. To fulfill the conditions for heating with underfloor heating, it is necessary to correctly calculate the length of the pipe. To simplify the process, calculated for different options pipe consumption is tabulated.

Underfloor heating pipe consumption depending on the loop pitch

Using the table, it is easy to understand how to do the calculations yourself. With a room area of ​​​​20 m and a laying step of 20 cm, the length (L) will be equal to 20 m 2 multiplied by 5 linear / m, which will be 100 m. The length of the warm coating circuit should not exceed 70 m, this is due to the effective circulation of the coolant through the pipeline and pump capacities. With an excess of a pipe in a circuit of 70 m, warm floors are not effective, then how to make the right choice?

The pitch is set to 300 mm. Length (L) \u003d 20 m 2 * 3.4 linear / m \u003d 68 m. This fully meets all the requirements. Several lines are installed in a large room, but individual contours of a warm coating should not exceed 70 m. Using powerful pumps, it is possible to connect a warm water floor circuit up to 120 m.

Laying technology for a warm floor clearly defines how to fill in a warm water floor. There are ready-made mixtures that remain to be diluted with water at the concentration indicated by the instructions. In some cases, a water-heated floor is made without a screed when the floor is plywood. If chipboard is laid: laminate, parquet, linoleum, it is not necessary to fill the warm floor with a screed solution. A dry screed is successfully used for a warm water floor.

Before pouring and installing flooring, pipes are checked for leaks. A special compressor is used, water is pumped into the pipes under a pressure of 6 bar, the process is called pressure testing. If the pressure has not dropped by more than 1.5 bar within 24 hours, the heating circuit is leak-tight. Incorrectly made underfloor heating, poor-quality installation can lead to the need to dismantle the floor covering.

Main advantages

In relation to the old technology with radiator batteries, the new technique has a number of advantages:

• Heated layer at the level of human feet. The feet are warm, the head is moderately cool - this stimulates the human body to active life.
• The time-consuming procedure for removing dust in hard-to-reach places of radiators is excluded.
• Uneven heating stimulated colds. In case of warm floors all these shortcomings are absent, the surface is easily swept and washed;
• Space is freed up, there is no need to think through options for how to fit pipes into the interior of the room;
• Installation work has become much easier;
• Carrying out work, the main elements of the system are cheaper. To heat the room, the temperature in the pipes is 55 ̊С and not more than 60-70 ̊С. Installation and further operation of underfloor heating is cheaper by 30%. Therefore, many people appeared who wanted to learn how to make a water heated floor.

Underfloor heating from central heating

Organizational matters

Many residents of apartments want to dismantle the batteries or, in addition, connect a warm floor from central heating to them. Before starting such a reconstruction, it is necessary to resolve organizational issues, namely, to coordinate the project with management company that serves the house.

Unauthorized connection to the central heating system is punishable by very high fines, in addition, they will subsequently be forced to dismantle all installed equipment.

The difficulty in the question of how to make a warm floor from heating is the process of obtaining permission. The difficulty is that most boiler houses operate at the limit of the calculated capacity or have a small margin. Several apartments can be connected, with a mass connection, the central system will not be able to function normally.

Connecting a water heated floor to a heating system has some technical difficulties. It depends on the design of the central system. So, in schemes with direct supply through one pipe, there are no options for connecting. Where the coolant circulates along the contour of the pipes in the forward and reverse direction, connection is possible.

In many ways, the location of the heat exchanger affects the decision of the management company. When the heat exchanger is located at the bottom, residents of the upper floors are more likely to get a permit, and vice versa. After obtaining permission, you can purchase equipment and proceed with the installation of the floor from the central heating.

Wiring diagram

Before pouring, the entire laying scheme is checked for tightness of the warm water floor. Depending on the length of the circuit and the diameter of the pipes, the pump power is selected. The laying scheme for a warm floor includes the following main elements:

• Valves at the inlet to the underfloor heating circuit;
• check valve;
• Three-way control valve (thermal head);
• Circulation pump;
• Coolant temperature control sensor;
• Collector for underfloor heating;
• Plastic pipes.

The scheme for installing a water-heated floor begins with connecting the central heating system to the return line. Two valves are cut in to drain the forward and reverse flow of the underfloor heating system. They are designed so that at any time you can turn off the water and carry out repairs or Maintenance elements in the underfloor heating line.

The check valve ensures the movement of the coolant fluid in one direction. Great importance the system has a three-way valve, it distributes hot and cold flows, mixing them until the set temperature is reached. Sometimes this device is called a thermal head. The temperature of the water entering the warm floors from the central system can reach 70 ̊С, this is too much, for normal operation no more than 50 ̊С is required. The thermal head reduces the temperature to the value set on it, usually 40-45 ̊С.

The circulation pump ensures the circulation of water within the circuit in a given direction. Temperature sensors indicate the temperature of the coolant. There is automatic systems controls that combine the operation of sensors and three-way valves, but this topic requires a separate, more extensive description.

A collector for a warm floor distributes heat carrier flows through pipes of different circuits. The return line underfloor heating collectors collect the cooled flows, directing them to a three-way valve, where the liquid is distributed by a thermal head for further circulation in a closed circuit, maintaining the temperature set in it. Manufacturers make collectors for underfloor heating from various materials:

• Brass products are durable and strong, withstand high pressure, they are universal for any type of pipe;
• Collectors for underfloor heating made of copper withstand the most high pressure up to 30 bar and high temperatures in heating systems. Often used in circuits where oil, antifreeze or antifreeze can be used as a coolant.
• Stainless steel parts are most in demand due to reasonable prices and good specifications satisfying installation in apartments.

Three way valve design

The heating system, to which underfloor heating is connected, necessarily includes a three-way valve, its design and principle of operation require detailed consideration. In fact, the valve works like a hot and cold water mixer, you can make it warmer or colder.

When the locking element is moved in the adjustment sector, the space for the flow of hot liquid increases and decreases for the flow of the cold part of the coolant, and vice versa. Thus, the temperature in the system can be controlled. This diagram of a water circuit with a valve helps to better understand its purpose and principle of operation.

Sometimes electrically actuated valves are used in conjunction with thermostats. Water flows are adjusted automatically, depending on temperature changes. When lowering, the shut-off device of the valve moves in the direction of increasing the hot flow, and, conversely, when the set temperature rises, the electric actuator moves the locking mechanism in the direction of increasing the cold flow.

Features of the circulation pump

It depends on the correct choice and installation of the pump whether the entire system will work efficiently. The circulation of the coolant depends on the length and diameter of the pipes; bends at pipe bends make it difficult to move the flow. To achieve the required fluid circulation rate in the system, a pump is installed. Greater consumer preference for pumps with three pumping speeds, this allows you to control the temperature of the coolant, and therefore the air in the room, by changing the circulation rate.

When the room temperature drops, the coolant will cool faster in the pipes. By increasing the circulation rate, the streams will more often pass through the heating element, raising the temperature. The speed switch is located on the pump housing and is operated manually. Options are provided when the entire process is controlled by an automatic system.

Manufacturers produce two types of pumps: with a wet and dry rotor, in the first version the rotating part is in the circulating fluid, in the second version the rotor is isolated. More suitable for apartments wet rotor, their capacities are limited for rooms of 400 m 2, this is quite enough. They consume less electricity and operate silently. The pump housing can be made of stainless steel, cast iron or polymer, the latter option is optimal, lightweight, strong and durable.

The numbers through the fraction sign on the marking indicate the dimensions of the inlet and outlet holes, the last number indicates the length of the product for calculations when installation work. In order not to go into details, when making a pipe calculation for a warm floor, calculations are used when choosing a pump using a table.

Characteristics table for pump selection

Heating area, m²	Pump performance
	radiator heating	warm floor
80-120	0,4	1,5
120-160	0,5	2,0
160-200	0,6	2,5
200-240	0,7	3,0
240-280	0,8	4,0
300-350	1,2-1,5	-

When installing the pump in a line, it is impossible to confuse the direction of movement of the coolant, it is indicated by an arrow on the body. The rotor must be in a horizontal position, with a vertical installation, the pump power is reduced by 30%.

The pump can be placed on any section of the pipeline, but most often this is done at the inlet to the system after the switchgear, thermostat. It is very important that the pump is equipped with an air release valve. An air lock can block the circulation of the coolant and the operation of the pump, opening the valve will help get rid of the accumulated air at the interval in the network where the pump is installed.

Connection to an individual heating boiler

The presence in an apartment or a private house of an individual boiler for heating removes all organizational problems to allow the installation of water-heated floors. In this case, the connection of a warm water floor does not require any permissions. Depending on the conditions of location and operation of the facility, boilers can be of various types:

• on gas fuel;
• on liquid fuel (solar oil, fuel oil);
• solid fuel: firewood, pellets, coal;
• electrical;
• combined.

In apartments of multi-storey buildings, gas or electric are most often used. heating boilers, connection to the central heating system of the underfloor heating circuit is not required. In this case, the scheme differs slightly, and the functional purpose of the main elements remains the same.

Main elements:

• boiler;
• expansion tank;
• manometer;
• circulation pump;
• collector for underfloor heating;

In contrast to the case with central heating, the connection of underfloor heating to the boiler does not require the installation of a three-way valve to regulate the temperature of the heat carrier. Its installation is not mandatory, the temperature change is done from the boiler control panel. Temperature control sensors are also located on the external control panel.

The expansion tank serves to maintain a stable pressure in the system; when heated, the volume of liquid increases. In order not to collapse the collector of the warm floor, the pump and other expensive elements in the pipeline system, the tank compensates for the expansion of the volume of the coolant. The pressure gauge shows the pressure in the pipes. The main thing is that before pouring a warm floor with a solution, you need to check the performance of all nodes.

Regardless of the modification of the device and its manufacturer, all panels have basic options, and some additional programming functions:

• buttons or regulators for increasing and decreasing the temperature of the coolant at the supply;
• button automatic installation comfortable, economical temperature regime, room temperature - 20-22 ̊С;
• program control is possible, setting the modes "winter", "summer", "holidays", "system protection function against liquid freezing".

How to make specific settings for boilers with different control panels is described in the operating instructions. Filling a water-heated floor with a solution for a separate boiler is done in the same way as for central heating.

Video: water floor heating in the apartment

All this shows that it is preferable to make underfloor heating with the installation of an autonomous heating boiler, the main part of the installation can be done by hand. A water floor made without a screed, or dry with a screed, will simplify the work and make it cheaper.

If the scheme for connecting a warm floor is not entirely clear, you can and should consult with professionals on individual elements in the floor. Having studied the purpose, the correct connection of the main elements in general scheme, technically literate people understand that laying a warm floor is not difficult, making a warm floor with your own hands is a very real task.

The popularity of heating systems, organized on the modern principle of floor heating, is constantly growing. In many countries, this technology has already become prevalent, and "warm floors", having displaced the usual radiator schemes, are being incorporated into projects. multi-storey buildings and are mounted immediately, as the building is erected. This is due to the advantages of such heating in terms of creating the most comfortable conditions for people to live or work - there is uniform heating down up with optimal temperature distribution and without creating pronounced horizontal movements of air masses.

Such obvious advantages of such a heating system make many owners of houses and city apartments think - is it worth switching to it? When considering possible options, very often electric floor heating is treated with a certain prejudice, which is explained by the high cost of electricity, and the water "warm floor" will clearly win in terms of operating efficiency. This is complemented by the fact that water heating pipes have already been laid in the apartment, and the temptation is very great to simply connect floor heating circuits to them. Probably, this explains the fact that in the top of search queries on the network on heating topics there is always one such as “warm floors, water wiring diagrams in the apartment”.

You may be interested in information on how to mount

However, you must immediately warn the owner of the apartment who wants to switch to water floor heating - not everything is so simple. The system itself is quite complex and requires large-scale work. And in the conditions of high-rise buildings, the number of obstacles to the successful implementation of such a project increases many times over. And, these problems are very versatile - both technological and administrative in nature.

However, subject to certain conditions, there is such a possibility. But first, perhaps, we should get acquainted with the difficulties that will inevitably have to be overcome. It is possible that, having seen the prospect and assessed the scale of the activities that will need to be done, some apartment owners will still decide to stop at a simpler installation and safe operation electric floor heating system.

Do I need to coordinate the project with utilities?

In the event that the owner of the apartment intends to connect his water "warm floor" system to the existing central heating system, he will almost certainly face a number of administrative problems.

Heating high-rise building- this is a complex branched system, which was calculated in advance by specialists, and its possibilities are not unlimited. When designing it, the power of the boiler house or local heat point, the diameters and length of the pipelines, the degree of their insulation, the required pressure and temperature of the coolant, the layout of the apartment wiring and the connection of radiators, and many other criteria were taken into account. Independent introduction of any changes in the operation of this system can lead to an imbalance, a decrease in overall efficiency.

It is clear that the design is always carried out with the necessary technological reserve, and the connection of one or two underfloor heating circuits, of course, is unlikely to be noticeable on a system scale. And secondly, what is hardly noticeable in the volume of the entire local system may well be felt on the scale of an entrance or a specific riser. Connecting additional circuits, which usually have a very considerable length, can be affected by a drop in the temperature of the coolant in the neighbors' radiators. Surely, this will end with complaints about the work of the thermal power industry, and those who are looking for a reason will definitely find it, and unauthorized connection will lead to serious administrative measures.

There is only one way out - to go through the procedure of coordination with the management company or with the suppliers of thermal energy. But whether they will give such permission is a big question.

In this case, the owners of apartments located at the very end of the heating riser are in an advantageous position. For example, with a lower supply, this will become the upper floor, and if the coolant is supplied from above in the riser (this happens more often), then residents of the apartments on the first floor will be more likely to enlist permission. The selection of thermal energy for floor heating will not affect the radiators of the neighbors in the riser.

But this, again, does not mean at all that other technical conditions from the side public utilities will not be nominated. So, almost certainly they will demand the obligatory installation of an individual heat consumption meter.

You may receive a proposal from public utilities to organize your heating system according to a semi-autonomous principle. In this option, the coolant from the central system will not be used for circulation through the pipes of the "warm floor" - the circuit is completely closed. And the transfer of thermal energy received from the boiler. Occurs through a special device - a heat exchanger installed on the supply pipe.

Of course, in this case, it will be necessary to install additional equipment to organize the circulation of the coolant and prevent emergency situations. In addition, such a scheme also does not relieve the owners of the need to purchase and install a meter for consumed heat energy.

Many problems can be avoided if you decide to completely transfer your apartment to heating system. A similar trend is gaining popularity - the owners refuse heating and hot water services and install their own electric or gas boiler.

Here, too, coordination with housing maintenance companies is required, but it is already of a slightly different kind. But on the other hand, the owner of an autonomous system gets freedom in choosing the number and type of radiators, floor heating circuits, convectors, etc. Heat metering devices in this option will not be required - only the costs of the energy carrier - gas or electricity - will be paid.

It cannot be said that the problems of apartment owners will end there - they will face many technological difficulties. But in se they can be solved in one way or another.

The key issue is the laying of "warm floor" pipes in a city apartment

If the administrative stage has been successfully completed, permission to connect has been obtained or complete autonomy of the heating and hot water supply system has been ensured, then it is time to move on to a phased solution to the problems of laying the “warm floor” contours. in such a way as not to exceed the permissible load on interfloor ceilings. A very important point is the high-quality thermal insulation of the structure being created, the reliability and durability of pipes and their connections. And, of course, at this stage it is necessary to deal with optimal scheme laying, the length of the contours, the step of their laying.

Possible obstacles - raising the floor level and weighting the structure

The first thing to do is to assess how much the floor level in the apartment will rise after the installation of the “warm floor”, and whether this can be allowed under specific conditions. And the increase in thickness is inevitable, and it consists of three factors.

Approximate scheme of the water "warm floor" under the screed

• Nobody wants to pay money for anything, and therefore it will be necessary to provide a thermal insulation barrier (pos. 1), which will prevent heat from being wasted almost in vain, for heating the reinforced concrete slabs of the interfloor floor.

If the premises are located above another heated apartment, then a thermal insulation layer of 25 ÷ 30 mm of expanded polystyrene is usually sufficient. Under the most favorable circumstances, sometimes they are even limited to a rolled foil insulation (made of polyethylene foam) with a thickness of about 5 mm. But if a cold basement or an uninsulated basement is located below, then you will have to use a thermal insulation layer of 50 mm, or even more.

• The efficiency of the “warm floor” is ensured by pouring a screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm (pos. 2). The concrete layer not only closes the pipes of the circuits (pos. 3), but also becomes an element of the entire system that accumulates and evenly distributes heat.

But not only will the screed raise the floor level by another 50 mm. The load on the floor slab increases significantly, and it is imperative to consult whether this is permissible in a house of a particular series.

• And, finally, the thickness of the floor finish itself (pos. 4) cannot be discounted. It, of course, is incomparable with the thickness of the screed, but it can also add 10 ÷ 15 millimeters, or even more, especially if thick ceramic tiles are laid on a layer of glue.

Some problems can be avoided by applying the “warm floor” laying method without a concrete screed. In this case, to increase heat transfer, special metal plates with channels for laying pipes are used.

Such plates can be placed in special modules (wooden or wood composite), into insulating mats of a special design, or to make a wooden floor structure on logs, as shown in the figure:

Water "warm floor" on wooden base without screed

Between the lags installed on the base floor base and aligned horizontally (pos. 1), thermal insulation material (pos. 2) is laid. Boards (pos. 3) are stuffed on top with a step that ensures the laying of heat-exchange metal plates (pos. 4). Pipes of the “warm floor” contour (pos. 5) are laid in the channels of the plates, and then the entire structure is covered from above with sheets of plywood, OSB, drywall, etc. (pos. 6) - this will become the basis for laying the finish coat.

This method of laying somewhat loses to the screed in terms of heat transfer efficiency. However, this way you can win precious millimeters of height, and prevent excessive loads on the floor.

But in any case, raising the floor level cannot be avoided. So, you should evaluate possible solutions in advance and make the right choice.

Now let's go through the main components for laying the "warm floor" circuit - insulation mats and the pipes themselves.

Choice of insulation mats

• As already mentioned, in almost ideal conditions (the building itself and the floors in particular already have highly efficient insulation, and a well-heated room is located below) can be used roll materials, for example, "penofol".

Prices for penofol

In this case, the laying of the contour can be carried out with tying the pipe loops to a pre-laid reinforcing metal stack, or using special mounting rails with grooves for pipes.

• If better insulation is required, then expanded polystyrene mats are used (best of all - extrusion).

Such a heater can be in the form of separate plates, but it is better to purchase special mats that are laid out like an "accordion" or "tractor caterpillar". Very often, a grid is applied on such products, which will greatly facilitate the process of marking and laying out the contour. The foil surface will reflect heat towards the room, increasing the overall effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Fixing pipes to such mats can also be carried out to a reinforcing mesh or using mounting rails, or special clamps with harpoon tips, which securely hold the rub in a given place.

• However, the best, albeit expensive, solution would be to purchase special profile foam polystyrene mats for a water “warm floor”. The protrusions placed on their surface - bosses allow you to quickly and reliably fix the contour loops without the use of any additional accessories.

The optimal choice is polymer-coated profile mats with locking protrusions (shown by arrows in the figure). When laying, a solid surface is obtained, which becomes an excellent waterproofing. Thus, three problems are solved at once - insulation, the creation of a waterproofing barrier and the simplification of the pipe laying process. In addition, there is no need for additional reinforcement of the screed - the protruding bosses themselves perform this role.

By the way, such mats can also be used if it is decided to do without a screed. Heat exchange plates are installed between the bosses, and the circuit pipes are already pricked into them.

The choice of pipes for "warm floor"

There should be no simplifications in this matter - the contours are mounted for a long time, hidden by a screed and an external coating, that is, it is necessary to have a guarantee of the safety and tightness of pipes and their connections. Any, even a minor leak, can lead to catastrophic consequences and large-scale repairs with a mandatory opening of the floor.

What are the requirements for pipe contours:

• Pipes made using suture technology are not allowed.
• It is impossible to place pipe connections in the thickness of the floor - the circuit must be made from one solid bay. There are, however, exceptions - this will be discussed below.
• Fortitude to corrosion, to possible aggressive chemical action of the coolant, the formation of scale or lime deposits on inner walls. Ideally, pipes should also resist oxygen diffusion - many modern models provide such a function.
• Thermal and mechanical strength margin. The pipe material should not be afraid of elevated coolant temperatures and withstand a pressure of at least 8 ÷ 10 atmospheres.
• The pipes must have a smooth inner surface - to reduce the hydraulic resistance of the circuit and so that the coolant flow through them is not accompanied by noise.

Based on the specified criteria, immediately excluded steel pipes VGP - they are suture, and they cannot be applied without creating joints.

Surely the temptation to use polypropylene pipes because they are inexpensive and easy to install. However, in our case, they cannot be used. - not the most suitable option. Firstly, they have a large coefficient of linear expansion when heated. And secondly, the assembly of the circuit will require very a large number welded joints. Although high-quality welded polypropylene joints are highly reliable, in these places narrowing of the conditional passage is possible, accumulation of solid precipitation, and the numerous rectangular turns themselves lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance, which is unacceptable in the contours of a warm floor.

So, the choice can be made from the following types of pipes:

• PE-X XLPE pipes

Special processing of polyethylene, which has a linear molecular structure, creates numerous cross-links (“crosslinking”, which will give the material completely new qualities. Pipes made of such cross-linked polyethylene are distinguished by excellent flexibility and strength, easily withstand temperature changes, and are not afraid of freezing.

The best performance indicators are for the material marked PE-Xa - they have the highest degree of crosslinking, up to 90%. And if they are supplemented with a special layer that excludes oxygen diffusion, then this is even better.

Prices for PEX pipes

PEX pipes

In addition, you can purchase pipes from the most innovative polymer - PE - RT, in which the positive advantages of cross-linked polyethylene, especially in terms of thermal resistance, are expressed even more deeply.

• Metal-plastic pipes

As if specially created for the "warm floor" - light, have good heat dissipation, allow you to lay complex contours with bends (subject to technology). However, one should be careful when choosing them - there are too many shoddy goods on the market that cannot withstand high temperatures and pressure surges.

In addition, the aluminum layer can be very unstable to oxygen corrosion, and this leads to delamination of the pipe and the loss of its qualities. Therefore, if metal-plastic pipes are chosen, then attention should be paid to the material of manufacture of the outer and inner layers, and, preferably, to the presence of an oxygen barrier.

The best option one sees a pipe with PE-X-polyethylene outside and inside, and a layer of aluminum welded to special technology.

Prices for metal-plastic pipes

metal-plastic pipes

• Copper pipes

In terms of the degree of heat transfer and the durability of operation, such pipes, probably, have no rivals.

The plasticity of the metal allows you to perform contours of any level of complexity. Copper is not afraid of corrosion, water hammer, critical temperatures. The only thing that stops its mass use is a very high price.

• Stainless flexible corrugated pipes

Another modern approach is the use of corrugated stainless pipes. Their high flexibility is an excellent quality for laying the contour, and the resistance to corrosion, further enhanced by the internal polymer coating, guarantees a long service life.

In addition - e now and then the only exception to the rule that allows butt joints to be made under the floor surface - this is ensured by the highest reliability of regular fittings. And despite the fact what the maximum length in the bay is 50 m, they can be safely used for laying even longer contours.

The only drawback in using such material is the very high price.

We decide on the scheme of laying the contour

In order for the water "warm floor" in the apartment to be really effective, it is necessary to follow certain rules for laying its contours.

• There are two main laying patterns - this is a "snake" or "snail". But they can be combined and combined in various variations. Basic schemes are shown in the figure:

a - "snail". It is considered the most appropriate in terms of uniform heat distribution. More different complex process styling.

b - "snake". It is easier to install, but it has a pronounced drawback - heat is distributed zonally.

c - a variation of the "snake" with a double entry. The distribution of heat over the area is more uniform, but there are pronounced bands.

• In order to prevent unnecessary heat consumption for heating wall structures, the contours are laid at a distance of no closer than 300 mm to them.
• One of the defining parameters of the contour is its laying step, that is, the distance between adjacent pipes in the loop. Usually this value lies in the range from 80 mm (it is impossible to do less, since the bending radius of the pipes will not allow) and up to 300 mm (they don’t do it anymore, because there is a “zebra effect” - pronounced stripes of warm and cold coating).

The laying step largely depends on how it is planned to use the "warm floor" - whether it will be the only source of heat, or should it work in conjunction with radiators. In addition, for living rooms t requires a surface heating temperature of up to 29 ° With(if natural wood or parquet is used as a finishing coat - up to 27 ° With), while in the bathroom. in the kitchen, in the bathroom, finished ceramic tiles, in the hallway it is already 33 ° C.

• Heating radiators are not in vain installed near window openings - they create a kind of curtain, minimizing heat loss. This should also be taken into account when drawing up a "warm floor" scheme - provide for a denser laying in areas with maximum heat loss - at windows and along external walls. And here it can be very a large number of variations of the "drawings" of the contour.

Laying pattern	Short description
	The usual "snake" - it itself creates a zone of increased heating, even if you do not use a variation in the laying step.
	Also a classic "snake", but with a noticeable compaction of laying along the outer wall, of course, to the detriment of heating the rest of the area of ​​​​the room.
	"Double serpentine" laying with a compacted contour in an area requiring increased heat.
	Two consecutive sections of the "double serpentine" with the highlighting of the area of ​​increased heating.
	"Snail" with asymmetrical laying of spirals - sealing the contour towards the outer wall.
	Two successive "snails" highlighting the area requiring increased heat.

The laying scheme is best depicted immediately on a scale in the drawing - diagram. This will also help in the process of installing the circuit, and will allow you to calculate in advance the required number of pipes.

The contour length can be calculated using the formula:

L= k × Sy/ Hy

L- the length of the contour in a certain area.

Sy- land area.

Hy- the step of laying pipes on the site.

k— coefficient taking into account pipeline bends.

Thus, if the laying step is uniform over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, then the calculation is made at once for the entire contour. If there are selected sections with compacted laying, then calculate the length of the pipe for each, and then summarize.

To make things easier, you can use the calculator below.

For tenants apartment buildings, especially the old building, from year to year, with the onset of the cold period, the same problem arises. We are talking about the quality of heating residential premises. Centralized heat supply, despite all its archaism, remains today the main option for heating the housing stock in almost all settlements and cities of our country.

For reference: According to the State Statistics Committee, today up to 75% of the housing stock in our cities is heated by a centralized heating system.

Hot batteries in the house are not yet a sign that it will be warm and comfortable inside the apartment. Autonomous heating, underfloor heating in the apartment, heating methods that most of our citizens can only dream of. Multi-apartment buildings, especially "Khrushchev" and panel high-rise buildings, due to design features huge heat loss. Normally warming up a residential building with conventional radiators in severe frosts is a problematic task.

For this reason and for a number of others, residents are forced to look for ways to help solve the problem. One of the effective, relatively inexpensive and most practical options for additional heating is a heated floor from a heated towel rail.

Connecting a heated floor to a heated towel rail

The idea of ​​using centralized heating as the main source of heat for the operation of other heating systems in the apartment is not new. Using massively electric household heaters to create a comfortable temperature in an apartment is a costly exercise. Insufficient thermal efficiency of residential premises causes high costs for additional heating. Underfloor heating in this regard is the most effective way heating. For private houses, this heating scheme is real and feasible, but for city apartments, the legality of this engineering and technological solution comes first.

The main reason for the ban is that inserting additional heaters into the central heating system can adversely affect the quality of heating in neighboring apartments.

For reference: in a central heating system, the working pressure differs significantly from the optimal parameters that the pipes of the underfloor heating circuit have. Do not forget about the temperature of the coolant. For underfloor heating optimum temperature heating is 35-45 0 C, while in the radiators of the central heating system, the coolant has a temperature of 65-75 0 C.

The incompatibility of operating parameters calls into question the combination of a centralized heat supply system with a heating pipe laid in the floor. If we omit the legality of this engineering solution in this situation, heating engineers speak negatively about the idea of ​​​​using a heating plant for underfloor heating. The poor quality of the coolant and the high probability of water hammer makes such a technical solution a problem area in the apartment. It’s a completely different matter when it comes to heating a limited area in your apartment.

For example: a bathroom, toilet and other rooms are in dire need of additional heating. Install a heated floor in the bathroom, which will be connected to a heated towel rail, a task that you can handle on your own. Calculations and expenses in this case do not play a key role. A small area and small amounts of work allow this heating method to be used in a city apartment without harming neighbors.

Principles of operation of the heating system

Such a connection option does not represent technical complexity. The heated towel rail is heater installed in almost every city apartment. From a constructive point of view, this is an external communication element through which the hot coolant or hot water of the DHW system circulates. Such elements are often placed as a compensating loop of the heating system, they play the role of an additional source of heat in rooms with high humidity. The name of the element speaks for itself, hence the serpentine shape, thanks to which the heated circuit can be effectively used.

For aesthetics, towel warmers are usually made of stainless steel or plated with nickel. The very design and method of connecting the heated towel rail to centralized communication make it possible to connect a water floor pipe to it without much difficulty. As a rule, pipes of small diameter are used for underfloor heating. For a bathroom, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich rarely exceeds 4-5 m 2 in a city apartment, only 15-20 meters of pipe will be required.

There are two types of heated towel rails:

• a coil that is connected to a centralized heating system;
• coil, which is connected to a centralized hot water supply.

In the first case, with the onset of the heating season, water fills the heated towel rail and, accordingly, enters the underfloor heating circuit, heating the floor surface.

The first option works only during the heating season. The rest of the time your warm floor will be inactive. A coil connected to the DHW system looks preferable. Such a floor in the bathroom will always work, providing a good microclimate and comfortable temperature.

What does the wiring diagram look like?

The option of connecting a heated towel rail in an apartment also determines the method of installing a warm water floor.

On a note: in some houses, the coil installed in the bathroom is fed by the coolant going in the opposite direction. This option is the most suitable in terms of manufacturability.

The acceptable temperature of the coolant allows the floor heating to work with maximum efficiency. However, there is one thing! At the end of the heating season, your coil will be cold and no use will come from a warm floor. This scheme connection is not ideal.

Underfloor heating works better when connected to a heated towel rail connected to the hot water supply of the bathroom. Here you need to select a pipe for the water circuit of the correct diameter, accurately calculate the length of the pipeline, the heated area and choose the correct connection method. It is better to take metal-plastic pipes for a warm floor, with a diameter of 16 mm.

The installation process itself is quite simple and straightforward. All work consists in connecting (insert) to the main pipe (riser) of the water floor circuit. The new pipe will go to the floor, and return back to the coil. Be sure to install a starting valve at the tie-in point, with which you can adjust the flow intensity, turn on and off your additional heating. This option is the simplest and cheapest, but provided that the pressure in the pipes is within normal limits.

Underfloor heating, as usual, is not much different from traditional practice. The water circuit pipe is laid into the substrate with a certain step. The bending radius of the pipe should be minimal to ensure the normal flow of the coolant throughout the system. If you cannot do with one circuit in the bathroom, you will have to use a manifold. With this device, you can not only connect a larger number of water circuits, but also accurately regulate the water supply and the heating temperature of the heating floor. You can install a circulation pump for reliability, however, the profitability of your miniature heating system will be minimal.

Conclusion. What problems can you face

Use central heating and DHW system for installation of a warm floor - the phenomenon is rare and is rather an exception to the rule. The efficiency of your design directly depends on how centralized communication systems work. The pressure drop in the system, the deterioration of the quality of the coolant affects the permeability of the water circuit.

You should also be aware of possible emergencies. As a result of a rupture of the heating circuit pipe due to water hammer, the resulting leak will have to be eliminated immediately. This will require not only tile, but also to dismantle the section of the screed. It is highly likely that if the integrity of the water circuit is violated, you will flood your neighbors from below.

It should be remembered! A hot towel warmer will be a problem for you. The absence of a heating regulator in this case will become an obstacle for you to set a comfortable temperature in the bathroom. An overheated floor will dry out a small bathroom. Interruptions with hot water in apartment buildings, the phenomenon is quite frequent, so it is not necessary to rely on the constant normal operation of the underfloor heating.

A collector and a temperature control sensor will help to partially solve the problems, but then your heating system will go beyond the planned budget.

Water heated floor from hot water

Consider how this is done in a bathroom apartment.

As you know, the apartment has common water supply risers. And in apartments, you can usually install a warm water floor from a hot riser. See diagram:

This connection is not prohibited by law and any rules! Feel free to do it!

Disadvantages:

Conditions and required parameters:

1. Use oversized pipe. For example, metal-plastic 20mm. It is better not to use a 16mm pipe, as a situation may turn out when there will be little pressure in the hot water tap, and the water will run slowly.

2. The length of the pipe should be as short as possible. Do not exceed 20 meters. I recommend 150mm spacing.

3. It is desirable to make a concrete screed more economical in order to improve the speed of heating the floor. No more than 5 cm. Lay down thick thermal insulation. Preferably a polystyrene foam plate with a thickness of at least 15mm. With a density of 35 kg/m3.

The diagram shows ball valves: K1, K2, K3.

K2 and K3 - They are repair taps, in cases where smudges have formed in the floor, they can be turned off. Or completely turn off the underfloor heating so that it does not warm.

K1 - Can be used for coarse adjustment of the floor temperature. If this tap is slightly opened, then the flow in the warm field will be slightly less and the floor temperature will decrease. If it is closed, then the efficiency of the floor will be maximum.

It is better to put a balancing valve in place of K2, but they can be 10 times more expensive. Therefore, it is better to adjust the valve K1 a little bit and you can achieve the desired setting.

That's all, if it's not clear, write questions, I will definitely answer!

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Underfloor heating from hot water in the apartment - Autonomous house

Do you want to install underfloor heating from central heating? This is real! Let's take a look at all the points regarding the installation of such floors in apartments with central heating. In principle, it is allowed to use water floor heating where the heating circuit is implemented by a special wiring. Where there is one main coolant in the entire apartment, distributed throughout all rooms and large sizes return pipeline. Accordingly, if you have heat meters installed, then you can safely count on the installation of warm water floors in your apartment.

Scheme of a warm water floor

The only thing to remember is that a sufficient amount of heat is allocated completely to the entire apartment. Otherwise, a situation may arise when the energy consumption is more than expected, which can significantly upset the balance of heat energy exchange between neighboring apartments. But such a destabilization of the balance can be eliminated by regulators, which, in turn, causes the underfloor heating system from the central heating to consume a dosed amount of water volume.

When is it forbidden to install underfloor heating in an apartment?

It is forbidden to install underfloor heating from heating, if you thereby destabilize the warm and hydraulic balance between neighboring apartments along the joint heating riser. In other words, this is when each room has a separate heating riser.

If so, it is strictly forbidden to install warm water floors, as this can lead to the fact that your water heated floor connected to this riser is able to take away the temperature so much that it will significantly reduce the heat that passes to other apartments using this riser. But, practically and theoretically, water heated floors can be installed anywhere and anywhere, the main thing is that the balance of the water flow is not disturbed, and the conditions for dispensing heat consumption are observed.

Underfloor heating installation schemes where its use is prohibited

Let's take a look at those schemes, thanks to which they install underfloor heating directly in the apartment.

Cheap and cheerful

Here we will consider the option of installing underfloor heating, where it is forbidden to install water heated floors. To use this scheme, it is necessary to use a very weak pump (Flow rate - 5-10 l / min, pipeline - 16mm, pipeline length - no more than 70 meters). This scheme has one drawback - such floors are practically not regulated. Also, if there are small heat losses of the floor, then as a result, you can get very cold radiators.

Scheme with balancing adjustment

The installation diagram of a warm water floor shows a balancing valve, due to which the flow rate in the water heated floor is reduced, which means that the temperature of these floors can be reduced. In order to reduce the temperature of the water heated floor, you need to open the balancing valve to the appropriate pass.

Reduced Influence heat consumption

"K2" - a three-way valve with a temperature-sensitive mechanism. It gives a constantly unchanging temperature at point "3". In other words, if your water heating floor consumes a large amount of energy, this creates a high probability of causing almost cold water to enter the riser. Which, in turn, can cool the radiators down the riser in neighboring apartments.

Scheme of a warm water floor with a three-way valve

Such a three-way valve can be purchased at specialized plumbing equipment stores. It is called: "Mechanical three-way mixing valve for water supply with thermostat". That is, the presented valve is necessary for us in automatic mode, in order to regulate temperature regime flow of hot water in the circuit of the warm water floor of the apartment.

Three-way valve

In the presented scheme, you need to adjust the tap so that at point "3" there is a warm, very high temperature. But if the warm floor from the central heating will heat very little, you can lower the temperature of the valve, thereby increasing heat loss in the warm field. Here, to adjust the floor temperature, you can use the balancing valves "K1" and "K2". If it suddenly happens that the radiator starts to cool down below set temperature, then the temperature will not pass into your warm floor. The circulation in the warm floor will simply stop.

Scheme for discerning consumers

K1 "- bypass balancing valve. "K2" and "K3" - differently connected three-way valves. The KZ damper is used to stabilize the temperature of the warm floor from the central heating by the method of return temperature from the circuit. It is this scheme that allows you to make the so-called "climate control". If it gets hot in your room, it will reduce the flow of hot water in the underfloor heating circuit, reducing the amount of heat energy released into the room accordingly. The warmer the room, the faster the hot water passes through the circuit and cools less and reaches the temperature-sensitive element of the three-way valve, which, in turn, does not allow the liquid to flow at a very significant rate.

The structure of the bypass balancing unit

The "K1" valve is necessary for working in a closed circuit of the warm water floor of your apartment. Such a valve can reduce or completely shut off the flow of the circuit so that it can cause very favorable operation for the pump in use. Therefore, this valve is necessary in order to balance the flow for the pump. It is worth remembering that the pump is operated on a closed circuit, which can cause it to overheat, and therefore increase power consumption, and the “K1” valve is essentially a regulator of the hot water pressure of the circuit. The higher the pressure of hot water, the faster it will go along the entire contour of the warm floors.

Underfloor heating installation schemes where its use is allowed

Now consider the option that must be used in apartments where it is allowed to use such heating, the water-heated floor of which will become the main source of heat.

A balancing valve or flow regulator must be installed at the inlet of the mixing unit. Of course, the second option is better. Such a valve will regulate the required energy consumption, and consequently the temperature in the room. It is also possible to supply an autovalve to stabilize the differential operating pressure, which is also capable of stabilizing the flow. Such heating with a water-heated floor is able to provide heat to the entire apartment, provided it is correct installation and subsequent operation.

The consumption of hot water for water heating, the underfloor heating of which is the main source of energy, should be so minimal as not to increase the normalized consumption of water that was used before the installation of the underfloor heating system.

If you increase this expense, then the relevant services will immediately know about it. It is worth using the special schemes described above and not increasing the flow rate of the coolant, as this can spoil the normalized flow of hot water in the radiators of your neighbors.

Underfloor heating from central heating, water heating at home Underfloor heating from central heating. Various schemes for connecting a warm floor to a central heating system. Description of the main nodes.

Source: centro-pol.ru

For a bathroom, liquid floor heating is the best option. There are several ways to carry out a warm floor from hot water supply in the bathroom: connect to a heating riser or to a heated towel rail if, of course, it functions from a heating system. The same principle is relevant for other types of premises.

Water floor: pros and cons

The most basic drawback that encourages abandoning liquid heating is that a permit is required for a water-heated floor in an apartment, and it is also a laborious process that requires duplication and high material consumption (but then these costs justify themselves). However, if a team of experienced craftsmen is involved in the work, then they solve all these issues on their own, including obtaining permission. And entrusting communications to private dubious persons is dangerous in every sense.

The negative side should also be attributed to the fact that there is a high probability of pipe leakage. The Colmart online store only offers quality goods, made in Italy, Austria, Germany, which exclude such problems. All products come with a manufacturer's warranty.

Benefits of underfloor heating

As for the advantages, they significantly exceed their disadvantages. Liquid principle heating is the most beneficial in comparison with other types, even if a warm floor is installed in an apartment with individual heating.

Underfloor heating from hot water in the apartment - comfort, warmth, savings Underfloor heating from hot water in the apartment - comfort, warmth, savings. Buy accessories for underfloor heating in the online store Ukraine, Kyiv, Kharkov - colmart.com.ua

Source: colmart.com.ua

Underfloor heating is ideal for space heating, as it evenly distributes heat throughout the room. They can be used as the main source of heat in the house, and as an additional one.

There are two types of underfloor heating: water and electric. The former are heated by the circulation of hot water, the latter work as heating appliances. In this article we will look at how to make a water heated floor.

In what rooms can it be installed?

Water heated floor

Installation of a warm floor can be done in any room, but it must be taken into account that any system of warm floors dries the air, so residents will not feel comfortable in rooms with poor ventilation.

This problem is easily solved with the help of a humidifier, but it is still not recommended to install them in bedrooms, because fresh and cool air is needed for normal sleep. Underfloor heating is great for bathrooms and kitchens, as there is enough ventilation and humidity.

Room preparation

In the room where the installation is planned, the old floor covering is removed.

It should be remembered that when all the work is completed, the floor level will rise by 5-7 centimeters, so the door frames will also need to be raised. In the bathroom, an old screed is being disassembled, under which, most likely, there will be a filler (expanded clay, for example).

When making a new fill, experts advise making it a couple of centimeters lower than the general floor level. To do this, you can make a smooth transition or step.

This is done with the aim that in case of flooding of the bath, water will not enter other rooms in the apartment. If the bathroom has waterproofing, then it can not be removed, but it is better to put it in bags for the time of work.

Preparation of risers for floor installation

If you plan to connect the underfloor heating to the central heating, then the entire riser is not necessary to change at all, since they rarely break. However, it is better to replace the hot water riser with polypropylene pipes, because they are not subject to corrosion.

You need to find out from the plumbers who are servicing your home what kind of riser spill. If the spill is upper, then tap 2 will be the input warm water, and tap 3 exit. With the bottom spill, the placement is done the other way around.

Laying waterproofing

Water flows through the pipes in an underfloor heating system, so, in theory, a leak can occur. Naturally, all manufacturers claim that their products are of high quality and durable, but no one is immune from possible factory defects.

In this regard, waterproofing is done.

On the market are different kinds waterproofing, but it is best to use linokorm insulation or the like for simplicity.

Connecting a warm floor

The insulation is overlapped by 10 centimeters, and the seams are soldered with a blowtorch or a building dryer. On the walls, it should go above the level of the warm floor. It is recommended to prime the bottom of the wall in order to better solder.

Pouring a rough screed

If the flooring in the apartment lies directly on the floor slabs, or the future floor will be no higher than 10 centimeters above the level of the slabs, then you will need to make a rough screed.

With the help of a level around the perimeter of the room, markings are made. After that, the highest point of the plates is determined and the level of the rough screed is marked from it.

The level should be 7 centimeters lower than the finished floor. This level depends on the diameter of the pipes. So, if the diameter is 16 millimeters, then the screed is made by 5 centimeters, the diameter is 25 millimeters - the screed is at least 7 centimeters.

Basically, a rough screed is made from a mixture of expanded clay and cement-based mortar. If the size of the room is not large, then it is not necessary to install beacons, and they are guided by the marks on the walls. The mixture is leveled by a long rule. With large areas of the premises, beacons will still have to be installed.

Note! To level the mixture, you can use any object of sufficient length.

As experience shows, it is quite difficult to mix the mortar and expanded clay. Expanded clay dust, mixing with the solution, makes it less durable, and for a normal screed, you will need a large amount of such a solution.

In this regard, it is better to do a rough screed in a different way.

Heaps of mortar are poured and paint beacons are placed on them. If the distance from the base plates to the floor is large, then heaps can be poured onto previously laid bricks. Further, below the level of the lighthouses, expanded clay is poured and leveled. After that, a welded mesh is laid down and a screed is poured.

Pipe laying

Filling contours with concrete

Before laying the pipes, a flooring is made of foil insulation, which acts as a heat shield. The joints of the sheets are glued with aluminum tape. The edges of the insulation should go 4 centimeters on the walls.

Bending of pipes is carried out by a spring into which pipes are inserted. However, this should be done carefully, since it is strictly forbidden to bend the pipes. Pipes are attached to the screed using special plastic fasteners.

Fittings are put on the pipe outlets, and the connection is lubricated with a sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees Celsius. Further, the fittings are attached to the risers with special collapsible connections. All threaded connections are assembled on flax, as this is the most durable material.

Trial run of the system

After the sealant dries, test run the underfloor heating. To remove air from the system, use the Mayevsky crane. If the system is powered by a riser, then use a hot water tap.

This is done in the following sequence: taps 1 and 2 are opened, and tap 3 is closed. Next, the hot water tap is turned off and time is given for it to glass. After that, the first valve is closed, and the third one is opened.

Thus, the system is under pressure for several days to check the strength of all connections and that there are no leaks anywhere. After the test run, the entire system is turned off, the taps are turned off in reverse order, and time is given for it to cool down.

Finishing screed pouring

The finishing screed is poured in the same way as the rough screed: a masonry mesh is laid down, beacons are placed, and pouring is carried out. If a worm screed was made, then it is not necessary to lay the masonry mesh. When preparing the screed, make sure that its surface is even.

After the screed has dried, use a construction float to eliminate all irregularities on the surface. Next, let the screed dry completely.

Note! A well-dried screed acquires a light gray color.

Conclusion

In order not to depend on utilities, connect the system to a hot water supply riser. The ball valve is used to prevent mixing of technical and drinking water.

How to make a water-heated floor: connection diagram How to make a water-heated floor yourself? What you should pay attention to? Tips, tricks, technology

Source: polexpert.ru

What do you need to know?

First of all, decide on the type of underfloor heating. They can be of two types:

• electrical

Where to use which and why?

Warm floors as the main and additional type of heating are most often used:

• in country cottage or dacha

• in an apartment building

In a private house, you are your own boss and are free to choose any type, option and any heating scheme. There are no restrictions here. But in the apartment there are already nuances and restrictions.

In the apartment it can be taken from two sources:

The radiator heating system is inconvenient for two factors:

Accordingly, your heated floors will be idle for most of the year.

First, it's not cheap. And secondly, it takes up significant space in the room.

Theoretically, you can connect, but you need to provide enough low temperature for warm floors. A direct connection will be accompanied by a temperature of 70 degrees and above, and this will simply overheat the flooring.

You will not be able to legally formalize your connection in any instances. And if such a fact is revealed during the check, you can easily run into a fine. Plus, they will force you to dismantle everything at your own expense.

Therefore, most competent specialists do not recommend installing water-heated floors in an apartment building:

• from heating systems inconvenient

Of course, you can also come up with an autonomous container with water, but do not forget that the rules prohibit placing “wet zones” above the living quarters of neighbors. And a water-heated floor will just be considered such a zone. Unless you live on the ground floor.

The only option left is electric underfloor heating.

But if you have a private house, then there is already a richer choice. It is possible to stop both on electric heating, and on water. But what is the best choice?

Many still in such a situation make their choice in favor of water heated floors. This is explained by the fact that people are afraid of the influence of electromagnetic radiation on the body, which supposedly have electric heated floors.

Meanwhile, all manufacturers have long been required to have certificates and papers confirming the safety of their products. All heating cables are shielded.

If we take into account how many WiFi, GSM and other networks are around us, then electric floors are not the biggest evil. However, most of this does not convince them that they are right.

In their opinion, for the bathroom it might also work, but if this is the main heating in all rooms, then any headaches or illnesses will automatically be recorded about electric underfloor heating.

Well, the second important point is the absolute maintainability of water floors anywhere. Moreover, you can make such repairs yourself, at home.

In case of damage to the heating cable of the electric mat, you will either have to rip off the entire tile and change it entirely, or call specialists with equipment for burning, and searching for a short circuit location with a thermal imager, followed by installation of couplings.

Moreover, the search for some accidents, even for them, can cause certain insoluble difficulties.

Therefore, safety and maintainability are the two factors that incline for many the choice in favor of water-heated floors as the main source of heating. The electric option, however, remains only as an additional source of heat.

But the factors that can scare away from water heated floors:

You need a boiler, a mixing unit, a collector and much more, without which electric heating can easily be dispensed with.

• constant revision work

Water replacement, scale on heating elements, pump breakdowns, leaks from low-quality pipes. In short, many water floor installers earn many times more, and not only with their laying, but also with further maintenance.

Naturally, it is beneficial for them to convince their customers about the dangers of electricity and warm floors based on them.

Personally, your choice should depend on two variables:

• budget for installation and necessary aftercare

If there are no problems with this, then go ahead to the store for water floors.

• lack of prejudice and faith in modern technology

If this is about you, then an electric underfloor heating is exactly what you need.

The two most popular varieties are:

Infrared film

What should I pay attention to when choosing an infrared film?

It is a sheet with soldered copper conductors. Between them with a very small gap, current coal paths are laid, which are the heating element.

First of all, look at the contacts. They must be soldered.

If they are made with pistons, such a connection is extremely unreliable. Excessive heating will occur here, creating a potential fire site.

The film acts as a separator between the underfloor heating base and the decorative coating. Therefore, it cannot be laid where the screed will be poured.

It won't fit under tiles. But it's perfect for:

If a heating cable is laid under the same materials, then due to the distance between the turns (laying pitch), you will clearly feel the boundary between heat and cold - a thermal zebra.

The film heats the entire surface evenly. True, some are afraid that with such heating of the laminate, harmful substances will be released from it. And so you need to buy a special product labeled "for a warm floor."

This is not true. The sun heats up the laminate much more when it shines directly through the window. And nothing harmful comes out of it.

There are also concerns about the dryness of the air and the dust that warm floors inevitably raise up. Here everything depends not on the heating mode, the presence or absence of radiators in the rooms, but on ventilation.

Ensure a regular supply fresh air and there won't be any problems. And if you clog all the windows, then you will suffocate even with central heating batteries.

Approximate calculation of electricity consumption when heating a house with underfloor heating film:

Where is the best place to use heating cable? Where you will have a minimum screed, or tiles with glue - i.e. kitchen and bathroom.

As a rule, after the builders complete the work, there can no longer be any full-fledged screed. The maximum you have is 5-6cm.

If even less, then the choice is unequivocal - only a heating mat. It can be laid directly into the tile adhesive layer.

The disadvantage of an electric underfloor heating is that in addition to your room, you will also warm up the ceiling from below. At your own expense, you will also heat your neighbors.

You have a warm floor, they have a warm ceiling.

Table comparing the efficiency of heating cable and film infrared floors:

Compare current day prices of underfloor heating with heating cable or mats and infrared film.

A cake with water floors should ideally look like this:

• pipes with heat carrier are mounted on this surface

• then in the cake there is an adhesive layer and a tile or other coating

The approximate thickness of the entire plate is 130-140mm. Under this condition, all the heat will be spent on your room, and not go down.

Don't waste your money. In addition, without reinforcement of a thin screed, as a result of the destruction of the foil insulation, subsidence and cracking of the floor covering may occur.

The best solution is to use extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 35 kg / m3 or multifoil as insulation.

The basis of the multifoil is air pockets in the form of tablets or pimples. They are very strong and you won't be able to crush them just like that.

You can easily walk on them for as long as you like. Moreover, the aluminum coating is applied on the reverse side, i. it is not possible to damage and corrode it with a screed.

2 Be sure to use edge insulation.

This is a kind of damper, which is laid along the perimeter of the slab with a warm floor. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the screed, which inevitably occurs when it is heated.

If this is not done, the concrete screed will rest against the walls and it will have two options, either to break these walls themselves, or to break on its own. When pouring, the edge of the damper film should be above the screed, then the excess is cut off.

3 If you have a large pouring area (more than 20m2), it must be separated with a compensation tape.

Since all expansions during heating of such a concrete layer, only flanging cannot compensate.

4 The coil of a warm water floor must be from a single piece of pipe, without joints.

5 Never use compression fittings, i.e. those connections where there are nuts and threads.

None of this should get into your screed.

6 If the customer and the performer are poorly versed in the preparation of solutions, then the recommended height of a full-fledged screed should be 85mm or 7cm from the top wall of the heating element.

This thickness of concrete will help save you from cracking, even with not very high-quality cement.

In addition, 85mm helps with striping (thermal zebra). And finally, this is the inertia of such a screed.

If you have electricity as an energy source, at night at a cheaper rate you can “disperse” the warm floor and not turn on the boiler all day. The stored heat should be enough until the evening.

This mode of heating is approximately 3 times cheaper than usual.

7 Do not save and add a special plasticizer for underfloor heating to the screed.

Ultimately, you need to get concrete that will easily withstand temperature deformation.

8 Reinforcement is done as a last resort.

First of all, when you are forced to pour only 50-60mm of screed instead of 85mm. But if possible this should be avoided.

9 No holes need to be cut into the substrate before concrete base, ostensibly for a quality hitch.

Even if this coupling occurs, everything will come off when the plate is first heated. The underfloor heating slab, figuratively speaking, should "float" without connection with the base and with the walls.

10 Do not pour mortar with empty floor pipes.

The system must be filled and the pressure must be 3 bar. This is primarily due to the need to preserve the geometry and shape of the pipe. Without pressure inside, it is easy to crush.

Water or electric underfloor heating - 10 mistakes and installation rules Installation rules for water and electric underfloor heating. Heating cable and film - efficiency comparison. Is el.magnetic radiation safe from underfloor heating? The thickness of the screed is 85mm, why?

Source: domikelectrica.ru

The popularity of heating systems, organized on the modern principle of floor heating, is constantly growing. In many countries, this technology has already become prevalent, and "heat-insulated floors", having displaced the usual radiator schemes, are included in the projects of multi-storey buildings and are installed immediately, as the building is erected. This is due to the advantages of such heating in terms of creating the most comfortable conditions for people to live or work - there is uniform heating from the bottom up with an optimal temperature distribution and without creating pronounced horizontal movements of air masses.

Underfloor heating water wiring diagrams in the apartment

Such obvious advantages of such a heating system make many owners of houses and city apartments think - is it worth switching to it? When considering possible options, very often electric floor heating is treated with a certain prejudice, which is explained by the high cost of electricity, and the water "warm floor" will clearly win in terms of operating efficiency. This is complemented by the fact that water heating pipes have already been laid in the apartment, and the temptation is very great to simply connect floor heating circuits to them. Probably, this explains the fact that in the top of search queries on the network on heating topics there is always one such as “warm floors, water wiring diagrams in an apartment”.

However, you must immediately warn the owner of the apartment who wants to switch to water floor heating - not everything is so simple. The system itself is quite complex and requires large-scale work. And in the conditions of high-rise buildings, the number of obstacles to the successful implementation of such a project increases many times over. Moreover, these problems are very versatile - both technological and administrative in nature.

However, subject to certain conditions, such a possibility exists. But first, perhaps, we should get acquainted with the difficulties that will inevitably have to be overcome. It is possible that, having seen the prospect and assessed the scale of the activities that will need to be done, some apartment owners will still decide to stop at an easier-to-install and safer operation of the electric “warm floor” system.

Do I need to coordinate the project with utilities?

In the event that the owner of the apartment intends to connect his water "warm floor" system to the existing central heating system, he will almost certainly face a number of administrative problems.

Heating of a multi-storey building is a complex branched system, which was calculated in advance by specialists, and its possibilities are not unlimited. When designing it, the power of the boiler house or local heat point, the diameters and lengths of pipelines, the degree of their insulation, the required pressure and temperature of the coolant, the layout of apartment wiring and radiator connections, and many other criteria were taken into account. Independent introduction of any changes in the operation of this system can lead to an imbalance, a decrease in overall efficiency.

It is clear that the design is always carried out with the necessary technological reserve, and the connection of one or two underfloor heating circuits, of course, is unlikely to be noticeable on a system scale. But, firstly, there are most likely a lot of people who are sorry to embed this type of heating. And secondly, what is hardly noticeable in the volume of the entire local system may well be felt on the scale of an entrance or a specific riser. Connecting additional circuits, which usually have a very considerable length, can be affected by a drop in the temperature of the coolant in the neighbors' radiators. Surely, this will end with complaints about the work of the thermal power industry, and those who are looking for a reason will definitely find it, and unauthorized connection will lead to serious administrative measures.

There is only one way out - to go through the procedure of coordination with the management company or with the suppliers of thermal energy. But whether they will give such permission is a big question.

In this case, the owners of apartments located at the very end of the heating riser are in an advantageous position. For example, with a lower supply, this will become the upper floor, and if the coolant is supplied from above in the riser (this happens more often), then residents of the apartments on the first floor will be more likely to enlist permission. The selection of thermal energy for floor heating will not affect the radiators of the neighbors in the riser.

But this, again, does not mean at all that other technical conditions will not be put forward by public utilities. So, almost certainly they will demand the obligatory installation of an individual heat consumption meter.

When agreeing on the connection, you will need to install an individual metering device for consumed heat energy

You may receive a proposal from public utilities to organize your heating system according to a semi-autonomous principle. In this option, the coolant from the central system will not be used for circulation through the "warm floor" pipes - the circuit is completely closed. And the transfer of thermal energy received from the boiler. Occurs through a special device - a heat exchanger installed on the supply pipe.

Heat extraction can also take place through a heat exchanger

Of course, in this case, it will be necessary to install additional equipment to organize the circulation of the coolant and prevent emergency situations. In addition, such a scheme also does not relieve the owners of the need to purchase and install a meter for consumed heat energy.

Many problems can be avoided if you decide to completely transfer your apartment to autonomous heating. A similar trend is gaining popularity - the owners refuse heating and hot water services and install their own electric or gas boiler.

More and more owners of city apartments are trying to switch to full autonomy in matters of heating and hot water supply

Here, too, coordination with housing maintenance companies is required, but it is already of a slightly different kind. But on the other hand, the owner of an autonomous system gets freedom in choosing the number and type of radiators, “warm floor” circuits, convectors, etc. Heat metering devices in this option will not be required - only the costs of the energy carrier - gas or electricity - will be paid.

It cannot be said that the problems of apartment owners will end there - they will face many technological difficulties. But in this or that way they are nevertheless solved.

The key issue is the laying of "underfloor heating" pipes in a city apartment

If the administrative stage has been successfully passed, permission to connect has been received or complete autonomy of the heating and hot water supply system has been ensured, then it is time to move on to a phased solution to the problems of laying the "warm floor" contours. Here it is necessary to determine the possible height of the floor level, with the method of closing the contours, in such a way as not to exceed the permissible load on the interfloor ceilings. A very important point is the high-quality thermal insulation of the structure being created, the reliability and durability of pipes and their connections. And, of course, at this stage it is necessary to deal with the optimal laying scheme, the length of the contours, the step of their laying.

Possible obstacles - raising the floor level and weighting the structure

The first thing to do is to assess how much the floor level in the apartment will rise after the installation of the “warm floor”, and whether this can be allowed under specific conditions. And the increase in thickness is inevitable, and it consists of three factors.

Approximate scheme of the water "warm floor" under the screed

• No one wants to pay money for anything, and therefore it will be necessary to provide a thermal insulation barrier (pos. 1), which will not allow heat to be spent almost in vain, for heating the reinforced concrete slabs of the interfloor floor.

If the premises are located above another heated apartment, then a thermal insulation layer of 25 ÷ 30 mm of expanded polystyrene is usually sufficient. Under the most favorable circumstances, sometimes they are even limited to a rolled foil insulation (made of polyethylene foam) with a thickness of about 5 mm. But if a cold basement or an uninsulated basement is located below, then you will have to use a thermal insulation layer of 50 mm, or even more.

• The efficiency of the “warm floor” is ensured by pouring a screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm (pos. 2). The concrete layer not only closes the pipes of the circuits (pos. 3), but also becomes an element of the entire system that accumulates and evenly distributes heat.

But not only will the screed raise the floor level by another 50 mm. The load on the floor slab increases significantly, and it is imperative to consult whether this is permissible in a house of a particular series.

• And, finally, the thickness of the floor finish itself (pos. 4) cannot be discounted. It, of course, is incomparable with the thickness of the screed, but it can also add 10 ÷ 15 millimeters, or even more, especially if thick ceramic tiles are laid on a layer of glue.

Some problems can be avoided by applying the “warm floor” laying method without a concrete screed. In this case, to increase heat transfer, special metal plates with channels for laying pipes are used.

Heat transfer plate with channel for pipe laying

Such plates can be placed in special modules (wooden or wood composite), in insulating mats of a special design, or you can make a wooden floor structure on logs, as shown in the figure:

Water "warm floor" on a wooden base without screed

Between the lags installed on the base floor base and aligned horizontally (pos. 1), thermal insulation material (pos. 2) is laid. Boards (pos. 3) are stuffed on top with a step that ensures the laying of heat-exchange metal plates (pos. 4). Pipes of the “warm floor” contour (pos. 5) are laid in the channels of the plates, and then the entire structure is covered from above with sheets of plywood, OSB, drywall, etc. (pos. 6) - this will become the basis for laying the finish coat.

This method of laying somewhat loses to the screed in terms of heat transfer efficiency. However, this way you can win precious millimeters of height, and prevent excessive loads on the floor.

But in any case, raising the floor level cannot be avoided. So, you should evaluate possible solutions in advance and make the right choice.

Now let's go through the main components for laying the "warm floor" circuit - insulation mats and the pipes themselves.

Choice of insulation mats

• As already mentioned, in almost ideal conditions (the building itself and the ceilings in particular already have highly efficient insulation, and a well-heated room is located below), roll materials can be used, for example, "penofol".

A roll of foil insulation based on polyethylene foam

In this case, the laying of the contour can be carried out with tying the pipe loops to a pre-laid reinforcing metal stack, or using special mounting rails with grooves for pipes.

• If better insulation is required, then foam polystyrene mats are used (best of all - extrusion).

Folding polystyrene foam mat with marking lines

Such a heater can be in the form of separate plates, but it is better to purchase special mats that are laid out like an "accordion" or "tractor caterpillar". Very often, a grid is applied on such products, which will greatly facilitate the process of marking and laying out the contour. The foil surface will reflect heat towards the room, increasing the overall effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Fixing the pipe on the mounting rail and with a plastic clamp

Fixing pipes to such mats can also be carried out to a reinforcing mesh or using mounting rails, or special clamps with harpoon tips are used, which securely hold the pipe in a given place.

• However, the best, albeit expensive, solution would be to purchase special profile foam polystyrene mats for a water “warm floor”. The protrusions placed on their surface - bosses allow you to quickly and reliably fix the contour loops without the use of any additional accessories.

Profile mat with bosses and polymer coating

The optimal choice is polymer-coated profile mats with locking protrusions (shown by arrows in the figure). When laying, a solid surface is obtained, which becomes an excellent waterproofing. Thus, three problems are solved at once - insulation, the creation of a waterproofing barrier and the simplification of the pipe laying process. In addition, there is no need for additional reinforcement of the screed - the protruding bosses themselves perform this role.

Heat transfer plates fit well in the profile mat

By the way, such mats can also be used if it is decided to do without a screed. Heat exchange plates are installed between the bosses, and the circuit pipes are already pricked into them.

The choice of pipes for "warm floor"

There should be no simplifications in this matter - the contours are mounted for a long time, hidden by a screed and an external coating, that is, it is necessary to have a guarantee of the safety and tightness of pipes and their connections. Any, even a minor leak, can lead to catastrophic consequences and large-scale repairs with a mandatory opening of the floor.

What are the requirements for pipe contours:

• Pipes made using suture technology are not allowed.
• It is impossible to place pipe connections in the thickness of the floor - the circuit must be made from one solid bay. There are, however, exceptions - this will be discussed below.
• Resistance to corrosion, to possible aggressive chemical effects of the coolant, to the formation of scale or lime deposits on the inner walls. Ideally, pipes should also resist oxygen diffusion - many modern models provide for this function.
• Thermal and mechanical strength margin. The pipe material should not be afraid of elevated coolant temperatures and withstand a pressure of at least 8 ÷ 10 atmospheres.
• The pipes must have a smooth inner surface - to reduce the hydraulic resistance of the circuit and so that the coolant flow through them is not accompanied by noise.

Based on these criteria, VGP steel pipes are immediately excluded - they are seam, and they cannot be used without creating joints.

Surely, the temptation to use polypropylene pipes is great, as they are inexpensive and easy to install. However, in our case, they cannot be used. Firstly, they have a large coefficient of linear expansion when heated. And secondly, the assembly of the circuit will require a very large number of welded joints. Although well-welded polypropylene joints are highly reliable, narrowing of the conditional passage is possible in these places, accumulations of solid precipitation, and the numerous rectangular turns themselves lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance, which is unacceptable in the contours of a warm floor.

So, the choice can be made from the following types of pipes:

Special processing of polyethylene, which has a linear molecular structure, creates numerous cross-links (“crosslinking”, which will give the material completely new qualities. Pipes made of such cross-linked polyethylene are distinguished by excellent flexibility and strength, easily withstand temperature changes, and are not afraid of freezing.

PE-Xa XLPE Pipe Coil

The best performance indicators are for the material marked PE-Xa - they have the highest degree of crosslinking, up to 90%. And if they are supplemented with a special layer that excludes oxygen diffusion, then this is even better.

In addition, you can purchase pipes from the most innovative polymer - PE - RT, in which the positive advantages of cross-linked polyethylene, especially in terms of thermal stability, are even more pronounced.

As if specially created for the "warm floor" - light, have good heat dissipation, allow you to lay complex contours with bends (subject to technology). However, one should be careful when choosing them - there are too many shoddy goods on the market that cannot withstand high temperatures and pressure surges.

In addition, the aluminum layer can be very unstable to oxygen corrosion, and this leads to delamination of the pipe and the loss of its qualities. Therefore, if metal-plastic pipes are chosen, then attention should be paid to the material of manufacture of the outer and inner layers, and, preferably, to the presence of an oxygen barrier.

Always pay attention to quality metal-plastic pipe

The best option is a pipe with PE-X-polyethylene outside and inside, and a layer of aluminum welded using a special technology.

In terms of the degree of heat transfer and the durability of operation, such pipes, probably, have no rivals.

Stacked contour from copper pipe

The plasticity of the metal allows you to perform contours of any level of complexity. Copper is not afraid of corrosion, water hammer, critical temperatures. The only thing that stops its mass use is a very high price.

Another modern approach is the use of corrugated stainless pipes. Their high flexibility is an excellent quality for laying the contour, and the resistance to corrosion, further enhanced by the internal polymer coating, guarantees a long service life.

Modern stainless steel corrugated pipes show themselves perfectly

In addition - this is the only exception to the rule that allows you to make butt joints under the floor surface - this is ensured by the highest reliability of standard fittings. And, despite the fact that the maximum length in the bay is 50 m, they can be safely used for laying even longer contours.

The only drawback in using such material is the very high price.

We decide on the scheme of laying the contour

In order for the water "warm floor" in the apartment to be really effective, it is necessary to follow certain rules for laying its contours.

• There are two main laying patterns - this is a "snake" or "snail". But they can be combined and combined in various variations. Basic schemes are shown in the figure:

Basic schemes for laying contours

a - "snail". It is considered the most appropriate in terms of uniform heat distribution. It has a more complex installation process.

b - "snake". It is easier to install, but it has a pronounced drawback - heat is distributed zonally.

c - a variation of the "snake" with a double entry. The distribution of heat over the area is more uniform, but there are pronounced bands.

• In order to prevent unnecessary heat consumption for heating wall structures, the contours are laid at a distance of no closer than 300 mm to them.
• One of the defining parameters of the contour is its laying step, that is, the distance between adjacent pipes in the loop. Usually this value lies in the range from 80 mm (it is impossible to do less, since the bending radius of the pipes will not allow) and up to 300 mm (they don’t do it anymore, because the “zebra effect” appears - pronounced stripes of warm and cold coating).

The laying step largely depends on how it is planned to use the "warm floor" - whether it will be the only source of heat, or should it work in conjunction with radiators. In addition, for living rooms, a surface heating temperature of up to 29 ° C is required (if natural wood or parquet is used as a finish coat - up to 27 ° C), while in the bathroom. in the kitchen, in the bathroom, finished with ceramic tiles, in the hallway it is already 33 ° C.

• Heating radiators are not in vain installed near window openings - they create a kind of curtain, minimizing heat loss. This should also be taken into account when drawing up a "warm floor" scheme - to provide for a denser laying in areas with maximum heat loss - near windows and along external walls. And here there can be a very large number of variations of the "drawings" of the contour.

The laying scheme is best depicted immediately on a scale in the drawing - diagram. This will also help in the process of installing the circuit, and will allow you to calculate in advance the required number of pipes.

The contour length can be calculated using the formula:

L - the length of the contour in a certain area.

k - coefficient taking into account pipeline bends.

Thus, if the laying step is uniform over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, then the calculation is made at once for the entire contour. If there are selected sections with compacted laying, then calculate the length of the pipe for each, and then summarize.

To make things easier, you can use the calculator below:

Calculator for calculating the length of the pipes of the "warm floor" circuit

To the value obtained, the direct supply and return sections must be added, as well as the necessary “mounting ends” for connecting to the manifold.

• It should be remembered that the contour cannot be unlimited. The hydraulic resistance may become higher than the pressure of the coolant, and the circuit will simply “close”. So, if a pipe is used Du16, then it should be limited to a length of 70 - 80 m (optimally - up to 60 m), with Du20 - no more than 100 m (80 m). If, as a result of the calculations, it turns out that a longer circuit is needed, it will have to be divided into two, with a separate connection of each to the collector. In this case, it is desirable to achieve an approximately equal length of both - a difference of no more than 20% is acceptable.

At the same time, if it is planned to fill the “warm floor” with a screed, a technological break in the coating is necessarily made between different circuits with the installation of a damper tape in it. The same tape, to compensate for thermal expansion, should be laid along the walls around the entire perimeter of the room.

Equipment necessary for the functioning of the "warm floor" in the apartment

It is naive to believe that laying pipe contours already solves all problems - they say, it remains to connect them to the supply and return lines, and everything will work right away. Nothing of the kind - the performance of such a system will be a big question. In addition, it is necessary to solve a number of other technological problems:

• The liquid will always choose the path of least hydraulic resistance, and in order to make it circulate along a long pipe circuit, it will be necessary to install special equipment - pump unit.
• Devices are required to release accumulated air in order to avoid gas locks.
• The pressure created in the system must be equalized in order to ensure the circulation of the coolant with the most efficient heat transfer, without stagnation and with the elimination of the possibility of water hammer.
• The temperature level in heating radiators and in the "warm floor" circuits is completely different. If in the central system the heating can reach 80 degrees, then for floor heating this is completely unacceptable. Such temperatures will create an uncomfortable environment in the room, and will have a destructive effect on the state of the insulation screed, and will lead to deformation of the floor covering.

Typically, the temperature of the heat carrier in the “warm floor” circuits is maintained within the limits of 35 ÷ 40, maximum 50 ° C. Thus, it is required to install a special unit that will mix the heat carrier from the supply and return to achieve the required level of heating of the floor surface.

Scheme of mixing hot and cooled coolant flows in a simple three-way valve

• The coolant in the system must be clean, so the installation of appropriate filters will not interfere, especially if water from the central heating system is used.
• To visually monitor the parameters of the system - the pressure in the circuit and the temperature level, you will need the appropriate instruments, a pressure gauge and a thermometer.
• The system must be safe to operate - without this condition, permission to install it simply will not be obtained. In addition, if you plan to connect to central risers, then the created "heat-insulated floors" in no way should interfere with the regular operation of the heating system of the entire building.

By the way, with this approach, no one will be allowed to show excessive independence. Most likely one of the typical schemes connections to the central system. For example, such as shown in the figure:

One of the typical schemes for connecting a "warm floor" to the wiring of the heating system

This is exactly the option that has already been mentioned - the apartment is located last in the heating supply riser in the entrance.

An inlet valve (pos. 1) is installed at the entrance to the dedicated system, it is not shown in the diagram, but it is recommended to place an “oblique” mud filter here in order to prevent impure coolant from entering the distribution equipment and the “warm floor” circuits themselves.

At the outlet of the system, a check valve (pos. 2) and a shut-off valve are installed.

The temperature of the heat carrier in the "warm floor" circuits in this case is set by a three-way valve (pos. 3). This can be a device with manual setting of the required mixing level, or a more modern one with a servo drive that receives a control signal from a temperature sensor at the inlet to the supply manifold (shown by a green dotted line).

Three-way valves - manually operated (left), and equipped with a servo

To ensure circulation, a pump (pos. 4) is installed, which, in terms of its performance and the generated pressure, must correspond to the total indicators of all circuits connected to the collector.

A bypass valve (pos. 5) is installed on the bypass between the collectors, which equalizes, if necessary, pressure drops to the required value.

The collectors themselves must have air vents (pos. 6) and drain cocks (pos. 7)

In the event that the underfloor heating system is connected directly to both pipes - both to the high-temperature supply and to the return (this mainly happens with a completely autonomous apartment heating system, or upon obtaining the appropriate permission for a tie-in to the central one), then other wiring diagrams:

The general adjustment is also made using the balancing valves on the bypass (pos. 3) and on the return (pos. 4). The bypass valve (pos. 5) provides the required pressure drop for normal circulation.

The scheme is far from perfect, quite difficult to accurately balance.

The scheme is simple and quite effective, but the mixing quality in it is “lame”.

Both the temperature of the coolant in the "warm floor" circuits and the pressure level can be finely adjusted.

Installed two-way valve and two control valves.

But there is one important difference from all the previously considered schemes - the mandatory presence of a separate expansion tank (pos. 13) and its own “safety group” (pos. 12) in which the safety valve plays the most important role.

Expansion tank and "safety group" are mandatory if the heat transfer is via a heat exchanger

If it is planned to connect several circuits of a warm floor, then it is necessary to provide for their mutual balancing. If this is not observed, then the coolant will find a path of least hydraulic resistance, and in other circuits the circulation will either be unacceptably small, or, in general, will be interrupted. Endure perfect equal length contours - almost unrealistic, which means that additional adjustment is required.

To do this, taps are installed at each of their outputs and inputs of the collector comb - with their help it will be possible to perform mutual balancing. In addition, these taps will allow you to locally turn off the circuit when it is no longer necessary to use them or for preventive or repair work without disturbing the performance of the rest of the system.

Distribution manifold with thermostats on each connected circuit

Even better, if each of the circuits connected to the collector has its own thermostat. So it will be easier to achieve accurate temperature settings for different rooms.

As an example, the figure shows a diagram of the operation of one of the varieties of collector-adjusting units.

Schematically - the work of the collector assembly

Is it worth it to assemble such a node yourself? In principle, it is quite possible to find all the components for it, and with proper experience in plumbing installation work and assembly does not seem to be an insurmountable obstacle. However, it is still better to purchase a ready-made collector cabinet - both each individual element and their correspondence to each other are important in its design.

In the cabin, you can pick up a ready-made collector assembly for any layout scheme of the "warm floor"

In the assortment of specialized stores, you can find the required model, designed both for a small heating area with two or three "warm floor" circuits, and capable of distributing and adjusting many circuits laid over vast areas of a large apartment or house.

The installation of a manifold cabinet designed for several circuits is usually planned so as to minimize long supply runs. That is, the center of the apartment will be most preferable.

So, in the publication, the main schemes for installing a warm floor in an apartment were considered. When choosing a specific type and calculating the parameters of the system, it is best to contact a qualified specialist - errors in this matter seriously affect the quality of heating and are very difficult to eliminate.

Underfloor heating water wiring diagrams in an apartment - how to choose the optimal one If underfloor heating water wiring diagrams in an apartment are used as heating, they differ in a number of features. Details are in the article.