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Ekibastuz sewerage drawings in private houses. Sewerage device in a private house. Natural treatment station - septic tank with biofilter

In private houses, residents often install sewers with their own hands so that they can live there as comfortably as in a city apartment. However, the townspeople do not even think about how it is located. But the owners country houses, cottages and dachas, you have to study all the information on the arrangement of life support systems in the house.

To answer the question, how to sewer in a private house, the homeowner turns to the Internet space. In this article, we will try to answer this question.

Tools and materials

For the device of the internal system, pipes of 60-70 millimeters in diameter will be needed, in which all points of analysis will be connected to the riser. In addition to pipes, various bends, plugs, tees, revisions, adapters, elbows, sealants and fasteners are purchased.

The principle of operation of a septic tank type Biotank

The sewer riser usually has a larger diameter than other pipes, 100-150 millimeters.

Also useful: set wrenches, hacksaw, measuring instruments and level.

The riser takes over all the waste from the kitchen, toilet and bath, diverting them to a septic tank or other septic tank.

Tees are used to branch off the main pipe, and adapters are used to connect pipes of different diameters. Holes in pipes that are not in use can be closed with plugs.

Types of sewerage

Sewerage wiring in a private house is divided into internal and external works.

The first include the installation of a fan pipe and riser, wiring in the bathroom, in the kitchen and other similar premises.

First of all, in this matter make up the internal scheme. Think about this even at the planning stage of building a house. If it was decided to create it yourself, then you will need several sheets of graph paper, a ruler and a sharp pencil. Wherein:

  • draw up a house plan;
  • decide where the riser and plumbing fixtures will be located;
  • display pipes to the riser and fittings on all floors;
  • determine the dimensions of the riser and the fan pipe;
  • calculate the outer part;
  • draw up its scheme in accordance with the requirements of SanPiN and SNiP.

It is better if the premises with sewerage are located as close to each other as possible. This will make it easier to set up. The system can be the most diverse and in all houses it has its own.

It should be borne in mind that pipes with a diameter of one hundred to one hundred and ten millimeters should be used. For drains from the kitchen and bathroom, PP and PVC pipes with a diameter of fifty millimeters are used. All turns are made with plastic elbows at an angle of 45 degrees, due to which clogging in the pipes is minimized. Pipes made of the above materials are more durable, cheaper and more reliable than cast iron pipes. In addition, the installation of such pipes is much easier.

First determine the location of the riser, then consider further wiring.

To outdoor sewerage includes the entire part outside the house. It is also done differently depending on whether people will live there permanently, how many, the number of plumbing fixtures used, the depth of groundwater, total area, soil type and climate.

The sewer system is installed more than five meters from the house if the drain option is chosen, or more than twenty meters if drainage system. A distance of twenty to fifty meters is maintained to the water intake.

The pipes at the septic tank are insulated so that they do not freeze through in winter. Their diameter should be from ten to eleven centimeters and have a slope of up to five millimeters. The drain well is located below the level of the house. Sewers are:

  • accumulative - sealed containers for drains;
  • treatment - from deep cleaning septic tanks.

Let's take a closer look at the device first. sewer system inside and its installation, and then outside: a cesspool and a container, as well as different types septic tanks.

Sewerage device inside the house

During installation, it must be remembered that sewage drains are a liquid mass, consisting of waste and water, and it flows down the slope. On a horizontal surface, the drains will not move. Therefore, all devices must be above the main outlet and drain.


laying of sewerage during the construction phase

The pipes are plastic. When planning to remove them into the wall, you can install one-piece ones. Plastic will not grow inside, corrosion will not appear on it and it will serve for a long time.

Sewer installation

Installation starts from the far point of the main exit. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the slope of the main pipe. It must be mounted in such a way that it fits exactly with the central outlet, and the pipe retains its drain angle. Do not allow height differences in it, as this will lead to blockages. You should also provide for the installation of special plugs so that when they are opened, it is possible to clean the pipeline from blockage.

Often the central pipe is concreted. This decision depends on the owner, but before that you need to double-check the installation several times. For reinsurance, you can additionally seal the pipe joints with fiberglass or epoxy glue.

The following rules must be followed before laying sewer pipes in a private house:

  • on the main risers apply plastic pipes one hundred and ten millimeters in diameter;
  • all of them are installed with a slight slope to the septic tank or exit from the house;
    vertical pipes are set at an angle of ninety degrees, horizontal branches and tees - at forty-five degrees, and the sockets must be directed against the flow;
  • when installing the main riser, it is imperative to carry out ventilation so that an unpleasant odor does not disturb;
  • first they make the riser itself, and then the wiring, everything is strictly according to a pre-prepared scheme;
  • the exit of the pipe from the house must be at a depth of half a meter, otherwise, the pipe must be insulated;
  • consider an option in case an audit is necessary, for example, in case of blockage.

Cesspool or sealed container

If it is impossible to connect to the central drainage system, you have to build a drain pit or, even better, a septic tank. The pit is dug five meters from the house and two meters from the fence. The distance to the well should be from thirty meters.


plastic septic tank at the stage of arrangement and connection

In addition, sewerage should not be carried out near the water supply. The required distance between them is three meters.

This option is the most budgetary, but the unpleasant moment is the smell emanating from there. Cleaning the structure is also not a pleasure.

The material can be reinforced concrete, concrete or brick. It is also important to carry out high-quality sealing so that feces cannot get into the ground.

The bottom is poured with concrete or bitumen. The ceiling can be made of wood, but the lid must also be sealed with additional bitumen.

The sewer pipe should be close to the pit to a depth of up to a meter. As it is filled, it is cleaned with a sewage machine.

Instead of a cesspool, you can use an airtight container. Buy it or make it yourself. But in this case, you will often need to call the machine for cleaning.

Single and double septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank is somewhat reminiscent of a cesspool. This is a well, at the bottom of which there is rubble, at least thirty centimeters thick, and on top there is a layer of coarse sand. Wastewater enters the well, and then, purified by 50%, into the soil. But the problem is not fundamentally solved.

Therefore, with permanent residence in the house of people, it will not be possible to manage with a single-chamber septic tank. This option is suitable also in case of low groundwater levels. Crushed stone and sand are changed once every four to six months.

A two-chamber septic tank is a combination of overflow settling wells and filter wells.

Such a system is very common and consists of one well with a bottom, and the other without a bottom, but with powders. Drains first fall into one well, where feces and heavy waste sink to the bottom, and fats, on the contrary, float up. At the middle level, where clarified water is formed, an overflow pipe is led into the second well, which is at a slight slope so that water can easily get there. Then it cleans up even better, seeping through the rubble and leaving.

As pollution accumulates in the first well, a sewage machine is called in for cleaning.

Installation of this option is also possible in the case when groundwater is constantly one meter below the bottom of the second well. In this case, the powder can be changed once every five years.

Septic tank with filtration field

If the owner country house is going to acquire a more serious cleaning, then it begins with a septic tank with a filtration field. Its capacity is divided into two, three or more departments, which are connected to each other by overflow pipes.


organization of a septic tank with the withdrawal of purified water to a nearby reservoir

In the first of them, the effluents are settled, in the second - there are anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic matter. Further, through the filters, the water enters the land area, where the soil is cleaned. Thus, the water is purified by eighty percent. The equipment is best installed on sandy or super sandy soil. In other cases, it will be necessary to specially create an artificial field of rubble and sand. At the end, the water is collected in pipes and discharged into ditches. Only a flower bed can be planted on the ground in this place, but not a vegetable garden or a garden.

The system should be installed only if groundwater is below two and a half meters.

Septic tank with biofilter

Installation of this system is possible even if groundwater is located high. The septic tank consists of a tank divided into three to four sections. In the first chamber, the water settles, then it decomposes with the help of anaerobic bacteria. In the third, it is separated, and then, in a chamber with a constant air supply, it is once again decomposed by bacteria. To do this, a pipe is installed in it, which rises fifty centimeters above the ground. Microorganisms are placed on the filter, the pipe of which connects the third and fourth sections. This is the filter field. Only unlike the previous version, it is concentrated and located on a small area inside the septic tank. Cleaning in this case reaches ninety-five percent.

Such water can be safely used for technical needs.

A septic tank is very good for a house where people live permanently. The necessary microorganisms are added simply by flushing them down the toilet. However, if you leave your home for a while, the bacteria will die. And again they will be able to function actively only after half a month of continuous stay.

Septic tank with forced air supply

Such a system is an accelerated and natural cleaning, carried out in an artificial way. This septic tank will require electricity to operate the air pump.

It consists of three interconnected departments. Water from the sewer enters the first section and settles. In the second, in a clarified version, it is mixed with the help of an aeration tank, consisting of plants and microorganisms. Further, in the third sump, the deepest cleaning takes place, and the sludge is pumped back into the second chamber.

The system is expensive and requires electricity and permanent residence.

General rules

The septic tank should be at least five meters from the house, twenty to fifty meters from the water source and ten meters from the garden.


septic tank and drainage system

The house is located eight meters from the filter wells, twenty-five from the filter fields, fifty from the aeration plants and three hundred from the drain stations.

Pipes that go to the septic tank are insulated so that they do not freeze in winter. For this purpose, they are wrapped with thermal insulation material and inserted into asbestos-cement pipes. External wiring is carried out with pipes, with a diameter of up to one hundred and ten millimeters, with a slope of two degrees. Often it is done at five to seven degrees for a margin. But you need to be especially careful with this, since too much slope can lead to blockages, and a smaller one can lead to stagnation of drains.

It is best to lay pipes without turns and corners. On the internal wiring, fifty millimeters of diameter is enough. If there is more than one floor and if there are bathtubs above, the riser should be two hundred millimeters in diameter.

When deciding to install a sewer yourself, be sure to study SanPin and SNiP. In order not to spoil relations with neighbors, initially you need to focus on finding their water sources and structures.

In no case should you proceed with the installation if the sewerage project has not been drawn up and calculated. Everything is done right here. It is best to entrust this work to specialists who will create a detailed design, taking into account every detail of the structure, its location, operation and climatic conditions.

With a high level of groundwater, sewage can be installed in the form of a sealed container for the accumulation of waste, an aeration station or a septic tank with a biofilter.

It is not difficult to conduct sewerage in a private house yourself. It is necessary to dilute the pipes for collecting effluent from various sources, connect them in the collector and lead through the base or under it to the septic tank. You can also do outdoor work with your own hands. But sometimes it is better to resort to the help of an escalator.









Difficult to call comfortable private house, not equipped with a well-thought-out, well-functioning drainage system. It is as much a part of civilized existence as electricity, ventilation and heating. Such an important component of the home communications network is subject to environmental and efficiency requirements; The drainage system of a private house should be simple to arrange and easy to use.

Schematic diagram of sewerage in a private house

One of the main issues of improvement is sewerage for a private house; how to design it correctly and what to focus on during installation, the rules verified by experience will help you figure it out.

Varieties of sewerage systems in a private house

All houses located in the private sector are conventionally divided into two categories:

    Houses with the ability to connect to the city (central) network. In most cases - best option, with a long service life and no problems with maintenance, unplanned expenses and water quality control.

    Houses in which connection to centralized system impossible. The fact that the city network is unavailable is not a reason to give up comfort. Under such conditions, the sewage system in a private house is reduced to an autonomous option, where water treatment and waste disposal takes place in locally installed treatment facilities.

You can also combine the sewer and drainage systems

Autonomous sewerage system includes:

    internal sewerage responsible for the collection of wastewater and their output to the outside. It includes internal wiring (piping system), as well as plumbing and household appliances.

    External sewerage. Its elements are external piping and a water treatment device (septic tank or autonomous sewer installation).

The most suitable (in terms of performance) type of individual treatment equipment is selected, taking into account several factors:

    seasonality of living in the house;

    intensity of water use;

    plot size, soil type and structure;

    groundwater level;

    climatic conditions of the region.

The first stage of sewerage installation is the development of a preliminary project scheme.

Rules for drawing up a sewerage scheme in a house

The sewerage scheme in a private house is tied to the plan of the house. It must contain key elements systems - a riser (if the building has more than one floor), pipe markings (internal wiring, corners and turns), water drainage points.

When designing, it is important to remember that an overly complicated circuit will cause problems during operation and repair in the future.

Internal wiring is laid during the construction of the house. Its installation begins when the roof of the house and floors are installed, but the finishing work of the premises has not yet been carried out. External sewerage is mounted after the internal system is fully equipped. Below is a sewerage scheme for a private two-story house:

General scheme internal sewerage in a two-story house

The order of drawing up the scheme:

    All drawings are built to scale, the place of installation of the riser, pipe laying lines, the number of drain points (connection of plumbing and household appliances) are applied to the plan.

    The size of the riser is determined, the total length of the pipeline is calculated (including the outlet), the exit point from the structure of the main riser.

    In places of possible formation of blockages, cleaning and revisions are provided.

    A separate drawing is built for each floor.

    The size and location of the installation of the fan pipe is calculated (in large sewer systems, it prevents the occurrence of vacuum in the sewer pipe)

    The scheme of external communications is built on the same principle.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of design and installation of sewerage and water supply. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

About the sewerage scheme with a fan pipe on the video:

The choice of pipes for internal sewage

Building codes allow the following categories of pipes:

    Cast iron. Traditional (until recently) solution. Cast iron products are strong, corrosion resistant and durable. The disadvantage is the weight and roughness of the inner surface. The latter quality contributes to the formation of deposits and the appearance of blockages. Pipes are ideal for laying in the ground.

    Plastic. They are lighter and cheaper than cast iron counterparts, have a smooth surface, but are less durable. Pipes for intra-house wiring are gray; intended for external use are made of orange plastic. The most popular options include:

    Pipes from PVC(polyvinyl chloride). Frost-resistant and wear-resistant, the main disadvantage is high hardness. They soften from heat and are mainly used in outdoor applications.

    Pipes from PP(polypropylene). Elastic, lightweight and durable. Valued for their heat resistance (they soften only at 140 C°), they are therefore ideal for indoor use.

Plastic pipes for internal and external circuit

    Less common ceramic and asbestos-cement analogues.

In practice, the installation of sewerage in a private house in most cases is carried out using products made of polymeric materials (plastic). The choice is determined by the absence of corrosion (plastic is resistant to aggressive wastewater environments), and easy installation of structures.

How is sewer wiring done

The most time-consuming part of the work is considered to be the wiring of sewers for a private house; how to carry it out correctly is indicated in the design and installation rules.

Inside the house

Elements of the sewerage system for a private house are mounted parallel to the construction of the building. Holes for internal wiring are laid during the construction of walls, partitions and ceilings.

Sewer installation technology provides for several types of pipes:

    Sewer riser, 100 mm in diameter.

    Main (between riser and outlet); diameter 70 mm.

    Branch (connected to the washbasin, bathroom, washing machine) - 50 mm.

Completed piping installation

The spillway system inside the house is gravity (non-pressure). To avoid blockages, pipes are mounted with a slope, the value of which is controlled by the level and depends on the diameter. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 40-50 mm is given a slope of 30 mm per linear meter, a diameter of 100 mm - 20 mm.

Completed ceiling wiring

Horizontal wiring is performed using oblique tees and adapters (crosses) for connection. Turns are carried out using two knees with a smooth bend at an angle of 45 °; this arrangement reduces the risk of clogging. After each turn, revisions (cleanings) are provided. Right angles are allowed only in vertically arranged structures.

fan pipe

With a sharp entry into the sewer of a large amount of wastewater, the latter can completely fill the entire diameter of the pipe. At the same time, when the drains go down, an area of ​​low water is created behind them. atmospheric pressure(vacuum), into which water from the siphon and air from the room are sucked in with characteristic sounds.

When the pressure equalizes, then without a water plug, the smell from the sewer enters the room back through the siphons. To prevent the occurrence of vacuum, a fan pipe is installed with air valve- they are responsible for maintaining atmospheric pressure in all parts of the sewer system.

Fan pipe features:

    It is designed and displayed 50-70 cm above the roof.

    It must not be combined with a chimney or ventilation.

    It is not placed near windows or balconies.

Conclusion of the exhaust (fan) pipe through the roof

outdoor part

Installation of the outer part of the sewer system begins after determining the location of the septic tank.

The outlet (the connecting link between the external and internal sewerage at the boundary of the room) is laid at the base of the house below the freezing point of the soil and is thermally insulated. If it was not provided during the laying of the foundation, it is necessary to drill a hole for the protective sleeve, 200-250 mm wider than the pipe diameter. Its edge should protrude from each side of the foundation by 15 cm. The space between the sleeve and the outlet pipe is filled with foam.

Laying of external communications

    It is reasonable to place wet rooms (kitchen, bathroom) nearby and at the same time as close as possible to central riser. This will help to reduce the length of sewer communications to the riser, which will facilitate installation and further maintenance.

    A voluminous project (pool, bath, sauna), additional plumbing means a large amount of waste. A carefully designed water supply and drainage scheme, additional risers and septic tanks, and a pump connection will be required.

    Sewer pipes in a private house can be placed under the floor, in the walls or laid on top. Near the sink, in the shower and in the toilet, a water seal is arranged, thanks to which extraneous odors cannot enter the premises.

    It is unacceptable to arbitrarily change the slope. Its increase will lead to a deterioration in the self-cleaning of the system and the appearance loud noises. When the slope decreases, the flow of water slows down, which is fraught with blockage.

Slope control when laying sewers

    The complex terrain of the site creates additional problems for laying a pipeline with a slope. In this case, an axonometric diagram is built that allows you to determine the position of the sewer elements in space. If difficult places cannot be bypassed, the solution will be to install a pump.

Clearly about some of the nuances of sewerage in the video:

Conclusion

A well-designed and organized sewerage system will help create the necessary minimum comfort for the inhabitants of the house. The achievement of this worthy goal is facilitated by the involvement of specialized specialists. And it does not matter whether it is a wooden house or a brick one - the principles of the system are the same everywhere.

Laying sewerage is an important stage in the construction of a private house. If there is no public sewerage, then in order to equip a completely autonomous drainage system, it is necessary to lay a network that delivers wastewater from sanitary and household appliances to a collection well. Installing a sewer for a private house is not a quick matter, but serious difficulties should not arise when doing the work yourself. The help of specialists may be required only on the most difficult areas pipeline.

The drainage system of a private house consists of internal and external sewage and a prefabricated well. In cottages with more than two floors with their own bathrooms, the sewer network is additionally equipped with a fan pipe.

Water supply and sanitation systems are usually designed and installed at the same time, since the same plumbing and household equipment is connected to them.

The procedure for laying a sewer network:

  • Prepare a pipeline project, taking into account all the devices connected to it, a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter, and calculate the amount of building materials needed.
  • Purchase pipes, fittings and fittings.
  • Cut pipes into lengths according to the project.
  • Carry out internal wiring and bring the sewer pipe outside.
  • Install fan pipe.
  • Install outdoor sewer.
  • Arrange a prefabricated well and connect a pipeline to it.

Internal wiring

Intra-house sewerage is collected in such a way that its lowest point is the place where the pipeline exits to the outside. In order not to be mistaken with the angle of inclination, you can start the assembly from this point.

If there is a project, the connection order is unimportant, but you must strictly follow the rules for performing internal wiring:

  • Each device and functional section of the pipeline requires a pipe of the appropriate diameter: for the riser and toilet bowl - 11 cm, for showers, bathtubs, kitchen sinks - 5 cm, for everything else 3.2 cm is enough, but if several devices are connected to one pipe at the same time , its diameter must be at least 7.5 cm.
  • Since wastewater flows through the pipes by gravity, a pipeline slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter is required.
  • The connection of pipes must be tight and not interfere with the free flow of liquid: the pipes are connected along the flow, there should be no roughness and burrs at the junction.
  • Right angles should be avoided, as they are the most likely to form blockages. To perform a turn, it is better to use several knees with smaller angles.
  • It is necessary to prevent back suction from the sewer and the penetration of an unpleasant odor into the house. To do this, a siphon or an S-shaped bent pipe is installed on the pipe of each plumbing fixture, which acts as a water seal.
  • If the house has several floors and each of them has plumbing, a common riser should be equipped.
  • Toilets are installed closer to other household and plumbing fixtures to the riser.
  • Piping nodes cannot be performed in places where walls or ceilings pass.
  • Holes for pipes passing through walls and ceilings are cut with a margin, it is advisable to insert special sleeves or sections of wider pipes into them.
  • Connection points to the riser and pipeline turns are equipped with a tee with an inspection window closed with a plug. Through these windows, pipes will be cleaned in the future in case of clogging.
  • The riser is located as close as possible to the outlet of the sewer to the outside.

Most of those who live in an apartment do not think about how the sewer system works and works. However, if you live in a private house that does not have a centralized sewage system, the issue of waste disposal is always relevant for you. Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house must be approached carefully. As a rule, the first step is the installation of water pipes, and after that the sewerage is laid out.

Design

Before you start work, you need to think about and plan everything. The best option would be to make a project: you can think about how to compactly arrange the pipes, as well as take into account the design features of the house. Moreover, the project can provide for the location of plumbing equipment and designate a method for connecting pipes to it, indicating the number of fittings required. In certain areas of the system, it is necessary to indicate the diameter and footage. This information will be useful to you when purchasing building material. So, now let's see what is required to complete the work.

We collect building materials and tools

The main element of the internal sewerage system is a common riser. It is used to drain all waste. After the drains enter the external sewer, which takes them to the septic tank. For this system to work properly and efficiently, it is extremely important not to skimp on quality. building materials. This is perhaps the main requirement for the purchase of materials. So, you will need:

  • Pipes of different diameters. As a rule, pipes Ø 100, 75, 50 and 30 mm can be used in domestic sewage.
  • Elbows that must match the diameter of the pipes.
  • Tees of the corresponding diameters.
  • Reducers and adapters.
  • Plugs for sockets.
  • Pipe fasteners.
  • Sealant.

When buying pipes, it is important to consider that the diameter of the riser should be the largest. As a rule, a pipe Ø 100 mm is used to drain the toilet bowl, the same for the riser. A riser is installed in each case in different places. This will be influenced by the features of your home. As for the tools, you will need:

  • Hacksaw.
  • Bulgarian.
  • Level.
  • Pencil.
  • Perforator.
  • A hammer.
  • Screwdriver Set.
  • Sealant gun.

Features and types of sewerage of a private house

The entire sewerage system of a private house is divided into three components:

  1. Internal.
  2. outdoor.
  3. Septic tank or cesspool.

So that during the operation of the sewer you do not have any difficulties, you need to carefully consider everything.

Internal sewerage

When compared to urban internal system sewerage with the sewerage of a private house, you can notice big differences, moreover, in a private house it is much more complicated. This is due to the fact that an autonomous sewer system often serves not only the house, but also a bathhouse, a jacuzzi, a shower, a barbecue, a summer kitchen, and so on - buildings that require improvement are added. In order for the entire sewerage system to work perfectly, it is necessary to delve into the peculiarities of its device; in case of malfunctions, they can be easily eliminated. The purpose of the internal sewage system is to collect wastewater from all plumbing fixtures. It consists of:

  1. Plumbing devices.
  2. pipeline.

Please note that pipes can be laid both on top of walls and inside them. If you want to hide pipes in the wall, then this is a very laborious job. Sewerage can be laid in the floor. Although it is not always possible to conduct pipes in this way. Some plumbing fixtures are designed in such a way that their connection to the sewer system requires exactly the presence of open system. In this case, the pipe at a certain slope should be attached to the wall using special fasteners.

Note! The most important aspect of laying sewer pipes is strict observance of the slope. Only in this case the possibility of clogging the system will be minimal.

Please note that pipes of different diameters require a different slope. For example, a pipe Ø 50 mm should have a minimum slope of 25 mm, and a maximum or standard slope of 35 mm per linear meter. If a pipe Ø 100 mm is laid, then its slope should be from 12 mm to 20 mm. Accordingly, a pipe Ø 125 mm - from 10 mm to 15 mm. These indicators are important, because it is from them that one should build on when making the sewerage system of a private house with one's own hands. If you make even a small mistake in the slope, then permanent blockages will be guaranteed to you. For this reason, when laying pipes of any diameter, it is necessary to use a level.

Note! Maintenance of open sewer pipes is much easier. If you lay the sewer in the wall, then the problems will increase.

Once the system is assembled, it must be checked by pouring water and noticing the flow rate. Here are some tips on how to do it right inner part sewers:

  • The pipe inlet on the plumbing connection side must not be lower than the level of the pipe at the entrance to the sewer riser.
  • The branch line laid in the ceiling should not be more than ten meters long.
  • All pipes must be connected with special fittings in the form of tees.
  • Each joint must have a rubber seal.

As for the riser, it is a vertically installed pipe, which must be at least 100 mm in diameter. Using a special coupling, a revision should be mounted at a height of one meter from the floor. Pipes are brought to the roof for the purpose of ventilation and to prevent the appearance of a vacuum in the system. As a result, the sewer riser goes to the roof. The height of the pipe above the roof should be about 700 mm.

Note! If there is an unheated room on some section of the route or riser, then the pipe should be insulated.

As a result, the riser will be connected to the outer part of the sewer. About her device will be discussed further.

Outdoor sewerage

We can say that the installation of external sewerage is a more complex and responsible matter. This also applies to the choice of pipes. Not all pipes will be suitable for this purpose. It is recommended to buy corrugated or PVC pipes s made of polypropylene. Before starting installation, you should consider how the pipes will pass. The system must be mounted without sharp turns. If a turn is needed, then make it less sharp. Moreover, it is recommended to lay the pipe at a depth of up to 800 mm. Like the internal system, the external one should also be laid at a sufficient slope. When the trenches are ready, you can make a small pillow of sand, preferably coarse-grained. The main thing is not to feel sorry for the sand and to properly compact the resulting pillow, because the loosened soil tends to settle. As for the angle of inclination, here the calculations will differ from the calculations for the internal sewerage. For example, if a 100Ø mm pipe is laid in a trench, then for every ten meters the angle should be up to 20 mm. This is the ideal indicator.

Living in a private house, you want to create maximum comfort for your family in it, ensuring a high standard of living, so it is very important to think in advance about such an important issue as sewerage. Sewerage in a private house can be done by hand. This article will help you do all the work correctly, competently and without harm to the environment.

With the independent construction of the sewer system in a private house, you can save a lot, but it is very important to carry out all the work correctly, in accordance with all the requirements that apply to construction and installation work of this kind.

The choice of a sewer system scheme should be made in accordance with the layout of a particular house. When planning a house, it is recommended to provide for a compact placement of premises for which water supply and drainage will be carried out (showers, bathrooms, laundries, bathrooms, etc.). But most the best option there will be such an arrangement in which all plumbing equipment will be tied to one pipe (collector), through which the outflow will be made Wastewater into a cesspool or septic tank.

Experts advise, in the presence of a large house, which provides for several different rooms with drainage and water supply, located in different parts buildings, to give preference to such a scheme of the sewer system, in which there will be at least two (and sometimes more) cesspools or septic tanks. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and bathrooms, toilets and kitchens are located on different floors, then in this case you will need to install risers.

Types of sewerage

All work on the construction of sewerage in a private house with their own hands is reduced to the arrangement of external and internal sewage. Internal sewerage works include the installation of a fan pipe, a riser and pipe routing to such premises as a shower room, kitchen, toilet, etc. External or external sewerage includes everything that is located outside the house, that is, a system of pipes going from home to deep cleaning station (rather expensive turnkey solution) or to a home-made septic tank (with a filtration field or storage). Of course, if you have the opportunity to connect to a centralized waste disposal system, then the task will be greatly simplified. But in this article it will be considered an autonomous system, including effective cleaning wastewater in a septic tank, and such a primitive way as a cesspool.

First of all, it is necessary to deal with the internal circuit. Even at the stage, it is necessary to think about the fact that all the premises to which the sewage system will be connected are located as close as possible to each other, since subsequently such an approach will greatly simplify the scheme for arranging the internal sewage system. Each house assumes an individual sewerage scheme, which can be very diverse.

In this case, one should take into account the fact that pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm should be used in the toilet to drain wastewater. For gray drains that will flow into the sewer from the kitchen or bathroom, PP or PVC pipes with a diameter of 50 mm should be used. All turns must be done using two plastic elbows bent at an angle of 45 degrees, as this will further minimize the possibility of blockage, which is quite problematic to eliminate. It is safer and cheaper to use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polypropylene (PP) pipes in the sewerage scheme, as they are more durable, more reliable and cheaper than cast iron pipes. And besides this, it is much easier to install an internal sewerage system using such pipes.

First of all, it is necessary to decide where exactly the collector pipe or riser will be located, and only then deal with further wiring from it.

But before that, you should more accurately understand how you can independently develop a sewerage scheme for your home, because in the future, according to this scheme, it will be possible to make a complete calculation of all that (plumbing equipment and materials) that you need to equip the sewer system.

You can perform a sewerage scheme on a piece of paper in a box, but it is advisable to purchase several sheets of graph paper for this task. In addition, you will need a tape measure, ruler and a sharp pencil.

For a private house, the sewerage scheme is drawn up in the following sequence:

  • First you need to draw to scale. If the dimensions of the house are unknown to you, then you will have to walk with a tape measure and measure everything;
  • then you need to decide where the risers will be located;
  • after that, it is necessary to mark the locations of plumbing fixtures on the plan and decide how they will be connected;
  • at the next stage, it is necessary to note the pipes that will go from the fittings and the riser to the plumbing fixtures, as well as all the connecting elements (tees, bends, and others);
  • all of the above should be done for each floor of your house;
  • then it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the fan pipe and riser;
  • now it remains only to sum up the length of all pipes related to the internal sewerage;
  • the next step will be the external system, on which you need to draw up an external sewerage scheme, which includes pipes going from a deep cleaning station or septic tank to the outlet. Do not forget to take into account all available and SNiPs.

Since the conditions inside and outside the house are very different, the pipes for these two sewage schemes are used differently. Currently, PP and PVC pipes, which have a characteristic gray color, are most often used for laying internal sewer pipes. For sunbeds and risers, the diameter of such pipes is 110 mm, and for drainage - 40 and 50 mm. But do not forget that these pipes are intended only for internal sewage, and other solutions must be used for external ones.

Most often, the pipes that are laid underground from the deep cleaning station or septic tank to the outlet are painted orange, which can be explained very simply - a bright orange color is more noticeable in the ground compared to the rest. But pipes for external sewerage differ from the rest not only in color - they have completely different requirements. Such pipes have greater rigidity, since they will have to withstand a significant load while underground. There are also more durable designs, an example of which can be two-layer corrugated pipes. But the depth of laying pipes, when constructing a sewerage system for a private house, is usually small (most often up to 2 meters), so there is no need to use such pipes. Red pipes most often have a diameter of 110 mm, this should be enough to drain wastewater from the house.

Cast iron

Advantages: able to withstand heavy loads, durable and strong.

Disadvantages: expensive, heavy and fragile, roughness can form on the inside due to corrosion, this can cause blockage.

Polypropylene

Advantages: lightweight and flexible, making them most in demand for internal sewage. They can easily withstand the high temperature of wastewater.

Disadvantages: if used as intended, there are no drawbacks.

PVC

Advantages: similar to cast iron, inexpensive and lightweight. Most often used for outdoor sewage.

Disadvantages: the high temperature of wastewater is poorly tolerated, brittle (they do not bend, but crack).

Pipe laying

Probably the most time-consuming process in the construction of a private house with your own hands is the wiring and laying of pipes. If you decide to do this work yourself, then be sure to call someone for help, as this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also the speed. It is also recommended that you first check the tightness of the system by flushing it with clean water, and only then, after making sure that all the seams are reliable, you can begin full operation.

It has already been said before that the most simple option will use PP or PVC pipes for sewerage. At present, the construction market has a large number of offers of this product, so it will not be difficult for you to find revisions, tees, elbows and plastic pipes that are securely and easily connected at the docking points due to the presence of rubber cuffs. If desired, all joints can be additionally treated with a special plumbing sealant. And in those places where labor passes through a wall or ceiling, it is recommended to install a sleeve.

You also need to remember about the slope of the pipes. In accordance with SNiP, in a non-pressure system, the angle of inclination of the pipe depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, it is necessary to create a slope of at least 3 cm per meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - at least 2 cm per meter. Do not forget about this, since you will need to place different points of the pipeline at different heights to ensure the necessary slope.

In order not to encounter a discrepancy between the internal and outdoor systems sewerage, it is necessary to begin the installation of sewerage in the house from the outlet. The outlet is the boundary part of the sewerage system that connects the pipe leading to the septic tank with the pipe that exits the house (riser).

The outlet must be mounted through the foundation at a depth exceeding the freezing depth of the soil, which corresponds to your region. You can install a higher outlet, but for this you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in the winter. If this is not done, then it is likely that you will be able to use the toilet only in the spring, after warming.

If this was not taken care of, then you will need to punch a hole in the foundation into which a drain pipe with a sleeve can fit. A sleeve is a small piece of pipe, the diameter of which is larger than that of a sewer pipe (130-160 mm). Such a sleeve should protrude at least 15 cm on both sides of the foundation.

Summarizing the above, it can be said that this stage you need to make a hole in the foundation (if it is not there) and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Do not forget that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. A sleeve is needed in order to ask required slope pipes towards the septic tank (2 cm per meter).

It is best to place the riser in the toilet, as the recommended size of the pipe that goes from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted both openly and hidden, depending on how the pipes will be mounted - in special boxes, walls, channels and niches, or next to walls (fastening with hangers, clamps, etc.).

In order to connect the sewer pipes to the riser, oblique tees should be used, and adapters should be used at the joints of pipes that are different in diameter. Where pipes from sinks, bath and shower intersect, it is necessary to install a collector pipe having a diameter of 100-110 mm. Also, don't forget about water seals, which will help protect your sense of smell from unpleasant odors.

It is imperative to mount a special tee (revision) on each riser with which it will be possible to clean the blockage, if necessary. In order not to carry out work on cleaning the sewer in the future, it is necessary to mount a cleaning after each turn.

The output and installation of the fan pipe is given a very important role, since the fan pipe is needed for:

  • maintaining atmospheric pressure inside the system so that water hammer and air discharge do not occur;
  • increasing the durability of the sewer system;
  • ventilation of the entire sewage system, which in turn is necessary for the efficient operation of the septic tank.

A fan pipe is a continuation of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that is brought to. Before connecting the fan pipe and the riser, it is necessary to install a revision. After that, you need to bring the pipe at a convenient angle to the attic.

It is not recommended to simplify the work by combining the fan pipe (sewer ventilation) with the chimney or ventilation of the house. Moreover, it is necessary to locate the outlet of the fan pipe away from windows and balconies, at a distance of at least 4 meters. The height of the indentation from the roof should not be less than 70 cm. In addition, it is necessary to have sewer ventilation, a chimney and ventilation of the house at different levels.

Summarizing all of the above, we can say the following:

  • at the first stage, you should start drawing up a detailed wiring diagram, minimizing, if possible, the distance from plumbing fixtures to the riser;
  • it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes that go to the riser, in the course of connecting additional devices. Do not allow a reduction in diameter;
  • you need to follow a simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be to the riser. The toilet should be located closest to the riser;
  • when wiring in a private sewer house, sharp corners should be excluded, and pipes should be laid with a certain slope;
  • those where blockages may form in the future, it is necessary to provide for cleaning and revision in advance;
  • for ventilation of the system, a fan pipe must be present in the wiring diagram.

You can equip a sewer in a private house with your own hands different ways, which will be discussed next. It is very important to choose the right system that will meet all your needs.

It is necessary to choose a scheme for arranging a sewerage system, taking into account some parameters:

  • temporary or permanent residence in the house;
  • the number of people living in the house permanently;
  • how much water each person consumes daily (depending on the availability of a washing machine, washbasin, sink, toilet, shower, bath, etc.);
  • at what level do groundwater occur;
  • how big is your site and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
  • what type and structure of the soil;
  • climatic conditions.

For more detailed information, you should study all relevant sections of SNiP and SanPin.

All sewer systems for a private house can be conditionally divided into two types:

  • storage systems (sealed wastewater tank, cesspool without a bottom);
  • facilities designed for wastewater treatment (aerotank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with two or three chambers and a filtration field, a septic tank with two overflowing wells and natural treatment, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning).

The cesspool is the most ancient and proven method of arranging sewers for many centuries. This method had no alternative 50-70 years ago. True, in those days people did not use as much water in a private house as they do now.

In fact, a cesspool is a well that does not have a bottom. In a cesspool, walls can be made of concrete, concrete rings, bricks or other material, and soil can be left as the bottom. After sewage from the house enters the pit, relatively clean water will seep into the soil, while solid organic waste and fecal matter will accumulate, settling to the bottom. When over time the well is completely filled with solid waste, it will need to be cleaned.

Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, so when it was full, they buried it, and another one was dug out in another place.

It should be noted the fact that to arrange sewage in a private house with the help of cesspool is possible only when the volume of average daily effluents does not exceed one cubic meter. Only in this case, soil microorganisms living in the soil and feeding on organic matter will be able to process the water that will penetrate through the bottom of the pit into the soil. And in the event that the volume of effluents exceeds this rate, the water will not receive the necessary treatment, which will lead to pollution. ground water. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated. If you add microorganisms to the cesspool, this will slightly reduce the unpleasant odor that comes from it, and also speed up the process of water purification. But it's still not worth the risk.

Conclusion. It is worth building a cesspool that does not have a bottom only when they do not live in the house permanently, but visit several times a week without spending a lot of water. Also, you should pay attention to the fact that groundwater must lie at least one meter below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to avoid contamination of water sources and soil. The cesspool has the lowest cost, but even despite this, it is currently not popular in cottages and modern country houses.

In this case, it is necessary to install a sealed container near the house, into which wastewater will flow from the entire house through pipes. You can purchase a ready-made container in the store, which can be made of metal, plastic or other material. But if you wish, you can make such a container with your own hands from concrete rings. The lid can be made of metal, and the bottom can be made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of this type of sewage system is complete tightness. For this type of sewage, pragma corrugated pipes can be used.

Such a container will definitely need to be cleaned when it is completely full, for which you will have to call a sewage truck, which will cost you from 15 to 30 USD. The required volume of the container and the frequency of its emptying depends on the volume of wastewater. For example, if four people live in the house on a permanent basis, who use washing machine, toilet, sink, shower and bath, then storage tank should have a volume of at least 8 cubic meters, and it will need to be cleaned every 10-14 days.

Conclusion. If the groundwater in your area is quite high, then as an option for arranging the sewerage system at home, you can use a sealed cesspool. With its help, you can completely protect water sources and soil from possible pollution. But the disadvantage of such a system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. For the same reason, it is necessary to think in advance about the place where the pit will be placed so that there is a convenient access to it. The bottom of the tank or pit should not be deeper than three meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom. Lid storage capacity must be insulated so that the pipeline is protected from freezing. The cost of such a container will directly depend on its volume and the material from which it will be made. Using used Eurocubes will be the cheapest option, and the most expensive is brick or concrete pouring. Also, do not forget about the monthly costs of cleaning the tank.

The easiest option for soil cleaning is a single-chamber septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank is not very different from an ordinary cesspool, and sometimes it is called that. This structure is essentially a well in which the bottom is covered with a small layer of crushed stone (at least 30 cm), and coarse-grained sand is covered with the same layer on top of the crushed stone. In this case, wastewater from the house enters the well through pipes, where the water then seeps through sand, gravel and soil, while being cleaned by 50%. Of course, crushed stone and sand significantly improve the quality of water treatment, but this does not fundamentally solve the problem.

Conclusion. It is not recommended to build a sewerage system in a private house using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or with a large volume of wastewater. This option can only be used with a low level of groundwater and temporary residence. It will also be necessary to periodically change the crushed stone and sand, as they will silt.

The construction of filter wells and overflow settling wells is a fairly popular way of arranging sewerage in a private house, moreover, this option is quite economical and can be mounted independently.

This sewer system consists of two wells: the first well has an airtight bottom, and the second one has no bottom, but is sprinkled with rubble and sand.

From the house, sewage enters the first well, in which feces and solid waste sink to the bottom, and greasy ones float to the surface. Between these two layers, relatively clarified water is formed. The first well is connected to the second by about 2/3 of its height by an overflow pipe, which is located at a slight slope, allowing water to flow there unhindered. Slightly clarified water enters the second well, which then seeps through sand, gravel and soil, clearing even more.

The first well serves as a sump, and the second as a filter well. From time to time, the first well fills up with faeces and you will need to call a sewage truck to clean it. This should be done about once every six months. In order to reduce the amount of unpleasant odors, it is necessary to add microorganisms that decompose feces into the first well.

The two-chamber described above can be made with your own hands from brick, concrete or concrete rings, or you can purchase a ready-made plastic septic tank from the manufacturer, in which additional cleaning will be carried out with the help of special microorganisms.

Conclusion. It is worth installing a sewerage system in a private house based on two overflow wells only when, even during a flood, the groundwater level is below one meter from the bottom of the second well. If your site has sandy or sandy soil, then this will be ideal option. But remember that after about five years, the sand and gravel in the second well will need to be replaced.

Soil and biological treatment - septic tank with filtration field

This type of septic tank is made in the form of one tank, which is divided into several separate tanks connected by pipes, or into 2-3 sections. Usually, if you want to install this type of sewer system in your home, a ready-made version is purchased.

The first capacity of the septic tank is designed to settle wastewater, as is the case in a conventional settling well. Further, the partially clarified water goes through the pipe to the second section or container, where all available organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. After that, more clarified water follows to the filtration fields.

The filtration field is a rather extensive (about 30 sq.m) underground area, where wastewater is treated by soil. In this case, the water is purified by about 80% due to the large area. If the soil in your area is sandy or sandy, then this will be an ideal option, otherwise you will need to build an artificial filtration field from sand and gravel. After the water passes the filtration field, it is collected in pipelines and sent to wells or drainage ditches. It is not allowed to plant edible vegetables and trees above the filtration field, you can only make a flower bed.

Over time, the filtration field will become silted up and it will need to be cleaned, or rather replaced with sand and gravel. This is a very large amount of work, and your site may suffer in this case.

Conclusion. The construction of a sewerage system with a filtration field in a private house is recommended only when the groundwater is at a depth of at least 2.5-3 meters. You also need to remember that there must be a distance of at least 30 meters from the filtration field to residential buildings and water sources.

With the help of a deep cleaning station, it is possible to carry out a complete installation of sewage in a private house, even with a sufficiently high level of groundwater.

This station is a container, which is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to purchase it from a trusted manufacturer, after checking with professionals about the necessary equipment and volume. The cost of such a septic tank starts from 1200 USD, which is not at all cheap.

The first chamber of this septic tank is designed to settle water, and in the second, organic residues decompose with the help of anaerobic microorganisms. In the third chamber, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter decomposes with the help of aerobic bacteria, which necessarily need a constant supply of air. To ensure this condition, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, which should rise 50 cm above the ground. A filter is installed in the pipe that leads from the third chamber to the fourth, into which aerobic bacteria are added. In fact, this is a filtering field, but it is concentrated and more miniature. Due to the higher concentration of microorganisms and the small area of ​​water movement, water purification is more thorough (up to 90-95%). Water purified in this way can be used to wash a car, water a garden, and much more. From the fourth chamber there is a pipe that goes either to a drainage ditch or to a storage tank.

Conclusion. For a private house where they live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is an excellent solution. Adding microorganisms to a septic tank is very simple - you just need to pour them into the toilet. Such a cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not require electricity to operate. The disadvantage is the fact that this station needs permanent residence, since bacteria deprived of sewage will simply die. If you add new bacteria there, they will start working only after two weeks.

Artificial cleaning station - septic tank with forced air supply

This is practically an accelerated cleaning station in which natural processes take place artificially. The arrangement of the sewer system of a private house with the help of an aeration tank is not possible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is necessary to connect the air distributor and air pump.

This septic tank has three individual containers or cameras that are interconnected. Water through the sewer pipe first enters the first chamber, in which it settles and solid waste precipitates. Further, partially clarified water is pumped into the second chamber, which is essentially an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of plants and microorganisms, is mixed with water. All activated sludge bacteria and microorganisms are aerobic, so forced aeration is required for their vital activity.

Then the water mixed with sludge enters the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump, after which the sludge is pumped back to the aerotank by a special pump.

Due to the forced air supply, wastewater treatment occurs quite quickly, and the purified water can be used for various technical needs (watering the garden, washing the car, etc.).

Conclusion. Aerotank, of course, is quite expensive (from 3700 USD), but at the same time very useful. There are no restrictions when installing this type of sewerage. Among the shortcomings, one can note only the need for electricity, as well as permanent residence so that bacteria do not die.

If your site has a high level of groundwater, then drawing a conclusion from everything written above, you can opt for several options:

  • aeration tank (aeration cleaning station);
  • septic tank with biofilter;
  • a sealed container in which waste accumulates.

There are certain restrictions on the placement of sewer system facilities.

Septic location:

  • at least 10 meters from the garden;
  • at least 20-50 meters from any water source (reservoir, well, well);
  • at least 5 meters from residential buildings.

Residential building location:

  • 300 meters from stations and drain wells;
  • 50 meters from aeration treatment plants;
  • 25 meters from the filter field;
  • 8 meters from the filter well.

Be sure to make a draft of the sewerage system of a private house and do not try to do everything without it, since the sewerage system is such a system in which there can be no approximation. It is best to contact architects or a design bureau, where professionals will help you create a competent project, taking into account operating conditions, climate, site and soil. Even better, if you do a sewer project together with a house project, even before construction begins.

The installation of a sewerage system for a private house itself is not particularly difficult. All you need to do is to properly distribute the pipes around the house, connect them to the collector and bring them to the septic tank. For earthworks, you can hire an excavator, or you can do it yourself. The main thing is the drafting and competent selection of the sewerage system.