Sagging garage door what to do. How to raise a garage door in a brick garage. Dismantling masonry as a way to increase the opening of the garage door

22.04.2020

Date: 2013-07-16 11:03:26
The need to raise the garage door may arise in some cases. As an example, we can consider a situation where, due to their too low position in relation to the ground, the structure is not easy to open even in the summer months. What then to say about winter, when frozen ice and snow prevent its opening? Of course, as an option, you can simply cut the structure, and concrete the entrance itself - this way you will ensure a natural slope and water removal. However, this method involves only reducing the size of the product. BUT how to raise garage door Let's try to find the answer to this difficult question together.

For work, you will need a brick, channel, water and the garage door itself. As you can see, nothing special. When everything is at hand, you can begin to work.

Getting Started

Consider a situation where it becomes necessary to maintain the current level of the garage, as well as raising its gate. Let's consider the step-by-step execution of the operation. First, the garage door must be removed, then release the frame. Next, we remove several rows of bricks directly above the opening and raise the gate itself. Finally, in the lower section, you can raise the backfill and return the structure to its original position.

Now let's take a closer look, how to raise garage doors. Before removing them from the hinges, wash the mortar between the bricks of the row to which you will remove them, and install a channel or at least a reliable corner in its place. This operation must be carried out before lifting the garage door. So you can save the structure of the building from destruction, otherwise the consequences can be the most sad. Using anchor bolts, securely fix the selected channel or corner.

Other possible problems

Sometimes the difficulty may lie in the height garage doors. In this case, the problem becomes more complicated, since its elimination will require certain experience and skills in the construction field. The solution we offer is designed for brick caravans. Above you can read detailed description actions, for this it is necessary to knock out one or two rows of masonry. After that, it is required to strengthen the resulting slope, after which the frame itself rises to the required height.

Let's summarize. There are various ways to solve the problem of raising the garage door. You can choose the most best option for your situation. I would like to repeat that the simplest and easiest method to increase the clearance between the garage door and the floor is to cut them with a grinder.

Sometimes, after raising the gate by one or two bricks, the gap between them and the floor increases significantly. You can get rid of this problem different ways. One of them is concrete. You can also install a threshold. In any case, make sure that the slope is directed from the garage to the street. If this is not done, water during the rain will flow into the garage, filling it with dampness. And this, as you know, is very harmful to the car and the room itself.

There is a proverb "I passed the sopromat, I passed everything." And yet, some garage "experts" like to assure that they made "hard gates". Competent engineers are aware of a simple truth - “there are no rigid metal structures”, and a shipbuilding engineer, having heard about the strength of materials, will smile and say that "Strength of materials is a special case of Structural Mechanics, in which movement is not taken into account." This is us to the question of why it is sometimes necessary to raise the garage door. Now a little more detail on how to do this.

The main reasons for changing the geometry of the gate, or opening

General fatigue of the metal, settlement of hinges, natural deformations upon completion of installation, settlement of the opening (the frame in which the gate is mounted) after different reasons, some other factors (for example, in hot, cloudless weather a couple of years ago there were problems of thermal deformations of metal structures).

External causes that do not depend on the material part. We bought a car taller - it doesn’t fit in dimensions, they made a mistake in the lower gap - in winter the gate is extremely difficult to open, one of the walls of the garage sank more, which caused the opening to skew, and others that are sometimes difficult to foresee.

In each of these cases, the decision is made individually, but we will consider several simple ways, which are available with a simple tool with an assistant.

Ways to raise (correct the geometry) of the gate

Sagging hinges, (the gate is deformed, or something else). To raise (for example, one sash) you can use a spacer washer. We remove the sash from the hinges, put a washer of the required thickness on the axis of the lower hinge, return the sash to its place. Sometimes it is difficult to pick up the puck, then we put a ball of a suitable diameter into the loop where the hole is. This method allows you to correct small distortions of the leaves, slightly raise the gate, and facilitate movement on the loop. Very important! The material of the washer and ball must be of a harder alloy than the loop itself!
The need to change the distance from ground level to the bottom of the wings. The easiest way is to cut off the lower part with a grinder, then fix the rubber strip to close the gap. Applicable if the sheathing sheet protrudes beyond the lower frame beams. If the gate is mounted so that the lower beam is at ground level, you will first need to cut the beam, then the metal, weld the beam in place. By the way, in our practice there are structures where the lower part (about 10 cm) is mounted on hinges, and when the gate is opened, it can be folded back.
The skew of the valves, due to the deformation of the opening. If you do not touch the opening, then the easiest way to determine the skew zone (as a rule, the sashes do not close in the upper or lower part), on the sash that does not give a bow, cut the horizontal beam, cut down a few mm. With effort (you may need a jack), we press the vertical beam of the frame - we weld it. Up to gaps of 7-12 mm deformation sheet metal will be invisible. We must weld the place of welding with an additional metal strip, since residual deformations will occur here! If you do not strengthen this place, the welding seam will simply break over time.
The need to increase the height of the opening. The most difficult case, which will take time, the ability to lay bricks, additional equipment. How to do this can be found on construction sites. We will consider a situation where the problem was solved more simply.

An example of a simple solution in a difficult situation

So, the new car did not pass through the dimensions of the upper part of the garage opening. 6-7 cm across the width of the car itself, 14 cm on the right - on the left, at the installation sites of the roof rails (by the way, one of the most common causes when you need to raise the gate in height!).

Some garage craftsmen immediately advised dismantling the upper part of the opening (reducing the number of rows of bricks is a common approach), re-scalding the frame, thus increasing the height of the opening. Really raise the whole upper part 14 cm (2.5 rows of bricks) is very difficult, but this was not required. How the problem was solved.

In the floor of the garage (concrete, as well as a race with a slope of about 2 meters long), grooves were hollowed out with a width of 2 - 2.5 tires each, a depth of 10 cm. . The bottom of the track was covered with corrugated metal fixed to the floor.
On the example of another car (garage cooperatives are good because there will always be almost the same car - in this case without roof rails). Take into account the difference in tire height. We determined the gap between the roof of the car and the upper frame in the most unloaded state - 7 cm.
On the left and right, in the upper part of the opening, 60 cm of the channel were cut out (the middle part was supported with beams just in case). They knocked out several bricks, and scalded the resulting U-shaped slots with a channel, which was fixed into a brick.
We checked the smooth check-in and check-out on the right car, made sure that everything was done correctly.
After that, I had to lift the necessary sheets a little, since the gates stopped closing these holes, which was done on the spot, after the sashes had already been put in place.

This work was completed. They took three days, it took the help of a neighbor in the garages, it was not necessary to suffer with the task of how to raise the entire upper part of the frame (at the same time increasing the gate).

We hope that when you face a similar problem, this article will help you be smart, use simple solutions, and not try to solve the problem head-on, as experts from the Internet advise.

With the advent of the minibus, I began to worry about the question of how to raise the garage door. Bus could only enter on flat tires, which had an extremely negative effect on the rubber, and most importantly, on my nerves. There is not so much information on this item of garage cases, especially since everyone has a garage built differently. What do I have - a garage 3m high, but the gate is only 1.9m high, concrete floor slabs that lie along the garage and rest on the front and back walls of the garage.

To lift the gate, we need: - a corner 100x100 mm 7 m long for a lintel above the gate; - a corner 75x75 mm 2 m long for vertical posts; - studs and nuts for tightening the corner, in my case M10; - A strip of metal 5x50mm about 1 m long; - sheet metal 1250x1000x3 mm;

different corners and profile pipes to reinforce the frame of the gate leaves.

Step 1 - We decide on the required height of the future gate, I decided to raise the gate by 45 cm, while it is desirable to make sure that the bricks lying across the wall rest on the corner. We also transfer communications, in my case it is electrical wiring.

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We cover everything in the garage, there will be a lot of dust and mark out the work plan

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We transfer electrical wiring

Step 2 - It is necessary to make a strobe under the corner. I started from the inside of the garage. Because the height of the corner shelf is 7mm, then it is enough to choose a layer of masonry mortar between the rows of bricks. At the same time, we immediately make vertical gates to insert the corners of the vertical goalposts. For a strobe, you will need either a strobe with a large cutting depth, or a large grinder, in my case it was a 230mm grinder, with its help you get a strobe with a depth of 80-90mm. Because of this, I had to cut off the shelf of the corner a little, now it turned out to be 100x80mm, I immediately wanted to buy an unequal corner 125x80mm, but it was sold only in 12m segments, which was too much for me and would have cost a cosmic price.

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We make a strobe and clean the wall of unnecessary plaster

Step 3 - Installing the corner. I drilled five holes in the corner for M10 studs. I installed the corner into the wall, while between the lower row of bricks and the shelf of the corner, I drove wooden spacers around the entire perimeter, thereby the upper row of bricks began to fit as tightly as possible to the shelf of the corner. Then, through the holes for the studs, we drill through the entire wall with a long drill and install the studs.

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Installing the corner and studs

Step 4 - We repeat the operations from the third paragraph, only from the outside of the garage. At the same time, to match the holes of the outer corner with the studs from the inside of the garage, first install the corner, then take out the studs one by one from the inside and mark the future holes with the same drill, then remove the corner and drill holes of a slightly larger diameter than the stud and install again on the wall. Do not forget to fill the wooden spacers and then tighten the two corners with nuts.

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Installing the corner from the outside

Step 5 - Installation of vertical corners and their boiling. At the same time, it is desirable to install the corners slightly at an angle (barely noticeable) with the upper part inside the gate opening, when loaded from the upper crossbar, they will begin to burst the old goalposts to the sides and the leaves will not sag.

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Installation of vertical corners

Step 6 - We invite the guys with a sledgehammer and knock out unnecessary bricks. At the same time, we leave part of the bricks in the middle until the structure is thoroughly boiled.

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How to raise a garage door - invite guys with a sledgehammer :)

Step 7 - We weld all the joints of the old and new corners, we also weld the inner and outer corners together with strip segments. We also hammer wooden spacers in the gap between the horizontal corner and the upper row of bricks, this will evenly distribute the load along the entire length of the corner.

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We fasten and scald the corners. Unforgettable in the gap to fill the wooden struts

Step 8 - Now you can safely knock out the rest of the bricks.

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Breaking out the rest of the bricks

Step 9 - Now you need to weld a new frame for the missing part of the gate. To do this, we do not completely cut off the old crossbar, cutting out only where the new frame elements will be installed.

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Cut off part of the old crossbar

We close the gate leaf, fix it with tacks to the old crossbar and weld on a new leaf frame. In my case, these are corners of 50x50 mm. In this case, the door in the future will fit as tightly as possible to the frame of the gate.

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We weld the corners of the sash to the gate frame. It is noticeable in the photo that the upper corner was also first attached immediately to the frame, then vertical

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We install supports for a sheet of metal, because. it weighs decently and it's just hard to keep it on weight

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And weld the sheet

After all operations, you can cut off temporary tacks and open the finished sash.

Step 10 - We repeat all the operations with the second gate leaf, with one difference, because it overlaps on the left sash, then we put 5 mm plates under the upper corner of the sash, this can be omitted if you do not need access to the garage or there is a gate.

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We repeat all operations with the second gate leaf

Step 11 - Weld the hinges, this item is not necessary, it all depends on the height of the gate and the old hinges.

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We weld the hinges

That's it - the gates are up.

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This is how the height of the gate was increased

The main operation - knocking out old bricks and creating a new sash frame took place in one day, preparatory work took, of course, more time, but no special tricks were used, no props and jacking of the roof, everything can be done even by one person. (~$58) - corner 75x75 mm 2m long - price 15r (~$8) - metal sheet 1250x1000x3 mm - price 50r (~$25) - profile 40x40x2mm 6 meters - price 23r (~$12) - profile 20x20x2mm 18 meters - price 35r (~$18) - strip 50x5mm 1 meter - price 3r. 70kop. (~2$)

Other studs, nuts, electrodes, etc. - approximately 60 rubles. (~30$)

Total about 300 rubles. (~$150) pretty good. Now the minibus seems somehow small in the garage :) The final height of the gate is now 2m 35cm and the width is 2m 52cm.

And in the next post, I will tell you how to cut a gate into a garage door and paint them.

The next part - Inserting a gate into a garage door

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How to raise the gate in the garage with your own hands ⬅⬅⬅

When building a garage, many nuances are taken into account. One is the height of the gate, and we are talking not only about the height of the opening, but also about the height of the valves above ground level. The article will discuss the reasons why it is important to correctly calculate this height. In some cases, you have to raise the garage door in brick garage higher due to certain circumstances. The article will also describe several ways in which this can be done.

Why raise the gate

When it comes to the need to raise the gate, the case concerns swing structures. There is no such problem for folding structures, since they are able to automatically change their level. There are several reasons why you have to resort to raising the gate:

hinge wear;
frame deformation;
incorrect design;
violation of the integrity of the foundation;
vehicle replacement.

Old gate designs are made of sheet metal, which has a thickness of 3 or more millimeters. By itself, such a gate design is quite heavy, so it is normal that over time they begin to sag. The reason for this may be poor-quality metal loops. The rods lose their strength and the sashes partially lean forward. This complicates or makes it impossible for the gate to close normally.

Another reason why the gate needs to be raised is the wear of the metal corner. In most cases, beams with a width of 20 cm are used, but small corners are used to save money, which begin to deform from constant loads. In this case, the geometry of the frame is violated, which leads to problems with the gate. With the right design swing gates never level with the ground. Even with proper installation, this approach can be a problem in winter. The metal can be deformed under the influence of low temperature and the doors will not open, because they will cling to the asphalt.

Another problem that manifests itself when the gate is low is precipitation. If a significant amount of snow falls in winter, then you have to work hard to clear the space near the gate before entering or leaving the garage. In heavy rains, water will simply seep into the garage, which can create serious problems, especially if the garage has viewing hole or basement. In some cases, due to ground movements, there may be a problem with the deformation of the lower part of the frame. This also leads to the need to raise the gate. Walls can also be deformed, which lead to the drawdown of the gate and the impossibility of opening it.

In-line gate repair

In repair, two operations should be distinguished, completely different in terms of labor intensity and complexity of execution:

Raise one or both leaves, without dismantling the frame, racks or body, on which the garage door is fixed;
Overhaul or frame replacement, in which case it is necessary to disassemble the masonry and lift or remove the welded frame structure on which the sashes are hung.

Advice! If you do not have the skill of welding, it is better to entrust any replacement of the frame or sashes to specialists.

How to raise the gate in the garage with your own hands

The simplest and most affordable procedure, if you have the skill, you can try to lift even a very heavy sash alone. For example, if the wear of the friction surface of the hinges has reached its limit, and the garage door began to cling to the upper edge of the blind area, repair washers must be inserted. At the same time, pay attention to the installation of two thin steel washers made of hardened polished steel. The total thickness of the washers should be such as to increase the height of the garage door leaf above the threshold beam. Each washer has a cutout for the width of the pivot axis of the hinge and is lubricated on one side only.

In this case, there is no need to even lift and remove the garage door, it is enough just to lift them to a height of a few millimeters in order to insert a pair of steel washers into the gap formed in the hinges. To raise the gate leaves, it is necessary to turn them over an angle of more than 90°, then install a wooden or steel wedge under the lower edge of the leaf, as close as possible to the axis of rotation. A few blows on the wedge will help raise the gate by 2-3 mm. Then you can insert a rolling jack, raise the sash to any height and even remove it if necessary. If the hinges are completely out of order, you have to lift and digest.

In the same way, repairs are carried out if, due to deformation of the hinges or the frame of the garage door, the wings sag. In this case, a jack is installed under the edge of the sash, as far as possible from the axis of rotation, and they begin to slowly raise it, upsetting the place of deformation of the hinge or frame with a sledgehammer. If there is a gate in the design of the sash, it must be fixed with bolts or a coupler, but not removed. Most often, in 5-6 transitions, it is possible to straighten the gate, if not, you need to raise it to the maximum height, install the jack in a horizontal position with an emphasis on the opposite frame post and “squeeze out the geometry” of the frame until the beams and hinges are completely aligned.

Raising the garage door frame

The most difficult and time-consuming repair of the garage door is the lifting of the frame. heavy steel structure it is concreted into brick sidewalls, therefore, before lifting the structure, it is necessary to free up space for lifting and remove the gate leaves.

If the frame, along with the doors, is planned to be raised above ground level due to subsidence of the garage foundation, before raising the gate, you will need to knock out the top of the masonry by a brick or two, depending on the height of the lift. With a perforator or a construction hammer and a chisel, cement is knocked out from under the side racks of the frame and the threshold beam.

With an ordinary crowbar, they pry off the lower part of the frame and lift it to a small height, first in the center, and after installing the first wedge, they similarly try to lift it from the left and right edges. If it is possible to raise the frame, then the side wedges are clogged. They are placed, as a rule, on the opposite side of the threshold beam. After increasing the gap to 5-6 cm, it is necessary to install a rolling jack up to 5 tons, and then raise the structure using a hydraulic mechanism.

Raise the upper beam of the frame in the same way. Most often, you have to raise it if you need to increase the height of the garage door without dismantling it. After knocking out the upper rows of bricks with a grinder, a piece of vertical racks is cut off on both sides along with the upper horizontal part of the frame. The cut is made above the welding points of the loops.

The weight of the cut off part of the frame is no more than 70 kg, so it is easy to lift it with a conventional jack installed on the threshold. A log or beam is inserted between the top bar and the jack and carefully lifted to the desired height. After that, cut pieces of a similar material are welded into the gap in the frame.

Conclusion

It is necessary to lift a heavy frame in compliance with safety regulations. Often, when trying to raise the frame, the heavy structure heeled and overturned on the workers, so experts recommend installing spacers and blocking cable extensions.

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The safety of your property depends on the reliability and strength of the garage door. In addition to the protective function that they perform, they can also serve as an attractive addition to your home.

What to do if for some reason you cannot open the gate? For normal functioning just lift them up. The question arises, how to raise the gate in the garage? The answer is very simple: just follow some recommendations and you will succeed.

The design can easily be done by hand. In terms of quality, it will not differ from the one that will be installed by specialists. At the same time, it is necessary to fulfill step by step recommendations when installing the gate and be extremely careful. In addition, the installation of garage doors does not take much time.

Consider the positive points, without which the gate will simply be unnecessary.

Good gates - the security of your property

The car should easily enter the room.

The dimensions of the gate must ensure a normal check-in. It all depends on the model of your car. The width of the opening must be such that when the machine stops, a gap of approximately 30 cm remains in it. Height for passenger car should be from 1.70 to 2 meters, for a truck - 2.5 meters.

Gates must be strong and burglary resistant.

Gates should protect your property. The protective functions depend on the material from which the structure will be made. Metal - the most reliable and durable. A 2.5 mm wide galvanized steel sheet will do the job perfectly. With the help of overhead locks for external blocks and armored pads for the internal lock, you can further strengthen the structure. Wooden doors not very reliable, so they can only be installed in guarded parking lots.

Gates must be resistant to external factors.

The tighter the canvas adheres to the frame, the more reliable the protection. Use vertical locks to fix the desired position of the door. Vertical locks prevent skew of the structure, and also securely hold the door. You can use a sealant for even stronger fit of the structure to the frame.

Types of garage doors

There are different types of gates.

They consist of two wings, unlocked inward or outward. Basically preference for the latter. For the normal functioning of the structure, the presence of space in front of it is very important. This is the cheapest type of mechanism.

Open along the fence, from the inside. The main advantage is that there is no need for additional territory in front of the device.

They include separate sections that refract when opened, and thanks to a special system of springs and profiles, the canvas goes up to the ceiling. This type of gate also saves space.

The cloth contains the aluminum plates covered with polymer. When opened, it folds into a special box above the entrance to the garage.

In this type of device, the web is vertically lifted to the ceiling.

Stages of garage door installation

First of all, take measurements to understand the size of the future gate. As a rule, do-it-yourself swing metal garage doors are made. This type is simpler and cheaper. Sliding gates will be more difficult and expensive to make, but it is also possible. You need to take a drawing, buy a ready-made kit for assembly. The kit includes an installation manual, with the help of which the installation of the structure is done. As a rule, they are installed in summer cottages, in private households, warehouses.

You can also reduce costs by installing automation yourself. Take the drawing, buy the necessary components and follow the instructions.

You can make swing gates without buying expensive components. The materials used are a profile, sheet metal 1-3 mm, a steel corner.

Garage doors can be installed in a few steps:

Step #1. Frame manufacturing

The frame includes an external and internal frame made of a steel angle, the dimensions of which are 65x65 mm. You will need the following tools:

Bulgarian;
Construction level;
Square;
Welding machine;
Roulette.

We focus on the height and width of the gate in the manufacture of the frame. Measure and cut blanks for the frame from an iron corner with a section of 16-20 cm. Form the future frame strictly according to the level using linings. Then set the corners with a square. Check that the diagonals of the structure are the same, and then weld it.

In order for the canvas to fit snugly against the surface of the frame, its outer side must be even. Sand the welds. Make a lever out of the remnants of the corner, which is then welded to the corners of the frame, which will be their additional reinforcement.

Step #2 Making the frame

It is necessary to make a frame for two swing doors. An iron sheet is attached to each of them. Use a 60x20 mm profile to make the frame.

Insert the guides into the frame, align each side. Between them, make a gap of 20 mm so that the wings move freely. Check the square corners of the frame, then weld the profiles. Your frame is ready.

Step #3 Sheathing

To weld the gate, use a galvanized metal sheet 2-3 mm thick. It is necessary to cut out the desired size, while it is imperative to lay the sashes on top of each other by 10-20 mm. Thus, the right canvas will overlap on the left.

We weld from below and attach it to the frame.

Strengthening the gate is possible by strengthening: weld a horizontal iron belt at a height of one meter.

Step #4 Installation

Install power hinges on the garage door. The lower part must be welded to the garage frame, and the upper to the outside. To do this, attach a curved line of metal 0.5-0.7 cm thick to the top of the hinge and the sash. For a stronger connection, you can use a reinforcement tab.

A deadbolt is required to securely fix the position of the mechanism. To do this, you can use the design with a vertical pin. Drill holes in the ceiling and floor. Weld guide loops to the frame. For the pin, use a pipe with a diameter of 20-25 mm.

You can also use the clamping method of bolting the structure.

Step #5 Painting

Be sure to paint the canvas: this will protect it from adverse effects such as precipitation, moisture, damage. Before painting, prime, apply several layers of metal paint to the surface.

Step 6 Mounting

First of all, install the frame. It should facilitate the free movement of the valves.

Installing the gate is easy. First, attach the outer and inner parts of the frame to the slopes of the opening using iron pins 15-18 cm long. Scald their protruding ends, then grind with a grinder and paint over.

Do-it-yourself gate welding

These parts are firmly fastened together with metal jumpers 20-40 mm thick every 60 cm. This is done so that in the near future it is not necessary to repair the structure. Next, hang the sashes on the hinges and check how easily they move.

There are times when during operation it is necessary to correct the operation of the gate, as for some reason they do not function well.

Cases in which it is necessary to raise the garage door and how to do it

Raising the gate while maintaining the level

The most common case is when, due to the too low location of the gate, it is very difficult to open them, and sometimes it is not possible at all. If such a problem occurs in the summer, what can we say about the winter, when snow and ice interfere with their normal operation. Alternatively, you can cut the gate, and concrete the entrance to the garage. Thanks to this, a slope will be created, and the water will flow down. But if you work according to this method, then the size of the opening decreases.

In order to raise the garage door, the following materials are needed: channel, brick, water and a gate. You can get to work.

Stages of work:

Remove the doors;
Free the frame;
Remove several rows of bricks in front of the opening;
Raise the gate;
At the bottom, lift the dump;
Put the gate in its original place.

Before dismantling the gate to a level above 3-4 brick rows, wash the mortar between the bricks with water. In its place, lay a corner or channel. This is done before raising the garage door so that the building does not collapse. Otherwise, the roof of the garage will move out. Secure the channel or angle with anchor bolts.

garage height problem

Sometimes the problem with the normal functioning of the gate may be their height. Its solution will require experience and knowledge of the construction business. If your garage is brick, you need to remove 1 or 2 rows of masonry, then strengthen the resulting slope and raise the frame to the desired height.

There are many ways to solve the problem of a poorly functioning gate. You can choose the best solution for the problem. At the same time, the most common and the easy way to increase the space between the gate and the ground is to cut the bottom of the door leaves with a grinder.

Make your own garage doors. From quality materials and from accurate step by step installation will depend on how long the garage door will function.

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How to raise a garage: features of work

A properly installed garage opens well and is not flooded with water.

Today we will figure out how to raise a metal garage in order to strengthen its base, get rid of flooding, skewed gates and other problems. With the seeming complexity, almost anyone can cope with the work, and alone.

You just need to have everything at hand. necessary fixtures and strictly observe safety precautions so as not to harm health and not spoil the structure.

Description of the workflow and preparation for it

To do the job quickly and efficiently, you need to properly prepare for it. So you'll have to deal with a whole range of important nuances to determine if your garage can be raised.

Reasons for lifting the structure and conditions for safe work

To begin with, we will analyze what factors make it necessary to raise the garage, there are several of them:

Raising the groundwater level in the area. It often happens that during construction work nearby or the construction of a road embankment, the groundwater level rises. If you have a garage that heats up every spring and autumn, then this will be the main reason. You can solve the problem only by lifting the structure, there are simply no other options;

Garages are heated every spring ground water

The gates sank and open very poorly. Here, many begin to cut the sash and try to get by with small sacrifices. Although it is much more reasonable to raise the structure by 3-5 cm and get rid of this problem for a long time. Of course, if the hinges have sagged, then it’s not worth raising the garage, but if the doors rest due to the fact that the garage has sunk into the ground, then the problem must be solved correctly;

sagging garage - common problem

It is necessary to raise the level of the floor and insulate it. If you decide to make a screed and put foam under it, then the ceiling height in the garage will decrease by at least 10 cm, and the gate will be lower than the floor. Therefore, before such work, it is worth raising the entire structure, and then you do not have to digest the gate, or walk crouching in the garage;

When filling the floor, its level rises greatly

The structure was skewed due to uneven subsidence. This also happens, in order to compensate for all the irregularities, you need to raise either the entire garage, or its sagging part, it all depends on specific situation. This can also happen due to the destruction of the base or foundation, in order to update it, you also need to raise the structure and set it up as expected.

The skew led to the fact that the gate stopped closing

We figured out the causes of the problems, now we will deal with the factors that make raising the garage impossible:

Decay of construction. If the reliability of the supporting elements is of concern, then it is better to refuse to raise the garage. In the process of work, the frame is inevitably subjected to deformation effects, and the entire structure can simply collapse;

A dilapidated garage may not survive a refurbishment

Advice! If the garage is rusty, and you need to raise it, then you should first weld all the problem areas and reinforce the frame with corners or a channel.

Connection with other garages. Very often, in garage arrays, individual elements are interconnected, and when you raise your building, you can deform the neighboring ones. Make sure in advance that your structure is not connected to neighboring ones, and you will not damage other people's property;

An unsuccessful attempt to strengthen the foundation led to the collapse of the entire box

Absence necessary tool. Raise metal structure with bare hands or with a crowbar - a dubious decision. Most likely, you will not be able to do this, and in the process of work there is a high probability of injury.

An ax and a crowbar will not help solve the problem - more “serious” tools are needed

Work options

In this section, you will learn two ways to raise the garage with your own hands. We chose different variants work, they differ both in approach and in the materials used. You need to choose the one that works best for your situation.

The instructions for lifting the structure from the outside look like this:

Illustration	Description
	This technology is suitable for free-standing garages, which have access to any outside corner, and there is no shortage of space when working. In our case, the front part of the structure sank, which is why the gate opens very poorly. We will raise only this part.
	We will use a powerful railway jack designed for tens of tons. But you can also use hydraulic options that can withstand a load of at least three tons. There will be two jacks so that we can alternately raise the sides, and at the same time it was not necessary to carry the device from place to place.
	First of all, you need to dig a pit for installing a jack. If your structure is on the ground, then everything will be very simple. If there is a foundation or a flooded blind area around the garage, then you will have to break the concrete to provide normal access to the frame.
	The lift is done like this: A flat support is placed at the bottom of the pit, it can be a brick or a piece of board; A lifting mechanism is installed, it all depends on what type of structure is used; The rise begins - it is very important to constantly monitor the state of the structure. There should be no one inside, and you need to work carefully - with any extraneous sounds, it is better to immediately move a few meters away.
	The work is done very carefully: First you need to raise one side by 1-2 cm, then also raise the second side; Place boards for insurance in the resulting gap; After the structure is raised to the desired level, place additional supports to insure against any trouble.
	As supports, we will use the most budgetary solution: wooden blocks impregnated with bituminous mastic. To make the mastic impregnate the material better, it can be preheated. And you can apply the composition both with a regular brush, and by dipping into any container. The second option is preferable, but if there is no suitable reservoir, then you can get by with a brush. The price of mastic is low, and wooden blocks can be found for free.
	In order for the pads not to fall into the ground, stands are needed under them. We use a 40 mm thick board, but if you have concrete elements of a suitable shape, then you can lay them. The board is processed in the same way as the main props.
	Supports are placed as follows: Pits of the required size and depth are dug under the corners of the garage; A board is placed at the bottom, it is located diagonally relative to the corner; The pads are placed horizontally, as shown in the photo. Two elements go to the corner, it is much more reliable and durable; After setting the supports, the pits are filled up and the surface is leveled.

If you need to raise the building from the inside, then the workflow will look something like this:

Illustration	Description
	The device of the pit is complicated by the fact that most often the floor inside the garage is filled with concrete. You need to knock out part of the floor, and then select the soil to the required depth. The pit is made under the supporting frame so that you rest against it when lifting.
	On the other hand, the same work is being done. The easiest way is to knock out concrete with a hammer drill. If it is not there, then you will have to work with a sledgehammer and a crowbar. An armored belt can be a particular problem. It will not be possible to break the reinforcement manually, you must first free up space from concrete, and then cut the metal with a grinder or a hacksaw if there is no power tool at hand.
	Hydraulic jacks for 4 tons are used in the work. The lifting process is similar to the technology described above: two lifts are installed, work is carried out alternately, avoiding distortions and controlling the reliability of the frame. Important! Keep the doors open so that you can quickly leave the garage if necessary.
	To determine how much you need to raise the structure, first look at the gap under the gate leaves. It should be at least 3 cm so that everything can be easily opened even in winter, when a crust of ice and snow forms on the ground.
	Concrete or brick supports are placed at the corners of the frame. If your gap is small, then you can use concrete paving slabs or something different. The main thing is that the elements used are strong and durable.
	Support elements are also placed along the walls. They should be located every 30-40 cm so that the entire bearing part of the frame stands on a solid foundation and the structure is not subjected to deformation effects.
	A mortar is prepared from cement and sand, with which we will fill all the voids around the perimeter, creating a monolithic base. The components are mixed in a ratio of 1 part of cement to four parts of sand. Water is added little by little until the consistency of thick sour cream is obtained. If you need a lot of solution, then crushed stone can be used as a filler, it is added to the components indicated above in the amount of 3-4 parts. Instead of crushed stone, you can use broken brick or concrete, as well as stones.
	The solution is poured into all voids. Formwork boards can be placed on the outside so that the solution does not spread. At the junction of the body to the gate, you can make a slight rise to make it more convenient for you to drive into and out of the garage.
	The damaged floor also needs to be filled. If there are pieces of old concrete left, then you can lay it down and fill in all the voids to level the surface and strengthen it.
	As you can see in the photo, we also strengthened the driveway from the outside. The gates open easily, you can use the garage after 2-3 days, when the concrete gains its initial strength.

Conclusion

Now you know what to do if the garage heats up and you can choose the right solution for your situation. To understand the topic even better, watch the video, in which many points of the workflow are shown visually.

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It is worth noting that the need to raise the garage door can have several reasons. For example, the need to raise the garage door may be required in a situation where the garage door structure is not easy to open not only in winter, but even in summer. What to say about winter period when a layer of snow and ice prevents the gate from opening? If necessary, you can trim the structure itself. At the same time, the entrance is concreted. This ensures a natural slope. But at the same time, the above described method of raising the entrance gate reduces the dimensions of the structure.

Below we will consider the situation when it is required to maintain the existing level of the garage and slightly raise the gate. In this case, everything is carried out in stages. To begin with, experts advise dismantling the gate and freeing the frame. Then you need to remove several rows of bricks above the garage opening. At the same time, the backfill in the lower section can also be raised. Next, the design of the garage door must be returned to its original position.

Before removing the garage door from the hinges, experts recommend washing the mortar between the bricks of the same row to which the gate will rise. A channel should be installed in place of this row. Alternative option is the installation of a reliable and high-strength corner. This operation is carried out immediately before the garage door is raised. In addition, this approach will save the structure from possible destruction. The installation of a channel or angle must be carried out by using reliable anchor bolts.

At the same time, do not forget that raising the garage door even by a couple of bricks can significantly increase the available clearance between the gate, as well as the garage floor. In this case, you can use one of several methods to resolve this issue. The most optimal is concreting. In addition, if necessary, you can install a special threshold. Whichever option is chosen, it is worth making sure that the slope is directed from the garage to the street, and not vice versa. Otherwise, do not be surprised that water flows into the garage during rain, causing dampness. And dampness, as any motorist is well aware, causes corrosion of the car body. And dampness is also very harmful to the garage itself. Given all of the above, we can conclude that it is not so difficult to lift the garage door on your own, as it seems at first glance. All steps can be carried out independently, that is, with your own hands.

There is a proverb "I passed the sopromat, I passed everything." And yet, some garage "experts" like to assure that they made "hard gates".

Competent engineers are aware of a simple truth - “there are no rigid metal structures”, and a shipbuilding engineer, having heard about the strength of materials, will smile and say that "Strength of materials is a special case of Structural Mechanics, in which movement is not taken into account." This is us to the question of why it is sometimes necessary to raise the garage door. Now a little more detail on how to do this.

The main reasons for changing the geometry of the gate, or opening

General fatigue of the metal, settlement of hinges, natural deformations at the end of installation, settlement of the opening (the frame in which the gate is mounted) for various reasons, some other factors (for example, in hot, cloudless weather a couple of years ago there were problems of thermal deformations of metal structures).

In each of these cases, the decision is made individually, but we will consider several simple methods that are available with a simple tool with an assistant.

Ways to raise (correct the geometry) of the gate

Sagging hinges, (the gate is deformed, or something else). To raise (for example, one sash) you can use a spacer washer. We remove the sash from the hinges, put a washer of the required thickness on the axis of the lower hinge, return the sash to its place. Sometimes it is difficult to pick up the puck, then we put a ball of a suitable diameter into the loop where the hole is.
This method allows you to correct small distortions of the leaves, slightly raise the gate, and facilitate movement on the loop. Very important! The material of the washer and ball must be of a harder alloy than the loop itself!
The need to change the distance from ground level to the bottom of the wings.
The easiest way is to cut off the lower part with a grinder, then fix the rubber strip to close the gap. Applicable if the sheathing sheet protrudes beyond the lower frame beams. If the gate is mounted so that the lower beam is at ground level, you will first need to cut the beam, then the metal, weld the beam in place.

By the way, in our practice there are structures where the lower part (about 10 cm) is mounted on hinges, and when the gate is opened, it can be folded back.
The skew of the valves, due to the deformation of the opening.
If you do not touch the opening, then the easiest way to determine the skew zone (as a rule, the sashes do not close in the upper or lower part), on the sash that does not give a bow, cut the horizontal beam, cut down a few mm. With effort (you may need a jack), we press the vertical beam of the frame - we weld it. Up to gaps of 7-12 mm, sheet metal deformations will be invisible.

We must weld the place of welding with an additional metal strip, since residual deformations will occur here! If you do not strengthen this place, the weld will simply tear over time.
The need to increase the height of the opening. The most difficult case, which will take time, the ability to lay bricks, additional equipment. How to do this can be found on construction sites. We will consider a situation where the problem was solved more simply.

An example of a simple solution in a difficult situation

So, the new car did not pass through the dimensions of the upper part of the garage opening. 6-7 cm across the width of the car itself, 14 cm on the right - on the left, at the places where the roof rails are installed (by the way, one of the most common reasons when you need to raise the gate in height!).

Some garage craftsmen immediately advised dismantling the upper part of the opening (reducing the number of rows of bricks is a common approach), re-scalding the frame, thus increasing the height of the opening. In fact, it is very difficult to raise the entire upper part by 14 cm (2.5 rows of bricks), but this was not required. How the problem was solved.

In the floor of the garage (concrete, as well as a race with a slope of about 2 meters long), grooves were hollowed out with a width of 2 - 2.5 tires each, a depth of 10 cm. . The bottom of the track was covered with corrugated metal fixed to the floor.
On the example of another car (garage cooperatives are good because there will always be almost the same car - in this case without roof rails). Take into account the difference in tire height. We determined the gap between the roof of the car and the upper frame in the most unloaded state - 7 cm.
On the left and right, in the upper part of the opening, 60 cm of the channel were cut out (the middle part was supported with beams just in case). They knocked out several bricks, and scalded the resulting U-shaped slots with a channel, which was fixed into a brick.
We checked the smooth check-in and check-out on the right car, made sure that everything was done correctly.
After that, I had to lift the necessary sheets a little, since the gates stopped closing these holes, which was done on the spot, after the sashes had already been put in place.

We hope that when you face a similar problem, this article will help you be smart, use simple solutions, and not try to solve the problem head-on, as experts from the Internet advise.

Source: http://VorotaGate.ru/garazhnye-vorota/kak-podnyat

Do-it-yourself garage doors: how to make a profile and how to raise a structure in a brick garage

Today there are a huge number of designs of garage doors. They differ in structural elements, as well as in the quality of filling. Someone prefers primitive models, while someone equips their car storage with more powerful systems.

Making a garage door with your own hands is a great option for those who want to equip such a structure with durable doors that are as suitable as possible in size and filling.

What are the types of garage doors and is it possible to design them yourself without the help of professionals and without experience in this matter?

Types of garage doors

There are several varieties of garage doors, most of which appeared not so long ago.

And before you figure out how to make a garage door with your own hands, consider the types of such products:

swing type gate

Swing garage doors.

The most ancient and at the same time reliable version of the gate. Such structures are installed everywhere: they can be used not only to equip garages, they have earned the trust of many years of trouble-free practice, even in harsh operating conditions.

The design of these samples consists of 2 wings fixed on hinges in the frame. The sashes, if everything is assembled correctly, close tightly without forming gaps between the frame. The mechanism of operation of swing gates is simple, but, as practice shows, it is very reliable.

Retractable type

Gates first began to be used at the beginning of the 20th century. By design, this is one sash that slides to the side parallel to the front wall. There are designs consisting of two wings. In this case, the sashes will move apart on different sides.

There may also be sliding gates that fold into several sections. A feature of the device of such models is the mandatory presence free space to move the shutters. Therefore, such structures are most often used to equip hangars and industrial premises.

Lifting and turning mechanisms

Lift gate design.

Their development and production in our country began to be engaged not so long ago. By design, this is one canvas that rises up. The option is suitable for equipping a garage and arranging an entrance to a private plot.

Overhead sectional doors

Like the previous version, the models have recently appeared on our market. They are a panel assembled from sections that refract and move upwards along the guides when the command to open the gate is given with a remote control or a button.

The mechanism works due to the spring in it and guides with a chain drive. One of the biggest benefits is space savings.

Roller type gate

Garage rooms are extremely rarely equipped with such structures, due to their low reliability. Externally - aluminum plates, folding into a special box under the ceiling. Similar designs are most often equipped with objects with security and a pass system.

When choosing a garage door, it is important to take into account not only their appearance, functionality and reviews of advertisers, but also other, more important indicators: strength, durability and the ability to work in specific climatic conditions.

As mentioned earlier, swing gates will be the most reliable and durable option: they work even in any frost and are able to protect the room not only from freezing, but also from burglary, if equipped with a solid locking system.

Do-it-yourself gate: features of the work

Based on the fact that swing gates are most often used to equip garages, let's take an example of how to make a simple, but very reliable design with your own hands.

Features of welding garage doors.

Having purchased all the necessary consumables and prepared some tools, you can make swing garage doors on your own from start to finish.

For their device, the following materials will be required:

steel corners;
profiles;
metal sheets.

The dimensions of the gates and their features can be designed in advance, which makes it possible to make a design that is most suitable for the parameters of the building and the aesthetic preferences of its owner.

You can try to make a lift-and-turn type gate on your own, but the work requires considerable engineering experience and knowledge. In this case, it is important to understand how the counterweight system is organized and the mechanism itself is installed so that the system works flawlessly.

Most often, structures of this type are purchased in already ready-made, and their installation is carried out in accordance with the instructions attached to the product.

Therefore, if there is a desire to equip your garage with just such a system, then it is advisable to purchase a finished product.

And now let's take a closer look at the specifics of the manufacture of swing garage doors.

Garage door design

Garage door drawing.

As with the organization of any construction business that requires high precision, before proceeding with the manufacture of garage doors, it is necessary to make a project for the future design.

It is not difficult to make a drawing of a garage door on your own, it is enough to sketch a sketch on a regular sheet of paper, measure all the important elements and indicate the location of the hinge connections, the entrance, if it is assumed by the project, and the locking system.

First you need to choose the right height and width of the structure. The width of the wings is considered to be the minimum, at which the distance from the car body on both sides to the frame remained at least 30 cm. Of course, the larger this gap, the easier and more convenient it is to drive a car into the garage.

In practice, the maximum frame width is 5 meters. Most often, the gates are made 2.5-3 meters wide.

The height of the products is selected depending on the dimensions of the vehicle. Most often it is 2-2.2 meters. If a minibus is stored in the garage, then it is better to expand this parameter to 2.5 meters.

In our case, the structure will consist of a frame and a pair of wings fixed to it by means of hinges. Guided by the project and the dimensions indicated on it, we calculate and purchase the required number of consumables.

Gate frame manufacturing

It is best to start making a frame at the stage of erecting the walls of a garage structure. This will fix the gate in the body of the building, which will make the whole structure more reliable and durable.

During the laying of the front wall, when up to 0.5 m of masonry is ready, construction works suspended and retrained for the installation of the gate frame, after which you can continue to build walls.

To make a frame, you will need steel corners 65 mm, strips 2-3 cm wide, 3-4 mm thick and a reinforcing bar, with which the frame will be fixed in the opening of the structure. As for the tools, the work requires a grinder, a square, a building level, a tape measure and a welding machine.

The garage frame in our case consists of an outer and an inner part.

The manufacturing algorithm for this structural element is as follows:

We cut the corner with a grinder into 4 segments with a length equal to the width of the gate opening.
You will also need 4 more segments with a length equal to the height of the gate opening.
We place the cut off parts of the corner on a flat surface, checking it in advance building level for distortion, which is unacceptable on this stage building process.
We measure all the angles - they should be equal to 90 ° and use a welding machine to weld them together. As a result, you should get an even frame. Corners are welded either with an overlap, or by cutting off their edges and welding butt to butt. The first option, in comparison with the second, is more durable.
On the outside of the frame, carefully remove all welding flaws using a grinder.
Otherwise, the protruding seams will prevent the sashes from fitting snugly to the frame.

Folding frame manufacturing

Next, we move on to the manufacture of the frame of the gate leaves. It should be slightly smaller in size than the garage door frame itself, which will ensure its easier entry into the opening. Compliance with this condition contributes to a tighter fit of the sashes to the outer side of the frame.

The algorithm for manufacturing the frame part of the valves consists in performing the following steps:

First of all, it is necessary to cut 4 pieces from the corner or profile along the length, less than the height of the frame by 1-1.5 cm.
Thanks to this gap, the sash will easily go into the opening. Since this design assumes the presence of two wings, 4 more horizontal segments will be required, with a length equal to the width of the main frame, divided in half and minus 3-3.5 cm.
We place the cut off parts of the corner on a flat surface, check them for skew, measure the corners and weld.
It is better if this process is carried out together with an already welded frame - this way all the flaws and inaccuracies will be visible.
In order to strengthen the structure, we weld a horizontal bar, which acts as a spacer and reduces the risk of withdrawal and distortion of the future structure.

Manufacturing of gates

Sash, as a rule, are made of sheet material. The most practical and reliable is a sheet with a thickness of at least 2 mm.

Ribs for garage doors.

The gate building process is as follows:

First of all, it is necessary to cut 2 canvases from sheet metal: one is 30-40 mm higher than the height of the garage opening and less than 10-20 mm wide of the frame width, the other is the same height, and 20 mm wider than the frame.
The next step is welding the sheets to the frame in such a way that the top and bottom panels protrude onto the frame by 10-20 mm.
One of the sashes, which will open in the second place, should not fit tightly in width to the edge of the frame, leaving a 10 mm edge free. This will ensure a tighter fit of the second alignment. The panel of the second sash, on the contrary, is welded in such a way that it protrudes beyond the frame part by 20-40 mm.
Next, we proceed to welding reinforced loops.
The lower half is welded to the main frame, and the upper half to the wings. In order to strengthen the fastening of the hinge, it can be supplemented with a welded metal insert. We take a strip 5-7 mm thick, bend it and weld it to the upper half of the hinges and to the sash. The reinforcing tab is welded from the inside.

Advice! During welding of sheet material, it can lead. In order to avoid skewing of the valves, the corners and the middle of the canvases are first of all tacked by welding, after which the entire sheet is tacked with point movements in increments of 10-15 cm.

If all structural elements are on a flat surface, the sashes are located on top of the frame, it is possible to consider whether everything is welded correctly and where there are any flaws. This makes it possible to take corrective action in a timely manner.

If the design is of high quality, then after these works we proceed to install the gate in the garage opening.

Gate installation

First of all, you should install the gate frames: internal and external. Recall that the frame part is installed at the stage of erecting the front wall of the garage structure itself. Do not forget to check the evenness of the frame using a square and a building level.

After that, you can continue laying out the front wall of the structure, embedding the bars into the masonry.

Having reached the top of the structure, a floor beam should be installed on the frame. It can be metal or concrete - at the discretion of the developer. It remains only to hang the sashes on the hinges and check the performance of the entire gate mechanism: how the sashes open / close, whether anything interferes with their movement.

Insulation and installation of constipation, locks

Such structures can be insulated different material, ranging from polystyrene and ending with mineral wool.

But recently, extruded polystyrene foam has been increasingly used for such purposes. It is fixed by laying a lining on it or another facing material: it is enough to spread the insulation inside the sashes and fill, for example, sheets of plywood from above.

It remains only to choose a locking system. Garage structures are most often equipped with a locking system: one sash is closed from the inside with a lock, the other - from the outside with a lock, padlock or internal. If this the padlock, then it is necessary to equip the sashes on the outside with rings.

Outcome

If you follow the tips above, carefully check the correct dimensions, then it is quite possible to get a strong, reliable garage door that will serve you faithfully for a long time. The design makes it possible to insulate the gate by laying the foam from the inside and making the sheathing.

Making a garage door with your own hands takes about 2 days. This product will have a unique size and design, if you want to make something special. Good luck!

Source: https://vseprogarazh.ru/etapy/vorota/garazhnye-vorota-svoimi-rukami/

How to increase the height of the garage door: a step-by-step master class - Mastermont.ru

Often, the height of the gate of an already finished garage does not suit the owner. Perhaps the person decided to buy a new car, say, an SUV, whose height is higher than usual cars, or it became necessary to use the garage for other purposes when you need to drive a small truck inside, for example, a Gazelle.

But the gates for a private garage were previously created using a certain amount of metal in order to save money - the calculation of the amount of materials used was carried out taking into account the size of a standard steel sheet 2-3 mm thick (photo 1).

Photo 1. Standard garage doors

Today, the height of the garage doors of other owners has ceased to suit, and many have begun to increase this size (photo 2).

Photo 2. The height of the front wall allows you to increase the gate

Buying materials and choosing a tool

Of course, you can invite specialists who will do it quickly and efficiently. However, not everyone has enough money to pay for the work of hired workers and purchase the materials they use. Often, craftsmen require the purchase of new metal, which is an order of magnitude more expensive than the one that was already in use.

In turn, the garage owner can pick up the necessary rolled metal from an organization that collects scrap metal. The material selected from scrap can cost 2-3 times less than you have to pay for new rolled metal. At the same time, the strength of metal structures made of old metal is quite enough to ensure the strength of the finished product.

But it is not recommended to save on tools and equipment. Need to prepare workplace by setting the required height strong scaffolding- when performing work, a person must be in a stable position, which will prevent him from falling with a working tool and getting injured.

The hammer drill and angle grinder must be powerful, and equipment such as drills and cut-off wheels must be purchased. good quality on which the speed of work and the safety of the worker will depend.

For example, for cutting brick wall It is recommended to use special cutting diamond wheels. For welding, it is enough to use a small inverter welding machine, operating from a conventional network at 220V and welding metal with electrodes with a diameter of 3-4 mm.

I would like to add that such work should be undertaken by a person who has at least a little idea how to use specialized equipment, and who has little practical skills in using such tools.

Tools and equipment

Scaffolding;
Powerful angle grinder;
Perforator or powerful drill;
Plumb;
Construction level;
Inverter welding machine;
Welding helmet (it is recommended to choose a mask of the "Chameleon" type);
Welding gloves and preferably a welding suit;
Two cutting wheels for metal;
Cutting wheels for concrete, one of which has a maximum diameter (photo 3 and 4);
Drill for metal d=8.5 mm;
Drill for concrete d=8 mm;
MP3 electrodes with a diameter of 3 mm, although it is possible to work with electrodes of 4 mm;
A hammer;
Bit;
13 open-end wrench for anchor bolts;
Plastic film to protect the garage from dust;
Respirator to protect the respiratory tract;
Special glasses that protect the eyes from dust and small pebbles that form when making channels for a new gate frame;
Clothing that maximally protects parts of the body from dust.

Photo 3. A set of cutting wheels for concrete

Photo 4. Cutting wheel for concrete maximum diameter

materials

Corner with a shelf width of 40-75 mm for building the door frame (focus on the corner from which the frame is already made);
Corner with a shelf width of 30-35 mm for the gate frame;
Sheet scraps 2-2.5 mm thick.

The amount of rolled metal and sheet dimensions are calculated based on the area by which the gate will increase.

Procedure for building gates

The scaffolding is firmly and stably installed.

The contour of the new frame of the garage door is outlined.

Inside the garage, a plastic film is fixed in such a way as to prevent dust generated during operation from entering the room.

The corner prepared for building up the gate frame is cut, with a note of each segment about its location in the structure.

A cut is being made brickwork garage walls along the contour of the new door frame, first outside the garage. It is better to cut the wall horizontally along the seam located between the bricks (photo 5), which will facilitate the even laying of the channel and the further removal of the excess masonry array.

Photo 5. Sawing a masonry seam

The vertical cut is made along the intended contour (photo 6) with a maximum recess in the existing part of the frame for ease of installation of a new design (photo 7).

Photo 6. Cut along the intended contour

Photo 7. Recess in the frame

The sufficiency of the depth of the strobe is checked by the segment remaining when cutting the corner with a shelf width of 40-75 mm (photo 8).

Photo 8. Checking the depth of the strobe

After completing the cut from the outside (photo 9), the sections of the corner for the frame are installed (photo 10) with careful welding of the seams at the junction of the segments (photo 11). When installing corner segments, it is advisable to check their location using a plumb line and a building level.

After checking, the structural elements are fixed in some way, after which the seams are welded.

In the case of the enlargement shown in the photographs, the gate was installed incorrectly during the construction of the garage, which had to be compensated by adjusting the newly created frame and sash construction, which will be especially noticeable in the photographs with the already enlarged gate. When performing welding work, it is recommended to have a fire extinguishing agent nearby.

Photo 9. The cut is ready

Photo 10. Installation of segments for the corner of the frame

Photo 11. It is necessary to carefully weld the seams at the junction of the segments

For better attachment to the existing masonry of the structure being created, it is advisable to use anchor expansion bolts (photo 12).

Photo 12. In these conditions, it is best to use anchor expansion bolts

The diameter of the bolts used is 8 mm with a length of 60 mm (photo 13). It is enough to fix the horizontal segment of the corner in four places. First, a hole in the corner to the brickwork is drilled with an 8.5 mm metal drill, and then the hole for the anchor bolt is deepened with an 8 mm drill for concrete to the desired depth. After that, anchor bolts are inserted, and the structure is attached to the wall.

Photo 13. Anchor spacer bolts 60 mm long and 8 mm in diameter

After assembling and fixing the new structure from the outside, the necessary wall cuts are made from the inside, after which the elements of the gate frame are assembled in the same order and fastened from the inside.

The next stage is the preparation of parts for building up the sashes. To do this, cutting the existing sheets and cutting the corner with a shelf width of 30-35 mm into segments of the required length is performed.

Next, the fabric of the stackable section of each of the gate leaves is assembled. The assembled sections of the canvases are butt-welded from above to the gate leaves, and for fixing they are attached to the new section of the frame by spot welding in several places (photo 14).

Photo 14. Assembly of the canvas and fixing to the frame by spot welding

After that, excess brick is removed from the inside of the garage, gently chipping when using chisel and hammer tools. Before extracting excess sections of the wall, it is also necessary to fix the inner part of the stackable structure of the gate frame with anchor bolts (photo 15).

Photo 15. Inner part canvases must also be fixed with anchor bolts

When the unnecessary pieces of the wall are removed, the frame structure is additionally strengthened and the extension part of the gate leaves is reinforced with the frame (photo 16). All new structural elements that increase the size of the gate are thoroughly welded, because the strength of the finished product depends on this.

Photo 16. The whole structure is thoroughly boiled

The lower locks of the gate are fitted in place when new elements are added to the existing frame (photo 17). Then the floor is poured to the required level, or the gate frame is completely built up from below.

Photo 17. Adjustment of the lower constipation

The upper locks of the gate are built up and adjusted along the upper edge of the enlarged frame (photo 18).

Photo 18

On the outer side of the gate, the upper hinges are cut off and welded higher due to the increased size of the leaves (photos 19 and 20).

Photo 19

Photo 20

The final step is painting the gate with special paint (photo 21). It is recommended to use a coloring composition that performs three functions - the paint replaces the primer, if necessary, converts rust and creates a protective paint layer on the metal.

Photo 21. New painted gate

If a person has little skills in working with a special tool for concrete and has an idea about welding, then he will be able to build the gate on his own, thus saving significant funds from the family budget.