Do-it-yourself inspection hole in the garage: planning. A good viewing hole in the garage with your own hands Garage with a viewing hole with your own hands

24.11.2019

If you want to equip your garage in such a way that it has maximum functionality, then its space must be supplemented. viewing hole. At the same time, you can not only store your car in it, but also store things, repair and inspect the car.

Features of the viewing hole

If you will equip a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands, you need to choose the dimensions at the first stage. But it is important to think about whether you really need such a component. Two decades ago, the presence of this element in the garage was not discussed, however, with the development of service stations, a category of car owners appeared who did not see the point in servicing the car on their own. An inspection hole in the garage with your own hands made of iron can be equipped. But if you do not want to spend time and effort on an independent technical inspection, then you will not need it. Some argue that a recess in the garage can negatively affect the elements of the car, because fumes rise from the bottom. This is true only in the case when the work is not done according to technology. After all, it is important to insulate the pit, to make it convenient for your own use. By providing the underground space with an airtight cover, you can be sure that even a poorly insulated pit will not be a source of fumes.

When it is not possible to equip a viewing hole

Do-it-yourself inspection pit in the garage can not be equipped in all cases. This will depend on the lines of groundwater occurrence. If their level is higher than 2 meters, then such work will be impractical, this is due to the fact that the space will be filled with water. But if necessary, even the most critical conditions can be overcome by having a good drainage system, as well as good waterproofing. A do-it-yourself inspection pit in the garage is often built from concrete, it also needs to be supplemented with drainage, but this task is quite difficult, it should be dealt with exclusively knowledgeable people during the construction phase of the garage. If you have to create this system on an existing building, this may be accompanied by the application of a large number of forces and means. Among other things, such manipulations are not always effective.

If the occurrence of groundwater under an existing building indicates that the pit should be abandoned, then this hint must be heeded. Alternative solution the equipment of a lying pit may come out, which may well replace a full-fledged one in some cases. If you equip a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands, then you need to invite the appropriate specialists who will be able to analyze the level of groundwater. If you decide to spend the least amount of money on these manipulations, then you can check it yourself, but it will take much more time. To do this, you should dig a pit, but you should not immediately concrete it. You need to wait for the flood season, heavy rain will do. After that, you will be able to evaluate its consequences.

Inspection hole dimensions

If it seems to you that a viewing hole is a fairly standard part of a garage, you may be wrong. Such a device may have several options. It can be combined with a cellar and a basement, make a narrow recess, which will be operated using a ladder, and also arrange a lying pit, which was mentioned above. Dimensions should be chosen depending on the master who will most often use the pit. It is important to take into account the size of the car, as well as its intended location. The width should not be less than 80 centimeters; 1 meter can be chosen as the optimal parameter. In depth, the pit should measure from 1.8 to 2 meters. This parameter is the most important, and it will depend on the height of the person. Most suitable option the depth is considered to be 15 cm more than the height of the master. Most often, the length is used as a size within 2 meters. If you will equip a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands, then when planning it is necessary to take into account that the mentioned indicators are not given for the pit itself. It is necessary to dig it out with allowances of 50 cm for width and length. As for the depth, you need to increase it by 25 cm. If you plan to insulate the walls, then the dimensions of the pit must be increased by the width of the insulation, most often this figure is 50 millimeters.

Floor arrangement

After the pit is prepared taking into account the selected dimensions, you can do the floor. If you correctly approach the construction, then there will be no issues with dampness during operation. Thus, it must be taken into account that the inspection pit in the garage, equipped with your own hands, must be equipped with ventilation. To do this, a hole is left in the floor through which a flexible hose is inserted underground and to the surface. It is an air duct on which a cover is put on. Initially, it is necessary to fill up the preparation for concrete. It will be represented by two layers, the first of which assumes the presence of gravel, while the second - sand. The first layer is filled up with a thickness of 10 centimeters, the second - 5 centimeters. Each of them should be watered with water and well compacted. The surface of the floor should be treated with clay and a layer of waterproofing should be laid. Next, the reinforcement is mounted and concreting is carried out. As soon as the mortar layer gains its strength, another layer of waterproofing should be put, only after the master can start finishing.

Alternative floor arrangement

If you do not want to bother yourself too much, then you can go the easier way, for this it is enough to lay out the bottom of the viewing hole with a brick. However, this approach can be considered rational only if groundwater is located at a sufficient depth. This is due to the fact that good waterproofing cannot be achieved in this case.

The choice of materials for waterproofing

If you are going to equip a home-made viewing hole in the garage with your own hands, you can choose its dimensions yourself. However, it is important to think about waterproofing. There are a great many such materials on the market, but it should be noted that the one you choose must be effective. This is especially important for the reason that the pit will be subjected to heavy loads in terms of excess moisture. However, it is important to exclude the option of overpayment. Guided by the above considerations, polymeric membranes, which are presented in a single layer version, can be especially distinguished from a number of commercially available materials. Their thickness can vary from 1.5 to 2 millimeters. With regard to two-layer membranes of this type, their maximum thickness can be equal to 3.1 millimeters. This material is characterized by resistance and durability. But it has the most impressive price compared to others. Rather, installation will be expensive, which requires the need for special tools and certain skills.

If you want to save money, then you should choose bituminous materials, these include roofing material and bituminous grease. Installing them is quite easy, but you should not count on a service life that exceeds 20 years. A do-it-yourself inspection pit being built in the garage, the dimensions of which were mentioned above, can be waterproofed with bituminous components. The material is sold in rolls, you can cut it to the required dimensions, and then stick it with an overlap of 15 cm. You can glue it by heating or using a bituminous solvent. An alternative solution to the above two methods is considered to be a waterproofing lubricant. It was invented relatively recently and is inexpensive. Applying it is easy enough. The surface must be damp, then the material will completely saturate the concrete and protect it from excess moisture.

Insulation of a viewing hole

Do-it-yourself inspection pit in the garage (the photo of which is presented in the article) is rarely insulated. Experts say that inexperienced craftsmen needlessly neglect this manipulation.

This is especially true for those garages that are heated. If you make thermal insulation, then you minimize the cost of heating.

Insulation must be glued to brick or concrete, after the walls and floor can be subjected to decorative trim. If during waterproofing work you may doubt the choice of a certain material, then experts advise using expanded polystyrene as a heater. However, it is important to consider labeling. Thus, PSB-S-35 is perfect for the floor, while PSB-S-25 can be used for walls.

Wall construction

If a self-made inspection hole is being built in the garage, then for its walls you can choose one of the two most common solutions. One of them involves the use of concrete, while the other involves the use of bricks. If desired, both options can be plastered or tiled, as well as fiberglass. Preparation before using concrete or brick looks the same. The surface of the walls is covered with a layer of clay, on which dense polyethylene is covered. At the next stage, the formwork is installed, the thickness should be equal to fifteen centimeters.

When a do-it-yourself do-it-yourself inspection hole is made in the garage, the construction of walls must be accompanied by the fulfillment of two conditions. One of them provides for the need for a safety rail. Its task is to prevent the wheel of the car from falling into the pit. Among other things, it prevents water from entering the wheels directly into the pit. It should be made in the form of a plank, which resembles the shape of the letter T. It contains metal at its base, and it is necessary to strengthen the element to the formwork, placing it flush with the floor surface. This bar will act as a support for the lid. Among the additional components are niches and ledges in the wall, they will become shelves for various tools and necessary things. The master will be able to appreciate the convenience of such ledges at the first use of the pit for its intended purpose.

Lighting

If you build a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands, she simply needs lighting. Some masters oppose the presence of lighting fixtures inside. A number of motorists use portable lamps that have a powerful battery. However, if we take into account the level of comfort, then the presence indoor lighting worth considering. If you want to arrange everything according to the rules, then you should be guided by SNiP, which indicate that the voltage in the outlet inside the pit should not exceed 36 V. Special lamps can be found for this voltage. It is strictly forbidden to use standard 220 volts inside, as they can become a threat to life.

Pit cover

When you equip a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands, you can create a reliable cover from the boards. To do this, use wood, the thickness of which is 50 mm. However, a thickness of 35 millimeters will suffice. This is due to the fact that the boards will not experience a constant load. The cover can be made from different materials, it will depend on what the edging of the pit was formed from. If this is a steel corner, then the cover can be made from several shields. In their lower part, you can fix small rollers. Shields can be formed from wooden planks, the width of which varies from 30 to 35 millimeters. When a do-it-yourself inspection pit is made of bricks in the garage, the cover can be formed according to the roller shutter principle. To do this, use boards whose thickness is 40 millimeters, while the length will correspond to the width of the pit. On each board, grooves must be made at both ends into which a steel cable is threaded. Springs should be installed between it and the bar, which will provide mobility. The cable is fixed on the last board, while a handle is installed at the opposite end. It will only be necessary to pull on it a little, which will allow you to open the pit as much as necessary to carry out a certain kind of work. In general, almost all materials can be used to make any part of the pit and its components.

Every car owner sooner or later faces minor repairs to his car. vehicle. An ordinary check of the technical condition of the machine can turn into hours of waiting. Saving money and time will allow you to have your own viewing hole in the garage, which you can do with your own hands.

Functions and necessity of an inspection and vegetable pit in the garage

The need for an inspection hole in the garage is obvious, since in cases of oil changes, minor repairs to the bottom of the body or a routine inspection, you have to set aside several hours for a trip to the station Maintenance and pay for expensive services.

The pit for technical inspection of the car can also be used as a cellar or vegetable store. For this, niches and shelves are constructed inside it.

Condition quality use inspection pit as a technical structure and a place for storing products is the observance of all construction standards and the availability of reliable waterproofing of the floor and walls.

Even such simple design requires careful planning. An important point at the same time, the quality of the soil and the level of groundwater are determined. The most suitable basis for such structures is clay soil. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that it does not allow moisture to pass through, which means it can become a kind of waterproofing layer.

With a large accumulation of groundwater and a high level of their location, the inspection pit is additionally equipped with a drainage system to remove excess moisture, as well as submersible pumps so that the room can be quickly dried.

Step-by-step guide to making a viewing hole

Installation of a viewing hole can be carried out independently. There is nothing difficult in this, if you follow detailed instructions.

How to determine size

To make a calculation of the area of \u200b\u200bthe future viewing hole, you need to take into account the thickness of the walls and base. For such calculations, it is necessary to remember the course of geometry and resort to a simple formula that determines the area - S \u003d ah, where a is the length, h is the width of the pit. observation hole in ready-made will have dimensions of 75x185x300 cm. The thickness of the concrete walls and floor, as a rule, is about 10 cm. The calculations will be as follows: 0.85x3 \u003d 2.55 m² - this is the area of \u200b\u200bthe pit for the viewing hole.

Comfortable work in the inspection pit creates a properly calculated space, namely, its parameters should be convenient for the complexion of the person in it. Usually the width of the pit is built in the range from 70 to 75 cm. This width is enough for you to move freely inside. The same distance between the walls makes the observation structure convenient for check-in passenger car.

The pit can be wider if the inspection hole is intended for large or trucks. The distance between the inner sides of the wheels of such vehicles is much larger (from 80 to 90 cm).

The observation pit is arranged in such a way that the walls narrow slightly to the floor. Schematically, in cross section, its design resembles an inverted trapezoid. This shape provides easy access to tools in niches and free movement.

The length of the inspection hole is selected based on the size of the garage. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room allows, then a staircase can be provided in the pit. To do this, the length of the pit is increased by 100–120 cm.

The depth of the pit "with a margin" for installing the floor

The height of the pit is at least 170–180 cm. These dimensions are relative, since the depth is made in accordance with the growth of the car owner. Being in the inspection hole, a person should not touch the bottom of the car with his head.

For additional safety of the car and its owner, the inspection pit is equipped with metal limiters. Usually they are four pillars fixed at the corners of the niche. They rise 10-15 cm above it. Sometimes not four pillars are used for technical inspection, but two metal corners. They are fastened against each other along the edges of the length of the pit.

The depth should be 25-30 cm more than the growth of the owner. With such a distance from the base to the body, the hands will not quickly get tired, as this makes it possible for them to be in a bent position.

Materials and tools

Most often, concrete, wood, metal or brick are used for manufacturing.

To calculate the required amount of concrete, you must use the formula that determines the volume. To do this, multiply the values of the length, width and height of the wall. Similar calculations are carried out for the floor.

If a brick is used during the construction of the pit, then, knowing its parameters, it is easy to calculate the required amount of this material in pieces. The dimensions of the red brick are 250x120x60 mm.

When building a viewing hole, you can not do without the following tools:

shovel and bayonet shovel;
buckets for excavated earth and concrete mix;
trowels;
welding machine;
hacksaws.

The following materials are also required:

bricks;
cement, sand, gravel;
concrete M200 for the base;
boards with a section of 400x50 mm;
reinforcing bars;
metal corner 50 mm wide;
waterproofing material.

Instructions for making a viewing hole from bricks, boards, concrete and iron

All work must be done in a strict sequence of steps:

Before you make a hole in the garage, you need to mark the area. After the pit is dug, its bottom can be covered with a raised floor or convenient stands can be built. If the ground is unstable, then it must be strengthened with boards and struts. Remember that loosened earth is 25-30% larger in volume than the dimensions of the pit. It should not be taken out immediately, since part of the soil will be needed to compact the space between the pit wall and the brickwork (concrete, metal sheet, boards). The other part of the land will be required to level the floor throughout the garage.
At the stage of formation of the pit, it is necessary to take care of equipping niches in the walls. They are comfortable to hold lighting, tools, materials. Niches are recommended to be placed at the height of the elbows. You don't have to bend down for the tool.
When the pit is dug, it is necessary to level and compress its bottom. For this, a rammer is used, which can be built using self-tapping screws, thick (with a diameter of 100 to 150 mm) and thin timber (for the handle). To do this, attach a thin one to the end of one side of a thick beam. The design will resemble the letter "T", where the shock part will be at its base. Pour medium-sized gravel onto the prepared surface, compress.
Then you need to prepare the concrete mixture for pouring the floor. To make the base more durable, it must be reinforced with a metal mesh or rods. The dimensions of the cells in the metal frame should not exceed 15 cm. The grate should not be allowed to touch the bottom of the pit.
Pour concrete, completely covering the metal frame. It will take from 7 to 21 days for the mixture to solidify. It depends on the air temperature.
When the concrete has completely hardened, you can begin to build walls in the viewing hole.

Features of the installation of partitions depends on the material used.

Observation pit made of concrete

Before pouring the mixture, it is necessary to make a formwork. For this it is best to use OSB boards. This material does not pass the poured mixture and does not deform over time. The plates are fastened together with the help of boards and self-tapping screws so that the distance between them is at least 15 cm.

To keep the shape wooden structure it must be secured with struts. Gaps in the joints of the plates should be absent or minimal. A reinforcing mesh should be installed inside the finished formwork.

There is an option for pouring concrete with one-sided formwork. To do this, it is necessary to cover the walls of the pit with waterproofing material. Further along the inner perimeter of the pit, OSB plates are installed. A metal mesh is placed between them and the waterproofing. Concrete is poured inside this structure.

Observation pit made of bricks

A waterproofing sheet is laid in the finished pit. It should completely cover the floor and walls. The canvas must be laid with an overlap. So that the edges of the material do not bulge, they are pressed with boards. On top of the waterproofing, masonry is made “in half a brick”. When the wall reaches a height of 135 cm, you can make niches, and then continue laying to the top edge of the pit. It is recommended to install a metal frame from the corner on the last row, and it should be welded in such a way that one shelf of each side is parallel to the floor. Thick boards covering the pit will be laid on it. Next, they pour the concrete floor in the garage.

Inspection pit made of metal sheets (caisson)

This design resembles a large box. In its manufacture, the sheets must be connected by continuous welding. Finished construction must be carefully treated with anti-corrosion coatings. The box should be equipped with fasteners. They are welded metal corners that rest on the ground by 100-150 cm. They are attached to the body from four sides. They will hold the box in place. If this is not done, the entire structure will simply float when the groundwater level rises.

Observation pit made of wooden planks

Wood without proper treatment quickly rots. Therefore, the material must be impregnated with special antifungal agents and additionally waterproofed. Boards for walls are better to take thick. The material is installed horizontally. Spacers are fixed along the edges of the narrow sides of the inspection hole.

Waterproofing device

This process is carried out both before the construction of the structure (external insulation), as well as after its construction (internal insulation).

If the garage is located on a site with a low level of groundwater, then many owners are in no hurry to isolate the inspection hole from moisture. However, the hydrological situation of any area changes every year, so it is recommended to take care of insulation even at the construction stage. For this, special films or membranes are used, for example, butyl rubber, aquaizol. They must be laid in a pit. The edges of the material should be laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm. To obtain a sealed seam at the overlap, use double-sided tape.

When installing a film or membrane, it is important not to damage their integrity. Otherwise, moisture from the soil will get into the pit.

The laid waterproofing layer is melted with a blowtorch. As a result of this, the film straightens, adhering more closely to the walls and the bottom of the inspection hole.

Do-it-yourself internal waterproofing of a viewing hole in a garage involves treating the surface of a finished viewing structure with liquid substances, which, when dried, form a dense water-repellent layer. The composition for the treatment of pools has proven itself well. It is applied with a dense wide brush, and when solidified, the substance forms a waterproof material resembling rubber. For greater reliability, more than two layers should be applied.

The insulating material can be applied with a spray gun

There is another way of internal isolation from moisture - this is the use of special primers based on cements, which tend to be deeply absorbed into the applied material. This effect is achieved due to the polymer particles that are in the mixture. They block the capillaries that allow moisture to penetrate through the base material.

How to close the finished viewing hole

A covered inspection pit will not only protect the car from accidental failure, but also serve as an additional waterproofing layer. In the absence of a cover, evaporated moisture settles on the lower parts of the car body, thereby creating favorable conditions for the formation of metal corrosion. To avoid such problems, the viewing hole is covered. To do this, use sheets of metal or boards.

Wood is a relatively inexpensive and lightweight material. If necessary, the boards are easy to replace. They are selected from hardwoods, such as oak and larch. Before use, the boards are coated with antifungal impregnations and antiseptic substances. They are laid in the openings of metal corners fixed at the top of the viewing hole. The thickness of each board must be more than 40 mm.

The use of metal is less convenient, since this material is heavy, expensive and resistant to corrosion. During operation, its surface bends.

Video: do-it-yourself viewing hole in the garage

Step-by-step guide to building a vegetable pit with insulation

The construction of a vegetable pit has its own characteristics.

Drawing

For a vegetable pit, both the presence of waterproofing and depth are important.

The place for storing vegetables must be below the freezing point. Otherwise, the meaning of food storage is lost, as they will be spoiled by low temperatures.

The freezing point depends on the region where the garage is located, for example, inin the northern regions the ground freezes up to 150 cm. Given this fact, it is necessary to dig a pit with a depth of at least 190 cm. From 10 to 15 cm must be allocated for the drainage layer under the base, about 10 cm more is required to install the ceiling. 170–175 cm remains for placing shelves, racks and niches for vegetables and lighting. Depth also depends on the height of the host.

Option with optimal dimensions for this structure

The optimal width of the pit for vegetables is 150 cm. This size allows you to optimally place shelves and racks, while the person will not be constrained in movements inside the pit. To select the length, you need to follow the rule - the pit should not reach the walls of the garage closer than 50 cm.

Necessary materials and tools

To make a vegetable pit in the garage, you will need the following materials:

waterproofing sheet;
reinforcing bars;
sand;
gravel;
formwork boards;
metal corners;
wire;
bricks, metal sheets, boards or concrete M 250.

During the construction of this structure, you can not do without such tools:

bayonet and shovel;
concrete mixers;
containers for concrete mix and water;
blowtorch;
double-sided tape;
screwdriver.

Calculations of materials for the construction of a vegetable pit are similar to a viewing pit.

Manufacturing instructions

Having prepared everything necessary tools and materials, you can start building a vegetable pit:

It is necessary to carry out the marking of the site for the pit. This is conveniently done with a stretched cord and pegs.
When the markup is ready, you can proceed to land works. When determining the dimensions of the future pit, the thickness of the walls and floor should be taken into account in accordance with the chosen material for construction.
The walls and floor must be covered with a layer of bitumen. This procedure is mandatory if the groundwater level is quite high. Bitumen will serve as an additional waterproofing layer.
Now it's time to build the foundation. To do this, you need to level the surface of the bottom of the pit, then pour sand, evenly distribute it. After that, compress this layer until a thickness of 10 cm is obtained. Place gravel on top of the sand cushion, which also needs to be compacted.
The concrete base must be reinforced with metal rods. This requires rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm. The intersections of the rods must be fastened with wire. The result should be a metal grate with cells no more than 15 cm. This frame must be installed at a distance of 5 cm from the bottom of the pit. For this it is convenient to use fragments of bricks.
Having installed the grid, you can start pouring concrete. It should be borne in mind that the mixture must completely cover the metal frame with a layer of at least 10 cm. Leave for 14 days to solidify.
After the specified period, waterproofing works are carried out. Then proceed to the construction of the walls of the structure. For greater masonry strength, it is necessary to lay reinforcing material (mesh or wire) under each row of bricks. Continue building the walls to the level of the garage floor.
Ventilation pipes contribute to the long storage of vegetables
Make a frame from a metal corner. The dimensions should match the top edge of the pit. Install this frame on top of the cellar. It will serve as the basis for the installation of ceiling boards. The top of the cellar can be left like this, but to create a more permanent structure, work with concrete will be required. Installed boards will serve as the basis for creating a concrete ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to carry out all the actions with a reinforcing lattice and pouring concrete. A place for a hatch should also be provided. Inside the pit, the top should be supported with logs. They will serve as temporary supports until the concrete mixture hardens. You also need to provide a hole in the ceiling of the pit for installing a ventilation pipe. For this, you can use any material. The most convenient option would be to use a plastic or asbestos-cement pipe.

Waterproofing device

The issue of isolating the inner surface of the cellar from moisture should be taken especially carefully. This is important, as the smallest hole in the waterproofing will become a source of dampness and cause spoilage of vegetables.

You can proceed to this stage only if the concrete is completely dry. You will need a waterproofing sheet or aquaizol. This material must cover the walls and floor of the vegetable pit. The canvas must be laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm. The joints are fixed with a blowtorch or double-sided tape. All actions with the lamp should be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the canvas, otherwise moisture will get inside the vegetable pit. The same materials cover the outer part of the ceiling of the pit.

How to insulate a cellar in a garage

Solving the issue of insulating the cellar in the garage is just as important as installing waterproofing. The insulation will help maintain a stable temperature inside the pit. For this you can use mineral wool or foam.

To install foam panels, plastic dowels "umbrellas" will be required. The installation process is as follows:

With the help of a drill or a puncher, five holes are drilled in the plate attached to the wall (in the corners and in the middle of the material).
Plastic dowels are hammered into them, into which self-tapping screws are twisted.
The joints of the plates are filled with mounting foam.

In the northern regions, where the air temperature drops below 25–30ºС, it is also necessary to insulate the ceiling of the vegetable pit. So that over time the foam does not crumble, you can cover it with any finishing material. This will create an additional thermal insulation effect.

Video: how to make a dry pit, cellar, basement in the garage of the desired width

Making a viewing or vegetable pit in the garage with your own hands is not difficult at all. It is enough to listen to the recommendations of experts and follow step by step instructions. If desired, these two rooms can be combined.

The need for an inspection hole in the garage is obvious, since in cases of oil changes, minor repairs to the bottom of the body, or a routine inspection, you have to allocate several hours to travel to a service station and pay for an expensive service.

The pit for technical inspection of the car can also be used as a cellar or vegetable store. For this, niches and shelves are constructed inside it.

The condition for the high-quality use of an inspection pit as a technical structure and a place for storing products is compliance with all construction standards and the availability of reliable waterproofing of the floor and walls.

Even such a simple design requires careful planning. An important point in this case is the determination of the quality of the soil and the level of groundwater. The most suitable basis for such structures is clay soil. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that it does not allow moisture to pass through, which means it can become a kind of waterproofing layer.

The ladder will provide a comfortable and safe descent

Step-by-step guide to making a viewing hole

Installation of a viewing hole can be carried out independently. There is nothing complicated about this if you follow.

How to determine size

To make a calculation of the area of \u200b\u200bthe future viewing hole, you need to take into account the thickness of the walls and base. For such calculations, it is necessary to remember the course of geometry and resort to a simple formula that determines the area - S \u003d ah, where a is the length, h is the width of the pit. The finished inspection pit will have dimensions of 75x185x300 cm. The thickness of the concrete walls and floor, as a rule, is about 10 cm. The calculations will be as follows: 0.85x3 \u003d 2.55 m² - this is the area of \u200b\u200bthe pit for the viewing hole.

The pit can be wider if the inspection hole is intended for large or trucks. The distance between the inner sides of the wheels of such vehicles is much larger (from 80 to 90 cm).

The observation pit is arranged in such a way that the walls narrow slightly to the floor. Schematically, in cross section, its design resembles an inverted trapezoid. This shape provides easy access to tools in niches and free movement.

The depth of the pit "with a margin" for installing the floor

For additional safety of the car and its owner, the inspection pit is equipped with metal limiters. Usually they are four pillars fixed at the corners of the niche. They rise 10-15 cm above it. Sometimes not four pillars are used for technical inspection, but two metal corners. They are fastened against each other along the edges of the length of the pit.

Materials and tools

Most often, concrete, wood, metal or brick are used for manufacturing.

When building a viewing hole, you can not do without the following tools:

shovel and bayonet shovel;
buckets for excavated earth and concrete mix;
trowels;
welding machine;
hacksaws.

The following materials are also required:

bricks;
cement, sand, gravel;
concrete M200 for the base;
boards with a section of 400x50 mm;
reinforcing bars;
metal corner 50 mm wide;
waterproofing material.

Instructions for making a viewing hole from bricks, boards, concrete and iron

All work must be done in a strict sequence of steps:

Features of the installation of partitions depends on the material used.

Observation pit made of concrete

Before pouring the mixture, it is necessary to make a formwork. For this, it is best to use OSB boards. This material does not pass the poured mixture and does not deform over time. The plates are fastened together with the help of boards and self-tapping screws so that the distance between them is at least 15 cm.

To hold the shape of a wooden structure, it must be fixed with spacers. Gaps in the joints of the plates should be absent or minimal. A reinforcing mesh should be installed inside the finished formwork.

There is an option for pouring concrete with one-sided formwork. To do this, it is necessary to cover the walls of the pit with waterproofing material. Further along the inner perimeter of the pit, OSB plates are installed. A metal mesh is placed between them and the waterproofing. Concrete is poured inside this structure.

After the concrete hardens, a monolithic structure is obtained.

Observation pit made of bricks

Inspection pit made of metal sheets (caisson)

This design resembles a large box. In its manufacture, the sheets must be connected by continuous welding. The finished structure must be carefully treated with anti-corrosion coatings. The box should be equipped with fasteners. They are welded metal corners that rest on the ground by 100-150 cm. They are attached to the body from four sides. They will hold the box in place. If this is not done, the entire structure will simply float when the groundwater level rises.

The ladder is made from the same material.

Observation pit made of wooden planks

For reliability, the bottom of the pit is made of concrete

Waterproofing device

This process is carried out both before the construction of the structure (external insulation), as well as after its construction (internal insulation).

When installing a film or membrane, it is important not to damage their integrity. Otherwise, moisture from the soil will get into the pit.

The laid waterproofing layer is melted with a blowtorch. As a result of this, the film straightens, adhering more closely to the walls and the bottom of the inspection hole.

The overlap of the material will not allow moisture to seep into the pit

The insulating material can be applied with a spray gun

How to close the finished viewing hole

The most suitable option for this purpose are boards

The use of metal is less convenient, since this material is heavy, expensive and resistant to corrosion. During operation, its surface bends.

Video: do-it-yourself viewing hole in the garage

Step-by-step guide to building a vegetable pit with insulation

The construction of a vegetable pit has its own characteristics.

Drawing

For a vegetable pit, both the presence of waterproofing and depth are important.

The place for storing vegetables must be below the freezing point. Otherwise, the meaning of food storage is lost, as they will be spoiled by low temperatures.

Option with optimal dimensions for this structure

Necessary materials and tools

To make a vegetable pit in the garage, you will need the following materials:

waterproofing sheet;
reinforcing bars;
sand;
gravel;
formwork boards;
metal corners;
wire;
bricks, metal sheets, boards or concrete M 250.

During the construction of this structure, you can not do without such tools:

bayonet and shovel;
concrete mixers;
containers for concrete mix and water;
blowtorch;
double-sided tape;
screwdriver.

Calculations of materials for the construction of a vegetable pit are similar to a viewing pit.

Manufacturing instructions

Having prepared all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin to build a vegetable pit:

Waterproofing device

Making a viewing or vegetable pit in the garage with your own hands is not difficult at all. It is enough to listen to the recommendations of experts and follow the step-by-step instructions. If desired, these two rooms can be combined.

Hi friends!
As always, climbing the Internet, I stumbled upon a very good topic, which may be of interest to many.
I really liked this pit., but the trouble is ... groundwater is very close, and it's scary to make such beauty,))) but if someone helps, I will be very happy)))
mainavi.ru/dom/stroitelst…motrovuyu-yamu-v-garazhe/
STROYPORTAL

The presence of a viewing hole in the garage provides the possibility of carrying out self repair own car. You can make it with minimal knowledge in the field of construction and the presence of detailed instructions. Using a step-by-step master class, it will not be difficult to accurately and efficiently prepare and independently build a pit, regardless of the size and layout of the garage.

🔹 Determining the optimal size and shape of the inspection pit

The finished inspection pit should be both safe and convenient to use. Therefore, before starting work, it is recommended to study the geological survey data on the state of the soil and the location of groundwater under the garage. This will determine the optimal depth of the pit. If a ground water are quite deep, the recommended height from the floor to the "ceiling" may be about 2 m or less (wearer's height + 20-30 cm). Please refer to the drawing for dimensions.

An inspection pit is made in the garage with your own hands after drawing up a project plan for the facility. Its width is determined according to the wheelbase of the car: it should be smaller, ensuring the safe arrival of the car. The length should be at least 1 meter longer than the length of the car: this will allow you to work comfortably in the pit.

Allows the device of a viewing hole the presence of small niches. They can be used to store parts, convenient location of tools. They should not be made too deep. The sizes of niches are recommended to be determined according to the available number of auto tools and spare parts.

🔹 Laying walls and niches in the viewing hole

After digging a foundation pit with predetermined dimensions, you should begin to strengthen the walls, protect them and then lay the bricks. The use of bricks is optimal due to the ease of working with it and ease of purchase. How to build a viewing hole in the garage from the most affordable building materials can be found in the following instructions:

1. First you need to make the floor of the inspection hole in the garage: level the bottom of the pit, lay roofing material (with a swim on the walls of about 0.5 m for each of them). Concreting is carried out with the M-200 brand, the floor thickness should be about 10 cm. The size of the length and width of the floor should include the sum of the thickness of the two walls, the length / width of the pit itself and an increase of 10 cm. After pouring, leave the concrete to harden for 4 days.

2. The withdrawal of walls begins with the laying of 4 rows and the subsequent waterproofing of the inspection pit from the outside with bituminous mastic. This will eliminate the destruction of the walls due to moisture from the ground cover adjacent to the brick. After laying out the walls, you need to fill in the remaining indent from the ground to the brick.

3. The final stage of work will be the installation of a metal frame around the entrance to the pit. It should protrude slightly above the floor level of the garage box.

Niche frames should also be made of a metal corner. This will prevent subsidence of bricks or their destruction.

🔹 Features of the ventilation device and the choice of stairs

High-quality ventilation in the inspection hole of the garage will prevent the appearance of mold and the gradual destruction of the walls. It can be made exclusively exhaust or supply and exhaust. In the first case, it is necessary when laying out last rows brick, install a pipe that will allow you to remove air from the pit through the garage box upwards (it will go to the garage ventilation pipe or go straight to the street). In the second case, an additional pipe is installed, which is diverted to the outside. Its end should be located at a distance of 15 cm from the floor.

You can make a comfortable ladder for a viewing hole from wood, metal corners. For a small block, a repositionable ladder will be much more convenient. On the attached photos you can also see examples of pits in which the steps were laid out of brick or concreted.

🔹 Summing up lighting

In the process of laying niches, it is necessary to bring a wire to 36V in an insulating rubber hose. This will allow you to connect the light in the pit and conveniently carry out car lighting during repairs. It is advisable, when performing these stages of work, to invite a qualified electrician who will help to correctly determine the optimal location of the wire and guarantee its protection, and will correctly connect it to the power supply.

A diagnostic pit is always a welcome attribute of a garage. It allows you to comfortably inspect the bottom of the car. A handy motorist with her help will independently replace the oil or a torn cuff. It is from her that the arrangement of the garage should begin. Having spent a certain amount, a pit can be built using hired labor. The article tells how to do this work with your own hands.

What to build a viewing hole from

The inspection pit in the garage is usually built of brick or monolithic reinforced concrete. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. Brickwork is less labor-intensive, but not as durable and requires additional grouting of external masonry joints before applying waterproofing.

Reinforced concrete walls are stronger and more durable. The disadvantages include the increased complexity of manufacturing. To pour the concrete solution, it is necessary to construct a formwork, inside which reinforcement is knitted. A large amount of solution is required. With your own hands it is possible to make both brick and concrete walls.

Dimensions and position of the inspection hole

It is more rational to tear off the inspection trench at the same time as laying the foundation of the garage. The width of the ditch is usually 70–80 cm. If you take it less than 70 cm, the trench will be tight, wider than 80 cm - there is more risk of falling into a hole, which often happens. Well, if there are a few strong guys nearby. The trench is about 180 cm high, so that there is about 15 cm of clearance from the head to the bottom of the car. The length must be at least two meters, and better - along the length of the car plus 1 meter.

The position of the ditch can be different: in the center of the gate or with an offset. In this case, the machine stands away from the underground with its damp air. To inspect or perform any work, you will have to maneuver to drive into the ditch. For a more convenient entrance, the inspection pit in the garage can have an L-shaped configuration. You can go up and down the stairs without rolling the car.

Going down the ladder into the pit is inconvenient and dangerous. The ladder should be stationary, at the same time - comfortable and safe. The best option is to make steps simultaneously with the construction of the building envelope. With brick walls and steps, it is advisable to make bricks. When pouring walls made of monolithic reinforced concrete, steps should be cast at the same time. If for some reason they were not made at this stage, then the ladder can be made later with your own hands, when the inspection ditch is being arranged. The ladder is made of wood - with fastening steps on bowstrings or stringers, as well as metal - with corrugated iron treads.

How to make a pit light

Carrying out the arrangement of the garage box, lighting of the viewing hole in the garage should be provided. According to the rules for lighting in repair pits, the use of 220 V incandescent lamps is prohibited. It is allowed to use light sources with lamps of no more than 36 V. A step-down transformer is used to power them. A good option are fluorescent lamps in a sealed housing. If a 24V carrier is used, the safety cable must be at least four meters long.

Underground ventilation

In the repair trench, due to the temperature difference, increased humidity occurs and condensation forms with precipitation on the bottom of the vehicle. To avoid this unpleasant phenomenon, the inspection hole in the garage must have good ventilation. The exhaust channel is made from an asbestos-cement or plastic sewer pipe embedded in the crushed stone floor preparation. This pipe must be connected with a transition elbow to a vertical exhaust riser. Hoods from under the ceiling of the garage box and trenches must be independent. If you combine them into one, the ventilation efficiency of the technical underground will drop sharply.

The contours of the pit

Before marking out a place in the garage for a future trench, it is necessary to draw its cross section. The clear dimension of the trench should be taken as a basis. For example, the width will be 70 cm. Double the wall thickness must be added to this value. If the latter is 20 cm, it will turn out: 70 + (2 × 20) \u003d 110 cm. Add another margin - 5 cm on each side. Ultimately, the width of the trench at the bottom will be: 110 + (2 × 5) = 120 cm. In order to facilitate the subsequent application of coating waterproofing, the walls of the trench should be made inclined. To do this, it is enough to increase the width of the trench on the garage floor by 60 cm (30 cm per side). That is, at the top, the width of the ditch will be 180 cm. By the same principle, they dig trenches for the foundation.

Bucket or shovel

If the inspection hole in the garage is made simultaneously with the pouring of the foundation, it makes sense to resort to the services of an excavator. All work will be completed in half a day. The costs will be the same order as if you hire diggers. Sometimes it happens that in the season you still can’t find them. Well, if the idea came to arrange a technical trench when the garage has already been built? There is only one way out - to dig a pit with your own hands. In order not to do unnecessary work, some excavated soil should be stored near the construction site, since the earth will be needed to backfill the sinuses.

The base of the trench from penetrating moisture should be protected by waterproofing. On the compacted bottom of the pit, a 10-centimeter footing is preliminarily poured. For preparation, a solution of grade M 150 is sufficient. In width, the preparatory layer is flush with the outer surface of the future walls of the trench. Any type of rolled insulating material is used to isolate the sole - roofing felt, Bikrost, Aquaizol, polymer membranes. Cloths should be cut with an overlap on the walls.

A concrete floor is poured over the insulating layer. The brand is taken stronger - M 200. A thickness of 7–8 cm is enough, but it is better to reinforce the surface to be poured with a 150 × 150 road mesh with a wire thickness of 4 (3) mm.

Wall construction rules

To paraphrase Henry Ford, we can say - the design of the walls of the trench can be any, provided that it is rigid and durable. So that in the near future the walls do not bulge and crack, you should know how they should not be done:

lay brick walls in one spoon (120 mm thick);
make brickwork without reinforcement;
use silicate products for masonry;
pour the concrete mixture directly into the ground (from the outside of the ditch);
pour concrete without reinforcement;
use concrete.

Combined wall

One of the options structures of the enclosing structure with their own hands. The outer walls of the pit are dug out inclined, with a margin in width, in order to provide further access for waterproofing work. Lay out 4-5 rows of brickwork in half a brick along the entire internal contour of the future structure. This partition will serve as an internal formwork. The outer one is installed, retreating 130 mm from the folded wall immediately to the entire height of the trench, using old boards, plywood sheets, chipboard, OSB and other similar materials. They support it with spacers and jibs, after which a concrete solution is poured with the upper edge of the masonry.

A reinforcing masonry mesh 250 mm wide with a cell of 50 × 50 and a wire thickness of 4 or 5 mm is laid. Lay out the next section and install the reinforcement again. For better adhesion to concrete, the outer surface of the brickwork is made “into the wasteland”. The rigidity of the structure will be given by closed belts of reinforcement bars with a diameter of 10 mm, laid at the bottom and top of the fence. In order to subsequently equip the lighting of the viewing hole in the garage, niches are provided for installing lamps. Waterproofing, if provided for by the project, is carried out after the removal of the outer formwork.

Survey ditch and groundwater

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to make a survey ditch in the garage. When groundwater (GW) is located under the garage at a depth of less than two meters, it is not worth starting construction. Life shows that in this case no waterproofing of the walls will help. When the GW are below 2.5 meters, a trench can be built, provided that high-quality waterproofing of the external walls of the inspection ditch is performed. It can be done with your own hands from several layers of pasting material: roofing felt, TechnoNIKOL, Stekloizol, Hydrostekloizol and others. Glue the surfaces with molten bitumen. There are penetrating materials: Hydrotex, Aquatron-6, Penetron. They are convenient in that they are applied to wet concrete and reduce waiting times. A good clay castle is greasy crumpled clay.

global warming

So that the inspection hole in the garage is not covered with frost in winter, it can be insulated. To do this, the outer walls, on which waterproofing is applied, must be pasted over with insulation boards - polystyrene foam 5 cm thick. If such insulation is laid in 2 layers under the blind area around the perimeter of the entire garage, the floor in the garage and the trench will be even warmer.

Trench at full speed

In order not to accidentally fall into the pit, you need to make a fencing deck over it. The simplest design is thick transverse boards laid inside the edging of the corners, installed using embedded elements or secured with anchor bolts. For this purpose, woodworking waste is well suited - slabs laid with a bulge down. The inspection hole in the garage, closed by them, when viewed from below, resembles a front-line dugout.

Finally

The construction of an observation trench resembles the pouring of a foundation and goes through the same steps:

markup;
excavation;
sole manufacturing;
walling;
waterproofing;
warming.

Having completed the construction of a trench made of reinforced concrete or brick, it is arranged. From the inside, the pit can be plastered or tiled. Such an "underground", built with your own hands, will allow you to drive a car with complete confidence in its technical condition. After all, by connecting the lighting of the viewing hole in the garage, you can regularly assess the condition of the chassis of your car.

In contact with

Classmates

To what motorist knows how sometimes you need inspection hole in the garage! It happens, a nonsense breakdown, fix it once to spit, but try, get there! Or change the oil - five minutes of work, but you have to drag yourself to the service station and pay an amount that is completely incommensurable with the work!

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It might be worth shedding a little sweat, working a few days off and getting rid of such difficulties forever! You will learn how to make a viewing hole here.

We start work. Pit marking

As for everyone, even the most simple structures, we begin the construction of our pit with markings, that is, with determining the shape and size of the future pit. This is necessary, especially since we will be digging a hole in an already built, or even existing one. Which, you see, complicates our task, if only because of the cramped working conditions.

We will mark the excavation based on the fact that the soil forming the walls of the excavation will have a certain slope, while the dimensions of the inspection hole must be kept within the limits that make the work convenient.

This is on the one hand. On the other hand, when parking, the driver should not be covered in cold sweat for fear that the car will fail. For insurance against slipping, we will take certain steps, but more on that later.

Based on all the above requirements, we will determine the width of the pit “clean” (that is, the width of the working space) at 70 cm. This is enough for convenient work, and even for the Daewoo Matiz crumb (track 128 cm), there will be room for maneuver of the order 20 centimeters (between the pit and the wheel). And for the Zhiguli, with their track of 132 cm, the width can be made even larger. Five to ten centimeters, but that's not bad either.

We determine the length based on personal concepts of the convenience of work, as well as the size of the garage, but making it less than two meters is hardly justified.

On the floor of the garage we draw (or mark with pegs) a rectangle of our pit, then we add the thickness of the walls on all four sides and, guided by the qualities of soil stability, we give an approximate margin for the slope of the earthen walls. For dense loams, this value is approximately 20-30 cm.

Depth, we determine from the requirements of ergonomics, and in relation to our beloved one. It is clear that by bending over or standing on tiptoe, you will not gain much. Therefore, we calculate our pit in such a way that there would be a distance of 25-30 cm from the top of the head to the bottom of the car.

With a clearance of about 16 cm (Zhiguli) and a working height of 180 cm, the depth (again, “clean”) will be about 1.70 -1.80 m. It’s better to dig a little than not to dig, if necessary, under your feet you can always substitute a bench, or make a raised floor at the right height. All this is clearly shown in Fig. one.

Do-it-yourself earthwork for a viewing hole

Now we have to imagine ourselves as a mole for a while. After all, it will be necessary to take out about 9 cubic meters of earth, a lot, especially if you dig by hand, and the soil is solid. But let's console ourselves with the fact that this is the most time-consuming part of the work (in extreme cases, excavators can be hired).

Part of the soil must be left, stored next to the garage, or inside it. This land will be useful for backfilling the sinuses, after the walls of our structure are completed. We export the rest of the land. When calculating the equipment necessary for the removal, it must be taken into account that the volume of loosened earth will be approximately 20-25% larger than the volume of the pit.

We level the earthen floor of the pit, and then compact it with crushed stone. To do this, we pour crushed stone in an even layer, with a thickness equal to one and a half times the size of the largest pieces. After that, we “drive” crushed stone into the ground with a rammer.

An inspection pit in the garage will be much more convenient for work if niches are placed in the walls where you can put tools, spare parts, etc. Places for niches must be provided in advance, at the stage of earthworks.

How to make walls and floors of a viewing hole with your own hands

For walls, the most common and proven options are two: block masonry (brick) and in-situ concrete. Both solutions have their advantages and disadvantages. We recommend and will continue to consider monolithic concrete. At the cost of materials (especially if you prepare concrete yourself) it will be cheaper. When installing embedded parts, you can perform their high-quality, durable fastening. And the building as a whole will be more reliable.

We start with the fact that we make a concrete floor on the soil compacted with crushed stone. Six to seven centimeters of thickness will be more than enough for him. We reinforce the floor with a wire mesh with a cell of no more than 150x150 mm and a reinforcement thickness of 4-5 mm.

We will prepare concrete based on the following proportions per 1 cubic meter of concrete: 300 kg (0.28 m 3) of PC cement, grade 400; 680 kg (0.47 m 3) of sand, 1210 kg (0.9 m 3) of crushed stone of a fraction of 5-20 mm and 210 liters of water. When kneading by hand, more water will have to be added to make the mixture more mobile, but when using a concrete mixer, it is better to keep proportions close to those indicated. If you add water noticeably more than the norm, we will also increase the amount of cement by ten to fifteen kilograms.

The concrete obtained in this way will have a compressive strength grade of 200, which is more than enough for us.

We will make the walls 15 centimeters thick, this is quite enough for our pit. The composition of concrete is slightly different than for the floor: cement 360 kg (0.33 m 3), sand 670 kg (0.46 m 3), crushed stone 1168 kg (0.86 m 3), water is still the same 210 liters.

We will concrete the walls in layers, in tiers thirty to forty centimeters high, compacting with a bayonet, for which a narrow shovel is well suited. It is impossible to compress a thicker array manually with high quality, unless you can get a deep vibrator somewhere (say, rent it). But in this case, you should not make a tier more than 50 cm.

As a formwork, we use OSB sheets with a thickness of 10-12 mm. Subsequently, the OSB will come in handy for various garage needs: to make shelves or racks, door trim for insulation, etc.

When constructing the walls of a viewing hole, reinforcement is sometimes neglected, but it is better not to be stingy and still perform this operation. As reinforcement, you can use the same mesh as for the floor. Install it at a distance of 3 cm or a little less from the inner plane of the wall. Installed immediately to the entire height of the pit, the mesh will interfere great, therefore, we will mount it in strips, in the course of concreting.

, we immediately perform the installation of wall niches. We reinforce the “ceiling” of the niches along the entire length with two or three reinforcing bars (A-III reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm will be enough), so that they do not move, we fasten them together with wire.

In the last tier, it would be useful to provide inclined cylindrical “glasses”, where we will subsequently install lamps. The device of such glasses can be provided by obliquely inserting a plastic sewer pipe cut at an angle into the formwork (see Fig. 2).

We frame the perimeter of the pit with an embedded part welded from corners with a shelf width of 60-70 mm. The “whiskers” (anchors) of the embedded part are made from reinforcement identical to the one that we used when reinforcing niches. We take the length of the anchor equal to 50 cm. If, when installing the part, the anchor does not enter the height of the tier, you can bend it as needed.

The framing performs several tasks: it strengthens the corner of the wall, serves as a “clip” for laying the floorboard flooring, and finally, as already mentioned, plays the role of a safety curb that prevents the car wheel from slipping into the pit (see Fig. 2).

So that our concrete does not collapse when moving the formwork, you need to let it grab, for two - three days. After the device of the last tier, before the start of backfilling, let it stand for at least a week.

We backfill with loam, in layers of 15-20 cm, carefully tamping each layer. Ideally, backfilling can be done with the so-called "incompressible" soil (crushed stone, gravel). However, it is expensive, and besides, it is not particularly necessary for a passenger car.

You can go for a trick. After we do it, do not immediately concrete the floor, but sprinkle it with crushed stone to the desired height (if the floor has already been completed in the garage). In a couple of weeks, driving in and out of the garage, you will compact the soil in the sinuses with your wheels, after which you can safely concrete the floor, it is guaranteed that it will not sag.

Additional work on the construction of a viewing hole in the garage

Making a viewing hole is not enough, you also need to “equip” it. To do this, we install lamps, and, we make the overlap of the pit (flooring).

For flooring, we use wide board "forty" (40 mm thick). Boards can be knocked down into several shields, but you should not make them too large and heavy.

If a voltage of 220V is used, the wires must be hidden in a corrugated sleeve (preferably steel). Sockets and switches are semi-hermetic, waterproof.

Do-it-yourself waterproofing of a viewing hole

If the groundwater level is high in your area, and there is a danger that the inspection hole will be flooded, high-quality waterproofing is necessary.

We will perform a comprehensive waterproofing and, as the first "line of defense", we will use a barrier made of rolled materials.

We lay a layer of waterproofing film (aquaizol, butyl rubber, etc.) under the floor concrete in such a way that the edges of the panel go onto the walls no less than 15-20 cm around the entire perimeter. When concreting the walls, we sequentially lay layers of insulation. We carry out laying with an overlap, not less than 15 cm.

If there is a danger of flooding, we make it with oily clay, ramming it in layers of 15-20 cm.

The final measure of protection will be the addition of water-repellent additives to concrete during its preparation.

In custody

A few words about "labor protection", more precisely, the protection of your health, from this very work.

Performing earthworks in unstable soils, be sure to arrange the fastening of the walls of the pit, (to ensure their slope along the line of repose, the task is obviously more time-consuming). The fact that the soils are unstable and prone to collapse will be seen already at the beginning of the earthworks.

Fastening is carried out by laying boards on the walls and fixing them with spacers. This is desirable to do when the depth of the pit reaches a meter or a little more.

However, if the ground is unstable, then it is likely that without strengthening the walls, further work will become extremely difficult, or even stop altogether.

doing work, do not neglect the means personal protection (tarpaulin mittens, sturdy work boots). Working as a perforator, jackhammer, grinder don't be afraid to wear safety goggles otherwise, a viewing hole in the garage can be expensive.

And finally work with a partner. Even if your partner has red pigtails and is twelve years old! The tool will give or bring water. You don’t need a lot of strength for this and you will get used to work! And if something goes wrong, he can call for help.

Experience in the construction of a viewing hole (video)

Ask questions either. , photos, we will publish them on the site. Order work from specialists! Support the project! Good luck to you, Good to your House!

Carrying out maintenance or minor repairs to the car, many try to do it themselves. In order not to lie under the car on your back, you need a viewing hole in the garage.

Dimensions of the inspection hole in the garage

This is far from dogma. Everyone does as he sees fit. Some deep holes seem uncomfortable and they make them almost exactly in height, and sometimes even lower - 1.5 meters. If you take into account the clearance of the car, from the floor of the pit to the bottom of the car you get about 1.7-1.8 meters. You can do that too.

Another point in length. Sometimes a long hole cannot be made. Then it is made about half the length of the car, driving it in front or behind, depending on which part of the car needs to be inspected or repaired.

Now about where to place the pit in the garage. Usually it is slightly shifted to one of the walls, leaving a wide side for installing equipment, storing spare parts, etc. At the same time, there should be at least 1 meter from the edge of the pit to the nearest wall.

That's all there is to it. Just note that we were talking about the final dimensions of the pit. When marking the pit, you will need to add thickness to the walls, and dig deeper to the height of the floor screed (if you do it).

What materials are they made from

The inspection pit in the garage (its walls) is laid out with bricks, heavy building blocks, made of monolithic concrete. If we talk about bricks, then it is better to use ceramic bricks: it is not afraid of moisture. The walls are made in half a brick or brick. The wall thickness, depending on the masonry method, is 12 cm or 25 cm. This must be taken into account when marking the pit.

Brick can be used on dry, dense soils. The groundwater level should be low. If the water is high, it is better to make the walls of the pit from reinforced concrete.

Building blocks also need to choose those that are not afraid of high humidity. These are concrete blocks. The rest, if used, then with mandatory external waterproofing, and this is not a guarantee that they will not crumble, especially if groundwater is located close.

With a concrete inspection pit, everything is simpler: concrete is not afraid of moisture, it only becomes stronger from it. Concrete grade M 250 is used to fill the walls, M 200 is enough for the floor. Why is that? Because during winter heaving, the main load falls on the walls. So that they do not “fold”, a margin of safety is required, which is achieved by reinforcing and using high-strength concrete. By the way, in order to avoid heaving of the soil under the garage, it is necessary to make a good blind area so that the water leaves and does not soak into the soil.

The wall thickness when filling the inspection pit with concrete is from 15 cm. The stacks must be reinforced. To do this, use a finished mesh with a wire thickness of 5-6 mm and a pitch of 150 mm (if the groundwater is deep) or knit a frame of reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The reinforcement installation step is 20 cm. For greater strength, you can make a single rod to the bottom and walls, bending it accordingly.

Waterproofing methods

The inspection pit in the garage can be protected from moisture penetration in two ways: with the help of external waterproofing, which is carried out exclusively during the construction process, and internal, which can also be done during operation.

Outdoor protection

If the groundwater at the construction site of the garage is deep, lower than 2.5 meters and does not rise higher even in spring or after heavy rains, you can do without waterproofing. On the other hand, the hydrological situation is constantly changing, and where it used to be dry, water may appear. If a viewing hole in the garage has already been built, you cannot do external waterproofing. It remains only to use deep penetration impregnations to reduce the hygroscopicity of the walls. Therefore, if possible, make external insulation anyway.

How to prevent moisture from entering the inspection hole in the garage? Most often, waterproofing films or membranes are used (butyl rubber, aquaizol, etc.). They are laid in panels, covering the pit from one edge to the other, releasing 10-15 cm on each side of the pit onto the garage floor. The sheets are overlapped. They must overlap by at least 15 cm. To get a more airtight joint, they are glued with double-sided tape, it is possible in two strips - at the beginning and end of the "overlap". The film is well straightened so that it fits snugly against the walls of the pit. During further work, it is important not to damage the membrane.

Internal waterproofing

Internal waterproofing is usually the impregnation of walls with coated waterproofing. If possible - composition for pools. It creates a waterproof dense film, very reminiscent of rubber. It has a blue color and after hardening it washes well. It is better to process the walls with this composition twice, or more.

Another option is a cement-based deep penetration primer. The polymer particles contained in it block the capillaries through which moisture penetrates through the thickness of the material. One such treatment significantly reduces the hygroscopicity of the material. In the case of water in the garage pit, at least two treatments are necessary (and even more is better).

Caisson device

There is another option to escape from the ground - to make a metal caisson. Brewed from sheet metal a box of appropriate sizes, treated with anti-corrosion compounds, then installed in a pit. If the welds are sealed, there will be no water, but another problem may arise. With a large amount of water, the caisson can squeeze out. It is said to "float".

To avoid such a situation, corners and rods are welded to the sides of the caisson from the outside, which go 1-1.5 meters into the ground. So that at the same time the volume of earthworks is not very large (the pit, taking into account these spacers, turns out to be large), you can cheat. Before installing the caisson, drive corners or metal rods into the ground, releasing their ends outward. You can weld them to the body of the caisson after installation. The pit will still have to be made larger (it is necessary to cook from the outside), but its dimensions will still be smaller. The second plus of this method is that the rods will be driven into dense soil, which means that they will better hold the caisson.

Another way to exclude the “emergence” of the caisson is to make a hole in the wall at a certain height. If the water rises to its level, it will begin to pour inward. Water can subsequently be pumped out, the main thing is that everything remains in place. The inspection pit in the garage, arranged according to this principle, stood for more than 20 years - until the metal rusted.

Pit for collecting water

If the pit has already been built, and coating waterproofing or impregnation did not give the desired result, it is necessary either to arrange a drainage system around the garage, or to collect water in one place. To do this, a pit is made in the garage inspection hole, at one of its ends. Water accumulates in it, from where it is pumped out by a pump. In order for the system to work in automatic mode, a water presence sensor is installed, which, when triggered, turns on the pump.

Formwork is made under the pit, poured with concrete. Then they make the waterproofing of the pit along with the waterproofing of the entire pit. For reliability, you can also put a metal caisson inside.

Since in this case it is impossible to completely get rid of dampness, a boardwalk is knocked down on the floor of the pit. In order for the boards to rot, they can be impregnated with mining. If you do not like its smell, take a special impregnation for wood that has direct contact with the ground (Senezh Ultra, for example).

Insulation of a viewing hole in the garage

If you spend a lot of time in the garage, then you will most likely have heating. To warm up faster and faster, it makes sense to insulate the pit. EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) is best suited for these purposes. It withstands significant loads, is not afraid of dampness, does not rot, fungi and bacteria do not multiply on it.

EPS thickness to create a tangible effect - from 50 mm. Lay it between the soil and the wall of the pit. Then from the outside-inside the pit will look like this:

Expanded polystyrene can also be laid under the screed at the bottom of the inspection hole. A reinforcing mesh is usually laid on top of it, and then concrete is poured.

How to make a viewing hole in the garage

After you have decided on the dimensions and what material the walls will be made of, what thickness they will be, you can start marking the pit. This can be done using pegs driven in around the perimeter. The second option is to pull the twine / rope between the stakes driven in at the corners. According to the markup, we begin to dig a pit. The earth is usually taken out and temporarily stored near the gate.

From brick: step by step photo report

Along with excavation, monitor soil moisture. If you have reached the design depth (required + floor screed thickness), but there is still no moisture, you can do without waterproofing. Those who do not want to take risks can be advised to immediately lay the film.

We level the walls. It is not necessary to achieve ideal geometry, but there should not be noticeable humps and pits. We also level the bottom of the pit, ramming, compacting the soil well. Usually a manual rammer is used. A layer of crushed stone is poured at the bottom (two times 5 cm), each layer is also carefully rammed. Next comes a layer of sand. It is enough 5 cm. The sand is moistened, rammed to a high density - so that the foot is not imprinted. Next, lay the waterproofing film.

We level it well, tucking it into corners. We lay the panels with an overlap of 15 cm, which we glue with double-sided tape. So that the edges do not roll, we press with improvised materials - boards, stones.

We lay a layer of insulation on the bottom, on it - a reinforcing wire mesh. We fill all this with concrete grade M 200. The layer thickness is at least 5 cm. To make it easier to navigate when laying, we make marks on the film by which you can control the layer thickness.

If you use Portland cement M 400, the proportions will be as follows - cement 1 part, sand - 3, crushed stone of medium and fine fraction - 5 parts.

An inspection pit is being built in the garage: the floor is filled with concrete

We are waiting for several days until the concrete gains 50% strength. Exact term temperature dependent. If it is around + 20 ° C, you will have to wait 5-6 days. If +17°C it's already two weeks.

Let's start laying out the walls. It was decided to do in half a brick. We used used bricks, about 850 pieces went (pit size 4.2 * 0.8 * 1.7 m). Up to the level of the elbow, the walls were laid out in a circle.

At the level of 1.2 meters from the floor, it was decided to make a niche for the instrument. Its height is 3 rows of bricks, the top is covered with a processed board.

In order not to have to lay out a brick niche, a metal insert is inserted. Welded box, suitable in size.

Further, the walls were driven out almost to the level with the garage floor. Part of the walls was replaced by two sections of channels. Jacks rest against the bottom if necessary. A metal corner with a shelf of 50 mm is laid on the top row, the thickness of the steel is 5 mm.

The corner is unfolded so that one of its shelves is hung down, the second covers part of the upper surface of the brick. So that the wall does not collapse under load, mortgages are welded to this corner, which are then connected to the concrete reinforcing belt.

Filling the floor in the garage - the level of concrete along the upper edge of the corner

Features of the manufacture of concrete walls

When casting concrete walls, it is necessary to make a formwork. It is easier to make it from sheet material - construction moisture resistant plywood thickness from 16 mm, OSB. They knock down shields of the required size, strengthen them with bars on the outside. They are necessary so that plywood or OSB does not bend under the pressure of concrete. First put the outer parts of the formwork. If the walls of the pit are even, there will be no problems. You just lean them on, put them straight.

Then the internal formwork panels are exposed. Between them there must be a distance of at least 15 cm. So that during the pouring process the walls are not deformed, spacers are placed between them.

Filling is desirable to carry out at a time. Filled portions must be bayoneted or processed with a submersible vibrator for concrete. Remove the formwork after two or three days. After that, you can install a corner with welded embedded rods (strips) and proceed with pouring the floor.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

The presence of a viewing hole in the garage provides the possibility of self-repair of your own car. You can make it with minimal knowledge in the field of construction and the presence of detailed instructions. Using step by step master class, it will not be difficult to accurately and efficiently prepare and independently build a pit, regardless of the size and layout of the garage.

Determination of the optimal dimensions and shape of the inspection pit

The finished inspection pit should be both safe and convenient to use. Therefore, before starting work, it is recommended to study the geological survey data on the state of the soil and the location of groundwater under the garage. This will determine the optimal depth of the pit. If the groundwater is quite deep, then the recommended height from the floor to the "ceiling" may be about 2 m or less (owner's height + 20-30 cm). Please refer to the drawing for dimensions.

Laying walls and niches in the viewing hole

2. The withdrawal of the walls begins with the laying of 4 rows and the subsequent waterproofing of the inspection pit from the outside using bituminous mastic. This will eliminate the destruction of the walls due to moisture from the ground cover adjacent to the brick. After laying out the walls, you need to fill in the remaining indent from the ground to the brick.

3. The final stage of work will be the installation of a metal frame around the entrance to the pit. It should protrude slightly above the floor level of the garage box.

Niche frames should also be made of a metal corner. This will prevent subsidence of bricks or their destruction.

Features of the ventilation device and the choice of stairs

High-quality ventilation in the inspection hole of the garage will prevent the appearance of mold and the gradual destruction of the walls. It can be made exclusively exhaust or supply and exhaust. In the first case, when laying out the last rows of bricks, it is necessary to install a pipe that will allow air to be removed from the pit through the garage box upwards (it will go to the garage ventilation pipe or be taken directly to the street). In the second case, an additional pipe is installed, which is diverted to the outside. Its end should be located at a distance of 15 cm from the floor.

Summing up lighting

Do-it-yourself video of building a viewing hole in the garage

Motorists "with experience", who are independently engaged in repairing their car, know how much it is necessary to have in own garage viewing hole. This simple recess in the floor allows you to inspect and, if necessary, repair the lower part of the car, the exhaust pipe, muffler, gearbox, engine and other hard-to-reach places. If there is a hole, you do not need to pay for a simple oil change procedure in a car service.
However, the existence of such a structure in the garage inevitably leads to the appearance high humidity. Therefore, if the size of the room allows, it is recommended to do it away from the place where the car usually stands. Otherwise, water vapor accumulating above the pit will condense on the bottom of the car and lead to its rapid corrosion.
Ideally, when they think about building a viewing hole before building a garage. But in an existing garage, you can equip it, although you will have to face a number of restrictions. Doing this work with your own hands is not so difficult, the main thing is to know how! When performing work, it is advisable to study building codes and strictly observe building technologies. Then the results of labor will delight the owner for many years and it will be possible to avoid sad consequences.

Step one: sizing

Work on arranging a viewing hole for a garage begins with its design and calculation of dimensions. It makes sense to fix the results of these works on paper in the form of a garage plan and a pit drawing. It is necessary to think carefully about where it will be located, how the car will enter the garage. The required dimensions of the inspection hole depend on the width and length of the car, the size of the garage, as well as the height of the owner. It is important to make the calculations correctly, otherwise the mistakes made will cost too much later.

The width of the pit is chosen so that it is 20 centimeters less than the distance between the wheels of the car, but sufficient so that the person inside has room to work. At the same time, you should not be rigidly guided by the size of a particular “iron horse”, because the owner may eventually buy another car for himself.
The standard width is 75–80 cm. If a pit is needed for a car and a truck at the same time, then the final width is averaged, despite the fact that passenger car it will be more difficult to drive;

Inspection hole dimensions
In the photo is a drawing of a viewing hole In the garage, a pit for inspecting a car is necessary
Section of the pit showing its device
The length of the structure is determined by the personal preferences of the owner and the size of the garage. Its minimum value is equal to the length of the car + 1 meter. It makes no sense to make a hole less than 2 m long. Consideration should also be given to space for steps or a ladder;
The depth of the pit should be such that the owner of the car, working in it, can freely reach any mechanism without bending down or standing on tiptoe. Although it is better to dig a hole a little deeper than necessary, than vice versa. Extra centimeters can be removed due to the thickness of the floor. The optimal depth is equal to the height of the owner + 15–20 cm.

The necessary allowances on each side should be added to the obtained dimensions for subsequent work on finishing, waterproofing and insulation. The dimensions of the allowances for brick walls are 12 cm, for concrete - 20 cm on each side. The allowance for the floor is 20 cm. If waterproofing or insulation of the pit is supposed, the allowances must be increased.

If the groundwater level is above 2.5 m, then the pit will be flooded

Be sure to find out how deep the groundwater is in the soil. This information is indicated in the research report before the construction of the garage. The level of groundwater in the area where the garage is located plays a very important role. If it is higher than 2.5 m, then it is impossible to make an inspection hole in an already built garage, because it will be flooded. In the garage under construction will have to do drainage system draining excess water into the sewer. If groundwater lies deeper, there are no contraindications to construction.

In the niches you can place the tools necessary for repair

It is convenient when small niches are made in the walls of the viewing hole. They usually have the necessary tools for car repair. Places for niches, their dimensions should be considered in advance and drawn on the plan. The depth of the niches is usually made 15–20 cm, the length and width are determined at the discretion of the owner.

Step Two: Planning and Executing Construction Phases

After work "on paper" comes the turn of work "on the ground". The stages of building a viewing hole are as follows:

Markup. On the place of the garage allocated for the pit, markings are applied with chalk or a marker, taking into account the calculated allowances, after which the existing floor is dismantled. It is not recommended to make a viewing hole close to the garage wall. The distance to the wall must be at least 1 m;
Pit preparation. Undoubtedly, this is the most difficult stage, but workers can be hired to complete it. You will have to take out about 8-9 cubic meters of earth. The duration of the process depends both on the capabilities of the worker and on the properties of the soil. Need to dig bayonet shovel, sometimes with a pick, starting from the far end of the future pit. Spacers from boards may be required so that the soil from the walls does not crumble.
Loose earth takes up 20–25% more space, so this must be taken into account when removing it.

Part of the earth must be left to fill the sinuses. Inside the excavated pit, the resulting walls and floor must be leveled with a manual rammer as carefully as possible. After the surfaces are ready, the bottom is covered with a 10 cm thick layer of gravel, well tamped. 5 cm of sand are poured on top, then rammed again. If the soil is wet, then 5 cm of clay is poured for waterproofing, covered with the same layer of gravel. The surface is covered with a plastic film, after which it is reinforced with a metal mesh;
Do-it-yourself walls and floor of the viewing hole. The bottom of the pit prepared in this way is poured with a layer of concrete mortar 7–8 cm thick, left to dry for several days. After the concrete has hardened, you can proceed to reinforcing the walls with a mesh. For pouring walls concrete mix formwork is required, which is usually made from OSB sheets. Then from them you can make shelves for tools. The formwork is installed in tiers of 30-40 cm, connecting the elements with spacers. At the same time, two layers are laid metal mesh. In addition, embedded parts are used that are firmly fixed in concrete. Particular attention should be paid to reinforcing places for niches.
The space between the formwork and the edges of the pit is filled with mortar. A metal corner is laid in the last layer of concrete, protruding 10 cm above the surface. Such a border is needed to see where the pit is when entering the garage. Subsequently, boards are laid on it, covering the viewing hole.

The formwork is removed 2 weeks after the walls are poured, after which the concrete is allowed to harden for another month. Only in this way can the strength of the walls be guaranteed. When the concrete hardens, they proceed to backfilling the soil, and then to interior decoration viewing hole. Backfilling of the sinuses is carried out with clay or loam, which well protect the pit from water penetration. Pour layer after layer of 15–20 cm, compact well. Instead of clay, you can use the original soil, but it must be especially carefully compacted. Recently used for finishing walls and floors. ceramic tiles. Another option is to plaster the walls with white gypsum plaster.

Step three: waterproofing and insulation

The pit preparation procedure described above is applicable when the garage is located in an area with fairly dry soil. If the soil is wet, then there is a risk of flooding and constant dampness inside the pit. In such a situation, additional measures for waterproofing the bottom of the structure are needed.

To do this, before pouring concrete, layers of special materials are laid on the floor to prevent the penetration of moisture. The edges of the piece of material should go 15–20 cm along the edges onto the walls.

Most commonly used:

Materials based on bitumen (durable, inexpensive, easy to install);
Polymer membranes (strong, durable, well compatible with other materials);
Penetrating waterproofing (high degree of protection against moisture, resistant to temperature fluctuations);
Liquid rubber (very high degree of protection, but the treated surface must not be damaged).

For additional protection against moisture, the concrete solution is prepared using special additives.

In order not to freeze when repairing a car in winter, it is better to insulate the inspection hole. So you can further save on electricity used to heat the garage. Insulation should be provided at the stage of determining the dimensions of the pit. Among modern heaters, expanded polystyrene is considered the best. It has the following properties:

Does not rot;
Does not burn;
Does not pass moisture;
Attaches well to concrete surfaces with glue;
It's cheap;
Safe for health.

Step four: additional arrangement

In order to work comfortably inside the inspection pit, you need to perform a number of additional works:

Adequate lighting is required to inspect the vehicle

Important details when arranging a viewing hole

When carrying out work on arranging a viewing hole for a garage, one must not forget about the measures of one's own safety:

When excavating in weak, unstable soils, starting from a depth of 1 m, install spacers and reinforcements from boards. The fact that the soil is crumbling is usually immediately visible;
Use protective equipment: gloves, mittens, sturdy boots, goggles, especially when working with a grinder or puncher;
Work with an assistant. It's much easier, faster and safer.

Such rules will help to cope with the work without harming your health.

Video

Watch a video about building a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands.