Making wooden scaffolding with your own hands. How and from what you can make scaffolding with your own hands. Scaffolding
If you decide to make scaffolding, then you will have to choose from two materials: wood or metal. In the first case, you will get a one-time design, which can be done by any person who knows how to work with wood, and in the second, it is reusable, but also quite easy to manufacture. In this article we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands from metal ( profile pipe), as well as from wood (boards), we will demonstrate diagrams, photo and video instructions.
Although metal or wood is mainly used for the manufacture of scaffolding, they may differ in the method of fastening, and, accordingly, have different functional elements in their design. So, consider the main types of forests.
The constituent elements are connected by a special wedge fixation. Scaffolds of this design are highly reliable. They are able to withstand fairly large loads. At the same time, they are easy to use, they are quickly assembled and disassembled. Especially important is the use of wedge scaffolding in the construction and lifting of heavy materials and components.
The main element of this design is a rigidly installed frame. They are mainly used for painting or plastering works. The frame in this design is connected with horizontal uprights and diagonal ties due to nodal connections. The main advantage of frame scaffolding is their low cost. Their construction does not require large investments.
In these forests, the connection node, as is obvious from their name, is a pin. This type of scaffolding is very popular with builders, as it is very easy to assemble and disassemble directly on the construction site. It often takes a day or two to assemble scaffolding. In this case, the assembly of pin scaffolding will not take much time.
If the object on which the repair work is being carried out has a complex configuration, then clamp scaffolding is an excellent solution. The fastening method used is professional. And for their manufacture, the height and size of the working area, the distance between the tiers and the pitch of the racks play an important role. All this is selected individually for each object.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with a simple guide to making scaffolding from planks. To do this, follow a few simple sequential steps:
- Lay out 4 racks or boards parallel to each other on a flat area. Their size should immediately correspond to the height of the scaffolding.
- You connect the racks with each other with horizontal jumpers, on which the flooring will be laid later.
- Place the 2 frames made horizontally opposite each other, tie them diagonally and horizontally with boards that will serve as ties.
- Lay the flooring from the boards on the horizontal screeds and attach it to the lintels with self-tapping screws.
- Attach the railing to the racks and fix the ladder.
If necessary, lengthen the structure of the scaffolding, connect several similar sections of boards to each other. The boards are stuffed on the support posts.
When assembling wooden scaffolding, if nails are used, it is recommended to pre-drill holes so that the boards do not split.
Design
All forests consist of the following elements:
- racks;
- diagonal and horizontal struts (they give spatial strength to the structure);
- jumpers for flooring;
- flooring from boards, on which a person will stand;
- stops (to create the stability of scaffolding and prevent them from falling away from the wall);
- enclosing element (so that a person, standing on the floor, does not fall down);
- ladder (ladder) for climbing to the desired level of scaffolding.
From wood and planks
There are a lot of tips on how to make scaffolding on the Internet. Moreover, the recommended designs differ mainly from each other only in the thickness of the board and the size of the scaffolds themselves. So that you do not get confused in all this "diversity", try to focus on the following values:
Let's get to work:
- Prepare the necessary materials in advance:
- boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of 100 mm (or round timber, or timber 10x10 cm) - for racks and stops;
- boards for spacers and fencing 30 mm thick;
- boards for lintels and flooring 50 mm thick;
- nails (self-tapping screws in this case are less reliable).
Photo instruction
We bring to your attention to view a series of photos on the topic of how to make your own wooden scaffolding:
From a profile pipe
Now about how to make scaffolding (collapsible) from metal (dimensions of one section: height - 1.5 meters, width 1 meter, length 1.65 meters). Determine the number of sections based on the height you need scaffolding.
- Prepare the necessary materials:
- for racks - a profile pipe (square section) 30x30 mm - length 1500 mm;
- for spacers - a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm;
- for connecting inserts (adapters) - profile pipe 25x25 mm;
- make the flooring from boards 40-50 mm thick and 210-220 cm long.
- for diagonal elements - 2 meters each;
- for horizontal elements connecting racks from the sides of the structure - 96 cm each.
"Pros and cons"
Firstly, scaffolding is not a small scaffolding-goat, but a rather bulky structure that will need to be stored somewhere after the need for it disappears.
Wooden scaffolding, of course, can be dismantled later, but the work is laborious, and the boards, if you don’t need them in the near future, also need to be folded somewhere. Keep in mind that wood scaffolding is assembled with nails, not self-tapping screws, so the boards will no longer be completely intact. In addition, when performing work on scaffolding, wood is often stained with mortar or paint.
Home-made metal scaffolding can not only be dismantled, but also rented out in the future.
Secondly, non-factory-made scaffolding is designed to work at a maximum level of the second floor (from the ground). At higher altitudes, the exploitation of makeshift scaffolding becomes dangerous.
Thirdly, scaffolding is required quite rarely (only to repair the facade of the building), so the assembly and disassembly of such a temporary structure is not profitable in terms of the time spent on this work.
Fourthly, scaffolding often has to be made long (for example, at least 6 meters for siding installation). Accordingly, their weight increases, and rearranging home-made wooden scaffolding to the other side of the house becomes a problem even for three or four people.
It is worth thinking about forests at the stage of designing a house.
If you do not plan to carry out facade work yourself (but are going to hire a construction team), then you don’t have to think much about scaffolding, since builders usually come to the site with their scaffolding and scaffolding.
However, at the end of construction (and after some time has passed), scaffolding may be needed to carry out small facade repair work. Can this be avoided?
Certainly. And to begin with, make sure that the facade of your house does not require repairs for many years. To do this, it is enough to use facing bricks when building walls. Now it is produced by many manufacturers and at the same time in a fairly large range of colors.
But others facing materials(such as siding, plaster, and others) will periodically require your attention and, accordingly, additional costs, since you will not be able to make scaffolding (buy or rent) for free.
Video
From this video you will learn how to make scaffolding for apartment renovation:
A photo
The photographs show various designs scaffolding:
Scheme
The diagrams will help you design your own scaffolding:
Scaffolding is a temporary engineering structure intended for access to the facility under construction, placement of building material, auxiliary equipment and tools. After completion of work at the facility, these structures must be dismantled.
Structurally, scaffolding is usually carried out in the form of multi-tiered buildings, consisting of levels built up in stages with connecting stairs and special fences. In addition, scaffolding can be used for major repair and finishing work in low-rise construction in conditions where the involvement of special high-rise equipment is impractical.
As an example, we can cite cases of using scaffolding when laying and plastering the walls of a small country house, which ensures that all safety requirements stipulated by the regulations are met.
Scaffolding used during construction activities may differ markedly in their design. And if you are wondering how to make scaffolding yourself, then you should first of all familiarize yourself with some of the most common designs today. Forests in the most general case are:
- pin;
- wedge;
- frame;
- collar.
The following can be said about the advantages and disadvantages of one or another type of forest.
Pin type scaffolding is characterized by a very high speed of assembly and disassembly. Wedge scaffolding guarantees builders the ability to "hold" large workloads. Frame type scaffolding is unique because of its low weight. Clamp scaffolding is not entirely practical and is used, as a rule, only when working on fairly complex objects and often have an individual character.
The practice of renting scaffolding from specialized companies with subsequent self-delivery and installation on site (included, by the way, in the cost of the order) is quite reasonable, since it significantly simplifies all procedures for the installation and dismantling of this building structure.
The wisdom of this way of organizing construction works This is also explained by the fact that the time savings from this event are very sensitive. And this, in a certain situation, can be crucial for the timely completion of ongoing work.
If you decide to build scaffolding with your own hands, then you need to know that the constructed on their own scaffolding must be manufactured in accordance with current regulations or the instructions of their manufacturers.
The fact is that the apparent simplicity of scaffolding design is outwardly very deceptive, and the slightest deviation from the normalized indicators can lead to a loss of their rigidity and stability. As an example, it can be noted that a small "under-rotation" of threaded connections or the presence of a slight backlash in the joint, as well as insufficiently tight fit of the surfaces at the points of contact, can to a certain extent affect the stability of the entire structure as a whole.
Despite the importance and responsibility of the working procedures for the construction of scaffolds, they are nevertheless not considered very complex structures. In case you decide to build your own Vacation home- the option of making scaffolding on your own is quite suitable for you. According to the current building regulations, the construction of scaffolding from timber and boards for your own construction is allowed if it has no more than two tiers (two meters high).
In this case, the sequence of operations for one of the known options for assembling scaffolding usually looks like this.
- For the manufacture of vertical racks, a construction beam 10x10cm is taken; moreover, to increase stability, these racks should converge slightly from above.
- Crossbars from a 4 cm board are attached to the racks, forming support platforms dispersed around the perimeter of the square, on which the flooring is subsequently laid.
- The flat "floors" of each of the tiers, as well as the crosses that increase the overall rigidity of the structure, are usually made of slabs, which always remain after the dismantling of the foundation formwork.
- In the end part of the structure, you can place steps mounted on screws or long self-tapping screws.
Such a design is not designed for a large load - that's why you should not allow more than 2 people to such makeshift scaffolding and load them with too heavy material (bags of cement and bricks).
With large construction loads, it is best to use special scaffolding constructed on the basis of metal pipes and assembled by the type of the constructor (although it will take you a lot of time to assemble them).
Another version of the scaffolding design involves the use of the same racks, but already made of a 50x100mm board, and the distance between the racks, depending on the size of the object, can be from 2 to 2.5 meters. Such forests are designed for a total width of at least 1 meter, otherwise it will be inconvenient to work on them. Vertical racks are connected to each other "cross to cross" using thinner boards (25-30mm). The fastening of the structure is carried out using nails measuring 100-120mm.
At the height you need, jumpers from the "fifty" are attached, and already on the latter the flooring from the same boards is laid and firmly nailed to them. On the outside of the scaffolding, it is necessary to install a board that plays the role of a fence. If necessary, a second tier is constructed, located above the first flooring and equipped with the same fencing board.
Particular attention should be paid to the arrangement of stops, with the help of which the entire structure is fixed (pressed) to the building being erected towards the wall. This is achieved due to the reliable fastening of the racks to the walls of the structure under construction with the help of additional boards or the installation of special inclined stops.
If all these conditions are met, you can safely carry out any construction and repair work on your site.
During construction work outside and inside the premises (if they have high ceilings), scaffolding is often needed - it is not necessary to carry out drawings of auxiliary structures with your own hands, but anyone can assemble them using a ready-made method.
Requirements for scaffolding for construction and repair
Scaffolding is widely used in construction and repair. Even the usual do-it-yourself wall plastering it is not easy to carry out without them, and the installation of a roof or wall siding becomes a very difficult task without auxiliary supporting structures. Of course, the mobility of stepladders or hastily put together goat-stools is higher, and their cost is noticeably lower.
But only solid-sized scaffolding will allow you not to be distracted by the constant movement along the facade or the wall being repaired of everything you need. Saving time and effort, concentrating energy on repairs - the main benefit from scaffolding, homemade or purchased. The productivity of construction labor when using scaffolding increases several times - so their cost can be entered in the column "payment for the speed and convenience of repair."
Any design of scaffolding must be reliable and durable - including taking into account the people, tools, construction and Supplies. If there is even the slightest doubt that scaffolding cannot be assembled with the proper margin of stability, it is better to purchase a finished, branded product in a specialized store. Moreover, the choice of such products is quite diverse.
Scaffolding classification
The term "forests" itself is associated with the historical experience of finishing facades with plaster, stucco and painting during the construction of palaces and other elite buildings. For plasterers and finishers, multi-meter "shelves" were erected from real logs and platforms. After the completion of the work, all this material was spent on firewood, leaving to posterity only its name and the principle of construction.
Modern options are based on a frame and are made taking into account reusable use. Structurally, scaffolding can be performed in the following options:
- Pin forests - from steel pipes, with welded curved fittings and socket locks. Heavy and clumsy, it takes a lot of time to assemble and move - but very strong. For example, stone or brickwork it is best to do it with them. On pin scaffolding can be loaded a large number of heavy building materials, they are very stable and durable;
- Frame scaffolding made of light aluminum and / or steel alloys - made of pipes and stiffeners with reliable fixation of the structure into a solid frame. They may have wheels for moving on flat ground. Great for plaster or balcony siding- when the weight of building materials is small, and the work is associated with rapid movement along (up and down) the object being repaired;
- Wedge scaffolding is a kind of symbiosis of frame and pin structures, combining the advantages of both. Withstand heavy loads and are mobile at the same time. Fastener nodes are made in the form of flanges with slots, which allows you to create polygonal and broken lines along complex facades.
- Clamp scaffolding - universal structures of small carrying capacity for the repair and restoration of curved facades;
- Suspended - the well-known "cradles", with the help of which facade glass is washed and tile joints are sealed. Between two stationary scaffolding, a structure without ground support can also be suspended.
Suspended, clamp and wedge options are only purchased, their independent "production" is not recommended. Pin or frame scaffolding, the drawings of which are given below, are assembled with their own hands with the appropriate carpentry and metalworking skills.
Scaffolding - do-it-yourself wood, step by step instructions
Wood is the easiest to process and at the same time inexpensive material- the creation of wooden scaffolding fits into several repair stages, which are quite doable on their own. We will describe in detail how to make them from wooden beams, boards and battens.
How to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood - step by step diagram
Step 1: Selecting and preparing wood
To work, you will need several types of wood. Bearing supports are made of timber 10x10 cm in size (a smaller section will not allow heavy construction work to be carried out from scaffolding). Horizontal floorings are knocked together from thick boards (from 50 mm), stiffeners - from boards with a thickness of 25 mm or more. Fencing rails with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. Wood for supports and platforms should be free of knots and cracks, it should be treated with special compounds to prevent rotting and mold.
Step 2: Frame planning
The end sides of the wooden scaffolding must be made at a converging angle - this will significantly increase the stability of the structure and will not interfere with the repair of walls.
In addition, it is advisable to choose load-bearing supports from a 10x10 cm beam as solid, and not composite - then the strength of the multi-storey structure will be higher. The minimum allowable width of homemade wood scaffolding is 50 cm, their length can be 3-4 meters. The height limit is considered to be 6 meters, otherwise the risk of overturning the scaffolding during operation is high. For work, you will need standard woodworking tools - saws and hacksaws, a planer, a drill and a screwdriver.
Step 3: Building the frame
Two beams with a height of not more than 6 meters are laid on a flat horizontal surface, the distance between them is equal to the planned length of the scaffolding. The other two fit right next to each other. The upper part of the bars should slightly converge upwards for the stability of the entire structure. For a distance between supports of 4 meters along the length of the scaffolding down below convergence of 40-50 cm is enough up. That is, if the center distance between the support beams at the bottom is exactly four meters, then from above it is set at 3.5-3.6 meters. The result is two symmetrical wooden trapeziums.
Sidewalls from a bar are screwed to the support beams with self-tapping screws. They will serve as supports for working decks, so they are mounted from the inside. In general, wooden scaffolding own production can have no more than three "mounting floors", so there will be only four sidewalls from a bar. Three correspond to the levels of the forests, and the lower one serves for strength, it is fixed 20-30 cm from the ground.
Step 4: Making a three-dimensional frame
To connect the side trapezoids into solid scaffolding, you will need an assistant (and preferably two). It is difficult to perform this operation alone, and the docking accuracy will certainly suffer. Side crossbars are prepared in advance, and they will be of different lengths. The fact is that sustainable forests should be pyramidal in both width and length. The required angle of convergence is small, otherwise between top scaffolding and the facade being repaired, an inconvenient gap will appear. Say, for a width of 1 meter, an upper clearance of 85-90 cm will be enough.
Having installed the wooden sidewalls vertically and slightly tilting them towards each other, we fasten the side crossbars with long self-tapping screws. The use of screws is preferable because after repair and construction work, the scaffolding can be disassembled (partially or completely) and folded in a barn or garage.
Step 5: Final and optional
It remains to nail boards for flooring and a fence above each platform to the transverse bars. On the sides of the scaffolding, additional crossbars can be filled, which will act as stairs. It is also useful to make a knot in the form of a retractable pin above each support for attaching scaffolding to earthen soil - it is removed on flat surfaces, and the whole structure stands on the cuts of the end beams.
Any construction of a house or facade work is not complete without the use of scaffolding. As a rule, scaffolding is made of wood or metal. Of course, wood scaffolding is easier to manufacture. For the durability of the structure and to enhance its strength, metal is chosen.
It all depends on the task and the required wear resistance of specific scaffolding. The larger the working area, the more attention should be paid to strength. For the construction of private houses or adjoining structures, forests are created 2.5 meters high and 1 m wide. It is better not to build a structure above 6 meters, because an increase in the height of the structure reduces its stability.
The standard design involves the use of the following components:
- Boards for flooring and lintels 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. Beam for racks and stops measuring 10x10 cm. Nails or self-tapping screws (for small structures).
Spacers are made between the legs to give strength to the structure. The racks are fastened with flooring and jumpers. To move between the levels of scaffolding (up and down), steps are made from beams mounted on racks, or a ladder is used.
Metal structures are assembled from steel or aluminum pipes. This requires the following materials:
- Pipes for spacers with a diameter of 15 mm. Profile pipe for racks with a diameter of 30 mm. Connecting adapters are made from a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. Necessary tools for connecting all components: welding machine etc.
Pipes 15 mm. cut into 2 meters, and their ends are flattened.
From 30 mm. pipes make segments of 0.75 m in size (the length of one jumper) and 1.5 m.
The structural components are fastened together by welding or bolts. Jumpers are fixed crosswise on both sides. When one section is ready, you can build the next one.
Safety during construction work should be paramount, so do not try to assemble and disassemble scaffolding more than two or three times. From reusable assemblies, they lose strength.
Before starting work, always check the strength of the assembly.
The need for scaffolding arose along with the need to build or finish buildings with a height of more than two floors.
The first such structures were made of wood, which is why they got the name of scaffolding. They are built around a building that needs to be renovated and are different types. Consider the most common types of scaffolding.
Wooden scaffolding
The tree has long been widely used in construction, and it can be used to build scaffolding for finishing and repair work taking place at a low height. Usually this type of scaffolding is used for private houses or low buildings. Since this type of scaffolding is the simplest and easiest to perform, we present the technology for their manufacture.
For the construction of wooden scaffolding, you will need boards 150x50 mm half a meter long, pieces of thin boards 25x100 mm, two long fifty-fifty boards for supports and long boards of the required length for horizontal flooring.
First, triangular supports for the scaffolds are knocked together from scraps of the fifties, and then they are sheathed with thinner boards. The dimensions of the support triangles should be chosen based on the following factors: the support should not move away from the wall under the weight of the builder and its own weight, and there should also be enough space for a standing worker on the platform. In this regard, usually the length of the scaffolds is chosen 400-500 mm, and the feet of the worker should not sag beyond the flooring.
The supports are attached to the supports at sharp angles.
In this case, the upper end of the support is cut off so as to insert it inside the support triangle, and the lower part is sharpened for fixing in the ground. After that, the scaffolding is brought to the desired position and the vertical part of the triangular supports is attached to the wall with nails, without hammering them to the very hats, because later, after the work is completed, they will need to be removed. Then they put a ladder and begin to nail the flooring boards to the supports, in this case the nails are driven all the way.
Before starting construction work, you should make sure that the structure is stable, and in general, wooden scaffolding should not be made higher than seven meters.
metal scaffolding
They are made from aluminum or steel pipes, and there are two options for such structures: modular and frame. Modular types include suspended, wedge, collar and modular (system) scaffolding. Among the frame scaffolding, pin, flag and tower tours are distinguished.
All metal scaffolding requires anchoring to the walls of the building, and without such an attachment, the height of the scaffolding should not exceed four meters, and then, provided that the base under the scaffolding is perfectly horizontal and compacted.
Consider the main types of metal scaffolding.
Flag (frame) scaffolding
Such structures can withstand loads up to 200 kg / sq.
meter. They consist of side frames, racks for horizontal and diagonal fastening of the sidewalls to each other and shoes for resting on the ground. The dimensions of such scaffolding may differ depending on the manufacturer, but the construction scheme is the same.
Such scaffolding is easy to assemble and inexpensive, so they are very common. The fasteners of the frame scaffold are inserted into the holes specially designed for this purpose and are fixed by turning. In the vertical plane, the parts are connected by introducing the frame into the groove below the element located.
tower tour
These scaffolds withstand a load of 200 kg/sq.
meter. Such structures are often used for the repair and decoration of individual sections of building facades. Since building scaffolding around the entire building is quite expensive, and it takes a lot of time to assemble and disassemble them back, they use a tour tower.
It is a design of their finished frames with a ladder, wheels are attached to its base. If frames over 4 meters high are used, then additional spacers are attached to the frame of the first tier, and if the tiers of the tower are displayed at 2/3 of the maximum height, then it is attached to the wall of the building with brackets or anchors. Such towers-tours can be from 4 to 21 meters high and differ in the number of tiers.
Pin scaffolding
Used with a maximum load of 200 kg/sq.
meter. The horizontal elements of their construction are fastened with pins, which are inserted into hollow tube-eyes on vertical racks. Each level of scaffolding is assembled in stages, and the lower ends of the rack supports are inserted into the shoes.
For greater rigidity, diagonal braces are used. They can be mounted up to 40 meters high and are most often used for masonry works. Such scaffolding is made of steel tubes with a large wall thickness, and therefore they are capable of experiencing heavy loads.
Wedge scaffolding
Such structures with a standard load of 200-300 kg / sq.
meter have a more complex design than the above options. Their elements are fixed with steel wedges hammered in. This increases the strength of scaffolding, because they are used under heavy loads.
The special shape of the wedge prevents wedging. 8-hole rack flange locks are also used. Such scaffolding is used at a height of up to 40 meters for high-rise construction and finishing works.
Clamp scaffolding
They have a standard load of 200-250 kg / sq. meter.
All elements are connected on clamps (swivel or deaf), into which crossbars and racks are inserted, followed by fixing with threaded bolts. The disadvantages include the complexity of assembly, but at the same time such scaffolding can be mounted to a height of up to 80 meters. Clamp scaffolding can also be used to work with complex architectural elements such as arches and domes.
Which type of scaffolding to choose depends primarily on the purpose of their use. So, for work at high heights, pin or clamp scaffolding is used, and for construction and finishing work at low height, frame scaffolding is used.
Evaluate how it's made:
A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at height and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.
Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.
Forests they call structures quite long and high. Scaffolding "goats" is usually called low portable tables, which can accommodate no more than two people.
If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or finish the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for work. For our part, we will talk about how to make scaffolding strong and stable with our own hands, saving a lot of money on renting them.
Scaffolding design options
Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their structures contain the same elements for their intended purpose:
- Vertical racks (perceive the workload and transfer it to the ground). Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame). Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid). Flooring (boards knocked together that serve as a working platform for builders) .Stubborn slopes (prevent scaffolding from tipping over).Rails (protect workers from falling).Stairs (used to ascend and descend from work platforms).
The material for the assembly of scaffolds and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. A wooden structure is cheaper than steel, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only good for firewood.
Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wooden scaffolding, but has no restrictions on the number of use cycles. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build up additional tiers in the course of work, increasing the working height.
If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one object, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.
Features of the manufacture of wooden and metal scaffolding with their own hands
Before starting the preparation of parts for assembly, a schematic drawing should be made and the main dimensions of the structure should be marked on it.
There is no need to fantasize here, since the optimal dimensions of scaffolding have already been determined by construction practice:
- the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters; the distance between the posts is from 2.0 to 2.5 meters; the width of the working floor is 1 meter.
Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the builder's hands during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from ground level. This will save you from having to put together low building scaffolds.
It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.
If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:
- For cutting racks and thrust braces - a beam with a section of 10x10 cm or boards at least 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. Spacers, ties and railings can be made of edged board"Thirty". For flooring and lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.
When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, it should be remembered that nails are more difficult to remove when disassembling scaffolding.
Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from the wood with a screwdriver. However, they work worse than nails for breaking, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, in order to make small forests it is possible to recommend the use of nails, and for extended and high structures - self-tapping screws.
Scaffolding from boards is assembled in this order:
- on a flat area parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding; racks are connected with horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid; and horizontal screeds; flooring from boards is placed on horizontal lintels and fixed; scaffolding is fixed on two side slopes-stops; railings are nailed to the racks, a ladder is attached and fixed for lifting.
If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be connected to each other with wide sections of boards, stuffing them into adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before driving. Scaffolding from a profile pipe is similar in design to wood.
The difference between them lies in the use of adapters. They are used to build up the "number of floors" of a metal structure. A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements: round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal ties). Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm for the manufacture of adapters and thrust bearings). For the manufacture of railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long. Steel plates 10x10 cm 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings; 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting diagonal screeds to each other and fastening them to frame racks. The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations: scaffold racks are rigidly fixed to the assembly board (OSB sheet) with clamps ( high accuracy when working with metal - a very important factor); horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks; adapters from pipe cuts are inserted into the upper ends of the racks by 5 cm and fixed by welding; after removing the racks with jumpers from the assembly board, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position again fixed to the shield with clamps; ends and middle thin-walled pipes, intended for diagonal stretch marks, flatten with a hammer and drill holes for the bolts in them; after tightening two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and mark the places for drilling holes; the couplers are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts; holes are drilled on the racks and railings for bolted connections; plates (thrust bearings) are welded to the pipe segments; the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes; flooring from the “magpie” board is laid on the side jumpers. Useful advice: to prevent longitudinal displacement of the flooring to its lower part at the point of contact with jumpers, you need to screw steel corners 30x30 mm. Diagonal screeds need to be mounted on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly. in its racks, you need to make holes for attaching the profile pipe of the thrust cut, protecting protecting the structure from falling. In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when building scaffolding in length). Video
During the construction or maintenance of a private house, you have to perform work at height. Not all work can be done with a ladder or ladder. In such cases it is necessary to use scaffolding.
Scaffolding can be made from various materials. The most common are metal and wooden scaffolding.
Metal scaffolding has great advantages. They are distinguished by their stability, safety and durability. But the cost of this design is quite considerable. And the difficulties in assembling and the large dimensions of the structure are not the most acceptable option.
An alternative to metal scaffolding are wooden ones, which are easy to assemble and cost several times less. Another advantage of wood scaffolding is that almost every one of the materials at hand can assemble them, while using only available tools. Wooden scaffolding can be moved independently to any distance and stored unassembled for a long time. Due to the many advantages, many people choose wooden scaffolding for construction and installation work.
Making wooden scaffolding is not difficult. It is enough to choose high-quality and durable wood of the right size. Since the construction of the scaffolding is temporary, it can be made from wood and boards, which are “not standard”.
The process of making scaffolding
1. The first step is to make a base. To do this, we take two beams and fix them together with the help of auxiliary boards. We fix the boards with self-tapping screws.2. We cut the upper part of the timber at an angle. The bevel on the beam is necessary for the further fastening of the remaining structural parts.
3. The finished part of the base looks like:
4. Next, we attach a board 1 m long to the cut point.
5. Consistently fasten three more parts of the manufactured bars to the upper bar. Due to the presence of bevels on the bars, the design acquires a stable shape.
6. In order for the scaffolding structure to be more reliable and durable, it is necessary to strengthen it with the help of auxiliary slats. We fix the slats in the upper and middle parts of the structure. We perform this work on both sides of the stand.
7. Additionally, we fix the stand at the base from several sides.
8. The finished part of the scaffolding looks like:
9. It is also possible to strengthen the design of the stand in the central part, while placing the mounting boards diagonally.
10. To perform work, a wooden flooring is laid out on stands, which will serve as a place of movement.
11. Scaffold stands can be made as many as necessary to perform safe work. Stands are easy to carry from place to place, while not disassembling them. In addition, a similar design can be used on various terrain and when performing work of any complexity.
12. The height of the wooden scaffolding can be adjusted by increasing the height of the wooden deck.
